That bolt at the rear of the pump under the side door is actually where the overflow bolt and pipe mount. The pipe can be left to drain into a bottle. This is the easiest way to know if/when your pump plungers are worn and bypassing fuel into the cambox of the pump. The plungers do have a groove in them to take sum fuel that passes but it normally goes into the cambox. I rebuild these pumps as a living and I see more arrive with pure diesel in them than oil most times. The biggest problem you get from low or no oil is camshaft endloat and this leads to the engines hunting and possibly not achieving max rpm. Worst Ive ever seen was full to the filler plug with diesel. Couldve been caught a lot earlier if it had the telltale pipe. Best washers for the drain and level plug are the Dowty hydraulic style washer. Copper is next. Dont waste time with Alloy ones. If you do strip a bolt its an easy job to tap out to 1/8th BSP or NPT and use right size plug.
@matui6983 Thanks. Recently purchased an old tractor that is fitted with a minimec pump. Decided to check / change pump oil. Went to drain it and had little / no oil in it. Refilled with fresh engine oil . Took side plate off pump and plungers, rack all look OK. Tractor starts instantly, and runs excellent. I'm just worried about potential damage to the pump that has occurred through lack of lubrication? My thoughts are to run the tractor for a bit and then drain the pump oil again and see what condition the oil is in? Are spaew parts still readily available for these pumps?? Appreciate any advice you can give me.
@@AD-lx3bt hi. Did you watch the rack/control- rod while its idling? If its bouncing around then its a sign the governor mass/weights are worn orvtheres too much endfloat in camshaft. This should cause hunting at idle. If theres just a flicker or no movement all is good. Def run clean oil in the cambox for a few hours, drain it and check oil for any metal. If gov weight blocks arecwirn you will see bronze dust. When you took the door off was it clean or rusty inside? The oil seal in the front of the pump could be rock hard letting oil escape into the engine or onto the ground deoending on which Minimec you have. Sum are shaft driven and sum are gear driven. Only use 15-40 oil. Can use straight SAE 30 but can make governor sluggish when cold. Make sure pump can breathe too. I will normally drill a tiny hole in oil filler plug if the side cover doesnt have a wire gauze breather fitted. When you change the oil look to see if theres diesel mixed in. Not the best sign but unless thers a lot dont stress.
@@AD-lx3bt can still get pretty much any parts required for the Minimec units. Best parts come from Italy by a company called Spaco, otherwise its parts from the UK.
Nice vid. You are lucky you have such room to work :) My pump makes 2 extra ounces every 10 hours. I guess its time for a rebuild. Been changing oil every 10 hours for 2 seasons because of it. This winter is the year. I had to wait because last year was the exhaust manifold at $2500 shipped. These engines don't need much but when they do...its $$$ssssss
Thanks. I haven't tried rebuilding an injection pump yet, but I will certainly try doing that myself before paying the big bucks. I have been lucky with these two engines so far, performing all the maintenance myself and being able to machine, weld, and fabricate my way out of any issues, so far. If there's anything else I could try to help with, let me know.
Hello Nice job done, i have same engine on my harvest combine New Holland, can you tell me what type of oil you use for engine, for the injection pump, and what type of fuel its best for this engine, thank you !
Thanks. I run Shell straight grade 30 weight oil in both engine and injector pump, some people use 15w-40 oil. Fuel, clean diesel fuel is what they are designed to run on, make sure the filters are good so the fuel pump and injectors don't wear out pre maturely. I have the service manuals to reference if you have any other questions.
@@keithgribble5766 Yes, I believe there is a button that gets pressed, opposite of the throttle lever, that would be for "cold start", I have not tried it yet, the coldest I've had to start them was around 40 degrees F.
My belief is straight weight oil is good, considering the 15w-40 would not get warm enough. My engines and fuel pumps get straight 30. They don't get the oil hot enough to activate the multigrade.. What do you think?
Great video, thanks
Thank you
That bolt at the rear of the pump under the side door is actually where the overflow bolt and pipe mount. The pipe can be left to drain into a bottle. This is the easiest way to know if/when your pump plungers are worn and bypassing fuel into the cambox of the pump. The plungers do have a groove in them to take sum fuel that passes but it normally goes into the cambox. I rebuild these pumps as a living and I see more arrive with pure diesel in them than oil most times. The biggest problem you get from low or no oil is camshaft endloat and this leads to the engines hunting and possibly not achieving max rpm. Worst Ive ever seen was full to the filler plug with diesel. Couldve been caught a lot earlier if it had the telltale pipe. Best washers for the drain and level plug are the Dowty hydraulic style washer. Copper is next. Dont waste time with Alloy ones. If you do strip a bolt its an easy job to tap out to 1/8th BSP or NPT and use right size plug.
Do you mind if I pm you a couple of questions regarding the minimec pump on my tractor??
@@AD-lx3bt Go for your life. Ask away.
@matui6983 Thanks. Recently purchased an old tractor that is fitted with a minimec pump.
Decided to check / change pump oil. Went to drain it and had little / no oil in it. Refilled with fresh engine oil . Took side plate off pump and plungers, rack all look OK.
Tractor starts instantly, and runs excellent.
I'm just worried about potential damage to the pump that has occurred through lack of lubrication?
My thoughts are to run the tractor for a bit and then drain the pump oil again and see what condition the oil is in?
Are spaew parts still readily available for these pumps??
Appreciate any advice you can give me.
@@AD-lx3bt hi. Did you watch the rack/control- rod while its idling? If its bouncing around then its a sign the governor mass/weights are worn orvtheres too much endfloat in camshaft. This should cause hunting at idle. If theres just a flicker or no movement all is good. Def run clean oil in the cambox for a few hours, drain it and check oil for any metal. If gov weight blocks arecwirn you will see bronze dust. When you took the door off was it clean or rusty inside? The oil seal in the front of the pump could be rock hard letting oil escape into the engine or onto the ground deoending on which Minimec you have. Sum are shaft driven and sum are gear driven. Only use 15-40 oil. Can use straight SAE 30 but can make governor sluggish when cold. Make sure pump can breathe too. I will normally drill a tiny hole in oil filler plug if the side cover doesnt have a wire gauze breather fitted. When you change the oil look to see if theres diesel mixed in. Not the best sign but unless thers a lot dont stress.
@@AD-lx3bt can still get pretty much any parts required for the Minimec units. Best parts come from Italy by a company called Spaco, otherwise its parts from the UK.
Nice vid. You are lucky you have such room to work :) My pump makes 2 extra ounces every 10 hours. I guess its time for a rebuild. Been changing oil every 10 hours for 2 seasons because of it. This winter is the year. I had to wait because last year was the exhaust manifold at $2500 shipped. These engines don't need much but when they do...its $$$ssssss
Thanks. I haven't tried rebuilding an injection pump yet, but I will certainly try doing that myself before paying the big bucks. I have been lucky with these two engines so far, performing all the maintenance myself and being able to machine, weld, and fabricate my way out of any issues, so far. If there's anything else I could try to help with, let me know.
Bizim Clayson 1530 1977 model biçerdöver de 2713 e bosch pompa var çok güzel
do you know that bosch pump from 2713e engine can be installed on 2715e instead of simms?
I have same engine in my harvester bhut its pressure become low its was was on 80 digree #engine pressur is 2.5
Hello
Nice job done, i have same engine on my harvest combine New Holland, can you tell me what type of oil you use for engine, for the injection pump, and what type of fuel its best for this engine, thank you !
Thanks. I run Shell straight grade 30 weight oil in both engine and injector pump, some people use 15w-40 oil. Fuel, clean diesel fuel is what they are designed to run on, make sure the filters are good so the fuel pump and injectors don't wear out pre maturely. I have the service manuals to reference if you have any other questions.
@@keithstone9724 thanks bro, it is possible for you to send me the service manual on gmail ?!
My gmail fation.123ziberi@gmail.com
I have them in book version, if you search the web there are a few sites with the information available free. "2700 Series manual"
@@keithstone9724 hi bud does that pump have a cold start ?
@@keithgribble5766 Yes, I believe there is a button that gets pressed, opposite of the throttle lever, that would be for "cold start", I have not tried it yet, the coldest I've had to start them was around 40 degrees F.
What type of oil does injection pump use 30w or 15/40
My belief is straight weight oil is good, considering the 15w-40 would not get warm enough. My engines and fuel pumps get straight 30. They don't get the oil hot enough to activate the multigrade.. What do you think?
Hey Keith where u stoned when u did that?
Hey JOEY, thank you for your interest. Were you born stupid or did you need to practice your whole life to be so dumb?
@@keithstone9724 takes a lot of work and practice thank you for recognizing I'm glad someone appreciates it
Thanks legend