Not a question, but I think it could be a good idea if you made a video where you do all your stretches or exercises in a row in real time. That way we can refer back to those videos and do the exercises along with you. Merci pour la motivation!
How do you motivate yourself to go out of your comfort zone? For example at Totem Gland I usually flash all the blue grades, but the oranges (next level) I try a bit then think "meh it's too hard" and go back to fun boulders instead. Sometimes a boulder comes which is orange/red (blue +1/+2) but is so cool that I obsess a bit and finally send after some sessions, but I have trouble finding this motivation to "suffer" in normal sessions.
Sofya Yokoyama Stretching Routine Active Stretching Hold each position for 5-10 seconds unless otherwise stated. Rest for around one minute in between efforts and do each exercise 3 times. 1) Long Sitting Position with Single Straight Leg Raises (2:38) Sit on the ground with legs out in front and back straight. Lift one leg up at a time and hold. Try and not use anything to stabilise yourself (but you can use your hands on the ground if you have to). Repeat with other leg. Harder variation is to tuck one leg behind (knee point to the side and heel in your butt) and do the same. 2) 90/90 Stretch with Bent Single Leg Raise (4:27) Sit on the ground in the 90/90 position. Try and lift the knee and foot of your front leg from the ground, keeping your shin parallel to the ground. Try and not using anything to stabilise yourself (but you can use your hands on the ground if you have to). Repeat with the back leg. After you have completed 3 sets, switch the front leg and repeat the process. Harder Variation is to just lift the foot from the ground and keep the knee down. 3) Long Sitting Position with Single Straight Leg Raise Transitioning to Raised Bent Leg at Side (5:18) Sit on the ground with legs out in front and back straight. Lift one leg up. Slowly move the leg outwards, gradually transition so that the knee is bent and pointing to the side (like the back leg in the 90 position). Slowly transition back. Repeat with other leg. Note that it is fine to roll over onto one buttock when moving the leg around. Passive Stretching Hold all stretches for 1-2 minutes unless otherwise stated. 1) Seated Forward Fold (6:48) Sit with straight legs out in front. Reach to touch your toes. Aim to touch your stomach to your quads. 2) Butterfly Stretch (7:00) Sit with the bottoms of your feet touching. Pull your feet in. Push your knees out with your elbows. Try and touch your stomach to your legs. 3) Reclining Twist (7:17) Lying down, put the foot of one leg outside the knee of the other leg. Twist the knee down to the side the foot is on. Apply extra pressure with your hand. Twist your upper body in the opposite direction whilst trying to keep your shoulders on the ground. Turn your head away from the knee direction. Repeat on both sides 4) Seated Straddle (8:09) Sitting down, spread your legs as far apart as possible then lean forward. Aim to touch your stomach to the ground. After holding for 1 minute, switch to leaning over one leg. After 1 minute here, lean over the other leg for a final minute. 5) Wide Standing Straddle (8:42) Standing, spread your legs as wide as possible whilst keeping your feet flat on the ground. Use the ground (or some yoga blocks or a table) for support. If it feels tight, stay here for about 2 minutes. You can add a bit of moment to distract from the pain (but not too much pain) - move from being central to being more toward different legs, you can gently bounce as well. 6) Kneeling Lunge Stretch (10:15) -> Kneeling Quad Stretch (10:22) -> Kneeling Hamstring Stretch (10:35) -> Half Side Splits (10:46) This a run of 4 stretches to be performed on the same side before looping back and doing them on the other side. Hold each for 1-1.5 minutes. For the first stretch, get into a kneeling lunge position. Your front leg should be at 90 degrees and your back leg should be stretched out behind. To activate the stretch focus on rotating your hips forward and up and keep your back neutral and upright. For the second stretch, stay in the same position as the first stretch but bring the back leg up toward your buttocks with your hand. Keep those hips rotated forward and up and your back neutral and upright. For the third stretch, release the back leg and move your hips backward so that your back leg is at 90 degrees and your front leg is straight with heel on the ground and toes point to the sky. Try and touch your stomach to your quads and don't forget to keep your toes pointing up. For the fourth stretch, starting from one leg on knee and one leg straight, spread them as far apart as possible, keeping the bent leg at 90 degrees. Keep your back straight and lean forwards onto your elbows. Try and move your hips back so your buttocks touch your heel. 7) Half Pigeon Pose (11:39) From a press-up position, bring one of your legs to the opposite wrist and lay your shin down so it bridges between your hands. Straighten your back leg and walk your hands forward to move your hips down. Make sure your hips are square. Try and touch your stomach to your front leg. Repeat on both sides.
free tip: when you don't know the name of something just ask people to put this information in the coments, and then the algorithm is gona love your videos= more viws=more notoriety(money,sponsors or whatever)
This would work quite well as a ‘follow along’ type video. Loads of those online and they get a lot of views. I re-run several of them for my stretching routines all the time.
Something that really helped me with stretching was to really focus on taking deep breaths (especially on static stretches). For some reason I get a deeper stretch when doing this, so a quick little tip
Questionnnn! Can you tell us a bit about yourself? You seem to have a beautiful mix of cultures and life-experiences 😊 And since I'm already here, maybe also the typical "tips" for starting climbers which might not be very obvious but helpful in the long run (like stretching, etc...). Thank you! Big abrazo from spain! 🤟💚
Thanks for the insights! And as some others have already mentioned: it'd be great if this was in some sort of follow-along style; i.e. if you did all stretches in real-time while you give all the explanations as a voice over (and then switch to the next stretch as soon as the VO finishes). That way it would be easier to actually follow without having to repeatedly skip through the video. And it would probably generate a few views as well because people come back regularly until they got the routine memorized. I know I would!
Would love to hear more about growing up and life generally in Switzerland! Also be awesome to hear about your languages... your English is so native it's hella trippy when you just casually slip into native sounding French like that's normal/easy and Yokoyama? don't go sayin you speak Japanese too cuz where's that been all this time 🤯🤣
Stretching can look so easy and relaxing to the casual observer but for the participant it can be soooo painful but I love it. Your mention of pain and how far to push it was spot on but I cant help but think of my early martial arts days where we stretched with a partner. Their role was to take you to your extreme limit then push you a bit past it. So bloody painful and definitely frowned upon today but it did work, might not be able to walk properly for a couple of days but we got really flexible fast! Now days stretching is part of my cool down and relaxation/meditation.
This is great. I had been running through generic stretches from past sports (soccer, basketball, etc.) and was looking for some more climbing specific movements. Will see how my robot-like mobility handles running through these xD
Thanks for the stretching tips, I am definitely going to include some of these! I have a few questions for your Q&A: 1) Have you been to Magic Woods? If so, which boulder did you like the most and why? 2) What is the climbing scene like in Switzerland atm? Are there many young climbers? Do you train together sometimes? 3) How good is your German? I'm assuming you must have learnt at least some if you went to school in Switzerland. 4) Have you been to Le Hangar in Fribourg? That's the gym I mainly go to :)
Any advice for someone starting climbing late that wants to get good fast (if that’s even possible)? I started climbing a few months ago with some of my guy friends and go 4-5 days a week now. Even though I’m getting more time in the gym, they’re able to do the harder problems easier and progress quicker. Also any advice or information on guys vs girls when it comes to training and climbing?
So helpful! Q&A question: How do you set climbing goals for the day? Also: How often do you change/ revise your stretching, hangboard, and general fitness routines?
Gonna try all that stuff tomorrow ! Thanks for sharing 😄 By the way here are the names that I know for the passive exercises : 1. (Sitted) Forward fall 2. Butterfly stretch 3. Spinal twist (well there are different types so maybe this one is « lying down spinal twist » or something like that😂) 4. Straddle (with side reach) 5. Kind of wide leg forward fall ? Not sure about that one -- 1. Low lunge 2. Low lunge with quad stretch (?) 3. Half-split 4. ? Something like single leg frog position -- And last is a pidgeon pose as you said 😉 I hope this can help ! Bisous
You should make a video about climbing shoes! Maybe some shoes you've tried and what might be better for a beginner versus advanced climber. Also some things to look out for when purchasing some shoes :)
how does your schedule look like? You told us in a previous video how much you do in a week but I wonder how you spread it out. I have a hard time finding a balance between climbing 3 times a week, strength training and fingerboarding.
Big fan here sofya enjoy your superb energy and the videos. i wish you did some follow along exercise videos for streching, strenght or targeted muscles groups. or anything you are thinking for future actually. wishing all the best in comps 🤞👊🥇⚡
Thank you for this video! I've been wanting to incorporate new stretches into my climbing routine, and found a couple new ones I really like. Also found that we do a lot of the same stretching!
Complete tangent: what are you studying? you mentioned exams another time... How much time can you give to the studying given all the climbing/training/climbing?
Hey thanks for making videos. As a stiff person I think your mobility is insane! Have you ever worked through a serious injury, whether it was due to climbing or something else? How did you stay optimistic mentally?
I would love this as a follow along! I tend to struggle to time myself for the stretches, so if I can just copy how long you hold it for it's much easier then I can also check I'm doing it right. Plus I would do it everyday and you would get lots of views
For the QnA video: how do you know what is it that's blocking you and you must improve in order to break through? does it have to be a coach/someone other than yourself or can you figure it out yourself?
Hi Sofya, question: Have you every injured yourself while bouldering, which resulted in psychological hurdles when it comes to moves similar like when you hurt yourself? I broke my leg when doing a dyno-jump, since then i just cant do it anymore and shiver when i see people uncontrollably...:(
What about climbing brings you back day after day, is there one memory you could point to where you knew this would be a big part of your life? I'm super happy you started a channel, keep up the great work!
How often do you have sport climbing session outside, if you do? Do you enjoy enjoy it more or less than indoor bouldering? And what grade do you usually climb in sport climbing, like the grade you know you have a lot of chances to onsight it?
How did you meet and get involved with the EKB crew? Also how would you structure a full week of training? You mentioned how you would do hang boarding but what does the rest of training look like?
Optimal stretch time according to most recent meta analysis is 30 seconds to 1 minute (30 seconds 3x a day being most optimal) With the focus on doing 10 minutes a week (more important than the stretch duration). If you stretch 2-3 minutes everyday you are overdoing it and do not get any additional benefits from your stretches (also 6 days per week is optimal)
I read about that too and used to do 3x 30s but my lower body gets so stiff after a day of training (and even rest) and I didn’t feel like 30s was long enough. So I’m trying out holding longer in a “comfortable” position and it seems to work better for me.
@@sofya_yokoyama I'm glad you found a routine that works for you. I also stretch slightly longer than 30 seconds. I just figured some people might use this to design their own stretching regimen and that maybe you weren't aware that you can stretch for shorter duration with seemingly same results. Thanks for responding sorry if I sounded critical. :)
Question: 2 parts: what’s your daily diet like? Do you have recovery days? Ie: How many days do you need to recover to full strength after a hard training session.
hay sofya, i really enjoy your videos, thank you! what can i do to recover faster between climbing sessions? whenever i go day after day, i just feel that my hands are dead
What i think these stretches are called: Active Stretches called Leg lifts (pidgeon/bendt knee-leg lift), The name of those passive Stretches are: Forward folds, Butterfly, Spine rotation, Straddle, Side Split training, Launch position.
Thought I’d follow along and I can’t do the first one 😂 for some reason I can’t sit in an L shape, more of a \_ shape. I’ll try it anyway though and see if it improves!
Thank you for this but I really wish people would stop saying "I'm really bad at this" because many people are "worse" and it can be quite discouraging lol XD
"If you are on your typical 2 hard weeks of training and feeling like your fingers are painful/sore/tweaky/etc, do you push forward and hope you will make it till your deload week or do you just train less for a while?" cheers
I think you should always listen to your body. Never push forward and hope to make it to a deload unless you are specifically training for a comp and overreaching. If your in pain and not recovering properly you need more rest or you will get injured. I’m a certified strength and conditioning specialist just to add some credibility to my opinion.
Nooo don’t push through ahaha I’ve made that mistake many many times which resulted in my latest finger injuries (which have been around for over a year now) and it’s alwaaaaays better to take a couple of days off then pushing through and having to force rest for a couple of weeks or even months because your fingers hurt. I understand how sometimes you have to push yourself, like if you feel physically tired and you just want to rest but you’re close to your rest week, then I push through it and rest more during rest week. But if you feel like something could pop, twist, if you feel some strain, and could result to an injury, then take a couple days off (I give myself 2 days). But yeah, it really depends on how your body works, how much it can take etc but yeah always listen to your body.
I’m not really in a position to give advice (being the most inflexible climber in the world!) but my friend who can do box splits said he alternated between active and passive stretching with an object in front of him to put his hands on
It’s also a way to enhance your flexibility / mobility and helps you apply it into climbing. For example, it’s great if you can do the splits but, if you are on the wall, and you don’t have that “active strength” to stretch your leg out all the way into the splits to grab a foothold which is far away, then it’s not as useful. Hope this makes it clearer !
Qa; hi! You live in swiss, which has a lot of super cool bouldering area, do you boulder a lot outside? you have project too keep you motivated or you climb mostly I'm the gym end don't have "rock" goals?
How would you describe your relationship with crack climbing? As it has gained some popularity on UA-cam, do you think it becomes a strictly necessary skill for all sport climbers in near future, or will the trend settle down with time, leaving cracks a rare occurrence in competitions?
What do you do to prepare physically and mentally in iso before a comp? I have my first regional competition in a little over a week and I have no clue what do in iso and we can't have a coach in there with us
I’m going to respond to your question already because I may not have done the Q&A by time you have your comp. If I start off with the mental side: I already prepare myself a few days before the comp by talking to my sports psychologist and write down the objectives I would like to achieve. Focus on things that will allow you to optimize your climbing and less on the result you would like to have. For example, I tend to focus too much on what the other climbers manage to do (like if they come back before the 5 min have ended, you can guess they made the boulder). So my objective is to not focus on them, it doesn’t help in anyway besides stress me out more and I want to focus on myself, my climbing, I tell myself that the comp is about me and the boulders and how I want to do as many as possible and most importantly have fun. And so in iso, I read the objectives I have written down, try to re arrange my thoughts to not think negatively and focus on breathing to help with stress. And then for warm up in iso, I start off with skipping to get my heart beating a bit faster and warm my body up in general. Then i do a usual full body warmup with elastics bands etc, then do some stretching and also do some exercises which activate my core. Then time to warm up on the wall. I start off by doing easy stuff to get my fingers ready and bit by bit invent harder boulders to get my body ready for hard moves in qualis. It’s always hard to really know what to do but keep in mind that if you haven’t done it in warmup, whatever awaits you on the mats, you probably won’t be ready enough to give it all then and there. So try to do toe hooks, heel hooks, small holds, big holds, coordination moves, big jumps, some technical moves (slabs if you can), physical moves, lock offs, dynamic movements,… of course it also depends what kind of wall you have to warm up on but that’s about it ! Hope this helps !
i started climbing 2 months ago (just did my first 6b+ toprope) and want to get stronger hands. would you suggest to just keep climbing or could i already start using a hangboard?
My video before this one gives you info about hangboarding and some exercises you can do if you started climbing recently ! But I personally don’t find anything wrong with hangboarding. You just need to be very very careful and start off very easy. Not too much strain on fingers, no added weight, etc.
its funny how you keep saying "I am bad at this exercise", and then I just sit down on the ground and struggle to even get in the right position, way before any stretching is actually happening
And I’m going to do a Q&A video, so if you have any questions, don’t hesitate in leaving in the comments !
Not a question, but I think it could be a good idea if you made a video where you do all your stretches or exercises in a row in real time. That way we can refer back to those videos and do the exercises along with you. Merci pour la motivation!
Do you go to or went to college, if so what was your major?
How do you motivate yourself to go out of your comfort zone? For example at Totem Gland I usually flash all the blue grades, but the oranges (next level) I try a bit then think "meh it's too hard" and go back to fun boulders instead. Sometimes a boulder comes which is orange/red (blue +1/+2) but is so cool that I obsess a bit and finally send after some sessions, but I have trouble finding this motivation to "suffer" in normal sessions.
Started sceduled stretching 2 months back and gonna incorporate a few of your moves.
Thx for sharing!
What languages do you speak? And how come your English is that good? What's the story?
Sofya Yokoyama Stretching Routine
Active Stretching
Hold each position for 5-10 seconds unless otherwise stated. Rest for around one minute in between efforts and do each exercise 3 times.
1) Long Sitting Position with Single Straight Leg Raises (2:38)
Sit on the ground with legs out in front and back straight. Lift one leg up at a time and hold. Try and not use anything to stabilise yourself (but you can use your hands on the ground if you have to). Repeat with other leg.
Harder variation is to tuck one leg behind (knee point to the side and heel in your butt) and do the same.
2) 90/90 Stretch with Bent Single Leg Raise (4:27)
Sit on the ground in the 90/90 position. Try and lift the knee and foot of your front leg from the ground, keeping your shin parallel to the ground. Try and not using anything to stabilise yourself (but you can use your hands on the ground if you have to). Repeat with the back leg. After you have completed 3 sets, switch the front leg and repeat the process.
Harder Variation is to just lift the foot from the ground and keep the knee down.
3) Long Sitting Position with Single Straight Leg Raise Transitioning to Raised Bent Leg at Side (5:18)
Sit on the ground with legs out in front and back straight. Lift one leg up. Slowly move the leg outwards, gradually transition so that the knee is bent and pointing to the side (like the back leg in the 90 position). Slowly transition back. Repeat with other leg. Note that it is fine to roll over onto one buttock when moving the leg around.
Passive Stretching
Hold all stretches for 1-2 minutes unless otherwise stated.
1) Seated Forward Fold (6:48)
Sit with straight legs out in front. Reach to touch your toes. Aim to touch your stomach to your quads.
2) Butterfly Stretch (7:00)
Sit with the bottoms of your feet touching. Pull your feet in. Push your knees out with your elbows. Try and touch your stomach to your legs.
3) Reclining Twist (7:17)
Lying down, put the foot of one leg outside the knee of the other leg. Twist the knee down to the side the foot is on. Apply extra pressure with your hand. Twist your upper body in the opposite direction whilst trying to keep your shoulders on the ground. Turn your head away from the knee direction. Repeat on both sides
4) Seated Straddle (8:09)
Sitting down, spread your legs as far apart as possible then lean forward. Aim to touch your stomach to the ground. After holding for 1 minute, switch to leaning over one leg. After 1 minute here, lean over the other leg for a final minute.
5) Wide Standing Straddle (8:42)
Standing, spread your legs as wide as possible whilst keeping your feet flat on the ground. Use the ground (or some yoga blocks or a table) for support. If it feels tight, stay here for about 2 minutes. You can add a bit of moment to distract from the pain (but not too much pain) - move from being central to being more toward different legs, you can gently bounce as well.
6) Kneeling Lunge Stretch (10:15) -> Kneeling Quad Stretch (10:22) -> Kneeling Hamstring Stretch (10:35) -> Half Side Splits (10:46)
This a run of 4 stretches to be performed on the same side before looping back and doing them on the other side. Hold each for 1-1.5 minutes.
For the first stretch, get into a kneeling lunge position. Your front leg should be at 90 degrees and your back leg should be stretched out behind. To activate the stretch focus on rotating your hips forward and up and keep your back neutral and upright.
For the second stretch, stay in the same position as the first stretch but bring the back leg up toward your buttocks with your hand. Keep those hips rotated forward and up and your back neutral and upright.
For the third stretch, release the back leg and move your hips backward so that your back leg is at 90 degrees and your front leg is straight with heel on the ground and toes point to the sky. Try and touch your stomach to your quads and don't forget to keep your toes pointing up.
For the fourth stretch, starting from one leg on knee and one leg straight, spread them as far apart as possible, keeping the bent leg at 90 degrees. Keep your back straight and lean forwards onto your elbows. Try and move your hips back so your buttocks touch your heel.
7) Half Pigeon Pose (11:39)
From a press-up position, bring one of your legs to the opposite wrist and lay your shin down so it bridges between your hands. Straighten your back leg and walk your hands forward to move your hips down. Make sure your hips are square. Try and touch your stomach to your front leg. Repeat on both sides.
free tip: when you don't know the name of something just ask people to put this information in the coments, and then the algorithm is gona love your videos= more viws=more notoriety(money,sponsors or whatever)
Ahh good thinking ahah thanks for the info
This would work quite well as a ‘follow along’ type video. Loads of those online and they get a lot of views. I re-run several of them for my stretching routines all the time.
Seconded! Tag it as a "Climbers flexibility/stretching follow along" and the views will come rolling in
I’ve got a lot of these requests soooo this video will come sometime soonish ahaha
@@sofya_yokoyama great!
Tried this; my legs popped off and rolled into opposite corners of the kitchen. Not sure what to do now.
Something that really helped me with stretching was to really focus on taking deep breaths (especially on static stretches). For some reason I get a deeper stretch when doing this, so a quick little tip
Questionnnn! Can you tell us a bit about yourself? You seem to have a beautiful mix of cultures and life-experiences 😊 And since I'm already here, maybe also the typical "tips" for starting climbers which might not be very obvious but helpful in the long run (like stretching, etc...). Thank you! Big abrazo from spain! 🤟💚
Thanks for the insights!
And as some others have already mentioned: it'd be great if this was in some sort of follow-along style; i.e. if you did all stretches in real-time while you give all the explanations as a voice over (and then switch to the next stretch as soon as the VO finishes). That way it would be easier to actually follow without having to repeatedly skip through the video. And it would probably generate a few views as well because people come back regularly until they got the routine memorized. I know I would!
This looks almost exactly like what stretches I've been doing, but I typically add a piriformis stretch as well :)
Would love to hear more about growing up and life generally in Switzerland! Also be awesome to hear about your languages... your English is so native it's hella trippy when you just casually slip into native sounding French like that's normal/easy and Yokoyama? don't go sayin you speak Japanese too cuz where's that been all this time 🤯🤣
Stretching can look so easy and relaxing to the casual observer but for the participant it can be soooo painful but I love it. Your mention of pain and how far to push it was spot on but I cant help but think of my early martial arts days where we stretched with a partner. Their role was to take you to your extreme limit then push you a bit past it. So bloody painful and definitely frowned upon today but it did work, might not be able to walk properly for a couple of days but we got really flexible fast! Now days stretching is part of my cool down and relaxation/meditation.
Yeaaah I read about that, I could never 😂
Leg lifts that dancers and ballerinas do are excellent for climbing! I recommend trying them
Thanks, I’ll go have a look !
This is great. I had been running through generic stretches from past sports (soccer, basketball, etc.) and was looking for some more climbing specific movements.
Will see how my robot-like mobility handles running through these xD
Very similar to my routine. Well done. 💪
Thanks for the stretching tips, I am definitely going to include some of these!
I have a few questions for your Q&A:
1) Have you been to Magic Woods? If so, which boulder did you like the most and why?
2) What is the climbing scene like in Switzerland atm? Are there many young climbers? Do you train together sometimes?
3) How good is your German? I'm assuming you must have learnt at least some if you went to school in Switzerland.
4) Have you been to Le Hangar in Fribourg? That's the gym I mainly go to :)
Any advice for someone starting climbing late that wants to get good fast (if that’s even possible)? I started climbing a few months ago with some of my guy friends and go 4-5 days a week now. Even though I’m getting more time in the gym, they’re able to do the harder problems easier and progress quicker. Also any advice or information on guys vs girls when it comes to training and climbing?
So helpful!
Q&A question: How do you set climbing goals for the day?
Also: How often do you change/ revise your stretching, hangboard, and general fitness routines?
Oh yeah, i always wanted to stretch my rib cage :D , very nice video sofya
I immediately get cramps when I try to do the first couple exercises! Looks Lilien not the only one lol
Gonna try all that stuff tomorrow ! Thanks for sharing 😄
By the way here are the names that I know for the passive exercises :
1. (Sitted) Forward fall
2. Butterfly stretch
3. Spinal twist (well there are different types so maybe this one is « lying down spinal twist » or something like that😂)
4. Straddle (with side reach)
5. Kind of wide leg forward fall ? Not sure about that one
--
1. Low lunge
2. Low lunge with quad stretch (?)
3. Half-split
4. ? Something like single leg frog position
--
And last is a pidgeon pose as you said 😉
I hope this can help !
Bisous
Thank youuu!!
You should make a video about climbing shoes! Maybe some shoes you've tried and what might be better for a beginner versus advanced climber. Also some things to look out for when purchasing some shoes :)
how does your schedule look like? You told us in a previous video how much you do in a week but I wonder how you spread it out.
I have a hard time finding a balance between climbing 3 times a week, strength training and fingerboarding.
Awesome, definitely gonna try the active stretch
So helpful!
Question: what's your favourite climbing-gym and what's your favourite outside-spot?
Greetings and thanks for your awesome content!
I love your t shirt ! :) Keep on with the good content. Really cool stretching routine !
Awesome Video! Happy that my yoga practice covers this and compliments my climbing! :)
Big fan here sofya enjoy your superb energy and the videos. i wish you did some follow along exercise videos for streching, strenght or targeted muscles groups. or anything you are thinking for future actually. wishing all the best in comps 🤞👊🥇⚡
wow,this stretching exercise is super helpful,and most of the movement I've never seen before,can't wait to try it!
Q and A: what is/are the particular moment(s) that you fell in love with climbing?
Thank you for this video! I've been wanting to incorporate new stretches into my climbing routine, and found a couple new ones I really like. Also found that we do a lot of the same stretching!
Yes, a few new stretching exercises. Thanks a lot.
How did you got to climbing?
Complete tangent: what are you studying? you mentioned exams another time... How much time can you give to the studying given all the climbing/training/climbing?
Hey thanks for making videos. As a stiff person I think your mobility is insane! Have you ever worked through a serious injury, whether it was due to climbing or something else? How did you stay optimistic mentally?
This is a really useful way to approach stretching -- thanks.
Foam rolling before stretching is another good way to increase mobility and warm up
I would love this as a follow along! I tend to struggle to time myself for the stretches, so if I can just copy how long you hold it for it's much easier then I can also check I'm doing it right. Plus I would do it everyday and you would get lots of views
This is exactly what I've been doing lately! Great that you posted! :)
For the QnA video: how do you know what is it that's blocking you and you must improve in order to break through? does it have to be a coach/someone other than yourself or can you figure it out yourself?
Thanks a lot, you're doing a good job!
Hi Sofya, question: Have you every injured yourself while bouldering, which resulted in psychological hurdles when it comes to moves similar like when you hurt yourself?
I broke my leg when doing a dyno-jump, since then i just cant do it anymore and shiver when i see people uncontrollably...:(
What about climbing brings you back day after day, is there one memory you could point to where you knew this would be a big part of your life? I'm super happy you started a channel, keep up the great work!
Excellent! Already stole a couple of exercises from you core workout video, now I can steal some more. :)
How often do you have sport climbing session outside, if you do? Do you enjoy enjoy it more or less than indoor bouldering? And what grade do you usually climb in sport climbing, like the grade you know you have a lot of chances to onsight it?
How did you meet and get involved with the EKB crew? Also how would you structure a full week of training? You mentioned how you would do hang boarding but what does the rest of training look like?
Optimal stretch time according to most recent meta analysis is 30 seconds to 1 minute (30 seconds 3x a day being most optimal) With the focus on doing 10 minutes a week (more important than the stretch duration). If you stretch 2-3 minutes everyday you are overdoing it and do not get any additional benefits from your stretches (also 6 days per week is optimal)
I read about that too and used to do 3x 30s but my lower body gets so stiff after a day of training (and even rest) and I didn’t feel like 30s was long enough. So I’m trying out holding longer in a “comfortable” position and it seems to work better for me.
@@sofya_yokoyama I'm glad you found a routine that works for you. I also stretch slightly longer than 30 seconds. I just figured some people might use this to design their own stretching regimen and that maybe you weren't aware that you can stretch for shorter duration with seemingly same results. Thanks for responding sorry if I sounded critical. :)
Question: 2 parts: what’s your daily diet like? Do you have recovery days? Ie: How many days do you need to recover to full strength after a hard training session.
Thanks definitely going to try this one out
Q&A : What is your process in climbing in a few words ? (When did you start, how you learned, your first competitions...)
love how the vids starts… heyyyyy guyssss
hay sofya, i really enjoy your videos, thank you!
what can i do to recover faster between climbing sessions?
whenever i go day after day, i just feel that my hands are dead
Also, question for the video: When will you do some outdoor Boulder videos? Thanks!
How did you get in to the swiss team?
Also them slippers are fire, will they help me send harder? 🔥🤞🏽
This is something i 100% needed. Im stiffer than a plank
Question, who are you rooting for in the olympics?
Thanks for your videos 🙌
YEAS!!! I was looking forward to this one!
Do you have someone whose climbing style you try to emulate?
Similar but diff question: any climbing heros?
great video!
Question: what is your diet like?
What i think these stretches are called:
Active Stretches called Leg lifts (pidgeon/bendt knee-leg lift),
The name of those passive Stretches are: Forward folds, Butterfly, Spine rotation, Straddle, Side Split training, Launch position.
Thaaanks ! I’m going to learn what they’re called ahaha
I am a shorter climber, do you believe it is a negative and what are things shorter climbers can do to compensate in that case?
I've seen you indicate you're a "semi-professional" climber, do you have a job outside of climbing? If so, what do you do?
Thought I’d follow along and I can’t do the first one 😂 for some reason I can’t sit in an L shape, more of a \_ shape. I’ll try it anyway though and see if it improves!
Tbh I used to be like that too ! You can adapt the exercises to however far you can go and slowly, you’ll see progress !
Very good video
Thank you for this but I really wish people would stop saying "I'm really bad at this" because many people are "worse" and it can be quite discouraging lol XD
For the Q&A : Do you have any diet for climbing ? How do you deal with nutrition ?
I have a question:
What was your greatest succsess in climbing?
Ps. Loving your Videos.
do you have any tips for begginer climbers?
Really useful. Thanks
I'm giving a like just for the title and now I'm gonna watch.
Ur flexible af! 🤯
"If you are on your typical 2 hard weeks of training and feeling like your fingers are painful/sore/tweaky/etc, do you push forward and hope you will make it till your deload week or do you just train less for a while?" cheers
I think you should always listen to your body. Never push forward and hope to make it to a deload unless you are specifically training for a comp and overreaching. If your in pain and not recovering properly you need more rest or you will get injured. I’m a certified strength and conditioning specialist just to add some credibility to my opinion.
@@ryanoconnor9210 I agree but there's a strange grey zone of risk/reward where you also have to overload your body :(
@@alexgalays910 It shouldn’t be a grey zone if you have a designated program with specific deload weeks after ramping up your volume
Nooo don’t push through ahaha I’ve made that mistake many many times which resulted in my latest finger injuries (which have been around for over a year now) and it’s alwaaaaays better to take a couple of days off then pushing through and having to force rest for a couple of weeks or even months because your fingers hurt.
I understand how sometimes you have to push yourself, like if you feel physically tired and you just want to rest but you’re close to your rest week, then I push through it and rest more during rest week.
But if you feel like something could pop, twist, if you feel some strain, and could result to an injury, then take a couple days off (I give myself 2 days).
But yeah, it really depends on how your body works, how much it can take etc but yeah always listen to your body.
@@sofya_yokoyama ❤️
I’m not really in a position to give advice (being the most inflexible climber in the world!) but my friend who can do box splits said he alternated between active and passive stretching with an object in front of him to put his hands on
Thanks for the info! I want to get the box splits soooo bad ahaha
how old were you when you started climbing?
???What gets you to maintain your discipline on days when you’re really aching to bail???
For the Q&A: Do you think you climb differently as a female climber and if so how?
Any recommendations for younger climbers about training/climbing in general.
What exactly so the first few active stretches target? Like what is their purpose? Thank you!
It’s also a way to enhance your flexibility / mobility and helps you apply it into climbing. For example, it’s great if you can do the splits but, if you are on the wall, and you don’t have that “active strength” to stretch your leg out all the way into the splits to grab a foothold which is far away, then it’s not as useful. Hope this makes it clearer !
For your Q&A video: will you try gymnastics or other sports for a video
thank you for the video! Also are these stretches best done before or after you have a climbing session?
I stretch every evening so after a climbing session !
@@sofya_yokoyama thank you!
Do you have any tips for one arm pullups?
Whats the best way to gain finger strength? also, how can I get better at slopers?
Qa; hi! You live in swiss, which has a lot of super cool bouldering area, do you boulder a lot outside? you have project too keep you motivated or you climb mostly I'm the gym end don't have "rock" goals?
👍👍👍
Question: At which outdoor boulder spot can we find you? :D (Salutations depuis le Valais!)
Yo im late like 9 hours because of the time zone difference saddddd. anway lets gooooooo
How do you peel your oranges?
How would you describe your relationship with crack climbing? As it has gained some popularity on UA-cam, do you think it becomes a strictly necessary skill for all sport climbers in near future, or will the trend settle down with time, leaving cracks a rare occurrence in competitions?
freaking cool
What do you do to prepare physically and mentally in iso before a comp?
I have my first regional competition in a little over a week and I have no clue what do in iso and we can't have a coach in there with us
I’m going to respond to your question already because I may not have done the Q&A by time you have your comp.
If I start off with the mental side: I already prepare myself a few days before the comp by talking to my sports psychologist and write down the objectives I would like to achieve. Focus on things that will allow you to optimize your climbing and less on the result you would like to have. For example, I tend to focus too much on what the other climbers manage to do (like if they come back before the 5 min have ended, you can guess they made the boulder). So my objective is to not focus on them, it doesn’t help in anyway besides stress me out more and I want to focus on myself, my climbing, I tell myself that the comp is about me and the boulders and how I want to do as many as possible and most importantly have fun. And so in iso, I read the objectives I have written down, try to re arrange my thoughts to not think negatively and focus on breathing to help with stress.
And then for warm up in iso, I start off with skipping to get my heart beating a bit faster and warm my body up in general. Then i do a usual full body warmup with elastics bands etc, then do some stretching and also do some exercises which activate my core. Then time to warm up on the wall. I start off by doing easy stuff to get my fingers ready and bit by bit invent harder boulders to get my body ready for hard moves in qualis. It’s always hard to really know what to do but keep in mind that if you haven’t done it in warmup, whatever awaits you on the mats, you probably won’t be ready enough to give it all then and there. So try to do toe hooks, heel hooks, small holds, big holds, coordination moves, big jumps, some technical moves (slabs if you can), physical moves, lock offs, dynamic movements,… of course it also depends what kind of wall you have to warm up on but that’s about it ! Hope this helps !
@@sofya_yokoyama Thank you so much! You're awesome!
Do you ever do advanced Pilates?
Comment for the algorithm!
Your strength training program/workout???
i started climbing 2 months ago (just did my first 6b+ toprope) and want to get stronger hands. would you suggest to just keep climbing or could i already start using a hangboard?
My video before this one gives you info about hangboarding and some exercises you can do if you started climbing recently ! But I personally don’t find anything wrong with hangboarding. You just need to be very very careful and start off very easy. Not too much strain on fingers, no added weight, etc.
where are you from?
"Like my slippers?!" 😂
do you squat? Your legs look soo strong
its funny how you keep saying "I am bad at this exercise", and then I just sit down on the ground and struggle to even get in the right position, way before any stretching is actually happening
magnus does 1min stretching is that normal?
i like your pantuflas !