Good tip with the zip tie. Be careful with the click type torque wrenches on the top end of these engines. The spec is super low and if you creep up to it too slow it won’t click. The cam tower threads can be pulled out verrrry easily if you go any amount of the spec. A dial type torque wrench is a bit safer for this job.
@@CanyonChasers Yeah, for me it's the sound of me doing something correct but Backmarker is correct with the dial type torque wrench. I also wanted to have that when I still have my racecar with me. How nice it would be to have all the tools one would ever need, right?
I'am doing this at the moment. This KTM frame is a pain in the ass. Most of the job is getting to the valve cover... the rest is easy thanks to your vid.
Iam here to like the video before even watching it. That tells how important this video is to me. Will watch it after work. Watching from South Africa.
I haven't had a 390 in the shop, but the big motors are the most diabolically complex (and expensive) design ever! I will follow this build, this ancient old fool would like to race one more time. Yeah! Team Old And In The Way!!!
When it comes to the shims, cam lobes, valve stems, and rockers, what is the point of wear? In other words, which of those components wears out faster? I would think the shim would wear before the valve stem, rocker, or cam lobe. So why couldn't you just replace the shim with new ones at the original factory thickness?
The taping of this video took pretty much all day, which included moving the camera. My mulitple takes to say what I meant, driving to my local moto shop to swap shims and buttoning it all up. If I could have just turned on some music and got to it - probably two to three hours.
Nice video! I got a shim kit for it because I figured I would be doing this a few times and a decent aftermarket one was cheap... But then again I have a shim kit for nearly every bike I own... I have spent more upgrading this bike than any other bike I've ever had including my race bike I raced for 4 years. So far everything has been worth it and I still want to spend more. My friend has BST carbon fiber wheels on his, super duper improvement but I can't justify the cost. I'm hoping you seeing me on my 390 at YCRS had some small influence on this. I haven't loved a bike like this since my 998!
Haha. It did. But this bike is actually for Mrs CanyonChaser, although I'm sure I'll be turning laps on it as well. And my order from Grey Market came in today. Fuel injector, spark plug boot, steering stops and high pressure radiator cap. I'll be ordering a rear shock this week too. I think I'm going with the K-tech.
@@CanyonChasers Heh you'll be faster on all other bikes if you do laps on the 390... I went with the Andreani fork cartridges and Ohlins rear shock and I wouldn't do it again (but I would be happy to talk to reps from either). I would go with Ohlins fork cartridges and something else for the shock. I was warned that I would blow the seal on the Ohlins shock and it did happen. Maybe this is because I'm 220 pounds and riding it pretty quick... It works great though. Ktech is probably a good choice. The R6 stock shock option probably isn't bad either, check Formula 390 for the hardware to make it happen.
I've had awesome luck with K-Tech, which is why I'm sticking with that shock. The Andreani's came with the bike. 🤷♂️ And I'm really excited to turn laps on it! But I picked up tires yesterday. Good LORD that front wheel is heavy. WTF?!?! (either that or I'm getting a lot weaker) haha.
yay task accomplished.. with the engine on the motorcycle ... to remove the rubber cover was kinda sad 🥲. The rectifier/regulator is good where it is, heat won't be an issue they last long. unlike Regulator located on a triumph street triple -2015-2017 or the new Panamericana 🤭...
The Reg/Rect generates a fixed output. If more is going in than going out - like we've removed a lot of the draw by removing the headlight and such, the excess is converted to heat. Fortunately, thanks to LED lights, this is becoming less of a concern.
@@CanyonChasers Im interested in learning more about that, it doesnt make sense to me for it to work like that, doesnt the alternator only "send" the current needed by the electronics of the car/bike? it doesnt send excess current right?
Why is rectifier working harder if the headlights don't draw any current? As I understood, the more current that goes through the rectifier, the harder it would have to work. At least that's how it works in the welder I converted from AC to DC.
Because no current is going back out to run headlights, etc. Maybe it's getting better with modern bikes having LED lights? Removing the LED headlight doesn't change the workload that much.
@@CanyonChasers Add a resistor maybe? Measure the resistance of the headlight unit and add a resistor to the rectifier. Could help in case it needs help.
The SV shreaded rectifiers. The 848 has been going for fifteen years without a hitch. It's not always a problem. I really think keeping them cool is all thats necessary in most cases.
@@doitdamnit I am mechanically inclined but never worked on a motorcycle before I bought one. I bought a 2008 Honda Rebel 250 to convert into a bobber and bought a manual. That is how I learned how to work on a bike.
Typically, unfortunately, it means it may be time for an actual valve job, or worse case, a new head. You can try to hand lap the shim down enough to get it into spec, but that only gets you to the next valve adjustment.
Hey Dave, long time watcher, I think first time writing, blah-blah-blah. Two questions: 1. Where did you get your original measurement from? I understand you measured the shims with a multi-meter, but how did you find the "measured" part? 2. Can you explain more about what you meant about adjusting to the loose end of things versus the tight?
You first measure with a feeler gauge. And the manual will have a valve adjustment range. If possible we want to aim for the wider/lose end of that range. It’s not always possible, but that should be in the back of our minds as we make adjustments.
I have avoided shim type valve adjustments like the plague Only bike I had that required shims was an old xs1100, wich you could pull the shims out without pulling the camshafts, unlike modern aupersports that use shim under bucket Fortunately on that one once you got the shim loose from the bucket, you can pull it out with a magnet Went back in that way to
@@CanyonChasers my experience with shim over bucket wasn't bad at all Of course that's limited to the xs1100 I mentioned, maybe other shim over buckets are different Then again I haven't done shim under bucket, I just cringe at the idea of trying to pull cams and maybe the chain coming off the crank 😂
Yeah, the chain coming off the crank does happen. Not in the way you imagine, but they'll slip teeth. Thats why you put everything at TDC, and then make sure all the timing marks line up again when finished. My last shim over bucket experience required a special tool that just took days to do each valve. I don't much mind Shim under bucket, but crazy as it sounds, I've spent so much time around Ducati's, I almost prefer dealing with Desmo's now.
for the bodywork just tell yourself, it wont fit like its supposed to and it will take much modifications and custom brackets. set the bar low and it wont be disappointing. lol
@@CanyonChasers Ha! I ended up having to replace a valve and guide when the chain slipped on the sprocket in the process of installing a manual chain tensioner.
I would never take a part off that the manufacturer put there in place for a reason, weigh it and then throw it away. But only because i don't bother weighing it before it goes in the bin.
I actually didn't have the heart to throw the hateful rubber thing away. It's sitting on the bench now. Not sure if It'll make it back in or not. Since these bikes have a tendency to run hot, I'm inclined to leave it out just for cooling purposes. Thoughts?
@@CanyonChasers that rubber bit is holding heat in the engine in an attempt to keep from transferring it to the airbox and fuel in the tank. the CBR i had boiled fuel at BC49 pace so they wrapped the underside of the tank and airbox with gold heat tape, the same stuff on the back of my old 675 for the undertail exhaust. it's a better/cleaner solution than the rubber nonsense. Look GP to go GP.
The satisfying sound a torque wrench makes. Nice video Dave. Great mechanical skills.
Right?!? Isn't it one of the best things in the world?
Good tip with the zip tie. Be careful with the click type torque wrenches on the top end of these engines. The spec is super low and if you creep up to it too slow it won’t click. The cam tower threads can be pulled out verrrry easily if you go any amount of the spec. A dial type torque wrench is a bit safer for this job.
Great tips!!! And I've been meaning to get a dial torque wrench for a number of reasons.
@@CanyonChasers Yeah, for me it's the sound of me doing something correct but Backmarker is correct with the dial type torque wrench. I also wanted to have that when I still have my racecar with me. How nice it would be to have all the tools one would ever need, right?
As a mechanically-inept rider, I am SO grateful for people like you who aren't afraid of taking things apart and putting them back together.
Oh, I'm afraid. Thats what makes me take my time and never to force anything. 😎
Validation of Stoic philosophy, "things are rarely as bad as you imagine beforehand ". Fun series of videos. Good job!
Yes! Thank you!
I'am doing this at the moment. This KTM frame is a pain in the ass. Most of the job is getting to the valve cover... the rest is easy thanks to your vid.
Very nice series here, nicely produced and informative. One for the archive!
Iam here to like the video before even watching it. That tells how important this video is to me. Will watch it after work. Watching from South Africa.
Hello South Africa! Thats some real confidence there, brother. Thank you!
I haven't had a 390 in the shop, but the big motors are the most diabolically complex (and expensive) design ever! I will follow this build, this ancient old fool would like to race one more time. Yeah! Team Old And In The Way!!!
There's something to be said for straight-forward engineering. Yeah?
These set of vids are really enjoyable to be watching.
Deep respect for your endeavor.
I don't know how you do it but you make it look like there's so much more room than there is to work on these bikes. 😜
Haha. It was still pretty crowded in there.
Great video as always. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Keep up the good work and more power to you!
An adjustable telescopic magnet makes getting those shims in and out so much easier.
Fun series - thanks :)
Glad you like them!
Try a magnet probe to grab your valve shim.
ktm trackbike user here! had alot of upgrades done to my bike
hello man, how do u know what are the intake and exhaust valves? i cant uderstanw what is it and what is not. thank u
Do you have that excell sheet? lol. I need it.
I do! Here it is and I'll post it in the description: bit.ly/3pk9ed3
It amazes me, someone without mechanic skills whatsoever, how people with such skills in their craft can just tear everything and build it back.
You do great work, love the channel!
Thank you!
When it comes to the shims, cam lobes, valve stems, and rockers, what is the point of wear? In other words, which of those components wears out faster? I would think the shim would wear before the valve stem, rocker, or cam lobe. So why couldn't you just replace the shim with new ones at the original factory thickness?
Why Do Motorcycles Need Valve Adjustments? What is Wearing Out?
👍. Looks like fun. How long do you figure it took you to get this done minus the bodywork of course?
The taping of this video took pretty much all day, which included moving the camera. My mulitple takes to say what I meant, driving to my local moto shop to swap shims and buttoning it all up.
If I could have just turned on some music and got to it - probably two to three hours.
Nice video! I got a shim kit for it because I figured I would be doing this a few times and a decent aftermarket one was cheap... But then again I have a shim kit for nearly every bike I own... I have spent more upgrading this bike than any other bike I've ever had including my race bike I raced for 4 years. So far everything has been worth it and I still want to spend more. My friend has BST carbon fiber wheels on his, super duper improvement but I can't justify the cost. I'm hoping you seeing me on my 390 at YCRS had some small influence on this. I haven't loved a bike like this since my 998!
Haha. It did. But this bike is actually for Mrs CanyonChaser, although I'm sure I'll be turning laps on it as well. And my order from Grey Market came in today. Fuel injector, spark plug boot, steering stops and high pressure radiator cap.
I'll be ordering a rear shock this week too. I think I'm going with the K-tech.
@@CanyonChasers Heh you'll be faster on all other bikes if you do laps on the 390... I went with the Andreani fork cartridges and Ohlins rear shock and I wouldn't do it again (but I would be happy to talk to reps from either). I would go with Ohlins fork cartridges and something else for the shock. I was warned that I would blow the seal on the Ohlins shock and it did happen. Maybe this is because I'm 220 pounds and riding it pretty quick... It works great though. Ktech is probably a good choice. The R6 stock shock option probably isn't bad either, check Formula 390 for the hardware to make it happen.
I've had awesome luck with K-Tech, which is why I'm sticking with that shock. The Andreani's came with the bike. 🤷♂️
And I'm really excited to turn laps on it! But I picked up tires yesterday. Good LORD that front wheel is heavy. WTF?!?! (either that or I'm getting a lot weaker) haha.
yay task accomplished.. with the engine on the motorcycle ...
to remove the rubber cover was kinda sad 🥲.
The rectifier/regulator is good where it is, heat won't be an issue they last long.
unlike Regulator located on a triumph street triple -2015-2017 or the new Panamericana 🤭...
I actually didn't have the heart to throw it away. It's sitting on the bench. It may still make it back in...
how is a regulator rectifier going to work harder with no headlights? isn''t less current passing by it a better thing?
The Reg/Rect generates a fixed output. If more is going in than going out - like we've removed a lot of the draw by removing the headlight and such, the excess is converted to heat. Fortunately, thanks to LED lights, this is becoming less of a concern.
@@CanyonChasers Im interested in learning more about that, it doesnt make sense to me for it to work like that, doesnt the alternator only "send" the current needed by the electronics of the car/bike? it doesnt send excess current right?
Wish I was as mechanically confident as you. Well done 🤓 stay safe 💙
Why is rectifier working harder if the headlights don't draw any current? As I understood, the more current that goes through the rectifier, the harder it would have to work. At least that's how it works in the welder I converted from AC to DC.
Because no current is going back out to run headlights, etc. Maybe it's getting better with modern bikes having LED lights? Removing the LED headlight doesn't change the workload that much.
@@CanyonChasers Add a resistor maybe? Measure the resistance of the headlight unit and add a resistor to the rectifier. Could help in case it needs help.
The SV shreaded rectifiers. The 848 has been going for fifteen years without a hitch. It's not always a problem. I really think keeping them cool is all thats necessary in most cases.
Nice series, Dave! I wish I had one tenth of your mechanical skills😔
But anyway I'm looking foreward to your first track videos on your 'new' bike!
Buy a cheap bike, maybe even one you don't intend to use, and wrench away on it. One of the best ways to learn.
@@briarfox637 yes I bet that's the perfect way to get into it!
@@doitdamnit I am mechanically inclined but never worked on a motorcycle before I bought one. I bought a 2008 Honda Rebel 250 to convert into a bobber and bought a manual. That is how I learned how to work on a bike.
How do you make sure its top dead center om the power stroke?
There are marks on the flywheel (behind the window in the case) and typically on the cam gears. Your manual will tell you specifically for your bike.
@@CanyonChasers Yes but seeing if its on the power stroke tho?
What can i do if its still tight with the lowest shim number, except replacing the valve seats
Typically, unfortunately, it means it may be time for an actual valve job, or worse case, a new head.
You can try to hand lap the shim down enough to get it into spec, but that only gets you to the next valve adjustment.
Hey Dave, long time watcher, I think first time writing, blah-blah-blah. Two questions:
1. Where did you get your original measurement from? I understand you measured the shims with a multi-meter, but how did you find the "measured" part?
2. Can you explain more about what you meant about adjusting to the loose end of things versus the tight?
You first measure with a feeler gauge.
And the manual will have a valve adjustment range. If possible we want to aim for the wider/lose end of that range. It’s not always possible, but that should be in the back of our minds as we make adjustments.
@@CanyonChasers Duh! Thanks for the response!
I have avoided shim type valve adjustments like the plague
Only bike I had that required shims was an old xs1100, wich you could pull the shims out without pulling the camshafts, unlike modern aupersports that use shim under bucket
Fortunately on that one once you got the shim loose from the bucket, you can pull it out with a magnet
Went back in that way to
They're not that bad. Better than Shim _OVER_ bucket. Those are the worst!!
@@CanyonChasers my experience with shim over bucket wasn't bad at all
Of course that's limited to the xs1100 I mentioned, maybe other shim over buckets are different
Then again I haven't done shim under bucket, I just cringe at the idea of trying to pull cams and maybe the chain coming off the crank 😂
Yeah, the chain coming off the crank does happen. Not in the way you imagine, but they'll slip teeth. Thats why you put everything at TDC, and then make sure all the timing marks line up again when finished.
My last shim over bucket experience required a special tool that just took days to do each valve. I don't much mind Shim under bucket, but crazy as it sounds, I've spent so much time around Ducati's, I almost prefer dealing with Desmo's now.
You're going to force my hand to finally getting a RC390
Lol i remember fitting my first set of race bodywork. what a miserable experience.
I done my shime and the bike ran great and I rode it down the road and back turned it off and now it won't start any Idea
Always check the cheap/easy stuff first. The 390 has two ground leads. Make sure they are both tight.
for the bodywork just tell yourself, it wont fit like its supposed to and it will take much modifications and custom brackets. set the bar low and it wont be disappointing. lol
I like your zip tie tip ... know why? ;-)
Why? I'm dying to know!
@@CanyonChasers Ha! I ended up having to replace a valve and guide when the chain slipped on the sprocket in the process of installing a manual chain tensioner.
(Can use KTM's Rectifer(its 3phase)just have to change to power connector cover from krm to triumph Striple n volah💰💰saved )😉 its trade secret💸
I fantasize having a garage to work on my bikes because I dread doing valve adjustments outside.
Never going to do this myself.
No shame it that. At least it helps everyone understand what goes into the job so you don't feel so bad paying your trusty local mechanic.
I would never take a part off that the manufacturer put there in place for a reason, weigh it and then throw it away. But only because i don't bother weighing it before it goes in the bin.
I actually didn't have the heart to throw the hateful rubber thing away. It's sitting on the bench now. Not sure if It'll make it back in or not. Since these bikes have a tendency to run hot, I'm inclined to leave it out just for cooling purposes. Thoughts?
@@CanyonChasers that rubber bit is holding heat in the engine in an attempt to keep from transferring it to the airbox and fuel in the tank. the CBR i had boiled fuel at BC49 pace so they wrapped the underside of the tank and airbox with gold heat tape, the same stuff on the back of my old 675 for the undertail exhaust. it's a better/cleaner solution than the rubber nonsense. Look GP to go GP.