Metal Roof- Best Practice Details
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
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I wanted to learn more about that robot. Like, he teased it and then just glossed over it. I haz a sad
most people roofers hand swage the seams. when risinger referred to a "double lock", i don't know whether than means a 90 degree swage of 180 degree swage. both are labor intensive when done manually, with the 180 degree swage requiring 2 passes. in addition, hand swaging 24 gauge steel is difficult enough, but probably ridiculously difficult on an 8/12 roof pitch.
It’s called a power seamer. Not a robot though lol! www.stortz.com/product/freund-seaming-pro-preorder/
@@robertunversaw it is a robot, which some people call a "power seamer". a robot is a machine that automates processes done by humans. the term "robot" is more commonly used in europe.
Search electric standing seam machine. They've been around at least 35 years. So has the pan forming machine. About $4000.00 new for seamer.
People made fun of my tin roof. Guess who didn't need a new roof in the last 6 years after the last 3 hail storms and high winds from a tornado. I had a large branch fall on the house. No real damage. Couple scratches. Guy down the street had a hole thru his ceiling and roof. He came and asked me about metal roofs after that and I helped him put one on his house too. Metal roofs FTW.
fkn legend
Do you get a lot of noise when it rains?
I hear you. Over here we have a lot of trouble with an invasive species: racoons. They tend to wreck through simple bitumen covered garden shed roofs like a hot knife through butter. So many of my neighbors in the "garden colony" have to repair their roofs almost every year. Except for those that choose a tin roof like me. And it's not even that expensive. I bought the "eco-friendly" high priced version and even then it was only €35/m² ($4/sqft) including work and taxes.
Survived two hailstorms without a scratch before I even had a chance to sheet the walls.
I try to advocate metal roof. Everyone make fun
steel roofs are the way to go!
I bet Kyle at @RR Buildings would love that metal forming trailer
I wonder if he will more to those cool vented ridge caps pieces
My roofer had one and told me what it cost 10 years ago - it was NOT cheap! Coil of metal was over 100K too he said! Whipped a roof out fast though and was done in hours vs a full day - love it!
Matt:
Talking about all the ways he is reducing heat with this roof.
Also Matt:
I have a black roof! YOLO! lol
I'm also confused by facing the reflecting side of the radiant barrier down, not facing the radiant source..
Black conducts heat but with radiant down heat doesnt transmit through. Still though...
Why the heck would he do everything he has done for energy efficiency then put a black roof on? Also metal roofs with that air pocket behind it will dent like crazy in hail storms.
@@aintquitewright1480
Well on the bright side I have only seen it hail one time down here. :p
(and it was pretty slushy by the time it hit the ground)
but yah..... it seems very few people these days realize black absorbs heat.
I have been to many places and have never seen so many people wearing black cloths.......
@@lgl_137noname6 He didn't explain it.... but kinda sounded like that was a mistake.
I guess he wanted to save time and/or money and is just going to leave it facing down.
Like Brad Gaeth, I'm wondering how you did all your vents. The attic is conditioned, and we've seen the interior of the attic in other shows, so we can tell know you didn't cut corners and vent to the attic :-). I was watching the eves for vents, but didn't see what I guessed might be there. I think a separate show on venting best practices would be well received. In my upcoming project, I'll have a metal roof, and I'm wondering how to do combustion and exhaust air, as well as DWV.
We were supposed to talk about cost...😔
I'm considering a similar roof insulation. I don't understand why you still need an air gap when everything is sealed up so tight...wouldn't you just make sure water can't get in by sealing the ridge cap? I don't see any way water can penetrate the metal roof and if you can keep it out, there is no need for air gap/venting right? I'm for being cautious, but I have to be able to justify the extra time and expense when I just don't see any way to trap water in there. Can you explain this more?
I think it's because the metal roofing material causes condensation of the air from the outside which form water beads on the underside of the metal ?
In my opinion, adding ventilation behind your metal roof is an excellent idea. I never understood that we vent the wall, but not the roof when you receive all you water on it. Take care Matt!
I think it all depends whether your addic is conditioned or non conditioned/vented. In Matt's case having a vapour barrier on the inside of the roof rafters it makes sense, but if you have a ventilated truss addic, not sure if you really have to as long as you use a decent underlay?
@@vik6980 I think adding a vent between the roof and the plywood would reduce water pressure. Therefore, reducing risk of leakage.
how does this affect oil canning though as well as manufacture application recommendations of applying directly to sheathing?@@ducagace1390 trying to figure out how to accomplish this now with conditioned attic and the place we are getting the roof says manufacturer recommends applying directly to the sheathing yet not sure what happens with condensation etc
Great video, would be interested in why a black roof was chosen rather than a lighter coloured one, would it not get excessively hot in the Texas summers?
Outside of paint degradation, my bet is that because of the ventilation behind it and all the insulation under that it does not have a significant impact on heat energy transfer into the home.
Without ventilation, all that energy would go through the insulation. However, the high temperature variance between the well insulated home and hot metal roof will generate circulation through the ventilation system.
Great point on the drip edge, Tom Silva always uses a thumbs width away from the fascia, to avoid the water getting stuck in between the two and causing rot.
as risinger stated in the video, usually you are going to slide the gutter behind the drip edge. in risinger's case, the cor-a-vent acted as a spacer.
@@paperwait9611, Agree, most just use a gutter or don't. Just make sure your drip edge is 1/2''-5/8'' off the fascia to prevent a capillary situation.
Aluminum fascia damn you people and your exposed fascia !! 😘
I bet this house would easily cost $500 per square foot if someone had to pay full price for all of the materials. I would love to have a house built with these materials and specs, but there is not a chance I could afford it.
I bet the roof alone costs more than the average home in the U.S. which is 374k.
@@borderwave2 ^ ok boomer
@@borderwave2It probably did with all the junk mesh and furring strip debacle. Waist of time and money. Seam is meant to be applied directly to deck/substrate.
@@peterparker9286 yes I am wondering about all the stuff he is recommending laying on top of the sheathing when as I understand the manufacturers recommend applying directly to sheathing. I wonder if this will cause oil canning with putting stuff between. BUT I am also trying to avoid condensation issues with applying directly to sheathing with a conditioned attic
@@bellaherna1Yes More oil canning. Need a good substrate A wood deck. I have put fields of standing Seam down. Use backer rod or low gloss paint to cut down on oil canning.
Why wouldn’t all the condensation from the metal roof not rot the 1 x 4 strips?
Your kids are gonna be out of college by the time you finish this house
Home is already done.
@@johnwayne2103 how do u know?
@@user-dr2pg8fk2i real rebuild
Well one of the boys will want to live in the attic
Wasps will love that drip edge spacer..
It would be great to see some details on the Coravent and installation.
Aren’t you worried about the roof deck breathing? It seems like that could be the downside to ice and water shield in the whole thing
It was good to be back on the jobsite with you talking metal, Matt! Looking forward to the next project! -Thad
I recently did a metal roof - there's no way, given aesthetic parameters, I'd recommend installing anything else in the future.
@Ganga Din you can get any color you would ever want and it's all personal preference but galvalume would look good on a farm-style build.
@Ganga Din do you think that asphalt shingles (which the vast majority of people have on their roofs) *don't* get hot?
black solar panels would actually blend in quite well.
@Ganga Din Yeah, as Dave Wenzel said - you can get a huge range of colors. I have a friend who finished up, before lumber prices went ballistic, some multi-family (apts./condos) spec. 'houses' and the demand for that rough galvalume repurposed look far exceeded anything I could have imagined. But, as far as using metal - I'm a 100% convert and if you do it yourself the costs are not that much greater.
@@paperwait9611 I don't think he was suggesting Asphalt shingles don't get hot - I think he was suggesting that in the realm of metal roofing black runs hotter. Many, perhaps all, major metal sales companies will say the same thing of metals - lighter colors are better in certain climates. Irrespective, one nice thing metal has over Asphalt is far less mass (something like 80% lighter)....I'm not sure what the construction sciences term is for it but a metal roof will 'shed' that heat MUCH faster.
Big ups to the producers, the quality of the shooting and the editing work on this one is really good. Nice work y'all!!
3:48 the face that Matt gives his subs when they've not done quality work. Thanks for the explanation from Sheffield for the different finishes, and explaining the details on all things needed for a great roofing system.
You and R&R buildings did a couple of shows about post and metal buildings. But, you do a lot of shows about perfect wall construction. With building supplies getting expensive, can you do an episode about how one might go about perfect wall in a post-frame steel building?
'Don't say "bomber", you're not a tween.' Some hilarious commenter in a previous video.
As a solar business owner with over 40,000 installations, I’ll say we always get excited when we can work with standing seam. Its the best roof type for solar and makes far far more sense than solar roof tiles or punching holes in a 3 tab
Being able to just clamp onto the roof without needing to worry about sealing holes is a huge perk of standing seam. That by itself has been enough to make me look closer at it. The decades long lifespan (assuming it's been installed correctly) makes it even more attractive.
Any experience dealing with weird roof shapes? I've seen a lot of newer houses that seem determined to have as many rooflines as possible, and it makes anything other than asphalt a real pain in the neck.
I like a dark roof myself, but I"m surprised to see it on your house after all the insulating and air sealing. It's seems like an oxymoron.
That air gap and the reflective membrane is going to more than negate any gains caused by the dark colored paint.
@@kevinhornbuckle that's hard to say for sure. It's crazy how hot a black roof can get in the sun.
He also wants the solar panels to blend in. Architectural style will always trump building science, “the greenest roof is a white roof”. I’ve been installing double lock for 8 years and never once installed a white roof!
@Ganga Din That is what I installed on my house. My neighbors thank me for brightening their kitchen.
@@mitchelljoyce I just put a metallic flake (silver) coupled with radiant barrier snap lock roof on my own home with pure bi facial (two sided) panels and IQ8 inverters paired with enphase batteries. After running the conduit through the attic we did 3” spray foam on the underside of the roof This is the most energy efficient roof setup and the best possible technology available at least until 2023.
- a solar business owner with over 40,000 installs.
I should post some videos the home is a hybrid barndominium/shipping container design
Im so going to make a architect watch all Matts videos on his own house to design my home! With the addition of a interior above ground tornado shelter!
eh, matt isn't the best. he usually solves problems by doing the most complicated and expensive way. sometimes the slight gain for the increase in cost/efficiency isn't worth it. also, keeping all of the different shapes, dormers, level changes, etc, out of the roof will save your more time, money, and effort than anything matt does.
Matt:
Please provide a close up photo of how your metal roofing is attached to the roof sheathing.
Thank you!
The cost is key decision factor. In the beginning cost was stated as one of goals of this video. Can you tell us the cost?
Costs vary depending on your location, size of the project, construction site access, moon phase, season...best thing to do, if you are doing a project, is to get a "budget estimate" from an installer in your area.
After yesterday’s hail storm, I’m looking into metal roofing. Perfect timing.
I’ve been installing metal roofs on the houses that I build not exclusively, but mostly over the last 15 years I’ve been in business. I’ve never once had hail damage. On the other hand I’ve seen lots of asphalt roofs to get replaced around me
I have corrugated galvalum, (a steel and aluminum composite).
@@buildshow did you Forget ? I thought you were going to give us pricing? Thx
@@nixaeagle141 this. He lied to us all
@@buildshow I’ve been waiting to see this part of the construction phase of your house. I was hoping you would explain the best practice details for the flashing from the siding to the metal roof.
I understand and love the nice air flow system you have going on but I’m shocked that you didn’t get striations 🤯. Oil caning is REAL. Striation are needed to prevent the metal from looking wavy.
@Matt Risinger You have mentioned a few times about limiting roof penetrations. It appears you have one pipe/flue penetrating the roof. What is that pipe for and what other design challenges did you have with the others pipes wanting access to the outdoors up top? What kind of compromises did you have to make to limit the number of penetrations?
Dude what did you spend on this house..............
Wait! Reflective side down? I still don’t get it. As far as I know it’s always reflective side up, with an air gap above, to reflect that radiated heat out.
Facing down is fine, and should work just as well.
This is because an object with high reflectivity must also have a low ability to radiate thermal energy, a.k.a. emissivity _(pseudo-explanation at the end)._ If you look up the emissivity of something shiny like aluminum foil, it's around 0.04. This means it only radiates only 4% of what a perfect thermal radiator _(a.k.a. blackbody)_ would emit at the same temperature, which gives the same effect as if the radiant barrier was installed face-up on the other side of the air gap and reflected 96% of the radiant energy from the roofing metal.
The amount of radiant energy an object in thermal equilibrium absorbs is equal to the amount it is able reradiate, also known as its emissivity. It has to be, otherwise it wouldn't be in thermal equilibrium, and would instead be either heating up or cooling down. If you ignore transmitted radiant energy _(i.e. you're looking at something that is essentially nontransparent, like a radiant barrier)_ then the reflected energy and absorbed energy must total 100%. Because absorbed energy must be the same as emitted energy _(thermal equilibrium),_ you end up with a relationship where reflectivity goes up when emissivity goes down, and vice versa, _(assuming nontransparent objects)._ I know this isn't really an explanation of the underlying physics, but hopefully it is still helpful.
Another way to help with understanding this is to look at what would happen if it wasn't true; heat would flow more easily in one direction than another, and you'd get infinite cooling or heating depending on the installation.
@@ergohack Whoa! Thanks for the explanation. Gonna need time to digest this.
@@davidg5010 Sorry bud, but the experts disagree with you on this one. I suggest doing a bit more reading on this.
Here is a link to start you off: web.ornl. gov/sci/buildings/tools/radiant/
_(You'll have to remove the space in the link to make it work, the spam filter on this channel seems to catch links)_
(Edit)
This page clearly describes radiant barriers working in both directions; in one direction by reflecting "heat", and in the other by reducing "heat" radiated from the surface of the barrier.
@@davidg5010 I'm just going to copy and paste the part that you likely didn't read if you think that article agrees with you. Pay special attention to the part I've bolded.
_How are radiant barriers installed in a residential attic?_
_Radiant barriers may be installed in attics in several configurations. The simplest is to lay the radiant barrier directly on top of existing attic insulation, with the reflective side up. This is often called the attic floor application._ *Another way to install a radiant barrier is to attach it near the roof. The roof application has several variations. One variation is to attach the radiant barrier to the bottom surfaces of the attic truss chords or rafter framing. Another is to drape the radiant barrier over the tops of the rafters before the roof deck is applied. Still another variation is to attach the radiant barrier directly to the underside of the roof deck.*
_How do radiant barriers work?_
_Radiant barriers work by reducing heat transfer by thermal radiation across the air space between the roof deck and the attic floor, where conventional insulation is usually placed. All materials give off, or emit, energy by thermal radiation as a result of their temperature. The amount of energy emitted depends on the surface temperature and a property called the "emissivity" (also called the "emittance"). The emissivity is a number between zero (0) and one (1). The higher the emissivity, the greater the emitted radiation._
_A closely related material property is the "reflectivity" (also called the "reflectance"). This is a measure of how much radiant heat is reflected by a material. The reflectivity is also a number between 0 and 1 (sometimes, it is given as a percentage, and then it is between 0 and 100%). For a material that is opaque (that is, it does not allow radiation to pass directly through it), when the emissivity and reflectivity are added together, the sum is one (1). Hence, a material with a high reflectivity has a low emissivity, and vice versa. Radiant barrier materials must have high reflectivity (usually 0.9, or 90%, or more) and low emissivity (usually 0.1 or less), and must face an open air space to perform properly._
_On a sunny summer day, solar energy is absorbed by the roof, heating the roof sheathing and causing the underside of the sheathing and the roof framing to radiate heat downward toward the attic floor. When a radiant barrier is placed on the attic floor, much of the heat radiated from the hot roof is reflected back toward the roof. This makes the top surface of the insulation cooler than it would have been without a radiant barrier and thus reduces the amount of heat that moves through the insulation into the rooms below the ceiling._
*Under the same conditions, a roof mounted radiant barrier works by reducing the amount of radiation incident on the insulation. Since the amount of radiation striking the top of the insulation is less than it would have been without a radiant barrier, the insulation surface temperature is lower and the heat flow through the insulation is reduced.*
@@davidg5010 The orientation and function work the same, its just that here you have a ¾" air gap rather than a 10' air gap.
Google, or your other search engine of choice, is your friend. I'm not about to go doing that for you, when you clearly don't want to hear it. The link I gave is more than sufficient to help someone who is willing to learn, A.K.A. the occasional internet person who stumbles on this comment.
I'm trying to design a similar roof on my future house and like the idea of air ventilation under the roof. I had originally thought that furring strips would be the way to go but my roof will only be 1:12 and 2:12 pitch. Therefore I may use the ventilation underlayment mentioned in the video. Does anyone know if the roof can be walked on once the metal is installed? Or will it result in the roof deforming/bending because of the underlayment? Nothing lasts forever so someone will eventually have to get up on the roof--I just want to make sure it doesn't deform.
I would appreciate an answer to this question as well
The corrugated plastic is commonly referred to as Coroplast but that is really the largest brand name like klenex is. I bet coravent would not like you to call it that tho.
I didn't go back and double check but didn't he refer to it as plastic cardboard? If I wasn't already familiar I would have been very confused expecting some kind of paper plastic composite lol. I get where he was going but corrugated plastic would have sufficed
Matt, I am looking to install a metal roof -- using steel or aluminum "shakes" -- I like your idea of allowing air-flow under the metal roofing. I also think that the 1x4 on a steep roof is quite clever and they 45 degree angle is an amazing twist.... Question = what was done at the eves and rakes with the 1/4? is there a product used at the eve to fit between the 1x4's or it that the plastic strips you show in the video that are nailed to the barge board prior to the install of the drip edge/caps? For the rake is there a 1x4 that runs parallel to the rake for the full length of the rake edge? Last question, how far apart are the 1x4's spaced? Great video -- I hope you see my questions and answer soon... Retired Person in KY
also curious about spacing, looks about 36"-48" on center
1. How does the mesh stay lofted when you screw the metal down? 2. How do you not destroy all of the benefits of the metal roofing by perforating it with screws?
Ice Guard installed onto the eaves (overhangs) is to be wrapped onto fascia and continue at least 2' past the exterior wall and over the heated space beneath. In other words: not just 3 or 4 feet "up the roof" it all depends on how big your overhangs are. When you are dealing with open porches for example you may need 8-10' of Ice Guard or more
Out of all the variety of channels I watch on UA-cam, I always learn and take something away from yours. Thank you for such good informative channel.
I would have expected integrated solar panels into roofing tiles from Matt 😆
Tesla didn't sponsor the show, or give Matt any free solar tiles, so Matt won't be using their product
@@cyclopsvision6370 Honestly doing the roof like this is a better option for Matt. I see this house as a training exercise for the next passive house his team builds. It is better to work with partners that will support you along the along the way with things like installation training.
Solar panels are always changing and improving. A metal roof last 50+ years, while most solar panel systems expire or become obsolete within 30 years. It just doesn't make sense to integrate the two as a single system.
I'm in Florida and ye been warned that those S-5-n connectors are great and I have used them myself, but since they are not connected directly to the rafter engineers are requiring them 16-32 inch on center in high wind areas. In fact Maimi Dade is about to change wind requirements to 170mph and these may not meet the requirement. Just be prepared to install A LOT of them if you are using a rail system. The S-5 can also be used directly to panel w/o rail, but it does not provide enough space between the roof and rear panel and is believed to shorten the life of the panel and may be against fire code.
@@karthik11512 If Matt really wanted to go passive, he would have Tesla's solar roof, and 3 powerwalls, and use geothermal for heating and cooling. It doesn't get more passive and energy efficient than Tesla's solar roof and geothermal, especially in Texas, with lots of sun exposure
@@cyclopsvision6370 thank god he was wise enough to use those tiles. Weve made an outrageous amount of money fixing warranty claims on the solar roof
Just outside of Austin city limits where some hail just hit recently. I would love to get a new metal roof with all the venting details. It would likely help with heat in the summer compared to my current asphalt roofing especially with my poorly insulated vaulted ceiling.
Very nice prep work bfore the double seam roof Matt. 👍👏
To bad the double seam work is kinda porly done, not that final touch that we do all the time in northern europe.
This looks lika a DIY job overhere sorry to say.
If you use open cell spray foam insulation you are introducing moisture
to the underside of the roof deck. If you use an ice and water
underlayment that moisture cannot get thru the roof sheathing to be
carried away thru ventilation. How are you then venting the roof to
prevent degradation of the roof deck?
I started watching this video that you recommended but it ended up leading to more questions than answers :) - also - the way he is doing it is cost prohibitive!
@@bellaherna1 Try this one. Ventilation under metal roofs is important. You can pay me now or pay me latter in regards to what you do.
if water gets under the metal how does it flow out? it seems like the diagonal boards would soak it up and the drip edge would work to keep it under the metal.
Looks like common sense to me. This roof is a disjointed conglomeration of good ideas that add up to a shit job.
If you want a cool roof. The best practice for the South is a White Roof. Certainly Not Black. Sorry but that is a Bomber mistake Matt.
I love metal roofs. My favorite color looks like dark cow dung. I think that color is an attempt to make it look like burnished copper, but I am not sure. Whatever the name of the color, I would say it looks like medium dark bronze color with a hint of green thrown into the mix. It gives a house a really organic natural look.
Burnished slate is the color
Been doing metal roofs for 10yrs.
Can you do an illustration of all the layers of your roof? Zip, foam, peal&stick, 1x4, air gap, Radiant, metal roof… oh my! That’s a lot of layers!
Metal roofs are fine but why increase the temperatures affecting your roof by choosing black. That can not be optimal. The ventilated construction will help but still.
Great roof. But what the deuce? Black metal roof in Texas? Black?
Elsewhere in the comments he says he has an upcoming video on that.
Here I have confusion about ai foil, ai foil-faced downwards side here but as I know it should face towards sky side because ai will reflect 97% of the RH. (radiant Heat)
the air gap is mandatory. I don't doubt it, but he can face that ai foil towards sky side but he didn't, why? Is there any specific reason?
Don't say emissivity will work here. :P
As I know for heat, it faces towards the sky side, for a cold its face towards the downside...
and it is single-sided ai foil :(
If you had a dirty mind and we’re listening closely, you could not stop laughing third of an inch deck dry gap lots of meat to screw into got dimples on my shark skin
With all due respect my main man 50 that’s what me and my girl call him cause he’s 50 he likes to stretch kick and stretch cause he’s 50 looks pretty good for 50+ I watch all your videos at least once and incorporate anything I can afford into my projects. Thank you Billlllllllllldtttt!!!!!!!!!!Sssss. Hoe
Plus, he was screwing his feet and cautious about it. I’m pretty sure he’s up to code to his neck and code.
Surprised you didn't get a Tesla Solar roof... probably could have pulled that request off.
What about issues with oil canning? We recently used a panel almost exactly like yours for exterior wall cladding, but we had a terrible problem with oil canning. What is best practice in regards to oil canning?
There's really nothing to be done. Its just the nature of metal panels b/c of expansion and contraction. When we get metal panels the warranty information specifically says that there is nothing they can do about oil canning, it is not a defect, and it is not covered under warranty.
Darker colors show oil canning more. The more vertical a panel, the more it shows as well.
It's a THING OF BEAUTY, Matt. LUV all the close-up details. Such exquisite craftsmanship!
Thanks Paul!
@@buildshow how much of a difference does that radiant barrier make. Would you notice it if it wasnt there?
If you're going to have any holes in the roof it should be for your solar. Check out Zilla for your solar penetration. S-5! have the best mounting brackets, good choice there.
Matt, with lumber prices moving to insanely high levels are you feeling pressure to move towards ICF builds? Would be interested to hear your take on the lumber market impacting construction costs and how it is affecting your clients/builds.
Tesla solar shingles install someday?
What kind of idiot would ever put a black roof on a house? Especially in Texas.
White would have been a far better color. You'll be dive-bombed by birds unloading from 300 ft in the air. So that the black roof absorbs high amounts of heat then releases it into the atmosphere, heating the environment. That's an extremely bad idea. A black roof with white speckles everywhere! Waaaahahaha!!!!!
@@spacescatatford On top of that, you wouldn't have needed that infrared-reflective material underneath.
@buildshow I've listened to this episode a few times. What is the lbs/sqft needed for this roof system? I see a sandwich of zip 5/8, 2x2" polyiso, zip 5/8, which is toped with peel-n-stick, batten strips, standing seam roof panels.
Would love to see a section view of this roof down to the first layer of sheathing, has to be 12 layers of materials?
Hi Matt!! So did anything happen to your roof after the hail storm that just hit the Austin area? Any advice on what we should look for and do when we replace our shingle roof’s after a storm like that?
Why Black? That mother is going to be a stove top in Texas summers.
Fansastic video!
I thought code required R38 in a roof or some such. You have only R20.
Hi Matt
I have a question. I live in Northern Ont. I have a 3 season log cabin kit. My roof is beams & tongue & groove boards on top.
I have GAF membrane to cover whole roof. Can't afford spray foam. Can I use Rockwool Insulation under my metal roof?
And if so what is the procedure?
If you do this vented drip edge detail, I can guarantee you that you will get condensation dripping out of the the Cor-a-vent in the north, and likely intermittently in the south too. You will see it running down the fascia and onto the surfaces below -- not a big deal if over plantings/grass, but it will be a call-back issue if there is a deck or other hard surface like a patio there. And no, the gutter will not catch this if you have not prepared for this. If you have prepared for this, you would need to add a Z-shaped "kick-out strip" made from the same metal as the roof that would get installed onto the fascial as the first step of the roofing process. This kick-out strip will direct this condensation that happens under metal roofs, into the gutter. It gets nailed onto the top of the fascia, and then taped into the roof deck before the Ice-and-water goes on THEN you do the rest of the roofing detailing as described in the video. "HOW DO I KNOW!?" I've made this mistake before!
Let's see ... solar reflectance - black 25%, galvalume 40%, white 60%.
Why use the worst color possible in the Texas sun? That radiant barrier is not going to make up for the sheer amount of solar energy being absorbed.
Big mistake! You should have Tesla roof installed.
Anything made of plastic or polymer will fail over time with heat and UV rays. FACT. Taped joints will fail when the adhesive backing becomes brittle and fails too. FACT.
Why didn't "t you put the radiant barrier facing up where you installed diagonal 1x4s? Isn't that the 3/4" air gap side., or does the foil work when upside down too?.
"Let's Get Going" - Standing seam metal roof is the most solar friendly roofing with the S-5 connector.
Matt, in the beginning of the video you said you were going to talk price. I think you missed that part.
😬
You'd think in Texas for Energy and Environment issues you'd have chosen a white or light roofing color - reflecting heat back away from the earth and your building. It's Code in some California municipalities - understanding the design for your color, of course.
The first detail that should have been addressed is the choice of black roofing in Texas. Lol
Stay tune for a video in a week or two about my black metal and whether that’s a dumb choice for Texas or not. Hopefully you saw my rooftop insulation details. My roof is R-60 on this house!
My first thought!! It's not just the heat to your house. I've read that whole cities are recommending white roofs to reflect heat and reverse the heat island effect in their city.
DeMe, to go with your statement i read an article not too long ago. Miami is going to cut down a massive amount of their iconic palm trees and replace them with trees that provide more shade. The idea being to reduce heating of sidewalks, roadways, and so on and reduce the heat soak throughout the city.
@@buildshow It would be very cool if you'd consider creating content helping people build tiny homes. There are a lot of struggling people.
@@buildshow Ever see what the sun does to black paint on cars that sit uncovered their whole lives?
Hi, I'm Matt Risinger, and here's my one-hundred-thousand-dollar, ten-layer roof!
risinger is using his remodel as a kind of sponsorship showcase for different product vendors to display their wares. unlike some, i personally have no objection to it. infomercials can provide useful information.
i look forward to the solar install
FACE palm. the radiant barrier should be installed first, THEN the spacer material (1x4, or that fabric like stuff) and then the metal roof on top of the spacer. the way you laid it down is a total waste. it will do nothing.
That paint/coating would last much longer if it was painted after rolling. Even Kynay and other epoxy coatings have their limits over time when the receive mechanical stress.
Fluropon chalcis out within a year or two.
What about striations? On a previous video, it was stated how important it was to choose panels with striations but it looks like you chose a flat pan style. Do you have any opinions on this? I'm building my house soon and this would help me a lot in my choice of metal roof! Thank you!
striations reduce oil canning, he would have had less oil canning if the would have double locked each panel before installing the clips and next panel. The difference is cosmetic
For anyone who is wondering: Matt is indeed right. It doesn't matter which way you put on the radiation barrier, as long as the reflective side faces the air gap.
At first I thought he put it on the wrong way, so I looked it up. An ideal reflective body (which does not exist) will neither absorb, nor emit any thermal radiation. In his case, the radiation barrier will get hot due to thermal conduction, but it will not radiate into the air gap, because of the highly reflective surface. This even works the other way around, because any thermal radiation coming from the inner part of the roof will be reflected back.
The air gap itself however will do almost nothing to remove heat by ventilation. There is so much friction due to the small size of the gap, that there will be no meaningful air flow. That's why it is smart to use a radiant barrier, because this way the air gap can provide at least some thermal insulation.
Doesn’t the air gap make the metal more susceptible to hail damage? Is the air gap necessary, why would you have moisture under a metal roof? Seems like you shouldn’t need the drying of the roof is doing its job.
Alls I really wanted to see was all the roof-to-wall flashing, and the flashing details wear a facia board buts into a wall. Some of most crucial parts of making that roof water tight. Didn't see any of those details covered, what a shame... A whole video could be made on just the roof flashing details alone.
Some people can't read drawings. To them, a picture or a video is worth a thousand words.
That's what I wanted to see. Making a water tight roof is probably 95% flashing work. Any idiot can be taught to lay panels or nail shingles in one day. The real work is in the flashing details.
We would have had a receiver flashing made that goes on before any siding product.
The siding comes down over it and leaves an S channel exposed for us. After the panels go on, Z-bar with butyl tape would be screwed to the top of the panels. Anywhere a panel meets a side wall we turn up an inch with the panel as extra protection.
Face flashing would hook onto the Z-bar and the top of it would be screwed into the wall right under the receiver flashing.
A counter flashing would then go into the S-bend on the receiver flashing and cover over the top of the face flashing.
At least, that's how I was taught to do it. I've seen other people make an all in one flashing that goes on before the panels and they just slide under it. It is vastly inferior in my opinion to the way we do it. Driving rain, bugs, and animals can all get under it. It really sucks at side walls b/c you're strictly relying on your 1 inch turn up to make it water tight, which it isn't.
There was a company that came into our town and basically took over the market. That's how they did their flashing details. A contractor we worked for dropped us and started using them. About 3-4 years later they start giving us work again. We ended up going to every single house they built in those 3-4 years and had to fix every damn one of them. Luckily it was just front porches and accent stuff, not entire roofs. Just shoddy workmanship all around.
With a black roof and the obvious heat generated, have you thought about capturing the hot air during winter? Maybe it could be directed to a heat exchanger to heat your hot water or house? Might as well use it if you can since you've isolated it from your roof.
Isn't this getting a bit ridiculous in terms of waterproof layers? If I understand it right, he already has two layers of tapped and caulked Zip and now a peel and stick. Is the Zip not sufficient for waterproofing?
I just don't understand the overbuilding. Metal roofs should not leak - ever. Putting on a peel and stick just makes a leaky metal roof a bad investment. Zip is all you really need. Peel and stick is way over the top in money and wasted materials. Properly installed metal roofs will last 100 years and have never needed rain screens or peel and stick.
great info! could you take a closer look at the details for the skylights? the example on my roof is more so how not to do it...
also any recommendations on how to tie in once a metal roof is installed on high pitch area?
the flashing on the skylights was done incorrectly on this roof as well
@@briarg1485 any details why/how?
After watching many videos on metal roofing I have decided that there is no way I will put a metal roof on my home. There appears to be too many shady or ignorant or otherwise crappy materials/and or inept installation companies to take a chance on this very expensive alternative to regular shingles. Who knew this would be more complicated than the proverbial rocket sciences.
Best build practices?? I find it hard to believe in black roof and hot sunny Texas would be a best build practice.
My R60 roof. Then ventilation plus Radiant Barrier allows me to choose Black without much penalty.
@@buildshow The penalty is for what you could of had.
Sorry Matt, but Joe said to build attics a long time ago. More complicated assemblies just miss the point.
there is a few things wrong with your install. yes the shark skin is a vary god product but, you never a want to use 100% ice shield on your roof. it dos not allow the roof subdeck to breath this leads to dry rot of the subdeck. here in my state 100% ice shield will not pass code because of that resin. 2. is the style of ridge vent you used. has to small of a perforations and gets plugged vary fast so after the first 6-12 months it is useless. that's if the insolation company do not plug it up first.
Bravo, for the air gap. Bravo, for radiant barrier, shiny side down; you're gonna need it because that black metal will heat up on sunny days to a very high temperature; but the radiant barrier will block irradiation of lower elements... to the extend that conduction does not defeat the radiant barrier.
I don't understand the logic behind installing "shiny side down". The natural reflective property of a reflective surface facing a heat source across an air space allows the
aluminum surface to reflect radiant heat back to the direction from which it came. If it's facing down, how is it working?
Noise: anyone have experience installing this roof with added mass vinyl underneath for noise reduction? We have vaulted ceilings with minimal or no insulation.
I was wanting to see the seaming robot close up. I can imagine the rollers it has to close the seams, but wanted to see it in action. :-(
No solar PV on your roof! It's been belt and braces so far why no solar PV?.. ok just seen the last bit but why not then use PV as your roof covering and have what is known as an in roof PV system rather than on roof. That way your PV is also your waterproof layer so you don't pay twice as such.
Love your channel, but every time i hear lifetime of the building amd then 30 40 years i wonder. Why do you build (in this case) a roof that will only last 40 years? In the netherlands where i am from we build to last way longer. Certanly not 40/50 years
I know right? And they talk about it like it's so great lol.
Gotta factor in cost vs performance. Do you really need a hand seamed copper roof that will last 300 years? Probably not. Most people aren't staying in the same house for even 20 years here. Another factor is that materials, installation processes, and building codes are constantly being updated and improved.
And this roof will last way longer than 40 years. The paint warranty is 40 years. I just replaced a 5-V galvanized steel roof at the beach that was installed in 1946. That's nearly 80 years of life from what is now an inferior roofing product and has been inferior for at least 30 years. If it was further away from the salt water it would last hundreds of years. We went back with a 5-V galvalume coated steel roof with stainless steel capped screws that will definitely last well over 150 years.
When they say it will "last" 40-50 years what they should really say is the manufacturer's warranty is 40-50 years. Its not like on the day of year 41 its going to pack up and leave or something.
In east tx most roofs that blow off you see 1x4 under it catches wind but I’m sure this guy is nailing and screwing the metal down better
Silver, white roof, can reduce the temperature of the room and the earth's climate.
Just my 2 cents
I have watched this a couple times before making decisions for my own house renovation. Questions: 1. Is it a concern to use regular 1 x 4 instead of pressure treated for the spacers? I know it has the ability to dry because of the air space, and Austin probably doesn't have that much rain. Would it be a concern in Northeast US? 2? when screwing in those 1 x 4 to the rafters, i don't see the screw holes being liquid flashed. Would that be a problem in future?
The pressure treating chemicals in the 1x4's may very well be a corrosive issue to the metal roofing panels
I gather that you had to calculate the spacing for your diagonal furring strips to coincide with the screw spacing required for the panels.
Hey Matt, Thank you as always. I wish you would have shown the detail on how the roof air flow mesh meets the upper wall.
How do you use the corrugated plastic to allow the vapor from the roof to vent upwards?
vapours travel through the air space between the underside of sheet metal and the top of the membrane, then escape at the bottom of the assembly and at the top (soffit/ridge). There are continous vents at the soffit/fascia and at the ridge/junctions to vertical walls.
You can like shark skin all you like, but if you are not an influencer, good luck getting any customer service or the product.
Great Video. Have you ever looked at Decra steel roofing?
Sounds like silver side has to be up not down, if heat will be created in the air gap then silver actually will push heat through the deck to inside, I think you f,,up on this