Lippert Slide Room Repair
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- This slide room has been severely out of adjustment since the guy has owned it and eventually it quit going in and out.
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Thanks, guys. We're down in Australia with a Jay Flight 28RLS with this slide mechanism. I really appreciate you posting this. It'll help me zort out our problems. 👍
Awesome
Thanks for posting this video. I really appreciate that you left each trial and struggle in the final edit. It gives a better idea of how to think the problem out, and it makes me feel a hell of a lot better about some of the struggles i had adjusting stuff on my new to me camper. Keep it up guys.
I feel it is important to keep this channel real, because most repairs will include a struggle at some point.
So glad I found this video. It not only helps with diagnosing that skipping sound, but also shows how to easily re-time the other side of the slide room
Cool
Experience at work here. A lifetime of fixing rv’s pays off. Thanks Kenny
No, thank you Robert
Very well done! I learned a lot (and I'm real hard to teach). The slide out spray saved the day, but let's face it, all the adjustments and timing were critical and necessary!
It all worked together.
Great Video!@@hillbillyrv
I've never seen a slide room that didn't thump or squeal or not line up correctly or something. On our first RV, the slide room squealed so bad that the entire campground would stop and look. I had to spray lube the rail under the coroplast before it quieted down. Then I had to do the adjustment to line the room up like you did in this video. On our second RV, the same squealing issue but it was that way from the factory. I made the dealer take the coroplast down and lube it near the motor before I would sign the papers. On the RV we have now, there's no squeal but a soft thump thump thump when one slide room goes in and out and on the Schwintek slide room, one of the motors died after being used 4 times. It's amazing these slide rooms work at all. Great video! I wish there was a mobile RV Tech here in Western NY. They would make big bucks! Nobody does that kind of thing up here. Either take the RV 2 hours away to a dealer or do the work yourself!
Yeh I know Rob. Everyone of them have their own personality. Seems like the one people hate the most are the jerkers...jerk...jerk...jerk then maybe a squeak or a big POP !!!
All someone needs to do is get a job at a dealership for a few years, learn RVs, maybe get some formal training and then BOOM. Start a mobile business.
Hi Guys,
I got something jammed in my slide and it jumped a gear or two so the room was up about 1/2 inch and out about 1 1/2 inches. I am a long ways from home and I went "Holy S*&T, what do I do now?" There was nothing to be found on Montana's website or Lippert's. I found your video, and Viola! I just took the one bolt out of the joining rod so that I could manually move one slide out and it is perfect! Well done boys, you saved my butt!
Glad we could help Leonard
I have used a lot of CRC products and they seemed to work for me as well. Another product to try out is Zep , I have use zep
for many years and I'm telling you they all seemed to work Great for me as well. I used this thinking Zep 45 not to sure about the
name 45, but it is a wet chemical that dry's not wet and it seems to work amazing products. I do not work for Zep in anyway.
Darn Good video and you could tell that you have had a lot of experience working on these motorhome. God bless you all !
Very kind words Jeff, thanks
I'm amazed you were able to get that gear pack off without lifting the slide room. I thought for sure you'd need to jack it up. I may have to do the same thing soon. But if I don't have to jack it up, that's a plus. Good work!
It's a little tight, but you should be able to change it like I did.
Do we need 2/4 ton lift jack just to make it nicely leveled before changing ? I ordered my broken square shaft and one gear pack. Awesome video. you make it looks easy with tools .
This is a great video. I believe this is the problem with mine. I’ll leave another comment and let you know.
Keep us posted
I appreciate the video and the practical approach to solving the problem. Our kitchen slide has 3 arms, and I replaced all 3 gear packs. Made a great difference. I also found a room bar bracket the head bolts t was bent and and had broken welds, so I’ve ordered parts to repair that. Your video will really help me with that, and the adjustments that will follow.
Glad we could help GV
Everything u did is spot on flattening the tube on top is a absolute necessity rack will skip even if no teeth is missing the tube is made out of too thin of material needs to be reinforced one of the best slide-out video’s
Wow... Thanks Wyatt
Thank you! I had a my slide out get jammed up while opening and it busted teeth on the roller pack. This camper is brand new and I was really worried I had messed something up bad and it was going to cost me big. I’ve got a roller pack ordered and feeling much better about getting it fixed and synced up.
cool
Another great video. Wish I was closer then I would have you work on my back slides. When in they seal up tight and square. When out bottom inside is tight to wall and top inside is about a 1/2" away from wall.
To be honest Robert. When dealing with slide rooms, only 1/2 inch off is like perfect. Nothing is straight or square in those rooms or the holes they are in.
What other thing I done was make a U shape bracket 2inches wide to set over the end and only tack weld on the sides to the tubing and of course make sure that I didn't weld next to it... guide button
Wow. You have a welder and fabrication equipment on your mobile RV service truck....cool
Im a 25 yr RV Tech up in Canada That was a cool video Mr.... Yep Proper slide lube does wonders Couple brands out there ,,, Teflon , added + another brand we use Captain Fab..... + another one Cant think of the name Has a Cf14c lol Additive in it Just sayin
Thanks for the info.
GReat video. This will help me quite a bit..
Awesome Dennis. Glad we could help.
My slider gear box took a crap" Even snaped the manuel crank pin.....! Over priced crap now days...(: Good work brothers"
The best China has !!!!!!
Instead of a prybar, why not a large C clamp?
At least slide floor not rotted love the smell off rotted Camper in the morning
Rotten campers smell like money to me.....ummmmm
Is you slide all the way out when you putting it in time i have one that seem to be off a teeth or 2 one end closed snug up tighter than the other end.
You can adjust the room anywhere in it's stroke, but super fine adjusts are nearly impossible. Very few of these rooms are perfectly straight.
Thanks! Always learning. We could see the paint and rust where the adjustment brackets had changed location of the wall height of the slide. Might road vibrations have caused the slide to drop at those extended end adjustment brackets? Thinking if so I would paint white marks around those brackets if we were to own that system to know if the adjustments are shifting. Really learned a lot - Thanks!
I think I wasn't the first person there Steve, but judging by the faded witness marks on the room. It had been way out of adjustment since day one.
GREAT VIDEO....But did you really need to raise it up 2" after all for it to work? I did learn a bunch of good stuff though. I appreciate the videos.
It worked way better when we finished.
I’m having the same issue and can’t find anything physically wrong, gonna try the lube and see how it goes
Good luck
I believe Lippert has a Buletin such n such # on the outer tube Repair Somethin like a square ring goes around end of d tube So it dont bend / stretchAfter yah crush/ reshape it wid a Big C clamp then spot weld it so dont come off Renforcing outer tube end And Preloading the arms to the room by flange adjustments The room at the middle in point/ tippy zone is anissue too Distance from room glide bar To the thru frame welded arms is too much .. Lift Then gears dont engage fully in rack teeth But wud yah rather have a Schiwintek system ???????
This system has had problems with the tube stretching on the end for decades.
When you say timing. That mean’s equal amount of teeth showing on the arms at both ends of the slide? Or at least the same distance of the arms showing at both ends from the gear assembly?
Thanks
Yes.
I seen another tech use CRC Power Lube, so I bought some but have yet to use it. Is it about the same as what you used? Great video, thanks for taking the time to make them.
I bought this several years and have barley used it.
Next time use a C clamp to fix it
Ok
Must have been a covid era camper. 😂
Man they are all Covid era campers.
Should have got the steel rollers instead of the plastic ones , you'll be headed back to the same problem in the future..
I'll remember that in the future
I have a 1996 prism 2000 the new millennium 5th wheel. I don't know the type & what part I need, fix the gears on my slide-out rail.. I can find no videos on my slide out rail..thanks in Advance.
e-mail me pics. hillbillyrvwv@gmail.com
Lube for less pain.
I know, right. Never seen this work.
Hi guys! I’m having the jumping issue and my slide is badly misaligned. I have a through frame hydraulic slide system like the one in the video but I do not have the timing bar or gear visible. Just the teeth and the piston that come through the frame. Would it be on the other side of my frame under my skirting or do I have a different system? (2006 Forrest river Cardinal 31LE) can’t seem to find a manual for it online or any model specific diagrams. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Yes the timing bar can be on the inside of the frame. That will suck for you?
@@hillbillyrv shouldn’t be too terrible. A previous owner lined the bottom with corrugated metal and what looks to be spray foam. I was looking for clarification before ripping into it. Thank you for the input!
Hi, Nice Video .mine keeps stoping like its Jamed, where did you get the spray and those gear pack
The gear pack comes from Lippert. The spray I found on Amazon.
Thanks
How do you replace the channel with teeth on it? Hollow 2" square
You would have to remove the old one and replace it. I am not being smart, but it would take me a week to type that whole sequence out.
I have s slide that makes a noise when it is almost extended. I noticed the pipe that encloses the big screw that moves the slide out has a 10 inch scratch on the bottom and the pipe seems to be real close or touching the hole in the frame where the pipe comes out. It must be barley touching because I can not hear it when I put silicon on it, I would assume the rod is bowed or dropped. I though about grinding 1/16 of that 10 inch section. What would you suggest?
If the mechanism is touching the frame, yes I would make some clearance there.
My timing bar is twisted so I can't use my slide-out to work can I order a new bar
I went to pleasure land and they told me it is not available my 2003 Bounder is to old that they can not get parts for it
It's just thin walled square tubing that one will slip inside the other. You can get this at just about any place that sells industrial metal. It's easy to make new timing bar, but you have to fix what broke yours first or it will just happen again.
I have one side at the bottom front that is out an inch. How do I know which side to adjust? Bring the side that's out in, or the side that's in out? I think it hit the back of the driver's seat. If the front needs to come in, do I disconnect that side and adjust there?
Thanks for the great videos!
You can adjust either end. Makes no difference.
@@hillbillyrv I adjusted the front in and now the front of the sofa drops down as it moves out and hits the floor as it moves out and stops it from sliding out. What do you think is causing this? TIA
@@chrislacey4888 Maybe you went too far. Sometimes you just have to find a happy medium. We don't live in a prefect world and NO RV is perfect.
@@chrislacey4888 I would check your box height adjustment sounds like it’s too high in the back if the front is dipping too far and hitting the floor.
@@marcuscarmouche9023 thanks Marcus. It was the bottom out too far. I was able to get it back in alignment.
That timing gear has nicer teeth than you do, skeegoo goo goo goo goo. Is that a Roscoe P. Coletrain gear? Goo goo goo goo. You gots to replace the dag gum m-fing rack man. Ya gotta bend that ding dang doohicker down Dag nabit.
Hmmmm
@@hillbillyrv You do good work brother.