always put the top stud back in before putting cover back on and use it to guide you on , then ya don't have to rotate cover any to find bolt holes and mess up yer RTV, all bolt holes will be lined up perfectly
The correct thread lock on that sleeve is Loctite 545. Do not install the sleeve that way with a hammer. There is a special tool to install that sleeve that sucks the sleeve down. It's about 100 bucks but many people get away with using the harmonic balancer. The hammer methed will not set that sleeve correctly and you are likely to get another leak from the seal/sealing surface being off center.
Depends on the sleeve. The tool you sre referring to is for the OEM Cummins sleeve. Much thicker, also more expensive. The one I used has held up fine for the past 8k miles, but if it fails early I'll post about it and why. I did try a few different methods to install it, don't remember why they didn't work out, but there was a reason I wound up with the hammer for this style of sleeve.
Ok just some info to add to this video when you get your crank seal you may or may not get the timing cover gasket, why i have no idear but,,, i did not get one in my fel pro set, but with the seal you get a plastic sleave it must remain in the seal while you install the cover on to the crank shaft... i used the seal tool but it set the seal to deep so no big deel the seal come with a steal rink that is part of your timing cover ALIMENT TOOL whil its on the bench check the fit of the steal ring. FIRST i used permeateX ADHDSIVE I PUT IT ON THE COVER then pull the plastic ring out .... startes a few bolts now then tap the steel ring in to meat your new seal it shoud be flush with the cover and should stay seated when you are installing the timing cover.BOLTS.. i gave the permatex 2 hr to set up befor putting all the blots in.. after that torque all bolts to 18 ft lbs..... i all so used the sleave kit on the crank shaft, the seal install tool comes with the sleave tool and sets it close to wair it should be just check and double check it
did my tappet cover seal then when assembling everything back together i dropped the vp keyway into the gear case so then i had to remove my front cover retrieve the keyway put everything back together now front seal is leaking and a fuel leak too pain in the ass job 🙄
Correct me if im wrong but did that seal go in backwards? Yellow strip is the dust cover and should be on the outside facing the radiator. The ring you used is the depth tool, not an install tool.
Well, no it's not. Sorry. He put the seal in backwards. Yellow ring to the outside. Install from the inside. Metal ring is a depth gauge inset in the front , outside of cover .
@@heikonyland7766 ah, gotcha. Maybe I'll redo it if it starts leaking. First time doing this unfortunately. I was concerned doing it the way you suggest would damage the pliable sealing surface, where as the other way puts the pressure against the solid metal side.
always put the top stud back in before putting cover back on and use it to guide you on , then ya don't have to rotate cover any to find bolt holes and mess up yer RTV, all bolt holes will be lined up perfectly
Thank you for the tip about the ratchet strap. That's gold!
The correct thread lock on that sleeve is Loctite 545. Do not install the sleeve that way with a hammer. There is a special tool to install that sleeve that sucks the sleeve down. It's about 100 bucks but many people get away with using the harmonic balancer. The hammer methed will not set that sleeve correctly and you are likely to get another leak from the seal/sealing surface being off center.
Depends on the sleeve. The tool you sre referring to is for the OEM Cummins sleeve. Much thicker, also more expensive. The one I used has held up fine for the past 8k miles, but if it fails early I'll post about it and why. I did try a few different methods to install it, don't remember why they didn't work out, but there was a reason I wound up with the hammer for this style of sleeve.
thank you im about to in-bark on the front main seal you tube is a great place to find help like this thank you great video
Can't stand oil leaks! Great repair!!🍺🏁
You and me both. Definitely sick and tired of them
@@AllThingsBoost how many miles on this beast?
@@Twobarpsi 225k and counting, as long as the oil stays in it, it should be solid for a good while longer lol
@@AllThingsBoost yeah when you start getting a lot of miles the seals usually give out long before the engine does!
Thoroughbred Diesel has a good video.
If you go ahead and unbolt that stuff you're struggling with ,it will serve you well on the install also...
You left your pressure washer on! And I don’t think it’s getting enough water. Lol 😂
If doing one yourself DO NOT use this video as a how to, this is the wrong way to do it. You have to install it from the inside of the timing cover.
You have fun hammering on the sealing surface side to go from the inside out...
Ok just some info to add to this video when you get your crank seal you may or may not get the timing cover gasket, why i have no idear but,,, i did not get one in my fel pro set, but with the seal you get a plastic sleave it must remain in the seal while you install the cover on to the crank shaft... i used the seal tool but it set the seal to deep so no big deel the seal come with a steal rink that is part of your timing cover ALIMENT TOOL whil its on the bench check the fit of the steal ring. FIRST i used permeateX ADHDSIVE I PUT IT ON THE COVER then pull the plastic ring out .... startes a few bolts now then tap the steel ring in to meat your new seal it shoud be flush with the cover and should stay seated when you are installing the timing cover.BOLTS.. i gave the permatex 2 hr to set up befor putting all the blots in.. after that torque all bolts to 18 ft lbs..... i all so used the sleave kit on the crank shaft, the seal install tool comes with the sleave tool and sets it close to wair it should be just check and double check it
I was wondering. They sell a timing cover gasket. Should I just use rtv?
I just used RTV, up to you
@@AllThingsBoost Alright. Thanks Bro.
did my tappet cover seal then when assembling everything back together i dropped the vp keyway into the gear case so then i had to remove my front cover retrieve the keyway put everything back together now front seal is leaking and a fuel leak too pain in the ass job 🙄
Damn, that's a shame. Working on these trucks in a real pain
It is a pain in the ass forreal
Correct me if im wrong but did that seal go in backwards? Yellow strip is the dust cover and should be on the outside facing the radiator. The ring you used is the depth tool, not an install tool.
The seal did not go in backwards. Different brands use different materials and colors.
Hi not sure if you can help. Switched out the vp44 but dropped the keyway. What's the easiest way to get it out? Tia
If you cant get it with a small magnet or something, you'll probably have to pull the timing cover off... that sucks.
@AllThingsBoost yea I tried a palm sized magnet and no results was hoping I didn't have to take it off thanks
Nice bro
Yeet! This job kinda sucked lol
You should paint the injector cover or whatever it’s called
Yeah, I'd like to get a bunch of engine bay stuff powder coated once the leaks are under control. Havent picked a color yet though
Hey bud where did you get that tool you were hammering to get the sleeve on ?
Came with the sleeve I got
@@AllThingsBoost thanks bud! You saved me about 2grand lol
Wrong wrong wrong!
Well that's not very helpful.
Well, no it's not. Sorry. He put the seal in backwards. Yellow ring to the outside. Install from the inside. Metal ring is a depth gauge inset in the front , outside of cover .
@@heikonyland7766 ah, gotcha. Maybe I'll redo it if it starts leaking. First time doing this unfortunately. I was concerned doing it the way you suggest would damage the pliable sealing surface, where as the other way puts the pressure against the solid metal side.
@@AllThingsBoosthas it leaked?
@@AllThingsBoosthas it leaked?