For the top speed: hayabusa gear ratios: - first gear: 2.615:1 - sixth gear: 1.043:1 overall gear ratios with Low, medium and high: - first low: 44.455:1 - sixth low: 17.731:1 - sixth medium: 9.9:1 - sixth high: 6.26:1 looking at the dyno of a gen1 hayabusa engine we take the max hp rpm for calculating the max speeds -->9500 rpm (1/min) speed = number of revolutions(1/h) * Wheel circumference (km) / final ratio number of revolutions = 9500 1/min = 570000 1/h wheel circumference = 255.35 cm = 0.00255 km Low range, first gear @ 9500 rpm = 32,7km/h = 20.3 miles/h Low range, sixth gear @ 9500 rpm = 82 km/h = 51 miles/h Medium range, sixth gear @ 9500 rpm = 146.7 km/h = 91.1 miles/h High range, sixth gear @ 9500 rpm = 232.3 km/h = 144.3 miles/h you probably cant drive that fast because the engine wont have the power to reach 9500rpm in high 6th gear, but thats the theoretical speed. You can use the formula to check and calculate other speeds at other engine rpms and compare it to real life Please feel free to correct anything I might have done wrong.
so change gearing to double the ratio should be a thing to focus on crawling. 115 km/h or 70 mph highspeed should be more than enough for that kind of vehicle.
@@ALWhiteAuthor I know it can rev higher, but with the weight of the vehicleand the higher wind resistance I figured I'd use the max hp rpm for a touch more realism
@rather B welding You're cooling issue can be fixed with a vacuum bleeder for the coolant system, you have a massive air bubble and the pump can't move air. But if you vacuum the air out you can make the system solid with fluid.
For your coolant if you do not bleed all the air out of it, it will not cool properly. Try that before relocating the radiator, its the same thing with cars. you might need a coolant bleeder tool that hooks up to your air compressor to bleed the coolant.
I just wanted to say that if you stick with the current cooling system and add an electric pump for more flow, you will get far better cooling than the rear mount radiator. Mainly because of the piping running to the front acting as a radiator also. You might actually run into a problem of too much cooling once it flows properly. Awesome build.
@@SloMoGarage-un2vr To be fair he did say at the beginning that going with a chain driven system was basically an experiment to see if it was realistically viable. It should probably be shaft driven for strength and longevity imo, but it's interesting to see it with chains. I'd be a little freaked out riding in it though also 😆
@@MinecraftLudwigLPyeah using easy numbers (10000 rpm and 1:1 crankshaft to sprocket [which is pretty close to 6th gear ratio]) I got 158 mph, which is a lot closer to what you got.
You could probably fab something like what we use in kart racing to keep the sprockets and chains protected from running over curbs on track. Just a guard that is slightly larger in diameter than the sprocket with the chain on it that fits on both sides of the sprocket. Helps keep the chain on as guide but also protects the sprocket itself from being bent or damaged.
Once you run those mufflers for a while they'll get louder after the packing has time to break in. I can't wait to see you hit a trail with this. It's an absolute work of art dude.
Something you may want to do with the radiator/fan is provide an overrun so that the fan remains on for a minute or two after the engine is turned off. A lot of vehicles have this now as the engine/coolant continues to heat after the engine is off for a short while. Another cool & innovative build 👍
The only ones I have seen are 1. in an over-temp condition the fans will run after IGN shut-off (if over a specified engine temp) and 2. Turbo cars for turbo cooldown. That's it.
@@steveww07 Yep, that's exactly what they're for. To cool down an over temp situation. It's a simple temp sensor that turns the fan on/off when required. It causes the fan to stay on after the ignition is turned off until the system cools down. I understand, I could be wrong, it was developed to help prevent block cracks in alloy engines. Plus, it'd be one less thing to be mindful of when off roading - turning the fan on lol It's just a suggestion, not a point of contention.
Exchange the radiator with the fuel tank, this way you can cut some off of the long back end, and I still think you need to drop that chain tentioner to the lower chain in place of the upper chain you have now...
This channel growing fast I’m glad to be apart of it love the videos and your fabrication skills are are a skill of there own . Your content always delivers and can’t wait till the next upload keep them coming.
Dude, your like a friggin mad scientist! Wow is that thing sweet just like everything you build. You sure are a smart fella and talented fabricator!👍🏼🤘🏼✌🏼
Thanks for the video. I have watched nearly all of your videos, and I have to admit you are a talented builder/fabricator. I just have one word to say in regards to your off-road vehicles: fenders. Dude when you finally take them off on trails you wind up getting so soaked and mud covered you look like you just fell in a big mud hole, instead of of just driving through one. Great stuff, keep em' coming.
i really like your idea of putting two coolant temp sensors, going in and coming out of the engine, should give you a good idea of how well your radiator is working at different speeds right? definitely sounds better without the baffle but not too loud.
The low temperature on coolant into the engine verifies the radiator and pump is working right? Unless there's an air pocket in the pump and it's not pumping coolant at all. Testing the air temperature coming off the radiator would varify if heat is being extracted from the engine.
I’m loving the craftsmanship Food for thought I have thought about using fiberglass body parts for a truck like hood front fenders and bedside to make the trophy truck look
As for the exhaust system, I worked in a muffler shop. and ultimately you will want the exhaust system to be free flowing. with as few sharp bends in the system as possible. but if you're wanting low end grunt and more torque. you will want to have a small amount of back pressure in the system. some people think that a straight pipe is better but they are incorrect. and something else might want to be aware of. is that in some States they require a spark arrestor when you are on the trails.
Great job Chris. If it was rocks you were trying to climb I think it wouldn’t have looked back. The logs kept rolling keeping you from climbing. Thanks for the content.
Love the new gearing. Would love to see the radiator stay in the front.... I know extra pump.... but still, I really like it up the front. Make it work!!! So excited to see this thing moving under its own power, great work!
You sure made a great case for split sprockets when you went to gear it down @14:00. Looking good. Hopefully it's going to be a good one on the trails.
I believe that is a spark arrestor that you removed. Most parks require one so you dont catch the wooded areas on fire in the summertime. Might want to verify that is what it was.
Don’t move the radiator just add a pump for coolant fluid flow because if you move it to the back all your weight will be in the back which could cause it to flip back on steep hills you need to get a vehicle scale so you can see were your weight is at. On a 4x4 you want it even unlike a race car where you want most of the weight in the front to keep the cars nose down. You’ve gone this far you mite as well do it, right. Great job!
The incredible amount of articulation you can have with this chain driven rear axle is fantastic! Have you considered to run the chains inside the trailing arms to the rear wheels so that they are not as exposed? I think that could be a great improvement when climbing difficult obstacles. With the chains inside the trailings arm you could also cover them to totally protect the chains from dirt. To optimize even more, you could fully seal the trailing arms and run the chains inside in an oil bath, that would make them as protected, silent, low friction, low maintenance and long lived they can be.
This is pretty incredible build. Really cool looking too. I suggest flared fender parts. Maybe on future builds, for the rear drives if you keep using the jack shaft/chain final drive you could do tubbed arms? Instead of so much tube steel, use some channeled flat stock which is also structural with tube stock upper...not sure if what I'm saying makes any sense. Basically, thicker shee metal lowr part of the arm to help protect the chain? I don't do any of ths stuff, I work on my cars and vehicles but don't do any fabbing.
This is the best build vehicle by you until now. And yes for some added safety to the fuel tank and Engine add some extra roll cages to safe gaurd it incase if the vehicle topples over.
Quick tip: for joining large gauge wires you can use short bits of copper tubing. Apply heat directly to the tubing and melt in all the solder, cover with heat shrink, Bob's your uncle.
You should be able to tap vacuum off the engine to operate the four wheel drive. Also you could have air in your coolant system. Bleed the system from the highest point. If cap/fill is not at the highest point, add a bleeder valve.
Oh man, once this thing is done it's going to be sick! I think we'll need to see a mini-truck showdown between you and the Cars & Cameras mini-trophy-truck build.
Knowing that those chains are exposed to objects below them, this means that they need to have protection from them. Chris, that crawler need belly pans to protect them. I suggest that you put those plates as close to them as possible. In that way it will have the ground clearance that you designed it to have.
I was watching part 19 of this series, thinking it was the new one, moments before this dropped. The whole time im having dejavu thinking im sure you've done all this before, untill i realised at the end. I went back to your page and saw part 35.😂😂🤦🏿 btw defo install fenders i been meaning to comment a few videos ago, flare them out like wheel arches. ❤
I do believe you need more ground clearance underneath that machine. If you plan on crawling over rocks especially. Also need chain guards. Sturdy ones so that when that area gets hit by something it won't derail your chain keep up the good work. And have fun do it
I would recommend using an electric dual stage water pump. You can set the flow rate for stage 1 to be lower so the motor warms up faster and set stage 2 to run under operating temps using a 2 stage controller to trigger the phases with relays. Just make a smooth block off plate to replace the finned pump plate (if the electric pressure exceeds the stock flow rate it could cause issues) For the rear sprocket, mill a bash guard like they use on Mountain Bikes. :)
You can also wire up the ECU to the fan relay and have either the ECU or switch ground the relay and turn the fan on or if it has a thermostat you can do the same.. The ECU should kick it on around 220F.. If your anything like me and forget to turn the fan on it will come on automatically and save your motor.. Love the videos keep up the good work..
Also in in my opinion be way better to put the chain tensioners on the slack side of the chain.. Your asking a lot out of the tensioners being on the pulling side.. That's why everything you see that has the tensioner on the slack side takes way less abuse..
I enjoy watching your videos. An idea I had was to put a electric vacuum pump connected to a switch so that you could put it into four-wheel drive without you having to use the syringes.
I'm very impressed as always. Personally, I would have liked to see much more ground clearance and break over angle, but at least it looks like a smooth ride.
Don't forget you really only want to use solder on lugs never for connecting wires as they will break over time with movement but as we all know wiring sounds simple but its not always and only real concern is all that chain between stretching and slip/tolerance to me isn't great for an trophy style truck maybe future build do a right angle drive an a drive shaft update. Keep up the fun :)
I would just add that soldering is never used/recommended in high-current situations because of the possibility of heating up the wires and potentially melting the solder. Only mechanical types of connecting the wire like crimping are used.
EWP is the way to go not only to keep the radiator up front in the nice airflow but added benefits like after a big run being able to keep the coolant flowing after shut off
I think you should consider some mud flaps of some type to keep the front wheels from covering you as well as the rear. It's annoying in some sand rails I've been in.
Why this channel hasn’t got to a million subscribers is beyond my comprehension. The craftsmanship, designing and quality of work is amazing.
He very much deserves it too
For sure! he could afford a shop then, which he deserves.
Not everyone is into his content not hard to figure out.
It's the length of his vids that turn a lot of people away
@@hemidart7 truly
For the top speed:
hayabusa gear ratios:
- first gear: 2.615:1
- sixth gear: 1.043:1
overall gear ratios with Low, medium and high:
- first low: 44.455:1
- sixth low: 17.731:1
- sixth medium: 9.9:1
- sixth high: 6.26:1
looking at the dyno of a gen1 hayabusa engine we take the max hp rpm for calculating the max speeds -->9500 rpm (1/min)
speed = number of revolutions(1/h) * Wheel circumference (km) / final ratio
number of revolutions = 9500 1/min = 570000 1/h
wheel circumference = 255.35 cm = 0.00255 km
Low range, first gear @ 9500 rpm = 32,7km/h = 20.3 miles/h
Low range, sixth gear @ 9500 rpm = 82 km/h = 51 miles/h
Medium range, sixth gear @ 9500 rpm = 146.7 km/h = 91.1 miles/h
High range, sixth gear @ 9500 rpm = 232.3 km/h = 144.3 miles/h
you probably cant drive that fast because the engine wont have the power to reach 9500rpm in high 6th gear, but thats the theoretical speed.
You can use the formula to check and calculate other speeds at other engine rpms and compare it to real life
Please feel free to correct anything I might have done wrong.
so change gearing to double the ratio should be a thing to focus on crawling.
115 km/h or 70 mph highspeed should be more than enough for that kind of vehicle.
I think the only thing you got wrong was the max rpm. For that year, I think the redline is 12,500.
Holy crap! Respect to you for figuring that out.
Glad to have read this comment ! thank you for all those informations
@@ALWhiteAuthor I know it can rev higher, but with the weight of the vehicleand the higher wind resistance I figured I'd use the max hp rpm for a touch more realism
Everyone’s been so excited to see this thing done, it’s so sick and can’t wait to see it painted 🔥💯🇺🇸
@rather B welding You're cooling issue can be fixed with a vacuum bleeder for the coolant system, you have a massive air bubble and the pump can't move air. But if you vacuum the air out you can make the system solid with fluid.
For your coolant if you do not bleed all the air out of it, it will not cool properly. Try that before relocating the radiator, its the same thing with cars. you might need a coolant bleeder tool that hooks up to your air compressor to bleed the coolant.
I love how creative this guy is, it’s insane what a single person can do on their own 🔥💯🇺🇸
I just wanted to say that if you stick with the current cooling system and add an electric pump for more flow, you will get far better cooling than the rear mount radiator. Mainly because of the piping running to the front acting as a radiator also. You might actually run into a problem of too much cooling once it flows properly. Awesome build.
This build is so sick but I think it would be awesome to see the front end sit a bit higher in the air.
The Ford Ranger cv axles prevent that.
It all needs to be lifted...there's barely any ground clearance...
@@slackamacgaming6721 agreed time to dump the cv axles. It looks like a Corolla sitting so low.
I thought the same thing. It would be much more capable with a little more ground clearance
@@Ratkill9000 could do a custom or eBay portal drop kit
"All I have to do is disassemble the entire rear suspension..." No problem! 😉 Thanks for the videos! 👍👍
80mph (129kph) @10000 rpm with your 6:1 ratio. Worked out on first gen Hayabusa gearing..... Awesome work. Looking forward to it on the trails
Seems about right, do you think the engine has the power to rev that high and take it to 80?
@@aicilopon26 I,d say easily. If it's gen one thats 175hp or so. Would be a bit scary with all the chains wizzing around.....but awesome:)
@@SloMoGarage-un2vr To be fair he did say at the beginning that going with a chain driven system was basically an experiment to see if it was realistically viable. It should probably be shaft driven for strength and longevity imo, but it's interesting to see it with chains. I'd be a little freaked out riding in it though also 😆
am I missing something, I calculated the speeds in my other comment and my results differ a lot from yours
@@MinecraftLudwigLPyeah using easy numbers (10000 rpm and 1:1 crankshaft to sprocket [which is pretty close to 6th gear ratio]) I got 158 mph, which is a lot closer to what you got.
I'm watching this project since part one, and this is what I was expecting to see!! Congrats, that is really great to see this beast working!
You could probably fab something like what we use in kart racing to keep the sprockets and chains protected from running over curbs on track. Just a guard that is slightly larger in diameter than the sprocket with the chain on it that fits on both sides of the sprocket. Helps keep the chain on as guide but also protects the sprocket itself from being bent or damaged.
Once you run those mufflers for a while they'll get louder after the packing has time to break in. I can't wait to see you hit a trail with this. It's an absolute work of art dude.
It's badass. That you build these machines by eye is nothing short of astonishing.
Something you may want to do with the radiator/fan is provide an overrun so that the fan remains on for a minute or two after the engine is turned off. A lot of vehicles have this now as the engine/coolant continues to heat after the engine is off for a short while. Another cool & innovative build 👍
The only ones I have seen are 1. in an over-temp condition the fans will run after IGN shut-off (if over a specified engine temp) and 2. Turbo cars for turbo cooldown. That's it.
@@steveww07 Yep, that's exactly what they're for. To cool down an over temp situation. It's a simple temp sensor that turns the fan on/off when required. It causes the fan to stay on after the ignition is turned off until the system cools down. I understand, I could be wrong, it was developed to help prevent block cracks in alloy engines. Plus, it'd be one less thing to be mindful of when off roading - turning the fan on lol It's just a suggestion, not a point of contention.
What a hell of a machine.
You really did a great job.
And all by yourself.
SUPER!!!!!
Love the build. And you communicated the excitement of testing it out, I felt right there with you, nice!
Loving this build. So much technology involved.❤❤❤
Man that thing looks like a ton of fun. You do great work man.
the smile on your face says it all awesome build you should be proud of yourself
This thing is incredibly cool. Can't wait to see it finished!
Exchange the radiator with the fuel tank, this way you can cut some off of the long back end, and I still think you need to drop that chain tentioner to the lower chain in place of the upper chain you have now...
This channel growing fast I’m glad to be apart of it love the videos and your fabrication skills are are a skill of there own . Your content always delivers and can’t wait till the next upload keep them coming.
Looks great man! can't wait to see it in full action.
To watch you build this thing has been awesome and you did a really good job on it
Dude, your like a friggin mad scientist! Wow is that thing sweet just like everything you build. You sure are a smart fella and talented fabricator!👍🏼🤘🏼✌🏼
Thanks for the video. I have watched nearly all of your videos, and I have to admit you are a talented builder/fabricator. I just have one word to say in regards to your off-road vehicles: fenders. Dude when you finally take them off on trails you wind up getting so soaked and mud covered you look like you just fell in a big mud hole, instead of of just driving through one. Great stuff, keep em' coming.
This thing is so kick ass.. can’t wait for the full send
i really like your idea of putting two coolant temp sensors, going in and coming out of the engine, should give you a good idea of how well your radiator is working at different speeds right? definitely sounds better without the baffle but not too loud.
The low temperature on coolant into the engine verifies the radiator and pump is working right? Unless there's an air pocket in the pump and it's not pumping coolant at all.
Testing the air temperature coming off the radiator would varify if heat is being extracted from the engine.
I’m loving the craftsmanship
Food for thought I have thought about using fiberglass body parts for a truck like hood front fenders and bedside to make the trophy truck look
WOW!!! This one has came from a long ways Glad you did the gear swop, looks to be night and day difference. I think it’s time to take it to Windrock.
Cool. Always better to attack a rock going slow than have to slip the clutch and burn it out.
Congrats
Make it your own man, the gearing should be what you need not what other people want👍
As for the exhaust system, I worked in a muffler shop. and ultimately you will want the exhaust system to be free flowing. with as few sharp bends in the system as possible. but if you're wanting low end grunt and more torque. you will want to have a small amount of back pressure in the system. some people think that a straight pipe is better but they are incorrect. and something else might want to be aware of. is that in some States they require a spark arrestor when you are on the trails.
Dude it sounds FANTASTIC! Drive the thing!
Great job Chris. If it was rocks you were trying to climb I think it wouldn’t have looked back. The logs kept rolling keeping you from climbing. Thanks for the content.
Awesome build Chris. Your work ethic is awesome. I wouldn't believe you if you told me you built this by yourself in a shed if I didn't see it myself.
Freaking sweet build. Hitting the trails is gonna be fun.
Your awesome dude. And the trophy truck is so wicked. Turned out amazing. High quality build !!!!
Incredible build man. That's impressive as heck!
That voiceover sound quality is excellent.
Love the new gearing. Would love to see the radiator stay in the front.... I know extra pump.... but still, I really like it up the front. Make it work!!! So excited to see this thing moving under its own power, great work!
I can't wait to see you hit a trail with this. It's an absolute work of art dude.
Very nice climb 💯
Finally🎉 been waiting for this for a while now
You sure made a great case for split sprockets when you went to gear it down @14:00. Looking good. Hopefully it's going to be a good one on the trails.
Really impressed with the capabilities of it. I want to build one.
This is the coolest buggy that you've built so far!
Still a big fan of your work. Keep building my brother
Love the project! Always enjoy your update vids.
Great job man! I can' wait to see final product
Awesome engineering through and through.
I believe that is a spark arrestor that you removed. Most parks require one so you dont catch the wooded areas on fire in the summertime. Might want to verify that is what it was.
Don’t move the radiator just add a pump for coolant fluid flow because if you move it to the back all your weight will be in the back which could cause it to flip back on steep hills you need to get a vehicle scale so you can see were your weight is at. On a 4x4 you want it even unlike a race car where you want most of the weight in the front to keep the cars nose down. You’ve gone this far you mite as well do it, right. Great job!
The incredible amount of articulation you can have with this chain driven rear axle is fantastic! Have you considered to run the chains inside the trailing arms to the rear wheels so that they are not as exposed? I think that could be a great improvement when climbing difficult obstacles.
With the chains inside the trailings arm you could also cover them to totally protect the chains from dirt. To optimize even more, you could fully seal the trailing arms and run the chains inside in an oil bath, that would make them as protected, silent, low friction, low maintenance and long lived they can be.
This is pretty incredible build. Really cool looking too. I suggest flared fender parts. Maybe on future builds, for the rear drives if you keep using the jack shaft/chain final drive you could do tubbed arms? Instead of so much tube steel, use some channeled flat stock which is also structural with tube stock upper...not sure if what I'm saying makes any sense. Basically, thicker shee metal lowr part of the arm to help protect the chain? I don't do any of ths stuff, I work on my cars and vehicles but don't do any fabbing.
I’ve been here since the beginning, less than 10k subs it’s insane to see how far these projects have come along!
As long as your going to be thinking anyway, think big.
This is the best build vehicle by you until now. And yes for some added safety to the fuel tank and Engine add some extra roll cages to safe gaurd it incase if the vehicle topples over.
Making sprocket side guards will help keep shain from popping and keep aligned.
What a beast mate…well done!…greetings from the UK.
Quick tip: for joining large gauge wires you can use short bits of copper tubing. Apply heat directly to the tubing and melt in all the solder, cover with heat shrink, Bob's your uncle.
Can’t wait for this to be done, also can’t wait to see what you come up with next
Great job!! Chain guards on sprockets
copper tubing for crimp or solder wire barrels. Get a ft' or so of several sizes and it's mighty handy at times.You're welcome.
This makes me want a full scale Tamiya -Dark Impact. Even more! (comment meant for the CBR reverse trike vid)
It was a really good Monday for being a Saturday.
That’s got to make you feel good all that work and you made it to the TOP of the fire wood ✌️🤭
You should be able to tap vacuum off the engine to operate the four wheel drive. Also you could have air in your coolant system. Bleed the system from the highest point. If cap/fill is not at the highest point, add a bleeder valve.
Oh man, once this thing is done it's going to be sick! I think we'll need to see a mini-truck showdown between you and the Cars & Cameras mini-trophy-truck build.
I always come to watch this channel. Greetings from Indonesia ❤❤❤
Looking great Chris! I think you have to protect the chain and sprockets in the back, before you drive it off road. 😁👍🏼😁👍🏼
Need to look into a chain guide, like on a banshee swing arm
Knowing that those chains are exposed to objects below them, this means that they need to have protection from them. Chris, that crawler need belly pans to protect them. I suggest that you put those plates as close to them as possible. In that way it will have the ground clearance that you designed it to have.
He knows what he's doing
awesome,i think i heard that little beast from my house. i still have some super high pressure 5/16th fuel hose if you need it.
Молодец,хорошая работа,поздравляю. У тебя все получилось,интересно было смотреть!!!
Great build! Your best yet. Now all you gotta do is keep dirt out of this engine 😁
I was watching part 19 of this series, thinking it was the new one, moments before this dropped. The whole time im having dejavu thinking im sure you've done all this before, untill i realised at the end. I went back to your page and saw part 35.😂😂🤦🏿 btw defo install fenders i been meaning to comment a few videos ago, flare them out like wheel arches. ❤
For the first real test it seems to have done quite well in my opinion.
I do believe you need more ground clearance underneath that machine. If you plan on crawling over rocks especially. Also need chain guards. Sturdy ones so that when that area gets hit by something it won't derail your chain keep up the good work. And have fun do it
I would recommend using an electric dual stage water pump. You can set the flow rate for stage 1 to be lower so the motor warms up faster and set stage 2 to run under operating temps using a 2 stage controller to trigger the phases with relays. Just make a smooth block off plate to replace the finned pump plate (if the electric pressure exceeds the stock flow rate it could cause issues) For the rear sprocket, mill a bash guard like they use on Mountain Bikes. :)
This guy is the epitome of American craftsmanship and ingenuity. What will he build next?!
You can also wire up the ECU to the fan relay and have either the ECU or switch ground the relay and turn the fan on or if it has a thermostat you can do the same.. The ECU should kick it on around 220F.. If your anything like me and forget to turn the fan on it will come on automatically and save your motor.. Love the videos keep up the good work..
Also in in my opinion be way better to put the chain tensioners on the slack side of the chain.. Your asking a lot out of the tensioners being on the pulling side.. That's why everything you see that has the tensioner on the slack side takes way less abuse..
Put chain adjuster on the bottom
I enjoy watching your videos. An idea I had was to put a electric vacuum pump connected to a switch so that you could put it into four-wheel drive without you having to use the syringes.
Oh Boy! Hope to see you at Windrock some day, its a 500 mile trip for me so chances are probably slim😅☮️
It's amazing things you build
I agree with you, low low range
That thing definitely needs more ground clearance.
I'm very impressed as always. Personally, I would have liked to see much more ground clearance and break over angle, but at least it looks like a smooth ride.
Don't forget you really only want to use solder on lugs never for connecting wires as they will break over time with movement but as we all know wiring sounds simple but its not always and only real concern is all that chain between stretching and slip/tolerance to me isn't great for an trophy style truck maybe future build do a right angle drive an a drive shaft update.
Keep up the fun :)
I would just add that soldering is never used/recommended in high-current situations because of the possibility of heating up the wires and potentially melting the solder. Only mechanical types of connecting the wire like crimping are used.
EWP is the way to go not only to keep the radiator up front in the nice airflow but added benefits like after a big run being able to keep the coolant flowing after shut off
I like too see a real off road test ... which may take a crew too film. It is a fantastic build .
I think you should consider some mud flaps of some type to keep the front wheels from covering you as well as the rear. It's annoying in some sand rails I've been in.
Love how much work you can do in just one video 💪💯🔥
glad to see yo happy bro hard works pad off
Your truck is really good. Nice job!
Darn thing sounds really good
You should street legal it things sick good work man, needs a bit more height