May also try with at least 1 inch thick 1ft long strong metal bar, instead of the wood piece. May also grind a small channel in the middle of the bar. I may do a video on this. You can send a comment to Hyundai about the reinforced pinch weld being too short for placing a stand and a floor jack side by side to lift the car on jack stands. Here's their site www.hyundai.com/worldwide/en/company/contact-us Don't forget to click "I agree" at the top left corner of the page. When entering the email address, click the "E-mail verification" button to receive a code by email, we then enter the code and get a pop-up message "Verification has been completed". Complete the rest of the form then click "Submit" at the bottom of the form. Would also add, it is critical car be on perfectly level surface, many spots on the streets/mall parking lots are never level. Watch for small stones preventing the floor jack wheels to move a little as the car rises - this can cause the piece of wood to flip off the jack cup and cause damage to the car. Never work or go underneath the car supported by a floor jack this way.
@@Peppermint1 it's done on purpose. so you have to take it in for simple DIY fixes like replacing brake pads. which equals more revenue for them. that's the real reason.
This video was very helpful. I made a couple of useful modifications. I drilled a 1/4" deep recess with a forstner bit on the bottom so the 2x4 always stays centered on the jack cup. I also nailed two 3/8 inch stop blocks to the top along the center line. The stop blocks are positioned to the inside. Before the 2x4 is touches the pinch weld, I can align the jack plus 2x4 assembly to the pinch weld by pulling the stop blocks against the side of the weld. These modifications work well to make the positioning easily repeatable.
I just want to add, always jack up your vehicle on a clean and debris free floor. The jack arm lifts in an arc and the jack needs to be able to roll under the vehicle. If it were to jam on rocks or debris then the arc of the lifting arm would pull against the vehicle. If the vehicle cannot move since the other tires are planted on the ground then you run the risk of the jack pad shifting out from under the 1.75" piece of wood on the razor thin pinch weld. The results of which would not be desirable.
Very good point about small rocks preventing the jack to slightly roll while vehicle is being lifted. Would also add, it is critical car be on perfectly level surface, many spots on the streets/mall parking lots are never level
Thanks for the detailed video. I've been wondering about how to lift my 2015 Sonata on 4 jack stands. After watching your video, my main concern is the wood splitting. It's impossible to be sure that the wood will not split, so I think I'll laminate 2 or even 3 pieces of 3/4" plywood and use that instead of 2x4 because the plywood is impossible to split.
Can't answer about the type of wood.. I had a few 2x4 pieces in my garage, some would split very easily, other would not - still the jack cup will leave a mark on the wood. My take on plywood is it's not strong enough to spread the weight of the car. A longer piece would flex too much - even several layers, risk of concentrating the weight on the center small area. Anyhow, keep an eye on it as you are lifting it, maybe don't lift it too high at first, see how it behaves. Perhaps a better alternative would be a fairly thick bar of metal - may even grind a small channel in the middle of it
Yeah, you're right. Plywood is not as strong as solid lumber in this situation. But I think I have the answer: screw a 3/4" plywood strip on top of the 2x4. That way, the whole thing will be very stiff and will never split. I can also cut a recessed circle in the bottom of the 2x4 to fit the jack saddle so it's always properly aligned. While I'm at it, I can cut a groove into the middle of the plywood to keep it aligned with the metal strip under the car. The device should be very stable if it's aligned on top and bottom.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2016 Sedona and trying to figure out how to jack up the car to put it on jack stands. The manual only gives the 4 points. Are there no central structural points where we can lift the whole front or the whole back of the car?
The part you jacked on is meant to crush. It’s a crush plate for lack of words. It is designed like that flr when you bottom out so it’s not hitting the frame
You don’t need the wood if you place the jack under the pinch welds. You need the wood when maybe lifting the car from the front center which is hard to do since the cars are not balanced. FWD cars generally don’t have engines sitting in the dead center like RWD cars do
May also try with at least 1 inch thick 1ft long strong metal bar, instead of the wood piece. May also grind a small channel in the middle of the bar. I may do a video on this.
You can send a comment to Hyundai about the reinforced pinch weld being too short for placing a stand and a floor jack side by side to lift the car on jack stands. Here's their site www.hyundai.com/worldwide/en/company/contact-us Don't forget to click "I agree" at the top left corner of the page. When entering the email address, click the "E-mail verification" button to receive a code by email, we then enter the code and get a pop-up message "Verification has been completed". Complete the rest of the form then click "Submit" at the bottom of the form.
Would also add, it is critical car be on perfectly level surface, many spots on the streets/mall parking lots are never level. Watch for small stones preventing the floor jack wheels to move a little as the car rises - this can cause the piece of wood to flip off the jack cup and cause damage to the car. Never work or go underneath the car supported by a floor jack this way.
Great video, I applaud your effort. I've had several Hyundais and it is terrible the way they have not provided more jack points
True. And same goes for 2022+ models. They just don't get it
@@Peppermint1 it's done on purpose. so you have to take it in for simple DIY fixes like replacing brake pads. which equals more revenue for them. that's the real reason.
@@azureNETCode Makes sense
This video was very helpful. I made a couple of useful modifications. I drilled a 1/4" deep recess with a forstner bit on the bottom so the 2x4 always stays centered on the jack cup. I also nailed two 3/8 inch stop blocks to the top along the center line. The stop blocks are positioned to the inside. Before the 2x4 is touches the pinch weld, I can align the jack plus 2x4 assembly to the pinch weld by pulling the stop blocks against the side of the weld. These modifications work well to make the positioning easily repeatable.
This is interesting. Could you share a picture of your design please?
Thank you! I have an Optima and a Sportage and have been struggling since day 1 to get these up on two jack stands. This worked perfectly! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Using a 2x4 is a great idea! Glad I found this video.
Attention to Detail. Great Teacher
I just want to add, always jack up your vehicle on a clean and debris free floor. The jack arm lifts in an arc and the jack needs to be able to roll under the vehicle. If it were to jam on rocks or debris then the arc of the lifting arm would pull against the vehicle. If the vehicle cannot move since the other tires are planted on the ground then you run the risk of the jack pad shifting out from under the 1.75" piece of wood on the razor thin pinch weld. The results of which would not be desirable.
Very good point about small rocks preventing the jack to slightly roll while vehicle is being lifted. Would also add, it is critical car be on perfectly level surface, many spots on the streets/mall parking lots are never level
Thanks for the detailed video. I've been wondering about how to lift my 2015 Sonata on 4 jack stands. After watching your video, my main concern is the wood splitting. It's impossible to be sure that the wood will not split, so I think I'll laminate 2 or even 3 pieces of 3/4" plywood and use that instead of 2x4 because the plywood is impossible to split.
Can't answer about the type of wood.. I had a few 2x4 pieces in my garage, some would split very easily, other would not - still the jack cup will leave a mark on the wood. My take on plywood is it's not strong enough to spread the weight of the car. A longer piece would flex too much - even several layers, risk of concentrating the weight on the center small area. Anyhow, keep an eye on it as you are lifting it, maybe don't lift it too high at first, see how it behaves. Perhaps a better alternative would be a fairly thick bar of metal - may even grind a small channel in the middle of it
Yeah, you're right. Plywood is not as strong as solid lumber in this situation. But I think I have the answer: screw a 3/4" plywood strip on top of the 2x4. That way, the whole thing will be very stiff and will never split. I can also cut a recessed circle in the bottom of the 2x4 to fit the jack saddle so it's always properly aligned. While I'm at it, I can cut a groove into the middle of the plywood to keep it aligned with the metal strip under the car. The device should be very stable if it's aligned on top and bottom.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2016 Sedona and trying to figure out how to jack up the car to put it on jack stands. The manual only gives the 4 points. Are there no central structural points where we can lift the whole front or the whole back of the car?
None that I know on Hyundai and Kia cars.
@Peppermint1 That's too bad. Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the information
👍👍
Nice job buddy
THANK YOU!!!!
The part you jacked on is meant to crush. It’s a crush plate for lack of words. It is designed like that flr when you bottom out so it’s not hitting the frame
Thanks 👍
👍
You don’t need the wood if you place the jack under the pinch welds. You need the wood when maybe lifting the car from the front center which is hard to do since the cars are not balanced. FWD cars generally don’t have engines sitting in the dead center like RWD cars do
The point is to be able to put the Jack stand on the pinch weld