Finally we have a drilling operation that shows a grouting job as is required in most if not all states. Florida requires that grout be pumped from 10 ft. of the top of the screen to the surface if a screen is used. otherwise the casing must be grouted with neat cement form the bottom of the casing to the top.
6 years later how's it going im a welder looking to switch careers I'm a really good welder but I absolutely hate it with a passion and the most you'll ever make at a Monday through Friday job welding with a decent company and good benefits is 18-20 an hour I can make that doing something I actually like or atleast tolerate found a water well drilling job near me but never even knew it was a thing until recently just trying to see if this would be a decent paying long term career with a family man I like to to get muddy greasy and work hard
@@dirttrackdevil1149 certain well drilling companies especially one's that do large diameter drilling have to have people that know how to weld when setting casing so it gives you a chance to mix it up a little
The cost of wells in our area range from $5,000 to $150,000 depending upon the depth of the well and the size and type of pumping equipment that is needed to meet the demand of our customers. Every well is custom engineered to your specific site to meet your specific needs.
Jim Blair ok im in texas by midlothian. what is a good estimate for a well here per ft? everyone in this area have 300-350' wells. sand, shale , sand, shale all the way down. no rock.
Congratulations for the good work, I am a water well driller in Brazil. I work with a rotopneumatic machine and do dowsing to find geological faults. I would like to work with drilling in the United States in the future.
Best well drilling video I've seen so far on UA-cam. Great job describing each step and also showing the packer assembly. I'm surprised you don't use Bentonite clay to grout the well instead of cement, is there a reason for this? Keep up the good work!
When I had my 6 inch well drilled in south west Wisconsin..451 feet.. the driller called me to say he had good news and bad news. Normally we only need 40 feet of casing..steel..but your well required 80 feet before re got to bedrock ..$$$..The good news is you are sitting on a huge limestone/gravel pit. Your land is worth a fortune. My 1.5 hp pump is sitting at 375 feet and he said I am in an underground stream and it will never go dry. If I put my head to the well head, I can hear the water flowing. The pump is on 21 foot sections of galvanized pipe and when I had the pump replaced about 15 years ago, he said they are now hanging them on pvc flex pipe which makes pulling the pump much easier. If you have any comments, I’d appreciate it. (When there was a terrible drought in CA about 25 years ago, I asked him why he didn’t go to CA to drill and he said a well driller will never go outside his area due to caves and I know where they are here.)
Here in the san joquin valley california we drill ag wells 28” hole reverse circulation, casing usually 16 to 18”. Depth is anywere between 400 to 1300’
How do you keep the hole from caving before you get the casing in? Thank you for all the detail. Also why here in northeast NY State does every driller use steel instead of pvc. I like the idea of the perferated section. Here for gravel wells they just have the bottom of the open casing sitting on the bottom of the well
Wow that’s pretty deep for that part of Texas. I’m in deep east Texas and had a well drilled 3 months ago. Depth was 140’ and producing 35 GPH with 625 TDS. Average cost to drill in that area is $8500-$10k a well, that includes pump and pressure tank. Now knowing how much it costs in that area, I’ll give you a bit of information if your from that area....some of these companies are ripping land owners off. Local drillers rely on the land owners lack of research to screw them over. So before you hire, play the game. I called 3 local contractors and obtained 3 quotes. Wait 3 months and have a family or friend call the same companies and get 3 more quotes. In my situation, the price of the quotes had increased by $2-4k!!!! I called a contractor in the next town over and got a quote for $5700 and did the same, waited 3 months and his quote came back $5700. This was who we went with.
@@tonyhudson8698 while price is always the first thing people look at that can be a mistake, there's lots of other factors to consider first and since there's never any engineered drawings to go by when doing residential drilling you will want to look at what the quote includes such as is there surface casing required, is one driller short casing the actual well casing so they don't have to use surface casing when needed trying to make the the job cheaper, what kind and how much well casing, the total depth, are they using the correct size drop pipe for the particular pump gpm and depth, are they using a 2 wire pump or a 3 wire pump, are they using a properly sized pressure tank for the hp and gallon per minute of the pump output. There are more factors to consider but those are the main ones. There's a lot of instances where the contractor will use too small of a tank when there's no one to enforce it to cheapen it up just to get the job from a contractor that may be higher but is going to do the job right
I saw a well-drilling video recently where the drillers failed to find water on the first go. How do you know where to drill in order to find a good water source, divining/dowsing rods or more modern electronic means?
I have found nothing that can reliably tell me if we are going to hit water. There are many people that will tell you they can tell before I drill. But, none have ever proven to be more reliable than the average of drilling without them.
We actually use bentonite and cement. We use bentonite to seal the packer and then cement to hold the casing in place. We make sure we have at least 20' of cement.
There is no fool proof way to estimate flow, especially when drilling with a hammer. We use pressure tests when we can. We also simply estimate the flow based on the production we see at the surface. But, we are never sure until we set a pump and perform a true draw-down test.
well articulated video. Thanks to Bee Cave. Am planning to start up a drilling company at my home in Nigeria, West Africa but I dont know a good drilling machine to purchase. Though i like this one you used in this video. How much do you think i can get it and where can I get it. Please help me with a suggestion. Thanks once again
The rig you see in the video was manufactured by GEFCO, also known as Speedstar. The one in the video is a model 30K-DH. They are (in my opinion) the best rigs for the type of drilling that I do. But, there are many good options out there. I know that they ship rigs all over the world. The rigs from India are usually much cheaper, but I have some questions about safety. Never run one of those so i don't know. Good luck.
@Nathan Hamilton We air drill about 95% of the wells that we drill. But when we need to mud drill, we have two rigs equipped with mud pumps to mud drill. We also use a Mud Puppy to clean the mud and dump the crud.
We hired a company to create a TV advertisement for us about 10 years ago. They created the song. Kind of catchy huh? We love it. I don't remember the name of the company.
Should re use the water have some kind of shakers to take cuttings out and re pump the water. Not familiar with water well drilling but got a lot of experience in oil well drilling.
Also when you run that packing seal on the casing that’s gonna drag a lot of shit down to the production water since it’s bigger than the hole diameter, guessing when you instal a water pump it filters it tho.
In most of our wells, we are drilling in solid limestone that will not collapse. But occasionally we encounter loose soils that need to be held back. We do that in several ways from surface casing, mud drillling, cementing off the zone and redrilling, etc. Basically, we do what we feel is best for the site conditions.
@@jamescambell1386 I actually got a practical answer to my question last week. A friend of mine was drilling a well in SW Washington and the driller hit loose shale around 400 feet. Unfortunately it didnt get any better and the recommendation from the driller was to try to drive well casing through the shale until they were out of it, or drill in another spot.
The problem with shale is water. I was main driller at lackey 13 years and when you drill through it and past it it begins to hydrate which makes it swell then crumble of the annulus(falling in) we drill reverse rotary and all we could do is make the fluid thick as possible so the shale doesnt hydrate as fast. Depending on the rate of it fallin in we would drill past TD anywere between 10 and 50 ft then pull our drill pipe out and case it gravel it as fast as we could. Always worked good. Shale fallin in wont stick your pipe like sand will. I remember a time we drilled a 1000’ 28”hole and the day shift started runnin the casing(16” .312 steel) and 500’ into it the elevator latch caught the other set of blocks and dropped it down the hole. We made a fish tool and got it out. But over the week it sat down there it had got almost completely covered by shale. Luckily by the time we were ready to fish we tagged the shale fill at 600’ so thats like 300’ of shale our casing was burried in and it pulled out easily
the guy puts it in the track which is slightly down hill, then the driller has a lever that lowers the winch holding the top of the rod, bringing it down, and since the other end of rod is in the track going down hill into there designated rod section on truck.
The most common way we deal with sulfur gas is to add a storage tank system. You can see that here. ua-cam.com/video/fTJrRpVkiTI/v-deo.html Start at 2:38 to see the discussion on sulfur gas.
we always drill the casing first until we hit >2 meters in solid bedrock. then cast the seal before starting the actual borehole. but im more used to granit than limestone
Yes, that is normal practice in Granite formations. We do that too sometimes. But most of our wells are in limestone with layers of clay and sandstone. Therefore, most of our wells are cased to total depth.
am so happy and much interested in the bole hole drilling in my home town uhunowere in Igbo eze south please your contact and your information is needed
The cost for a residential well can vary wildly depending upon the depth, size, and construction requirements in your area. We see most wells are between $10K and $50K but we need to know exactly where you are and what type of system you want before we can give you a price.
That sounds like a lot of fun, but i don't think you want to pay to get me and my equipment there. Hopefully, you can find someone there that can get you some water. May God bless you.
Gravel packing is a great way to complete a well but you need a larger diameter hole to assure that the gravel gets in place. In wells that have a lot of clay or sand near the production zone, we do gravel pack them instead of using a shale trap. For simple limestone holes like this one, this is the lowest cost option that always works great.
Nice rig but I can't for the life of me understand why you would cement in the casing you produce through. Here we cement in surface casing to bedrock then run our well casing to bottom. This way it can be pulled if well ever needs serviced as water comes in from formation over time can wash in sentiment and reduce the water production. By having the well casing pullable you can go in and clean out the well and set it back. If that happen here you screwed as everything is locked in cement.
We have a couple of local factors that lead to this type of installation. First of all, we don't have "bedrock" as you describe it. The majority of our hole is soft limestones and clays that we have to case off. The production zone is also limestone in most cases. When we install the casing, the soft limestones and clays will silt in and prevent us from ever pulling the casing later. In addition, we have multiple production zones as we go down that often are required to be restricted. In many cases, we have to cement the casing in place from the production zone back to the surface. So, for most of our areas, this type of installation works best. But, we do have some areas that have a hard granite type rock that allow for the type of installation that you mention. As you know, we always have to adjust our engineering to fit what we find when we punch that hole. Good luck to you out there and Keep it turnin' to the right!
@@jimblair1 that makes more sense as I spent years as a driller in the oilfields. So I am aware of how geology can change even across just a short distance. True I am not familiar with the geology in your area but in all the different limestone zones I have encountered it was anything but soft. But that is just how it is here in the mountains of WV. But I still don't understand why you couldn't set your outer casing in a soft formation with a open hole packer cement it in then drill on through target formation to place the production liner. This is a process we use to produce gas and oil from a very soft zone called Devonian Shale. The silting in of the production zone is the reason for need to be able to pull liner out to clean out and free up the production flow. Yes I have seen that silted in and makes it difficult to pull. But if it's really that soft one should be able to put a pull on it along with back flushing under some pressure and work it free. Something I have done many many times no matter oil, gas or water cleaning out to improve production over time is necessary.
@@kenjett2434 Certainly can't pull it if it is cemented in place. That is more common than not with the commingling issues and local restrictions. Yes, we could have 2 strings of casing down the hole. But that would greatly increase the cost of a well. For example, that well in the video is a 400' hole drilled to 6.75". In order to have 2 strings, we would have to drill a 12" hole, set 8" casing. Cement that in place to 360'. Then drill out the bottom and install the 4.5" casing. It will work great. But it will triple the cost of the well. All this so you can clean out the bottom of the well. Instead, we just jet the well out if it gets dirty. Check out my video about jetting and acidizing wells. Yes, i know this is not the way it is done in WV. But it works great here in TX.
@@jimblair1 this is true I don't know about Texas including cost. I have noticed though in Texas and in some other states starting with 12inch more. I can't understand why such a big starting hole for a 500ft well? Seems 8 inch hole would do the job and allow a 6 1/2 surface string to be cemented then a cheaper PVC liner could be installed to bottom. That would add a small added cost during construction yes but what it could and would save later in cost of well cleaning would more than make up. Sounds like the process you described for restoring well flow is elaborate and expensive. When a traditional rig could come in pull the liner go in and stir up the more bail out the silt replace the liner and with a simple pump do a good flush and put the well back in production. I have worked in areas where having and surface water can be a issue during drilling. But in those cases we still only started with 10 inch and used drive pipe as we drilled down. Then pulled the drive pipe back for next hole to reuse. I understand how what you do works but it don't leave many options to come back later to make repairs of the well. It's better to keep some options available just my opinion.
That's gobs of water, Supa!! Remember - the gpm is the rate that's flowing into the well, the recharge. That 20 - 25 gpm is 24/7. My well is around 10 gpm & I've never run out of water! Here's why - once you hit water, your casing is acting as a semi-filled standpipe of hundreds or even { depending on your well depth } thousands of gallons of available water. If you exhausted it, then yes...you'd be down to 20 to 25 gpm….but that's probably not going to happen, unless you're filling a swimming pool...……...
I am sorry that the sound didn't work for you. I assure you that there is a sound track. You might need to update the software on your computer. Not sure which you are using. Maybe Flash. Try it again.
I've been a water well driller in Australia for 30 years and never ever used PVC Casey it's never been successful you try and get your pump out in five years time and it's collapsed on it and the whole things a waste of time and waste of money steel casing stainless steel screens is the only way to go
I appreciate that what you use works great for you. But, you need to realize that there is not one product available that is best for all situations. For instance, the water in our area is very aggressive towards steel pipe. In some cases, the steel will rust through in less than 5 years. We offer steel, pvc, and fiberglass casing depending on the needs of the customer and the condition of the aquifer.
Love the Bee Cave Drilling jingle! Great video!
Finally we have a drilling operation that shows a grouting job as is required in most if not all states. Florida requires that grout be pumped from 10 ft. of the top of the screen to the surface if a screen is used. otherwise the casing must be grouted with neat cement form the bottom of the casing to the top.
One of the best video I have seen, don't know much about rotary drilling been running a cable tool for 25 years.
69druth hey. r u still subscribed to me? haven't really heard from you
great video. I'm starting my new job tomorrow and this sure helped . coming from the oil fields this seems like a cake walk
6 years later how's it going im a welder looking to switch careers I'm a really good welder but I absolutely hate it with a passion and the most you'll ever make at a Monday through Friday job welding with a decent company and good benefits is 18-20 an hour I can make that doing something I actually like or atleast tolerate found a water well drilling job near me but never even knew it was a thing until recently just trying to see if this would be a decent paying long term career with a family man I like to to get muddy greasy and work hard
@@dirttrackdevil1149 certain well drilling companies especially one's that do large diameter drilling have to have people that know how to weld when setting casing so it gives you a chance to mix it up a little
@@dirttrackdevil1149 where are you out of
Very different than we do it in NJ, but mainly due to state regs. Its nice to see drillers/pump guys that give a damn.
The cost of wells in our area range from $5,000 to $150,000 depending upon the depth of the well and the size and type of pumping equipment that is needed to meet the demand of our customers. Every well is custom engineered to your specific site to meet your specific needs.
Jim Blair ok im in texas by midlothian. what is a good estimate for a well here per ft? everyone in this area have 300-350' wells. sand, shale , sand, shale all the way down. no rock.
Congratulations for the good work,
I am a water well driller in Brazil.
I work with a rotopneumatic machine
and do dowsing to find geological faults.
I would like to work with drilling in the
United States in the future.
Best well drilling video I've seen so far on UA-cam. Great job describing each step and also showing the packer assembly. I'm surprised you don't use Bentonite clay to grout the well instead of cement, is there a reason for this? Keep up the good work!
Bentonite will plug of your zone. Better to use polymer because it breaks down after a week or two. Bentonite is forever
When I had my 6 inch well drilled in south west Wisconsin..451 feet.. the driller called me to say he had good news and bad news. Normally we only need 40 feet of casing..steel..but your well required 80 feet before re got to bedrock ..$$$..The good news is you are sitting on a huge limestone/gravel pit. Your land is worth a fortune. My 1.5 hp pump is sitting at 375 feet and he said I am in an underground stream and it will never go dry. If I put my head to the well head, I can hear the water flowing. The pump is on 21 foot sections of galvanized pipe and when I had the pump replaced about 15 years ago, he said they are now hanging them on pvc flex pipe which makes pulling the pump much easier. If you have any comments, I’d appreciate it.
(When there was a terrible drought in CA about 25 years ago, I asked him why he didn’t go to CA to drill and he said a well driller will never go outside his area due to caves and I know where they are here.)
Here in the san joquin valley california we drill ag wells 28” hole reverse circulation, casing usually 16 to 18”. Depth is anywere between 400 to 1300’
How do you keep the hole from caving before you get the casing in? Thank you for all the detail. Also why here in northeast NY State does every driller use steel instead of pvc. I like the idea of the perferated section. Here for gravel wells they just have the bottom of the open casing sitting on the bottom of the well
Informative video. Thanks and all the best. 👍
which country is this??
Wow that’s pretty deep for that part of Texas. I’m in deep east Texas and had a well drilled 3 months ago. Depth was 140’ and producing 35 GPH with 625 TDS. Average cost to drill in that area is $8500-$10k a well, that includes pump and pressure tank. Now knowing how much it costs in that area, I’ll give you a bit of information if your from that area....some of these companies are ripping land owners off. Local drillers rely on the land owners lack of research to screw them over. So before you hire, play the game. I called 3 local contractors and obtained 3 quotes. Wait 3 months and have a family or friend call the same companies and get 3 more quotes. In my situation, the price of the quotes had increased by $2-4k!!!! I called a contractor in the next town over and got a quote for $5700 and did the same, waited 3 months and his quote came back $5700. This was who we went with.
Thats not a good way to choose a well drilling company and if you want to know why just ask
@@markwilliams4525how do you choose a Drilling company,????,
Thanks in advance, sir..
@@tonyhudson8698 while price is always the first thing people look at that can be a mistake, there's lots of other factors to consider first and since there's never any engineered drawings to go by when doing residential drilling you will want to look at what the quote includes such as is there surface casing required, is one driller short casing the actual well casing so they don't have to use surface casing when needed trying to make the the job cheaper, what kind and how much well casing, the total depth, are they using the correct size drop pipe for the particular pump gpm and depth, are they using a 2 wire pump or a 3 wire pump, are they using a properly sized pressure tank for the hp and gallon per minute of the pump output. There are more factors to consider but those are the main ones. There's a lot of instances where the contractor will use too small of a tank when there's no one to enforce it to cheapen it up just to get the job from a contractor that may be higher but is going to do the job right
I saw a well-drilling video recently where the drillers failed to find water on the first go. How do you know where to drill in order to find a good water source, divining/dowsing rods or more modern electronic means?
I have found nothing that can reliably tell me if we are going to hit water. There are many people that will tell you they can tell before I drill. But, none have ever proven to be more reliable than the average of drilling without them.
That’s crazy deep!! I didn’t know the wells in that area of the state were that deep
Our average depth is over 600'. Many wells range from 1000' to 1600' or more. Very deep wells in our area.
Do you use any kind of sand/gravel filter in your production zone? Could you explain when, if you do? Thank you for the videos!
Yes we do occasionally. Watch this. ua-cam.com/video/fnQsf2znLOw/v-deo.html
What equation did you use to determine the recharge rate on the site an like sites using DHD with out tripping out and using a pump?
Thank you for making such a good video.
Good vid mate, well done!
We actually use bentonite and cement. We use bentonite to seal the packer and then cement to hold the casing in place. We make sure we have at least 20' of cement.
Well done, I've always wondered what was entailed in drilling a water well
There is no fool proof way to estimate flow, especially when drilling with a hammer. We use pressure tests when we can. We also simply estimate the flow based on the production we see at the surface. But, we are never sure until we set a pump and perform a true draw-down test.
I like a company that does a little more to insure there are no problems in the future - GGO JOB GUYS
How is the pvc connected, threads, glue, or compression fittings?
Most pvc casing that we use is joined by a plastic tab and O-ring. Look up Certalok Casing
well articulated video. Thanks to Bee Cave. Am planning to start up a drilling company at my home in Nigeria, West Africa but I dont know a good drilling machine to purchase. Though i like this one you used in this video. How much do you think i can get it and where can I get it. Please help me with a suggestion. Thanks once again
The rig you see in the video was manufactured by GEFCO, also known as Speedstar. The one in the video is a model 30K-DH. They are (in my opinion) the best rigs for the type of drilling that I do. But, there are many good options out there. I know that they ship rigs all over the world. The rigs from India are usually much cheaper, but I have some questions about safety. Never run one of those so i don't know. Good luck.
@@jimblair1 in which country are you drilling...please reply me..
@@vasanth9624 We are in The United States of America in the Republic of Texas, the greatest place on Earth. Proud to be an American and a Texan.
@@jimblair1 London is better. God save the queen.
Great video.
do you use air for the whole drilling process?
We use air the whole time we are drilling. We also can inject water and foam into the air stream.
@Nathan Hamilton We air drill about 95% of the wells that we drill. But when we need to mud drill, we have two rigs equipped with mud pumps to mud drill. We also use a Mud Puppy to clean the mud and dump the crud.
First video that told me what the part after the bit is and what it’s purpose, the stabilizer
Who did you get to sing that jingle at the beginning of your video?
We hired a company to create a TV advertisement for us about 10 years ago. They created the song. Kind of catchy huh? We love it. I don't remember the name of the company.
Should re use the water have some kind of shakers to take cuttings out and re pump the water. Not familiar with water well drilling but got a lot of experience in oil well drilling.
Also when you run that packing seal on the casing that’s gonna drag a lot of shit down to the production water since it’s bigger than the hole diameter, guessing when you instal a water pump it filters it tho.
how do you prevent cave ins before the PVC casing is installed?
In most of our wells, we are drilling in solid limestone that will not collapse. But occasionally we encounter loose soils that need to be held back. We do that in several ways from surface casing, mud drillling, cementing off the zone and redrilling, etc. Basically, we do what we feel is best for the site conditions.
@@jimblair1 thank you! I learned a lot from this video.
@B Mo to keep the hole open in loose formation all thats needed is to keep the hole filled with fluid until its cased
@@jamescambell1386 I actually got a practical answer to my question last week. A friend of mine was drilling a well in SW Washington and the driller hit loose shale around 400 feet. Unfortunately it didnt get any better and the recommendation from the driller was to try to drive well casing through the shale until they were out of it, or drill in another spot.
The problem with shale is water. I was main driller at lackey 13 years and when you drill through it and past it it begins to hydrate which makes it swell then crumble of the annulus(falling in) we drill reverse rotary and all we could do is make the fluid thick as possible so the shale doesnt hydrate as fast. Depending on the rate of it fallin in we would drill past TD anywere between 10 and 50 ft then pull our drill pipe out and case it gravel it as fast as we could. Always worked good. Shale fallin in wont stick your pipe like sand will. I remember a time we drilled a 1000’ 28”hole and the day shift started runnin the casing(16” .312 steel) and 500’ into it the elevator latch caught the other set of blocks and dropped it down the hole. We made a fish tool and got it out. But over the week it sat down there it had got almost completely covered by shale. Luckily by the time we were ready to fish we tagged the shale fill at 600’ so thats like 300’ of shale our casing was burried in and it pulled out easily
What is the cost of such a well? Very interesting.
The cost for a well like this is around $8,000 plus the pumping equipment.
What does pumping equipment entail?
which country is this??
Can some make a video dat shows the best place to start drilling
which country is this??
@@vasanth9624 trinidad
Like your style, good job.
how does pipe that your swinging up into rack flip horizintal like that ?
There is a slide built into the side of the pipe rack that allows the pipe to slide down and fall into the pipe rack. You can see it in action at 7:05
the guy puts it in the track which is slightly down hill, then the driller has a lever that lowers the winch holding the top of the rod, bringing it down, and since the other end of rod is in the track going down hill into there designated rod section on truck.
Great machine
What do you do if it still smells like sulfur?
The most common way we deal with sulfur gas is to add a storage tank system. You can see that here. ua-cam.com/video/fTJrRpVkiTI/v-deo.html
Start at 2:38 to see the discussion on sulfur gas.
Nice video... hello guys how to apply in your company to work with you guys i am a Filipino Citizen...?
We are always looking for qualified employees. If you can get a work visa, let me know.
Me gusta la perforacion de pozos
Man I need a bee cave drilling in my area
thanks for the video.
we always drill the casing first until we hit >2 meters in solid bedrock. then cast the seal before starting the actual borehole. but im more used to granit than limestone
Yes, that is normal practice in Granite formations. We do that too sometimes. But most of our wells are in limestone with layers of clay and sandstone. Therefore, most of our wells are cased to total depth.
am so happy and much interested in the bole hole drilling in my home town uhunowere in Igbo eze south please your contact and your information is needed
Well done
How much for a resident one
The cost for a residential well can vary wildly depending upon the depth, size, and construction requirements in your area. We see most wells are between $10K and $50K but we need to know exactly where you are and what type of system you want before we can give you a price.
how did to find where to drill?
A team of Geo's do testing and surveying
Great vedio!
how much does this cost to do?
I wish you could come to Thailand to do that in my farms lol.
That sounds like a lot of fun, but i don't think you want to pay to get me and my equipment there. Hopefully, you can find someone there that can get you some water. May God bless you.
They just don’t know what they re doing like you are.
Why not gravel pack the well up to 50ft and cement from there?
Gravel packing is a great way to complete a well but you need a larger diameter hole to assure that the gravel gets in place. In wells that have a lot of clay or sand near the production zone, we do gravel pack them instead of using a shale trap. For simple limestone holes like this one, this is the lowest cost option that always works great.
Water rules!
Cool outfit. Nice job.
Nice rig but I can't for the life of me understand why you would cement in the casing you produce through. Here we cement in surface casing to bedrock then run our well casing to bottom. This way it can be pulled if well ever needs serviced as water comes in from formation over time can wash in sentiment and reduce the water production. By having the well casing pullable you can go in and clean out the well and set it back. If that happen here you screwed as everything is locked in cement.
We have a couple of local factors that lead to this type of installation. First of all, we don't have "bedrock" as you describe it. The majority of our hole is soft limestones and clays that we have to case off. The production zone is also limestone in most cases. When we install the casing, the soft limestones and clays will silt in and prevent us from ever pulling the casing later. In addition, we have multiple production zones as we go down that often are required to be restricted. In many cases, we have to cement the casing in place from the production zone back to the surface. So, for most of our areas, this type of installation works best. But, we do have some areas that have a hard granite type rock that allow for the type of installation that you mention. As you know, we always have to adjust our engineering to fit what we find when we punch that hole. Good luck to you out there and Keep it turnin' to the right!
@@jimblair1 that makes more sense as I spent years as a driller in the oilfields. So I am aware of how geology can change even across just a short distance. True I am not familiar with the geology in your area but in all the different limestone zones I have encountered it was anything but soft. But that is just how it is here in the mountains of WV. But I still don't understand why you couldn't set your outer casing in a soft formation with a open hole packer cement it in then drill on through target formation to place the production liner. This is a process we use to produce gas and oil from a very soft zone called Devonian Shale. The silting in of the production zone is the reason for need to be able to pull liner out to clean out and free up the production flow. Yes I have seen that silted in and makes it difficult to pull. But if it's really that soft one should be able to put a pull on it along with back flushing under some pressure and work it free. Something I have done many many times no matter oil, gas or water cleaning out to improve production over time is necessary.
@@kenjett2434 Certainly can't pull it if it is cemented in place. That is more common than not with the commingling issues and local restrictions. Yes, we could have 2 strings of casing down the hole. But that would greatly increase the cost of a well. For example, that well in the video is a 400' hole drilled to 6.75". In order to have 2 strings, we would have to drill a 12" hole, set 8" casing. Cement that in place to 360'. Then drill out the bottom and install the 4.5" casing. It will work great. But it will triple the cost of the well. All this so you can clean out the bottom of the well. Instead, we just jet the well out if it gets dirty. Check out my video about jetting and acidizing wells.
Yes, i know this is not the way it is done in WV. But it works great here in TX.
@@jimblair1 this is true I don't know about Texas including cost. I have noticed though in Texas and in some other states starting with 12inch more. I can't understand why such a big starting hole for a 500ft well? Seems 8 inch hole would do the job and allow a 6 1/2 surface string to be cemented then a cheaper PVC liner could be installed to bottom. That would add a small added cost during construction yes but what it could and would save later in cost of well cleaning would more than make up. Sounds like the process you described for restoring well flow is elaborate and expensive. When a traditional rig could come in pull the liner go in and stir up the more bail out the silt replace the liner and with a simple pump do a good flush and put the well back in production. I have worked in areas where having and surface water can be a issue during drilling. But in those cases we still only started with 10 inch and used drive pipe as we drilled down. Then pulled the drive pipe back for next hole to reuse. I understand how what you do works but it don't leave many options to come back later to make repairs of the well. It's better to keep some options available just my opinion.
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You don't show us how u set the packer
You can see more about the packer installation on this video. ua-cam.com/video/fnQsf2znLOw/v-deo.html
How deep is well
nice
Excellent it
Mizael eletrônica real paulista pe lingado nucanal valeu tamos juntos
this is an easier rig. look up ss40t rigs that's what I work on. big rigs 1200ft dowm
4:28 470' and you are getting 20, 25 gpm? WOW!!! that's nothing... so much work for so little water
That's gobs of water, Supa!! Remember - the gpm is the rate that's flowing into the well, the recharge. That 20 - 25 gpm is 24/7. My well is around 10 gpm & I've never run out of water! Here's why - once you hit water, your casing is acting as a semi-filled standpipe of hundreds or even { depending on your well depth } thousands of gallons of available water. If you exhausted it, then yes...you'd be down to 20 to 25 gpm….but that's probably not going to happen, unless you're filling a swimming pool...……...
If any one have Driller job in the company of Uk, Canada anywhere in europe please contact me.
How u kno were to drill
U just start drilling
Where you drill depends upon the formations you have in your area. Consult a local well company or expert for this information in your area.
no sound track.sad!
I am sorry that the sound didn't work for you. I assure you that there is a sound track. You might need to update the software on your computer. Not sure which you are using. Maybe Flash. Try it again.
Jim how deep can your rigs handle?
The deepest we have drilled is 1620'. Under the right conditions, we can drill up to 2000'
Wow, that is a good sized rig! Can you handle gas pockets etc for shallow oil drilling?
We only air drill. So, if we hit a gas pocket, we could not hold it back. Never hit gas and hope we never do.
I've been a water well driller in Australia for 30 years and never ever used PVC Casey it's never been successful you try and get your pump out in five years time and it's collapsed on it and the whole things a waste of time and waste of money steel casing stainless steel screens is the only way to go
I appreciate that what you use works great for you. But, you need to realize that there is not one product available that is best for all situations. For instance, the water in our area is very aggressive towards steel pipe. In some cases, the steel will rust through in less than 5 years. We offer steel, pvc, and fiberglass casing depending on the needs of the customer and the condition of the aquifer.
'casing'...….Casey was an engineer.
gimmeee wataaa
No clear