Notes for V2: 1) You need a control engine with regular oil to be sure the chips are due to break-in. It is a reasonable assumption, but you do not know if the engines were producing the same, less, or more metal than expected. 2) Measure the quantity of oil you pour in and out of the engine to see if any oil was burning. Again, use a control engine with regular oil. 3) Consider extended testing, an engine that would be done in 50 hours and one that would last 500 hours might look about the same in the first hour of operation. Maybe the vegetable oil works great for 2 hours and then it breaks down catastrophically. Maybe the gear oil lasts longer than regular motor oil (doubtful, but you have not tested and so you do not know) 4) EGT/CHT probes and an Arduino for data logging.
I sell castor seed for castor oil. Castor oil was used before petroleum in very early motor cars. The issue was a varnish over time, but the oil doesn't thin like other seed oils. British biplanes of WW1 used castor oil if I remember correctly. I'd love to see a test with castor oil!!
Castor oil is still used in 2 strike model engine fuel. You can get synthetic, but many people still.put in some castor for rust prevention properties. The castor, though, does create unwanted build up.
Castor oil was only used in rotary engines in WWI. Rotary engines had a total loss oil system, where the castor oil, fuel and air was injected directly into the crank case and the centripetal force of the engine rotating would send it up induction tubes into the tops of the cylinders to be let in and burned. The exhaust was directly into the slipstream, no headers. An exception to those was the Gnome Monosoupape, which had ports in the bottom of the cylinder liner and used a complex push-pull rod to a valve at the top of the cylinder. It was used for both exhaust and air intake, while the fuel and castor oil came from inside the crank case through the ports. All mass production rotary engines were four stroke, even the Monosoupape. The reason castor oil was used is because it mixes well with gasoline, and maintained its lubricating properties inside the engine. Near the end of the war, Germany being on the brink of total economic collapse, they started to use a type of mineral oil called Votol. It was vastly inferior to castor oil and caused engines to seize up after just a few hours
To be honest I'm more curious about the £50 engines than the oil test. Like many people I've bought a few tools over the year from Chinese origin and often with a little fettling, deburring they have been quite serviceable for amateur use. It would be interesting to see a tear down of one of the engines and maybe a tune up to see how perfoms once fettled compared to as shipped.
These are very crude engines, very simple and cheap build. I quite sure a more advanced and expensive engine wouldn't make it an hour before it failed.
Hey, i don't want to critisize too much. But... You should have broken in every single engine with regular oil, for 60 minutes at least. Then, you should have put in the other oil, and most likely you wouldn't see results for 6 hours. If you do it again, maybe try to put something together to put a load on the engine. Power some generators, which are connected to a heating fan. Nice insight tho, very cool to see you go from farming simulator to actual real life engines and such. Always loving the restorer videos :) Edit: Putting load on the engine gradually increases the wear of the engine. Which makes your needed testing time come down. (1-2h instead of 6h)
@@videodistro Well is does tell you that in a pinch all three of the oils will run the engine - by comparing with 10w-30 oil is should be possible to determine which of the 3 alternative oils are best at dissipating heat
This was fascinating but it sucks that you didn't do a control run with engine oil so we could get an idea whether the difference in temps was due to the engine or the oil.
i dont think there was much cross-hatching on any of the cylinders and its surprising how badly scratched they were for a new engine. its true what they say, you get what you pay for. i bet the veg oil one if left running long enough would seize or blow, it would get too hot and not be as able to cope. interesting test though
Very interesting results, thanks for taking the time to do this and sharing the results. I wonder how much metal would still have been present with the proper oil and what those temperatures would have been.
I was given a Mercedes diesel that had run on recycled vegetable oil but the engine oil was Rotella 15w40. Loved that car. 40,000 miles before letting it go. The Astro van didn't go 25,000 before it croaked.
Castrol make a vegetable oil called Castrol R. It was used a lot for racing up until the 1980s, when most turned to the modern better oils. I think all you have done is use these oils as a running-in oil, and maybe if you now used a multigrade, they will give much better results, with less contamination.
The name Castrol comes from the type of oil they used, which was vegetable oil obtained from the castor bean, it provided superior properties to that of the mineral based oils available at the time. When using castor based oils you should ensure the engine is thoroughly cleaned to be devoid of any mineral based oil, reaction between the two can lead to a loss of lubrication.
Loved that little test Mr. Machinery Restorer 👍👍👍!!! Not that I wish for drama, but I waaaaas kinda waiting for one of 'em to go pop 😂. Guess I'll stock up on the Crisp 'n' Dry ay 😉😁. 😎
Quick reminder, while the vegetable oil worked in this case, that's because these engines don't have oil pumps. Had it been pumped it may have aerated and turned into a slimy mess.
I ran a VW Beetle on veg oil as a bet with a friend. He said it couldn't run 150 km (approx. 94 miles) on veg oil, and I said it could. It survived, although it was smoking a bit more after the trip, and it smelled like a deep fryer. It was an old 1100cc 25 hp engine, but I'm pretty sure that at least 10 of those ponies had left the stable even before the test. lol
realy interesting. why does the cooking oil work so good? is there any way cou can put a load on that thing? i think then its gonna blow. or just some long term test with the cooking oil
Maybe because it was meant to be machine lubricant in the first place? I wouldnt even let stuff like that on my fingers. Nasty stuff By the way those engines need to be flushed. They're full of metal particles from factory...
I keep getting asked what oil should I use for this or that, my Standard reply is whatever the manufacturer recommends but any oil is better than no oil if your in a pinch. I can see the vegetable oil turning into a tough glaze on every sirface over time as it does in deep fryers, Castor oil does the same and its virtually impossible to get off!
Great fun! Would be interesting to see an experiment with air filters. Maybe one no filter, one oiled and one clean. Run for a while as you mow then strip the carbs? Or change the fuel mix and check temps? Loved it anyway and 50 quid is a bargain even with rough ass bores.
Interesting concept. For information, the first oil change I did on a new Lifan (same is yours) engine came out looking like the yellow engine oil. The next change was much better, as the engine had broken in. So it would have been best to "run in" the engine on normal SAE 30, before switching to the test oil. Nice video though, thanks.
Hydraulic oil will leave behind a varnish if it gets too hot, it gets sticky and will cause parts to bind together, have seen this many times on machinery with hydraulic systems on them.
I'm guilty of using "wrong" oil on cheap gardening machines, but not to such extremes, just car engine oil with roughly similar specs (it's far cheaper than ordering the specific recommended one). Works well enough on something like a Chinese lawnmower or tiller, they don't appear to run worse or break down faster.
I'm wondering if air fuel ratio might have played a part in temp on those, I have used those cheap engine s for things a found them to usually be lean, slightly cleaned out the main jet with a torch cleaner or something else helped a lot
I've bought a 35.8 cc Chinese petrol strimmer mounted on a frame with wheels. It's a clone of the Honda unit, and all in cost me about 60 pounds. I bought it because once a month I clear the very rapid tough as old boots grass that grows over the road, which the local authorities aren't interested in clearing. I've cleared it twice so far and if it survives a third time it'll have been cheaper than paying someone to do. I've no idea how often one should change the oil, but it only holds 100ml so perhaps every other month would be a good plan. As interesting as this was, I don't think I'll copy your experiment, a litre of fully synth 10W40 was 2.25 the same amount of vegetable oil would be about half that. But if was interesting. I'm no mechanic but what is the most likely casualty of a consistently high temp exhaust as you saw when using veg oil?
The higher exhaust temperature for the vegetable oil makes sense to me : less viscosity means more oil finding its way into the cylinders, therefore more oil residue in the exhaust, therefore more thermal transfer.
When he said it smelled like a chippy I just assumed it was dieseling with whatever veg oil was getting past the rings, which would be consistent with higher EGT
Fun facts hydraulic oil is actually quite comparable to mineral engine oil, its grade normally either ISO46 or ISO68 are SAE 10w-30 and 15w-40 they don't have the wear additive packages that engine oil does. But there flashpoints are identical. Unlike veg oil which differ between the various types of oil but are actually quiet low, which is why they make a great fuel. Also where was the control
The only thing missing is the control engine using the correct engine oil. Then we have a true comparison with break-in glitter and temps reached. All we know now is the engines survived with what appears to be slightly higher temps.
It would have been nice to have seen the 3 engines broken in with the correct spec oil, disassembled enough to completely clean them out (ensuring a fair testing field), then run the tests as you did from there. All that was really confirmed here is that the 3 oil types are capable of lubricating the engines (though for how long, or to what degree is still unclear), and make a show of how badly the engines are constructed given just how much "glitter" there was in all 3.
It would be great to see another engine as a control put through its paces the same as the first three but with the manufacturer's recommended oil. Then run all 4 again with the same test and see what the outcome was.
I heard that engines can run a long time without (propper) oil if they arnt loaded with anything. Maybe next time attatcht a generator or something to it?
That's what he used dumbass, in many countries including the UK it is called Rapeseed oil and has been commercially farmed since the 1970s, Canada changed the name to Canola (Canada oil) when they started farming it in 1986.
Different type of vídeo, really interesting. These sorts can be used as in-between videos for projects that are taking longer to conplete. Maybe try using vegetable oil instead of petrol
Vegetable oils can be used as fuel in Compression ignition engines (diesel) but not for internal combustion engines (petrol). These test engines had spark plugs, therefore they were NOT diesel.
There was once a company that sold an oil additive that they claimed would have enough residual lubrication that an engine could without oil for a period of time without damage. They demonstrated this with a Briggs and Stratton classic engine by using their additive, then after a run-in period, draining all the oil and running it again. Briggs and Stratton replicated the test but didn't bother with any additive and the engine ran for quite a while with no oil whatsoever. Kind of funny. These little engines, especially the honda clones, seem to take a lot of abuse. I've only ever managed to destroy one of these engines in many years of using them in pumps industrial applications where they are often neglected. I think you could run anything from kerosene to gear oil in these little engines for a short period of time without damage. Not long term, of course. Hydraulic oil lacks the detergents and additives to deal with the products of combustion.
Very cool testing and data collection! Very insightful! Did you happen to run a test on a new motor with all of the manufacturer's fluid recommendations as a control as well? I'm looking forward to future endeavors on the channel.
When you said you weren't using a Briggs & Stratton it would have been okay to use one of them because some of the Clone engines are better than a Briggs & Stratton anymore.😂
Seeing plastic gears in there hurts. I know it's common but it's just a time bomb. It makes the whole engine, all the time and materials a waste. Just to use a plastic gear. Most ppl wouldn't fix it, just chuck it
It still upsets me to see these brand new engines treated this way even if they are cheap clone engines, they maybe not the best quality but still a good little engine if looked after!
Notes for V2:
1) You need a control engine with regular oil to be sure the chips are due to break-in. It is a reasonable assumption, but you do not know if the engines were producing the same, less, or more metal than expected.
2) Measure the quantity of oil you pour in and out of the engine to see if any oil was burning. Again, use a control engine with regular oil.
3) Consider extended testing, an engine that would be done in 50 hours and one that would last 500 hours might look about the same in the first hour of operation. Maybe the vegetable oil works great for 2 hours and then it breaks down catastrophically. Maybe the gear oil lasts longer than regular motor oil (doubtful, but you have not tested and so you do not know)
4) EGT/CHT probes and an Arduino for data logging.
Looking forward to when you do your video 😂
Didn't "Project Farm" channel do something very similar?
@@Mariano.Bernacki it's not that serious mate. Lol. But it would definitely show data. He did this for fun.
@@Paul-FrancisB😂😂😂😂😂
/agree on the control engine with rec. oil. So you know if these results are better/worse than the baseline.
I sell castor seed for castor oil. Castor oil was used before petroleum in very early motor cars. The issue was a varnish over time, but the oil doesn't thin like other seed oils. British biplanes of WW1 used castor oil if I remember correctly. I'd love to see a test with castor oil!!
Castor oil is still used in 2 strike model engine fuel. You can get synthetic, but many people still.put in some castor for rust prevention properties. The castor, though, does create unwanted build up.
Castor oil was only used in rotary engines in WWI. Rotary engines had a total loss oil system, where the castor oil, fuel and air was injected directly into the crank case and the centripetal force of the engine rotating would send it up induction tubes into the tops of the cylinders to be let in and burned. The exhaust was directly into the slipstream, no headers.
An exception to those was the Gnome Monosoupape, which had ports in the bottom of the cylinder liner and used a complex push-pull rod to a valve at the top of the cylinder. It was used for both exhaust and air intake, while the fuel and castor oil came from inside the crank case through the ports. All mass production rotary engines were four stroke, even the Monosoupape.
The reason castor oil was used is because it mixes well with gasoline, and maintained its lubricating properties inside the engine.
Near the end of the war, Germany being on the brink of total economic collapse, they started to use a type of mineral oil called Votol. It was vastly inferior to castor oil and caused engines to seize up after just a few hours
Nice looking of the Christmas tree colors of those teat engine's
To be honest I'm more curious about the £50 engines than the oil test.
Like many people I've bought a few tools over the year from Chinese origin and often with a little fettling, deburring they have been quite serviceable for amateur use.
It would be interesting to see a tear down of one of the engines and maybe a tune up to see how perfoms once fettled compared to as shipped.
Yes me too and tbh I want to know where I can get one 😊
Very interesting study. I for one, really thought that the engine running the vegetable oil would’ve failed. Good to know 😉 Thank you!
These are very crude engines, very simple and cheap build. I quite sure a more advanced and expensive engine wouldn't make it an hour before it failed.
somebody's been watching project Farm LOL
Hey, i don't want to critisize too much. But... You should have broken in every single engine with regular oil, for 60 minutes at least. Then, you should have put in the other oil, and most likely you wouldn't see results for 6 hours.
If you do it again, maybe try to put something together to put a load on the engine. Power some generators, which are connected to a heating fan.
Nice insight tho, very cool to see you go from farming simulator to actual real life engines and such. Always loving the restorer videos :)
Edit: Putting load on the engine gradually increases the wear of the engine. Which makes your needed testing time come down. (1-2h instead of 6h)
It would be nice to see what happens under load. Robot Cantina has some ideas this type of experiment would benefit from. I enjoy your videos.
Great experiment. If possible it would be interesting to see the the temperatures when running on recommended 10w-30 oil - on all 3 engines
Yes, without a control run, it doesn't tell you anything.
@@videodistro Well is does tell you that in a pinch all three of the oils will run the engine - by comparing with 10w-30 oil is should be possible to determine which of the 3 alternative oils are best at dissipating heat
This was fascinating but it sucks that you didn't do a control run with engine oil so we could get an idea whether the difference in temps was due to the engine or the oil.
This. Without a control, it's not telling you anything.
Yes, a control engine would've been helpful.
i dont think there was much cross-hatching on any of the cylinders and its surprising how badly scratched they were for a new engine. its true what they say, you get what you pay for. i bet the veg oil one if left running long enough would seize or blow, it would get too hot and not be as able to cope. interesting test though
For reference the swedish army motorcycle husqvarna 258 runs with hydrualic fluid in the automatic gearbox. And has done so since 1984.
That was a really cool video however what do you think you should’ve repeated the test with the correct oil to compare the results?
Very interesting results, thanks for taking the time to do this and sharing the results. I wonder how much metal would still have been present with the proper oil and what those temperatures would have been.
I was given a Mercedes diesel that had run on recycled vegetable oil but the engine oil was Rotella 15w40. Loved that car. 40,000 miles before letting it go. The Astro van didn't go 25,000 before it croaked.
Castrol make a vegetable oil called Castrol R. It was used a lot for racing up until the 1980s, when most turned to the modern better oils.
I think all you have done is use these oils as a running-in oil, and maybe if you now used a multigrade, they will give much better results, with less contamination.
The name Castrol comes from the type of oil they used, which was vegetable oil obtained from the castor bean, it provided superior properties to that of the mineral based oils available at the time. When using castor based oils you should ensure the engine is thoroughly cleaned to be devoid of any mineral based oil, reaction between the two can lead to a loss of lubrication.
It also has a distinctive smell.
Klotz still offers a castor based 2-stroke oil called BeNOL. A lot of old-school dirt bike riders still use it religiously.
Oh the smell of Castrol R coming from a gaggle of 2 stroke crossers back in the days before climate change :-)
Your channel is great all round because you are in effect, a Dr/Surgeon... although your 'patients' are garden machinery! )
Loved that little test Mr. Machinery Restorer 👍👍👍!!! Not that I wish for drama, but I waaaaas kinda waiting for one of 'em to go pop 😂. Guess I'll stock up on the Crisp 'n' Dry ay 😉😁. 😎
Really interesting and informative video Dagg. Have you thought about testing different grades of fuel?
Quick reminder, while the vegetable oil worked in this case, that's because these engines don't have oil pumps. Had it been pumped it may have aerated and turned into a slimy mess.
I ran a VW Beetle on veg oil as a bet with a friend. He said it couldn't run 150 km (approx. 94 miles) on veg oil, and I said it could. It survived, although it was smoking a bit more after the trip, and it smelled like a deep fryer. It was an old 1100cc 25 hp engine, but I'm pretty sure that at least 10 of those ponies had left the stable even before the test. lol
realy interesting. why does the cooking oil work so good? is there any way cou can put a load on that thing? i think then its gonna blow. or just some long term test with the cooking oil
Maybe because it was meant to be machine lubricant in the first place? I wouldnt even let stuff like that on my fingers. Nasty stuff
By the way those engines need to be flushed. They're full of metal particles from factory...
I keep getting asked what oil should I use for this or that, my Standard reply is whatever the manufacturer recommends but any oil is better than no oil if your in a pinch.
I can see the vegetable oil turning into a tough glaze on every sirface over time as it does in deep fryers, Castor oil does the same and its virtually impossible to get off!
Great fun! Would be interesting to see an experiment with air filters. Maybe one no filter, one oiled and one clean. Run for a while as you mow then strip the carbs? Or change the fuel mix and check temps? Loved it anyway and 50 quid is a bargain even with rough ass bores.
Who is here because the font and title colors made you think it was Project Farm?
Although Project Farm has performed these tests several times over, it's good to see other opinions.
Yep. Swore this was a project farm video when I saw the thumbnail. 😅
Yep, same. But to be fair at least he preformed a proper test (as advertised on the thumbnail) and not just another fake youtube click bait knock off.
Yup
With him the old beat up push mower motor would also be in the thumbnail
Interesting concept.
For information, the first oil change I did on a new Lifan (same is yours) engine came out looking like the yellow engine oil. The next change was much better, as the engine had broken in.
So it would have been best to "run in" the engine on normal SAE 30, before switching to the test oil.
Nice video though, thanks.
Hydraulic oil will leave behind a varnish if it gets too hot, it gets sticky and will cause parts to bind together, have seen this many times on machinery with hydraulic systems on them.
need to test under load, an engine can run for a surprisingly long time with no oil under no load
I'm guilty of using "wrong" oil on cheap gardening machines, but not to such extremes, just car engine oil with roughly similar specs (it's far cheaper than ordering the specific recommended one). Works well enough on something like a Chinese lawnmower or tiller, they don't appear to run worse or break down faster.
I always wondered this, thank you Daggerwin for making this video.
Surprisingly well built for a cheap engine.
I'm wondering if air fuel ratio might have played a part in temp on those, I have used those cheap engine s for things a found them to usually be lean, slightly cleaned out the main jet with a torch cleaner or something else helped a lot
I've bought a 35.8 cc Chinese petrol strimmer mounted on a frame with wheels. It's a clone of the Honda unit, and all in cost me about 60 pounds. I bought it because once a month I clear the very rapid tough as old boots grass that grows over the road, which the local authorities aren't interested in clearing.
I've cleared it twice so far and if it survives a third time it'll have been cheaper than paying someone to do. I've no idea how often one should change the oil, but it only holds 100ml so perhaps every other month would be a good plan.
As interesting as this was, I don't think I'll copy your experiment, a litre of fully synth 10W40 was 2.25 the same amount of vegetable oil would be about half that. But if was interesting.
I'm no mechanic but what is the most likely casualty of a consistently high temp exhaust as you saw when using veg oil?
Where did you find the engines for that price from?🤔
This videos make me doubting all I know about mechanics!
How about either running the engines to failure or using non-oil liquids such as diesel fuel or water?
Is hydraulic oil atf? I don’t get what British terms for things are sometimes, cultures divide by the same language
A different video idea, This will be interesting!! And maybe next time, try just oil additives.
Project Farm did a similar video.
The higher exhaust temperature for the vegetable oil makes sense to me : less viscosity means more oil finding its way into the cylinders, therefore more oil residue in the exhaust, therefore more thermal transfer.
When he said it smelled like a chippy I just assumed it was dieseling with whatever veg oil was getting past the rings, which would be consistent with higher EGT
Where did you buy them?
i liked the engine test, where can you buy the yellow engine?
Very cool test, thank you for sharing! 👍💪👍
I'm wondering if there would be a big difference if they were put under a load for an hour.
Fun facts hydraulic oil is actually quite comparable to mineral engine oil, its grade normally either ISO46 or ISO68 are SAE 10w-30 and 15w-40 they don't have the wear additive packages that engine oil does. But there flashpoints are identical. Unlike veg oil which differ between the various types of oil but are actually quiet low, which is why they make a great fuel.
Also where was the control
The only thing missing is the control engine using the correct engine oil. Then we have a true comparison with break-in glitter and temps reached. All we know now is the engines survived with what appears to be slightly higher temps.
This. Yes, without a control baseline run, it doesn't tell you anything.
It would have been nice to have seen the 3 engines broken in with the correct spec oil, disassembled enough to completely clean them out (ensuring a fair testing field), then run the tests as you did from there. All that was really confirmed here is that the 3 oil types are capable of lubricating the engines (though for how long, or to what degree is still unclear), and make a show of how badly the engines are constructed given just how much "glitter" there was in all 3.
I wonder if the vegetable oil wold do better if you were to add that lucas oil additive.
It would be great to see another engine as a control put through its paces the same as the first three but with the manufacturer's recommended oil. Then run all 4 again with the same test and see what the outcome was.
What is your second channel called, if you don't mind me asking and great video.
Daggerwin
What brand clone engine is that?m in the market for a cheapy cheap small engine like that.
I heard that engines can run a long time without (propper) oil if they arnt loaded with anything. Maybe next time attatcht a generator or something to it?
You should try that same experiment, but with lawn mowers
Those are mower engines
That makes zero sense. How do you think lawnmowers run?
Do you mean with something like a load on the engine?
What I meant by is running them on a machine like a water pump or a lawn lawnmower
Project Farm and Garage 54 have already answered these questions.
This is the kind of thing Project Farm used to do
The gear oil test is proof that you're better to go for a heavier oil than a lighter oil if you are unable to use an oil that's the required spec.
I think canola oil would be a good candidate since its original use was for oiling machinery before they switched to marketing it for cooking foods.
That's what he used dumbass, in many countries including the UK it is called Rapeseed oil and has been commercially farmed since the 1970s, Canada changed the name to Canola (Canada oil) when they started farming it in 1986.
After break in period. Do again?
Good way to start this Sunday
Could you use wax ,grease and wd40
best to try in winter and summer different read outs
The slightest breeze would alter your readings too. Especially on the fins.
Yeah Mr White! SCIENCE! 👨🔬
Love it. Put turbine oil in. Bp2380
In a long term test, I bet the vegetable oil will go rancid and turn to an icky gross mass of goo. I do love experimental videos!
Probably the case that the increased oil consumption of the veg oil would mean regular topping with fresh, and a consequent rejuvenating effect ?
Different type of vídeo, really interesting. These sorts can be used as in-between videos for projects that are taking longer to conplete.
Maybe try using vegetable oil instead of petrol
Vegetable oils can be used as fuel in Compression ignition engines (diesel) but not for internal combustion engines (petrol). These test engines had spark plugs, therefore they were NOT diesel.
It would have to be an LPG conversion for spark ignition, which would be interesting but probably beyond this video
You should have mixed all three for a test run.
You need a control. Use the recommend oil as an example so we have a point of comparison.
Great vid like always
Got a link for the engines?
Interesting but inconclusive. Probably should have run a control engine with regular engine oil for comparison 👍
Interesting test.
Mush up a load of bananas and put those in the crank case-the results would be very interesting!
There was once a company that sold an oil additive that they claimed would have enough residual lubrication that an engine could without oil for a period of time without damage. They demonstrated this with a Briggs and Stratton classic engine by using their additive, then after a run-in period, draining all the oil and running it again. Briggs and Stratton replicated the test but didn't bother with any additive and the engine ran for quite a while with no oil whatsoever. Kind of funny. These little engines, especially the honda clones, seem to take a lot of abuse. I've only ever managed to destroy one of these engines in many years of using them in pumps industrial applications where they are often neglected.
I think you could run anything from kerosene to gear oil in these little engines for a short period of time without damage. Not long term, of course. Hydraulic oil lacks the detergents and additives to deal with the products of combustion.
You should have had an oil analysis done on each post run.
It would have been good if you could have had a control engine, one that was running on the correct oil.
Rapeseed was used for very early farm equipment. I’m guessing it will do ok.
Please, do a collaboration with Project Farm. You may even get to meet cousin Eddy!
Should have included a control motor with recommended oil.
I would like to see a control with some decent engine oil. And break in the engines with engine oil first. Otherwise a fun test.
Very cool testing and data collection! Very insightful!
Did you happen to run a test on a new motor with all of the manufacturer's fluid recommendations as a control as well?
I'm looking forward to future endeavors on the channel.
Run one with vinegar, one with peanut butter, and the last one with nothing.
Would be good to take a compression test of all three engines and then run them again for another hour and take another compression reading
I'm surprised you didn't run a control motor with the correct oil.
your neighbors surely loved the test :)
Where did you buy them from buddy?
If I had to use one of those, I would.
Consider checking engine RPMs.
This would be handy to know if you’re in a pinch
How would you like your engine sir “deep fried”😅
I know people put gear oil in claped out cars to quiet the knocking from bad bearings so it works for a short time
When you said you weren't using a Briggs & Stratton it would have been okay to use one of them because some of the Clone engines are better than a Briggs & Stratton anymore.😂
do an equal mixture of all 3 and see how that runs an engine.
Try both together, hours until something happens, break, i dont know.
Canola oil is an acranim, Canadian oil low acid, it's better for your engine then it is for you.
You should join all the crack shafts together all 120 degrees apart and make a small 3 cylinder
Comparing apples to nothing without an engine with the proper oil in it.
Wait a minute, this isn't project farm!
i like this video idea
Seeing plastic gears in there hurts. I know it's common but it's just a time bomb. It makes the whole engine, all the time and materials a waste. Just to use a plastic gear. Most ppl wouldn't fix it, just chuck it
It still upsets me to see these brand new engines treated this way even if they are cheap clone engines, they maybe not the best quality but still a good little engine if looked after!
Hitting shiny stuff with those temp guns just doesn't work it's not even a ballpark guess they're not for reflective surfaces😂