I had an e88 125i model and my brakes were very bad. Initially I changed both my front caliper and made no difference. I then change the brake fluid which made a difference but still not as good. Tomorrow I’m changing the disc and pads and hopefully this sorts my issue. Issue I had was the car will brake once I’ve pressed more than 50% of the brakes
Why do you re crack the nuts always the 1s I see people struggle on I watch yt videos & every1 skips past there Struggles or methods they have had to come up with to get them undone please show us start to finish genuine videos cause we all know you ain’t just undoing a disc brake Alan key bolt with a 10p alien key there heat seized the lot and I like to see different methods on different bolts ect that makes the video worth watching 100% watched you for years mate keep up what you do have good some great tips and tricks off you buddy an my comment ain’t no criticism far from it just I like to see peoples struggles and ways to get around the struggles easier
Great reminder video : A few tips Always keep a few brake disc retaining screws handy from Bmw they can easily round off. Don’t cross thread the guide bolts..! wash new discs with soapy water to remove oily layer on them from the manufacture.. or brake cleaner before install.. use silicone grease in the guide bolts and anti squeal around the pads.. a drill with a circular wire brush attachment really helps clean the hubs & callipers before installing the new discs.. copper grease is essential for the future changes .. good luck ✊🏼
really good video, man, congratulations for the initiative, I own myself a 2015 1 series and watching this type of video is very handy for me, cheers for that!
I am quite astonished the bolts on fixed part calipers at the rear were so loose because they should be torqued quite hard, like the one on the front. I would recommand to put copper grease also on the center of the break disc on the surface in contact with the wheel. Let mention as well the break discs change is the right time to do a wheel stud conversion ... as recommended by you in another video, then the disc retaining bolt becomes useless, and mounting or removing the wheels become easier.
You should think about the 135i/performance brake in the front. It makes a big difference and they feel great on the paddle. If you keep your eyes open you can pick up used ones pretty cheap got them for 500€ with discs...the big brake in the front from the E90 335d would also be an option if you can get the parts used...
Excactly done same job on last saturday in my 320D hole set in Brembo and also new Handbrake Shoes!!! Good Job.... I've spend 4.5 h on this. But was worh it.
Since those pads have a rubber backing plate, its not necessary to put copper grease on the back, however if its bare steel of course you should definitely add copper grease.
Thanks George. I was quoted £779 to do these on my 130.... seems a tad steep. Is this something an amateur can do at home ? I’ve priced up the parts and around £250 so maybe give it a go myself. Thanks in advance for the reply 👍🏼
What coating on the disks? You're suppose to clean then off with brake fluid cleaner prior to fitting or the grease will contaminate to pads. Did you do that?
hello I like your channel. Can you tell me if a wrong timing in the n46 can have higher oil consumption and smoke? Mechanik was changing timing chain , car is running but it's coming blue smoke sometimes when you accelerat is black
Awesome! Good job! Is there any effect on having the drill holes in the other direction (I.e. swapping sides)? My standard brakes are terrible; "floaty" as you described! I bought some A2Z and suffered juddering. They are awesome company and replaced, but juddering still happened. So refunded in the end, so now looking to get BMW performance. Mechanic couldn't find cause of the juddering when having those discs on :(
Hope this helps you i had juddering when i applied my brakes on my old E46 a few years back i could not for the life of me work out what it was even when posting in the forums and researching and replacing the brakes and discs, one day my drivers side shock absorber started to leak i changed both shocks and that completely got rid of the judder!
Johny P Funny enough, a few months later I had to replace my springs (one snapped). Hmmmm, that could well have been the cause of the issue. Thank you so much. Very helpful
Hi George if you was to pay for discs and pads for the 130i which would you choose? My front brake service light is on so need to do mine. I understand you are happy with these ones you have fitted but I think you said you got them free for advertising. If you was paying would you have gone for something else?
Hey George, i’m going to replace my front pads and rotors soon…should i do it along a break fluid change and proper bleeding? Or will it be good eitherways without changing the fluid? What’s your opinion on that? I’ve heard a lot of theories, not quite sure how to proceed 🤔
Hi George, I noticed that you are using your Torque wrench as breaker bar, and then relying on it to Torque up the Wheel bolts. I'd strongly advise you to invest in a decent 1/2" breaker bar to protect your Torque Wrench from being abused and hence drifting out of calibration. I used to work for a particularly strict F1 Team based in Woking............Who would've given me a good verbal kicking if I did what you just did... :-). Peace....
Would you recommend putting a thread lock compound on the break carrier bolts that go into the hub, or is torquing them to the right spec enough? I'm thinking of doing my disks and pads soon myself and I've read some arguments for and against doing it. Thanks.
@@GeorgeAusters yeah, I jsut replaced all mine all round pads and discs and sensors and I'm not really sure if brakes feel right not sure if I need to bleed them maybe and also the hand brake needs adjusting lol
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks I have a 2011 that I was looking at doing this for but 1. I am stateside. 2. I had a trip that came up sooner than expected and didnt have time to wait for ordered parts. But certainly on the list for my DIY in the future.
UPDATE: So I have been using these for a week now and they have fully bedded in.. I just want to say they are AMAZING! Completely tranformed the car.
ua-cam.com/video/lY3LfuTvPRM/v-deo.html George have you ever came across this problem? Any advice would be great 👍🏻
I had an e88 125i model and my brakes were very bad. Initially I changed both my front caliper and made no difference. I then change the brake fluid which made a difference but still not as good. Tomorrow I’m changing the disc and pads and hopefully this sorts my issue.
Issue I had was the car will brake once I’ve pressed more than 50% of the brakes
Why do you re crack the nuts always the 1s I see people struggle on I watch yt videos & every1 skips past there Struggles or methods they have had to come up with to get them undone please show us start to finish genuine videos cause we all know you ain’t just undoing a disc brake Alan key bolt with a 10p alien key there heat seized the lot and I like to see different methods on different bolts ect that makes the video worth watching 100% watched you for years mate keep up what you do have good some great tips and tricks off you buddy an my comment ain’t no criticism far from it just I like to see peoples struggles and ways to get around the struggles easier
That trick with the g clamp and the caliper is legendary
Great reminder video : A few tips
Always keep a few brake disc retaining screws handy from Bmw they can easily round off. Don’t cross thread the guide bolts..! wash new discs with soapy water to remove oily layer on them from the manufacture.. or brake cleaner before install.. use silicone grease in the guide bolts and anti squeal around the pads.. a drill with a circular wire brush attachment really helps clean the hubs & callipers before installing the new discs.. copper grease is essential for the future changes .. good luck ✊🏼
Thanks man!
His videos are so straight forward from start to finish gives me absolute confidence to work on my car just by simply learning from George 😊
Glad to help!
really good video, man, congratulations for the initiative, I own myself a 2015 1 series and watching this type of video is very handy for me, cheers for that!
There’s a drum release under the handbrake gaiter that should have also been released. It’s a cylinder on the spring that hooks back.
Man, your videos are totally awesome. Thanks a lot!
I am quite astonished the bolts on fixed part calipers at the rear were so loose because they should be torqued quite hard, like the one on the front.
I would recommand to put copper grease also on the center of the break disc on the surface in contact with the wheel.
Let mention as well the break discs change is the right time to do a wheel stud conversion ... as recommended by you in another video, then the disc retaining bolt becomes useless, and mounting or removing the wheels become easier.
what brake disc are you used? how good ar they in reducing the brake distance?
You should think about the 135i/performance brake in the front. It makes a big difference and they feel great on the paddle. If you keep your eyes open you can pick up used ones pretty cheap got them for 500€ with discs...the big brake in the front from the E90 335d would also be an option if you can get the parts used...
No need, especially not at the moment. These have completely transformed the car after bedding in👍🏻
Excactly done same job on last saturday in my 320D hole set in Brembo and also new Handbrake Shoes!!! Good Job.... I've spend 4.5 h on this. But was worh it.
Nice one buddy. Yeah sure is worth it when done!
How satisfied you are with the Brembo brake discs?
Just found out my disk are E88 and yes they fit but the caliper bracket won’t go on so now Iv got to send them back. What a job it’s been lol
Nightmare, I’ve had similar issues a few times
After changing , is computer systems ok ?
Awesome channel man, thanks for listing all the tools! Appreciated!
No problem man!
Since those pads have a rubber backing plate, its not necessary to put copper grease on the back, however if its bare steel of course you should definitely add copper grease.
I prefer using anti seize to copper grease on brake pads
Thanks George. I was quoted £779 to do these on my 130.... seems a tad steep. Is this something an amateur can do at home ? I’ve priced up the parts and around £250 so maybe give it a go myself. Thanks in advance for the reply 👍🏼
Definitely!
@@GeorgeAusters ok great and thanks for all you do, hope the full time UA-cam thing is a huge success for you 👊🏼
Iv had the same problem bmw don’t like you doing the work lol. I can’t get the disk off
Funny I swapped mine too as soon as you made this video
What coating on the disks? You're suppose to clean then off with brake fluid cleaner prior to fitting or the grease will contaminate to pads. Did you do that?
This is not a coating, this actual paint on the discs to prevent the centre and edges from rusting👍🏻
Apparently BMW say not to lube the guide pins, and what's with those rubber sleeves that come with new guide pins, nobody ever shows or mentions them.
Yes they do but they perform much better with grease on
hello I like your channel. Can you tell me if a wrong timing in the n46 can have higher oil consumption and smoke? Mechanik was changing timing chain , car is running but it's coming blue smoke sometimes when you accelerat is black
Awesome! Good job! Is there any effect on having the drill holes in the other direction (I.e. swapping sides)?
My standard brakes are terrible; "floaty" as you described! I bought some A2Z and suffered juddering. They are awesome company and replaced, but juddering still happened. So refunded in the end, so now looking to get BMW performance. Mechanic couldn't find cause of the juddering when having those discs on :(
Hope this helps you i had juddering when i applied my brakes on my old E46 a few years back i could not for the life of me work out what it was even when posting in the forums and researching and replacing the brakes and discs, one day my drivers side shock absorber started to leak i changed both shocks and that completely got rid of the judder!
Johny P Funny enough, a few months later I had to replace my springs (one snapped). Hmmmm, that could well have been the cause of the issue. Thank you so much. Very helpful
@@GervanKelly you're welcome
Great vid. Defo will use this as a guide to do my brakes
You’re welcome man
Perfect upgrading
Thanks man!
Hi 😃 👋 , i want to change my bmw e87 front disc but i dont know if the 300mm disc can fit ?
I’ve got an e87 autodoc said 300mm on the back and 292mm on the front so wish my luck as I just ordered a set of brake discs and pads for mine.
I was trying to find the the whole brake kit rotors, pads amd sensor for my 2006 e87 118i but i can't find it please some help on that. Thank you!
If you message them on ebay and tell them you came from my video then they'll be able to help you out with the best setup
@@GeorgeAusters thank man
I had same problem 7mm bolts just won’t move
Hi George thanks for the upload quality content again.
My pleasure!
Easy way to get the back disk off is back off the handbrake adjust bolt
Hi George if you was to pay for discs and pads for the 130i which would you choose?
My front brake service light is on so need to do mine.
I understand you are happy with these ones you have fitted but I think you said you got them free for advertising.
If you was paying would you have gone for something else?
I would buy these. Honestly these Textar pads are the best i've ever used. Will be buying them for my 760li.
@@GeorgeAusters thanks buddy
Your videos are great for AMSR :)
Hahaha whatever helps you sleep bro
Hey George, i’m going to replace my front pads and rotors soon…should i do it along a break fluid change and proper bleeding? Or will it be good eitherways without changing the fluid? What’s your opinion on that? I’ve heard a lot of theories, not quite sure how to proceed 🤔
Worth doing a brake fluid flush every 2 years as part of normal maintenence
Do you need to change the wear sensor? Even if has not sent the wear signal?
Nope then not
Does anyone know what size G clamp this is?
Hi George, I noticed that you are using your Torque wrench as breaker bar, and then relying on it to Torque up the Wheel bolts.
I'd strongly advise you to invest in a decent 1/2" breaker bar to protect your Torque Wrench from being abused and hence drifting out of calibration.
I used to work for a particularly strict F1 Team based in Woking............Who would've given me a good verbal kicking if I did what you just did... :-).
Peace....
Yep could do with a breaker bar but this half inch torque wrench is around 50 years old and never let me down!
Yeah I get the point, its true, but a roadcar M12 or bigger bolt won’t give a damn if they are torqued 10 or 15 Nm more or less than original spec.
I wonder what cars next 🤔
Haha!
Would you recommend putting a thread lock compound on the break carrier bolts that go into the hub, or is torquing them to the right spec enough? I'm thinking of doing my disks and pads soon myself and I've read some arguments for and against doing it. Thanks.
Either is fine
Are they not strech bolts also as i think bmw says to change them ?
Textar come Oem on my F11 rear brakes.
That car has been driven!!!
Yep lol
Hi m8 what size are the discs ?
Best to check RealOem.Com mate
That's way too much grease. So much so your discs won't be aligned with the hub
Look up mtec performance brake discs too folks
I used them on my E60👍🏻
hi bro! what brand are the brake discs?
Kinectix bro!
Discs are facing in wrong direction .
They’re not
Just done my brakes, everything was seized. Never been more frustrated in my life, at least it's done though
Haha always good fun!
@@GeorgeAusters Had to pay a garage to get the discs off the hubs though XD
Never has an impact driver had less impact lol
Did you not need to bleed the brakes?
When just replacing the discs and pads?
@@GeorgeAusters yeah, I jsut replaced all mine all round pads and discs and sensors and I'm not really sure if brakes feel right not sure if I need to bleed them maybe and also the hand brake needs adjusting lol
@@topnelly Have you bedded them in yet?
@@GeorgeAusters not fully no
What year bmw is that?
2005
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks I have a 2011 that I was looking at doing this for but 1. I am stateside. 2. I had a trip that came up sooner than expected and didnt have time to wait for ordered parts. But certainly on the list for my DIY in the future.
Link won't work for parts m8
That link is for there store mate
@@GeorgeAusters yeah m8 won't load up 🙉
T'aurais pus repeindre tes étriers
👍🏼