Best Cordless Routers: Toolsday with RR Buildings
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Today's Toolsday is all about cordless routers. I have the current battery powered cordless routers from the big three manufactures, and If you are curious which one is the best cordless router, I give my thoughts at the end.
Dewalt Router
bit.ly/DewaltRo...
Milwaukee Router
bit.ly/m18router
Makita Router
bit.ly/Makita18...
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I just finished building the handrail on my deck ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z and used this great little router to clean up the top rail before the final sanding and stain. It was light weight but packed lots of power. Either size battery didn't seem to make it top heavy and I'm a 64 yr old women so I really appreciated how easy it was to use...................... CORDLESS only way to go !!
With Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan, I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
Never bring your router backwards through the cut like that. It can so easily climb/jump out of the dado and onto your other hand. I know your a pro Kyle, but this is just for the new guys watching...
bonus tip: there is a time and place to use the router in the opposite direction----- when rounding over edges of hardwoods like cherry or walnut that have changing grain patterns and are likely to blow out. One light pass (backwards) with a firm grip and then one clean up pass in the typical cutting direction....
I just wouldn't recommend going backwards in any cut like a groove or dado
Came here to say this too.
I had to look away when Kyle started doing those dados and the square was moving all over the place
Can you do more beginner video's? The top 10 tips with the square was perfect. A lot of people don't explain very well as the go but you do👍 My son's and i love woodworking but where beginner's
He's definitely no pro on the router. You have touched on the best tip by far. pull back the first couple of mm then push through to avoid tear-out.
Iv'e seen the pro's get hurt bad this way! Not a good idea no matter how much experience you have. Use a router table or shaper with a power feeder if you want to climb cut!
Hey, give the guy a break!!! At 12:44 he says he's not a woodworker. He's a contractor trying to help all of us by exposing us to different tools and techniques. I think he does and incredible job with all the videos he produces and I think we should just say, "Thank You!!!" for all you present to us. Kyle has almost 500,000 subscribers, how many do you have? Come on!!!
Particularly on rough cut timber, rub some candle wax on the base of the tool. The cut will go much easier/smoother. I always carry a candle in with my tools and use it on every tool that has friction on the timber in its operation.
I have 2 of the DeWalt routers and they impress me everytime i use them on projects
Have used all three but have been using the DeWalt daily since last summer. Like it don’t love it. Hate the on/off (trim routers need a comfortable momentary paddle or trigger switch IMO NOT a click on click off. The DeWalt base plate is by far the most useful of the three and the DeWalt is also the most powerful (but then it’s half again bigger than the Makita - bigger motor. But the one cool thing that sets DeWalt totally apart - the $50 corded trim router plunge base fits the cordless router. That makes the DeWalt 10x more useful IMO.
Great information Kyle. Not being a woodworker, you should have used a UP spiral bit for the dados you made in the test. A up spiral clears the chips from the cut as they are pulled up towards the motor and out of the way. A DOWN spiral is pushing the chips away from the motor and into the work piece. If you are cutting all the way threw your material this is fine but if you are not it clogs the dado and causes more friction.
The Dewalt does have a micro adjust. It's the little yellow ring on the adjust ring
5:44 Watch it again and then explain to the UA-cam community what you have learned.
Anyone else get abit nervous cutting 1” deep in oak with a questionable bit on a 1/4” shanks?
as far as I was concerned you are only supposed to go as deep as the bit is wide
I don't beleive in 1 pass...
I bought the Dewalt and I just use the micro-adjust to set the depth it’s faster than macro-adjusting and then clipping the base on. I also like the long part of the base it makes it seem more sturdy.
I ran into the problem of putting a "too big" quarter round bit in my dewalt. Fixed it by bottoming out the base, putting in the bit, turning it on, then used the bit to "bore out" that too small hole in the plate :P
All my routers are set to speed 4 …. Never any burning and you’re can take your time and not rush .. and the turn out is beautiful
I think the Makita is more compact and a lot less plasticky, gimmicky. Having a smaller base let's you get closer in, in a tight space. I also loved that Makita didn't abandon their 18V line; They have the 18V x2. I think Makita has superior motor technology, as well, although the others have come a long way. I've owned cordless sets in all three of these brands, although for the last 7 years or so, it's been exclusively Makita. They totally sold me with the X2 line, I bought the 10" miter saw and dumped my corded one, the track saw and the plunge router. I don't want 3 different brands of batteries and chargers and the Makita lineup is by far the best, IMO and all of their tools have been flawless. Just my .02 Great Video, as always, Kyle!
I totally agree. I have been replacing all my Milwaukee garbage with makita and I cant believe the difference between them makita is hands down great quality tools.
Makita make fragile tools and have piss poor customer service... And Makita certainly does not have superior technology.
I have had all three… Hands-down Milwaukee is the best.
@@trentroberdeau1462 Milwaukee shares many internals with Rigid, Ryobi and HART which are all made by TTI in China. Makita isn't a subsidiary and makes many tools in Japan, the UK, Romania and some in the USA.
@@Fekillix the makita tools are made in Japan.... fragile pieces of shit. With shitty customer service. No thanks
I read the title and thought wireless routers and was confused when we didnt get into in home networking... I feel cheated. Good video as always Kyle!
I ended up going with the Makita platform over Milwaukee when I was building my shop because they had the trim router and Milwaukee didn't. The only problem was the price point if you wanted to get several accessories. I ended up buying the corded version with all the accessories for a great price and then just the tool only on the cordless. So now I have two routers for less than buying the cordless and the accessories. I think for most people, once they're in a platform, they'll stick to it.
Correct. I'm fully invested M12 and M18 so when I'm looking I always stay within my chosen platform.
19:25 With the DeWalt test you are going the same direction (away from you) on both sides of the dado so you are climb cutting on one of the cuts. You can hear the squeal when you do the climb cut. Not sure but when it bit into the board twice and you said "yikes" it might of been a climb cut.
Did this guy even look at the dewalt before he did this video? 🤔 All sweet routers you can't go wrong with any of them!
What's that mean lol
Safety-wise its always best to have the router stop rotating as quick as possible after you stop applying power to minimize injury. I know because a number of years ago I forgot one of my corded routers takes a few seconds to stop rotating and I clipped my leg and ripped both my jeans and leg. Not super bad, but very painful. You really should look at better bits.
Nice comparison, thank you. I have the Makita, love it.
You missed the little gauge on the Dewalt router.
Right bellow the black adjustment ring is a thin yellow one.
That thin yellow one spins freely to allow a 0 setting, then you turn the black ring until it lines up with the depth setting change needed.
You also misspoke about removing the base from the Dewalt. No need to spin the ring to remove, just push side clips and slide off.
Good video/review - although pushing a router into a fence when you're just manually holding that fence is absurdly dangerous! Should ideally never be pushing a power tool towards your fleshy bits lol - always 100% worth it to take the time to clamp or nail/screw your fence down so you can keep that other hand some place safe
you can mate, I did exactly that. ordered a sheet of 4mm clear acrylic and made a 115X115mm square base, it looks and performs like factory! give it a go.
Hello Kyle. Good review but I have a safety note. I know you said you don’t use a router much.... I have been using them for 40+ years.
**** Never pull the router back toward your body. That is what is causing the router to jump. When you pull it back toward yourself that is called a climb cut and is very dangerous. And as you said you would definitely want the speed square clamped down when making a dado like you did in the review. With a handheld router you always go left to right and with a router table you go right to left.
You can do a climb cut (right to left) with a handheld router using your round over bit going like a 1/64” maybe a 1/32” but you need to have your material clamped down and two hands on the router.
Also just an FYI the DEWALT corded unit of the same size has a plunge base available for it that also fits the 20volt motor.
Ron
You don't always go left to right when hand-held to avoid a climb cut. It depends if the router is in between you and the material, or if the material is in between you and the router. same as the different direction needed for routing the internal of external edge of a perimeter.
Hello Kyle, Thanks for the info. Just the push I needed to pick up some more Makita tools. I found the cordless planer and the router kit packaged for $94 which included a 3 1/4" cordless planer, battery and charger at $89 with $5 shipping. I cannot complain about their 18v system and hope they keep it going as I am heavily invested in that platform. For me it is handier to switch batteries than lug a humongous one around all day. Take care. Doug
I typically work at a bench in a shop doing solid surface work. Cordless has changed my trim router game. I had and liked the ryobi cordless since 2006. I now use three of the cordless makita routers and two ryobi. Ryobi are only good for roundovers, and the makita can swing any bit that is reasonable for a trim router. the ryobi is not stiff enough so I only use them with bearing bits. To sum it up... I switch routers not bits, and I don't get tangled in any cords.
I have the Milwaukee and am very pleased with it. I love having a cordless because the dragging cord was always an annoyance and when your using a precision tool like a router that moment when a cord snags can cause errant cuts more so than most cutting tools. In just hoping they come out with a more powerful one soon so I can forever ditch the cord for heavy duty routing like mortising boxes stringers like the custom alternate tread stair case I made this past summer.
This video could be of great value if you edited it and pointed out all the dangerous router techniques you used... I respect you for acknowledging them in comments.
14:47 *MIKITA DEMO*
15:46 *DEWAULT DEMO*
16:47 *MILWAUKEE*
18:00 *MilWAukee*
19:19 *Dewault*
20:59 *Mikita*
23:36 *Mikita*
24:13 *dewault*
24:43 *Milwaukee*
The numbers on the speed adjuster are just to let you know where you are on the scale. If there were no numbers you’d have to go to the lowest to establish where the start of the speed adjustment is.
Braking is a nice safety feature. I use my Makita in a router table, so braking is not an issue for my use. My 30+ year old 3hp beast of a Makita 1/2” collet corded plunge router could sure use that... it’s scary!
Standard practice using routers: max 5mm depth of cut. You burn less bits and save limbs and tools.
Americans don't understand metric my bro.
Imagine the progress we could have made if we didn't have to deal with a mix of metric and r~tard units.
@@Patrick-857 was’ “metrics”? Does they have something to do with the Olympics?
Can’t speak for the others but the Makita brushless is brilliant.
I bought the Milwaukee because I'm heavily invested in both of their platforms (but not exclusively) because they have proven to me that they are the most innovative, well built and the responsive to any issues that inevitably occur. I used the router the last 2 days for building a enclosed stringer alternating stair case. It was not able to hog out the mortises for the treads and risers in the stringers as it over heated the motor while using a 3/4" straight cutting bit for that application. But today I milled the treads and used it with a 3/4" round over bit to round over both sides of 14 treads and it performed flawlessly! It's all about using any given tool properly for the tasks they are designed for. You wouldn't surf fish with a ultra light 5' spinning rod with only 5 lb test on it right?
HI Kyle:
To start with most Woodworkers set the depth from the bottom of the router, not from some markings on the router. If I need two or three routers to do a operation I always use the same number of routers. I just can't get back to the same setting.
Router Bits. For the last twenty five years or so I have only bought Whiteside or Freud Router bits. Yes, they cost more, but they are sharper and last longer. Whiteside router Bits are made in North Carolina.
Thanks
I agree...dont rely on the markings.
Kyle,
You criticized the DeWalt for not having any micro depth adjustment graduations, or reference marks, to set specific, precise depths.
--> "there's no dimensions on the tool itself". "So once you get set, let's say you want to go another sixteenth of an inch deeper in your dado cut"
In fact the tool does have those markings on the adjustment ring itself.
If you need to go a sixteenth inch deeper, just rotate the ring one sixteenth of an inch on the ring's graduation scale.
That being said, I really enjoy your projects, and your ability to communicate the ins and outs of your business. You also produce quality video and audio in adverse construction (and convention hall ) environments.
Keep up the good work.
Al Palmiter
I have used a Rigid cordless trim router in the new wood shop for last 3 years. Is does round over, bevel and cove light duty work. I never use it to plow rabbets or dados. A clamped full length straight edge would of proved a more safe and better demonstration. Light duty routers like these should cut a max of 1/4 inch per pass. The chatter is telling you to much and too fast.
Cool. A good rule of thumb: The larger the bit diameter, the lower the rpm should be. It's about keeping the speed of the cutting edges within the optimal range across bit diameters. Also, running larger bits too fast is dangerous.
Makita !! Routes out windows with 7/16’s like a mule !! Just as powerful as corded router ! Yes battery use is fast, but, no cords is impressive ! I can route out two 6’x 6’10”sliders, two 8050’s and two 6050’s on a 80’ wall with battery to spare.
I use makita tools and honestly they just feel smoother than anything else which in my opinion is the most you could want from a tool..less fatigue means more productivity
Try milwaukee than you will change your opinion... That makita unlock switch makes me crazy. You're cutting something and you just need to change positions of your body and... Press button but no! First press unlock button. Stupidest thing on profi tools
We have all on our jobs. Dewalt just do better over all
The dewalt “20V max” is an 18volt battery. In Europe they are just labelled as 18V because 20V max is misleading advertising. All the batteries at 20V when fully charged and under no load
@17:32 you're lucky to still have fingers, close call
You're "taller" joke cracked me up. Well executed.
Haha
Dust collection with the Makita was a big selling feature for me -- it works great
I have the dewalt one love it
Routers aren't designed to make spring cuts. With a standard bit, they're climb cut only. Secondly, 1/4" routers are trim/laminate routers.
Plunging a 1/4" diameter bit one inch deep is a good way to a) snap a bit, b) have the router kick back and cut the shit out of your self. You have the plunge base, use it for the designed function.
I'll stick with my Bosch corded routers.
I know what it’s designed to do... if I just did some trimming it wouldn’t showcase much of a test... was trying to push it knowing it would be tough
@@RRBuildings+
Kyle, obviously you didn't, otherwise you wouldn't have attempted the spring cut and the kick back shown.
I worked with some pneumatic routers that ran @ 60,000 rpm routing out aircraft skins up to 3/16" thick.
Whenever we'd get someone fresh out of tech school, it was a given they'd end up on medical closing up a wound from a broken router bit.
It got so bad, that I had to design a gateway to install onto the router guide that only allowed insertion one direction.
Gunga Dinn so where is your review and video tutorial/breakdown? Aloha
@@sirmixalot3332
I don't review tools for a living or UA-cam views.
1/4" router bits made of carbide are very hard and extremely brittle. They will snap off easily if you abuse them.
The comment you're replying to was from 9 months ago, so someone must have just seen your first R&R video?
For a power hand tool I think vibration and smoothness through the material is pretty important
You know what the biggest disappointment with every tool test is...... whats the battery level after? If the tool kicks ass but the battery doesn't last then whats the point?
That’s why everyone has more than 1 battery...
Upward spiral would work better with trench cuts as it brings the material up & out. A downward pushes the material down into the hole and is best if you’re plunging and cutting all the way through your work as the waste would then end up on the floor below.
Good comparisons though, liking your work!
I agree I didn’t have one and figured anything to bog it down might be good to show
I bought the Makita router for it's small size about 6 months ago and a Dewalt to Makita battery adapter so I can use all of my Dewalt batteries with it !!
Great to hear that that adapters work. I love my Makita tools, but would love to use my Milwaukee batteries with it. Where did you get the adapter?
@@MovingToMnPro Its the Battery Adapter DM18M on Amazon. It also works with Milwaukee batteries.
@@TheDirtyBirchTrails Thanks! I'm going to pick one up.
You were using the wrong bit that is why it was packing the slot. You use a up spiral for slotting and a down spiral when going through the material.
I get it...I didn't have another one
I personally like the Rigid Cordless 18 Volt Router. They have a lifetime warranty on their batteries. 😀
Ya but paying to ship them is expensive.
7:02, yes there is, is on the large black dial you turn.
Not mentioned here but DeWalt's cordless router also fits with all accessories of their corded version. Meaning you can use the same base or plunge base. So if you already have the corded version and you want the cordless router in top, no need to buy all stuff again. Just the bare unit. How about Makita and Milwaukee? Are they also compatible with their corded counterparts?
@wagbjorn
The Makita bases and accessories are also interchangeable between the corded and cordless models just like the DeWalt.
I have both brands in both corded and cordless, and they all work well, just a bit different in use obviously. Can't really go wrong with either.
The Makita will work with all the corded accessories. Benefit!
have u used a router before cause that was brutal, also its a trim router meant for light work, if you do that sort of work with it regularly it wont last long
"teste"
Hi,
I have the DeWalt router. I like the base (round & square), power, quite and the power switch location . I don't like the micro adjustment and It's also bulky. Still a great cordless router.
The body on the milwaukee and makita looks like a better feel in most people hands but i can be wrong. The micro adjustment looks way better then the dewalt. Just don't like the small bottom plate on the milwaukee and makita. I hope milwaukee and makita will come out with a bottom plate that looks like the dewalt that you can purchase separately.
Just my input. ..
Thanks for the video
The Milwaukee and makita both have bigger plates available
@@RRBuildings
Wow, That's good to know.
Can't wait to try out the milwaukee cordless router.
Thanks
@Leopold
Huh, that's good to know.
Thanks
Great impartial review! I'm definitely team makita but not one company can be the best at everything so it's important to review equally. Just thinking at the bottom of the makita router, the black base plate seems removable. I'd like to see if I could make a plexiglass clear baseplate for it with a single square edge to copy the dewalt's design? That seems to be a well thought out baseplate from dewalt there.
I think it was ryobi who had the first cordless trim router.Old blue one with ni cad run time sucked until lithium ion batteries came out .I did a ton of laminate and round overs on fence posts and stuff just died on me after 10yrs.
Cut in the direction like a skillsaw
Downer spiral its best used for a thru cut, due to the fact your pushing all the materia down into your wood jamming shit up. You want a upward spiral for what your doing.
What does upward sprial offer? I have the Ridgid Octane Cordless router and it seems to jamb when I cut using the downward spiral
@@SHuseman it simply clears debris from the cut. It shears the fibers in an upward fashion.
@@SHuseman exactly what cole stated, it pulls the cutoff material up towards the shank, rather then forcing it down, hence downward spiral, upward spiral.
This is a good video if you're a beginner and you're trying to decide which cordless router to buy 👍 but also you get a feel at how each brand/company build and that way you get a better idea which company would suit your working style. That is, if you're trying to commit to one platform for all your tools
Definitely like you said you are no finish carpenter. This is a compact router, not a skill saw or a Martinez hammer. You most to learn the rotation and the depth and the wood that you want to make a groove o whatever the wood you’re using. In the way that you used you will be buying a compact router every week. You’re a phenomenal worker but in this branch I think you most to learn more and be more careful with the tools. Take care.👍🏻
I use Makita tools and find the lock function a good thing. Childrens safety before anything else. Safety all in all
I only use makita. Allways the best in the price bracket.
That’s why they want to take away guns. For the children
Child safety when you dont have children?
@@MichaelJordan-hn4zd exactly. It's the excuse they use to ban everything.
Some safety features are to protect the children and others to protect against stupidity.
Not everyone has there hands and head attached the right way and therefor safety features are taken in to action.
And sorry to say ‘us’ with hands and head in order, sometimes see it as an attack instead of something meant to do good.
The Makita gets pretty good reviews on Amazon. I do woodwork at home, so I'll most likely buy a corded router when I'm not using the router insert on my table saw.
Everything gets good reviews on Amazon they just want to sell, if they need to sell it -it gets good reviews Period.
My only complaint on all 3 of these which I have used the dewalt and I have the makita, but the dewalt is kind big in diameter. But other than that it's a smooth router just like the makita which is very smooth.
The RPM is important for the type and diameter of the bit, and sometimes the type of wood. I build fine furniture, so I would tend to see the router differently than a Carpenter. If you needed to rip a piece of 5/4 decking, and need to put a radius back on it, or to round-over the nose of a stair tread, then toss it back on the truck till the next job, anyone of those routers would work. If you are working with Maple one day, Cutting dados into prefinished ply for a built-in on another, then adding an Ogee to a Cherry table on another - you would end up having more than a dozen routers like me. ( Don't tell the wife, she thinks I only have 10 ) At that point, HP, a 1/2 shank, bearing play and maintaining constant RPM start to make a difference. But - We are in different worlds, (and I'm not criticizing yours) - My Grandfather was a Carpenter all his life, he didn't own a power tool till he was 60. I wish he were still around to see how you work - he would be amazed. We built "jib arms", and used blocks and tackle to raise timers and trusses.
Good info thanks
Its great to see you give your opinion and commentary throughout the review,so many reviewers just describe the product but don't give anything useful. Well done
I wish you would update this video and compare the Bosch, which is famous in the router world, and include the Ryobi because it’s inexpensive and may be appropriate for the homeowner.
I'm not an electrical engineer, but I have heard AvE reference the inductive load that happens when you stop a motor, that is spinning, too fast.
So perhaps Makita wanted to take that load out of the tool altogether by letting the tool ramp or coast to a stop rather than stopping it abruptly. It may have been done with tool life in mind or perhaps they didn't want to spend the money to add in the protection in the motor circuit to defend against the surge that would happen when you stopped the motor quickly.
makita always has tool life their 1st priority
Yes they do. The worst case of this is AEG who will just stop your tool completely with the slightest warmth on the battery pack.
Your personal safety and avoid an injury should be priority for Makita instead of tool longevity. They should improve it like Dewalt and Milwakee instant brake.
@@joaquinsuarez6090 consider the tools purpose. It's meant to have it's cutting tool plunged into the cut. So even if it does fail then the work should be enough to stop the spindle.
I can't wait to buy my first router. Milwaukee for sure since I'm already on that platform. Looking to do some woodworking as a hobby
For me it looks like The Milwaukee would be the way to go. As big as the DeWalt is you might as well have a regular corded router.
"As big as the Dewalt is you might as well have a regular corded router"... Nah, I'm good.. I'll do without the cord. If its one power tool that I absolute despise the cord, it's a router....
Can you make a comparison on brushless jigsaws? Makita, Milwaukee & Dewalt. No-one had done it yet.
I can’t see needing a cordless version of this tool being that’s it’s a micro area job. If I had to walk all over the shop maybe but I wouldn’t mind this being corded at all.
I’d want the best though
If you are cutting a groove you need to use an up spiral bit or just a conventional bit. Using the down spiral bit won’t allow the chips to clear, all it is doing is trying to jam all of the chips to the bottom of the hole.
The standard round base is for trim work. (using a trim bit with a bearing on the edge of the wood) The plunge base on the makita has a flat side for running against a fence FWIW. The Dewalt "20volt " is really just another 18volt battery being overrated and called a 20volt. I don't think he realizes that either. (the Dewalt and Makita use the same type 18650 lithium cells) The Milwaukee "Fuel" 18 volt uses larger cells in its batteries 21500 cells vs 18650 cells but it makes the batteries wider longer and heavier but increases run time and tool weight. Makita has finally caved and is calling their new 36volt batteries "40volt" because of people not understanding, and believing Dewalts "20volt" voltage Marketing B.S. I imagine Milwaukee will too.
Why do you have to do all tis dado cuts with maximum RPMs? Turn the RPMs down an. it and all three of them will go through it like butter. That is what the adjustable Revs dile is for.
Just a couple of things I'd like to share.
When routing 1" deep through the 2x4, giving the router to cut so deep in one pass is taxing to the router, giving the router too much work at one time. I'd think most experienced users of routers, if they had to route 1" deep, they would do it in several passes. Between each pass, clean out the wood chips/shavings between passes. It'll be a lot cleaner and your tool and battery will last longer.
The other thing is about safety. At 21:35 after using the Makita, the router bit is still turning when you pull it out and you say something about it being a little dangerous. Actually, I think that's very dangerous. When working with power tools, it's best to let the tool come to a complete stop Before you move the tool or the work/wood that is still in contact with the tool. Don't count 100% on safety features built into tools.
Can't help wondering if an up spiral bit wouldn't pack the chips in like the down spiral does. The trade off is the risk of tear out at the top edge
yes totally...I just don't have one
I just flattened a 100yo butcher block with a Dewalt plug in router. It chewed away for hours pushing a 1.5 inch flattening big against hard maple. Didn't heat up or slow down. Dewalt def makes some choocher tools.
I went with Milwaukee and it’s power shakes micro adjustment dial ‘off of depth !
Oh look at that, I was just shopping for a cordless router. Is my Alexa sending you suggestions? [always listening]
...Should take that surveillance droid out for a little target shooting session ;)
@@nvlvdave Your smartphone does the same thing.
The Makita manual will tell you the speed for the number on the adjustment wheel. 10k for 1, +5k for 2-5. Probably the others do too.
Just bought the Milwaukee like it a lot only problem is getting the bit in the collet I have to keep pulling it out to get the bit inserted.
Dave Loderhose fat finger problems?
The unlock on the makita is a pain in the ass, same thing on the jigsaw and does my head in. Honestly though I’ll go makita coz I’m in the battery trap now plus the makita can come as a kit with a plunge base.
The Dewalt is basically just a 18 V (in europe) and the flexvolt battery changes volt-types according to which machine it sits in (18/54 in europe). The Higher ah batteri.... also means more weight and balance issues.
I bought the Dewalt on Black Friday deal last year. Got the router and a 5.0 battery for $129 but I’m not a fan. It def needs higher RPMs and I’m not a fan of the micro adjust. Wish I would’ve held out for the Milwaukee. Even though most of my tools are Makita, the slow shut down was a deal breaker for me.
i got a makita, where i work in uk somebody has got a milwakee, which is not bad but, someone has got bosch, i am not a fun of bosch at all
but, the way you can handle it makes the most difference and it really feel great . ( 12volts )
I wish you would review the battery converters. Where u can run Milwaukee tools with dewalt batteries. It would help if you one platform, but want the triple hammer...
That is a great idea. Sixtyfiveford just did one but I would like to see other takes on them. Sure be useful.
It's not worth it for good and expensive tools and batteries, good batteries and tools talk to each other for thermal protection + it is very unwieldy with the adapter on the end.
I run about 5 Ryobi tools off adapters including a packout compressor.
Surebonder adapters let's me use Milwaukee or Makita batteries.
Also have a Milwaukee to ridgid which I've never used.
I tried fake M12 and m18 batteries, It killed several chargers. So I quit using them.
@@2chipped so you wouldnt run the triple hammer on a good dewalt battery?
No, it's a chance that you will overheat the motor. Electronics talk to the battery and the battery will shut off.
I run M12, m18 and Makita 18 battery platforms.
I can literally hear the tighter motor tolerances on the Dewalt. All of these routers are using DC brushless motors. I only dwelt and I have also purchased the makita clone which many reviewers claim is the same machine. I can tell you The Dewalt router has more torque. This will produce better run times smoother cuts and less feedback.
The Makita looks the better tool with the additional bases, especially the plunge. Game changer. Cheaper than the other two by far.
I think for what I would be using it for occasional small jobs I'm going to go with the makita because I already have a bunch of 6 amp makita batteries and a charger so I don't need to buy new batteries etc and being a small female with little hands the makita will be easier for me to hold and use, Ive always used and like makita as far as quality and toughness Ive got makita drills that are ancient and look like they have come out of a bombsite and still run perfect and I know the batteries charge fast and hold the charge well and they are tough Ive dropped them a tonne of times they are dented all over and still work perfect. Thanks for doing the demo. I would also love to see what Bosch has I quite like their tools aswell.
@Sarah Thompson
You'll like the little Makita. It's a great cordless router for what it was designed to do, which is light trim/finish work.
I also have the corded version of the DeWalt router which is excellent as well, and all of the accessories & bases are interchangeable with the DeWalt cordless version shown here in Kyle's test.
But the DeWalts have a much larger motor housing that isn't as comfortable and ergonomic for small hands.
The advantage with the DeWalt is the larger overall base plate size combined with its one slightly extended straight side which makes it more stable than the others on your workpiece.
For a compact, lightweight Drill/Driver that will handle 95% of your hole-drilling & screw-driving needs for benchtop work and assembly/installation, check out the newer *BOSCH Brushless 12V FlexiClick Drill/Driver Kit* with interchangeable heads.
The interchangeable FlexiClick heads make it extremely versatile, and it is one of the most compact drill/drivers available. It is FANTASTIC and I very rarely need to reach for my larger 18v drill/drivers.
If you need a bit more torque/power & runtime for it, get one of Bosch's larger 4-AH or 6-AH battery packs for it, which are a more traditional rectangular "foot" type design which allows the drill to stand upright.
Thanks for the comparison Kyle! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Then the comparison comes to use; finish work vs rough carpentry. Most of your negatives are positives for me as a cabinet builder. Speed of adjustment, isn’t as important if the feature is desirable for the work, like fine adjustments in height and speed. The number helps for different routing materials, because higher speeds can burn or melt the material. I’d rather have the number than try to figure out the rpms. Also, I can tell my help what number to set the router to, which is better for training/learning. Same with variable speed sanders, saws, drills, etc.
Cordless vacuums! Do they come with a dust bag? How much crap they can pick up? How long of a run time? Thank you for the great videos.
IMO in this video the best to last performance was Dewalt, Milwaukee and last, but not least Makita. Just need to get used to the adjustments that the Dewalt offers. I have the corded version of the Dewalt and it was definitely confusing and cumbersome in the beginning, but you will get used to it very quickly.
Decent comparison of the 3 tools, but I winced when he ran 1" of bit into the wood. I understand that it's a demonstration of tool power, but that's way too deep (and too fast) to cut in 1 pass with this tool. You also see kickback when routing the piece of oak. Gotta be really careful doing this on an unmilled board, it's an easy way to seriously injure yourself and create massive tearout.
Kyle, did you ever do a video on the hydraulic impact drivers? I have heard you rave about how much quieter they are and less likely to strip bits. I'd love to hear/see more. Thanks!
I don't know why people worry about sticking to one platform. Get the best tool for the job you're doing.
batteries, chargers, and so on. it gets too much
Love these blenders 😃
I was just researching cordless routers, Dewalt it is. Thanks!
Hey Kyle, loved the video, once again thanks for what you do!!!
Looking forward to a toolsday on the new Milwaukee framer. Thanks
I can’t wait to share it with everyone Russell
RR Buildings thanks for responding, hey another question, I’m from Sydney Australia, and I want to know has the Packout radio come out in the US yet?