As a 6y Palfinger service tecnicion i mounted over 50 cranes on top of Sprinter chassis all the way up to 5 axel big rigs and i gotta say without a doubt i'm surprised how good its mounted.
Nice job on the crane, i used to run one when i was around 13, my dad drove a truck and when we delivered motor cycles he had a 40ft trailer with a Donkey engine and a mid mounted crane. I was climbing the load and slinging the loads while my dad run the crane, sometimes he would sling and I could use the crane. Beats going to school but rope and sheeting a load in the rain was not fun. Cheers
Great job love this. I recently built a 6000lb single axle utility trailer and installed a winch style service body crane to it. I never knew I needed one until I finished it and used it many times in the first month. Lifted a 6x8 shed, Precast concrete steps and a few motors. I added a trailer jack in the corner for an outrigger. The crane will reach both sides of trailer and even set stuff in the box of my truck. Love it.
Nice. That sounds really handy. I thought about mounting this crane on a trailer. But I mostly. Red it for pulling engines and it’s nice to be able to get it in the shop next to a truck.
Im a truck upfitter, mainly on semi trucks, which means bigger cranes. regardless of mounting method, its always 1" all thread. Unless its a heavy duty winch for fracking we may go to 1.5" rods strictly because of the power those winches are capable of
Yes! I have actually mostly seen these cranes this size mounted with 3/4 or 7/8 all thread but it barely costs more to use 1 inch so I chose that. Best to not have to worry about them.
All my friends pass around pictures of dream cars.. I get way more excited about badass built service trucks. I have build a few Cummins swapped F350s and I just put a small crane on my current 04F350 work truck and It makes me so much more excited than any of the play cars my friends talk about.
You dont have one without the other so it isnt more right or wrong to pick one or the other to talk about. Also theres plenty of pumps that are designed for pressure not flow, and plenty for flow not pressure. For example a double diaphragm pump tries to increase velocity regardless of pressure, but a positive displacement pump tries to increase pressure regardless of velocity (enough that theyll blow something up if you dont have overpressure protection). If you ask bernoulli, pressure, flow, gravity, temperature, its all just different forms of energy in a fluid stream and you can freely trade one for the other however you like. Whether you say you lost pressure and gained flow, or gained flow so you lost pressure, its the same thing. For all the physics cares one doesnt cause the other they happen simultaneously. For example you might say "open the outlet and ill show you it can make flow without pressure" to which id respond "plug the outlet and ill show you it can make pressure without flow" 🤷♂️
@@JD-ub5ic that is completely incorrect. No hydraulics company will confuse or interchange the two. It’s analogous to confusing amperage and voltage. You can have flow without pressure, and you can have stored pressure without constant flow. They are two separate and different things. It matters very much if you design or repair these systems especially when it comes time to troubleshoot. I very courteously gave him some feedback. Some people are incapable of receiving any criticism, whether it’s positive or negative, and they remain ignorant their whole lives. If you choose to hold on to your pride and remain ignorant that’s on you.
My uncle did the same thing he bent his whole truck out of shape and ended up selling the truck as scrap ,you need to make sure you strengthen the frame before doing something like this
That mounting is pretty common for the size and application, but you gotta make sure the rods are the right type. Crane mounting rods are not your common all thread, they are normally high grade and fine pitch. Under the frame the factory mounting kits usually come with cast iron blocks, crane mounting shops probably have them laying around because they dont use them on many mountings.
A dream truck I would love to have. Maybe instead of zip ties to instead use stainless hose clamps for your hose retention underneath. Just need an air compressor with auto start.
Much handier to make a handle for your outrigger pads. We use old fire hose cut up into eight or ten inches in length then nailed to the edge of the pad. Don't have to dig in the mud to retrieve them then. The hose is stiff enough to stand up, especially if you use exterior canvas over rubber ones. Inch and a half ones are perfect and two inch will do as well. Check with your local fire hall as they scrap out the old hoses that fail the yearly pressure tests. They generally reuse the brass ends so the hose is perfect to cut up.
This is great advice. I use old 2 inch load straps for handles on blocking and chocks. I haven't put any one these ones yet because i just got done treating the wood with resin to keep it from soaking up water. I appreciate the advice.
@@STROKER-GARAGE Cool idea w\ the epoxy. Was wondering how that OSB was holding up so well? If you want the best pads for cheap, go dumpster diving at a building site. I dig out the nice cutoffs from the LVL's, that stuff is really strong. Builders normally always over-order the lengths so there's always a bunch of cut-offs in the pile and because it's glued together most won't burn it so it stays garbage. I grabbed like half a dozen 4' x 14" pieces from site near me. Nice to have strong (free) engineered lumber pieces around on hand! 🤔😄👍🏻🛠️🔩🔧🦺🪓 ✊🏻🦅🇺🇲
Man, I've been thinking about something like this for a while to run mortar and brick/block pallets to work sites when lifts are not on site yet, with a little trailer behind too. Love your build, hope I get to do something similar soon!
Great advice. The stabilizers lift the wheels right off the ground so I don’t think it will roll. But I will take your advice because chocks are always a must have!!
I used to work at a tree place that had 3 different grapple trucks built by 3 different builders. All were mounted the same way. 1 even have more rod added because the wood between the box and the frame kept wiggling out.
That mounting system is one situation where you definitely want the fasteners torqued right. If lifting something bent the mounting plate, but torqueing the bolt didnt, that means there wasnt enough preload on the bolt to take the forces youd expect from the crane. Ideally the bolted connection would have enough preload to take whatever force you throw at it without increasing the tension thats already in the joint. Additionally, Looking at it I woulda thought the top plates would be welded or somehow fixed/cantilevered to reduce bending, the way they are the edges are free to rotate which means the plate is free to bend. That means you need a much thicker plate to get the same stiffness.
I see what you are saying but the truth is the top plates are really just acting as washers and I don’t want to weld to the crane if I don’t have to. And if I over torque that 1 inch rod i will just crush my frame rail. Ideally the stabilizers should always be firmly down so there is never much load on the mounting hardware and all the force is pushing down on the stabilizers.
@@STROKER-GARAGE @STROKER-GARAGE I'm a nerd and I think joint design is really interesting so forgive this wall of text 😅. I think that's why people don't like it, if the force to torque the rods would crush your frame rails, theoretically the forces generated in the crane is enough to damage them as well. In my opinion the problem isn't how it's attached to the crane, you can get away with those plates as washers if they're thick enough, it's more about how it's attached to the truck frame. I agree that the majority of the force would be in the outriggers when lifting from the side, but since you only have 2 outriggers there will certainly be some bending force running along the frame front to back when you pick things from the front or back of the truck, or when you try and set things on the bed. It looks like the current joint concentrates that bending force on the frame rail through a very short section front to back, only a couple inches. Don't let me dissuade you its your truck, if you think it's good enough and you aren't worried about the frame then that's fine. However if you're interested in beefing up the frame joint personally first I'd add some tube steel around the threaded rod to prevent crushing, and then torque those properly. I'd want minimum 150-200 ft lbs if those are coarse thread, 100-150 if they're fine thread. I'd also try and make the joint spread further along the frame rail so the crane doesn't want to just bend the frame around that singular point. Maybe sandwich the frame with two 12" long pieces of angle iron or plate top and bottom so that your joint is now a foot long instead of a couple inches long. You'd want to bolt the sandwiched steel in the front and back, and then run the threaded rod through it. If you're doing the tube around the rod, weld the tube to the plates. That'd seriously reduce the bending stress in the frame when picking stuff from the back, your joint would now be a foot long instead of a couple inches long and it would be much stiffer in bending and much easier on your frame, the stress wouldn't be concentrated on a single point. I have no doubt this truck frame is capable of taking the force, it's just a question of getting a stiff enough joint that you aren't concentrating the stress in too small an area for it. If you're interested in collaborating if you sent me some dimensions I could do a quick analysis and tell you approximately how strong your current setup would be versus the one I described. Of course if you're fine just leaving it as is I understand that too.
@@BuildSomethingAuto I like the ideas. I always appreciate the input. I found some similar build where they boxed in the frame on the clamping points. I went with this and boxed it in with 3/8 plate. I’d also like to better support the top with gussets so there is less twisting force on the frame. As I run into these concerns I have been making improvements.
Did you put the 3.73 gearing in yourself? I thought the dualies came with 4.10. I have a SRW 2003 F350 with 3.73 and a 99 F350 with 4.10. Genuinely curious if some came with 3.73. I love the torque of my dually, but it doesn't get much better than 15mpg even on the flat roads in AB. Zf6 too.
I did not regear the truck. It came as a factory option to have 3.73 gearing on a dually. My other srw f350s are the sterling 10.5 rear end with 3.73 where the dually is a Dana 90 with 3.73. Duallys always get worse mileage just how it is.
Did you try the high idle with E-brake on? Not 100% sure about the high idle control module but factory high idle(cold weather\evbp) will only kick in on my zf6 when the E-brake pedal is pushed down(dash light on). The ECM will only activate it when it sees the 'brake light' bulb come on in the instrument cluster. Did you change the ECM when you swapped out 4R100 for zf6? Anyways cool build man! I like the palfinger boom lift too!👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔩🔧🤔 ✊🏻🦅🇺🇲🦅✊🏻
Yes. The Ebrake is always on when it’s parked since it is a manual. Yes I switched to the manual ecm. Not sure about the high idle yet. Might need to wire the clutch pedal into something else. I’ll figure it out some day.
..I know you mentioned the ready rod in the video, and I even watched the whole video to see if you mentioned it.. but you're rip that crane right off there using ready rod. It's gonna stretch.. you need ubolts.
By the way, theres no indicator lights fitted. Only brake lights; thats not permitted under construction and use regulations in ANY country. You would end up being arrested for non compliance with that set up.
As a 6y Palfinger service tecnicion i mounted over 50 cranes on top of Sprinter chassis all the way up to 5 axel big rigs and i gotta say without a doubt i'm surprised how good its mounted.
Nice to see a fellow Palfinger tech on here👋🏻
Using the power seat as a high idle control>>>200 IQ. Nice setup >> Yep i need one now
It works really well.
Snow runner type beat
I have a collection of snow runners
He is running a 1 slot bed with it too!
@@loading...411it’s pretty short
Nice job on the crane, i used to run one when i was around 13, my dad drove a truck and when we delivered motor cycles he had a 40ft trailer with a Donkey engine and a mid mounted crane. I was climbing the load and slinging the loads while my dad run the crane, sometimes he would sling and I could use the crane. Beats going to school but rope and sheeting a load in the rain was not fun. Cheers
Great job love this. I recently built a 6000lb single axle utility trailer and installed a winch style service body crane to it. I never knew I needed one until I finished it and used it many times in the first month. Lifted a 6x8 shed, Precast concrete steps and a few motors. I added a trailer jack in the corner for an outrigger. The crane will reach both sides of trailer and even set stuff in the box of my truck. Love it.
Nice. That sounds really handy. I thought about mounting this crane on a trailer. But I mostly. Red it for pulling engines and it’s nice to be able to get it in the shop next to a truck.
Im a truck upfitter, mainly on semi trucks, which means bigger cranes. regardless of mounting method, its always 1" all thread. Unless its a heavy duty winch for fracking we may go to 1.5" rods strictly because of the power those winches are capable of
Yes! I have actually mostly seen these cranes this size mounted with 3/4 or 7/8 all thread but it barely costs more to use 1 inch so I chose that. Best to not have to worry about them.
All my friends pass around pictures of dream cars.. I get way more excited about badass built service trucks. I have build a few Cummins swapped F350s and I just put a small crane on my current 04F350 work truck and It makes me so much more excited than any of the play cars my friends talk about.
I agree. I like heavy equipment and useful things over shiny cars.
This is so cool! I can't believe you built this thing, super awesome!
Thanks! It was easier than I expected. I’ll be making more videos on the build.
@2:49 create all the “flow” that you need. Pumps create flow. Restriction to flow creates pressure. Nice project.
You dont have one without the other so it isnt more right or wrong to pick one or the other to talk about. Also theres plenty of pumps that are designed for pressure not flow, and plenty for flow not pressure. For example a double diaphragm pump tries to increase velocity regardless of pressure, but a positive displacement pump tries to increase pressure regardless of velocity (enough that theyll blow something up if you dont have overpressure protection).
If you ask bernoulli, pressure, flow, gravity, temperature, its all just different forms of energy in a fluid stream and you can freely trade one for the other however you like. Whether you say you lost pressure and gained flow, or gained flow so you lost pressure, its the same thing. For all the physics cares one doesnt cause the other they happen simultaneously.
For example you might say "open the outlet and ill show you it can make flow without pressure" to which id respond "plug the outlet and ill show you it can make pressure without flow" 🤷♂️
@@JD-ub5ic that is completely incorrect. No hydraulics company will confuse or interchange the two. It’s analogous to confusing amperage and voltage. You can have flow without pressure, and you can have stored pressure without constant flow. They are two separate and different things. It matters very much if you design or repair these systems especially when it comes time to troubleshoot. I very courteously gave him some feedback. Some people are incapable of receiving any criticism, whether it’s positive or negative, and they remain ignorant their whole lives. If you choose to hold on to your pride and remain ignorant that’s on you.
@@user-bt6hh9yu1n The pump does create flow not pressure. however, The pump is rated for more pressure than I need, the flow is plenty as well. thanks
That is a sweet rig.
Thank you
looks great, functions well can you fit a headache rack on it with a bit or modding? looks good either way!
yes I could fit one in there. I'm not sure if I will or not tho because I don't really need one.
You shouldnt have shown this to me. Now i think i need one.
Everyone needs one
I need one too....😃👍
Literally my dream set up. Nice truck
thank you. Im happy with it.
6y/o me is in heaven and by that I mean I am in heaven.
Me too. Gotta love big toys.
My uncle did the same thing he bent his whole truck out of shape and ended up selling the truck as scrap ,you need to make sure you strengthen the frame before doing something like this
Must've been a Dodge ram😂😅
this can happen when you lift without the outriggers
You have built essentially the same thing I’ve been building in my brain for years! It looks amazing! You did a great job!
Thank you. I’m happy with it.
That mounting is pretty common for the size and application, but you gotta make sure the rods are the right type. Crane mounting rods are not your common all thread, they are normally high grade and fine pitch. Under the frame the factory mounting kits usually come with cast iron blocks, crane mounting shops probably have them laying around because they dont use them on many mountings.
Awesome set up!!
@@timharris4874 thank you. It does what it should.
A dream truck I would love to have. Maybe instead of zip ties to instead use stainless hose clamps for your hose retention underneath. Just need an air compressor with auto start.
@@oby-1607 hose clamps will cut into the hoses with vibration and time. Zips ties are made for this. Don’t worry they are good quality ones.
Much handier to make a handle for your outrigger pads. We use old fire hose cut up into eight or ten inches in length then nailed to the edge of the pad. Don't have to dig in the mud to retrieve them then. The hose is stiff enough to stand up, especially if you use exterior canvas over rubber ones. Inch and a half ones are perfect and two inch will do as well. Check with your local fire hall as they scrap out the old hoses that fail the yearly pressure tests. They generally reuse the brass ends so the hose is perfect to cut up.
This is great advice. I use old 2 inch load straps for handles on blocking and chocks. I haven't put any one these ones yet because i just got done treating the wood with resin to keep it from soaking up water.
I appreciate the advice.
@@STROKER-GARAGE Cool idea w\ the epoxy. Was wondering how that OSB was holding up so well? If you want the best pads for cheap, go dumpster diving at a building site. I dig out the nice cutoffs from the LVL's, that stuff is really strong. Builders normally always over-order the lengths so there's always a bunch of cut-offs in the pile and because it's glued together most won't burn it so it stays garbage. I grabbed like half a dozen 4' x 14" pieces from site near me. Nice to have strong (free) engineered lumber pieces around on hand! 🤔😄👍🏻🛠️🔩🔧🦺🪓
✊🏻🦅🇺🇲
@@tdotw77 that’s smart. It’s not OSB, I used laminated plywood. The resin is to keep them from becoming terribly heavy from soaking up water.
Love the high idle
Thank you! I’ll be repairing the electric high idle once I figure it out.
Man, I've been thinking about something like this for a while to run mortar and brick/block pallets to work sites when lifts are not on site yet, with a little trailer behind too. Love your build, hope I get to do something similar soon!
Awesome setup mate
Glad you like it
Nice setup…you should get wheel chocks to prevent truck from moving while operating
Great advice. The stabilizers lift the wheels right off the ground so I don’t think it will roll. But I will take your advice because chocks are always a must have!!
cool rig
Thank you.
I used to work at a tree place that had 3 different grapple trucks built by 3 different builders. All were mounted the same way. 1 even have more rod added because the wood between the box and the frame kept wiggling out.
Yeah I have seen many mounted this same way from the manufacturer
So handy for those rebuilds lol
That mounting system is one situation where you definitely want the fasteners torqued right. If lifting something bent the mounting plate, but torqueing the bolt didnt, that means there wasnt enough preload on the bolt to take the forces youd expect from the crane. Ideally the bolted connection would have enough preload to take whatever force you throw at it without increasing the tension thats already in the joint.
Additionally, Looking at it I woulda thought the top plates would be welded or somehow fixed/cantilevered to reduce bending, the way they are the edges are free to rotate which means the plate is free to bend. That means you need a much thicker plate to get the same stiffness.
I see what you are saying but the truth is the top plates are really just acting as washers and I don’t want to weld to the crane if I don’t have to. And if I over torque that 1 inch rod i will just crush my frame rail. Ideally the stabilizers should always be firmly down so there is never much load on the mounting hardware and all the force is pushing down on the stabilizers.
@@STROKER-GARAGE @STROKER-GARAGE I'm a nerd and I think joint design is really interesting so forgive this wall of text 😅. I think that's why people don't like it, if the force to torque the rods would crush your frame rails, theoretically the forces generated in the crane is enough to damage them as well. In my opinion the problem isn't how it's attached to the crane, you can get away with those plates as washers if they're thick enough, it's more about how it's attached to the truck frame.
I agree that the majority of the force would be in the outriggers when lifting from the side, but since you only have 2 outriggers there will certainly be some bending force running along the frame front to back when you pick things from the front or back of the truck, or when you try and set things on the bed. It looks like the current joint concentrates that bending force on the frame rail through a very short section front to back, only a couple inches.
Don't let me dissuade you its your truck, if you think it's good enough and you aren't worried about the frame then that's fine.
However if you're interested in beefing up the frame joint personally first I'd add some tube steel around the threaded rod to prevent crushing, and then torque those properly. I'd want minimum 150-200 ft lbs if those are coarse thread, 100-150 if they're fine thread. I'd also try and make the joint spread further along the frame rail so the crane doesn't want to just bend the frame around that singular point. Maybe sandwich the frame with two 12" long pieces of angle iron or plate top and bottom so that your joint is now a foot long instead of a couple inches long. You'd want to bolt the sandwiched steel in the front and back, and then run the threaded rod through it. If you're doing the tube around the rod, weld the tube to the plates. That'd seriously reduce the bending stress in the frame when picking stuff from the back, your joint would now be a foot long instead of a couple inches long and it would be much stiffer in bending and much easier on your frame, the stress wouldn't be concentrated on a single point. I have no doubt this truck frame is capable of taking the force, it's just a question of getting a stiff enough joint that you aren't concentrating the stress in too small an area for it.
If you're interested in collaborating if you sent me some dimensions I could do a quick analysis and tell you approximately how strong your current setup would be versus the one I described. Of course if you're fine just leaving it as is I understand that too.
@@BuildSomethingAuto I like the ideas. I always appreciate the input. I found some similar build where they boxed in the frame on the clamping points. I went with this and boxed it in with 3/8 plate. I’d also like to better support the top with gussets so there is less twisting force on the frame.
As I run into these concerns I have been making improvements.
That’s a nice project
It was a fun build! More to come!
yes! i love this. i got so much stuff like this for my 7.3 lol
7:40 because frames are heat treated calibrated what ever if u cut it or drill hole in some frames could screw integrity
Absolutely. This is how it’s done.
Super cool, keep cuttin' brother!
Nice rig, but the Crane needs a bit more reinforcing. Or you Will Bend that Chassie.
@@stevetaylor5520 since the video I boxed the frame in.
I have an 04 international 7600 with a c13, and you won't believe it but I've got that exact high idle stick 😂😂😂
@@hvguy Awesome!
Yes yes, sir that right there is a future project of mine I’m just waiting to find the right used crane. 👍👍👍👍
@@lv7603 exactly. I found the right picker for cheap and grabbed it asap. And the build started there.
Its hard to watch people live your dreams. I was heavy breathing the entire time brother!
It’s definitely nice to have!
Thats dope.... im jealous...... now i wanna tear the bed off the cummins 🤣
Too legit
So what's the leftover payload?
About 5 pounds
Nice truck
Thank you!
Did you put the 3.73 gearing in yourself? I thought the dualies came with 4.10. I have a SRW 2003 F350 with 3.73 and a 99 F350 with 4.10. Genuinely curious if some came with 3.73.
I love the torque of my dually, but it doesn't get much better than 15mpg even on the flat roads in AB. Zf6 too.
I did not regear the truck. It came as a factory option to have 3.73 gearing on a dually. My other srw f350s are the sterling 10.5 rear end with 3.73 where the dually is a Dana 90 with 3.73. Duallys always get worse mileage just how it is.
thats a nice setup
Thank you
I would love a rig like that for doing engine swaps!
It’s definitely good for that
This is awesome
@@steverone7623 Thanks!!! I’m building something even cooler.
Love this setup
It does what it should.
Did you try the high idle with E-brake on? Not 100% sure about the high idle control module but factory high idle(cold weather\evbp) will only kick in on my zf6 when the E-brake pedal is pushed down(dash light on). The ECM will only activate it when it sees the 'brake light' bulb come on in the instrument cluster. Did you change the ECM when you swapped out 4R100 for zf6?
Anyways cool build man! I like the palfinger boom lift too!👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔩🔧🤔
✊🏻🦅🇺🇲🦅✊🏻
Yes. The Ebrake is always on when it’s parked since it is a manual. Yes I switched to the manual ecm. Not sure about the high idle yet. Might need to wire the clutch pedal into something else. I’ll figure it out some day.
Awesome
..I know you mentioned the ready rod in the video, and I even watched the whole video to see if you mentioned it.. but you're rip that crane right off there using ready rod. It's gonna stretch.. you need ubolts.
No. That is incorrect. This is how they are designed to be mounted.
life goal
That's what you should be able to do with a real truck, made to work
I want to put one next size bigfer on my 73 f700
Zedf6 thats a first iv ever heard someone call tge zf6 that lol
@@ryancollins3227 In Canada it is pronounced zed not zes
@@STROKER-GARAGE i know but still iv always heard zeef6 even on canadian channels i watch
I had joked with an ex saying "I wonder if those people say "zedebra" instead of saying "zeebra" like us. 😂
By the way, theres no indicator lights fitted. Only brake lights; thats not permitted under construction and use regulations in ANY country. You would end up being arrested for non compliance with that set up.
@@nataliehilton wrong wrong wrong. Read a book
@nataliehilton Hope you find sobriety, or a drink.
Well no, the indicators are red (that's a US thing)