I know this is an old video, but I too went with SDR 35 (thin-wall PVC)... so much cheaper than Schedule 40 and way less weight to deal with. While I also tape mine, with HVAC foil tape like you used, the tip I can offer is to tape the seam as usual and fold the edge over to the narrower section just like you show. After that, run a second strip around the narrow section only to make sure is does not leak though the small folds, nor comes loose. I just don't like glueing it or using messy caulking. Never had an issue with leaks. Two or three 5/16" sheet metal screws ensure it never comes loose and they do not intrude into the pipe to cause clogs.
That new workshop is going to be great man. I wish i had one like that. Mine is my former garage. It is very small although it looks lots bigger on camera. I wish you the best of luck with your new shop my friend!
I got the LED 4' tubes to go in my regular fluorescent fixtures. They've been in there about 2 years and still look great. My shop is quite well lit. When I need to make changes, I'll definitely be looking at the strips.
I live close to your new shop, so don’t be surprised some morning if a strange dude is standing in front staring through the windows.... no need to say anything to me, no reason to make eye contact, no reason to make it weird... ill move along eventually
One way I've found to conquer something like a 7° angle on piping is to use a 45 or 22.5 and turn it slightly diagonally, so the angle is shared between two axes. It works great as long as you account for the added turn angle sideways and adjust the direction your dust collector or pipe is pointing. It may not always work out right though
Have you ever heard of Mastic tape?? I own an HVAC company and if its worth anything, I recommend getting you some 3" mastic tape to use instead of foil tape to hold your 6" pipe and fittings together.... It's basically foil tape with a very tacky glue type substance on the back.... It's actually a must for all my installs on the supply ductwork.... Love the shop though and I continue to stay impressed with the knowledge that you hand out on your channel.... Congrats and Good Luck Brother!!!!
Great set up James, I use old school shop vac dust collection and get by, also I up graded all my light to LED and that was the best money I have ever spent in the shop, keep up the good work thanks for posting
Nice! Your shop is coming along nicely. I’m envious! Those leds remind me of the old knob and tube without the shock. This is a great vlog, why warn that you are vlogging. If people complain, tell ‘em to shove it up thier touchy. I always enjoy you because I learn so much from your information that you’re willing to give and it’s free!
Looks like you are serious about this! Cool! I know 2 other woodworkers who are also friends and competitors. I've seen how they do it. They have every too I can imagine and more, but they are no match for yours. Thanks for sharing this.
That new lighting is nice. It makes you look bright. Normally your not that bright. Sorry, I could not resist. I upgraded to LED fixtures in the shop last year. It improves the lighting and the wallet.
You need to talk to Bob Clagett about automating those blast gates now. From one Michigander to another, have a cold one, cause you earned it. Super cool, James. Great job.
Another great option is to use for lighting are ballast bypass LED lights. It doesn't require removing the old fixtures but does remove the need and use of the the fluorescent ballast and wires the led tubes into direct 120 volt. Each build also has its own driver so it's as easy as changing a normal bulb if one goes out.
you need to try X-Treme Tape TPE-XR1536ZLB from Amazon. It's mainly used in automotive work, but it is a self fusing silicone rubber. it doesn't have any adhesive. You pull it tight and once it overlaps on itself it fuses together. Seals really well, slice it with a knife to remove it and no glue or tape left behind.
What an impressive space! In my MUCH smaller garage workspace I've had 600 mm square ceiling mount panels for some time and I love them. 6000 K works for me.
I have veru similar LED fixtures in my kitchen, hallway, and on my verendah. It's so bright i feel like someone is filming a remake of Close Encounters in my kitchen! Highly recommended.
Regular metal snap together ducting works really well and is cheaper than big pvc. You have to tp screw it together and tape all the seams. I ran an 8" trunk line down the center of my shop and 6" branches. My clearvue max doesn't try to collapse the pipe at all. Grounding the dc system is important with a cnc and metal pipe has the benefit of being easy to bond to the dc equip grnd. Large pvc like that is heavy, expensive and has static issues unless you run wire in it or around it.
Not sure what you mean by regular duct work, but the stuff sold in home centers is folded and riveted, so it leaks at the seams. I have yet to find a steel solution that is an inexpensive as PVC. And I've used PVC for years without grounding, as have countless others. I've never met a single person who had a static fire. Not in a small woodworking shop.
I know i'm gonna get crap for this, but I'm man enough to admit I messed up. I'm curious about what type of first aid kits to have readily available in my garage shop. Jan 1, 2019 was the first time my table saw bit me, but i only required 3 stitches so not a major deal but at that time i had nothing around to take care of it . I'm very cautious about working around these tools but i can't say that one of my tools wont bit me again. I appreciate your time. Thanks for the great videos!
lthose drug store kits are worthless in a shop. Look for something with trauma in the description. kits get quite expensive check out what they contain, may just need some sponges or pads. build your own kit.
Hey DJ BigMac209. I'm not Stumpy but I may be able to help you out. I have a fair amount of experience in advanced first aid and trauma response, as well as some in plant operations. First things first, always try to "engineer" out any potential for disaster. That doesn't mean hire an engineer if you aren't one. It just means that even if you or anyone else aren't thinking clearly and attempt something that would normally cause bad things to happen... well they don't. You've already put a system or mechanism in place to either clearly stop the person from doing a careless thing or you implemented a mechanism in the system to stop said things in their tracks. Once that is done, you need to take stock of personnel. If it's just you, an automated emergency response system is your best bet. You can't call for help, if you're by yourself and incapacitated. A small med kit will do for most injuries. As a very small rule of thumb, the bigger the med kit - the more people it will serve. They don't usually offer much in terms of emergency medical aid. If you think you may want to spend some money a deluxe kit, I would first recommend a wilderness first aid course. The advanced ones can teach you principles that will better serve you down your road in a garage shop. Hope that helps. Let me know if you need more detail on anything.
I only have five items in my kit. Electrical tape- the glue is antibacterial, wrap cuts and grazes, use enough and its a splint, etc etc Rag- needed to clean up before application of tape. Sewing needle- splinter removal Tweezers, sturdy and pointy- splinter removal. Plastic sandwich wrap- apply to burns to stop air touching the exposed nerves. (burns are the worst) If you can't sort it with the above items it's a trip to A&E. That's free here in NZ, sometimes shit but free!!!
Did you ever consider putting all the piping above the drop ceiling? It would have been harder to drop the tubes down through the acoustic panels, but it would have looked incredibly clean.
Use duct seal (it is a not hardening clay like block). Roll a bead of it I to about a 1/4" diameter and wrap it around the joint and work it in. The stuff is cheap too. It was about 2 or 3 a brick if I recall and 2 bricks or so could seal all of your joints. They sell it at home depot and lowes.
LED lighting is definitely the way to go for any kind of even coverage, flicker removal, & energy efficiency. Bouncing the light off walls for some extra diffusion, I've found, really helps with eye strain too. You can use normal silicone sealant if that tape on the ducts ever does become a problem. It should provided an airtight seal if applied carfully, will fill gaps, & yet will flex with the pressure changes. Just a pity about the way it smells until it's cured.
T12's are no longer made. T8's aren't far behind. LED is the best option... for now. Can't tell you how excited (jealous) I am about your new shop! I've even thought about starting my own woodworking show and calling it "Nubby Stumps".
@@rwe2156 not being a troll here...truly asking...Is is simply an urban legend? I've heard from and read on multiple sources that plastic does build up more static than metal ducting, and that the static discharge danger is far greater. I'm all for learning that this is an urban legend, but no offense, not just going to take your word for it. What're your sources? One of my primary are the guys at my local Woodcraft store. But I also didn't ask for their sources other than their thoughts. Hoping you're right!
@@rjlavallee3575 having worked in industrial safety planning, I can't say I've ever seen enough evidence that ranked it high enough to be a worthwhile risk to really care about on its own. The motor for a dust collector is a vastly higher fire risk than static shock on a pure dust collector system. That said, where the real risk of trouble comes from is if you do something 'extra special', such as trying to reuse the vacuum lines for something like a finishing spray booth. [And by 'extra special', I mean 'extremely stupid and dangerous'.] While a static discharge is very unlikely to be able to set off chain combustion in wood dust alone, it will have a far far easier time getting light vapours to go up. And that can be enough to kick off the sawdust, which can make for a hell of a time. Personally I'm rather on the fence for in-shop dust collectors and storage. On one hand external storage is safer in some ways, but is also at more risk of reduced maintenance and increases for different sources of damage [while also being more hidden.] so you increase the risk of an accident happening in the first place... Buying a size or two larger fire extinguisher than you think you really need, and buying a few more of them to have around a shop, is a pretty decent idea in my mind.
@@rjlavallee3575 I read a pretty extensive article about the explosive danger in dust collection systems. Most shops of James' size & down would never achieve the dust to oxygen ratio needed for an explosion to occur. It takes a lot more dust than you think. The dust particles need to be of a pretty high density since one dust particle needs to ignite another dust particle causing a chain reaction. The ignition to flame out time is very small so there needs to be a LOT of dust particles within near contact of each other. In tests I saw, the wood dust cloud had to be so thick yo could barely see more than a few feet. When does that ever occur while machining? Saws, planers, routers mainly make chips. Small shop sanders can't make a high enough dust concentration in a collection tube to explode. Static is rarely the problem.
I'm reminded of the time my old boss put a small addition on his house and got a new furnace for a few hundred bucks at Grainger because it got banged up in shipping. He had the contractor we used for ductwork come out and give an estimate to run new ducts in the crawlspace and they wanted $8000.........He said F-That and just blasted the heat into the crawlspace and cut vents in the floor........Probably not the most efficient but I'll bet he never spent an extra $8000 in heating bills though, so in the end it actually made sense.
wow very impressed numbs. lookin good my friend. oh by the way wheres my mail? ever since you bought the post office iv been missing all my amazon orders! if i see a new Robert sorby 2 inch slick chisel in an upcoming video, i will be so mad!
Please keep us updated on the progress of your dust collection system. I also have a 6" system/5 hp, but am not completely happy with it. I'm particularly interested in the chocking problem when going from 6" to 4".
I was less pleased in the old shop, but love it in the new shop. The difference is the ducting runs. I had too many bends in the old shop. The way the machines are designed make a big difference too. Some of the old machines were not designed for good dust collection, no matter how powerful the system. I've had no issues with reducing to 4-inches, but I do try to keep the reduction as close to the machine as possible with minimal flex-hose.
@@vogonpoet5860 In Star Trek IV they went from fighting Klingons to saving wales. What a letdown after III. Nemesis and insurrection were next generation. They don't count as real Star Trek movies.
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Coming along very nicely, many of us are drooling over your floor space. Ok, Ok, we know it cost a bomb. all things equal out. BTW, have you changed the light in the old shop? this video (on my monitor) looked a little brighter (washed out).
Late to this parade- dust collection comments/suggestions- Unless you have leaks at the machine blast gate(s), there is absolutely no reason to put a blast gate where a branch joins the main duct (I had this discussion with Bill P. some years ago)- no flow through the branch= zero loss of SP and zero impact on CFM- its like the branch is invisible to the system! Too bad you couldn't find ASTM 2729 PVC pipe- it has the same O.D. as the green SDR 35 you used and uses the same ASTM 3034 PVC or styrene fittings, but has a thinner wall (so slightly larger I.D. too), is lighter and cheaper. Did you check John Deere Landscapes, other irrigation suppliers, or Ferguson? Sealing PVC pipe/fittings- forget the HVAC foil tape. Instead slip fit (add a screw where there might be stress, e.g. vertical drop, if you must) and seal with a small bead of 100% pure silicone sealer (not latex-silicone mix!!!) applied to the outside- the silicon is and stays flexible, bonds well, but is not permanent- in fact, once set, it can be rubbed off easily with a finger! If you are OCD, you can get a really nice appearance by temporarily applying painter's or masking tape really close to either side of the seam, applying the sealer, then smoothing it out with a wet finger, kind of like sealing a bath tub. Remember, the system is under suction which helps keep the sealer in place and actually makes it seal better. Try it! How about "Not so Clear Vue"? Better stay away from Tony's and Bad River!
I know I'm half a year late for this party - but. Air flow at your machines - assuming 4" pipe - is twice as fast as in your main line pipes. You do get less head loss with the bigger pipe but the reduction in air speed is going to let some of the heavier bits lay on the bottom of the pipe. I have a one person shop with about 100 feet of duct work. I went with 4" all the way to the cyclone. When a chunk gets sucked into the duct, I like to hear it clank its way all the way to the catch can. I'd like to know if your 6" pipes are accumulating dust and chips that you aren't aware of. Roger
4 inch pipe is only capable of letting so much air through. My system is capable of pulling a lot more air than a 4-inch pipe will handle. I need at least 6-inch pipe to move that much air. Yes, the bottle neck is at the 4-inch machine ports. You can only pull so much through that port, no matter the size of your pipe. But with 6-inch pipe I can have multiple 4-inch ports open, each adding to the overall airflow in the large main. You can not do this with a smaller system because larger pipe requires more airflow to keep the chips from accumulating inside. But my large cyclone is more than capable of handling up to 8-inch pipe.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the quick reply. The trouble area would be at the first foot or so after the transition from 4" to 6". I'm glad to hear you have not had any trouble with your system.
Hi James, awesome work! I'm continuing planning for my ClearVue system. Question: On his web site, Bill Pentz states that a tool with less than a 3.5" diameter dust port is not appropriate for a centralized system such as a CV cyclone. Instead, he says, tools with small ports require high-velocity dust extractors (like, for example, a Festool CT26). What are you using for dust collection from small-port tools such as miter saws, band saws, or router tables? Thanks much!!! :-)
I’ve been out of woodworking for about eight years and now I’m thinking about starting back up. I’ve been flabbergasted by the changes I’ve noticed. For example, SawStop has yet to read about McDonald’s or Walmart because fleshnology is still a premium feature only found on SawStop. Wood rat has allowed the other guys to split the wood joining market because they’ve never read about Bill Gates. David Barron hasn’t figured out how to make the magnetic dovetail jig the only way to make hand cut dovetails and now the other guy has two magnets on his jig. At least Schwartz is still sharpening one of his 42 hand saws and Underhill is still walking to work so, I guess, some things never change. But no, the only fave of mine who seems to have properly hijacked the internet super train is “Stumpy Nubs”. It turns out Stumpy isn’t really a person at all. It seems Stumpy was just a brand name under the James Hamilton umbrella who is an author, teacher, producer, director, and editor, among other things. I’m lost I guess is what I’m saying. Do I need a $200,000 shop now or do I just watch “influencers” on UA-cam? Yours for the time being, Jim PS - Is that book out in paperback yet and would you mind having your secretary stamping me one if it is?
A (slight?) digression, but I definitely noticed the more saturated colors in this vlog. I suspected that you were uploading relatively raw "log" or "flat" ungraded footage previously and the very notable color difference here does suggest that that might have been correct. So the geeky question here is if you are still uploading footage essentially straight from camera but now have a color profile while shooting OR if you just now added a color grading step to your video editing workflow and the raw footage is still flat?
That is more likely because he is shooting under the LED lights in the new shop. They emit slightly different colors (spectral power distribution) and are picked up better by the eye than incandescent and fluorescent source of the same lumens.
I'm filming in a new space with new lighting and a different camera. It'll take a while to get it all dialed in. I personally like a more saturated look, but I think the contrast may be a little high, and worry the shadows behind the tool wall are distracting. It depends on the monitor/TV you watch it on as well. It looks good on the editing monitors, but terrible on the television monitors in the shop.
@@StumpyNubs Oh, funny -- I just saw the billions of planes behind you and assumed it was the old shop but yeah, a closer look makes it clear that it's definitely in a different space. Totally missed that. As far as the saturation level goes, it does look maybe just a tad too saturated on my primary monitor but it looks close to perfect on my phone. And since 99% of UA-cam views these days are coming from mobile users, that's probably the one one that matters!
First the upper ceiling is old style concealed tile and can be asbestos(and probably is). If not a product shop then why not just run the down the center with 3 or 4 @T's a rotating 90° and a flexible hose to coupler As a gate? I would have just used silicone to seal couplers and turn the collector on for 2mins to pull in and seal then install set screws. I did this in a smaller shop had the collector and aircompresser outside and with sound dampen. To make the rotating couplers had to drill threw 90°s and use a rubber sleeve /coupler with a bolt that attached to the ceiling and went threw the cente-line of the both the T's and 90°'s with a jam nut. We ended up drilling 3 holes into the T's with silicone and washers hold the pipelines and T's secured. Plugs on the end of the soft flexible collapsible tubes. The added bonus of the tubs storing up off the floor. The hardware inside the pipelines gave us grounding points to run a static wires to prevent static electrical fires. Found there is a spray paint that is conducive($$$). There was a couple of other things we used to Seal 90°'s the rotating arms were 10' long with another 90° coupler but on those we ran a 1/2" metal conduit with nuts welded on the ends and a counter weight off a eyebolt with a bucket hanging from it that we put dry unmixed concrete mix in. After we ran the system and made adjustment over a 2 year period. Most this was made out of ABS. Funny we had to sand the connection at the pivot and grease to let it move and make a handle for the rubber sleeves hoseclamp. Almost everything was on wheels or we could move with the palletjack. This shop had to pull double duty and worked on tractor/trucks and welding shop.
people are complaining you used green pipes? Its not a problem, lol, unless you bought it used! Curious why you didnt try installing the pipe above the drop ceiling?
"When you control the mail...you control, information!" -- Newman, and Stumpy
He apparently also controls all the "series of tubes". 😉
I know this is an old video, but I too went with SDR 35 (thin-wall PVC)... so much cheaper than Schedule 40 and way less weight to deal with. While I also tape mine, with HVAC foil tape like you used, the tip I can offer is to tape the seam as usual and fold the edge over to the narrower section just like you show. After that, run a second strip around the narrow section only to make sure is does not leak though the small folds, nor comes loose. I just don't like glueing it or using messy caulking. Never had an issue with leaks. Two or three 5/16" sheet metal screws ensure it never comes loose and they do not intrude into the pipe to cause clogs.
Super awesome shop ! and a bonus you get your mail quickly !
I honestly love this channel the sarcasm is amazing 🤣🤣🤣🤣👌👌👌👌
Looking good, those led lights make a huge difference. Can’t wait to see it finished.
I'm diggin' the new digs and glad your dog peed on it. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
I am so happy for you James! I will miss your old shop though. You created it with a lot of warmth and charm.
That new workshop is going to be great man. I wish i had one like that. Mine is my former garage. It is very small although it looks lots bigger on camera. I wish you the best of luck with your new shop my friend!
I got the LED 4' tubes to go in my regular fluorescent fixtures. They've been in there about 2 years and still look great. My shop is quite well lit. When I need to make changes, I'll definitely be looking at the strips.
Love this ducting approach, any approach was going to be expensive but you've taken a budget approach still.
I live close to your new shop, so don’t be surprised some morning if a strange dude is standing in front staring through the windows.... no need to say anything to me, no reason to make eye contact, no reason to make it weird... ill move along eventually
At least you gave him a heads up. So creepy.
i want to come too, i will bring snacks
At last you have all your "Ducts" in a row! lol, everything is coming together nicely!
One way I've found to conquer something like a 7° angle on piping is to use a 45 or 22.5 and turn it slightly diagonally, so the angle is shared between two axes. It works great as long as you account for the added turn angle sideways and adjust the direction your dust collector or pipe is pointing. It may not always work out right though
Wouldn't work in our case. We needed specific angles to the ceiling and two walls at the same time.
Have you ever heard of Mastic tape?? I own an HVAC company and if its worth anything, I recommend getting you some 3" mastic tape to use instead of foil tape to hold your 6" pipe and fittings together.... It's basically foil tape with a very tacky glue type substance on the back.... It's actually a must for all my installs on the supply ductwork.... Love the shop though and I continue to stay impressed with the knowledge that you hand out on your channel.... Congrats and Good Luck Brother!!!!
Really interesting to see the progress on your new shop. I particurally like the part on the LEDs starting around 8:00. Keep up the good work!
i like the work youre doing in you're shop
The shop looks like it’s really coming along nicely! Very jealous! Lol 😂 Looking forward to more of your adventures! The for sharing!!
Moving along in good shape. Thanks for sharing with us.
Great set up James, I use old school shop vac dust collection and get by, also I up graded all my light to LED and that was the best money I have ever spent in the shop, keep up the good work thanks for posting
Nice! Your shop is coming along nicely. I’m envious! Those leds remind me of the old knob and tube without the shock. This is a great vlog, why warn that you are vlogging. If people complain, tell ‘em to shove it up thier touchy. I always enjoy you because I learn so much from your information that you’re willing to give and it’s free!
Looks like you are serious about this! Cool! I know 2 other woodworkers who are also friends and competitors. I've seen how they do it. They have every too I can imagine and more, but they are no match for yours. Thanks for sharing this.
That new lighting is nice. It makes you look bright. Normally your not that bright.
Sorry, I could not resist. I upgraded to LED fixtures in the shop last year. It improves the lighting and the wallet.
You need to talk to Bob Clagett about automating those blast gates now. From one Michigander to another, have a cold one, cause you earned it. Super cool, James. Great job.
Nice! I like those lights! And, looks like having help with the duct work was a good idea.
Love that you have "Fixer Upper" on the tube while you work. LOL. (@ 7:19)
Happy to see the progress. Enjoy in good health.
I really like those light strips. Gives me a ton of ideas for my makerspace
(Subtle not subtle advertising wins again!)
Another great option is to use for lighting are ballast bypass LED lights. It doesn't require removing the old fixtures but does remove the need and use of the the fluorescent ballast and wires the led tubes into direct 120 volt. Each build also has its own driver so it's as easy as changing a normal bulb if one goes out.
enjoy that cold one. You've earned it. Great info on the material for the dust collection and especially the lites.
Getting all your ducts in a row.
Nice.
I love your yapping
you need to try X-Treme Tape TPE-XR1536ZLB from Amazon. It's mainly used in automotive work, but it is a self fusing silicone rubber. it doesn't have any adhesive. You pull it tight and once it overlaps on itself it fuses together. Seals really well, slice it with a knife to remove it and no glue or tape left behind.
I reviewed that stuff years ago. Good, but expensive. And dust keeps it from sticking.
Charming commercial right after sewage joke… priceless.
What an impressive space! In my MUCH smaller garage workspace I've had 600 mm square ceiling mount panels for some time and I love them. 6000 K works for me.
New lights are really cool.
I have veru similar LED fixtures in my kitchen, hallway, and on my verendah. It's so bright i feel like someone is filming a remake of Close Encounters in my kitchen!
Highly recommended.
Good information that about taped joints eventually leaking. It never dawned on me that was the reason. I thought it was low grade tape.
Good yammering. Thanks James.
OOOOOOH i love the final fantasy reference, ..... 2 ticks up on the coolness scale!
I like the Tiffany Blue pipes lol
Regular metal snap together ducting works really well and is cheaper than big pvc. You have to tp screw it together and tape all the seams. I ran an 8" trunk line down the center of my shop and 6" branches.
My clearvue max doesn't try to collapse the pipe at all.
Grounding the dc system is important with a cnc and metal pipe has the benefit of being easy to bond to the dc equip grnd.
Large pvc like that is heavy, expensive and has static issues unless you run wire in it or around it.
Not sure what you mean by regular duct work, but the stuff sold in home centers is folded and riveted, so it leaks at the seams. I have yet to find a steel solution that is an inexpensive as PVC. And I've used PVC for years without grounding, as have countless others. I've never met a single person who had a static fire. Not in a small woodworking shop.
I know i'm gonna get crap for this, but I'm man enough to admit I messed up. I'm curious about what type of first aid kits to have readily available in my garage shop. Jan 1, 2019 was the first time my table saw bit me, but i only required 3 stitches so not a major deal but at that time i had nothing around to take care of it . I'm very cautious about working around these tools but i can't say that one of my tools wont bit me again. I appreciate your time. Thanks for the great videos!
lthose drug store kits are worthless in a shop. Look for something with trauma in the description. kits get quite expensive check out what they contain, may just need some sponges or pads. build your own kit.
Hey DJ BigMac209. I'm not Stumpy but I may be able to help you out. I have a fair amount of experience in advanced first aid and trauma response, as well as some in plant operations.
First things first, always try to "engineer" out any potential for disaster. That doesn't mean hire an engineer if you aren't one. It just means that even if you or anyone else aren't thinking clearly and attempt something that would normally cause bad things to happen... well they don't. You've already put a system or mechanism in place to either clearly stop the person from doing a careless thing or you implemented a mechanism in the system to stop said things in their tracks.
Once that is done, you need to take stock of personnel. If it's just you, an automated emergency response system is your best bet. You can't call for help, if you're by yourself and incapacitated. A small med kit will do for most injuries. As a very small rule of thumb, the bigger the med kit - the more people it will serve. They don't usually offer much in terms of emergency medical aid.
If you think you may want to spend some money a deluxe kit, I would first recommend a wilderness first aid course. The advanced ones can teach you principles that will better serve you down your road in a garage shop.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you need more detail on anything.
I only have five items in my kit.
Electrical tape- the glue is antibacterial, wrap cuts and grazes, use enough and its a splint, etc etc
Rag- needed to clean up before application of tape.
Sewing needle- splinter removal
Tweezers, sturdy and pointy- splinter removal.
Plastic sandwich wrap- apply to burns to stop air touching the exposed nerves. (burns are the worst)
If you can't sort it with the above items it's a trip to A&E. That's free here in NZ, sometimes shit but free!!!
DUDE those LED lights are killer i like that idea !
Never thought I'd hear a Final Fantasy reference on this channel! It was a welcome surprise!
Would love to visit the New shop next time I am down state visiting family in west Bloomfield.
Did you ever consider putting all the piping above the drop ceiling? It would have been harder to drop the tubes down through the acoustic panels, but it would have looked incredibly clean.
@@boots7859 Right. It definitely would have been a lot more work. And we're not the ones doing the work.
Not enough room up there.
Use duct seal (it is a not hardening clay like block). Roll a bead of it I to about a 1/4" diameter and wrap it around the joint and work it in. The stuff is cheap too. It was about 2 or 3 a brick if I recall and 2 bricks or so could seal all of your joints. They sell it at home depot and lowes.
LED lighting is definitely the way to go for any kind of even coverage, flicker removal, & energy efficiency. Bouncing the light off walls for some extra diffusion, I've found, really helps with eye strain too.
You can use normal silicone sealant if that tape on the ducts ever does become a problem. It should provided an airtight seal if applied carfully, will fill gaps, & yet will flex with the pressure changes. Just a pity about the way it smells until it's cured.
Nice job your shop is looking awesome
Very impressive.
We installed led lighting in our shop. 24x30. Bright as day.
T12's are no longer made. T8's aren't far behind. LED is the best option... for now. Can't tell you how excited (jealous) I am about your new shop! I've even thought about starting my own woodworking show and calling it "Nubby Stumps".
Excellent and thanks for the tip on the lighting, I’m going to look into that for my shop.
Not sure how I managed to find a “new” dust collection video from u that I haven’t seen already …. 10 times lol
Looking really good, James. Thumbs up to crush a troll.
Thanks man! Been looking for LED lighting for my new shop.. perfect timing!
Love the new shop. Interesting having carpet in a woodshop though
Nice lighting, really amazing!!!
Big job, and certainly not easy...
I see a lot more people going to use that Post Office. I hope you have something to sell them. 🤑💰💵👍😎
Man o man looking good stumpy! But you know what the new shop means ... you better start putting out more and longer build videos😁
Get the white PVC 6 inch pipe at the local irrigation supply. I made my water tanks in our off road trailer. My price here is $15 for 10 ft.
I tried. Nobody sold it around here.
Be careful regarding static electricity when using pvc for dust ductwork.
Sparks can cause explosions in dust.
Urban legend. You can get a static shock from the metal blasts gates which can be grounded.
@@rwe2156 not being a troll here...truly asking...Is is simply an urban legend? I've heard from and read on multiple sources that plastic does build up more static than metal ducting, and that the static discharge danger is far greater. I'm all for learning that this is an urban legend, but no offense, not just going to take your word for it. What're your sources? One of my primary are the guys at my local Woodcraft store. But I also didn't ask for their sources other than their thoughts. Hoping you're right!
@@rjlavallee3575 having worked in industrial safety planning, I can't say I've ever seen enough evidence that ranked it high enough to be a worthwhile risk to really care about on its own. The motor for a dust collector is a vastly higher fire risk than static shock on a pure dust collector system.
That said, where the real risk of trouble comes from is if you do something 'extra special', such as trying to reuse the vacuum lines for something like a finishing spray booth. [And by 'extra special', I mean 'extremely stupid and dangerous'.] While a static discharge is very unlikely to be able to set off chain combustion in wood dust alone, it will have a far far easier time getting light vapours to go up. And that can be enough to kick off the sawdust, which can make for a hell of a time.
Personally I'm rather on the fence for in-shop dust collectors and storage. On one hand external storage is safer in some ways, but is also at more risk of reduced maintenance and increases for different sources of damage [while also being more hidden.] so you increase the risk of an accident happening in the first place...
Buying a size or two larger fire extinguisher than you think you really need, and buying a few more of them to have around a shop, is a pretty decent idea in my mind.
@@RealLuckless Most thoughtful, complete answer I've ever had. Thanks a ton. Off to get a second and third fire extinguisher.
@@rjlavallee3575 I read a pretty extensive article about the explosive danger in dust collection systems. Most shops of James' size & down would never achieve the dust to oxygen ratio needed for an explosion to occur. It takes a lot more dust than you think. The dust particles need to be of a pretty high density since one dust particle needs to ignite another dust particle causing a chain reaction. The ignition to flame out time is very small so there needs to be a LOT of dust particles within near contact of each other. In tests I saw, the wood dust cloud had to be so thick yo could barely see more than a few feet. When does that ever occur while machining? Saws, planers, routers mainly make chips. Small shop sanders can't make a high enough dust concentration in a collection tube to explode. Static is rarely the problem.
I'm reminded of the time my old boss put a small addition on his house and got a new furnace for a few hundred bucks at Grainger because it got banged up in shipping. He had the contractor we used for ductwork come out and give an estimate to run new ducts in the crawlspace and they wanted $8000.........He said F-That and just blasted the heat into the crawlspace and cut vents in the floor........Probably not the most efficient but I'll bet he never spent an extra $8000 in heating bills though, so in the end it actually made sense.
4:05 saved hundreds of dollars. Paint it white job done.
wow very impressed numbs. lookin good my friend. oh by the way wheres my mail? ever since you bought the post office iv been missing all my amazon orders! if i see a new Robert sorby 2 inch slick chisel in an upcoming video, i will be so mad!
Great idea on the lights a 1/3 rd wow
I looks like your bench and tool wall are in the new shop already.
Please keep us updated on the progress of your dust collection system. I also have a 6" system/5 hp, but am not completely happy with it. I'm particularly interested in the chocking problem when going from 6" to 4".
I was less pleased in the old shop, but love it in the new shop. The difference is the ducting runs. I had too many bends in the old shop. The way the machines are designed make a big difference too. Some of the old machines were not designed for good dust collection, no matter how powerful the system. I've had no issues with reducing to 4-inches, but I do try to keep the reduction as close to the machine as possible with minimal flex-hose.
Great thanks for your videos
A greeting from Spain
I'm envious Stumpy, but I think I would have removed the suspended ceiling if possible.
Apparently this is a thing now... dare I say that ClearVue should look into.... Transparent Aluminum!
@@jrkorman you just made scottys day, now he can beam aboard the whales. pity the federation credit card got hammered
@@vogonpoet5860 - Worst Star Trek movie ever.
@@StumpyNubs worse than nemesis ? or insurrection ?
@@vogonpoet5860 In Star Trek IV they went from fighting Klingons to saving wales. What a letdown after III. Nemesis and insurrection were next generation. They don't count as real Star Trek movies.
@@vogonpoet5860 I like Insurrection even though I was never a Data fan. Nemesis was terrible, right along with ST5.
Magnets for mounting the light fixtures -- you genius! I am stealing this idea for my garage.
Full disclosure: It was American Green Lights' idea :)
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Coming along very nicely, many of us are drooling over your floor space. Ok, Ok, we know it cost a bomb. all things equal out. BTW, have you changed the light in the old shop? this video (on my monitor) looked a little brighter (washed out).
Crazy as a fox !
I‘ve been thinking of buying a Tormek for some time now, and you‘ve got two! The world is a cruel place sometimes 🥴😢😂
I have 4, one of each model :)
Stumpy Nubs Just decided I hate you 😂
Love the shop build videos, keep em coming 👍
shop looks great ,keep going bud
Good video!
Late to this parade- dust collection comments/suggestions- Unless you have leaks at the machine blast gate(s), there is absolutely no reason to put a blast gate where a branch joins the main duct (I had this discussion with Bill P. some years ago)- no flow through the branch= zero loss of SP and zero impact on CFM- its like the branch is invisible to the system! Too bad you couldn't find ASTM 2729 PVC pipe- it has the same O.D. as the green SDR 35 you used and uses the same ASTM 3034 PVC or styrene fittings, but has a thinner wall (so slightly larger I.D. too), is lighter and cheaper. Did you check John Deere Landscapes, other irrigation suppliers, or Ferguson? Sealing PVC pipe/fittings- forget the HVAC foil tape. Instead slip fit (add a screw where there might be stress, e.g. vertical drop, if you must) and seal with a small bead of 100% pure silicone sealer (not latex-silicone mix!!!) applied to the outside- the silicon is and stays flexible, bonds well, but is not permanent- in fact, once set, it can be rubbed off easily with a finger! If you are OCD, you can get a really nice appearance by temporarily applying painter's or masking tape really close to either side of the seam, applying the sealer, then smoothing it out with a wet finger, kind of like sealing a bath tub. Remember, the system is under suction which helps keep the sealer in place and actually makes it seal better. Try it!
How about "Not so Clear Vue"?
Better stay away from Tony's and Bad River!
Yet the folks who worked directly with Pentz to develop his collector commercially (ClearVue) say the opposite.
I know I'm half a year late for this party - but. Air flow at your machines - assuming 4" pipe - is twice as fast as in your main line pipes. You do get less head loss with the bigger pipe but the reduction in air speed is going to let some of the heavier bits lay on the bottom of the pipe. I have a one person shop with about 100 feet of duct work. I went with 4" all the way to the cyclone. When a chunk gets sucked into the duct, I like to hear it clank its way all the way to the catch can. I'd like to know if your 6" pipes are accumulating dust and chips that you aren't aware of. Roger
4 inch pipe is only capable of letting so much air through. My system is capable of pulling a lot more air than a 4-inch pipe will handle. I need at least 6-inch pipe to move that much air. Yes, the bottle neck is at the 4-inch machine ports. You can only pull so much through that port, no matter the size of your pipe. But with 6-inch pipe I can have multiple 4-inch ports open, each adding to the overall airflow in the large main. You can not do this with a smaller system because larger pipe requires more airflow to keep the chips from accumulating inside. But my large cyclone is more than capable of handling up to 8-inch pipe.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the quick reply. The trouble area would be at the first foot or so after the transition from 4" to 6". I'm glad to hear you have not had any trouble with your system.
Looking good
Hey James... did you get the hanging ceiling completely put back? In my area, not having all the tiles in is a fire code violation.
Time stamp 7:18 I love fixer upper!!!
I'm new to this channel and love it but Curious. You seem to have all your fingers, why Stumpy Nubs?
Wow this is so awesome. I admire your work. Congrats. Can I be your apprentice?
next you should install the disco ball.... but kidding aside, very informative nice job..
You must be making a killing on this You Tube thing!!! Wish I could afford your kit!!!
James, don't know what's going on but I haven't been getting any notifications for your new videos! Great update on the shop BTW!
You can't count on UA-cam to give you updates. You have to visit your favorite channels individually.
Hi James, awesome work! I'm continuing planning for my ClearVue system. Question: On his web site, Bill Pentz states that a tool with less than a 3.5" diameter dust port is not appropriate for a centralized system such as a CV cyclone. Instead, he says, tools with small ports require high-velocity dust extractors (like, for example, a Festool CT26). What are you using for dust collection from small-port tools such as miter saws, band saws, or router tables? Thanks much!!! :-)
I’ve been out of woodworking for about eight years and now I’m thinking about starting back up. I’ve been flabbergasted by the changes I’ve noticed.
For example, SawStop has yet to read about McDonald’s or Walmart because fleshnology is still a premium feature only found on SawStop. Wood rat has allowed the other guys to split the wood joining market because they’ve never read about Bill Gates. David Barron hasn’t figured out how to make the magnetic dovetail jig the only way to make hand cut dovetails and now the other guy has two magnets on his jig. At least Schwartz is still sharpening one of his 42 hand saws and Underhill is still walking to work so, I guess, some things never change.
But no, the only fave of mine who seems to have properly hijacked the internet super train is “Stumpy Nubs”. It turns out Stumpy isn’t really a person at all. It seems Stumpy was just a brand name under the James Hamilton umbrella who is an author, teacher, producer, director, and editor, among other things.
I’m lost I guess is what I’m saying. Do I need a $200,000 shop now or do I just watch “influencers” on UA-cam?
Yours for the time being,
Jim
PS - Is that book out in paperback yet and would you mind having your secretary stamping me one if it is?
I'm not sure if you're insulting me or not...
Only if you’d consider insults entertaining. LoL
Best,
Jim
A (slight?) digression, but I definitely noticed the more saturated colors in this vlog. I suspected that you were uploading relatively raw "log" or "flat" ungraded footage previously and the very notable color difference here does suggest that that might have been correct. So the geeky question here is if you are still uploading footage essentially straight from camera but now have a color profile while shooting OR if you just now added a color grading step to your video editing workflow and the raw footage is still flat?
That is more likely because he is shooting under the LED lights in the new shop. They emit slightly different colors (spectral power distribution) and are picked up better by the eye than incandescent and fluorescent source of the same lumens.
I'm filming in a new space with new lighting and a different camera. It'll take a while to get it all dialed in. I personally like a more saturated look, but I think the contrast may be a little high, and worry the shadows behind the tool wall are distracting. It depends on the monitor/TV you watch it on as well. It looks good on the editing monitors, but terrible on the television monitors in the shop.
@@StumpyNubs Oh, funny -- I just saw the billions of planes behind you and assumed it was the old shop but yeah, a closer look makes it clear that it's definitely in a different space. Totally missed that.
As far as the saturation level goes, it does look maybe just a tad too saturated on my primary monitor but it looks close to perfect on my phone. And since 99% of UA-cam views these days are coming from mobile users, that's probably the one one that matters!
First the upper ceiling is old style concealed tile and can be asbestos(and probably is). If not a product shop then why not just run the down the center with 3 or 4 @T's a rotating 90° and a flexible hose to coupler As a gate? I would have just used silicone to seal couplers and turn the collector on for 2mins to pull in and seal then install set screws. I did this in a smaller shop had the collector and aircompresser outside and with sound dampen. To make the rotating couplers had to drill threw 90°s and use a rubber sleeve /coupler with a bolt that attached to the ceiling and went threw the cente-line of the both the T's and 90°'s with a jam nut. We ended up drilling 3 holes into the T's with silicone and washers hold the pipelines and T's secured. Plugs on the end of the soft flexible collapsible tubes. The added bonus of the tubs storing up off the floor. The hardware inside the pipelines gave us grounding points to run a static wires to prevent static electrical fires. Found there is a spray paint that is conducive($$$). There was a couple of other things we used to Seal 90°'s the rotating arms were 10' long with another 90° coupler but on those we ran a 1/2" metal conduit with nuts welded on the ends and a counter weight off a eyebolt with a bucket hanging from it that we put dry unmixed concrete mix in. After we ran the system and made adjustment over a 2 year period. Most this was made out of ABS. Funny we had to sand the connection at the pivot and grease to let it move and make a handle for the rubber sleeves hoseclamp. Almost everything was on wheels or we could move with the palletjack. This shop had to pull double duty and worked on tractor/trucks and welding shop.
The tiles are paper, they are very common
LED light = LED oven in the summer ... ;-)
Huh?
LEDs had the lowest heat output of any lighting, assuming you’re not working with crap.
Did you consider dropping the drop ceiling down a couple more inches and hiding the ductwork above the tiles?
No. I saw no need to do all that work.
Did u ever move to that new shop for streaming?
people are complaining you used green pipes? Its not a problem, lol, unless you bought it used! Curious why you didnt try installing the pipe above the drop ceiling?
Not enough room up there.
Did you not have to reduce the pipe size as you had more branches coming off the main line
Great video as usual, one question, have you used any bonding in/on the ducts? If not do you get any static?