Good vid John...been looking forward to more tech talk with the big guy!! Interesting problem with the phasing...never really thought about it... Man how much has Jacob grown.. thanks for sharing Sir
I am running into a similar situation with my 88 dodge d250, 360 small block with home ported stock heads and a aftermarket intake and four barrel carb, my fuel system is good, changed the plugs and wires and coil, changed the cap and rotor button, changed the ecm, changed the ballast resistor, no luck, it was running good then I kinda got into it a bit and the misfire started and it continues on, I put my timing light on the plug wire for cyl 1 and I can watch the light cut in and out, I’ll have to give this a try when the weekend gets here again, thank you for sharing your talents and knowledge you guys break it down to where I can understand it, I’m not good with timing stuff at all
Funny, the wife and I were just talking about that. Most of the taping of this vid was done about 6 months ago. And he's grown about 8 inches,. Know he's runnin around calling his mom a midget lol.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 the world average for females is around 5', so she's tall(er). BTW, I should tell you, I did the spring stretch with a flat blade just as u said and what a difference! So much more fun! Thank you and good weekend
John you were right again!! Regarding the impact of opening the spark plug gap up! I went to.50 and this Cleveland engine is running like it hasn’t in years. For my application using the MSD system.35 gap just wasn’t working but I didn’t know it. Thanks again and please keep doing your videos!
It’s ironic that your recent video talks, in part, about spark plug gap. It’s been a thorn in my side until yesterday. My system is all msd and I’ve been using.35 gap. Yesterday I thought “ let’s prove msd wrong and gap the plugs to .50. To my surprise, the plugs that were.35 and were gas wet at times suddenly fired perfectly! So I have to rethink tuning my 351c. Oem iron heads aren’t efficient as what’s available today and I’ve been trying to tune afrs on modern fuel. Your videos are great John thank you
I recently discovered I have a Frankenstein distributor. 1970s Datsuns, theres an early distributor with a smaller cap and a later one with a bigger cap and I have a later big cap distributor with the earlier internals making it to where I can only use a smaller cap, which doesn't fit right. Somebody was on meth and it may have been the Hispanic truck-driver I bought the car from.
Lol glad you told me about the Datsun, it brought back memories. The first distributor I ever recurved was a Datsun I think 1800 in a 520 truck. It's also the first manual transmission that I drove on the street. The recurve made a big difference and I've never looked back!
I never thought about it. Then one Saturday night at cajon speedway coming off the corner till about halfway down about the starter stand, the engine would blubber and then it would go away and run hard into the corner, then again down the backstretch. I tried everything I knew to do. Changing plugs and wires and jets, checking timing with someone else's timing light just in case. Then one of the old guys at the track name Warren Norris came to me and said, "Did you check your phasing?" I said, "What the hell is that. 3 things, I never had a phasing issue that stumped me again. I always listen to old guys (even though still with a grain of salt). I never forget Warren's name. Thanks for checking it out, T.
Hello John it’s good to see that you’re doing well. When time permits, could you please give me your opinion on “ what spark plug gap makes sense “. I’m a ford mustang owner using oem iron heads, 9:6:1 compression using MSD ignition with the 6-A box bladter 2 coil, no boost or power adder. I currently use the stock gap but what gap do you think I should use? Be well brother and thank you. G Virginia
1st, let me say that's an excellent ignition system you're using. I would start no less then .045. Usually, the bigger the better, but only if your ignition can handle it. RPM is usually were problems start to occur with a large gap. That being typed start at 45 to 65. With a system I'm not familiar with I start at 45 and move up .005 at a time and make sure you're getting no brakedowns till. 065. That takes a lot of time, though, and the gains are rather small. Your system that you're running you might want to go straight to .065 and save some time and go down from there if you need to. I haven't seen much advantage past .065 . If there is, it's small. Make sure all your wires are in good shape also cause it's the biggest issues with large gaps. thanks for watching
Good video & info ! Question. Culd you try a different distributor cap, maybe a different brand? Sort of a quick easy test. Could be a bad batch of caps. Fri or bad Mon. Thanks John 👍
Could you do a video on the hemi and 340 Tach Drive Race mechanical Distributors dual points and the Direct connection Electronic Race Distributors at what Rpm were they in at what would the pull up to.Were they good for driving and racing?Whats good,bad about them why were they cast iron or aluminum? Thanks again you have very good explanation for childish adults like me 😊
Hello, Tall John and Jacob, Does anyone sell something to allow a larger cap on my stockish Mopar disti? My goal was to increase that separation you pointed out. Those GM HEIs caps look large. Thanks and best wishes
I don't think anything like that is made. You can buy a gm style distributor for your mopar and put a cap on that takes an external coil, and you can use the mopar box if you want to do that.
So John, when you hear guy’s say locking out the distributor make sure to weld it up in the advanced position is not required?, oh yeah please don’t stop the distributor videos I have learned so much from you, and really appreciate it, I’m almost afraid to ask but I just bought a msd digital E curve distributor do you have any opinions on those, Mike (DRF)😀😀
You are correct. It does not matter where you have the advance when you weld it. I like the msd E. It works well and is fairly easy to use. I don't use it cause I'm using stock stuff, but it is better.
Hi John, I'm working on a 1970 440 and I installed a fire core distributor replaced the points. I lined everything up TDC at Zero mark on compression, rotor pointing on #1 plug, vacuum pointing at #1 valve cover but when trying to start its takes a lot of cranking and when it kicks over it runs terrible and won't idle? Is it 180 off? I dont understand what that means. Any help would be greatly appreciated this is keeping me up at night from sleeping😂
I've not seen that one, but wow. I've seen different subjects about ignition that are so wrong and just wish better for the folks. Peeps like us can only do our best. Thanks for watching.
Good vid John...been looking forward to more tech talk with the big guy!! Interesting problem with the phasing...never really thought about it... Man how much has Jacob grown.. thanks for sharing Sir
Jacobs all grown up all of a sudden!
Well said! I’m sending them to the source!
Tall John thank you for video. It reminds me of information that I haven’t used in 20 years.
John I greatly appreciate you responding to my message. Your relationship with Jacob is priceless. Continue to be blessed John and thanks again
I’m older than most of you and I’m still learning ! Good video . Thank you for explaining
I am running into a similar situation with my 88 dodge d250, 360 small block with home ported stock heads and a aftermarket intake and four barrel carb, my fuel system is good, changed the plugs and wires and coil, changed the cap and rotor button, changed the ecm, changed the ballast resistor, no luck, it was running good then I kinda got into it a bit and the misfire started and it continues on, I put my timing light on the plug wire for cyl 1 and I can watch the light cut in and out, I’ll have to give this a try when the weekend gets here again, thank you for sharing your talents and knowledge you guys break it down to where I can understand it, I’m not good with timing stuff at all
Hopefully this helps so you can just have. Good luck.
Ive been doing the hole trick for a very long time... So much fun filing a new location for the roll pin 😂... But hey that's fun too me.
Great information John! I almost didn't recognize Jacob's voice. He's growing up!
Funny, the wife and I were just talking about that. Most of the taping of this vid was done about 6 months ago. And he's grown about 8 inches,. Know he's runnin around calling his mom a midget lol.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 How tall is he now? How have you all been?
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Is your bride a tall lady, too??
@@stuckinmygarage6220 she's 5.6
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 the world average for females is around 5', so she's tall(er).
BTW, I should tell you, I did the spring stretch with a flat blade just as u said and what a difference! So much more fun!
Thank you and good weekend
John you were right again!! Regarding the impact of opening the spark plug gap up! I went to.50 and this Cleveland engine is running like it hasn’t in years. For my application using the MSD system.35 gap just wasn’t working but I didn’t know it. Thanks again and please keep doing your videos!
It’s ironic that your recent video talks, in part, about spark plug gap. It’s been a thorn in my side until yesterday. My system is all msd and I’ve been using.35 gap. Yesterday I thought “ let’s prove msd wrong and gap the plugs to .50. To my surprise, the plugs that were.35 and were gas wet at times suddenly fired perfectly! So I have to rethink tuning my 351c. Oem iron heads aren’t efficient as what’s available today and I’ve been trying to tune afrs on modern fuel. Your videos are great John thank you
Thank you for sharing.
I believe this will fix MY problem, which my rotor is out 10-11 degree.
(MSD 6AL-2 Programmable installed)
I recently discovered I have a Frankenstein distributor. 1970s Datsuns, theres an early distributor with a smaller cap and a later one with a bigger cap and I have a later big cap distributor with the earlier internals making it to where I can only use a smaller cap, which doesn't fit right. Somebody was on meth and it may have been the Hispanic truck-driver I bought the car from.
Lol glad you told me about the Datsun, it brought back memories. The first distributor I ever recurved was a Datsun I think 1800 in a 520 truck. It's also the first manual transmission that I drove on the street. The recurve made a big difference and I've never looked back!
Good stuff John! Not an issue one would usually think about.
I never thought about it. Then one Saturday night at cajon speedway coming off the corner till about halfway down about the starter stand, the engine would blubber and then it would go away and run hard into the corner, then again down the backstretch. I tried everything I knew to do. Changing plugs and wires and jets, checking timing with someone else's timing light just in case. Then one of the old guys at the track name Warren Norris came to me and said, "Did you check your phasing?" I said, "What the hell is that. 3 things, I never had a phasing issue that stumped me again. I always listen to old guys (even though still with a grain of salt). I never forget Warren's name. Thanks for checking it out, T.
Good information John.
Thanks for sharing.
good job. thanks and cheers
Awesome. Love your videos!
Lots of great information... Thank you.
Coil in plug just dominates ignition. Real old school to me is flame igtion lanz bulldog style.older than points,magnetos,buzzcoils.
I love distributor videos, (seriously, lol!) ;)
Hello John it’s good to see that you’re doing well. When time permits, could you please give me your opinion on “ what spark plug gap makes sense “. I’m a ford mustang owner using oem iron heads, 9:6:1 compression using MSD ignition with the 6-A box bladter 2 coil, no boost or power adder. I currently use the stock gap but what gap do you think I should use? Be well brother and thank you.
G
Virginia
1st, let me say that's an excellent ignition system you're using. I would start no less then .045. Usually, the bigger the better, but only if your ignition can handle it. RPM is usually were problems start to occur with a large gap. That being typed start at 45 to 65. With a system I'm not familiar with I start at 45 and move up .005 at a time and make sure you're getting no brakedowns till. 065. That takes a lot of time, though, and the gains are rather small. Your system that you're running you might want to go straight to .065 and save some time and go down from there if you need to. I haven't seen much advantage past .065 . If there is, it's small. Make sure all your wires are in good shape also cause it's the biggest issues with large gaps. thanks for watching
Good video & info ! Question. Culd you try a different distributor cap, maybe a different brand? Sort of a quick easy test. Could be a bad batch of caps. Fri or bad Mon. Thanks John 👍
Yes, you sure could, and with today's quality control issues we all keep hearing about, that is a legit place to start
Could you do a video on the hemi and 340 Tach Drive Race mechanical Distributors dual points and the Direct connection Electronic Race Distributors at what Rpm were they in at what would the pull up to.Were they good for driving and racing?Whats good,bad about them why were they cast iron or aluminum? Thanks again you have very good explanation for childish adults like me 😊
If I get one to do, I'll show it.
Good stuff ! Time for a 2024 road trip ? Don't give me no Sh*t neither !
Oh your gonna get something hehe
Great Video and Demonstration 🤘
Killllllller
Hello, Tall John and Jacob,
Does anyone sell something to allow a larger cap on my stockish Mopar disti? My goal was to increase that separation you pointed out. Those GM HEIs caps look large.
Thanks and best wishes
I don't think anything like that is made. You can buy a gm style distributor for your mopar and put a cap on that takes an external coil, and you can use the mopar box if you want to do that.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Thank you and good weekend!
So John, when you hear guy’s say locking out the distributor make sure to weld it up in the advanced position is not required?, oh yeah please don’t stop the distributor videos I have learned so much from you, and really appreciate it, I’m almost afraid to ask but I just bought a msd digital E curve distributor do you have any opinions on those, Mike (DRF)😀😀
You are correct. It does not matter where you have the advance when you weld it. I like the msd E. It works well and is fairly easy to use. I don't use it cause I'm using stock stuff, but it is better.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 yes , thank you John, the grafts on setting it up are a little confusing but I’m sure I’ll figure it out🤪🤪
👍🏻
Maybe don't call those distributor cap terminal electrodes reluctors so the other kids don't laugh at poor Jacob someday.
Hi John, I'm working on a 1970 440 and I installed a fire core distributor replaced the points. I lined everything up TDC at Zero mark on compression, rotor pointing on #1 plug, vacuum pointing at #1 valve cover but when trying to start its takes a lot of cranking and when it kicks over it runs terrible and won't idle? Is it 180 off? I dont understand what that means. Any help would be greatly appreciated this is keeping me up at night from sleeping😂
Hi Chuck, I'm out of town now, and I'll try to help more later, but to start with, if the engine runs, it is not 180 out.
Theres a video with 3 times as many views telling people they can re-phase a rotor by dropping the distributor in differently...face-palm.
I've not seen that one, but wow. I've seen different subjects about ignition that are so wrong and just wish better for the folks. Peeps like us can only do our best. Thanks for watching.
Promo_SM 👏