my mom used to drive the 1st gen. ami 6, back in the day, back and forth from work, and it drove and drove... I recall my dad redoing the engine cylinders just passed 250k miles ... and after that she went on till she retired ... so I guess we had that ami 6 for at least 35 plus years ... I hated that car, even if I took my first driving lessons with my dad, on a decommissioned airfield ... at the age of 13 ... LOL WHAT I DID NOT KNOW : the riding height can be adjusted ... LOL ... I feel so ignorant, but it gives me back nice memories ... so I had to subscribe ... two thumbs up for Ollie!
Super, helpful series of videos, Monsieur Pickard! On my Dyane at least, the threads on the tie-rod are M11 x 1mm so one complete rotation adjusts the length by 1mm. Some rough measurements with a tape measure show the wheel hub is about 7 times further from the swing arm bearing centre than the line of force of the tie rod so ride height change will be about 7 times the rod length change. Now because these cars have front and rear inter-connected, and bacause the swing arms aren't level etc etc this will be really rough but basically.... .....one turn of the tie rod should give 7mm change of ride height. Safety note: I was adjusting mine as the rear was rather low. I stripped the knife edges apart to grease them the proper way and found the car was low because the eyes had worn within 2mm of cutting right through due to running without grease for years!!! My heart stopped for a moment; If this had failed the suspension would have collapsed. .... So, as my Uncle Mac taught me long before I even knew what the knife edges were, on all A-series Citroens slacken off the tie rods and fully remove the knife edge and pack the eye with grease properly. Admit it, you know that smearing grease on the outside is never going to reach the knife edge is it? It's messy but surprisingly easy to do. Get them really slack is the key to easy disassembly. Done every year before winter, the rods will just spin out by hand. Might be an idea to oil then wrap, tape or cover the exposed threads.
My little grease tube actually does a very good job but it's a minimum. I agree that using a brush as some advice is net to useless. And this isn't a service or overhaul but that's a video I'll make in future I don't give exact measurements because some 2cvs aren't interconnected and ofcorse Acadyanes are longer and use different tie rods so results may vary
Ollie, yes your coveralls are far to short and your hair is a mess, but your videos makes me happy and I always smile. Great video and keep up the utterly utterly great work.
Hi buddy! I wish i had teachers like you at school when i was a little boy! 😊 So, if you ever fancy a new career... 😉 I'm still amazed how simple it is (or looks like it is) to work on a 2CV! It's such a brilliant design, especially the suspension. Thanks for every advice and explanation! Lovely video, i'm looking forward to the next ones! 😃
Thanks, Oliver. Good job. It would have been nice to see a before and after comparison (over the rear wheel on the skirt...) to be able to comprehend the difference in height. I'm looking forward to the next two videos.
I went a little higher to make the next Wednesdays video easier to film and then adjusted it back down to the 5mm lift I did in the video. which =2.5cm(ish) but results may possibly vary
I’m amazed how clean your car is, you must put it on a lift and clean it every you clean the paintwork. My car has it’s underneath covered in thick black Waxoyl
I clean the underside every time I clean the pain because my chassis often gets covered in cow poo & I have a video about winter prep if you want to know my tips and tricks
NEVER EVER go under a car with just a jack. You need to have a jack stand. I always have two things under the car. I raise the car, lower it on a jack stand, leave the jack next to it, just in case we have a failure. I have to stop driving my Corvair and do not drive it until after we have a good rain in early spring. Need to have any salt residue washed off the roads. You would not believe how much salt is used in Minnesota USA. Back in the "old" days cars would have rust at 4-5 years, many of them would have actual holes at five years. Modern cars go well past ten years with no issues. Nut and bolts get difficult to remove after a few years. When I rebuilt my 65 Corvair's suspension, I replaced every threaded part. There is actually a kit you can buy that has all the parts that make it easy.
I didn't take a wheel off the ground or physically go under the car at any point (I am next to it) the jack is there simply to take up the sag in the suspension so it is easier to adjust
What about the opposite scenario if you want to raise your ride hight for rougher terrain driving. I always see those "raid" 2cv's with higher ground clearance. Are they just adjusting the height ?
Yes although you can't lift earlier cars quite as high as later cars because of the lack of CV joints and interconnected suspension, adding larger tires usually 135 or even larger like those fitted to the DS also helps with the lift
No problem although I would add that the first 2cv to drive around the world did it in the 50s and the first mass raid of 2cvs was Iraq and back using 1963s just like Jolene if I remember correctly. So even older 2cvs are extremely capable off road
Have recently become a 2cv6 owner (1982). Saw your video and decided to try and fix a decided lean to the driver's. Tried for hours to rotate the tie rods with no success. Would welcome any and all suggestions as I really want to fix the problem. P.S. where I live I doubt we have a Citroen mechanic/dealership within a radius of 2000 miles!!
I cannot stress this enough: the wheel is not off the ground! you only take up the sag in the suspension to remove stress from the threads in the rod end and the job does not require you being under the car at any point
Hi Oliver! Love your videos. I live in the Tarn and have a 2CV6 - one of the last 100 off the production line in Portugual in 1990. Your video was very helpful but a couple of points worth noting. I have just put the ride height right on my car. The correct heights maybe less important on older and 'floppier' 2CVs but the height will have a significant effect on the car's handling becuase raising or lowering the car affects the caster angle (15 degrees on my 2CV) which will in turn affect how well the steering recentres and the car steers and handles. The Citroen Specials guys have a good entry on this at (www.citroenspecialsclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=462). On later cars one turn of the tie rod equates to about a 5mm change in ride height and that in turn will lead to about a 0.75 degree change in the caster angle. The special ratchet tool you can buy is useful for winding the tie rods several rotations but because it can only address the flats on the tie rod from one direction, the best you can do with it is to get the suspension to within about 5mm of the correct height. The 'adapter nut' (a slot in a peice of hex bar to be used with a spanner) is a pain to use but you can get the suspension exactly correct because with a spanner you can address the adapter from several angles. You are lucky not to have shock absorbers because the only other way to address the flats on the tie bars of later cars is if you take all four shockers off! I found that the suspension interacts to some extent from both side-to-side and front-to-rear which means getting the ride height correct is an iterative process. On later cars, or at least on mine, the rear tie rods are locked by pairs of 19mm nuts which you need to slack off before making the adjustment. It's handy to mark the tie bar with a dash of paint so you can keep count of the rotations. Finally, I would definitely recommend taking the car for a cautious run after making any major adjustment to the ride height, correcting the 2cm sage at the rear suspension on my car transformed the handling. I am an old retired geezer and it is great to see a young and enthusiastic 2CV nut living the dream in rural France. All best wishes to you - and keep the videos coming!
Yes I agree with how you have done this Oliver, there is plenty of ground clearance under a 2CV so pretty safe with what you were doing. I wouldn't be happy with just a jack if a wheel was off and you were right under the car (but you weren't doing that). The car that makes me nervous to be under even with axle strands in place is my Citroën D. I thought about working out the ratio for ever turn of the rod how much that adjusts the ride height. Should be relatively easy to work out from the thread pitch and the ratio of the difference between the wheel axle to the arm pivot point and the knife edge to arm pivot point.
![Appreciating Value [Unlocked]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qJc-ewvBxM8/mqdefault.jpg)
my mom used to drive the 1st gen. ami 6, back in the day, back and forth from work, and it drove and drove...
I recall my dad redoing the engine cylinders just passed 250k miles ... and after that she went on till she retired ... so I guess we had that ami 6 for at least 35 plus years ... I hated that car, even if I took my first driving lessons with my dad, on a decommissioned airfield ... at the age of 13 ... LOL
WHAT I DID NOT KNOW : the riding height can be adjusted ... LOL ... I feel so ignorant, but it gives me back nice memories ... so I had to subscribe ... two thumbs up for Ollie!
Oliver has taught me several things about my 2CV. Oliver is cool and knows a lot. I really like Oliver and his channel!
Thank you so much
I'm not usually jealous but your car is gorgeous and rural France looks so peaceful.
Thank you very much
Super, helpful series of videos, Monsieur Pickard! On my Dyane at least, the threads on the tie-rod are M11 x 1mm so one complete rotation adjusts the length by 1mm. Some rough measurements with a tape measure show the wheel hub is about 7 times further from the swing arm bearing centre than the line of force of the tie rod so ride height change will be about 7 times the rod length change. Now because these cars have front and rear inter-connected, and bacause the swing arms aren't level etc etc this will be really rough but basically....
.....one turn of the tie rod should give 7mm change of ride height.
Safety note: I was adjusting mine as the rear was rather low. I stripped the knife edges apart to grease them the proper way and found the car was low because the eyes had worn within 2mm of cutting right through due to running without grease for years!!! My heart stopped for a moment; If this had failed the suspension would have collapsed.
.... So, as my Uncle Mac taught me long before I even knew what the knife edges were, on all A-series Citroens slacken off the tie rods and fully remove the knife edge and pack the eye with grease properly. Admit it, you know that smearing grease on the outside is never going to reach the knife edge is it? It's messy but surprisingly easy to do. Get them really slack is the key to easy disassembly. Done every year before winter, the rods will just spin out by hand. Might be an idea to oil then wrap, tape or cover the exposed threads.
My little grease tube actually does a very good job but it's a minimum. I agree that using a brush as some advice is net to useless. And this isn't a service or overhaul but that's a video I'll make in future
I don't give exact measurements because some 2cvs aren't interconnected and ofcorse Acadyanes are longer and use different tie rods so results may vary
Ollie, yes your coveralls are far to short and your hair is a mess, but your videos makes me happy and I always smile. Great video and keep up the utterly utterly great work.
They are my spare overalls that I keep in my boot just incase 😅 im glad your enjoying the videos
They are my spare overalls that I keep in my boot just incase 😅 im glad your enjoying the videos
Lovely rust free condition under there. Every time watch one of your videos makes me want a 2cv. Got too many cars,no time and live in big city.
Haha I've never been so happy to be a bad influence
Hi buddy! I wish i had teachers like you at school when i was a little boy! 😊 So, if you ever fancy a new career... 😉 I'm still amazed how simple it is (or looks like it is) to work on a 2CV! It's such a brilliant design, especially the suspension. Thanks for every advice and explanation! Lovely video, i'm looking forward to the next ones! 😃
Thank you very much it's simple once you understand the Citroen logic so can be a little bewildering at times lol
@@OliverPickard They just had too much time to engineer the 2CV during the war i guess 😉 But that's also why everything is so very clever made! 😃
Thanks, Oliver. Good job. It would have been nice to see a before and after comparison (over the rear wheel on the skirt...) to be able to comprehend the difference in height. I'm looking forward to the next two videos.
I went a little higher to make the next Wednesdays video easier to film and then adjusted it back down to the 5mm lift I did in the video. which =2.5cm(ish) but results may possibly vary
Lovely clear and easy to follow.
Thankyou Oliver!
great video pal my dolly is sagging lots on front passenger side could it be this problem ?
Thanks Oliver for your great video.
I’m amazed how clean your car is, you must put it on a lift and clean it every you clean the paintwork. My car has it’s underneath covered in thick black Waxoyl
I clean the underside every time I clean the pain because my chassis often gets covered in cow poo & I have a video about winter prep if you want to know my tips and tricks
It's whats going on under the waxoyl you have to worry about. Most importantly though, whats going on inside the chassis!
Thank you,😊
NEVER EVER go under a car with just a jack. You need to have a jack stand. I always have two things under the car. I raise the car, lower it on a jack stand, leave the jack next to it, just in case we have a failure.
I have to stop driving my Corvair and do not drive it until after we have a good rain in early spring. Need to have any salt residue washed off the roads. You would not believe how much salt is used in Minnesota USA. Back in the "old" days cars would have rust at 4-5 years, many of them would have actual holes at five years. Modern cars go well past ten years with no issues. Nut and bolts get difficult to remove after a few years. When I rebuilt my 65 Corvair's suspension, I replaced every threaded part. There is actually a kit you can buy that has all the parts that make it easy.
There is a Corvair for sale here locally for way too much money haha I'll be doing a winter prep anti rust video soon
I didn't take a wheel off the ground or physically go under the car at any point (I am next to it) the jack is there simply to take up the sag in the suspension so it is easier to adjust
Great video, thanks Oliver!!
I'm glad you enjoyed it 👍🏻
What about the opposite scenario if you want to raise your ride hight for rougher terrain driving. I always see those "raid" 2cv's with higher ground clearance. Are they just adjusting the height ?
Yes although you can't lift earlier cars quite as high as later cars because of the lack of CV joints and interconnected suspension, adding larger tires usually 135 or even larger like those fitted to the DS also helps with the lift
@@OliverPickard Thanks for the heads up as usual you are of great help Oliver. A true gentlemen!
No problem although I would add that the first 2cv to drive around the world did it in the 50s and the first mass raid of 2cvs was Iraq and back using 1963s just like Jolene if I remember correctly. So even older 2cvs are extremely capable off road
Have recently become a 2cv6 owner (1982). Saw your video and decided to try and fix a decided lean to the driver's. Tried for hours to rotate the tie rods with no success. Would welcome any and all suggestions as I really want to fix the problem.
P.S. where I live I doubt we have a Citroen mechanic/dealership within a radius of 2000 miles!!
How many mm you can lowered this car with this kind of job? It works on dyane too?
How low you can go depends on the hight your car is currently at and yes it works perfectly on a Dyane
I cannot stress enough: to not ever do a repair job on your car when it is only supported by a jack!! Always use proper supports!
I cannot stress this enough: the wheel is not off the ground! you only take up the sag in the suspension to remove stress from the threads in the rod end and the job does not require you being under the car at any point
so how much did the 5mm raise the car?
Approximately 2.5cm but results may vary
Hi Oliver! Love your videos. I live in the Tarn and have a 2CV6 - one of the last 100 off the production line in Portugual in 1990. Your video was very helpful but a couple of points worth noting. I have just put the ride height right on my car. The correct heights maybe less important on older and 'floppier' 2CVs but the height will have a significant effect on the car's handling becuase raising or lowering the car affects the caster angle (15 degrees on my 2CV) which will in turn affect how well the steering recentres and the car steers and handles. The Citroen Specials guys have a good entry on this at (www.citroenspecialsclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=462). On later cars one turn of the tie rod equates to about a 5mm change in ride height and that in turn will lead to about a 0.75 degree change in the caster angle. The special ratchet tool you can buy is useful for winding the tie rods several rotations but because it can only address the flats on the tie rod from one direction, the best you can do with it is to get the suspension to within about 5mm of the correct height. The 'adapter nut' (a slot in a peice of hex bar to be used with a spanner) is a pain to use but you can get the suspension exactly correct because with a spanner you can address the adapter from several angles. You are lucky not to have shock absorbers because the only other way to address the flats on the tie bars of later cars is if you take all four shockers off! I found that the suspension interacts to some extent from both side-to-side and front-to-rear which means getting the ride height correct is an iterative process. On later cars, or at least on mine, the rear tie rods are locked by pairs of 19mm nuts which you need to slack off before making the adjustment. It's handy to mark the tie bar with a dash of paint so you can keep count of the rotations. Finally, I would definitely recommend taking the car for a cautious run after making any major adjustment to the ride height, correcting the 2cm sage at the rear suspension on my car transformed the handling. I am an old retired geezer and it is great to see a young and enthusiastic 2CV nut living the dream in rural France. All best wishes to you - and keep the videos coming!
Yes I agree with how you have done this Oliver, there is plenty of ground clearance under a 2CV so pretty safe with what you were doing. I wouldn't be happy with just a jack if a wheel was off and you were right under the car (but you weren't doing that). The car that makes me nervous to be under even with axle strands in place is my Citroën D.
I thought about working out the ratio for ever turn of the rod how much that adjusts the ride height. Should be relatively easy to work out from the thread pitch and the ratio of the difference between the wheel axle to the arm pivot point and the knife edge to arm pivot point.
5mm=2.5cm roughly but results may vary 👍
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Far, far, far too wordy. Get on with it please!