Ignore the air bubble and read where the bottom of the plunger is. If you stop at 3.4, then do 1 - .34 = .66 (how much you used). The air bubble takes up the same volume as if it were the liquid so it doesn't matter if it's there or not.
In my town, everyone I know- even store owners- are removing the air from the syringe. They say that although you guys at Red Sea say there must be this air within it, the test results are usually way off in comparison to the Hanna test and when they remove the air, it just about matches it! I ran my test with air and it came out as 10.5dKH, and then without air and the result was 8.4dKH. What’s going on??
So the air gap between the fluid and the 1.0 mark doesn't matter? Is where I'm confused. I put the solution to the top of the 1.0 mark. And went off the fluid level instead of the plunger. If so I tested my tank wrong.. please help lol.
Makes complete sense since there’s always some left when test is completed. I always looked like I was about to shoot up in my kitchen trying to get all the air bubbles out too……this video was enlightening.
There are different tones of green. Should we consider the exact moment it goes from blue to a darker green, or should we consider that last drop of titrant right before we overdose it?
The change from blue to green is quite quick and from green to yellow is ~1-2 drops later, so as long as you identify the same point every time the +-1drop is insignificant. You will always aim for the same value\correction needed. (each drop is about 1 graduation which is 0.01ml=0.14dKH)
Hey Red Sea Having some issues with this test. With the "pro" version that comes with the foundation kit, I've tested 4 times now and after using slightly less than .4 ml it goes green and after .4 it goes yellow - that's extremely low Very strange because I have a relatively newer tank without a ton of coral growth and I do 15% water changes every week. What makes things weirder is when I use the standard KH kit that came in my Marine bundle, it reads closer to 8 dKH which is what I would expect. What's the deal here? I really doubt my dKH is actually in the low 5s as the pro kit says. I've run it 4 times now.
Why can you return the left over titrant for Calcium and Magnesium, but have to dispose of unused titrant for the kH test? Is this because you know people use the kH test more often and as such it would result in extra income for you, or is there science behind it?
The amount is negligible, whoever the KH reagent is much more sensitive to oxidation. Since it's both the titrant and indicator combined it might change its color and give an off reading over time.
If you are concerned about saving in reagent use, you can put less in the syringe given you know what your expected result would be around and calculate yourself the "amount used" (which would remain the same). Let's say your KH is around 9dKH, place 0.7ml (which is equivalent to 9.8dKH) in they syringe and test. You can save about 0.3ml that way. With reagent refill cost at $24.99 you can save about $0.10 per test.
I am just getting yellow all the time its not going blue at all , i have tried it in 3 different light sources and all the same it is very hard to determine any help would be great?
This makes it seem so easy with the time lapse and one minute its blue then green when in fact its very hard to tell what shade of green you are looking for! It goes from blue to blueish green and says to far when you have yellow but then it goes to a yellowish green. I would love to keep using this versus expensive refills with hanna but its just so hard to tell and since alk can be safe at a wide range the most important thing is consistency and I basically feel like i am guessing with this! One day I may think one shade of green is right and maybe the next a different shade. ITs to bad it dosnt go from blue to green the way you make it seem! You should have not used time lapse so we can see what the correct shade is! It would be much better if the color change was blue to red or something!!The other point is It says yellow when u have gone to far and the way you made it seem was just a few drops turns yellow when in fact it dosnt! It will stay a yellowish green for a long time! I guess I will have to keep buying the expensive hanna refills! Sucks but thought I would give it another try but just to confusing! Not to mention ya need really good eyes to read the line as and the alk solution makes the lines come off!
Ignore the air bubble and read where the bottom of the plunger is. If you stop at 3.4, then do 1 - .34 = .66 (how much you used). The air bubble takes up the same volume as if it were the liquid so it doesn't matter if it's there or not.
In my town, everyone I know- even store owners- are removing the air from the syringe. They say that although you guys at Red Sea say there must be this air within it, the test results are usually way off in comparison to the Hanna test and when they remove the air, it just about matches it! I ran my test with air and it came out as 10.5dKH, and then without air and the result was 8.4dKH. What’s going on??
It shouldn't matter, but you don't need to get the air bubble out as they volume you use is always the same.
My measure is 2 higher than ICP
So the air gap between the fluid and the 1.0 mark doesn't matter? Is where I'm confused. I put the solution to the top of the 1.0 mark. And went off the fluid level instead of the plunger. If so I tested my tank wrong.. please help lol.
Correct, read the bottom of the plunger. You can see an illustration in the user manual.
Makes complete sense since there’s always some left when test is completed. I always looked like I was about to shoot up in my kitchen trying to get all the air bubbles out too……this video was enlightening.
HEY BRO I ASK EXP DATE OF TEST WHERE
It's on each reagent bottle.
There are different tones of green. Should we consider the exact moment it goes from blue to a darker green, or should we consider that last drop of titrant right before we overdose it?
The change from blue to green is quite quick and from green to yellow is ~1-2 drops later, so as long as you identify the same point every time the +-1drop is insignificant. You will always aim for the same value\correction needed. (each drop is about 1 graduation which is 0.01ml=0.14dKH)
Hey Red Sea
Having some issues with this test.
With the "pro" version that comes with the foundation kit, I've tested 4 times now and after using slightly less than .4 ml it goes green and after .4 it goes yellow - that's extremely low
Very strange because I have a relatively newer tank without a ton of coral growth and I do 15% water changes every week.
What makes things weirder is when I use the standard KH kit that came in my Marine bundle, it reads closer to 8 dKH which is what I would expect.
What's the deal here? I really doubt my dKH is actually in the low 5s as the pro kit says.
I've run it 4 times now.
Hi, Please reach out to our tech support. They would love to assist.
g1.redseafish.com/support/tech-support-inquiry-2021/
No doubt about it, the titration tip is very annoying
what is the use of foundation in the test kit?
Hi, why my firt drop doesn't change salt water into blue? and more drop change my water into yellow not green
Please reach out to our support, we'll be happy to help.
A short video could help us understand the issue better.
My redsea is out of whack giving 6.8 dkh when is 9.9
Contact our support, the can figure it out and assist.
@Redseafish found my LFS sold me an expired product, and I did return it.
Why can you return the left over titrant for Calcium and Magnesium, but have to dispose of unused titrant for the kH test? Is this because you know people use the kH test more often and as such it would result in extra income for you, or is there science behind it?
The amount is negligible, whoever the KH reagent is much more sensitive to oxidation. Since it's both the titrant and indicator combined it might change its color and give an off reading over time.
If you are concerned about saving in reagent use, you can put less in the syringe given you know what your expected result would be around and calculate yourself the "amount used" (which would remain the same).
Let's say your KH is around 9dKH, place 0.7ml (which is equivalent to 9.8dKH) in they syringe and test. You can save about 0.3ml that way. With reagent refill cost at $24.99 you can save about $0.10 per test.
I am just getting yellow all the time its not going blue at all , i have tried it in 3 different light sources and all the same it is very hard to determine any help would be great?
Please reach out to our tech support. It'll be easier to walk you through with pictures and sort the issue out.
how did you know you only used .61 how did you get that number
1.00 - 0.39 = 0.61 (it's explained at 2:05)
dej4n you're correct.
This makes it seem so easy with the time lapse and one minute its blue then green when in fact its very hard to tell what shade of green you are looking for! It goes from blue to blueish green and says to far when you have yellow but then it goes to a yellowish green. I would love to keep using this versus expensive refills with hanna but its just so hard to tell and since alk can be safe at a wide range the most important thing is consistency and I basically feel like i am guessing with this! One day I may think one shade of green is right and maybe the next a different shade. ITs to bad it dosnt go from blue to green the way you make it seem! You should have not used time lapse so we can see what the correct shade is! It would be much better if the color change was blue to red or something!!The other point is It says yellow when u have gone to far and the way you made it seem was just a few drops turns yellow when in fact it dosnt! It will stay a yellowish green for a long time! I guess I will have to keep buying the expensive hanna refills! Sucks but thought I would give it another try but just to confusing! Not to mention ya need really good eyes to read the line as and the alk solution makes the lines come off!
Nice video, very helpful.
Not a fan of this kit (I like the others), any test that has a "too far" is no good. You could choose a shade of green different each test.
Not really, the changes are within a drop or two which being very small making the result be extremely accurate time after time.
All I got was pale blue to pale green to pale yellow
Please contact ours support, they'll be able to help you.
www.redseafish.com/support/tech-support-inquiry-2021/