@@FixingFurnitureDo you have a video on how to match wood filler to stain? I am trying to repair gouges on a speaker that has walnut veneer but the filler even that it's supposed to be walnut color does not match after being sanded. Thank you
In this case where the piece is removable it's a no brainer making a new piece. Especially for my limited abilities. To me you are the Bob Ross of furniture repair. Very easy to listen to and enjoy.
I am 85 years old and have been woodworking for 51 years. I love your show and I always pick up a new trick from you. You asked which method I would use: A new piece of wood or putty the old one. I would have to ask myself "What mood are you in today 'Fester'?" If I am in the "don't bother me, leave me alone, go away, and get lost" mood so I would putty the old piece and move on. If I had a good night NOT worrying if I am going to make it through the night, I would 'boldly go forth', measure correctly, cut it correctly, stain it, fit it, and rejoice" What a damn good boy you are 'Fester' !! A real fan......Glen G, Houston
Scott, I could live with either the epoxy repair or the new piece, both show your craftsmanship, the replacement overall is better looking. Thank you for sharing .
Very nice. I watched because I have a 100 year old Cherry card table that needs some minor repair. I am more of a fan of power tools, but really enjoyed watching a real craftsman at work.
Nicely done and great options for the customer. A couple of hints on the epoxy. Mohawk has colored epoxy sticks that assist with the color match. And, a chisel with a wet edge at the 15, 30, and 45 minute mark of dry time makes shaping a lot easier. Excellent job overall.
You've got a new subber! NOT because I've furniture to repair, not because I have a full workshop full of specialty tools (which I don't), but because I'm a "handy" homeowner with lots of hobbies/interests/ household assorted repairs/modifications to do, and I have to admit, I love working with my limited tools solving repair problems and creating unique solutions. SO - here you are, obviously not only a master craftsman, but a master communicator, videographer, and know about good audio considerations, and a very pleasing personality. I've much to learn from you, and there's no better way than to "like" and "sub". MANY thanks for entering my world.
Wow, thank you for your support. That’s wonderful to hear. As a handy homeowner you might also be interested in our Home Improvement Woodworking channel. Cheers. Scott
One of the things I always take away from most of your video's Scott, is the fact that you do achieve good results with hand tools, more so than powered tools. showing that a lot of repairs can be done with out the need for a full complimented workshop. And as always another great tutorial to help us Neophytes learn things thanks for sharing. ECF
I really enjoyed watching how you repaired and replaced the stretcher in the chair. I agree with using the replaced part as it best replicates the finish of the chair. Thanks for sharing your skills with us, Scott.
This is so helpful! My puppy has chewed up some of my furniture, and I feel confident now that I can use the wood filler etc. and stop stressing out. Great video!
One technique I use when using epoxy fill is to use some soapy water (water with a few drops of dish detergent) to help do the shaping and smoothing. A lot of my work was on-site and fixed charge, so I would have probably used a toner to do the coloring to speed the process. Guardsman Black Cherry or Mohawk Newport/Ebonized Cherry looks like it might have been a close match. Most furniture like this has been finished with a lacquer toner anyway. And I normally used a non-wax burn in stick for the little fills. I have two types -- a hard one and one that's a little bit softer for areas that might receive a bump over its life. Non-structural repairs could also use Bondo or some other mfr's equivalent. I remember once fixing a dog chew on a rather complex base molding of a cabinet. I used the Bondo and it took quite a while to get the molding profile cut back in. Once done, the customer said it was a great color match. An hour doing the fill and 5 minutes doing the color match!
I'm coming from a carpentry background, not a furniture background. I have used the Minwax bondo (High-Performance Wood Filler) in many applications, and when I have to stain it, I sand it with 80 grit, or even 60 grit to leave some grooves to accumulate more stain and imitate grain. (I convince myself that it works, but tbh, not very well.) -- For cutting out moldings, I have lots of experience. For some years, I was doing restorations on 1-1/2-story tall, pre-WW-I ornate mahogany entranceways for apartment buildings in Boston that had suffered UV damage, and required scraping away the surface layer of wood. These jobs were about $10K each, and that was below the market rate. Some had Corinthian column-capitals, with carved acorns and oak leaves, and some of the moldings were built up to the point of having over 40 distinct surfaces to scrape and sand. -- Doing this on moldings was made easier by a no-longer-available Craftsman detail scraper (Hyde makes one, but the shapes are not as good). It's a handle to which are clamped various blades, held at about a 75 degree angle to the axis of the handle, by means of a retractable t-rod that fits through a keyhole in the blade. Three of the blades were rectangles with one end rounded to a radius, 1-1/2" wide, 3/4" wide, and another 3/4" wide one that was tapered to get down to about a 1/16" radius. There were a couple of assymetrical pentagons, one tall and the other one very flat, the flat one with ends like angled chisels. And the last one was like an arc from a 3" circle, flat on the other side, like a semi-circle but flatter, that used about 1/4 of the circumference. All of the edges were sharpened, and the resulting scrapers were very useful. Eventually I had to get a metal fab guy to make me new ones, because the old ones had been sharpened down to being too thin to fit well on the handle. -- This kind of scraping gets into shaping, and the angle on the handle was very helpful. At any rate, I was able to get nice, sharp grooves with these tools. For sanding, I tried out a few detail sanders and found them useless. I ended up using strips of credit cards about 7/8" wide, with 1/16 of a sheet of 80 grit wrapped around them. (I always found Norton Pro-Sand to be the best. 3M clogs too fast and doesn't cut as well, except for their stretchy plastic sandpaper which is useful in some applications.) -- For exterior work, I use Sikkens Cetol Marine varnish. It's an alkyd varnish that stays somewhat flexible, and has UV protection, and it lets the grain show through a lot better than the Cetol residential products. (Corporate rearrangement led to the two lines being made by different companies.) The marine product is easy to clean up for maintenance coats-- wash with TSP and a scotchbrite pad, rinse, dry, and recoat. They recommend every two years, but it looked pretty good after six years, being in a non-marine application. -- And when applying any varnish over oily woods like mahogany, it's imperative to wash the wood down with acetone or laquer thinner, to get the oils out of the surface of the wood, just before application. Otherwise the color comes out all splotchy. Been there, done that.
It seemed obvious from the beginning that you were going to use the new part. The chewed part could have been repaired flawless, and made to look new if the tine had been spent on it.
My only option would be to use the epoxy. You had excellent results with it. You probably can only see the chew marks close up or if you knew they were there beforehand. Great video for someone who’s only option is the DIY approach. Very informative.
That was a great video. I love the pro vs DIY approaches. The pro technique was explained so well that if I had the tools, I think I could do it. The epoxy is a homeowners best friend.
Great job! learned so much by watching your video! This somethung a student should attempt in a Woods class. Very impressed by your work-Thank You-John
I love the fact that you gave us more than one way to complete the task. Some might feel confident enough to do it one way, another might feel the filler might be easier.
Just glancing through the comments I didn't notice anyone mention a third or 4th technique, the third I used a couple times. Cutting out the affected area and using real wood as the filler. With the damage on all sides I get that it would be more difficult than say just one side. Works in a splint like fashion. The fourth technique is to completely cut out the affected chew area and splice in new wood, with how you were meticulous to saw the joints I could see you doing that. With the stain as dark as it is it would be easier to cover up if the whole piece is sanded down and redone in it's entirety. It could also be that the video doesn't capture the tone and grain as well. Unquestionably quality craftsmanship regardless! 👍
Thanks for sharing that Paul. Yes, both valid techniques. My preference is the whole new piece, but I come from a woodworking background. Cheers. Scott
Glad you liked that Shawn. I had fun filming and editing that section to show all the detail but not make it boring. Tenons can seem intimidating, but with experience, it becomes a "tool in your toolkit" for repairs. Cheers
As it happens, I have some chair stretchers my puppy chewed. When I get ready to repair them (after he's grown a bit), the things you've shared in this video will definitely come in handy. Thanks. My personal preference is to use wood filler rather than attempt to cut a new one. I lack the skills, the tools, and material to make a new one. Personally, I prefer the old one anyway. Yours looked more natural to me because it was aged looking which matches the rest of the chair. By the way, I subscribed.
Masterful as always. I’d have to use the epoxy fill as I don’t have all the tools you used to create the stretcher. Thanks for sharing. I always learn something and this was no exception.
I like the use of the new stretcher. There is a lot of “detail” work with the epoxy. Plus if the puppy cannot get enough chewing…he/she won’t be chewing on epoxy residue.🤗. Thank you for an interesting video, and I look forward to more. Happy Fathers Day! Peace 💫
I thoroughly enjoyed your video! I appreciate your showing the two processes. While I would use the newly created piece, I would have to go w/the epoxy putty piece due to my lack of tools and skill level. You’re so calm, patient and thorough. Many thanks!
I would have started with your option 2 first. Repairing the wood. And I would have completed the project by purchasing a new set of chairs. Thanks for a great video.
Przy starych meblach i małych uszkodzeniach lepsze jest łatanie, ale w tym wypadku ma Pan rację, lepiej wymienić element. Bardzo dobrze wyszło. Zdrowia i powodzenia życzę.
Thank you. Not only did you give us options, but you also did a great job teaching us. I agree that sanding would have helped the repair but also would have used the new piece. Having worked in the woodshop in my school, I am a rookie at finish carpentry. I have also used that same type of filler in household projects. Bravo to you!
I appreciated the detail of your steps to show how to make the tenon, which I thought to be complex. Your finish insights were also great. Thank you for this video. I'm now a new subscriber!
Scott: if I had the tools I would go the route you took. However, it was most interesting to see what could be done with the epoxy. I love the fact, as an interior designer, I am gaining knowledge to be able to talk to a restorer/refinisher to get the job done professionally for my clients. I enjoy your channel. Carol from California
Both methods are good. I think I would go with the epoxy repair. I think it would be quicker that making a whole new piece. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
This video was super helpful to me. I have a similar repair on a kitchen counter height chair. In my case it wasn't the dog but rather the kids standing on the stretcher. I will be doing the replacement approach since the stretcher is cracked pretty badly. Was struggling with the angles of the tenon so watching you was very instructive!
nice job! learned a lot with your teaching approach. I might have tried autobody glazing putty to fill the small imperfections....I have used it before and it works but do not know if it would take the stain perfectly. I did not know about burn in product. thanks.
I am a 63 y.o. women with no wood working skills. I inherited a little end table from my deceased parents. They bought it in 1972. This little table reminds me of my childhood. I don't know how to describe it other than it is round with a central support column which fits into another piece of would that is carved from the center into legs. I believe it is mahogany. My Lab puppy thought one of the legs would make a nice snack and gnawed the top of the leg down. Just the top is gone. I do not have any wood working equipment. I want to hire someone to fix this in the hope that they will let me watch them do the repair so I can learn. This was an excellent video to learn how a wood worker would fix my table. I really enjoyed it.
Thank you very much for showing how a professional tackles a problem like that. I've got a couple inexpensive pieces with damages from a cat scratching them. You've given me some ideas how I can bring them back with a little patience and care. (In the past, I've made repairs with a mix of sawdust and wood glue, sanding and repainting, but the piece I'm looking at is more intimidating damage than I've tackled before. At least it isn't structural.) I'll take my time and make sure I get the shape right before I paint it. Thanks!
Another great video, Scott! Thanks so much for spending the time, effort and money (those wood epoxy tubes are not cheap!) to show us more than 1 method. As always, your final product looks amazing!! Be blessed!
I have a few pieces with "nibble marks". The new stretcher looks perfect! But if I were doing it I would probably use the filler as it seems easier for a layman.
Thanks for the great content. I think I would have tried to router out flat on each side to inlay a new patch. Probably more work than either of your techniques but I always try to save the original wood if I can. Thanks for the great videos, always interesting to see how someone else tackles these challenges
¡Great master! Ud. siempre nos sorprende con las soluciones en las restauraciones de muebles. Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos y experiencias. Nos enseña que no solo hay una solución para una restauración, solo hay que echar a andar la imaginación y la experiencia. Muy bien explicado y fácil de entender aunque no hablemos el mismo idioma. Felicitaciones, éxitos y saludos.
Great! Thank you so much! It’s been puzzling to me how to color that epoxy. Been using it on this and that knowing it will always show the repair. This is great info. TYSM!
Very neat indeed, when I was young I used to play with that, I still have some tools yet enough to help me out in my home projects, most kind of you for sharing it with us blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
I’ve always been interested in repairing old furniture like that. That’s pretty cool to see how you did it. My only question is which way is least expensive to repair using the epoxy or actually making the whole stretcher again I know time they say time is money, but if I was to fix it for my own personal use my own furniture is it more cost-effective for me to make a new stretcher or is it more cost-effective to get Epoxy putty and put it on them? That’s what I would like to know . Things are not getting cheaper so I’d think how ever a person can save money that’s the way to go
I enjoyed both the methods of repairing although I preferred the second method since I know I wouldn’t be able to deal with the first method . Thanks you . Greetings from Yemen 🇾🇪
I like the one you made better. My question is could you have cut thar piece out and added one in? That might have been less noticabe than rhe epoxy one? Thanks like you videos.
That's a good question Robert. To patch in pieces of wood, that would have been difficult as it was on multiple slides. I guess with 4 different patches, it could be done. Thanks for sharing that thought and thank you for being a subscriber to our channel! Scott
Ah, that's an interesting way to look at it. Fortunately, the customer's dog has grown out of the chewing stage, so it won't be an issue for them going forward. Cheers. Scott
Sorry but can't resist a comment here: Who goes to an upscale carpenter (must be costly too) to repair the piece of wood chewed off by a dog? I could fix it simply by putting some epoxy and fine wood grains and paint with matching color and done with it. But, thanks to the creator of this video who showed the right way to do that fix which is obviously going to be damn costly even over the original price of that Indonesian made chair. And no doubt - it's the finest woodwork! [Update} I put the above comment before I finished watching your full video where you showed the second option at the end - with epoxy. Sorry. you know "The great people think alike". Hats off to you.
Wow. Magical to see you work. I think it’s important to teach people how to fix things instead of going out to get new stuff with none of the quality of the replaced item. Things are just not made well anymore.
Good job! 👏👏👏 Did you consider using Bondo for the repair? If so, I'd love to know why you chose epoxy instead. Since the stretcher is in tension during use, the filler serves little structural purpose.
Thanks. I don’t use Bondo for wood repair as the colour is an issue. I need a filler that mimics wood so it can be stained and finished to match. If it was painted, that could work. Scott
My experience with epoxy wood filler is that it won’t stain right. I only use it for hidden structural repairs. Acrylic stain? I’m gonna try that. Thanks for the demonstration.
Epoxy filler can be hard to work with,first I would have used instant glue to harden the fibers of the wood where the dog chewed it then used minwax wood filler ,then sanded it smooth finally using mohawk spray toners and blendalls, tocolor the repair .I have 40 years in the furniture repair business, thank you great video
Oh, interesting comment. I love to hear how people react to my editing. Can you tell me more about your thought on the music? Thanks in advance! Scott 👍
Great vedio! Many options. You could use automotive glazing compound for the filling the fine holes. Still it was educational to show as you said the small holes. Curious, what would charge for repairing? Price for each meathod? Thanks
One question I had in mind when you started the epoxy version was how you were going to handle the grain match. From the video, it seems like you ignored it, relying on the dark stain to disguise the mismatch. Is that right? One trick I've tried with some success is to pencil in some grain lines. This is particularly useful for light stains or when leaving the wood natural. The earlier in the finishing process you add grain lines, the better the effect seems to be. They might disappear when rubbing off stain, though, but you can just reapply them. After patching a half-inch gouge in some red oak with epoxy and penciling in grain lines, my wife couldn't tell where the patch was, even knowing it was there somewhere. You know that if it passes the wife test, it's good!
Great repair. I learned a lot. One question: I've seen a number of videos where the wood worker does not use the stain OR paint directly out of the bottle to avoid the possibility of contamination. What are your thoughts on this process?
Also, metric is most likely what the shop that built it was using. If it was an older American or English piece, you might get a more consistent measurement in inches and eights/sixteenths.
Your videos are very therapeutic to watch and listen to. You always do a great job too on the things you fix. 👍
Wow, thank you! I appreciate that. Thank you for being a subscriber and supporting our channel! Scott
@@FixingFurnitureDo you have a video on how to match wood filler to stain?
I am trying to repair gouges on a speaker that has walnut veneer but the filler even that it's supposed to be walnut color does not match after being sanded. Thank you
@FixingFurniture -- your favorite woodworking tools are plane as day.
I agree. I think he can always fall back on a career in narration. Very soothing and pleasant voice, great for commentating.
Dude, he turned around and started talking and I sub’d. There are some channels that ya just know. Not disappointed so far.
In this case where the piece is removable it's a no brainer making a new piece. Especially for my limited abilities. To me you are the Bob Ross of furniture repair. Very easy to listen to and enjoy.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on our videos. I appreciate that. Scott
I am 85 years old and have been woodworking for 51 years. I love your show and I always pick up a new trick from you. You asked which method I would use: A new piece of wood or putty the old one. I would have to ask myself "What mood are you in today 'Fester'?" If I am in the "don't bother me, leave me alone, go away, and get lost" mood so I would putty the old piece and move on. If I had a good night NOT worrying if I am going to make it through the night, I would 'boldly go forth', measure correctly, cut it correctly, stain it, fit it, and rejoice" What a damn good boy you are 'Fester' !! A real fan......Glen G, Houston
Love it, Fester! 😂
Scott, I could live with either the epoxy repair or the new piece, both show your craftsmanship, the replacement overall is better looking. Thank you for sharing
.
These videos give me early 90s edutainment vibes and I love it so much.
Ah, Hometime, This Old House, The New Yankee Workshop... some of my favourite TV shows! Scott
That was a masterclass. Perfect thing for an early rainy night in Scotland.
Glad you enjoyed it. Stay warm. Scott 🇨🇦
You’re an artist and true craftsman
Very nice. I watched because I have a 100 year old Cherry card table that needs some minor repair. I am more of a fan of power tools, but really enjoyed watching a real craftsman at work.
I was today years old realizing that epoxy putty can be planed by a simple hand plane. Cheers! Love your channel! It’s so educational!
Thank you for being a subscriber and supporting our channel! Cheers! Scott
Nicely done and great options for the customer. A couple of hints on the epoxy. Mohawk has colored epoxy sticks that assist with the color match. And, a chisel with a wet edge at the 15, 30, and 45 minute mark of dry time makes shaping a lot easier. Excellent job overall.
Thanks for the tips! I appreciate you sharing your experience for me and others to learn. Cheers. Scott
You've got a new subber!
NOT because I've furniture to repair, not because I have a full workshop full of specialty tools (which I don't), but because I'm a "handy" homeowner with lots of hobbies/interests/ household assorted repairs/modifications to do, and I have to admit, I love working with my limited tools solving repair problems and creating unique solutions. SO - here you are, obviously not only a master craftsman, but a master communicator, videographer, and know about good audio considerations, and a very pleasing personality. I've much to learn from you, and there's no better way than to "like" and "sub". MANY thanks for entering my world.
Wow, thank you for your support. That’s wonderful to hear. As a handy homeowner you might also be interested in our Home Improvement Woodworking channel. Cheers. Scott
I'll check it out, thanks!@@FixingFurniture
Thanks for presenting both options a definite skill builder.
You're welcome. Happy to share furniture repair skills. Scott 🇨🇦
I would like to say you are the bob ross of woodwork your voice and your videos are so relaxing and very educational thank you 😊
I have always used epoxy wood putty to fill loose wood screw holes, I didn't imagine it could be used to fill the puppy toy. Thank you!
Oh, interesting. I haven't tried using epoxy putty to fill loose screw holes. How does that hold up over time? I'm curious now. Scott
WOW! I watch the tv show "How is Made" all the time. this video tutorial is just as ENJOYABLE. what a Great Job. Thanks Buddy for Sharing
They both look okay ... and for us that don't have every species of wood sitting around ... THANK YOU
You're welcome! Scott
This video was amazing. Thank You.
One of the things I always take away from most of your video's Scott, is the fact that you do achieve good results with hand tools, more so than powered tools. showing that a lot of repairs can be done with out the need for a full complimented workshop. And as always another great tutorial to help us Neophytes learn things thanks for sharing. ECF
You're welcome. It's rewarding for me to hear you're getting so much out of our videos. I appreciate that. Scott
Beautiful work. Good to see the sliding T bevel getting its spotlight. This underrated tool doesn't get enough love. :)
I never thought of that, but yeah, it's a simple but irreplaceable tool. Thanks for being a subscriber and supporting our work! Scott
Mine is kind of ratty from decades of remodeling, but it a fabulous tool.
I really enjoyed watching how you repaired and replaced the stretcher in the chair. I agree with using the replaced part as it best replicates the finish of the chair. Thanks for sharing your skills with us, Scott.
You're welcome. Thank you for being a subscriber and supporting our channel. I appreciate that! Scott
This is so helpful! My puppy has chewed up some of my furniture, and I feel confident now that I can use the wood filler etc. and stop stressing out. Great video!
One technique I use when using epoxy fill is to use some soapy water (water with a few drops of dish detergent) to help do the shaping and smoothing. A lot of my work was on-site and fixed charge, so I would have probably used a toner to do the coloring to speed the process. Guardsman Black Cherry or Mohawk Newport/Ebonized Cherry looks like it might have been a close match. Most furniture like this has been finished with a lacquer toner anyway. And I normally used a non-wax burn in stick for the little fills. I have two types -- a hard one and one that's a little bit softer for areas that might receive a bump over its life. Non-structural repairs could also use Bondo or some other mfr's equivalent. I remember once fixing a dog chew on a rather complex base molding of a cabinet. I used the Bondo and it took quite a while to get the molding profile cut back in. Once done, the customer said it was a great color match. An hour doing the fill and 5 minutes doing the color match!
I'm coming from a carpentry background, not a furniture background. I have used the Minwax bondo (High-Performance Wood Filler) in many applications, and when I have to stain it, I sand it with 80 grit, or even 60 grit to leave some grooves to accumulate more stain and imitate grain. (I convince myself that it works, but tbh, not very well.)
-- For cutting out moldings, I have lots of experience. For some years, I was doing restorations on 1-1/2-story tall, pre-WW-I ornate mahogany entranceways for apartment buildings in Boston that had suffered UV damage, and required scraping away the surface layer of wood. These jobs were about $10K each, and that was below the market rate. Some had Corinthian column-capitals, with carved acorns and oak leaves, and some of the moldings were built up to the point of having over 40 distinct surfaces to scrape and sand.
-- Doing this on moldings was made easier by a no-longer-available Craftsman detail scraper (Hyde makes one, but the shapes are not as good). It's a handle to which are clamped various blades, held at about a 75 degree angle to the axis of the handle, by means of a retractable t-rod that fits through a keyhole in the blade. Three of the blades were rectangles with one end rounded to a radius, 1-1/2" wide, 3/4" wide, and another 3/4" wide one that was tapered to get down to about a 1/16" radius. There were a couple of assymetrical pentagons, one tall and the other one very flat, the flat one with ends like angled chisels. And the last one was like an arc from a 3" circle, flat on the other side, like a semi-circle but flatter, that used about 1/4 of the circumference. All of the edges were sharpened, and the resulting scrapers were very useful. Eventually I had to get a metal fab guy to make me new ones, because the old ones had been sharpened down to being too thin to fit well on the handle.
-- This kind of scraping gets into shaping, and the angle on the handle was very helpful. At any rate, I was able to get nice, sharp grooves with these tools. For sanding, I tried out a few detail sanders and found them useless. I ended up using strips of credit cards about 7/8" wide, with 1/16 of a sheet of 80 grit wrapped around them. (I always found Norton Pro-Sand to be the best. 3M clogs too fast and doesn't cut as well, except for their stretchy plastic sandpaper which is useful in some applications.)
-- For exterior work, I use Sikkens Cetol Marine varnish. It's an alkyd varnish that stays somewhat flexible, and has UV protection, and it lets the grain show through a lot better than the Cetol residential products. (Corporate rearrangement led to the two lines being made by different companies.) The marine product is easy to clean up for maintenance coats-- wash with TSP and a scotchbrite pad, rinse, dry, and recoat. They recommend every two years, but it looked pretty good after six years, being in a non-marine application.
-- And when applying any varnish over oily woods like mahogany, it's imperative to wash the wood down with acetone or laquer thinner, to get the oils out of the surface of the wood, just before application. Otherwise the color comes out all splotchy. Been there, done that.
It seemed obvious from the beginning that you were going to use the new part. The chewed part could have been repaired flawless, and made to look new if the tine had been spent on it.
My only option would be to use the epoxy. You had excellent results with it. You probably can only see the chew marks close up or if you knew they were there beforehand. Great video for someone who’s only option is the DIY approach. Very informative.
Enjoyed video very much. I like the no foolishness in your video. Great ideas and not an irritating voice so makes it enjoyable. Thx again.
That was a great video. I love the pro vs DIY approaches. The pro technique was explained so well that if I had the tools, I think I could do it. The epoxy is a homeowners best friend.
Great job! learned so much by watching your video! This somethung a student should attempt in a Woods class. Very impressed by your work-Thank You-John
I love the fact that you gave us more than one way to complete the task. Some might feel confident enough to do it one way, another might feel the filler might be easier.
Yes and if you are new to woodworking, those angles to copy and cut could be a challenge
Almost 100K, the silver plate from UA-cam and your first milestone!
Your skill is fantastic. To pay you accurately for the work you did, one should be able to buy 2 of those chairs.
This poor man is incredible. Bless his soul!
Just glancing through the comments I didn't notice anyone mention a third or 4th technique, the third I used a couple times. Cutting out the affected area and using real wood as the filler.
With the damage on all sides I get that it would be more difficult than say just one side. Works in a splint like fashion.
The fourth technique is to completely cut out the affected chew area and splice in new wood, with how you were meticulous to saw the joints I could see you doing that. With the stain as dark as it is it would be easier to cover up if the whole piece is sanded down and redone in it's entirety. It could also be that the video doesn't capture the tone and grain as well.
Unquestionably quality craftsmanship regardless!
👍
Thanks for sharing that Paul. Yes, both valid techniques. My preference is the whole new piece, but I come from a woodworking background. Cheers. Scott
Scott, that tenon fabricated was amazing! I know most won't understand until they've tried to do a normal one, forget that beast...lol
Glad you liked that Shawn. I had fun filming and editing that section to show all the detail but not make it boring. Tenons can seem intimidating, but with experience, it becomes a "tool in your toolkit" for repairs. Cheers
I truly appreciate your professionalism. Great communicator and great videography.
Glad you enjoyed this video. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
As it happens, I have some chair stretchers my puppy chewed. When I get ready to repair them (after he's grown a bit), the things you've shared in this video will definitely come in handy. Thanks. My personal preference is to use wood filler rather than attempt to cut a new one. I lack the skills, the tools, and material to make a new one. Personally, I prefer the old one anyway. Yours looked more natural to me because it was aged looking which matches the rest of the chair. By the way, I subscribed.
Masterful as always. I’d have to use the epoxy fill as I don’t have all the tools you used to create the stretcher. Thanks for sharing. I always learn something and this was no exception.
Thanks for sharing that Katherine! I always love to hear how viewers would approach a repair. Have a great weekend! Scott
I would approach this project by sending it over to you...I have nowhere near the talent needed to accomplish what you have. Great job.
I like the use of the new stretcher. There is a lot of “detail” work with the epoxy. Plus if the puppy cannot get enough chewing…he/she won’t be chewing on epoxy residue.🤗. Thank you for an interesting video, and I look forward to more. Happy Fathers Day! Peace 💫
Thank you. Have a great weekend. Scott
I thoroughly enjoyed your video! I appreciate your showing the two processes. While I would use the newly created piece, I would have to go w/the epoxy putty piece due to my lack of tools and skill level. You’re so calm, patient and thorough. Many thanks!
Thanks for sharing that. I love to hear how viewers would tackle the repair. I appreciate that. Scott
@@FixingFurniture it was such perfect timing for me because I have that exact same repair to make so it was great to have that guidance and options!
I would have started with your option 2 first. Repairing the wood.
And I would have completed the project by purchasing a new set of chairs.
Thanks for a great video.
Thanks for showing both ways to repair. I prefer the new stretcher but cutting the tenon with all those angles would total intimidate me
Alcohol, like rubbing alcohol, or IPA is very good at cleaning fresh epoxy.
Nice work on these tenons, they are compound angles in all directions.
Thanks for the new tip on using alcohol to clean off fresh epoxy. I didn't know that. Glad you enjoyed the woodworking. Cheers. Scott #tip
Przy starych meblach i małych uszkodzeniach lepsze jest łatanie, ale w tym wypadku ma Pan rację, lepiej wymienić element.
Bardzo dobrze wyszło.
Zdrowia i powodzenia życzę.
Agreed. ???????????????????????????
Thanks for the class!
You're welcome. Thank you for being a subscriber and supporting our channel! Scott
Thank you. Not only did you give us options, but you also did a great job teaching us. I agree that sanding would have helped the repair but also would have used the new piece. Having worked in the woodshop in my school, I am a rookie at finish carpentry. I have also used that same type of filler in household projects. Bravo to you!
I like how you spent the time to make the new runner, and thanks for showing us how to repair the original runner, i choose the new one.
Thanks for sharing that and thank you for being a subscriber and supporting our channel! Scott 👍
As a woodworker and a shop full of tools, I’d make a new one as well. Very fine job!
Enjoyed your video with Thomas Johnson very much. Looking forward to more of those.
Exactly what I needed and no special tools!! So glad I found your channel, thank you for this! Liked, subbed & all the rest.
I appreciated the detail of your steps to show how to make the tenon, which I thought to be complex. Your finish insights were also great. Thank you for this video. I'm now a new subscriber!
Scott: if I had the tools I would go the route you took. However, it was most interesting to see what could be done with the epoxy. I love the fact, as an interior designer, I am gaining knowledge to be able to talk to a restorer/refinisher to get the job done professionally for my clients. I enjoy your channel. Carol from California
Glad to hear you found it helpful Carol! Thanks for sharing that. Scott 🇨🇦
Definitely reconstruct rather than restore. Thanks for illustrating the difference.
You’re welcome. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on that. Scott
Both methods are good. I think I would go with the epoxy repair. I think it would be quicker that making a whole new piece. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks for sharing that Glen. Have a great weekend! Scott
Once again you put the artisan in artist for me, thanks for the great video
This video was super helpful to me. I have a similar repair on a kitchen counter height chair. In my case it wasn't the dog but rather the kids standing on the stretcher. I will be doing the replacement approach since the stretcher is cracked pretty badly. Was struggling with the angles of the tenon so watching you was very instructive!
nice job! learned a lot with your teaching approach. I might have tried autobody glazing putty to fill the small imperfections....I have used it before and it works but do not know if it would take the stain perfectly. I did not know about burn in product. thanks.
I prefer the making a new one on this repair, to many inconsistencies on the repaired one. Great video as always.
Thanks for sharing that. Glad you enjoyed the video! Scott
I am a 63 y.o. women with no wood working skills. I inherited a little end table from my deceased parents. They bought it in 1972. This little table reminds me of my childhood. I don't know how to describe it other than it is round with a central support column which fits into another piece of would that is carved from the center into legs. I believe it is mahogany. My Lab puppy thought one of the legs would make a nice snack and gnawed the top of the leg down. Just the top is gone. I do not have any wood working equipment. I want to hire someone to fix this in the hope that they will let me watch them do the repair so I can learn. This was an excellent video to learn how a wood worker would fix my table. I really enjoyed it.
Glad you found it helpful. Thank you for sharing your story. Scott
So glad to see someone keeping those plane blades sharp. I
It is a pleasure to see the plane placed on it’s side!New to your channel.
Thank you very much for showing how a professional tackles a problem like that. I've got a couple inexpensive pieces with damages from a cat scratching them. You've given me some ideas how I can bring them back with a little patience and care. (In the past, I've made repairs with a mix of sawdust and wood glue, sanding and repainting, but the piece I'm looking at is more intimidating damage than I've tackled before. At least it isn't structural.)
I'll take my time and make sure I get the shape right before I paint it. Thanks!
Amazing final result! I have a similar channel where I refinish and restore furniture. Absolutly loves it 🙏🏻
Another great video, Scott! Thanks so much for spending the time, effort and money (those wood epoxy tubes are not cheap!) to show us more than 1 method. As always, your final product looks amazing!! Be blessed!
I have a few pieces with "nibble marks". The new stretcher looks perfect! But if I were doing it I would probably use the filler as it seems easier for a layman.
Excellent and thorough
Glad it was helpful! Scott
Awesome, I learned a lot. You are quite the craftsman and I appreciate your striving for excellence. Liked the maple repair best.
Thanks for the great content. I think I would have tried to router out flat on each side to inlay a new patch. Probably more work than either of your techniques but I always try to save the original wood if I can. Thanks for the great videos, always interesting to see how someone else tackles these challenges
I learn so much watching your videos. Very satisfying too.
Well, I very much like the way You repaired it. The way You used that wax looked funny like soldering wood but in a nice way. Thanks, Mate!
Glad to hear you enjoyed it. Thanks. Scott
Absolutely loved it, Thank you for sharing.
I liked both fixes . I would do the epoxy repair. When can . Otherwise would replace the whole piece . You are very good . Thank you
I would do splines on the original piece, building it up to strength and shape.
This complicate layout was made easy with this video. Thanks.
¡Great master! Ud. siempre nos sorprende con las soluciones en las restauraciones de muebles. Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos y experiencias. Nos enseña que no solo hay una solución para una restauración, solo hay que echar a andar la imaginación y la experiencia. Muy bien explicado y fácil de entender aunque no hablemos el mismo idioma. Felicitaciones, éxitos y saludos.
I don't have a dog, I don't have chairs with stretchers, though I do a bit of woodworking, and loved this repair, Kudos!
Glad to hear you liked it! Scott
Great! Thank you so much! It’s been puzzling to me how to color that epoxy. Been using it on this and that knowing it will always show the repair. This is great info. TYSM!
Liked both fixes.
Very neat indeed, when I was young I used to play with that, I still have some tools yet enough to help me out in my home projects, most kind of you for sharing it with us blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
I’ve always been interested in repairing old furniture like that. That’s pretty cool to see how you did it. My only question is which way is least expensive to repair using the epoxy or actually making the whole stretcher again I know time they say time is money, but if I was to fix it for my own personal use my own furniture is it more cost-effective for me to make a new stretcher or is it more cost-effective to get Epoxy putty and put it on them? That’s what I would like to know . Things are not getting cheaper so I’d think how ever a person can save money that’s the way to go
I enjoyed both the methods of repairing although I preferred the second method since I know I wouldn’t be able to deal with the first method .
Thanks you .
Greetings from Yemen 🇾🇪
I like the one you made better. My question is could you have cut thar piece out and added one in? That might have been less noticabe than rhe epoxy one? Thanks like you videos.
That's a good question Robert. To patch in pieces of wood, that would have been difficult as it was on multiple slides. I guess with 4 different patches, it could be done. Thanks for sharing that thought and thank you for being a subscriber to our channel! Scott
Which stretcher would prove to be the better deterrent to the dog? Hard or soft? Keep the other one as a spare, just in case.
Ah, that's an interesting way to look at it. Fortunately, the customer's dog has grown out of the chewing stage, so it won't be an issue for them going forward. Cheers. Scott
Sorry but can't resist a comment here: Who goes to an upscale carpenter (must be costly too) to repair the piece of wood chewed off by a dog? I could fix it simply by putting some epoxy and fine wood grains and paint with matching color and done with it. But, thanks to the creator of this video who showed the right way to do that fix which is obviously going to be damn costly even over the original price of that Indonesian made chair. And no doubt - it's the finest woodwork!
[Update} I put the above comment before I finished watching your full video where you showed the second option at the end - with epoxy. Sorry. you know "The great people think alike". Hats off to you.
Great information and skill. Thanks
Wow. Magical to see you work. I think it’s important to teach people how to fix things instead of going out to get new stuff with none of the quality of the replaced item. Things are just not made well anymore.
Good job! 👏👏👏 Did you consider using Bondo for the repair? If so, I'd love to know why you chose epoxy instead. Since the stretcher is in tension during use, the filler serves little structural purpose.
Thanks. I don’t use Bondo for wood repair as the colour is an issue. I need a filler that mimics wood so it can be stained and finished to match. If it was painted, that could work. Scott
@@FixingFurniture Thanks for the feedback! Great point. I don't know what I was thinking as this application clearly called for staining. 🤦♂️🤷♂️
Very helpful and clear! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful for you. Cheers. Scott
My experience with epoxy wood filler is that it won’t stain right. I only use it for hidden structural repairs. Acrylic stain? I’m gonna try that. Thanks for the demonstration.
What an awesome project 😃😃
Epoxy filler can be hard to work with,first I would have used instant glue to harden the fibers of the wood where the dog chewed it then used minwax wood filler ,then sanded it smooth finally using mohawk spray toners and blendalls, tocolor the repair .I have 40 years in the furniture repair business, thank you great video
Omg thank you for changing the background music! Always great content thank you
Oh, interesting comment. I love to hear how people react to my editing. Can you tell me more about your thought on the music? Thanks in advance! Scott 👍
I would want to try both just for the experience. Nice work!
Yes, that would be a good learning experience
I wish I found this about 20 years ago.
This type of knowledge is hard to come by, which is why we share these videos. Cheers. Scott
Nice work! How would you repair a kitchen countertop with dog bite damage on the front corner?
If it’s butcher block (solid wood) I would patch in an new piece of wood. If it’s not, I’d replace the counter top. I hope that helps. Scott
Excellent job
Great vedio! Many options. You could use automotive glazing compound for the filling the fine holes. Still it was educational to show as you said the small holes.
Curious, what would charge for repairing? Price for each meathod?
Thanks
I enjoyed your videos, very therapeutic indeed. I would throw the chair away and buy a new one, unless it was an antique
One question I had in mind when you started the epoxy version was how you were going to handle the grain match. From the video, it seems like you ignored it, relying on the dark stain to disguise the mismatch. Is that right?
One trick I've tried with some success is to pencil in some grain lines. This is particularly useful for light stains or when leaving the wood natural. The earlier in the finishing process you add grain lines, the better the effect seems to be. They might disappear when rubbing off stain, though, but you can just reapply them. After patching a half-inch gouge in some red oak with epoxy and penciling in grain lines, my wife couldn't tell where the patch was, even knowing it was there somewhere. You know that if it passes the wife test, it's good!
That’s awesome! Thanks for sharing that #tip
thanks great video, a question : what is the trade mark of the stain you are using?
Great repair. I learned a lot. One question: I've seen a number of videos where the wood worker does not use the stain OR paint directly out of the bottle to avoid the possibility of contamination. What are your thoughts on this process?
Great idea for using metric; it's accurate and easier. Great video.Thank you!!
Glad you like it! Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Also, metric is most likely what the shop that built it was using. If it was an older American or English piece, you might get a more consistent measurement in inches and eights/sixteenths.