Hey Steve, you mention that in hindsight you would use a sacraficial fence to cut the original angles, how would you go about doing that without the clamps interfering with the board on edge? Thanks for all your help!
I made one out of some poplar by making two pieces that lay flat against either side of the fence. Then I made four cross pieces that lay across the top of the fence and attached to side pieces with screws. Before driving the second screw on each cross piece, I clamped the side boards squeezing them firmly against the fence. Now I have a sacrificial auxiliary fence that is a snug friction-fit. Could also drill holes in the edge of the face board, and secure with L-shaped bolts.
Cool! Now you might consider pushing your limits by attempting a next-level artisan build of these polyhedra. That would involve applying practical carpentry to their construction. These platonic solids can be put together such that the relations of their angles serve as a perfect model for those which might be required for structural framing. If you think about it for a sec, I bet you could guess which part of a house these polyhedra act as suitable models for.. 😉
Beautifully done! I have been looking for something like this online for almost a year. I have quality tools at my disposal, a professional woodworker has a shop nearby. I really like how you have made the frame section, lightweight and strong. I hope to make each of the solids about 33 inches to 36 inches in diameter. I might make the frame sections a little thicker and narrower, think clamping and wood glue will be enough? I just took a job building the 5 solids and am hoping for a little more detail on the table saw setup and how you got the frame pieces to nest like that. It is hard to hear the beginning of the video. I value your time, if we could talk on the phone or extensively online I would be willing to compensate you in someway. I've made a single star tetrahedron 36" per side length. I tried compound miter cutting pine pieces but by the end my error in angle calculation meant that some tension was internalized fastening the final vertices. Thank you for this video, super helpful. I have to get these built in the next week or so, then they need lights installed and a covering put in place.
Each miter is cut or sanded independently as if making a flat triangle, square, or pentagon. Yes, if the pieces are made accurately then gluing and clamping should be strong enough. If not, you could make pyramids to glue in and reinforce the corners. The icosahedron was the most challenging - larger models are easier to put together. Email me at stevegarrison769@gmail.com and I can help you if needed.
Do you move the fence over another 3/16" (or whatever the thickness is) after each length is cut? I'm sorry, I over think things, I hope I can ask really simple questions.
Yes, move the fence over after each length is cut. Compensate for the kerf of the blade, and that it's at an angle. If you reinforce corners with pyramids, here are those angles: Pyramid bevel angle Tetrahedron 70.529° Cube 54.736° Octahedron 54.736° Dodecahedron 37.377° Icosahedron 37.377°
Dear Steve Garrison, Can you please guide me how to cut the corner of a wooden stick 30x30x250 mm, to create an equilateral triangle and assemble them to become a block of twenty sided (icosahedron) with each face is an equilateral triangle. (60 stick) Thank you so much!
The angle between faces of an icosahedron is 138.19°, so set your bevel on table-saw at (180-138.19)/2 = 20.9° to make your L -shaped pieces (30 of them). Then miter the ends at 60° - your miter saw probably won't go that far, and you'll have to use a disc-sander. Miter each face of the L-shaped wood individually as if you were making flat equilateral triangles.
Hi Steve, Reakky nice work! I have been making the Platonic Solids lately. So far they are all solid - not open frame. I am trying to duplicate your tetrahedron and keep getting it wrong. Cutting the second end sides on the sander produces the wrong angle. Now I notice the wood fence you use has an angled edge. What is that angle? Thanks in advance... Ed
If you're talking about the angle I am thinking of, it is 30°. The miters are cut for each face as if making a flat frame for each face. So half the angle for an equilateral triangle is 30°.
+TanK The angle between faces of an icosahedron is 138.19° (aka dihedral angle) - this will be the angle to use for the edge pieces, so the bevel angle on your table saw should be 20.9°. The ends will be mitered (or rather sanded) one face at a time at an angle 60° from square as if you were mitering an equilateral triangle together from flat wood. The two joint surfaces on each end of each edge piece are not co-planar, and should intersect at the corner of the angled pieces. The table of the sander should be 90° to The sanding disc.
Thank you. The most complex thing is to simplify. I think you have done it.
If you build it...We will watch!!!..It's allways a good day when you learn something something new!!!......Thanks Steve!!!!!.....
I love platonic solids !!!
Loving all of it again Steve
Awesome!
That is really cool
Thanks Steve - good stuff. If you could make your voice a little louder, it would be great.
Awesome! Thanks :D
Why 35.25 degrees on your rip cut? Does that apply to all tetrahedrons regardless of side length?
That gives the angled pieces the correct dihedral angle of 70.5 degrees for a tetrahedron. It would apply for any size tetrahedron.
@@Steve.Garrison this shit's so confusing bruh
OK, now make all the 4-D polytopes. :)
3 is my limit on D's. :)
Hey Steve, you mention that in hindsight you would use a sacraficial fence to cut the original angles, how would you go about doing that without the clamps interfering with the board on edge?
Thanks for all your help!
I made one out of some poplar by making two pieces that lay flat against either side of the fence. Then I made four cross pieces that lay across the top of the fence and attached to side pieces with screws. Before driving the second screw on each cross piece, I clamped the side boards squeezing them firmly against the fence. Now I have a sacrificial auxiliary fence that is a snug friction-fit. Could also drill holes in the edge of the face board, and secure with L-shaped bolts.
Still cool dude ya still cool
Is the angle for cutting the joining points in an octahedron the same as a tetrahedron?
Yes, same as if you were mitering a flat triangular frame.
Cool! Now you might consider pushing your limits by attempting a next-level artisan build of these polyhedra. That would involve applying practical carpentry to their construction. These platonic solids can be put together such that the relations of their angles serve as a perfect model for those which might be required for structural framing.
If you think about it for a sec, I bet you could guess which part of a house these polyhedra act as suitable models for.. 😉
more cheese sir?
@@kjc10 no, no speke englice 😷
@@SineEyed ok I thought you were delegating for a sec
@@kjc10 jaja delele... ok
@@SineEyed 👻
Beautifully done! I have been looking for something like this online for almost a year. I have quality tools at my disposal, a professional woodworker has a shop nearby.
I really like how you have made the frame section, lightweight and strong. I hope to make each of the solids about 33 inches to 36 inches in diameter. I might make the frame sections a little thicker and narrower, think clamping and wood glue will be enough?
I just took a job building the 5 solids and am hoping for a little more detail on the table saw setup and how you got the frame pieces to nest like that. It is hard to hear the beginning of the video.
I value your time, if we could talk on the phone or extensively online I would be willing to compensate you in someway.
I've made a single star tetrahedron 36" per side length. I tried compound miter cutting pine pieces but by the end my error in angle calculation meant that some tension was internalized fastening the final vertices.
Thank you for this video, super helpful. I have to get these built in the next week or so, then they need lights installed and a covering put in place.
Each miter is cut or sanded independently as if making a flat triangle, square, or pentagon. Yes, if the pieces are made accurately then gluing and clamping should be strong enough. If not, you could make pyramids to glue in and reinforce the corners. The icosahedron was the most challenging - larger models are easier to put together. Email me at stevegarrison769@gmail.com and I can help you if needed.
Steve Garrison would you be willing to listen the angles for each of the 5 solids? I am hoping to do them all this professionally..
Angle between faces (dihedral angle)
Tetrahedron 70.5288°
Cube 90°
Octahedron 109.471°
Dodecahedron 116.565°
Icosahedron 138.19°
Do you move the fence over another 3/16" (or whatever the thickness is) after each length is cut?
I'm sorry, I over think things, I hope I can ask really simple questions.
Yes, move the fence over after each length is cut. Compensate for the kerf of the blade, and that it's at an angle. If you reinforce corners with pyramids, here are those angles:
Pyramid bevel angle
Tetrahedron 70.529°
Cube 54.736°
Octahedron 54.736°
Dodecahedron 37.377°
Icosahedron 37.377°
Dear Steve Garrison,
Can you please guide me how to cut the corner of a wooden stick 30x30x250 mm, to create an equilateral triangle and assemble them to become a block of twenty sided (icosahedron) with each face is an equilateral triangle. (60 stick)
Thank you so much!
The angle between faces of an icosahedron is 138.19°, so set your bevel on table-saw at (180-138.19)/2 = 20.9° to make your L -shaped pieces (30 of them). Then miter the ends at 60° - your miter saw probably won't go that far, and you'll have to use a disc-sander. Miter each face of the L-shaped wood individually as if you were making flat equilateral triangles.
Thank you very much! I'm going to try it.
Glad to help. Let me know how it goes.
Hi Steve,
Reakky nice work!
I have been making the Platonic Solids lately. So far they are all solid - not open frame. I am trying to duplicate your tetrahedron and keep getting it wrong. Cutting the second end sides on the sander produces the wrong angle. Now I notice the wood fence you use has an angled edge. What is that angle?
Thanks in advance...
Ed
If you're talking about the angle I am thinking of, it is 30°. The miters are cut for each face as if making a flat frame for each face. So half the angle for an equilateral triangle is 30°.
Thanks Steve. That makes perfect sense... I'll try and let you know.
I set up the angle on the disc sander with a 30° drafting triangle between the fence and abrasive.
isn't quadri the designation for four? why do we use tetra instead?
Tetra is Greek, and quadri is Latin
Hi mate... If you have a spare moment, can you please give me the angles for an icosahedron... Thanks
+TanK The angle between faces of an icosahedron is 138.19° (aka dihedral angle) - this will be the angle to use for the edge pieces, so the bevel angle on your table saw should be 20.9°. The ends will be mitered (or rather sanded) one face at a time at an angle 60° from square as if you were mitering an equilateral triangle together from flat wood. The two joint surfaces on each end of each edge piece are not co-planar, and should intersect at the corner of the angled pieces. The table of the sander should be 90° to The sanding disc.
+Steve Garrison Thanks mate