What's your opinion? I use two DI tanks in series. Any value to using one with the oldest resin as a "pre filter" with the second in series to "polish" the water at the end?
Hi Kent, I’m really glad you asked. My next DI video will be on this exact subject. I’m still working out my this scenario but hope to have a video uploaded in about a weeks time.
I use the same method, two DI tanks. I used to throw away the old resin, now I use it as a pre filter and I get more homes cleaned this way. I also now track it with an excell spread sheet with clients name , Sqft and TDS. I track the TDS coming out of the home and after I clean a home coming out of system, and I cant tell you the TDS in my area can change from low to high depending the time of year and that could explains why the resin sometimes don't last as long. If you get a lot of homes with high TDS it can kill the resin real quick.
This video got me wondering. Is it possible to prewash the windows with just the customers straight water and then use the DI water to rinse the window?
We do this often. If you have two poles going, 1st operator or 1st pass over the house is using straight customer water...focusing on frames, corners and quick pre-scrub of the glass. 2nd pole or pass, with pure water it's just glass...keeping off that top edge that can drip water with sediment. Sounds like twice the work, but honestly your 1st pass you can be "sloppy"! Hit everything! Frames, corners, sills, glass, ledges etc. 2nd pass, you're just on glass and staying off the top edge with your rinse....so you fly from pane to pane! : ) New clients or homes with dirty frames are prime candidates for the car wash method! : )
Great video. I was using well water 488ppm and my booster pump shoots water 2.5 to 3ft out of brush. I was shocked to discover I went through .pp2ppm to .026 after 25 min of continual use. Should I tien down pump or use ball valve to slow down flow?
I’m wondering why they don’t use separate resin beds instead of a mixed bed, ie one bed with cation resin leading into a bed of anion resin. The big advantage would be that you would be able to regenerate the resins and never (or rarely) need to replace them, providing you could safely handle the strong acid and base solutions, which are only lye and hydrochloric acids.
Good question that I get asked a lot. DI exists on every multi stage system as the last filter because it is the filter media that can get the water to 100% pure. The RO membranes usually can reduce the TDS (total dissolved solids, minerals) down by 95% on average when new. The purpose of the RO membrane(s) is to act as a prefilter for the DI so the DI last longer. If you are in a low TDS area, then “DI only” makes perfect sense. But if in a high TDS area or needing to use the system daily, then pre filtering the mineral content will allow you save on DI media cost. RO membranes although expensive, can last for a few years. Now, the RO membrane needs to be protected from harm such as chlorine and any other junk (rust, dirt, sludge) floating around in the source water line. So often a carbon filter and sediment filter will be placed before the RO. To wrap up, in a perfect world where we all had lower TDS levels, a DI system would reign supreme.
There are facilities that will “regenerate” your resin. It won’t last as long as virgin resin but there may still be some cost savings. See if you can find someone local, and doesn’t require you to have a large supply if it to work on.
Simple equation..the faster water moves thru your di resin the shorter the life. Depending on the size is the average life...1 cf resin generally gives 1300 gallons of di water with 400ppm water. Running di is not cheap.
The flow rate is a great point. A ball valve is a must!
Good point about laying it horizontally versus vertically. I had that problem with the EZ pure caddy until I started standing it upright!
Ya I tell a lot of people that have the Tucker di caddy (always shown lying down) will work better standing vertical.
Awesome video Mark!
What's your opinion? I use two DI tanks in series. Any value to using one with the oldest resin as a "pre filter" with the second in series to "polish" the water at the end?
Hi Kent, I’m really glad you asked. My next DI video will be on this exact subject. I’m still working out my this scenario but hope to have a video uploaded in about a weeks time.
Sounds good, and thanks for all you do for our industry. @@WCSkills
I use the same method, two DI tanks. I used to throw away the old resin, now I use it as a pre filter and I get more homes cleaned this way. I also now track it with an excell spread sheet with clients name , Sqft and TDS. I track the TDS coming out of the home and after I clean a home coming out of system, and I cant tell you the TDS in my area can change from low to high depending the time of year and that could explains why the resin sometimes don't last as long. If you get a lot of homes with high TDS it can kill the resin real quick.
This video got me wondering. Is it possible to prewash the windows with just the customers straight water and then use the DI water to rinse the window?
I know a few people that do that. It's called the "car wash" method. Like a spot free car wash rinse after the regular cleaning method.
We do this often. If you have two poles going, 1st operator or 1st pass over the house is using straight customer water...focusing on frames, corners and quick pre-scrub of the glass. 2nd pole or pass, with pure water it's just glass...keeping off that top edge that can drip water with sediment. Sounds like twice the work, but honestly your 1st pass you can be "sloppy"! Hit everything! Frames, corners, sills, glass, ledges etc. 2nd pass, you're just on glass and staying off the top edge with your rinse....so you fly from pane to pane! : ) New clients or homes with dirty frames are prime candidates for the car wash method! : )
That will only work when you’re not working in high temps, it’s almost impossible to use tap water in Texas when it’s 100 degrees out
Great video. I was using well water 488ppm and my booster pump shoots water 2.5 to 3ft out of brush. I was shocked to discover I went through .pp2ppm to .026 after 25 min of continual use. Should I tien down pump or use ball valve to slow down flow?
Yes, that’s way too much water than needed and too fast through the filter.
If I am going to my pressure washer the flow is then limited to only what is being pulled correct? Thanks.
Great video Cheers mark
thank you
🤛
I’m wondering why they don’t use separate resin beds instead of a mixed bed, ie one bed with cation resin leading into a bed of anion resin. The big advantage would be that you would be able to regenerate the resins and never (or rarely) need to replace them, providing you could safely handle the strong acid and base solutions, which are only lye and hydrochloric acids.
Is just a DI as good as those 3+4 stage systems???
Good question that I get asked a lot. DI exists on every multi stage system as the last filter because it is the filter media that can get the water to 100% pure. The RO membranes usually can reduce the TDS (total dissolved solids, minerals) down by 95% on average when new. The purpose of the RO membrane(s) is to act as a prefilter for the DI so the DI last longer. If you are in a low TDS area, then “DI only” makes perfect sense. But if in a high TDS area or needing to use the system daily, then pre filtering the mineral content will allow you save on DI media cost. RO membranes although expensive, can last for a few years. Now, the RO membrane needs to be protected from harm such as chlorine and any other junk (rust, dirt, sludge) floating around in the source water line. So often a carbon filter and sediment filter will be placed before the RO. To wrap up, in a perfect world where we all had lower TDS levels, a DI system would reign supreme.
It only lasts for 6 to 12 months once opened on the shelf?
Typically yes, your experience may vary.
Do you have a way of cleaning the resin to be reused instead of buying resin from a supplier.
There are facilities that will “regenerate” your resin. It won’t last as long as virgin resin but there may still be some cost savings. See if you can find someone local, and doesn’t require you to have a large supply if it to work on.
I love you mark
Anyone know how to recharge resin so you can use it again?
Simple equation..the faster water moves thru your di resin the shorter the life.
Depending on the size is the average life...1 cf resin generally gives 1300 gallons of di water with 400ppm water. Running di is not cheap.
Some jobs near the bay have 400+. I always check well water. If it is over 300 I turn the water way down and hurry my ass up.