Samsung Dishwasher Leak Sensor Replacement
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the leak sensor on a Samsung dishwasher. The most common reason for replacing the leak sensor is the dishwasher not running at all.
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All of the information for this leak sensor replacement video is applicable to the following brands:
Samsung
Tools needed: phillips head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, 5/8 inch wrench, 9/64 inch hex head screwdriver, pliers
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Thank you for sharing this video; I didn't know where the leak sensor would be. Our model is a DW80M2020US, so the switch's design was a little different: it was an upside-down snap-action switch clipped into a round plastic bezel that was clipped to the access pan over a large, 1cm or so thick disc of styrofoam. I had to sit and look at it for a little while to figure out how it worked (you'd think it would have been obvious, but I'm an automotive technician and not an engineer) because I didn't want to risk reassembling it and having it trip again.
I thought it was pretty clever: the styrofoam disc gets pushed into the button of the switch by water. I thought it would be a switch that would use leaked water as a conductor to complete the circuit, instead of a mechanical action. As a bonus, it won't get as corroded by water. The service cover and a lot of the plastic cladding is even designed to funnel water down to the switch, especially on the side with hose connections, so that you're less likely to have an unseen leak cause damage to your kitchen. It's probably a bit weird for me to appreciate such mundane things, but it sure is nice when engineers make life so much easier by thinking ahead and considering the end users.
PS for anyone making this repair: The leak on my dishwasher was due to a loose nut fastening the top drawer sliding rails to the housing of the dishwasher. I guess the fastener was slowly backed off via vibrations of using the drawer, so the fender washer under the nut was no longer applying enough pressure to the sealing o-ring under it. The bolt that passes through the sliding rail and the dishwasher's housing took a small Torx bit, and the nut seemed to be an 8mm. Had this happened on the side of the washer without hose connections, it might not have been able to reach the switch, because the cladding isn't shaped to channel water into the service cover on that side. I was able to simply dry the access panel, styrofoam disc, and switch off to clear the error after I fixed the leak. I'd thought that the leak would have either been from a hose connection, the door seal, or the seal around whatever connects the motor to the lower spray arm, so I thought I'd share what mine was for anyone who's checked those other spots and found nothing.
Thanks for posting this comment. You just saved me hours of troubleshooting! I have the same model and same issue with the torx/star bolt. And yes I agree, smart design with the styrofoam disc!
Also had the same issue. Thank you!!
Would this be why the “heavy” led would blink?
Thanks for this video, my husband was happy I made the repair myself rather than call someone out or just buy a new dishwasher, and I felt like a champ, lol. Thanks for your help! :)
This worked!! So thankful I didn't have to call a repair person!!
My water hose isn't located in the front like this video. What should I do?
The silver water hose wasn’t attached to the front of the dishwasher like the example. I just edged the dishwasher out very carefully (so I could stop if I felt resistance) and discovered it connected at the back. I was able to rotate the dishwasher enough to get access and unscrew it.
Thanks for your vids, they have taught me and saved me $$$
+multiphasic Glad to help.
Why using leak sensor, how working this sensor, please answer sir....
If the unit is running and wont shut off other than at the breaker than its NOT a leak sensor, its a leak.
That simply isn't always true. If the sensor is faulty then you will see the same faulted power cycle and error code.
VERY unlikely that this sensor would ever "fail" and need replacement. The "sensor" itself is simply 4 metal pins seated in the white plastic housing, there are no active electronics or anything to really fail. These pins stick out a little so that when the sensor assembly is mounted in place, the pins stick down into the cavity of the bottom cover. Any leaking water will drip down into this bottom cover at some point will collect enough to form a conductive path between the pins, and that change between dry and conductive is what is sensed as a "leak". So save your time and money and do not buy a replacement leak sensor to fix an LE "leak" fault, the issue is how the water got there not the sensor itself.However, this video is excellent for showing the steps to gains access to the sensor and where the water collects to trip the sensor. My Samsung DMT800 dishwasher had a persistent LE fault and wouldn't run, so I used this video to uninstall the unit and remove the sensor, and I did find moisture in the leak pan and in the sensor area. Once I wiped/dried this out, cleaned some crud off the sensor pins and reinstalled the sensor, I hooked power back up and the LE code was now gone. So the sensor system was doing its job at detecting water where it shouldn't have been. Don't yet know how/why I got water leaking, nothing obviously disconnected or loose, but will hook the unit back up and run some cycles to see if the fault returns.
I believe you can access the sensor and catch basin (for leaked water) from removing the side panel as well, as opposed to going through the bottom. I think leaving it upright makes it easier to try to identify potential leaks since you are observing the machine in its normal operating position (and you can see more of what's going on inside).
I just pulled my Samsung for about the 5th time in 6 years to clean the tub and float chamber, which gets gunked up and will not run a cycle. Spilled some water into the the lower tray while removing a hose and after I put it all back together, I got the flashing "heavy" light for water sensed. Really don't want to go in again so I have a hair dryer running to dry out the tray. From the parts diagram, looks like the sensor sits in a small indent, so maybe considerable water there. Hairdryer is running.😀
Thanks for the observation that the leak sensor seldom fails. Look for water!
Pulled the unit back out, took off side panel (right side, looking at DW) and located the leak detector. It sits over a 1/2" deep indentation in the base and mine was full. Evaporation would have worked...eventually. I used a towel to absorb most of the water then paper towels. Used the hair dryer again and plugged in the DW. All is well.
Agreed Paul - although in my case there was some substance (almost like hardened grease or dried balsamic vinegar) that made it's way down into the connector to the sensor and triggered the LE code - I even attempted to add some flat washers to raise the level of the sensor and made no difference - the only possible thing I can think of is that the "substance" was able to bridge the connection at the connector. Just like others have mentioned I don't have any obvious leaks but sometimes a drop or two if the DW is opened in mid cycle that must be getting down in the drip pan - I've had the DW in and out of it's "home" a few times in the past couple of weeks and finally ended up removing the sensor to buy a new one (about $20 online). It's frustrating and time consuming trying to track these issues down - the alternative is that you have a kitchen full of water - that's not good either.
@@Scotty_in_Ohio sorry about the thumb down . I meant to hit the ‘show more’ button
How do you know if the sensor has failed
Curtis5353 in
I'm not sure how to test if it's "failed" I took a small dish and added some water with a couple drops of dish soap and checked the resistance with a Volt Ohm meter set for 200k ohms - on continuity settings it'll still read open circuit you have to have the resistance set really high in order to get a reading - heck I would imagine if the pins were a little closer together on a humid day the LC code might come on ;-)
never buy a samsung dish washer nor refrigerator
They're all junk. Samsung is no better or worse than any other brand.