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How to connect a smart doorbell to a M&S or Nutone intercom system.
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- Опубліковано 16 сер 2024
- In this video I will show a step by step process of connecting a smart doorbell to a M&S or Nutone intercom doorbell system typically found in homes build around the early 2000's. I will show you have to find the cover plate as well as how to convert the wiring over from DC voltage to AC.
#smartdoorbell #m&s #doorbellcam #diy
Cover Plate:
www.ebay.com/i...
0:00 Start
1:30 Finding the right cover plate for M&S Intercom System
2:05 Wiring the head unit for AC power
3:39 Opening up the head unit
7:30 Where to reroute the wires
11:16 Final power test
The video was perfect. My wife ordered a ring system and I had no idea how to connect it to our intercom. You made it simple and easy, and I didn't fry anything in the system. Thanks!
@jimtraum8720 awesome, thanks Jim for the kind words. Glad I could help.
If this video saved you time and/or money, please consider hitting that "Thanks" button right below the video.
This video was exactly what i needed! Did as you suggested and now my doorbell works as designed. You saved me a major headache with trying to trouble shoot this on my own.
Awesome! That is what I was hoping to do with this video.
I wished I had seen this video before I bought a solar panel for my ring door bell. this is the exact system i have in my house thank you for step by step information. it was not mentioned if it chimes when we press the door bell
Thank you. The original chime will no longer work since the chime circuit board runs off DC voltage, and the smart doorbells are all AC. We use an Amazon Echo to now do our chime and it works nice.
First video that explains this pefectly!! Thank you so much!!
Awesome, glad to hear.
Thank you for putting this video together! It was exactly the solution I needed to figure out how to power my doorbell.
Great to hear Nathan. Glad it worked.
Thanks for the easy to follow tutorial. This worked for me!
Awesome, that is great to hear! Thanks for letting me know.
Great video - well explained and easy to understand - thank you.
Thank you, Bob. I appreciate the compliment.
thank you for sharing, it will be used in my doorbell installation.
Glad I could help! :)
What a life saver thank you so much for this !
That's great to hear! Thanks
Thanks this worked for powering the Ring Pro doorbell but I was hoping it will ring the speakers/chime inside each room like it used to for M&S intercom.
I initially set out to do the same. My wife really liked the old chime. I think the deciding factor was that the old chime ran off DC voltage and the ring doorbell needed AC and it just wasn't compatible.
You are the man!! Thank you.
@@jasonlaban5277 welcome! :)
Great video and appreciate all the hard work you put into making this video. You mentioned the original chime will not work once the video doorbell is wired up. How do I get the chime to work then? I have a relative who needs their Nutone replaced with a Ring Doorbell that will get wired up. The house is very big, so the chime needs to be functional as well. Thank you again!
@vicdhillon7723 I use several echo dots, and they are programmed to chime with the ring doorbell. The original chime works off DC voltage and relies on the wires to touch briefly to cause the chime. You could just use two of the wires in that wire harness to run the ring doorbell (and connect it to the AC power as shown) and then just use the factory dc doorbell button affixed to the housing cover of the new doorbell. This would, of course, require somebody to press both doorbells. I think the first option I mentioned is best.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thank you and appreciate the quick response!
Great instructions! Made my day!
Awesome, I love hearing that.
Thanks for the informative video!
You are welcome.
Thank you... exactly was i was looking for :)
Awesome, that's great!
Thanks for the info. Trying tomorrow. Didn’t see another video or the outdoor install. I have 4 wires outside to connect to the ring doorbell and only 2 connections available. The outdoor wires had two connected to the button and two connected to the speaker. Old home and it’s all part of the intercom system. Have red, black, yellow, and green wires. Seems the yellow and green are the ones attached to the back panel inside the transformer box. Love to hear your suggestions
Hey Andrew, you only need two wires and can pick which ones you use. Essentially the ones that are currently connected to the indoor chime (at the head unit) will be the easiest to find but you can use any combo of the 4 as long as 2 are hooked to the doorbell and those same exact two are hooked to the AC power on the inside head unit (like the video shows). Hope this helps.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank you. I'll give that a try today.
Worked perfectly as described!!!❤
Awesome, that's great to hear. Thanks!
Thank you for this. I've got the exact same M&S unit. I did what you stated and have the correct voltage (AC) at the doorbell but I have not connected it yet. In the Ring manual for the Doorbell Gen 2, they state "If wiring directly to a doorbell transformer, connect a 25 ohm, 50W wirewound resistor in series with one of the doorbell wires to protect your Ring Doorbell." Do you think this is necessary for the M&S transformer?
@ohanmarkarian I think it would be an extra step to protect your doorbell but not necessary. If your doorbell does short out, though, then it could damage the transformer without this resister.
Thanks for the video! What do you think needs to be done to hook up the smart doorbell to the existing digital chime?
I think it would be possible to place a relay between the AC voltage source and the smart doorbell so that when the button is pressed, the signal that is produced closes a set of contacts that grounds out the comm pin and the ringer pin on the chime circuit board momentarily. You have to find what amount of voltage pulse was sent from the camera first in order to match it up with the correct size relay switch... which I believe is out of most people's abilities. I did t even care to do it myself as I have a smart ringer that detects the button push. Alternately, you could get a doorbell ringerfromm the store and gut it and place the insides in the interior panel box and feed the120 volts throughh it to the smart doorbell... this way it will ring a bell I side without the need for a digital/smart ringer.
God send!!!
Glad it was help! :)
Thanks for the very detailed video. I have been trying to find a suitable video for over 4 years now and this is the first one that describes that process in a simple manner.
Quick question: I have the M&S system wherein the sticker in the transformer shows the following:
24VAC, 40VA, PINS 1-3
CT PIN2
GROUND PIN 5
When I connect the two wires to PINS 1 and 3, it gives 48 VAC. Alternatively, if I connect PINS 1 and 2, I get 24 VAC. Should I connect PINS 1 and 2 in my case for the Ring Doorbell to work?
Yes, use the 24VAC....I believe 24-26 volts is the threshold for most of these smaller doorbells, so the other option would be too much.
Hi, I was looking into this and it seems like you might need a resistor or something in line with the transformer to keep the transformer from shorting when the ring video doorbell is pressed. Not 100% sure but i believe when the button is pressed it momentarily shorts across its leads to activate an existing doorbell chime. In this case there is none. Rings website suggests using a resistor or power kit in bypass mode when directly connecting to transformer power. Thoughts?
Also there is an example on rings blog of using a normally open relay in series that will close when pressing the ring button to activate the old chime. FYI
On this intercom system, the whole thing runs off DC voltage, and nearly all the smart doorbells run off AC voltage. The 4 wires that run from the head unit to the existing doorbell setup are 2 DC wires for the chime and then 2 speaker wires. The chime cirrcuit board itself in the head unit is actually the only part that is DC. I found that the rest of the headunit runs off low voltage AC. This is how I was able to "steal" power from another part and use it for the smart cameras.
I guess my initial comment was meant to verify that you don't damage your m&s system transformer by powering a ring doorbell directly without a resistor in series. Depending on the model of the ring doorbell it may act as a dead short when the button on the ring doorbell is pressed, regardless if the old chime is used or not. Might just want to verify if all models of the ring doorbell should be directly connected to the transformer at the intercom master head unit. Want to make sure no electrical hazards are created.
@@user-ol4ud6vp3b Only 1st and 2nd gen onbes require a 25Ohm wire wound resistor when connected directly to the transformer. The gen 3 or later versions has app based advance setting that by default do not create a short circuit when button is pressed and there is no chime in the circuit loop (only transformer), that is the setup of this video.
Any way convert the whole system to ac, so I can use ac power for door bell and smart speaker wall mount for each room ?
Yea, you could connect all the wires that go to each room the way it is set up in this video. May take some creativity with the connection, and I suppose it would drop some amps with the extra resistance. If you need higher volts you could use the AC transformer that's buried in the wall but you'd need larger wires ran to the rooms capable of handling the higher voltage. It really depends on what you need.
Unfortunately my intercom system connects from head unit to all room intercom devices with a RJ45 Ethernet cable. Hoped to find instructions on how to achieve the same result.
Ethernet carries power but I am unsure how much and if it's DC or AC (assuming DC). If you have a multimeter you could check... should be 5 to 6 wires in there.
Thanks for the video. I had power for the first couple of hours and then the ring no longer had power. Any advice?
Check the pins that you selected from the head unit harness and make sure they have the correct voltage. I noticed the first set of pins I used had fluctuating voltage so I had to choose another set. Also check that all connections are secure.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thanks, I'll give that a shot and check back! So it doesn't have to be the two pins that you used? Did you used the provided transformer at all?
Where does the pro power kit v2 get wired to?
You only need those power kits if you don't have this setup in the video to power it. If you follow the tutorial here than you can just use the existing wires from the old intercom system and won't use the power kit at all.
Great video. Are you connecting the intercom systems chime so it rings when new video doorbell is pressed? I am connecting an Arlo power kit to my M&S intercom system and want the intercom chime to ring (as it formerly chimed) when the new video doorbell is pressed.
Unfortunately that's not possible with this method. I wanted to maintain our chime as well because my wife really liked it, but it's not an easy task at all. Connection to any of the old chime wires with this new setup only causes it to ring constantly.
@@JackofAllTrades1Thanks. I will quit down that path then. I also bought an Echo Show 8 for video display. Looks like I can add a skill to make it chime (after wiring the camera)
@ElsieWahlig yep, that's what we did. We programmed it to ding.... and also say "is anybody gonna get the door" . :)
@@JackofAllTrades1 It maybe possible with a diode and a resistor that is sized right so above certain current draw of the AC circuit the DC chime is activated. Note that rign gen 3 has internal diode that can be activated when configured that you have a digital chime, so external diode is not needed
@Mobius_Pizza thanks for providing that info.
What not just jump from the 3 & 5 pin to the existing chime common and the chime should work off the ring?
Not just the common, but the ringer pin also.
I tried it and the bell rings continuously. I think you may be able to get away with doing that and having a solenoid in between so thats its just a brief connection but it can't be continuous.
Did you try just the common?
@@deweyharding3814 yes. Used several combinations in hope that it would work without having to take the route that I eventually did.
if you use one wire instead of both can you make it a loop so the doorbell chimes the ringer?
Any mounts available for the tektone brand intercom? screws are 3 1/4" apart
Hello Kurt. Check out kyleswitchplates.com they mention TekTone in their selection. You might have to email them and see what they have because looking through their selection available, I do not see one. I also checked ebay and found nothing. You may have to buy a blank cover plate that is the right size and drill your own holes.
@@JackofAllTrades1 THANK YOU! Assuming it's safe to drywall over intercom control after wiring?
@Kurt Schade, in general, for electrical connections to pass code inspection, there has to be a way to access them. I do believe the big box stores sell a special connection device that can be hidden in a wall without access. On the other hand, I don't think an inspector would go out of their way to locate where your doorbell transformer is wired up at. Good luck!
Ok so I found my yellow and orange wire. I have an M&S intercom system. What now? Do those 2 wires power my new ring 2 pro?
Ok so if it’s powered how will I hear doorbell if the existing chime is unused now?
You could get a smart chime. For example, my Amazon echo will chime for my doorbell if I set up a routine for it to. You could also wire in an actual doorbell using the power from the intercom transformer and those orange and yellow wires. The reason you can't use your existing chime is because it's a speaker run off DC voltage in your head unit and your Ring 2 pro requires AC voltage to work.
Thanks for your help.
I used the red and black wire from the outdoor doorbell speaker and connected those to the 16 volt pins because the weren’t connected to anything in the intercom system instead of the orange and yellow. Is that ok?
Do I just connect those to my ring camera now? They are reading 17.5 volts outside now.
@@b717 you can use any of those wires to provide power... make sure it's AC volts and not DC volts.
@@b717 honestly if you can mount your ring in a way that it sits above the existing button on the outdoor plate. You could power your ring and maintain the current doorbell. You just have to make sure the rd and black wires get AC voltage and hook them to the ring.
Ok cool, it is powered now.
So in order to use the old chime and the existing doorbell button, wouldn’t people have to press both buttons? Or is ring activated by motion?
I just got this and have no idea how it even works yet.
Worked for about a week and now remains in an offline state. I’m able to reset it and it will reconnect sometimes momentarily… Not sure why the doorbell will seem to be powered on but not connect. Has to be a power issue, right?
I called ring and they tried to sell me a transformer
Will it connect to the wifi? I actually have the same issue with mine right now. I switched from a Blink doorbell to a Eeufy last week and I suspect that I grounded out the two wires by accident and overloaded the transformer. If you are handy at all, I will tell you how to check it. I may make a new video on this issue.
@@JackofAllTrades1 it’s very strange…when I reset it it will start providing motion notifications but when you go to select the camera it will state it’s offline and recommend I need to purchase a WiFi extender which isn’t the problem. I have multiple ring floodlights around the house alongside of the ring base station security system etc and they all connect to WiFi no issue.
Curious if you have a workaround. Otherwise I guess it’s time to opt for a battery version :(
@blakejohnsoncsr I suspect your transformer in your head unit is likely shot. You can turn your breaker for it off and pull it out and see if the two fuses are blown... they are located in the plastic housings on either side of the transformer. A simple doorbell transformer from Lowes, ($20) would replace it if needed and can run the doorbell.
Have you put a multimeter up to the leads to see if you are getting enough power? Usually has to be at least 16 volts AC.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thanks a lot for the info! I’ll let you know how it goes. 🙏🏻
If there isnt a schematic for ac power how can i figure out
If you have a multi meter, then you could test the voltage coming out of the harness, test different wires. If you don't then pick a red and black wire and use them. The voltage is really low so if the two wires you pick don't work, then try two other wires. It's best to have a multimeter though... they are useful for a lot of other projects. Thanks for commenting.
If i wanted to rid of intercom system could i do so n still have power for ring ? Or would it still have to be connected to intercom face plate ?
@Mauria Pombo you could remove that whole head unit facing and just leave that transformer in there to power the wires. Like remove the facing and drywall over it. You would just need to leave an access cover to the transformer for it to pass code.
Ty!! You have finally answered the questions to solve what i am wanting to do! Made my day:)
@Mauria Pombo awesome man, I'm glad I could help. It makes my day knowing I can help others. Please consider subscribing, it helps the channel reach others.