I (should say my mom) replaced sooooooo many of those controllers in the 80’s. It came in a plain white box with black lettering. Used to get them at Child World which is where I used to get my Commodore games when I wasn’t swapping floppies with friends. (Shhhhhhh)
The PCB is thicker than the original. You need some sort of spacers or a deeper case. It is just a matter of millimeters - but if you tighten down the case securely either you'll get constant false input/open circuits or damage/dent the microswitches. The shafts, even the 3D printed ones sent with the kit, are not precise enough to hit the very small contact point on the microswitch reliably. The product is high quality and well engineered, and would be great as the base for a DIY home-made stick - but it isn't a good replacement for a stock CX2600 Atari joystick PCB - which is too bad.
Donovan Colbert what are you checking the pcb thickness with? When I measure these I get 1.54mm and the original is 1.55mm. In all the test builds I did I never had any issues. Are you sure you have the pcb seated correctly when installing? It’s best to install it with the joystick down then pcb then bottom. If you want to email me to get this resolved john.commodore4ever@gmail.com
@@commodore4ever The PCBs are the same height - I was wrong. It is that the microswitches sit just a hair taller than the foil domes on my 3rd party CX40 clones. It is just a little difference, but it is enough to cause me problems. I've got one unbranded CX2600 style clone and one Gemini - neither are really a CX40, though... so... the margins may just be enough different to cause my problem.
Donovan Colbert I’m finishing up 2 different designs. They will be stronger and one will have more space between the core and the switches. Hopefully that will fix your issues and help increase compatibility with clones and such. Test printing now so I should have the stl available tomorrow.
I can think of 2 modifications I would do... make the print with nylon, and get rid of those gaps that separate the lower "ring" (that does the pressing of the buttons) from the main shaft. I'm just wondering if this board would fit the Commodore 1311 joysticks... I tried adding microswitches to the boards in mine but it didn't turn out so great because of the height of the buttons I used. :P
In my tests it’s working fine as the pressure needed to work the joystick is much much less BUT I am always looking to improve my stuff so I will be trying other materials.
will be picking a couple of these up soon.
Cool kit!
I (should say my mom) replaced sooooooo many of those controllers in the 80’s. It came in a plain white box with black lettering. Used to get them at Child World which is where I used to get my Commodore games when I wasn’t swapping floppies with friends. (Shhhhhhh)
The PCB is thicker than the original. You need some sort of spacers or a deeper case. It is just a matter of millimeters - but if you tighten down the case securely either you'll get constant false input/open circuits or damage/dent the microswitches. The shafts, even the 3D printed ones sent with the kit, are not precise enough to hit the very small contact point on the microswitch reliably. The product is high quality and well engineered, and would be great as the base for a DIY home-made stick - but it isn't a good replacement for a stock CX2600 Atari joystick PCB - which is too bad.
Donovan Colbert what are you checking the pcb thickness with? When I measure these I get 1.54mm and the original is 1.55mm. In all the test builds I did I never had any issues. Are you sure you have the pcb seated correctly when installing? It’s best to install it with the joystick down then pcb then bottom. If you want to email me to get this resolved john.commodore4ever@gmail.com
@@commodore4ever The PCBs are the same height - I was wrong. It is that the microswitches sit just a hair taller than the foil domes on my 3rd party CX40 clones. It is just a little difference, but it is enough to cause me problems. I've got one unbranded CX2600 style clone and one Gemini - neither are really a CX40, though... so... the margins may just be enough different to cause my problem.
Donovan Colbert I’m finishing up 2 different designs. They will be stronger and one will have more space between the core and the switches. Hopefully that will fix your issues and help increase compatibility with clones and such. Test printing now so I should have the stl available tomorrow.
I've heard that PLA is pretty brittle for the joystick
I can think of 2 modifications I would do... make the print with nylon, and get rid of those gaps that separate the lower "ring" (that does the pressing of the buttons) from the main shaft. I'm just wondering if this board would fit the Commodore 1311 joysticks... I tried adding microswitches to the boards in mine but it didn't turn out so great because of the height of the buttons I used. :P
In my tests it’s working fine as the pressure needed to work the joystick is much much less BUT I am always looking to improve my stuff so I will be trying other materials.
LeftoverBeefcake nylon would be perfect and I already am working on filling that gap. Several test prints are done and I’m working on more.
Website down?
what is the link to your store?
Richard Black www.commodore4ever.net