Hi Simon I had the bi-metalic type relay on the Falcon at first but depending how long you were at rest indicating it used to go very slow or stop. When you set off again because the dynamo kicked in it started working! The electric relay does not suffer from that, you can only test that on the road. My sidelights are the 1130 torpedo type with a double filament bulb 5w/20w. That worked well, I have recently changed to an LED indicator/side light with the same electronic flasher. The side light is cancelled when the indicator is operated automatically I have still got tungsten bulbs in the back. If you are not happy with the set up you can stick a double filament bulb holder in and go down that route. I recommend you put halogen bulbs in the headlights. I would be hesitant to strip the chassis of all its parts and start again! You can get excellent results with a decent brush decent enamel paint some warmth and a bit of patience, have a think!! It is looking very good, a bit of filler on the body will not matter! Cheers John
I think taking it apart is the best way to paint it. It's not actually too bad. There really isn't too much to them. Since the chassis is a C channel it would be hard to get to everything to paint it by hand. I think the indicators should be OK. I did get lower wattage side lamp bulbs but I think I will look at adding relays to turn off the side lamp when the indicator flashes. Not sure I can get halogen headlamps top fit these lamps. And LEDs aren't allowed for headlamps unless the lamp housing is designed for them. You don't want to do anything that gives them reason not to pass the car. They are allowed in all the other lamps though.
I would suggest (quite strongly) not to use the uniform crimp type connector. The reason is the crimp does not transfer any of the load from the wire (its weight and inertia) to the insulation sleeve. In a car there is a lot of vibration low and high frequency ad this gets transferred to the wire. The uniform crimp has a very high stress point right at the end of the crimp where, due to the crimping action, the copper is work hardened (a small amount) and when the vibration acts on the wire this becomes the highest stress point and work hardens the copper even more which will eventually fail. The uniform connectors are designed for zero vibration applications, which a car is not. The half closed connectors with strain relief onto the wire insulator are for applications with a vibration input. Made the same comment to Big Clive.
Thanks for commenting. What you say makes sense. In a pre-war car there is definitely vibration! EVERYTHING moves. I'll look at getting some of the half crimp style pins/sockets.
Hi Simon I had the bi-metalic type relay on the Falcon at first but depending how long you were at rest indicating it used to go very slow or stop. When you set off again because the dynamo kicked in it started working! The electric relay does not suffer from that, you can only test that on the road. My sidelights are the 1130 torpedo type with a double filament bulb 5w/20w. That worked well, I have recently changed to an LED indicator/side light with the same electronic flasher. The side light is cancelled when the indicator is operated automatically I have still got tungsten bulbs in the back. If you are not happy with the set up you can stick a double filament bulb holder in and go down that route. I recommend you put halogen bulbs in the headlights. I would be hesitant to strip the chassis of all its parts and start again! You can get excellent results with a decent brush decent enamel paint some warmth and a bit of patience, have a think!! It is looking very good, a bit of filler on the body will not matter! Cheers John
I think taking it apart is the best way to paint it. It's not actually too bad. There really isn't too much to them. Since the chassis is a C channel it would be hard to get to everything to paint it by hand. I think the indicators should be OK. I did get lower wattage side lamp bulbs but I think I will look at adding relays to turn off the side lamp when the indicator flashes. Not sure I can get halogen headlamps top fit these lamps. And LEDs aren't allowed for headlamps unless the lamp housing is designed for them. You don't want to do anything that gives them reason not to pass the car. They are allowed in all the other lamps though.
I think the tail piece looks perfect! Any flaws will make it look even better. Cheers
It's come out OK. A few small flaws are fine, gives it that hand crafted look right!
@@asciimation 😁
Have a look at the MK1 Aussie Mini’s for the indicator/park light combo. Pretty basic setup but works well and very visible when the parks are on.
Thanks, I did try looking this up but haven't found any specific details for the Aussie ones yet.
I would suggest (quite strongly) not to use the uniform crimp type connector. The reason is the crimp does not transfer any of the load from the wire (its weight and inertia) to the insulation sleeve. In a car there is a lot of vibration low and high frequency ad this gets transferred to the wire. The uniform crimp has a very high stress point right at the end of the crimp where, due to the crimping action, the copper is work hardened (a small amount) and when the vibration acts on the wire this becomes the highest stress point and work hardens the copper even more which will eventually fail. The uniform connectors are designed for zero vibration applications, which a car is not. The half closed connectors with strain relief onto the wire insulator are for applications with a vibration input. Made the same comment to Big Clive.
Thanks for commenting. What you say makes sense. In a pre-war car there is definitely vibration! EVERYTHING moves. I'll look at getting some of the half crimp style pins/sockets.
did you ever do your repair with the hardwood dowels?
Oh, yes I did! I just didn't film it. It was reinforced with metal plates and extra screws AND glued and doweled.
@@asciimation right on , looking forward to seeing you paint it