You can't find newer better chucks then that, not even from Duss, Fein, Mafell or Hilti, and Hilti are even crap compared to the one from Makita 458. If you can find some industrial longer models from Fein or Duss from the '60, '70, '80, '90s, those are better. And another two things, chucks with plastic are wey better both more reliable and also more friendly to stuff you work on. The plastic is made from HD polimers and glass fiber reinforced like the drill body. All metal chucks from Bosch, Makita, Hilti, DeWalt, etc. breack down, some faster some in 3 years, but the plastic ones, not all but most that are for the better drills last decades of abuse. And I choose only non percusion models, like DDF 458, 453, 456, 480, 487, that are more reliable from avoiding the percussion stress. For bricks yow don't realy need percussion if you use good drill bits with sharp metal carbides. And for concrete you use a rotary hammer, not a stupid percussion drill.
The Rohm chuck fitted to the 458 and other high end models is very strong and reliable....your video is misleading, there is no reason to suggest there is a weakness in this chuck.
@Daniel Azard My review of this Clip and my newest Comment after watching it again. The DDF/DHP481, which is the most powerful Battery-Drills of Makita, is a brushless one! The DDF/DHP458 is brushed. These two are the most powerful Drills in their 18V Battery-System until today. Both, mentioned before and the DDF/DHP,451 which has three gears, is like the 458 brushed. It uses the same Coal-Brushes: CB440. These three are delivered with a Side-Handle. In Powers, over 60 Nm`s, which all three produce, Side-Handles are necessary and sometimes even manditory in certain Countries. Accident-Preventions ;-) You can also drill into Wood with an Impact-Driver, but you are limitted with the use. The connection between those 1/4 inch Bit-Drills and the 1/4 inch Drill-Chuck, are only save up onto a certain Diameter. Those Flat Drills, I mean. Your other Wood-Drivers are better, that you show in the Clip. These ones you can use with an Impact Driver well. But you should only use a Drill, for what it is meant for. That means an SDS-Plus, or SDS-Max-Drill is working in the SDS-Plus/SDS-Max Drill-Machine better, than inside other Drill-Chucks. They will slip inside the Chucks, because of the Material they are made of and the surface of it. You can abuse a Drill in different ways, for a different Material maybe, but you should know what you are doing than. The results are mainly not good! You don`t need to use the Hammer-Function for Wood in a Drill-Machine, unless you want to damage either the Drill, or the Material you Hammer-Drive into, like you did. The Hammer-Function is not meant for drilling into Wood. Also not for Steel and Iron, or maybe Plastic-Glas, or every other Material, which does not need the support of the Hammer-Drill Function. It is for Bricks and Concrete.This Material does need this Function, if the normal Drill-Function does not bring progress into the drilling-process. But the Brick you drove into with an SDS-Plus Drill, does not really need the Hammer-Function. It is possible with the normal Drill-Function and the right, sharp Drill and a lot of feeling for the Material, next to the Know-How, of what this Brick is made of. And especially what happens, if you fail. That is mainly the point, when you start to learn from your failures. It is a question of attitude and knowledge, when you do things, with other things. Like, if you screw and unscrew a Pozi-Driver Screw-Head with a PH Driver-Bit. Thats when you get sounds, like you are producing in the Clip, for instance. Pressure does not help in that case, then. The Driver-Bit will be damaged and the Screw is also suffering. So in terms of an Impact-Driver, mainly you want to sink Screws into Wood with it , or use it for Metal-Screws, for Connections and tightening Materials, with high powers. There are a lot of those cheap Drills and Driver-Bits out there and they are not a good choice in the long run, even if you can re-place them. For softer Wood, they are a good alternative, but for harder Wood, they are not a good choice in my experience. The DDF/DHP is a good Drill. If you know how and why you are using it. That is, why I bought it back then, for my private uses. I don`t need it as often, that a brushless makes sense. It has less power than the bruhless, but a lot of power, for what I use it for, when I need it. I worked with the DHP481 at my job, where a brushless Motor makes sense, if you drill wider Diameters into thick Woods for instance. It lasts longer, if you use it more often at the job. If you use Drills, you need ones, that are robust and won`t let you down, if you drill with them. They are made of quality and are centerd, but are expensive. If you have a low budget, or your customer, you also need to spend many times, buying a new drill than. It only hurts once in your pocket, but saves a lot of stress and problems, that will follow, if you save at the wrong end. In your case, you need to overthink, if brainless and/or brushless is the same maybe, if I review your Clip? If you wobble into Hard-Wood with the cheap Drills, you will get a result, like the one, you showed us. Use it as Spare-Part, or put it into the Recycling-Process, called dump. There might be black Editions of the 458 in the US. But they are also brushless, never more and never less. ;-) Stay save! :-)
Hi there, are you really sure, that you know, what you are talking about and what you are doing with the DHP 458 there? I don`t think you are! Let me start with your discription headline. This is a BRUSHED Hammer Drill. The DHP 481 is a brushless one, which is the drill-driver, with the most power of the 18V - System. So, you should correct your headline in favour of it! Next, you are atleast wearing safety-shoes, so you won`t hurt yourself, when slipping off. The way you set it up, screams for failures and injury. Your demonstration set up is a dangerous one with the 458. It is a very strong drill-driver and to minimize the risk of an injury, always use the side-handle, which is delivered with it, when using bigger drills and bits. Read the instruction carefully therefore! Not without a reason! The side-handle prevents the risk of an injury, because you can easily hurt your wrist and arm, if you get stuck inside the material, you are intruding with it! Always fix the material tight, you are driving into, especially, if you are not experienced. Your foot and your set up is not safe, when using it with higher power. This is the impression I have, watching you. You seem to be over-excited, demonstrating it. This is called stage-fright. Not helpful, if you don`t know, what you are doing. And dangerous, too! So, before you are working with it, check in which position the option-mode-switcher is. That way you sustain the life-time of your driver-bits. Next, if you are unscrewing with it, you also need to put up pressure onto it, like when driving screws into your material. That way, you will also have a much longer lifetime of your bits and avoid the annoying noise, you are producing with it. You will be the joke on the construction-site, making that noise with it. I am using the DHP 458 since 2013 and never had problem with the chuck, so I don`t see your point to it. Looks like the drill stuck inside, is a cheap one. Means, it is made of a soft steel-quality. No wonder, it got stuck in it, when using a drill-driver with this high power. Makita`s service did not put up that warning triangle without a reason. You may use it as a spare-part, if you need to repair your newer one. Otherwise, it is useless. Keep it that way. I usually do not criticise someone, who knows, what he is doing, but in your case, it seems to be necessary! Please, for your own safety and for the next critics, who will watch this,take your review off. You are making a fool out of yourself! There are a lot of negative folks here on YT, who won`t let a dry hair on you, when watching and commenting it. Stay save and healthy. And practise more in a safe way with it. If you won`t hurt yourself, you will earn money, if you are a craftsman. If not, you will not be able to do so. ;-)
@Mark Valentino Oops, I got something wrong in my comment before. I was multi-tasking and mixed you up with our specialist, who is responsable for this Clip. I corrected that. Sorry Mark, but I watched all his Clips from Makita Cordless Tools. He is a heavy one in his presentations. Hillarious and also frightenning to watch. I had a lot of Coyotees and also slapped my own head multiple times. Hard crap and slap to watch here. Where is my Helmet?!? It has an entertaining factor, in how not and please do not ever do that!?! My OMG`s didn`thelp during the time he released this Clip and the ones that followed. Is this, what endurance is, or simply stubborn? Some never learn, or had learned before repeating its own faults again, I see here. If one walks in a steady circle, he can save his way back at the same time, I guess. Where does this go from here, I keep asking myself? The answer knows only one. But who is he? Is it him, or am I not noticing something? Mmh, ....? I might be picky, but how much does he know of Drilling, Tools to drill with and Material, you can drive into? He will become an expert of accidents, caused by wrong use of Tools and Material. I might be over-reacting and I am to educated by four Professions, I was once educated in, but this guy is a burner! All my experiences I got in different jobs, next to the Apprentice-Ships and my steady curiosity in Tools and Technic, makes me look like a beginner, if I watch him. Than, I would be at his Level and could just think about, finding a new Job, only to stay as far away, as I can, from this bloke! Help, Help, Help.......
Dan, if you hate the chuck and the always fail you withing 12 months, why have you bought "five or six" DHP 485s? I know we can all get trapped in a "Battery Ecosystem", but "five or six"? Come on....
your meant to use the Makita handle with the drill when boring big holes to stop it breaking your wrist Soak the drill chuck in homemade penetrating oil over two days Then place drill bit in a vice, start on low torque and up it in stages as you go pulling on the drill towards you and the chuck should spin off the drill bit, Then clean up the chuck more penetrating oil wipe off then lightly oil, Just be careful when drill bit in a vice and you reverse the drill and pull to spin the chuck off the drill bit , the torque can spin drill out of your hand so do it gradually at your own risk but this has worked for me several times.
You can't find newer better chucks then that, not even from Duss, Fein, Mafell or Hilti, and Hilti are even crap compared to the one from Makita 458. If you can find some industrial longer models from Fein or Duss from the '60, '70, '80, '90s, those are better. And another two things, chucks with plastic are wey better both more reliable and also more friendly to stuff you work on. The plastic is made from HD polimers and glass fiber reinforced like the drill body. All metal chucks from Bosch, Makita, Hilti, DeWalt, etc. breack down, some faster some in 3 years, but the plastic ones, not all but most that are for the better drills last decades of abuse. And I choose only non percusion models, like DDF 458, 453, 456, 480, 487, that are more reliable from avoiding the percussion stress. For bricks yow don't realy need percussion if you use good drill bits with sharp metal carbides. And for concrete you use a rotary hammer, not a stupid percussion drill.
You could still replace the chuck on the old one. Just cut off most of the chuck with an angle grinder so you can take it off
I got the info I needed thank you for the review.
it is not really wondering that the first one you showed is wrecked. normally you should be forbidden to handle any electric tool!!!
The only problem in this tool is YOU
The Rohm chuck fitted to the 458 and other high end models is very strong and reliable....your video is misleading, there is no reason to suggest there is a weakness in this chuck.
@Daniel Azard
My review of this Clip and my newest Comment after watching it again.
The DDF/DHP481, which is the most powerful Battery-Drills of Makita, is a brushless one!
The DDF/DHP458 is brushed.
These two are the most powerful Drills in their 18V Battery-System until today.
Both, mentioned before and the DDF/DHP,451 which has three gears, is like the 458 brushed. It uses the same Coal-Brushes: CB440.
These three are delivered with a Side-Handle. In Powers, over 60 Nm`s, which all three produce, Side-Handles are necessary and sometimes even manditory in certain Countries.
Accident-Preventions ;-)
You can also drill into Wood with an Impact-Driver, but you are limitted with the use.
The connection between those 1/4 inch Bit-Drills and the 1/4 inch Drill-Chuck, are only save up onto a certain Diameter. Those Flat Drills, I mean.
Your other Wood-Drivers are better, that you show in the Clip. These ones you can use with an Impact Driver well.
But you should only use a Drill, for what it is meant for. That means an SDS-Plus, or SDS-Max-Drill is working in the SDS-Plus/SDS-Max Drill-Machine better,
than inside other Drill-Chucks. They will slip inside the Chucks, because of the Material they are made of and the surface of it.
You can abuse a Drill in different ways, for a different Material maybe, but you should know what you are doing than.
The results are mainly not good!
You don`t need to use the Hammer-Function for Wood in a Drill-Machine, unless you want to damage either the Drill, or the Material you Hammer-Drive into,
like you did. The Hammer-Function is not meant for drilling into Wood. Also not for Steel and Iron, or maybe Plastic-Glas, or every other Material, which does not need
the support of the Hammer-Drill Function. It is for Bricks and Concrete.This Material does need this Function, if the normal Drill-Function does not bring progress into the drilling-process.
But the Brick you drove into with an SDS-Plus Drill, does not really need the Hammer-Function. It is possible with the normal Drill-Function and the right, sharp Drill and a lot of feeling
for the Material, next to the Know-How, of what this Brick is made of. And especially what happens, if you fail. That is mainly the point, when you start to learn from your failures.
It is a question of attitude and knowledge, when you do things, with other things. Like, if you screw and unscrew a Pozi-Driver Screw-Head with a PH Driver-Bit.
Thats when you get sounds, like you are producing in the Clip, for instance. Pressure does not help in that case, then. The Driver-Bit will be damaged and the Screw is also suffering.
So in terms of an Impact-Driver, mainly you want to sink Screws into Wood with it , or use it for Metal-Screws, for Connections and tightening Materials, with high powers.
There are a lot of those cheap Drills and Driver-Bits out there and they are not a good choice in the long run, even if you can re-place them.
For softer Wood, they are a good alternative, but for harder Wood, they are not a good choice in my experience.
The DDF/DHP is a good Drill. If you know how and why you are using it. That is, why I bought it back then, for my private uses. I don`t need it as often, that a brushless makes sense. It has less power than the bruhless, but a lot of power, for what I use it for, when I need it. I worked with the DHP481 at my job, where a brushless Motor makes sense, if you drill wider Diameters into thick Woods for instance. It lasts longer, if you use it more often at the job. If you use Drills, you need ones, that are robust and won`t let you down, if you drill with them. They are made of quality and are centerd, but are expensive. If you have a low budget, or your customer, you also need to spend many times, buying a new drill than. It only hurts once in your pocket, but saves a lot of stress and problems, that will follow, if you save at the wrong end.
In your case, you need to overthink, if brainless and/or brushless is the same maybe, if I review your Clip?
If you wobble into Hard-Wood with the cheap Drills, you will get a result, like the one, you showed us.
Use it as Spare-Part, or put it into the Recycling-Process, called dump.
There might be black Editions of the 458 in the US.
But they are also brushless, never more and never less. ;-)
Stay save! :-)
painful to watch
Hi there,
are you really sure, that you know, what you are talking about and what you are doing with the DHP 458 there?
I don`t think you are!
Let me start with your discription headline. This is a BRUSHED Hammer Drill. The DHP 481 is a brushless one, which is the drill-driver, with the most power of the 18V - System.
So, you should correct your headline in favour of it!
Next, you are atleast wearing safety-shoes, so you won`t hurt yourself, when slipping off. The way you set it up, screams for failures and injury.
Your demonstration set up is a dangerous one with the 458. It is a very strong drill-driver and to minimize the risk of an injury, always use the side-handle,
which is delivered with it, when using bigger drills and bits. Read the instruction carefully therefore!
Not without a reason! The side-handle prevents the risk of an injury, because you can easily hurt your wrist and arm,
if you get stuck inside the material, you are intruding with it! Always fix the material tight, you are driving into, especially, if you are not experienced.
Your foot and your set up is not safe, when using it with higher power. This is the impression I have, watching you.
You seem to be over-excited, demonstrating it. This is called stage-fright. Not helpful, if you don`t know, what you are doing. And dangerous, too!
So, before you are working with it, check in which position the option-mode-switcher is. That way you sustain the life-time of your driver-bits.
Next, if you are unscrewing with it, you also need to put up pressure onto it, like when driving screws into your material.
That way, you will also have a much longer lifetime of your bits and avoid the annoying noise, you are producing with it.
You will be the joke on the construction-site, making that noise with it.
I am using the DHP 458 since 2013 and never had problem with the chuck, so I don`t see your point to it.
Looks like the drill stuck inside, is a cheap one. Means, it is made of a soft steel-quality. No wonder, it got stuck in it, when using a drill-driver with this high power.
Makita`s service did not put up that warning triangle without a reason. You may use it as a spare-part, if you need to repair your newer one. Otherwise, it is useless.
Keep it that way.
I usually do not criticise someone, who knows, what he is doing, but in your case, it seems to be necessary!
Please, for your own safety and for the next critics, who will watch this,take your review off. You are making a fool out of yourself!
There are a lot of negative folks here on YT, who won`t let a dry hair on you, when watching and commenting it.
Stay save and healthy. And practise more in a safe way with it. If you won`t hurt yourself, you will earn money, if you are a craftsman.
If not, you will not be able to do so. ;-)
@Mark Valentino Oops, I got something wrong in my comment before. I was multi-tasking and mixed you up with our specialist, who is responsable for this Clip. I corrected that. Sorry Mark, but I watched all his Clips from Makita Cordless Tools. He is a heavy one in his presentations. Hillarious and also frightenning to watch. I had a lot of Coyotees and also slapped my own head multiple times. Hard crap and slap to watch here. Where is my Helmet?!? It has an entertaining factor, in how not and please do not ever do that!?! My OMG`s didn`thelp during the time he released this Clip and the ones that followed. Is this, what endurance is, or simply stubborn? Some never learn, or had learned before repeating its own faults again, I see here. If one walks in a steady circle, he can save his way back at the same time, I guess. Where does this go from here, I keep asking myself? The answer knows only one. But who is he? Is it him, or am I not noticing something? Mmh, ....? I might be picky, but how much does he know of Drilling, Tools to drill with and Material, you can drive into? He will become an expert of accidents, caused by wrong use of Tools and Material. I might be over-reacting and I am to educated by four Professions, I was once educated in, but this guy is a burner! All my experiences I got in different jobs, next to the Apprentice-Ships and my steady curiosity in Tools and Technic, makes me look like a beginner, if I watch him. Than, I would be at his Level and could just think about, finding a new Job, only to stay as far away, as I can, from this bloke! Help, Help, Help.......
Dan, if you hate the chuck and the always fail you withing 12 months, why have you bought "five or six" DHP 485s? I know we can all get trapped in a "Battery Ecosystem", but "five or six"? Come on....
your meant to use the Makita handle with the drill when boring big holes to stop it breaking your wrist
Soak the drill chuck in homemade penetrating oil over two days
Then place drill bit in a vice, start on low torque and up it in stages as you go pulling on the drill towards you and the chuck should spin off the drill bit,
Then clean up the chuck more penetrating oil wipe off then lightly oil,
Just be careful when drill bit in a vice and you reverse the drill and pull to spin the chuck off the drill bit , the torque can spin drill out of your hand so do it gradually at your own risk but this has worked for me several times.
🤣 I think is funny, you guys have to find the joyment into it! My girl said it’s cute😆😆
Do not take seriously anyway!
I open mine
😂😂😂😂no words please stop
Thats not very good that the chuck "failed" Makita should have repaired or replaced the drill free of charge
please stop putting videos like this on youtube.. its dangerous because of your wrong usage and not knowing anything about your tools.....
Désolé, votre démonstration tourne aux ridicule. vous tremblez vous mettez une foret béton sds plus sur un mandrin de serrage classique.
boring