I actually trained to be a model in a very good model school here in my country in the 2000s, when being a model was a dream job, but thankfully I never got anywhere with it (my parents weren't willing to let me do unpaid jobs to "build my portfolio"). A few years later I met a friend that actually was an international model during that time and she told me all sorts of horror stories that were very common on the industry and to this day she still has deep psychological scars and frequently is on meds because of all the trauma being a model caused her, and I thank whoever is up there that I didn't experience that myself.
Oh, yes, I am witness to that as well. At that time we had a lot of cases when local model agencies would support and promote exceptionally beautiful girls, but everyone else would be softly pushed to work at different private events where guests would have I'd say *coughs* very different ideas about what model is supposed to do. For some time modeling had a very bad rep.
I wanna see cool fashion shows again! I know the argument of “it’s to show off the clothes and not the model” and I suppose it’s valid but to me, drama makes the clothes shine so much brighter x
It's crazy how every show is trying to impress with staging/background/music/concept design novelties but then the models all walk and emote the same 😭
This! Or just in a while some shows that really makes you wonder how you would look in one of those outfits. For example I really like browsing clothes on Taobao because the models make the dresses look really cute and makes me think how pretty and cute I would look like in one of those dresses. The big fashion shows don't do that for me 😅
@@phirion6341 It's because they're meant to be essentially living hangars for the clothes they're showing off. I'm actually serious here and not just saying this.
I swear they think we have absolutely zero creativity to be able to envision ourselves in clothes worn by someone with sass or personality. Me personally, I want to envision myself with spunk or as a bad ass bitch, if you will. Can't do that with someone who looks miserable on the runway.
As someone who was a teen in 1998 the popular style was very…classy. Solid colors, fitted v-necks, “flattering” cuts and colors, neutral but darker makeup, pretty but grown up. The style immediately after was very bright, flippant, silly, party-ish (think early 00s hair flip, lacy tanks, pastels).
I was 16/17 in 98 and I was wearing my Levi silvertabs, navy gap hoodie, and vintage Ruth bowling shirt from Sunset Bowl in York, Nebraska. 😂 I loved my just below waist wide bootcut CK jeans, Yink Drink Dr Seuss baby tee and Candies red leather boots. I wore my Express fitted tops, matching cord jumper dresses and thigh highs with Candies wooden clog heels. I also enjoyed going full Gap with my fave OD green bodysuit, flat front khakis,a matching scarf (all from gap) tied on my neck, and combat style boots. One time, I felt particularly awesome and wore my mom's 70s pink polyester bellbottoms and matching pink and grey cropped button up sweater that my dad bought her while they were dating. I didn't have a single style. I wore whatever the heck I liked! I loved the 90s.
@@MrsBrit1 So stylish! So experimental! I'm a wee bit younger so I didn't really get to experiment with 90s fashion at the time - I was just a kid - but I am now thoroughly enjoying it. Somehow my personal style is either 1300s, 1890s, 1950s or 1990s. Medieval dress one day, bowling shirt and mom jeans the next, my mum's vintage clothes the 3rd day, my gran's the 4th, late Victorian walking suit the 5th.
During the 1990s I was working toward developing a career in business administration. Every year around November I bought my business attire for the year. Evan Piccone suits were my favorites: Expensive with wonderful fit. My favorite shoes were a pair of wine leather Candies peep-toed shoes with stacked leather heels. Sueded silk was big, I had a black suit jacket with matching cullottes (baggy long shorts, really) that I wore with a white silk shell and wide leather belt. I kept a few pieces from my 1990s wardrobe as reference garments, every one of them could be worn today and not appear dated.
About the spectators being under-dressed by today's standards, it was considered rude to outdress the show. So you might see some wealthy people there, but they're in rather plain clothing to be respectful. And, honestly, I prefer that to having attention hogs like the Kim Kardashian and other so-called "influencers" taking up more of the visual space of a show. It's hard to have a show that's only about your current designs when someone shows up in a totally different piece that takes up a ton of room AND they're seated in the front row. I've seen some designers be very diplomatic, but I wish they would have and enforce a dress code again. In the 80s, the runway was closer to the old style of runway, where the audience used to interact with the models to see the designs up close. Sometimes they would even ask the models if they were comfortable, or liked the color! The 90's saw designers moving the models away from the audience (some of that due to serious bad behavior, often on the part of male spectators), but still feigning that sense of personal interaction. A lot of these shows featured acting to have the audience feel like they were watching a movie or television show, removing the personal element but keeping it familiar. Shows just left the personal behind as more journalists had access to high quality digital cameras and people could see all the detail of a piece from the comfort of a website. I honestly hope that models having more joy in a show comes back. It's off-putting to see all these blank faces (and a lot of people look menacing with a blank face) marching up and down a runway- many of them devoid of even a signature walk. There's a lot of nastiness still present in the fashion industry, and that includes treating models like coat hangers instead of people.
Kylie Jenner in the lion head moment was honestly disrespectful to the show since the dress she wore was the show's closing look they could've left that a surprise have given it to her later
I was just telling my husband that! Like why are people using fashion shows to be seen? That's definitely not the point of a fashion show. I'd say it's comparable to trying to outsing the opera singer in an opera house.
I used to work in a wholesale showroom at the Los Angeles Apparel Mart (oh my goodness... the clothes we bought off the sample racks). Many of the buyers who came in for a private viewing of current collections were the conservatively dressed people sitting in the front rows of the runway shows. 😉
I was just saying similar in another comment. Designers wanted blank clones as models in the 2000’s, which was a really bad choice that killed much interest in the industry. Then instead of going back to super models, they went with the terrible decision to bring in tacky influencers, which was so wrong. They even bring small children or pets for photo ops. They’re all so desperate for attention. It’s such a turn off.
He did a lot of the concept design in addition to the fashion and it gives the movie such a different, timeless vibe. I live it so much. Nothing else looks like it.
Galliano for Dior seemed to be the last time there was some significant beauty and theatre in fashion. I see Schiaparelli attempting a revival at least clothing wise (not set wise)...but things haven't been the same since we lost Lee McQueen. My favorite right now is Guo Pei though. She brings it every show.
There will never be another McQueen! 😢 I went to an exhibit of his work back in December, and I'll never forget it. Being able to look at his designs up close was absolutely incredible. I nearly cried in public several times while touring it, but luckily I had my sunnies with me. 😅
Runway fashion low-key died with Gianni Versace. Old designs used to be something that makes a regular person want to save up to buy it, or even replicate the pattern/silhouette by making it yourself. I don't think many regular people are saving up to buy these hideous looking collections that designers put out nowadays. Where would you even wear them to? I still appreciate the designers that make wearable pretty clothes today, but usually, they're not that popular
Well, one can always wear one's Balenciaga gimp mask when one appears on conspiracy podcasts to espouse one's love for Hitler. You know... Normal people stuff.
Most collections will have a good blend of wearable and statement pieces. Even Schiaparelli - who at their core are a very surrealist fashion house - make gorgeous wearable pieces. I've been following most major houses in recent years and have found at least a couple of outfits I would wear in each of them. And as someone who makes her own clothing sometimes, I am definitely inspired by their work.
"Why would you say something so contraversial yet so brave?" or whatever the saying is😂 I still watch Gianni's shows, nothing wrong per say with what's happening with Versace now. I'll still glance at the screen during runway shows from the 2020s / late 2010s ,however, 1988-1998 shows kept me LOOKING at my screen. My faves from that era being Prada, some Calvin Klein, Dior, Versace and some Chanel (especially when Karl Lagerfield first hopped on because he was pushing for press and man were they talked about lol). Ralph Lauren shows were also quite relaxing (still are but like I said the 90s pieces keep me glued to the screen while I crochet). So while I don't ✨hate✨ anything now, maybe the late 80s / 90s were just more whimsical? Gianni's pieces were GORGEOUS though, his style was romantic even when it was daring or toe-ing the line of "edge-y" lol. All this gushing is brought to you by fashion documentaries and runway shows being available on UA-cam for me to watch back to back for months ... No I do not know what my next fixation will be 😅
@Gugunet26 I recently saw a video of a model struggling to walk with a huge coat that was probably 200 lbs. The coat was so ugly, and the poor girl gave up on it in the middle of her walk. Why is that even a thing?
Damn, I miss UA-cam tag chains, because more than anything right now I want to see HauteLeMode and Mina Le each make their own video about their favorite runway year 🥺 and we could have such a nice time together across all the comment sections
I recently followed a 1990s fashion photo tumblr and I'm seeing so many iconic designs from designers I've never even heard of. I mean it's not all amazing, there was still a lot of blah, mostly in RTW, but the models all seemed so iconic and had actual personalities where now that seems discouraged for the reasons named in this video.
its like, for 14 minutes i care. and it even makes me think "wow these fashions are really pretty i should go learn more" but do i ever!? no!!! lmao maybe one day i will but for now meme mom can educate me
Back in the late 90s, I was (10 yo at the time) accidentally tuned in Fashion TV at my friend's house which was also a cafe. What I saw first thing was a butt-naked male model with one black long coat holding his junk walking confidently on the runway. Everyone at the cafe were like WTF?! and laughed so hard. My friend and I are still bringing this dude up during our conversations to this day. lol
Honestly, I almost entirely agree - with the minor change that my 'year' would probably be around 1990-1992 because that's when Naoko Takeuchi (author of Sailor Moon) did her research and pulled some ICONIC looks from the runways to add to her manga. But I am biased because... Sailor Moon. For those interested, Princess Serenity's iconic dress is actually called the Palladio dress, designed by Gianfranco Ferre for Dior in 1992.
Yes! As a kid I'd watch a lot of TV, and fashion shows were one of the things that were always running on one of the few channels we had back then. I'd actually love watching them, all the beautiful women... Nowadays there's that dedicated fashion channel (Fashion TV?) that mostly shows off modern stuff and occasionally clips from fashion shows. It's so boring. But they used to have a 90's segment - at 4 in the morning, for some reason - and the difference was just so noticable! I could watch those 90's segments forever. Then they went and removed the segment entirely. 😠
I know Karolina is younger, but in 1998, American cable tv was broadcasting both full fashion shows and "fashion show recap" compilations to millions of viewers. (Wikipedia tells me this was true for Poland and many other countries as well.) It was the golden period of dedicated cable channels still broadcasting special interest content, and just before the internet killed the fashion mag. You could also walk into a store, even in a small town, and see probably 20 linear feet of fashion magazines. This blows my mind! I'm biased because, to me, it was iconic because of the age I was when it was all happening. I recall there was a very big sense that the *models* were iconic, but the fashions were not seen as lasting or important. 1998 was still reacting to (or rebelling against) grunge and those weird oversized suit lewks were part of the zoot suit/swing revival.
My mum was in the fashion industry in New York in the 90s, around this time, working with Anna Sui in her design studio. I was talking about this video to her, and she’s started telling me all about what the scene was like back then, such as with her celebrity/supermodel boutique in Anna Sui’s design studio, or what the parties or runway shows were like in person, which is actually really interesting. She has a lot of cool stories from back then, such as that time with Kate Moss and a monkey, or the Versace party where she met RuPaul.
There is currently an exhibition at the Palais Galliera in Paris called "1997 Fashion Big Bang" that states exaclty the same thing, they even say that 1997 can be considered as the beggining of 21st century fashion. So your point is museum curators approuved !
Did you know there is an exhibition on that topic in the Paris Fashion Museum ? It’s called « 1997 Fashion Big bang » and it explores exactly that ! If it’s coincidence, it’s really surprising ! 😂
I absolutely love you… As an almost 60 year old who loves fashion shows, this was absolutely fascinating. Thank you for all of your work and extraordinary commentary!❤🎉
This is kinda how i feel about 1898-1899 fashion, Worth really put his ass off on those who'd be some of his last designs, maybe you should talk how fashion repeats itself every 100 years... for example 1780-1880-1980s all had curly hair, 1510-1810-1910-2010 all kinda had that fluffy-minimalistic high waisted silhouette (except of course 2010s changed since most women wear jeans)
I mean, recently 80s fashion came up again, which itself was a redo of 40s fashion. Cycles are much shorter nowadays, and it's no longer a 'reliable' 100 years. The high-waisted look you're referencing for the 2010s is actually a redo of the 1960s - which also did the whole babydoll thing. So that ends up being a 50 year cycle instead of 100. But then the 70s are everywhere in stores nowadays - which would match a 50y cycle IF the 00s wouldn't also have been all about the paisley and flared jeans - so the cycle has now shrunk to 20. I love seeing discussions on the cyclical nature of fashion and I love how mind-blowing it can be to track down the origins of some style or another.
@@beckstheimpatient4135 Rn its the 80s, 90s does 70s, 60s, y2k, and 2013 tumblr girl, or boho. A modern take on all of them, and all of them were taking from something. It’s real crazy to see every years inspo. I really see 80s coming back, but people are still saying ew tacky whilst unknowingly wearing an 80s inspired outfit.
@@KeilaBevins Yeah, these past few years have been quite insane in fashion. But the variety we have at our disposal is fantastic - never has a greater variety of clothing been available like this. Every body type can find something and still be fashionable.
Oooh my Fashion TV moments are coming back to my mind😭😭 I vividly remember coming home from shopping, turning FTV on and putting on a whole ass fashion show to my dad😭
For more structured dramatic fashion shows without being too modern artish, I have been watching shows from Chinese brand heaven gaia. It seems like a nice balance between Chinese traditional dress with western formal wear silouettes. (disclaimer being extent to my knowledge is asian dramas I watched growing up) Plus I just love me some light flowy fabrics, pleats, and different colors without going full on neon.
Oooh 1998! I was a senior taking a fashion illustration class and got my first Vogue subscription. IT. WAS. INCREDIBLE. The construction. The art. The hype. We also had Fashion Television and you could watch all of the shows.
Thank you for this! Been seeing yours and others videos on the body becoming the fashion, and I really feel this happened in the mid to late 90s. In the 80s it was still about color and fabrics and clothing shape, but by the end of the 90s, it really became about the body itself, midriffs, low cuts, short skirts that you had to be a specific thin to wear. Fascinating to see how we re-assess these looks!
I’m probably older than you and very much disagree that the body became part of fashion only in the nineties. At least in the 20th century, the body and various shapes was always part of fashion. Speaking especially of high fashion just in the eighties, as opposed to what the average person wore, there was a big influence of the different shape that had become popular. Skin tight, Lycra looks were big. Open plunging backs. Tiny tight minis. Cleavage. A big trend was giant garments that could reveal various toned, bare parts. Models like Cindy Crawford, who was fashionably athletic and big, were always in magazines showing off bronzed bodies in slick cloths. What most think of as 80s, was not close to high fashion.
It was a very special period in time overall. The depression had ended, technology was progressing in leaps and became accessible for more and more people, values were turning more liberal, the hypothetical end of the world at millennium was still ahead, youth culture was thriving... It is not just fashion which peaked. Many iconic movies, video games, music and other products of pop culture were also made at that time.
she's mentioned she can't spoil "the reveal" so i think its just that editing everything takes longer than the renovation itself since she is filming as she goes and etc. we'll get a reveal just gotta be more patient! i'm also really excited to see the final product!!
I have to say, “I don’t care” when it comes to fashion. But, I do enjoy watching Karolina be passionate about fashion, regardless of the decade or century. I’m so glad to see her be true to herself.
The 1920s/30s Dior and 1930s Galliano inspired shows... be still, my heart! But yes, the shows were SHOWS. Sigh. Very enjoyable video, Ms. K. Thank you!
I grew up in the 80s and the 90s were such a relief to me. My tastes were always more classic/sleek and the 80s was just a blur of puffs, ruffles, and shoulder pads. I don’t remember when I started cutting the shoulder pads out of everything but at some point, I just lost my patience. It’s interesting to hear the perspective of someone more fashion attuned and you get talk about what made the late 90s different and special. A lot of those looks are themselves “classic” now.
I watched Mugler’s 1995 show SO MANY TIMES during lockdown! It’s beautiful!! 😍 If the house has models like Dominique Jackson right now, they need to bring back those looks!
While I am not an expert, I think there are plenty of reasons why fashion was soo good in the 90s. Fashion shows themselves became popular, the increased availability of the Internet and satellite television outside the United States made fashion more globalized, ESPECIALLY during late 90s. So it makes sense that it was the best when it was at the peak of its popularity for the first time. I can imagine it was also harder for designers to come up with new ideas after something like that. While I agree that the strong "theatre act" aspect of shows died, you can still find great fashion that can be qualified as art statements. Gucci with the twin reveal, Iris van Herpen and her designs that are very iconic already, Dior's tarot campaign were models acted as well, Dilara Findikoglu making contemporary womenswear depicting social commentary on feminism. Good fashion is still out there, but 1998 holds a special place, a gold medal or something idk
In the 10s decade, there was a huge come back of 80s elements in style and now we see 90s appreciation raising. The 30s year rule is as strong as ever.
@@Neonrain08 I think it depends on the countries a lot as well. In addition to nowdays, back then the fashion trends took even years to catch up around the globe, so we see different elements of the time even in their come backs. I agree with you, though. Those decades are somewhat special in a way.
@@Neonrain08The 2000s had some good styles!! Yes some were v ugly but looking back on pictures there were really cute non tiktok y2k clothes that just scream fun and look good
I do agree quite a bit, but I wish to give some credits to f/w 2005-2006. So many beautiful collections. That whole season was dark romantic, elegant, extra, elaborate and fashionable. Fantastic haute couture by Christian Lacroix, Christian Dior, Schrerrer, Givency, JP Gaultier, George Chakra, Franck Sorbier and many more, too many to mention. In other years I have seen many individually beautiful and sometimes epic collections ^^ But yeah, 1998 was a great fashion year (& 90s as era), thank you for the video ^^
Haven't watched this all yet, but the answer to the title is "no"-- but only because Iris Van Herpen has been single-handedly carrying the high fashion world on her back (we have no choice but to stan). Check out "Sensory Seas" or "Earthrise".
When it comes to Galliano, you can’t deny his past and problems, and not being blind by his art and forget how he was (or is), but no one, and I mean NO ONE, can’t deny that his era at Dior is untouchable. Few couturiers nowadays match his levels, and most of the ones that do, are retired or in a better life (Lee McQueen and Thierry). I still go back to his show from time to time, and even watch the documentaries on how a single piece was created. Simply put, Galliano is THE couturier of this century.
Hello! I'm a fashion illiterate, and I would really like to know what's wrong with designers getting inspiration from other cultures. Isn't it a good sign that the designer actually appreciates the culture and uses it for their work? Wouldn't using only inspiration from Western cultures be the Eurocentrism that everyone seems to be scared of these days?
@@sambilek72 when it comes to fashion, at least the way that I see it, more times than not, designers use other cultures a a gimmick. Yes, they bring awareness to the vast and richness of our world and how many societies, cultures and beauty has developed in centuries along side each other. But at the same time, most designer just go to the basic, meaning, they do little to no research as to why X, Y or Z has a cultural significance and most go the cliche route. Add to that, 80-90% of the models de use, when doing a collection inspired by non western cultures, are of western descent, mostly American (the continent), or European, and if they truly wanted to highlight a cultural influence, they would use models of that culture as a majority or more prominently. Add to all that, the religious and political significance of some styles and why it shouldn’t be used lightly, for fashion, and it gives another whole layer of problems. And for those who read this, once again, this is me trying to summarize the many problems that using other cultures in fashion, when you’re not from that culture, could bring in a personal opinion. Hope this helps you Sam.
Eh, Worth is amazing but overrated. There were many amazing designers after the house's peak under Charles and Jean-Philippe - especially if you consider that Worth worked on very clear templates and shapes. They decorated beautifully, but didn't innovate silhouette - they worked within the very specific shapes of the era - after all, they're well known for having 'pieces' they could assemble together to make semi-custom dresses. They're exquisite pieces, but the house gets quite easily overshadowed by the amazing advances made by people like Poiret, Fortuny, or Vionnet.
Also Karolina, it's interesting that the major American fashion magazines in the 1990s had the most beautiful and uncluttered covers since the 1950s. By the aughts, the ugly overly wordy, truly badly designed covers from the 70s and 80s were back again, but not so much emphasis on the full face shot. And keep in mind that there was a major shift in culture around 1989 to the beginning of the 90s. The bad synth-pop of 80s was out and the darker, more intense music of the of the early 90s scenes was in. The fashion world didn't really know what to do with it. "Grunge fashions" were a total oxymoron. But nevertheless from the classic supermodels of the early decade to the waifs of the later decade, and the very fact that we actually knew the names of the models, all connected to this cultural moment. Later the fashionistas would move towards using celebrities more. The word supermodel was eventually debased in public parlance to simple mean any well paid model, regardless of the fact that by mid-way through the 00s most people couldn't name a young well known model. But the 90s was certainly an interesting time for culture, before the teen culture arising at the end of the decade, and the manipulated idol worship of celebrities (I'm looking at you Britney.) totally swamped the boat.
I think there's something special about the turn of the millenium - i was born in 1999 but in east europe so our developement was like 10 years late - so i cought up the late 90s aesthetics and tbh i think what hooks us in is the "hopeful futuristic" camp - the 90s showed us
Love to see your appreciation for the runway models. Those models had to do ALL the things. And the front row crowds, wow, not a thirsty celebrity in the place!
Galliano was and is brilliant designer.. even though our thoughts about other things are not in line. :) late 90s/millenium was really good time in fashion, but of course I might be a little bit sentimental because that was my late teens and early 20s :D Good times
I graduated in 1998 and loved studying fashion while in high school thanks to magazines like Seventeen and Vogue. I drew many fashion sketches at the time. It's so validating to have someone else recognize this period in fashion, I've always thought a lot of it was special. There were a lot of classic lines and interesting looks (like black paired with pastels) that I still love. ❤
I Wonder what you’d think about Iris Van Herpen’s “Sensory Seas.” I really like what she does in general, but this was so different from anything I’ve seen and so evocative.
The 1990's as a whole were a vibe. Something happened in 1999 that just made everyone give up - good TV programming, good fashion, good music, etc. I wonder if the nosedive in fashion presentation could also be traced back to the Writers' Strike? 🤔
Palais Galliera in Paris actually has an exhibition called "1997 FASHION BIG BANG" now and there you can see some of the very iconic creations. So what you Karolina is talking about is very on point. It's very interesting to hear more about the background to how this came to be such iconic years.
As a 90s preteen, I spend so many Saturdays and Sundays watching FashionTelevision with Jeannie Baker that was just all fashion shows. I have so much nostalgia for this over the top and yet bizarrely wearable era.
1998 was not one or two designer having the best collection it was many designers giving good fuckin collection that it is hard to choose the best and honestly agree but i do think interactive fashion shows are going to come back? because i see a lot of hype around it recently
I have watched you since WAY back now (my husband died week before last and I’ve been reminiscing) him and I, being a gay couple… we sorta turned the UA-camrs that we constantly watched our family because you all were there with through so much … and I find myself wanting to say something only realizing you have no idea who we are …. So now I’m sitting here on my birthday and I needed something to occupy my mind so I decided to write this anyhow to let you know that John suddenly died and Joey is trying to manage… thanks for all of your hard work and amazing times you spent entertaining us!
I love your wallpaper. More than that, though, is how much I love the color pallet of your wall, shirt color, lip color, and skin tone. The whole aesthetic is very pleasing.
I liked the slip dress...which was actually a dress. Taking the trend and literally just wearing a (fairly transparent) slip doesn't quite do it for me
I haven't watched the video yet and I FEEL SO SEEN! I tried talking to my friends about the Dior 1998 Spring collection, but they don't see the appeal that I do 😩
I started watching you a long time ago, and I remember you saying that you didn’t do ads or were contemplating doing ads. I am really happy you are getting your bag! I love you content. You deserve it.
That's funny because in Paris there is an exhibition dedicated to the year 1997, and how it revolutionize fashion ! I strongly suggest you go and visit it if you can
The late '90s, when supermodels ruled the world, the VH1 Fashion Awards were a thing, and, most important of all, the Delia's catalog. Seriously though, Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier 1998 collections are the peak of fashion for me
Do you, or anyone, remember the name of another catalog that was basically just like Delias? It’s making me crazy because I can’t remember. I bought stuff from both. They looked a lot alike. Delias was a bit more flowers and quirky font on every page. But the clothes and prices were similar.
Wo wo woow the show✨ must come back!! Not only is more fun for everybody but it could create a different performance art in between modelling and acting and help to create a framing narrative that just makes everything better. The way it works right now I feel is a bit boring and sometimes hard to keep up? Like many times clothes look like variations on a theme and models just blur into each other.
How interesting. I wasn't paying direct attention to fashion by that point, but the real stars made it into mainstream media too. Now I think you have to search for the innovative designers.
this is so random, but your main point about shows not being this dramatic anymore reminded me of the fashion shows in two movies I love: White Chicks and Head Over Heels. they both have a fashion show that happens to be extra dramatic because of plot reasons and everyone praises the accidentally dramatic show in a way that fits very, very well with your general essay goal here 😂
As a teenager in the 90s I remember reading Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, being amazed by watching the runway shows on Fashion TV and wishing I could afford couture! Used to buy from opshops and try (try and fail mostly) and put outfits together along with sewing, inspired by Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, etc I don't think current runway shows or fashion will ever get to the height of the late 80's but am sure there are some amazing innovative designers out there to revive the theatrics of it! It's a pity celebrities and reality tv 'stars' have completely infiltrated fashion and taken away that magic, the 90s supermodels are impossible to top imho, so so many of the models now are boring and nepo kids. Forgot to add, 90s music like grunge and other alternative music really seemed to influence fashion too, lots of rock stars dating/hanging out with models 😁 The runway crowd were there to see the star of the show (the clothing) not to be the main spectacle...now it's the opposite.
I appreciate that you highlight both sides of the 90's fashion culture. There were some high fashion that were indeed exquisite, mostly due to referencing earlier historical eras like the 30's and 40's, but there was also that 90's - and I'll argue this was the bigger part of it - that was simply the origin of our own aesthetically uninteresting, lack of silouette, ugly, anemic and worn out present.
I am hopeful though for the future (as long as we don’t fall into fascism and war). The younger generation just hitting their 20s seems to actually be doing some original, interesting things like I haven’t seen for 20 years. In the past year I really see creativity going on in the streets and signs high fashion is becoming interesting again, slowly.
I have been trying to articulate this exact thing for years now and could never figure out how to explain the shift in haute couture that I saw. You nailed it. I love too that you showed how derivative 80’s fashion was. The 1940’s definitely contributed to some trends along with the 1890’s-1900’s Edwardian and Gibson girl aesthetic.
Get out my head 😂 I’ve been scouring images of a 98’ Dolce and Gabanna show! And I got caught up in other shows from 98 so good. Allegedly the coat Madonna is wearing on her ROL (released in 1998) album is D&G and I’m obsessed! Looks like a ruched vinyl trench with a silk lining, so f@cking sick
The 90s was when fast fashion and really cheap out sourced clothing came on the market so there was a lot of competition happening. Most of the people in the front rows were manufacturers representatives trying to figure out what they could use to sell the next season in a cheap simplified version.
@@froggy9191 it started long before that, it just accelerated then due to trade agreements that broke down tarrifs. In the 60s a cheap plain dress cost me about $25. That was a week of groceries for 2 people plus spending money for a dinner out and some lunch and bus fare. In the 90s you could get a similar dress for ... $25. And in the 90s that would not get you a week of groceries for 2.
I have to laugh a little cause, while completely unrelated, 1998 is also broadly considered to be the greatest year in video games. Seems like a good year.
I Loved this video so much! It would be kinda fun for you to pick like an iconic year in fashion for every decade when fashion shows were a thing recorded!
In Context of that video I highly recommend the 90's fashion exhibition they have atm at the fashion museum Palais Galliera in Paris. It explains what happened this year's and what impact it had. Also the "soundtrack" on Spotify is just perfect.
Just visited palais galleria museum with their exhibit all about 1997 and why it was so impactful in fashion. I think it was really the 1996 - 1999 collections that changed things.
I remember when I was in 6th grade I saw for the first time a Vogue Magazine and I was stunned by 1998 Galliano collection. I didn't knew anything about fashion then ,but I was mesmerised by it. While I loved everything about that period and the dichotomy that came with it between opulance and glamour vs minimalism and conceptualism I'm on the later side of the coin. It was tho such a good introduction to fashion world and a truly iconic period. The 90's brought everything.
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When will you post a house update 😭😭😭
Day 1 of asking you to do a Tired interview with Polish Composers.
Get that dough
I actually trained to be a model in a very good model school here in my country in the 2000s, when being a model was a dream job, but thankfully I never got anywhere with it (my parents weren't willing to let me do unpaid jobs to "build my portfolio"). A few years later I met a friend that actually was an international model during that time and she told me all sorts of horror stories that were very common on the industry and to this day she still has deep psychological scars and frequently is on meds because of all the trauma being a model caused her, and I thank whoever is up there that I didn't experience that myself.
That's so scary :'(
Oh, yes, I am witness to that as well. At that time we had a lot of cases when local model agencies would support and promote exceptionally beautiful girls, but everyone else would be softly pushed to work at different private events where guests would have I'd say *coughs* very different ideas about what model is supposed to do. For some time modeling had a very bad rep.
there need to be more parents like yours!
@@aftengdur0 this is still the case except it's nepo babies vs everyone else
Good for your parents.
I wanna see cool fashion shows again! I know the argument of “it’s to show off the clothes and not the model” and I suppose it’s valid but to me, drama makes the clothes shine so much brighter x
It's crazy how every show is trying to impress with staging/background/music/concept design novelties but then the models all walk and emote the same 😭
This! Or just in a while some shows that really makes you wonder how you would look in one of those outfits. For example I really like browsing clothes on Taobao because the models make the dresses look really cute and makes me think how pretty and cute I would look like in one of those dresses. The big fashion shows don't do that for me 😅
@@phirion6341 EMOTE 💀💀💀
@@phirion6341 It's because they're meant to be essentially living hangars for the clothes they're showing off. I'm actually serious here and not just saying this.
I swear they think we have absolutely zero creativity to be able to envision ourselves in clothes worn by someone with sass or personality. Me personally, I want to envision myself with spunk or as a bad ass bitch, if you will. Can't do that with someone who looks miserable on the runway.
As someone who was a teen in 1998 the popular style was very…classy. Solid colors, fitted v-necks, “flattering” cuts and colors, neutral but darker makeup, pretty but grown up. The style immediately after was very bright, flippant, silly, party-ish (think early 00s hair flip, lacy tanks, pastels).
I was 16/17 in 98 and I was wearing my Levi silvertabs, navy gap hoodie, and vintage Ruth bowling shirt from Sunset Bowl in York, Nebraska. 😂 I loved my just below waist wide bootcut CK jeans, Yink Drink Dr Seuss baby tee and Candies red leather boots. I wore my Express fitted tops, matching cord jumper dresses and thigh highs with Candies wooden clog heels. I also enjoyed going full Gap with my fave OD green bodysuit, flat front khakis,a matching scarf (all from gap) tied on my neck, and combat style boots. One time, I felt particularly awesome and wore my mom's 70s pink polyester bellbottoms and matching pink and grey cropped button up sweater that my dad bought her while they were dating. I didn't have a single style. I wore whatever the heck I liked! I loved the 90s.
@@MrsBrit1 This is was such a detailed comment I love it
@@MrsBrit1 So stylish! So experimental! I'm a wee bit younger so I didn't really get to experiment with 90s fashion at the time - I was just a kid - but I am now thoroughly enjoying it. Somehow my personal style is either 1300s, 1890s, 1950s or 1990s. Medieval dress one day, bowling shirt and mom jeans the next, my mum's vintage clothes the 3rd day, my gran's the 4th, late Victorian walking suit the 5th.
Don't forget the early 00s "dewy" (read: shiny) faces sans powder, oh gods xD
During the 1990s I was working toward developing a career in business administration. Every year around November I bought my business attire for the year. Evan Piccone suits were my favorites: Expensive with wonderful fit. My favorite shoes were a pair of wine leather Candies peep-toed shoes with stacked leather heels. Sueded silk was big, I had a black suit jacket with matching cullottes (baggy long shorts, really) that I wore with a white silk shell and wide leather belt. I kept a few pieces from my 1990s wardrobe as reference garments, every one of them could be worn today and not appear dated.
About the spectators being under-dressed by today's standards, it was considered rude to outdress the show. So you might see some wealthy people there, but they're in rather plain clothing to be respectful. And, honestly, I prefer that to having attention hogs like the Kim Kardashian and other so-called "influencers" taking up more of the visual space of a show. It's hard to have a show that's only about your current designs when someone shows up in a totally different piece that takes up a ton of room AND they're seated in the front row. I've seen some designers be very diplomatic, but I wish they would have and enforce a dress code again.
In the 80s, the runway was closer to the old style of runway, where the audience used to interact with the models to see the designs up close. Sometimes they would even ask the models if they were comfortable, or liked the color! The 90's saw designers moving the models away from the audience (some of that due to serious bad behavior, often on the part of male spectators), but still feigning that sense of personal interaction. A lot of these shows featured acting to have the audience feel like they were watching a movie or television show, removing the personal element but keeping it familiar. Shows just left the personal behind as more journalists had access to high quality digital cameras and people could see all the detail of a piece from the comfort of a website. I honestly hope that models having more joy in a show comes back. It's off-putting to see all these blank faces (and a lot of people look menacing with a blank face) marching up and down a runway- many of them devoid of even a signature walk. There's a lot of nastiness still present in the fashion industry, and that includes treating models like coat hangers instead of people.
Kylie Jenner in the lion head moment was honestly disrespectful to the show since the dress she wore was the show's closing look they could've left that a surprise have given it to her later
I was just telling my husband that! Like why are people using fashion shows to be seen? That's definitely not the point of a fashion show. I'd say it's comparable to trying to outsing the opera singer in an opera house.
I used to work in a wholesale showroom at the Los Angeles Apparel Mart (oh my goodness... the clothes we bought off the sample racks). Many of the buyers who came in for a private viewing of current collections were the conservatively dressed people sitting in the front rows of the runway shows. 😉
I was just saying similar in another comment. Designers wanted blank clones as models in the 2000’s, which was a really bad choice that killed much interest in the industry. Then instead of going back to super models, they went with the terrible decision to bring in tacky influencers, which was so wrong. They even bring small children or pets for photo ops. They’re all so desperate for attention. It’s such a turn off.
The movie The Fifth Element came out in 97 (when I was a teen) showcasing costumes by Gaultier and it’s still SO iconic ❤
One of my all time favorite movies! 💕
👌👌👌
just one of many things to love about the film! The Art of Costume did a blogcast for anyone interested :)
He did a lot of the concept design in addition to the fashion and it gives the movie such a different, timeless vibe. I live it so much. Nothing else looks like it.
100%. Having McQueen, Galliano, Gaultier, Mugler, etc. all active at the same time - it was definitely a golden age.
I graduated high school in 98 and I loved them all. Vivienne Westwood, Anna Sui, and Betsey Johnson too. So many iconic looks at the same time!
Galliano for Dior seemed to be the last time there was some significant beauty and theatre in fashion. I see Schiaparelli attempting a revival at least clothing wise (not set wise)...but things haven't been the same since we lost Lee McQueen. My favorite right now is Guo Pei though. She brings it every show.
Guo Pei is ICONIC. Absolutely incredible artistry.
@Sibila Delphos I'm a big fan of IVH. She mixes art and science so well and has stunning output. That is not an easy thing to achieve.
@Thumper Thumper Absolutely. It doesn't hurt she has 300 embroiderers in her employ either. Talent finds talent!
There will never be another McQueen! 😢 I went to an exhibit of his work back in December, and I'll never forget it. Being able to look at his designs up close was absolutely incredible. I nearly cried in public several times while touring it, but luckily I had my sunnies with me. 😅
As much i hate Karl Lagerfeld, when he die runways nowadays looks shein with good fabrics (sometimes labels don’t do even that).
Runway fashion low-key died with Gianni Versace. Old designs used to be something that makes a regular person want to save up to buy it, or even replicate the pattern/silhouette by making it yourself. I don't think many regular people are saving up to buy these hideous looking collections that designers put out nowadays. Where would you even wear them to?
I still appreciate the designers that make wearable pretty clothes today, but usually, they're not that popular
I get that it's avant garde and all, but tbh a lot of runway outfits nowadays just feel like layering ugly clothes on top of ugly clothes lol
Well, one can always wear one's Balenciaga gimp mask when one appears on conspiracy podcasts to espouse one's love for Hitler.
You know... Normal people stuff.
Most collections will have a good blend of wearable and statement pieces. Even Schiaparelli - who at their core are a very surrealist fashion house - make gorgeous wearable pieces. I've been following most major houses in recent years and have found at least a couple of outfits I would wear in each of them. And as someone who makes her own clothing sometimes, I am definitely inspired by their work.
"Why would you say something so contraversial yet so brave?" or whatever the saying is😂 I still watch Gianni's shows, nothing wrong per say with what's happening with Versace now. I'll still glance at the screen during runway shows from the 2020s / late 2010s ,however, 1988-1998 shows kept me LOOKING at my screen.
My faves from that era being Prada, some Calvin Klein, Dior, Versace and some Chanel (especially when Karl Lagerfield first hopped on because he was pushing for press and man were they talked about lol). Ralph Lauren shows were also quite relaxing (still are but like I said the 90s pieces keep me glued to the screen while I crochet).
So while I don't ✨hate✨ anything now, maybe the late 80s / 90s were just more whimsical? Gianni's pieces were GORGEOUS though, his style was romantic even when it was daring or toe-ing the line of "edge-y" lol.
All this gushing is brought to you by fashion documentaries and runway shows being available on UA-cam for me to watch back to back for months ... No I do not know what my next fixation will be 😅
@Gugunet26 I recently saw a video of a model struggling to walk with a huge coat that was probably 200 lbs. The coat was so ugly, and the poor girl gave up on it in the middle of her walk. Why is that even a thing?
Damn, I miss UA-cam tag chains, because more than anything right now I want to see HauteLeMode and Mina Le each make their own video about their favorite runway year 🥺 and we could have such a nice time together across all the comment sections
A million times this!
I recently followed a 1990s fashion photo tumblr and I'm seeing so many iconic designs from designers I've never even heard of. I mean it's not all amazing, there was still a lot of blah, mostly in RTW, but the models all seemed so iconic and had actual personalities where now that seems discouraged for the reasons named in this video.
what's the name of the tumblr? sounds p cool
PLEASE share the URL! I need!
Omggg what's the @
Please consider doing a video on how ww1 and ww2 changed women’s fashion
Oooh...
I would definitely watch that!!! Brilliant idea!
Do I know anything about fashion? No
Do I care about fashion? No
Am I still watching this video? Absolutely yes.
So you are reading my thoughts?😂
its like, for 14 minutes i care. and it even makes me think "wow these fashions are really pretty i should go learn more" but do i ever!? no!!! lmao maybe one day i will but for now meme mom can educate me
@@EsmeraldaWolfsbane7777 I guess so haha
@KC It's a good place to be :)
Same!
Back in the late 90s, I was (10 yo at the time) accidentally tuned in Fashion TV at my friend's house which was also a cafe. What I saw first thing was a butt-naked male model with one black long coat holding his junk walking confidently on the runway. Everyone at the cafe were like WTF?! and laughed so hard. My friend and I are still bringing this dude up during our conversations to this day. lol
Honestly, I almost entirely agree - with the minor change that my 'year' would probably be around 1990-1992 because that's when Naoko Takeuchi (author of Sailor Moon) did her research and pulled some ICONIC looks from the runways to add to her manga. But I am biased because... Sailor Moon.
For those interested, Princess Serenity's iconic dress is actually called the Palladio dress, designed by Gianfranco Ferre for Dior in 1992.
The neurodivergent knack of bringing every conversation, no matter how unrelated, back to our special interest 😂
@@AdelBeautyCon I don't know how you spotted that, because I'm undiagnosed but lowkey agree.
@@beckstheimpatient4135 Takes one (me) to know one (you) 😭😂
We love our high functioning neurodiv
Yes! As a kid I'd watch a lot of TV, and fashion shows were one of the things that were always running on one of the few channels we had back then. I'd actually love watching them, all the beautiful women... Nowadays there's that dedicated fashion channel (Fashion TV?) that mostly shows off modern stuff and occasionally clips from fashion shows. It's so boring. But they used to have a 90's segment - at 4 in the morning, for some reason - and the difference was just so noticable! I could watch those 90's segments forever. Then they went and removed the segment entirely. 😠
I know Karolina is younger, but in 1998, American cable tv was broadcasting both full fashion shows and "fashion show recap" compilations to millions of viewers. (Wikipedia tells me this was true for Poland and many other countries as well.) It was the golden period of dedicated cable channels still broadcasting special interest content, and just before the internet killed the fashion mag. You could also walk into a store, even in a small town, and see probably 20 linear feet of fashion magazines. This blows my mind!
I'm biased because, to me, it was iconic because of the age I was when it was all happening. I recall there was a very big sense that the *models* were iconic, but the fashions were not seen as lasting or important. 1998 was still reacting to (or rebelling against) grunge and those weird oversized suit lewks were part of the zoot suit/swing revival.
Yes. The answer is yes.
(Galliano for Dior saved the early to mid 2000's, though.)
My mum was in the fashion industry in New York in the 90s, around this time, working with Anna Sui in her design studio. I was talking about this video to her, and she’s started telling me all about what the scene was like back then, such as with her celebrity/supermodel boutique in Anna Sui’s design studio, or what the parties or runway shows were like in person, which is actually really interesting. She has a lot of cool stories from back then, such as that time with Kate Moss and a monkey, or the Versace party where she met RuPaul.
Givenchy by Alexander Mcqueen was madly underhyped, the Japanese garden and blade runner couture collections didn't go outdated a day
the japanese garden was his creative and technical peak. simply sublime.
There is currently an exhibition at the Palais Galliera in Paris called "1997 Fashion Big Bang" that states exaclty the same thing, they even say that 1997 can be considered as the beggining of 21st century fashion. So your point is museum curators approuved !
Did you know there is an exhibition on that topic in the Paris Fashion Museum ? It’s called « 1997 Fashion Big bang » and it explores exactly that ! If it’s coincidence, it’s really surprising ! 😂
I absolutely love you… As an almost 60 year old who loves fashion shows, this was absolutely fascinating. Thank you for all of your work and extraordinary commentary!❤🎉
Real fashion peaked with 1500 -1530 Landsknecht clothing, after that it was just cope. CHANGE MY MIND!
Impossible because you are right)
This is kinda how i feel about 1898-1899 fashion, Worth really put his ass off on those who'd be some of his last designs, maybe you should talk how fashion repeats itself every 100 years... for example 1780-1880-1980s all had curly hair, 1510-1810-1910-2010 all kinda had that fluffy-minimalistic high waisted silhouette (except of course 2010s changed since most women wear jeans)
Yeah, everything’s been all over the place since the 00s, lol.
I mean, recently 80s fashion came up again, which itself was a redo of 40s fashion. Cycles are much shorter nowadays, and it's no longer a 'reliable' 100 years.
The high-waisted look you're referencing for the 2010s is actually a redo of the 1960s - which also did the whole babydoll thing. So that ends up being a 50 year cycle instead of 100. But then the 70s are everywhere in stores nowadays - which would match a 50y cycle IF the 00s wouldn't also have been all about the paisley and flared jeans - so the cycle has now shrunk to 20.
I love seeing discussions on the cyclical nature of fashion and I love how mind-blowing it can be to track down the origins of some style or another.
@@beckstheimpatient4135 i know i just think it's very interesting how in a lot of eras every 100 years almost the same aesthetic comes backs again
@@beckstheimpatient4135 Rn its the 80s, 90s does 70s, 60s, y2k, and 2013 tumblr girl, or boho. A modern take on all of them, and all of them were taking from something. It’s real crazy to see every years inspo. I really see 80s coming back, but people are still saying ew tacky whilst unknowingly wearing an 80s inspired outfit.
@@KeilaBevins Yeah, these past few years have been quite insane in fashion. But the variety we have at our disposal is fantastic - never has a greater variety of clothing been available like this. Every body type can find something and still be fashionable.
In 1998, we thought the world was going to end, but we hadn't yet thrown up our hands and gone dancing into the abyss.
This is why the clothing in the original Sailor Moon anime series is elite.
Oooh my Fashion TV moments are coming back to my mind😭😭 I vividly remember coming home from shopping, turning FTV on and putting on a whole ass fashion show to my dad😭
For more structured dramatic fashion shows without being too modern artish, I have been watching shows from Chinese brand heaven gaia. It seems like a nice balance between Chinese traditional dress with western formal wear silouettes. (disclaimer being extent to my knowledge is asian dramas I watched growing up) Plus I just love me some light flowy fabrics, pleats, and different colors without going full on neon.
Comme des Garçons' infamous "Lumps and Bumps" collection came out the previous year, 1997!
Oooh 1998! I was a senior taking a fashion illustration class and got my first Vogue subscription. IT. WAS. INCREDIBLE. The construction. The art. The hype. We also had Fashion Television and you could watch all of the shows.
Thank you for this! Been seeing yours and others videos on the body becoming the fashion, and I really feel this happened in the mid to late 90s. In the 80s it was still about color and fabrics and clothing shape, but by the end of the 90s, it really became about the body itself, midriffs, low cuts, short skirts that you had to be a specific thin to wear. Fascinating to see how we re-assess these looks!
I’m probably older than you and very much disagree that the body became part of fashion only in the nineties. At least in the 20th century, the body and various shapes was always part of fashion. Speaking especially of high fashion just in the eighties, as opposed to what the average person wore, there was a big influence of the different shape that had become popular. Skin tight, Lycra looks were big. Open plunging backs. Tiny tight minis. Cleavage. A big trend was giant garments that could reveal various toned, bare parts. Models like Cindy Crawford, who was fashionably athletic and big, were always in magazines showing off bronzed bodies in slick cloths. What most think of as 80s, was not close to high fashion.
I'm not familiar with very much runway fashion, but those 1997 Mugler pieces that are inspired by insects and birds are SO COOL!
I agree, they’re spectacular!
It was a very special period in time overall. The depression had ended, technology was progressing in leaps and became accessible for more and more people, values were turning more liberal, the hypothetical end of the world at millennium was still ahead, youth culture was thriving... It is not just fashion which peaked. Many iconic movies, video games, music and other products of pop culture were also made at that time.
Are you still planning on making videos on the flat renovation? Not asking passive aggressively, just really enjoyed your past videos on it.
she's mentioned she can't spoil "the reveal" so i think its just that editing everything takes longer than the renovation itself since she is filming as she goes and etc. we'll get a reveal just gotta be more patient! i'm also really excited to see the final product!!
I have to say, “I don’t care” when it comes to fashion. But, I do enjoy watching Karolina be passionate about fashion, regardless of the decade or century. I’m so glad to see her be true to herself.
To me since high fashion is art and artistic expression I feel like it needs performance but I’m also an artist and I always love drama.
We have the same brain bc that 1998 Dior show (featured in the thumbnail) is my all time favorite collection 😭♥️ it’s so incredible AHHHH
The 1920s/30s Dior and 1930s Galliano inspired shows... be still, my heart! But yes, the shows were SHOWS. Sigh. Very enjoyable video, Ms. K. Thank you!
I grew up in the 80s and the 90s were such a relief to me. My tastes were always more classic/sleek and the 80s was just a blur of puffs, ruffles, and shoulder pads. I don’t remember when I started cutting the shoulder pads out of everything but at some point, I just lost my patience. It’s interesting to hear the perspective of someone more fashion attuned and you get talk about what made the late 90s different and special. A lot of those looks are themselves “classic” now.
Headline: did runway fashion peak in 1998?
Me, and the world at large: yes.
I watched Mugler’s 1995 show SO MANY TIMES during lockdown! It’s beautiful!! 😍 If the house has models like Dominique Jackson right now, they need to bring back those looks!
Only fashion shows I got into where Fashionably Loud on MTV. In 97, they had Tricky and Prodigy performing.
While I am not an expert, I think there are plenty of reasons why fashion was soo good in the 90s. Fashion shows themselves became popular, the increased availability of the Internet and satellite television outside the United States made fashion more globalized, ESPECIALLY during late 90s. So it makes sense that it was the best when it was at the peak of its popularity for the first time. I can imagine it was also harder for designers to come up with new ideas after something like that. While I agree that the strong "theatre act" aspect of shows died, you can still find great fashion that can be qualified as art statements. Gucci with the twin reveal, Iris van Herpen and her designs that are very iconic already, Dior's tarot campaign were models acted as well, Dilara Findikoglu making contemporary womenswear depicting social commentary on feminism. Good fashion is still out there, but 1998 holds a special place, a gold medal or something idk
What I would do to travel back in time and see a 90s fashion show. The clothes, the super models, the music...all so iconic
In the 10s decade, there was a huge come back of 80s elements in style and now we see 90s appreciation raising. The 30s year rule is as strong as ever.
Sadly it seems the ugly 00s are now in :( however i think 90s fashion will now remain forever relevant in the same way 60s and 70s fashion has.
@@Neonrain08 I think it depends on the countries a lot as well. In addition to nowdays, back then the fashion trends took even years to catch up around the globe, so we see different elements of the time even in their come backs. I agree with you, though. Those decades are somewhat special in a way.
@@Neonrain08The 2000s had some good styles!! Yes some were v ugly but looking back on pictures there were really cute non tiktok y2k clothes that just scream fun and look good
I do agree quite a bit, but I wish to give some credits to f/w 2005-2006. So many beautiful collections. That whole season was dark romantic, elegant, extra, elaborate and fashionable. Fantastic haute couture by Christian Lacroix, Christian Dior, Schrerrer, Givency, JP Gaultier, George Chakra, Franck Sorbier and many more, too many to mention. In other years I have seen many individually beautiful and sometimes epic collections ^^ But yeah, 1998 was a great fashion year (& 90s as era), thank you for the video ^^
Haven't watched this all yet, but the answer to the title is "no"-- but only because Iris Van Herpen has been single-handedly carrying the high fashion world on her back (we have no choice but to stan). Check out "Sensory Seas" or "Earthrise".
When it comes to Galliano, you can’t deny his past and problems, and not being blind by his art and forget how he was (or is), but no one, and I mean NO ONE, can’t deny that his era at Dior is untouchable. Few couturiers nowadays match his levels, and most of the ones that do, are retired or in a better life (Lee McQueen and Thierry). I still go back to his show from time to time, and even watch the documentaries on how a single piece was created. Simply put, Galliano is THE couturier of this century.
My fave! His gowns!😮
20th or 21st?
@@adorabell4253 both
Hello! I'm a fashion illiterate, and I would really like to know what's wrong with designers getting inspiration from other cultures. Isn't it a good sign that the designer actually appreciates the culture and uses it for their work? Wouldn't using only inspiration from Western cultures be the Eurocentrism that everyone seems to be scared of these days?
@@sambilek72 when it comes to fashion, at least the way that I see it, more times than not, designers use other cultures a a gimmick. Yes, they bring awareness to the vast and richness of our world and how many societies, cultures and beauty has developed in centuries along side each other. But at the same time, most designer just go to the basic, meaning, they do little to no research as to why X, Y or Z has a cultural significance and most go the cliche route. Add to that, 80-90% of the models de use, when doing a collection inspired by non western cultures, are of western descent, mostly American (the continent), or European, and if they truly wanted to highlight a cultural influence, they would use models of that culture as a majority or more prominently. Add to all that, the religious and political significance of some styles and why it shouldn’t be used lightly, for fashion, and it gives another whole layer of problems.
And for those who read this, once again, this is me trying to summarize the many problems that using other cultures in fashion, when you’re not from that culture, could bring in a personal opinion.
Hope this helps you Sam.
Fashion as a whole peaked with the oak leaf worth gown and it’s all been downhill from there
The first showing of the fig leaf trend started with some guy in Florence about 550 years or so ago.
Eh, Worth is amazing but overrated. There were many amazing designers after the house's peak under Charles and Jean-Philippe - especially if you consider that Worth worked on very clear templates and shapes. They decorated beautifully, but didn't innovate silhouette - they worked within the very specific shapes of the era - after all, they're well known for having 'pieces' they could assemble together to make semi-custom dresses. They're exquisite pieces, but the house gets quite easily overshadowed by the amazing advances made by people like Poiret, Fortuny, or Vionnet.
Also Karolina, it's interesting that the major American fashion magazines in the 1990s had the most beautiful and uncluttered covers since the 1950s. By the aughts, the ugly overly wordy, truly badly designed covers from the 70s and 80s were back again, but not so much emphasis on the full face shot. And keep in mind that there was a major shift in culture around 1989 to the beginning of the 90s. The bad synth-pop of 80s was out and the darker, more intense music of the of the early 90s scenes was in. The fashion world didn't really know what to do with it. "Grunge fashions" were a total oxymoron. But nevertheless from the classic supermodels of the early decade to the waifs of the later decade, and the very fact that we actually knew the names of the models, all connected to this cultural moment. Later the fashionistas would move towards using celebrities more. The word supermodel was eventually debased in public parlance to simple mean any well paid model, regardless of the fact that by mid-way through the 00s most people couldn't name a young well known model. But the 90s was certainly an interesting time for culture, before the teen culture arising at the end of the decade, and the manipulated idol worship of celebrities (I'm looking at you Britney.) totally swamped the boat.
I think there's something special about the turn of the millenium - i was born in 1999 but in east europe so our developement was like 10 years late - so i cought up the late 90s aesthetics and tbh i think what hooks us in is the "hopeful futuristic" camp - the 90s showed us
Love to see your appreciation for the runway models. Those models had to do ALL the things. And the front row crowds, wow, not a thirsty celebrity in the place!
Galliano was and is brilliant designer.. even though our thoughts about other things are not in line. :) late 90s/millenium was really good time in fashion, but of course I might be a little bit sentimental because that was my late teens and early 20s :D Good times
I graduated in 1998 and loved studying fashion while in high school thanks to magazines like Seventeen and Vogue. I drew many fashion sketches at the time. It's so validating to have someone else recognize this period in fashion, I've always thought a lot of it was special. There were a lot of classic lines and interesting looks (like black paired with pastels) that I still love. ❤
my absolute FAVORITE ever is the Mugler Spring 1997 show. The lighting, the music, the models, the clothes. every single thing about it speaks to me.
I graduated in 96 & it's difficult not to be tragically nostalgic for the end of that decade.
I second this 😢
I Wonder what you’d think about Iris Van Herpen’s “Sensory Seas.” I really like what she does in general, but this was so different from anything I’ve seen and so evocative.
The 1990's as a whole were a vibe. Something happened in 1999 that just made everyone give up - good TV programming, good fashion, good music, etc. I wonder if the nosedive in fashion presentation could also be traced back to the Writers' Strike? 🤔
Agreed and everyone seemed more chill about world issues … now it’s just non stop politics all the time
@@Princesslaya90Negativity sells baby
@@Pollicina_db true lol
I think Y2K rotted some people's brains and they never moved past it. 🥴
The internet and social media ruined everything.
Yesssss 90s supermodels and runway fashion has always had a grip on me and I didn't know how to explain why - I think this is it!
Palais Galliera in Paris actually has an exhibition called "1997 FASHION BIG BANG" now and there you can see some of the very iconic creations. So what you Karolina is talking about is very on point. It's very interesting to hear more about the background to how this came to be such iconic years.
As a 90s preteen, I spend so many Saturdays and Sundays watching FashionTelevision with Jeannie Baker that was just all fashion shows. I have so much nostalgia for this over the top and yet bizarrely wearable era.
1998 was not one or two designer having the best collection it was many designers giving good fuckin collection that it is hard to choose the best and honestly agree but i do think interactive fashion shows are going to come back? because i see a lot of hype around it recently
I completly missed this. Thank you for talking about it.
I have watched you since WAY back now (my husband died week before last and I’ve been reminiscing) him and I, being a gay couple… we sorta turned the UA-camrs that we constantly watched our family because you all were there with through so much … and I find myself wanting to say something only realizing you have no idea who we are …. So now I’m sitting here on my birthday and I needed something to occupy my mind so I decided to write this anyhow to let you know that John suddenly died and Joey is trying to manage… thanks for all of your hard work and amazing times you spent entertaining us!
I love your wallpaper. More than that, though, is how much I love the color pallet of your wall, shirt color, lip color, and skin tone. The whole aesthetic is very pleasing.
I liked the slip dress...which was actually a dress. Taking the trend and literally just wearing a (fairly transparent) slip doesn't quite do it for me
I haven't watched the video yet and I FEEL SO SEEN!
I tried talking to my friends about the Dior 1998 Spring collection, but they don't see the appeal that I do 😩
I started watching you a long time ago, and I remember you saying that you didn’t do ads or were contemplating doing ads. I am really happy you are getting your bag! I love you content. You deserve it.
That's funny because in Paris there is an exhibition dedicated to the year 1997, and how it revolutionize fashion ! I strongly suggest you go and visit it if you can
The 97 Mugler show is engraved in my memory. I have watched it many times these past few years.
The late '90s, when supermodels ruled the world, the VH1 Fashion Awards were a thing, and, most important of all, the Delia's catalog.
Seriously though, Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier 1998 collections are the peak of fashion for me
Delia & Sassy magazine
Those wooden heel clogs
You brought back so many memories
All for skinny girls...cool
Do you, or anyone, remember the name of another catalog that was basically just like Delias? It’s making me crazy because I can’t remember. I bought stuff from both. They looked a lot alike. Delias was a bit more flowers and quirky font on every page. But the clothes and prices were similar.
@@grannyweatherwax8005 Do you remember the catalog Alloy? Boy I had to pull that name from some big cobwebs of my brain.
@@flamingoliz That was it!!! I couldn’t remember the name for ages. I love it just as much as Delias but you don’t hear about it as much.
Just started watching but I agree with your opinions great discussion Karolina
Wo wo woow the show✨ must come back!! Not only is more fun for everybody but it could create a different performance art in between modelling and acting and help to create a framing narrative that just makes everything better. The way it works right now I feel is a bit boring and sometimes hard to keep up? Like many times clothes look like variations on a theme and models just blur into each other.
How interesting. I wasn't paying direct attention to fashion by that point, but the real stars made it into mainstream media too. Now I think you have to search for the innovative designers.
this is so random, but your main point about shows not being this dramatic anymore reminded me of the fashion shows in two movies I love: White Chicks and Head Over Heels. they both have a fashion show that happens to be extra dramatic because of plot reasons and everyone praises the accidentally dramatic show in a way that fits very, very well with your general essay goal here 😂
As a teenager in the 90s I remember reading Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, being amazed by watching the runway shows on Fashion TV and wishing I could afford couture! Used to buy from opshops and try (try and fail mostly) and put outfits together along with sewing, inspired by Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, etc
I don't think current runway shows or fashion will ever get to the height of the late 80's but am sure there are some amazing innovative designers out there to revive the theatrics of it!
It's a pity celebrities and reality tv 'stars' have completely infiltrated fashion and taken away that magic, the 90s supermodels are impossible to top imho, so so many of the models now are boring and nepo kids.
Forgot to add, 90s music like grunge and other alternative music really seemed to influence fashion too, lots of rock stars dating/hanging out with models 😁
The runway crowd were there to see the star of the show (the clothing) not to be the main spectacle...now it's the opposite.
Yes! I noticed that many of my favorite looks were from this era, too! It really had that special *spice*
Loved this video!!!! It would be amazing to have more videos analyzing historic inspiration on fashion shows
I love this! Yes, my dream wardrobe would be late 90's Tom Ford for Gucci. Absolutely stunning 🤩💜
Silk blouses and velvet suits for days!
I am very-very thankful for your input into my understanding of fashion
I appreciate that you highlight both sides of the 90's fashion culture. There were some high fashion that were indeed exquisite, mostly due to referencing earlier historical eras like the 30's and 40's, but there was also that 90's - and I'll argue this was the bigger part of it - that was simply the origin of our own aesthetically uninteresting, lack of silouette, ugly, anemic and worn out present.
I am hopeful though for the future (as long as we don’t fall into fascism and war). The younger generation just hitting their 20s seems to actually be doing some original, interesting things like I haven’t seen for 20 years. In the past year I really see creativity going on in the streets and signs high fashion is becoming interesting again, slowly.
I have been trying to articulate this exact thing for years now and could never figure out how to explain the shift in haute couture that I saw. You nailed it. I love too that you showed how derivative 80’s fashion was. The 1940’s definitely contributed to some trends along with the 1890’s-1900’s Edwardian and Gibson girl aesthetic.
Get out my head 😂 I’ve been scouring images of a 98’ Dolce and Gabanna show! And I got caught up in other shows from 98 so good. Allegedly the coat Madonna is wearing on her ROL (released in 1998) album is D&G and I’m obsessed! Looks like a ruched vinyl trench with a silk lining, so f@cking sick
The 90s was when fast fashion and really cheap out sourced clothing came on the market so there was a lot of competition happening. Most of the people in the front rows were manufacturers representatives trying to figure out what they could use to sell the next season in a cheap simplified version.
Fast fashion came out in the 90s? I thought it was later
@@froggy9191 it started long before that, it just accelerated then due to trade agreements that broke down tarrifs. In the 60s a cheap plain dress cost me about $25. That was a week of groceries for 2 people plus spending money for a dinner out and some lunch and bus fare. In the 90s you could get a similar dress for ... $25. And in the 90s that would not get you a week of groceries for 2.
Another really interesting episode -- I'm not interested in fashion at all, but I enjoy your research and presentation of the topic.
I realized the same thing looking through my tumblr like idk why I ended up with so much mid to late 90s run way fashion I love.
Totally agree. I love that orange Dior coat so much
You absolutely nailed it great video!
I have to laugh a little cause, while completely unrelated, 1998 is also broadly considered to be the greatest year in video games.
Seems like a good year.
I Loved this video so much! It would be kinda fun for you to pick like an iconic year in fashion for every decade when fashion shows were a thing recorded!
In Context of that video I highly recommend the 90's fashion exhibition they have atm at the fashion museum Palais Galliera in Paris. It explains what happened this year's and what impact it had. Also the "soundtrack" on Spotify is just perfect.
1:58 if this isn't on the best dressed list they're clowns i would wear that to every occasion
It would be interesting to see you analyze the fashion in the british television series Skins or the fashion around ~2006-2010 in general, Karolina 😍
"Party like it's 1999" by Prince 1982
Y2K - Year 2000 computer problem, big nothing
I adore this channel!
Just visited palais galleria museum with their exhibit all about 1997 and why it was so impactful in fashion. I think it was really the 1996 - 1999 collections that changed things.
I remember when I was in 6th grade I saw for the first time a Vogue Magazine and I was stunned by 1998 Galliano collection. I didn't knew anything about fashion then ,but I was mesmerised by it. While I loved everything about that period and the dichotomy that came with it between opulance and glamour vs minimalism and conceptualism I'm on the later side of the coin. It was tho such a good introduction to fashion world and a truly iconic period. The 90's brought everything.
My fave from this Era is Christian Lacroix designs. Romantic maximalism?
I now understand Savonarola a lot more. There's some real Bonfire of the Vanities potential in this stuff.