Quick tip, for the front brakes use the brake line bolt and insert it in the small hole of the rotor, it pushes the rotor out without having to hammer it and possibly damaging your wheel bearing.
What if I am only replacing the rotors? I have brembo brakes with 4 pistons. Do I have to spread them out all the way, or can I just spread them out enough to fit the rotor?
I've watched several videos on replacing rotors on Subarus and they say don't use the screw holes on the rotors to get them off. They're wrong. I used 3"-8mm-125 pitch bolts and the rotors broke lose with very little effort with a 13mm wrench. So, much easier than any other method.
My left rear was a bit of a pain. I tapped one of the pads in place. I think I may need t redo it maybe not. Will see how it wears. It isn't smoking when I drove on highway and brakes operate fine feel wise.
Great video man! Nice step by step guide to getting the pads & rotors swapped out. I happened to pick up the same FactionFab brake kit a few weeks ago and am in the process of installing. I was wondering on the rear rotors about 11:10 in that 12mm screw you put into the two holes to loosen the old rotor. Where did you get that from? Thanks man & keep making great content for this WRX!
Any opinions: is it worth upgrading to Hawk HP+ or EBC Yellowstuff, or will I eventually end up going for a big brake kit, so don't waste money on the stock brakes?
At some point after 2015, it seems they switched to a larger bolt to mount the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. I have a 2021 WRX and mine needed a 19mm socket in front (and the rear calipers use a 17mm socket). Just to keep everyone on their toes! And yes they're all very tight.
Good video. I would only add that you should take the time to check, clean and grease with the appropriate water repelling grease the pins on which the caliper slides to distribute the pressure on the pads evenly. To do so requires to pull them out of the rubber boots being careful not to tear them. You will get far longer use of your pads and discs.
In doing brakes + rotors on my wife's Hyundai Santa Fe, I turned the wheel to expose the caliper assembly after the wheel was off to make assessing the caliper bolts easier. Is there something on the 15+ WRXs that makes this ill-advised?
Nope, I just found I could get a better swing on the torque wrench that I have in the 15+ wheel well. I did our 14 Elantra coupe and turned the wheel as well lol
if they are very stuck, I would take a hammer or a mallet and start by lightly hammering all over the rotor surface, work on breaking the rust bond that is making it stick
@@AutoEnthusiast oh man, in that case I may not get it. I thought the hawk yellow premium wouldn’t. I do know the hawk blue squeak since it’s composite
You can crack open the bleeder to allow the brake fluid to push out as you open the caliper. This way you’re not pushing old fluid through your system. Add fresh fluid back into the reservoir.
No. You only need to bleed them if you disconnect the lines. Since you don't disconnect the lines to do this, the system remains intact. No air gets in that would require bleeding.
Hey boss! Thanks for making this video. How are you liking these new brakes? I put StopTechs on mine and the lovely New England weather rusted them out in about 11 months to the point where they’re grinding on everything, so I’m looking for opinions on other options.
@@AutoEnthusiast appreciate the replay! I ended up going getting OEM rotors and hawk pads. Gonna keep my stainless lines so hopefully I don’t lose too much stopping power.
Quick tip, for the front brakes use the brake line bolt and insert it in the small hole of the rotor, it pushes the rotor out without having to hammer it and possibly damaging your wheel bearing.
I was told too take cap off brake fluid reservoir did you do that
I would like to know as well
TYVM for including torque specs in your vid. Love to see it.
No problem 👍
What if I am only replacing the rotors? I have brembo brakes with 4 pistons. Do I have to spread them out all the way, or can I just spread them out enough to fit the rotor?
I love it. No bleeding off brakes necessary.
I was wondering 😂
Should the spring clip be under or outside of the pad. I’ve seen it both ways.
What size are the lug nuts 6 or 12 point?
I've watched several videos on replacing rotors on Subarus and they say don't use the screw holes on the rotors to get them off. They're wrong. I used 3"-8mm-125 pitch bolts and the rotors broke lose with very little effort with a 13mm wrench. So, much easier than any other method.
My left rear was a bit of a pain. I tapped one of the pads in place. I think I may need t redo it maybe not. Will see how it wears. It isn't smoking when I drove on highway and brakes operate fine feel wise.
Diameter for front & rear rotor the same?
Great video man! Nice step by step guide to getting the pads & rotors swapped out. I happened to pick up the same FactionFab brake kit a few weeks ago and am in the process of installing. I was wondering on the rear rotors about 11:10 in that 12mm screw you put into the two holes to loosen the old rotor. Where did you get that from? Thanks man & keep making great content for this WRX!
It's the screw that holds the clip for the brake line
@@AutoEnthusiast thanks for clearing that up - makes sense now after re-watching that portion. Thanks man!
What rotors and brake pads did you use it
Any opinions: is it worth upgrading to Hawk HP+ or EBC Yellowstuff, or will I eventually end up going for a big brake kit, so don't waste money on the stock brakes?
At some point after 2015, it seems they switched to a larger bolt to mount the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. I have a 2021 WRX and mine needed a 19mm socket in front (and the rear calipers use a 17mm socket). Just to keep everyone on their toes! And yes they're all very tight.
Question. What kind of bolt do i need exactly for the rear rotor removal? Where did you get that 12mm bolt
caliper bolt!
Get a boot and put it back through the caliper bracket with a nut and you can force them off that way too.
Are you some where in the Midwest? Crazy how Rusty and nasty cars get in snow environments.
Boston!
Good video. I would only add that you should take the time to check, clean and grease with the appropriate water repelling grease the pins on which the caliper slides to distribute the pressure on the pads evenly. To do so requires to pull them out of the rubber boots being careful not to tear them. You will get far longer use of your pads and discs.
I've been looking into upgrading mine also let me know how they are treating you! Thanks for the vids keep it up!
In doing brakes + rotors on my wife's Hyundai Santa Fe, I turned the wheel to expose the caliper assembly after the wheel was off to make assessing the caliper bolts easier. Is there something on the 15+ WRXs that makes this ill-advised?
Nope, I just found I could get a better swing on the torque wrench that I have in the 15+ wheel well. I did our 14 Elantra coupe and turned the wheel as well lol
Love your content man can’t wait to see the mid week vid!! And can’t wait to see the next power stuff on the car
Thanks for the support!
@@AutoEnthusiast most def man can’t wait to see your front lip and side skirts that you are going to be making
In the works! The delays because of covid are killer lol
@@AutoEnthusiast yea I have been dealing with that in the glass industry and while trying to build my car so I understand
Hey how do you get stuck rotors off? What size bolt do I put in to pop the rotor off??
if they are very stuck, I would take a hammer or a mallet and start by lightly hammering all over the rotor surface, work on breaking the rust bond that is making it stick
Nice bro! I’m planning to get hawk premium pads with dba slotted rotors
Just FYI, all the hawks I have heard squeek!
@@AutoEnthusiast oh man, in that case I may not get it. I thought the hawk yellow premium wouldn’t. I do know the hawk blue squeak since it’s composite
I can't speak for all of their pads, just passing on what I have heard and what other owners have told me!
Thanks for the guide!
No problem!
How has this performed over stock rotors?
Decent improvement!
Great video, thank you, watched to the end
You didn’t have to bleed your brakes?
You can crack open the bleeder to allow the brake fluid to push out as you open the caliper. This way you’re not pushing old fluid through your system. Add fresh fluid back into the reservoir.
No. You only need to bleed them if you disconnect the lines. Since you don't disconnect the lines to do this, the system remains intact. No air gets in that would require bleeding.
Nice video bro now am gonna attempt to do mines
Do it! Easiest install!
amazing video, thanks for the help
What kind rotors are those?
FactionFab!
Hey boss! Thanks for making this video. How are you liking these new brakes? I put StopTechs on mine and the lovely New England weather rusted them out in about 11 months to the point where they’re grinding on everything, so I’m looking for opinions on other options.
Oof no bueno. These are awesome so far, no rust yet. But it is a ticking time bomb being in Boston.
@@AutoEnthusiast appreciate the replay! I ended up going getting OEM rotors and hawk pads. Gonna keep my stainless lines so hopefully I don’t lose too much stopping power.
Thanks dude!
Happy to help!
Don’t you have to bleed the brakes?
You don't have to, but maybe a good time to do it!
Thanks bro!
No problem!
We have the same wheels😂
Good job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Good knowledge on vid but watch the gum chewing. Got a little distracting trying to to listen.
subaru wrx sti
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Subaru WRX
Good job.