I made the design in Inkscape. You need an .svg file or vectorized file for it to work, at least that's what the print shop asked for. My local print shop was really nice about it. There were 4 in my area and when asking around for quotes the other 3 refused to make just the screen for me, they all wanted the cost of labor to actually print all the housings... The last one, and closest to me which worked out nicely, made just the screen and gave me pointers on how to get started which was really nice of him! I'm going back for a second screen soon with new models/designs :) If you need help making your layout I'm glad to help!
Thanks you! I am looking to build my own amps and didn't know what was the best way to label the control panels. I think the methods I will use is to powder coat my aluminum panels and then use a jig similar to yours to screen plate. Just need to figure out how to build the jig.
Great video , man .... exactly the video I was hoping to find ! Thank you for posting this to help us new and eager pedal builders that are just getting into this field . You put a smile on my face and information in my head ! 🙂
Hi friends! I have heard that general use synthetic enamel could be used as ink, although it is not recommended due to the vicosity and the drying time, ask and the solvent that it uses (turpentine) should not affect the screen, right? great video !! Cheers!
Yeah you can use enamel ink. That's what I wanted to use but I couldn't find anyone who sold it in France. And I guess it's hard to have it shipped internationally. I use solvent based ink on my screens and solvents (thinner) to clean the screen, no problem. Just tell the person who is making the screen if you're going to use solvents, water based inks, enamel...because the fab process will be a little different. For example, when I had my screen made for solvent inks the print shop told me not to use water to clean it because it would be ruined.
You can't drop water on the screen as the stencil is a water based emulsion so it's good with solvent ink .... Likewise for water based inks you need a solvent based stencil ... Great video man ✊✊✊✊✊
Ideally you would flood the screen prior to a pull, here you are just pulling on to a dry screen, not recommended. You should initially flood . . .then pull (print), then gently pull the ink backwards (flooding the screen) and repeat, you also appear to be putting far too much force into the pull, probably because you are not flooding the screen. The ink that is meant to go onto the print surface is meant to be the ink already (flooded) in the screen, not the ink you drag from the top of the screen.
I've changed my technique since making this video, need to make another to show how I do it now. I put housings around the one I'm printing to better support the screen and squeegee. I also increased the off contact a little. I also stopped pushing down so hard and that made a big difference in the final result. Since changing I've got very few misprints, I did 50ish housings the other day and only had 1 misprint that was my fault- I didn't seat it properly and when I pulled it pushed down the housing at the same time, making the ink smear. Thanks for the info, I'm still learning and am happy to improve my technique!
Thanks for the video! I want to do the same thing on a powder coated metal piece. What ink and clean up chemicals do you recommend that I can get in the US?
IMO solvent inks work best on powder coating because they bond to the material. You don't need a top coat because it's pretty resistant. To clean the screen you need a dilatant or solvent cleaner. They smell very strong so you'll need a mask and a well ventilated area to print.
Hello, sorry for the late reply! The ink I use dries on its own in just a few minutes and basically bonds to the powder coating on the housing. Solvent ink would be fine on road cases, I think!
Awesome setup! Thanks for the vid. Did you have to have all the artwork in a single image file when having the screen made, or did he line up the individual images for you? How did you get the image spacing so perfect to be able to make a simple jig to position the enclosures?
I put all the artwork on a single vector file. I knew I could buy 1cm square pieces of wood so I spaced them all 1cm apart. On my new screen I placed them farther apart. I made a different jig to make positioning the housing more precise. Basically now my screen doesn't move, I have a little platter that the housings go in that I tape down once it's in position.
Wow man, nice. For multi colors would you mask the pedal off on the part you don’t want that particular color? Seems like the most common-sense way, but I am gearing up to do this myself and doing a bunch of research.
Thanks! For multiple colors you'd either have to mask off the parts you don't want to print with that color or have multiple screens with each color as different layers. The only problem or challenge would be getting the different layers to align between drying and switching screens or peeling off tape. It definitely can be done though :)
I just found out about your pedals and your channel after watching the latest video on Palf. I'm happily surprised by the variety of the pedals already available and all of them seem to be well thought, so congrats ! I've also remarked that some pedals (ie Nitro Drive Deluxe, Apollo, Apollo 4K) are not displayed on your website. Are these discontinued pedals or better, future pedals to come?
Hello and thank you! I came out with a bang in March with 10 pedals. The 11th was the Odyssey 4k that I put out last week and the 3 others will be available soon!
If you use a pre-painted enclosure from Tayda then a solvent based ink is easy to work with. It bonds to the polyester powder coating they use and is really durable.
if water ruins it, he made a shit stencil for you - you'd want a water based emulsion that becomes waterproof after exposure - look up Ulano QTX - thats what i use
I misunderstood what the guy said :) You can get water on it. It will just wash away the blockout liquid solution (the yellow part around the green emulsion on the screen). I made this video when I first got in to screen printing. I've learned a ton since then and made a new video to show better technique here: ua-cam.com/video/SZAbRpvGun4/v-deo.html I use the blockout solution to close up any pinholes. On my old screen I used tape to block off any areas that I wasn't printing and doing that so many times eventually put pinholes in the emulsion but a little solution and it's just fine. I used the old one for a little over a year and it held up awesome. The guy did really good work, so I went back for a second screen in march for my new models.
Great now I need to watch a video on how to make the screen. Must be a nice person that made that for you.
I made the design in Inkscape. You need an .svg file or vectorized file for it to work, at least that's what the print shop asked for. My local print shop was really nice about it. There were 4 in my area and when asking around for quotes the other 3 refused to make just the screen for me, they all wanted the cost of labor to actually print all the housings... The last one, and closest to me which worked out nicely, made just the screen and gave me pointers on how to get started which was really nice of him! I'm going back for a second screen soon with new models/designs :)
If you need help making your layout I'm glad to help!
Thanks you! I am looking to build my own amps and didn't know what was the best way to label the control panels. I think the methods I will use is to powder coat my aluminum panels and then use a jig similar to yours to screen plate. Just need to figure out how to build the jig.
Great video , man .... exactly the video I was hoping to find ! Thank you for posting this to help us new and eager pedal builders that are just getting into this field . You put a smile on my face and information in my head ! 🙂
Thanks man! I've got a new video detailing my new process. Fewer misprints, better alignment... check it out: ua-cam.com/video/SZAbRpvGun4/v-deo.html
Thank you for this video! What emulsion liquid did you use? What light did you use when printing the screen?
Great Video on screen printing. Nice work!
Hi friends! I have heard that general use synthetic enamel could be used as ink, although it is not recommended due to the vicosity and the drying time, ask and the solvent that it uses (turpentine) should not affect the screen, right? great video !! Cheers!
Yeah you can use enamel ink. That's what I wanted to use but I couldn't find anyone who sold it in France. And I guess it's hard to have it shipped internationally. I use solvent based ink on my screens and solvents (thinner) to clean the screen, no problem. Just tell the person who is making the screen if you're going to use solvents, water based inks, enamel...because the fab process will be a little different. For example, when I had my screen made for solvent inks the print shop told me not to use water to clean it because it would be ruined.
You can't drop water on the screen as the stencil is a water based emulsion so it's good with solvent ink .... Likewise for water based inks you need a solvent based stencil ... Great video man ✊✊✊✊✊
Hey, thanks for the comment! I've been following you work for a while on instagram :) Your printing setup is awesome!
Great channel! Thank you for all the help!
My dream work
Ideally you would flood the screen prior to a pull, here you are just pulling on to a dry screen, not recommended.
You should initially flood . . .then pull (print), then gently pull the ink backwards (flooding the screen) and repeat, you also appear to be putting far too much force into the pull, probably because you are not flooding the screen.
The ink that is meant to go onto the print surface is meant to be the ink already (flooded) in the screen, not the ink you drag from the top of the screen.
I've changed my technique since making this video, need to make another to show how I do it now. I put housings around the one I'm printing to better support the screen and squeegee. I also increased the off contact a little. I also stopped pushing down so hard and that made a big difference in the final result. Since changing I've got very few misprints, I did 50ish housings the other day and only had 1 misprint that was my fault- I didn't seat it properly and when I pulled it pushed down the housing at the same time, making the ink smear.
Thanks for the info, I'm still learning and am happy to improve my technique!
Perfect! Nice job
Thanks for the video! I want to do the same thing on a powder coated metal piece. What ink and clean up chemicals do you recommend that I can get in the US?
IMO solvent inks work best on powder coating because they bond to the material. You don't need a top coat because it's pretty resistant. To clean the screen you need a dilatant or solvent cleaner. They smell very strong so you'll need a mask and a well ventilated area to print.
That ain’t just dries on its own? How long? Probably good stuff for me to use on road cases correct?
Hello, sorry for the late reply! The ink I use dries on its own in just a few minutes and basically bonds to the powder coating on the housing. Solvent ink would be fine on road cases, I think!
Awesome setup! Thanks for the vid. Did you have to have all the artwork in a single image file when having the screen made, or did he line up the individual images for you? How did you get the image spacing so perfect to be able to make a simple jig to position the enclosures?
I put all the artwork on a single vector file. I knew I could buy 1cm square pieces of wood so I spaced them all 1cm apart.
On my new screen I placed them farther apart. I made a different jig to make positioning the housing more precise. Basically now my screen doesn't move, I have a little platter that the housings go in that I tape down once it's in position.
Wow man, nice. For multi colors would you mask the pedal off on the part you don’t want that particular color? Seems like the most common-sense way, but I am gearing up to do this myself and doing a bunch of research.
Thanks! For multiple colors you'd either have to mask off the parts you don't want to print with that color or have multiple screens with each color as different layers. The only problem or challenge would be getting the different layers to align between drying and switching screens or peeling off tape. It definitely can be done though :)
Thank you man! Good video!!
I just found out about your pedals and your channel after watching the latest video on Palf.
I'm happily surprised by the variety of the pedals already available and all of them seem to be well thought, so congrats !
I've also remarked that some pedals (ie Nitro Drive Deluxe, Apollo, Apollo 4K) are not displayed on your website. Are these discontinued pedals or better, future pedals to come?
Hello and thank you! I came out with a bang in March with 10 pedals. The 11th was the Odyssey 4k that I put out last week and the 3 others will be available soon!
@@SignalCheyne How nice! 🤗
What durometer of squeegee do you use?
Thanks man!
What kind of paint is that?
Hi, Ive made some great look pedals, but untill now im learning how to print them. What kind or type of ink I have to use in painted enclousure?
If you use a pre-painted enclosure from Tayda then a solvent based ink is easy to work with. It bonds to the polyester powder coating they use and is really durable.
Can you use auto acrylic paint for this?
I think car paint would be too thin/watery to use...
@@SignalCheyne I see.. thanks for your reply.
Is it toxic? Is the smell toxic?
Yes!
if water ruins it, he made a shit stencil for you - you'd want a water based emulsion that becomes waterproof after exposure - look up Ulano QTX - thats what i use
I misunderstood what the guy said :) You can get water on it. It will just wash away the blockout liquid solution (the yellow part around the green emulsion on the screen). I made this video when I first got in to screen printing. I've learned a ton since then and made a new video to show better technique here: ua-cam.com/video/SZAbRpvGun4/v-deo.html
I use the blockout solution to close up any pinholes. On my old screen I used tape to block off any areas that I wasn't printing and doing that so many times eventually put pinholes in the emulsion but a little solution and it's just fine. I used the old one for a little over a year and it held up awesome. The guy did really good work, so I went back for a second screen in march for my new models.