Excellent presentation and invaluable skills imparted. You are an excellent trainer. I have a set of oars which go with my 5m Megin dinghy, which will do well to have the leather treatment. I am ten going to go on and build a 10ft Norwegian Pram and your demonstrated skills will be a useful guide. Thank you very much.
I have used a tiny application of glue under a previously completed set of leathers to stop them wandering on the looms rather than resorting to nails.It seemed to work.This video demonstrates to me why expensive professionally installed leathers are a bargain.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I am in the process of selling a boat with two pairs of Barkley Sound oars that have nailed on leathers,no stitching at all.They don’t seem to have suffered from this method of application after thirty years of use.I am convinced proper maintenance and oar storage has more impact on longevity than anything else.Yes a nail seems appropriate to stop the button from unraveling.
It’s that proper storage and regular maintenance part that as a builder I am constantly assuming won't happen. I always advise people to pay attention to it but I would say few really do. I just do my best to make those activities as easy as I can without increasing the scope of the projects too much.
You're right. I must have had my head screwed on backwards that day. No, I intended it to be just the opposite. I'll let the customer know he has a freebie do-over if they where out. Thanks for catching that.
I was a little confused about the setup of your needles and waxed thread. In the end, it looked like you basically have a loop with two needles. The knot securing the loop is in the middle with needles at opposite ends. Have I got it right? I have a Melonseed sailing/rowing skiff with oars that could use leather on them. Your demonstration was pretty good, I think I understand the process. Thanks.
Since you used Latigo leather the only real good way to clean the edge would be a knife. The other option is sandpaper to knock the edge flat but due to the oils in the latigo it gets really gummy and i dont think the end result would look any better than edges that are slightly off. I personally use veg tanned leather for most my projects and use different finishes on that leather for its intended uses. In this application if you aren't able to access latigo leather where leather will come into contact with water quite often you would want to finish veg tanned leather with an acrylic sealer like resolene. Most other finishes to leather are more permeable to water than acrylic finishes
I should think that the shoe industry adhesives would be very good for this ! Why ? because standard contact adhesive is absolutely crap for repairing shoes !! Thanks for this, I have always wondered how the collar was done. I have seen the sleeve part put on with copper tacks on rental kit.
I used your wood strip templating tip again today to install a counter top. Thank you again.
Glad to hear it’s coming in handy!
Excellent presentation and invaluable skills imparted. You are an excellent trainer. I have a set of oars which go with my 5m Megin dinghy, which will do well to have the leather treatment. I am ten going to go on and build a 10ft Norwegian Pram and your demonstrated skills will be a useful guide. Thank you very much.
My pleasure. Best of luck with your build.
I have used a tiny application of glue under a previously completed set of leathers to stop them wandering on the looms rather than resorting to nails.It seemed to work.This video demonstrates to me why expensive professionally installed leathers are a bargain.
The one nail I do use, in addition to keeping the leather in place, is to ensure the button doesn’t suffer a glue failure at the tail end and unravel.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I am in the process of selling a boat with two pairs of Barkley Sound oars that have nailed on leathers,no stitching at all.They don’t seem to have suffered from this method of application after thirty years of use.I am convinced proper maintenance and oar storage has more impact on longevity than anything else.Yes a nail seems appropriate to stop the button from unraveling.
It’s that proper storage and regular maintenance part that as a builder I am constantly assuming won't happen. I always advise people to pay attention to it but I would say few really do. I just do my best to make those activities as easy as I can without increasing the scope of the projects too much.
Great video. Do you have a rule of thumb for the length of the thread you are using?
Really good question actually. At least six times the length of the leather but I would go for more like eight times for good measure.
I spent the last 15 minutes hoping the client hadn’t also forgotten to mention he was using ring oarlocks.
I always ask that question first. He came back to have buttons added btw.
You end up having the stiches on the back of the oar, where you put all the load against the oar lock when you pull the oar. Is that intended?
You're right. I must have had my head screwed on backwards that day. No, I intended it to be just the opposite. I'll let the customer know he has a freebie do-over if they where out. Thanks for catching that.
I was a little confused about the setup of your needles and waxed thread. In the end, it looked like you basically have a loop with two needles. The knot securing the loop is in the middle with needles at opposite ends. Have I got it right? I have a Melonseed sailing/rowing skiff with oars that could use leather on them. Your demonstration was pretty good, I think I understand the process. Thanks.
Yes, you are understanding the needle arrangement correctly.
Like the harp. Has he got a Leprechaun too?
Did you mention the weight of the leather, I found 6/7oz and10/12oz?
I didnt but these were around 6-8 oz. About 1/8” thick. 10/12 would be better for very heavy oars.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Thx thats very helpful
Since you used Latigo leather the only real good way to clean the edge would be a knife. The other option is sandpaper to knock the edge flat but due to the oils in the latigo it gets really gummy and i dont think the end result would look any better than edges that are slightly off. I personally use veg tanned leather for most my projects and use different finishes on that leather for its intended uses. In this application if you aren't able to access latigo leather where leather will come into contact with water quite often you would want to finish veg tanned leather with an acrylic sealer like resolene. Most other finishes to leather are more permeable to water than acrylic finishes
That’s excellent advice. Thank you so much.
Where do you get your leather from?
I shop around a bit but I often get it from Tandy Leather.
Why not make it look difficult?
I should think that the shoe industry adhesives would be very good for this !
Why ? because standard contact adhesive is absolutely crap for repairing shoes !! Thanks for this, I have always wondered how the collar was done.
I have seen the sleeve part put on with copper tacks on rental kit.
Tacks will certainly work but the lifespan of the oars is likely to suffer if left out in the weather too much. It is a viable alternative though.
10:41. That is not what she said.
That 'is' what she said, but was she telling the truth?!
@@Nomadboatbuilding lol
Oar locks? isn't he a Count? sounds like one of dracula's friends
Magnífico
Very oary and leathery 🤭