Temperature Monitoring with the Shelly UNI - THE Swiss Army knife of modules.
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Let's do some temperature monitoring with the Shelly UNI and Dallas DS18B20 temperature sensor. The Shelly UNI can do temperature, humidity, and ADC voltage monitoring as well as controlling outputs--all from a single inexpensive and very small device.
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➜ Shelly UNI in Home Assistant: www.home-assis...
➜ Shelly UNI Product: shelly.cloud/p...
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My favourite device, have them in my gate, garage door, aquarium and soon my retic and rainwater tank
I like the versatility. I wish it could be powered off a standard USB power device at 5v.
Uni plus does the 5v, no?
@@gordonkelly7553 yep the plus does, but the original uni was 12v+
I might buy one. Hook it up to my motorcycle. When I turn it on, it sees power, it turns on the lights in my lawn. That's a brilliant use for this as the 12vdc is in the spec range.
Interesting use case!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Clear instruction and well spoken. I am now a follower
Thanks so much for watching and glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the video!
Great video!
Merci beaucoup
Wow Chris you were quick to pick up on my suggestion to look at the Shelly Uni. I think it is a very under-utilised bit of low cost, small form factor interface kit that more HA users should consider building into their projects.
What's the benefit or major difference of the Uni vs an ESP8266 running ESPhome?
Depends on use case, but could be cost or simply the ability to add multiple sensors to one low cost, very small, device. For example, I could put my radio power supply temp sensor, radio heat sink temp sensor, power supply voltage sensor all on the UNI. If I'm reading the docs correctly, I don't need a voltage divider either as the UNI can measure up to either 24v or 36v on the input.
I suspect the power range puts people off a little. Darn near everything is running 5V, 120, or 240. It even misses a large portion of the solar market. Many solar setups use 48v. It seems like it would be great for mobile(RV Car) though. Just my theory.
@@jmr Good point. The lack of 5v power really does limit the device. I mentioned it in the video but didn't spend a great deal of time on it. I've already heard from a couple of ya'll that it is a sticking point. Should've put more emphasis on that issue.
@@mostlychris You made it clear for those of us that didn't fast forward through. 🤣 IMHO it's a real shame it doesn't go into the 48v range. It would be great for solar monitoring. It's often cheaper and more efficient to work at 48v but it's still low enough electrical codes allow diy without as many rules. At 48v it might have been able to tap into POE for power as well. I think we have plenty of similar 5v gear.
Thanks for great video, can i Connect more dallas sensors on the same pins?
Nice tutorials, thank you!. Do you know if I should connect the "H-Tronic 1115275" sensor according to the DS18B20 wiring ?
Hello and congratulations as always,
I was wondering, having to connect the uni shelly to a 52v battery by means of a resistor voltage divider both for power supply (pin1 pin2) and for measuring with ADC (pin3 pin6) I would have to know the internal resistances of pin1pin2 and pin3pin6 to be able to better size the resistors of the dividers (or the divider with which to do everything) so as to send a variable DC voltage of around 25v to the input of the shelly uni so as to be able to power it and read its voltage at the same time. Can you help me determine the divider resistances? I've already lost one because as soon as I connected the shelly to the divider (resistor in parallel) the voltage jumped to 50v and it burned out. A thousand thanks.
Hey could you please explain how to connect binary inputs IN1/IN2? Are they considered a "plus" or a "minus"? In my gate, I have terminals "X" and "Y" (potential free). Their circuit is only closed when the gate isn't. So I'd like to use IN1 to monitor state of the gate. Once I connect IN1 to "X", should I connect "Y" to Shelly's "plus" or "minus"? Edit: I think I found the answer: normally, you need to connect just 1 wire of IN1 or IN2, and that's enough for sensor to work. But if there's no current in a circuit (like in my case) you need to provide a "plus" for the other terminal ("Y" in my case). Hope this is right!
Could you maybe tell me if it is possible to control an analog output via Home Assistant with 4-20mA (variable, changing several times per minute)? Thanks!
I managed to fry my Uni because I was trying to monitor temperature and input voltage. Normally to measure input voltage (i.e. power supply battery voltage) the green and black wires are attached to negative coming in. But when using the temp sensor the green wire is used on the temp sensor. Me, knowing nothing about this, thought I could also splice the green wire to go to both the temp sensor and the negative to battery. The smell of burning electronics filled the room. Is there any way to monitor both? Or do I need to Uni units to monitor this?
Awesome video. So to use 2 temp Se sort you can simply daisy chain them together?
You can use more than one as long as you get each ID and reference the ID.
How we could utilize this unit to control split unit air conditioner
Hi, im testing the shelly uni, but when i turn on the button, the wires of outputs both 1 and 2 arent connected, i need open a door with it, but it doesnt works, thanks
Hi. If i sant to Connect 3 temp.devises, DS18B20 - hos do I Connect them? Should it not be 3 inputs on the Shelly Uni?
Just subscribed, great channel. Any chance you can do a video on setting up private MQTT (e.g. cloudmqtt / HiveMQ) with ESP8266?
I'll add that to my idea list. Thanks for subscribing!!
Chris, when I log into my Shelly Uni device a go into the Internet & Security settings then Advanced-Developer Settings, I do not see "Enable CoIoT"setting to Enable. I only see "Enable action execution via MQTT". It also has a "WARNING: If you enable MQTT - actions via Cloud connection will be disabled!. Can you help me. Thank you.
Are you on the latest firmware version?
Why doesn't this thing come with an enclosure?
Where are you supposed to put it once you've wired it? I don't like the idea of sticking exposed PCB next to wires.
Yes, I'm a n00b so likely a silly comment for please humour me.
Although I do wish that they would put colours on the instruction manual instead of numbers that have zero relevance.
Agreed.
Can I assume a pullup resistor is already build in and not needed for the temperature sensor readout? I can't seem to get any temperature reading.
If I remember correctly on this one, there is a resistor on the board. Not getting a reading...is it zero or just nothing?
Is the uni not available in the US? Couldn’t find one on Amazon even on the Shelly store site
I don't see it on Amazon but I do find it on the Shelly site.
Chris, do you think that I can use the Shelly Uni to change a 3V DC rocker switch into a switch that Google Home can see and operate?
If it doesn't exceed the loading capability. However, you might consider a relay or something else for that purpose.
Could we connect two temperature sensor?
If I remember correctly, you can. I know for sure you can do this with the ESP based boards.
Hi,
I am making a DIY solar thermal system.
Is it feasible to provide shelly 1 firmware update to activate relays based on the difference between the two temperatures measured by the probes connected to it?
Example: relay ON when T1-T2 > 5°C
Thanks.
Not sure. I'd suggest reaching out to Shelly and ask them about that since they would be the ones to write the firmware update.
Could this be used to monitor hot water pipe external temperature in water cylinder. Would that sensor be okay to just tape up to a pipe to read temp ?
For my radio's heatsink, I have it fixed to the blades of the heatsink so attaching it to the pipe would probably be fine (if you don't melt the tape). Be aware that surrounding environment around that sensor might influence the accuracy of the temp reading.
Does the Shelly device shown in your video work with out any other products other than HA or do you need some sort of hub or controller for Shelly devices?
I've only used it with HA. However, it is a wifi based device and works out of the box with their cloud. I'm sure it will work in other controllers that have an integration built for it. The fact that you can talk to it directly on the network means it has the potential to be controlled in other ways.
@@mostlychris sorry for confusing the matter. What I was trying to ask and failed is can this device be used with Home Assistant without adding some sort of Dongle. The Athom plugs for example does not need anything but the plug. I have seen but never tried zipbee devices and the reason I shyed away from them is I read you need the zigbee device and some sort of donlge or control center allowing it to speak to HA. Probably confused matters even more so if that this the case just ignore the post.
@@MaxGoddur I think I understand. There are all-in-one devices that can be used via wifi or z-wave or zigbee. This shelly UNI is more of a do-it-yourself option for customizing sensors. It allows you to add what you need and also add more than one thing on a single platform.
@@mostlychris yes that is exactly why I am interested in possible adding it to my Home Assistant setup. I currently use ESPhome and Athom plugs but have a bunch of ESP8266's used through out the home for temps and relay usage. LIke the idea when an upgrade comes along the Athom plugs can be upgraded all at once even the Treatlife wall switches but did not like the having to use and adapter to load the initial program on the Treatlife products. Thank you for your time and help.
I attached one to my nephew and he's still dumb!
That's a lol.
And vices say that Brazilians are ending the Amazon. He looks at the hideous wall behind him. Imagine how many trees didn't die to do that forgetty thing. Because it was horrible 😂
ua-cam.com/video/wd5jv_G6BCE/v-deo.htmlsi=ltd6Qq0jdstDlpfL
Quando for fazer faça assim fica mais bonito e sem acabar com a natureza