Great video!!! If you don't want to have to do this, then warm your engine up until you feel a little heat from the rocker boxes. Not sure why this works but I've never had to do this in 159,000 miles. A former district sales manager for Harley Davidson told me this 24 years ago and I've never had leaks. That man use to deliver Elvis' Harleys! He was a Blessing to me, for sure!
Well look at you go!! I told you a few times now that you could do this kind of work yourself...great job! Harley motors are what is considered John Deere technology as there is really nothing to them. Just air, fuel and compression to make them go. Yes...the lower breather gaskets suck to get off so good thinking to remove one of the rockers!
Thanks HD! This wasn't too difficult in theory, but there was that dollar figure in my head of what I paid for this bike, which which made it a bit nerve racking!
Did you use loctite on the rocker arm and breather bolts? I'm asking because I'm putting my rockers back in tomorrow and my Harley workshop book doesn't mention using loctite on the rocker or breather bolts ( maybe that's because the holes have a lot of oil in them) I'm hoping I can throw the rocker bolts back in and torque them without clearing the rocker bolt holes of oil, which is going to be a pain in the a**. Good video.
I didn't remember using threadlock on these, so I checked the factory service manual, and there is no mention of it, so don't use it. You ABSOLUTELY must clean the holes of oil as shown, with brake cleaner, and then compressed air to dry them out. If there is oil in those holes and you tighten down a bolt, guess what happens? Your cylinder will crack! That oil isn't going to compress, and all that force has to go somewhere. It's a very simple process to clean them out, use a rag to catch the goo.
Meticulous attention to detail. You remind me of how I do things on my cars/bikes. I work so slow and methodically my friends joke “if you were a factory tech, your family would go hungry.” 😄
I am about to swap out my rocker covers and rocker boxes for a wrinkle black set (my bike is a 2014 Fatboy Lo). I am fairly inclined mechanically but by no means a mechanic. My question to you…. Did your bike run properly after you completed this job? I have read horror stories of guys not aligning the rocker boxes correctly and the valve spring assemblies rubbing against them after instal. That worries me… so does getting the right t.d.c. for removing the rocker boxes and reinstalling them. I thought I would do one side at a time as I’m limited on space in my garage. Glad I bought a 3/8” Snapon torque wrench a few years ago with the torque angle feature. It’ll come in handy for this job.
Hey bud! Watch the video link I put in the description by Brad the Wizard. It will help tremendously. I watched it at least 3 times before diving in. I put 1,800 miles on my bike since doing this job and it's running great! You don't have to be 100% on TDC. As long as the tension is released and you can move the rocker arm back and forth and hear it click, you are good. As shown during reassembly, don't tighten the support plates down until you have all the bolts in, and you can move it around slightly and not force anything. I would definitely do both of them in the order shown. You need both covers off, so just git 'er done while in there. I'm not sure if you need the special low profile wrench on a Dyna, so check that. Research, plan, execute. You got this! Oh - If I were doing it again I would use assembly lube.
@@bluesriderDF thanks for this! I had actually watched that other fella’s video first. I have 3 saved in my faves folder to help with this job…. yours being one of them.👍🏼👍🏼. These vids along with my shop manual for torque specs should be all I need. That other fella used a dog-bone torque extension bar with his torque wrench. Do you know if that affects the torque values at all and if so, do you add or subtract torque? Does it bugger the torque angle/degree? I could just mark the bolts for the torque angle/degree but I bought a fancy Snapon torque wrench a few years ago that I’d like to use that built-in function. 😂
@beri232 If you use the torque extension adapter at 90ﾟthen you don't need to modify any values. However if you use it as an extension (making your wrench longer), then you need to account for that. There are torque conversion charts online if needed. It sounds like you are in good shape. Let me know how it goes!
Rocker box gaskets is as far as I have ever gone into an engine. If you can even call that going into an engine. I just wanted to fix the leak. I'm happy with the bike otherwise. Maybe one day I'll muster up the desire, courage and tools to do the work you're talking about, But that would have been way more more involved than I was prepared for right now.
@@bluesriderDF yeah it gets pricey but on a twincam 103 if its nearing 40k its probably time to do the cam chain tensioners and you were most of the way there by pulling the push rods. but pretty soon you'll know your bike inside and out and it will be your bike. rock on bro. thanks for the video. many people think they can't do this kind of service so.....good on you.
What? Cam chain tensioners are in the cam chest, not the rocket boxes. Same with the Oil pump and cam plate. And he has a stock exhaust. Why would you cam it and try to push that power out of a stock soda straw exhaust. Great video
Yea you have to give it time to reach but don’t think I would at any higher rpm’s it’s ticking for a reason metal on metal if anything maybe pull the plugs out and just cycle it few times but no way at higher rpm’s
Great video!!! If you don't want to have to do this, then warm your engine up until you feel a little heat from the rocker boxes. Not sure why this works but I've never had to do this in 159,000 miles. A former district sales manager for Harley Davidson told me this 24 years ago and I've never had leaks. That man use to deliver Elvis' Harleys! He was a Blessing to me, for sure!
Well look at you go!! I told you a few times now that you could do this kind of work yourself...great job! Harley motors are what is considered John Deere technology as there is really nothing to them. Just air, fuel and compression to make them go. Yes...the lower breather gaskets suck to get off so good thinking to remove one of the rockers!
Thanks HD! This wasn't too difficult in theory, but there was that dollar figure in my head of what I paid for this bike, which which made it a bit nerve racking!
This is amazing work and satisfying to watch.
Wow, thanks! I'm happy to say it was a success, everything is nice and dry. I love this bike!
Iv waited a long time for you to post a video and I am not disappointed :D
Wow, thanks bud!!! There was definitely some pucker factor on that one!
That must of been a long night. I am going to use a little assembly lube and squirt some oil like Brad did. Thank you for clarification on tools.
It was a long job!! So glad I figured it out before bedtime or I wouldn't have slept very much. Def use the lube 👍
Nice job. Well documented along the way.
Thank you! I don't like going inside the engine.
Did you use loctite on the rocker arm and breather bolts? I'm asking because I'm putting my rockers back in tomorrow and my Harley workshop book doesn't mention using loctite on the rocker or breather bolts ( maybe that's because the holes have a lot of oil in them) I'm hoping I can throw the rocker bolts back in and torque them without clearing the rocker bolt holes of oil, which is going to be a pain in the a**. Good video.
I didn't remember using threadlock on these, so I checked the factory service manual, and there is no mention of it, so don't use it. You ABSOLUTELY must clean the holes of oil as shown, with brake cleaner, and then compressed air to dry them out. If there is oil in those holes and you tighten down a bolt, guess what happens? Your cylinder will crack! That oil isn't going to compress, and all that force has to go somewhere. It's a very simple process to clean them out, use a rag to catch the goo.
Thank you for making this video.
Glad to help, thanks for posting!
Meticulous attention to detail. You remind me of how I do things on my cars/bikes. I work so slow and methodically my friends joke “if you were a factory tech, your family would go hungry.” 😄
LOL, thank you!
Thanks for the video. Doing research in preparation to doing mine. My rear gasket is leaking.
Mine's been good ever since doing the job. Just take your time, use the right tools and torque settings and you should be good.
I am about to swap out my rocker covers and rocker boxes for a wrinkle black set (my bike is a 2014 Fatboy Lo). I am fairly inclined mechanically but by no means a mechanic. My question to you…. Did your bike run properly after you completed this job? I have read horror stories of guys not aligning the rocker boxes correctly and the valve spring assemblies rubbing against them after instal. That worries me… so does getting the right t.d.c. for removing the rocker boxes and reinstalling them. I thought I would do one side at a time as I’m limited on space in my garage. Glad I bought a 3/8” Snapon torque wrench a few years ago with the torque angle feature. It’ll come in handy for this job.
Hey bud! Watch the video link I put in the description by Brad the Wizard. It will help tremendously. I watched it at least 3 times before diving in. I put 1,800 miles on my bike since doing this job and it's running great! You don't have to be 100% on TDC. As long as the tension is released and you can move the rocker arm back and forth and hear it click, you are good. As shown during reassembly, don't tighten the support plates down until you have all the bolts in, and you can move it around slightly and not force anything. I would definitely do both of them in the order shown. You need both covers off, so just git 'er done while in there. I'm not sure if you need the special low profile wrench on a Dyna, so check that. Research, plan, execute. You got this!
Oh - If I were doing it again I would use assembly lube.
@@bluesriderDF thanks for this! I had actually watched that other fella’s video first. I have 3 saved in my faves folder to help with this job…. yours being one of them.👍🏼👍🏼. These vids along with my shop manual for torque specs should be all I need. That other fella used a dog-bone torque extension bar with his torque wrench. Do you know if that affects the torque values at all and if so, do you add or subtract torque? Does it bugger the torque angle/degree? I could just mark the bolts for the torque angle/degree but I bought a fancy Snapon torque wrench a few years ago that I’d like to use that built-in function. 😂
@beri232 If you use the torque extension adapter at 90ﾟthen you don't need to modify any values. However if you use it as an extension (making your wrench longer), then you need to account for that. There are torque conversion charts online if needed. It sounds like you are in good shape. Let me know how it goes!
Good video. Thanks for sharing it
good job!!
Thank you! I was nervous about doing it but it came out well.
great video
Thank you. That's as far into an engine as I am comfortable going. And I wasn't really comfortable. 🥵
if your in there already why didn't you do cam chain tensioners and rocker lockers. Maybe even oil pump and cam plate?
Rocker box gaskets is as far as I have ever gone into an engine. If you can even call that going into an engine. I just wanted to fix the leak. I'm happy with the bike otherwise. Maybe one day I'll muster up the desire, courage and tools to do the work you're talking about, But that would have been way more more involved than I was prepared for right now.
@@bluesriderDF yeah it gets pricey but on a twincam 103 if its nearing 40k its probably time to do the cam chain tensioners and you were most of the way there by pulling the push rods. but pretty soon you'll know your bike inside and out and it will be your bike. rock on bro. thanks for the video. many people think they can't do this kind of service so.....good on you.
What? Cam chain tensioners are in the cam chest, not the rocket boxes. Same with the Oil pump and cam plate. And he has a stock exhaust. Why would you cam it and try to push that power out of a stock soda straw exhaust. Great video
@@davidfellows6250yea really the pushrods are the most tedious other than going back together
💯
Why do both if only the rear is leaking?
It's up to you, but if one is leaking, is the other far behind? Once you have it torn down to do one, it's just a little extra labor to do the other.
Yea you have to give it time to reach but don’t think I would at any higher rpm’s it’s ticking for a reason metal on metal if anything maybe pull the plugs out and just cycle it few times but no way at higher rpm’s
It's been all good ever since that day.
Thanks, explained perfectly!!
Thanks! I'm always nervous doing a job like that, but it's been nice and dry ever since.
@@bluesriderDF Thanks god, i only have to replace the upper gasket from front cylindre. But first wait for seasonend
@@konradchrist7205 I'd recommend you do them both.
Yes, will do
Make it a habit to assemble everything with assembly oil so it doesn’t run without lubrication…
Great video
Thanks bud!
This helped me a lot. Thanks again.
@@romesyoutubechannel5356 Happy to help!