How to make your ASTROphotography POP - Fast!
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- In this tutorial we cover the simple steps to really making your astrophotography stand out and look great!
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If you want to see another type of camera tutorial, drop a comment and let me know!
Lol how red is my face when I enter the room through the door!? haha wow 0:04
excellent video Mark, very helpful
Yeah because your alter ego self was mad about you not making a tutorial video in 4 months 😂
11/10 red
lol
The before photo still blows my mind. Even with longer exposures I rarely see people getting raw images like that
for real
concise quick and to the point...I loved this ...you said all you needed to say in 6 minutes...everyone else takes 20 ....great tutorial
Cheers buddy! I always try to keep them as quick as possible. I hate when people just freely hum and haa... gotta respect the audience's time :)
@@MarkHarrison4 will you run thru a quick radial filter adjustment for the Milky Way?
Well im 75 and cant follow it as fast as he is saying it its a pain to keep having to pause all the time
Maybe if you guys slow down a bit you might make it to 75 also
Most instructional videos on youtube remind me of looking up recipes online where you have the entire life story of the person writing the article before you get to what's actually in it. This was the opposite, great pace and a lot of value. I'm far from a novice shooter and I took away a lot from this. Love it!
ua-cam.com/video/urS2tSMAfn8/v-deo.htmlsi=VuEO3WQudwTkdgCq
The 4 main tips:
1.
Use a wide angle lense
2.
Keep the horizon in line in the shot
3.
Try to keep the ISO at 3200 or below
4.
Use the 500 rule for shutter speed
500 rule:
500 / lens size (mm full frame equivalent) = seconds of capture before you get before you see star trails.
e.g 500 / 28 = 17.8s exposure
However I've got a Canon 600D and 7D which aren't full frame so need to convert from APS-C to the full frame equivalent.
So 28 * 1.6 = 44.8mm
500 / 44.8mm = 11.16s
thxx
@@adriantiamson8063 I have a 450D, finding out how to convert for a crop sensor was like a needle in a haystack, thanks for the comment.
double thanks :)
You only need to convert to the full-frame equivalent if you're using an EF lens on a crop body. EF-S lens at 28mm is the same as 17mm EF lens on a crop sensor.
If you're going for APS-C, I think it would be worth mentioning, that the APS-C should be below 1600. So like somewhere between base iso and 1600 because ... Yeah, for my Canon EOS 600D / Rebel T3i 3200 is way too much (for astro photography) and noise reduction is a pain (at least for me). ^^
Literally one of the best night photography tutorials ever!! Keep up the good work man!
Thanks so much for that, really appreciate it!
To make it easy, if you use crop sensor, its a 300 rule :D
or a 250 rule for MFT
Thanks bro didn’t know tbat
Tutorial was fast, comprehensive and easy to understand... something about other youtubers i dislike is that they like to lowkey brag about how good they are by gushing indiscriminately in their tutorials to make it seem like they have a fountain of knowledge in them
Respect :)
I can't stand long tutorials
Thanks for this , all the tutorials I've watched previously, the image they were starting with was more like what I want to end up with, the first picture you edited are what my milky way shots generally look like so this video has been the most helpful.
i looooooved this tutorial. 2 weeks ago was the first attempt ever to shoot a nightsky and to try to get the milky way. your tutorial brought so much out of my picture i was blown away. thank you
Glad it helped!
The video was already a detailed one, but you gave more details in the comments... Hats off manh... Really glad that i came accross this video.
Just seen this. Hands down the best tutorial video. Concise, to the point and with techniques not shown by anyone else I have found. Top work! Thanks
Milky way season starting soon, such a great timing for this video. Thanks for the tips Mark! You are a star 💕
My pleasure, stoked that you're going to be shooting the milky way soon !
Thanks for the tutorial;
Learning how to use your camera reduces or eliminates your need for software.
Film was the greatest learning curve ever.
Holy crap, this guide is f*cking awesome! Always thought my photos were shit, turns out i just needed to learn a few tricks! And as previously stated, short and concise. Very nice work Mark!
The 500 rule is true for full frame sensor, for APS-C the rule to aply is 350/focal lenght :)
Cheers for that update, I shoulda mentioned that
Thanks Mark, I've always been more stuck on astro photos
Rangenoah glad it helped!
Brilliant tutorial. Thanks very much.
great tutorial . i never knew about the new brush and masking feature. so good
Nice tutorial; btw the 500 rules is valid for Full frame only and it is possible to go at higher ISO by stacking photos
Noted! true I was using the 500 rule for cropped sensors too but that doesn't make sense, cheers!
It's valid for the equivalent focal length. On full frame it just happens to be the easiest one because your number to calculate is on the lens
@@Hypekickerz thanks for confirming, this is exactly what I thought
The 500 rule works only with full frame sensors. With APS-C sensors you have to divide the result by the crop factor to get the correct number of sec. Since most entry DSLR comes with an APS-C sensor it would be nice to specify it
Great tutorial if you don't mind the milky way not actually looking what it looks like (personally not my preferred style, but it does look impressive), but don't forget that for above ISO 800 Sony Alpha cameras are ISO invariant so it doesn't matter what you choose to use as edits in post will ALWAYS produce the exact same noise figure.
Nice! Quick, clear, concise. Thumbs up & thanks, I've learned a few things.
Thanks for making this. Learned something new with the colorizing tip, going to have to revisit my old milky way photos and try it out!
Adventures with Joe cheers Joe! I was stoked when I found that out too
Absolutly loved this video! I appreciate the direct step by step. It was just the right pace and super information. Especially for someone like me who has never done it before.
On APS-C Sensors it‘s better to use the 300 Rule because of the crop factor of 1.6 or 1.5, depending on camera brand… On my Canon, when using the 500 Rule with my 16mm, I get first signs of star trails.
I really enjoy your Tutorials and wanted to thank you for them. They always motivate me to go out and take some photos :D
Thanks a lot man, it's comments like these that really make me want to keep creating them. Cheers!
I've seen tons of tutorial but this is the best! Thanks a lot!
Great video!! Exactly what I was looking for, no stacking BS.
Absolutely love your videos because they're so precise and to the point and there's no waffling at all! I'm currently in Canada so I'm hoping to be able to get some cool star shots away from all the light pollution here :D
Thank you Allie! Long and annoying tutorials are a pet peeve of mine, so I to make mine as concise as possible. Good luck getting some star shots, i'm sure you'll do great!
Very quick and effective tutorial!
I really enjoyed seeing this tutorial. Have been shooting the Milky Way the past few months a lot and needed a new way to edit my images...Thank you!
Kathys Outdoor Adventures cheers :)
Wonderful video! Very crisp. You covered very well in five minutes what other videos try and cover in 30 minutes
Scott Diamond really appreciate that Scott. It’s my goal to make really concise videos, I believe people’s time is valuable. Long tutorials really bother me haha.
Amazing, I learned so many tools! Thanks man
Glad to hear it!
Thank you so much! I have just started to learn about astrophotography! this is perfect for editing!
Awesome vid! Thanks for keeping it simple. Do you do all of these adjustments before photo-stacking as well? or is this only for a non-stacked image
WOW. you explained what you did and how you did it. Thank you for this.
My pleasure :)
Mate this was terrific
Thanks!
A little tutorial feedback : Please choose a font thats easier to the eye and aesthetic enough so even when you read them, its easier to take it in. Its kinda related to design but i wont go into that (you can look it up) Thats about it really. Loved the tutorial other than that. Subscribed and Liked!
Great tutorial. Fast, effective and to the point. Thanks!
Cheers!
Hi Mark, what is the level, or what is the Photoshop version do you use here? Do I need to download it right from my computer? What is the name of the version that you use here? Please give as much info as you can. What do I type to find it? Thank you so much
Does the milky way only look as massive as that when seen from America? I can just about shoot it in England but it is always a long faint strip with none of those colours
I hate everyone who adds additional colour to astronomical pictures. With all my heart. Correct curves all you want, but adding extra red where you feel like it is a sin.
And also people who don't credit anyone co producing their video + music credits..
Who cares what u like ?
I agree. I really try to stay away from doing this with any astrophotography I do. When I share a photo with my mother, the first thing she asks me is "touched up? or as is?"
Shooting the milky way all over the country, I find that depending on the location you are at, the atmosphere varies drastically. Each place I've gone has provided different natural astronomical colors. East coast of the US has always shown deeper blues for me, where as the west coast has always come out more teal.
Altering the colors really takes away the uniqueness of the shot location in my opinion.
It only bothers me if it’s lied about or not disclosed but if it is mentioned that the colors have been altered I say let let the photographer have their creative freedom
Awesome tutorial, thanks!
No worries!
Really nice job! A crisp workflow with great results! Thank you
Thanks Chris!
Excellent! Exactly what I was looking for!! Quick and to the point 👌
The unedited raw file itself has quite a lot of information, so you have so many adjustment options left in lightroom. But for people like us who has cropped sensor cameras, the results are not that good
daaaa hell.!!! been looking for a tutorial like this since long time and you got me so easy and clear.!! buddy you are great.!!
thanks Eduardo!
As an aspiring astrophotographer this video is so helpful. Thank you! I have a Sony A7iii and was considering getting it astromodified. What would you recommend? I have full spectrum or Ha mods to consider, which is "better" for milky way shots?
This was really useful - thanks very much.
To the point, quick and simple! Helped a lot, thanks!!
Great tutorial! There must have been an update which changed the “masking” interface because I don’t see it in LR 2020. I’d like to try the technique you used by holding down the “alt” key and sliding the “masking” bar but I can’t figure out how. Do you know where it may be hidden?
You’re the best! Enjoyed the vid! Love you
Dayton M cheers! 🙌🙌🙏
Great job and love that your a Sony user as well
Thanks man! I actually only own the rx100iv in the sony series... these were my friends photos.I need to get the A7iii though
*cries in Nikon*
@@MarkHarrison4 Maybe after tomorrow's announcement you can get a new A7Siii.
I've been shooting with a astro-modified A7S and love it.
I had to pause the video to say thank you! Thank you for dropping all those keys at once.....inspired me to continue. 🙏 #gracias......now back to the vid
really appreciated!
🙏🙏
Nice and simple
Wait. When does it stop being a photo? When you added the red that became too much no? It's no longer an improvement on the original but an image that doesn't exist.
Fantastic video! 😍
I wanna grab my Camera this night and shoot some Stars 🌠
I realy enjoy this kind of videos!! Stay like this 🤗
Glad you found it helpful! Got another lightroom video coming up this week I think you'll enjoy
Such an amazing tutorial!!
Hi Mark. Such an awesome video... Thank you. And this image starts so clean. Do you mind me asking what camera and lens combination was used for the shots you edit ? I would think an A7S or an A7II may be ? Thanks for all the great tips in your excellent video.
Came here for tips on how to edit my photos. Wish I had seen your tips first! I did everything wrong haha!
Lana Dare better late than never! Did you see the other tutorials?
@@MarkHarrison4 I will check them out, thanks! :)
Hei Mark, really awesome video tutorial! A question: where is that place with mountain and lake at 0:24? I want to be there one day, haha
Perfect tut man
Appreciate it pal
simple and effective tutorial! thanks for sharing!
This is so awesome! I am already learning so much! I am trying to learn how to edit my astrophotography that I've taken over the last couple of months. I have a question, do you by chance have this tutorial in writing?
Is there an iOS app that makes all these things automatically or at least let you do it without going through a pc
"Try to keep ISO below 3200"
*laughs in a7siii*
Unreal 🔥
Brilliant video thanks
you got any tips for astrophotography on phones and how to edit them?
Cool! Very helpful tutorial. Thanks!
Ciele Cervania my pleasure!
Amazing tutorial! Well done!
Best damn quick guide for editing i've seen so far. This is a keeper for sure!!!
Great, thanks for that tutorial !
U are the best man! very thx !
Na Marra thanks!
Thanks for this video, i just started into astrophotography taking deep sky objects and needed to find a way to process. This was the ticket again thanks....to bad i can't load a photo here lol
cheers dude!! great!
Thanks !!! I have to try it !
Do I need to stack few images or one image is enough to get a mesmerizing result ?
Mugiwara no Tom one does the trick, usually. Several exposures are handy for foreground/midground/sky, but you need to keep in mind that the sky keeps moving.
Yea one is usually enough
If you have a mac then starry landscape stacker is absolutely amazing. Load 10 shots into it, it finds the sky. Press align and save and bobs your uncle. In under 1 minute you have and incredibly sharp, clean, noise free image.
Hello,. Excellent tutorial. Question. I am stacking 9 images. All images are 5504 x 8256. When stacked image created it is 2752 x 4168. Any idea why?
New sub.Straight forward videos all around!
Amrita Rampersad thanks!! Glad they can help :)
Fantastic!!!!
Thank you so much for the tutorial! :D
Very cool tutorial
Great, which software you used for Milkyway editing
Awesome quick tutorial, to the point!
Is the trick to put the focus ring to infinite and then dial it back a bit? Whenever I set it to infinite the stars are a little blurry. (shutter speed is fine)
Mike Rosoft yea typically my lenses are always clear when rolled out completely one way... you just have a too keep taking samples with a super high ISO to get a focused photo
Rock steady tripod bolted to a large rock. :) If you have live-view, then use that to focus. Find a bright star and focus on that. On some cameras, you can enlarge the image electronically.
Use a shutter delay or cable to fire the shot. Check the image and refocus as required. Don't stand close to the tripod when taking the photos. Enlarge the test-shots to the maximum. The stars should be pin sharp. Be prepared to spend some time getting the focus perfect.
Also, when using a tripod, I'm told its good to have VR switched off.
Excellent, thank you
Awesome tutorial. Normally I fall asleep but this was just so intriguing. Glad you did it fast paced. As an amateur I got sad learning that people add colors and fake the picture a bit (thought it was mostly adjusting contrast) but now I know, my whole life is a lie.
hahaha, well not you're entire life! If you have the absolute best conditions, for example an amzing camera and you're in the atacama desert in Chile (One of the Highest dryest places on earth, many countries star observatories are there)... Then you'll get these colours naturally. Remember our eye can't see this regardless, so even with the camera taking a "long exposure" it's all a sort of manipulation anyway.
Awesome. Solid review!
Thanks! Glad it helped :)
Great video 👊
Hi Mark. I have a problem wenn i try to follow your steps at 2:58 where you do a new brush, bring down the shadows and up the flow to paint the dark areas of the milky way to increase the contrast. As i do this new brush and start painting over the dark areas of the Milky way, my brush is not increasing the contrast but instead is drawing white ... Any idea what am i doing wrong?
Use NPF rule using Camera model (PhotoPills Spotstars) not 500 rule, Yes a Sony A7 Mark 2 and above are ISO invariant so a shot from ISO 800 to 51200 will have the same noise level (very low) and from 50 to 640 will have more noise due to in camera processing A to D. A7RM2/3 and new A7M3 have bright monitoring (like night vision for framing). Canon and Nikon top out at 6400 and yes are noisier above that. If shooting within a lit parking with a dark sky or with a cityscape in foreground (very clear and cold night to reduce sky glow) you would shoot at 800 to tame highlights and clarity but if in the very dark you can shoot as high as 51200 for shadow detail/color (never had to go that high) but in post you slide exposure down for high iso and up for a low iso shot but it is the shadow and black slider also in tone curve medium contrast that will bring everything out. I can shoot at skyglow with MW in it at 3200 (to see MW on LCD) but lower exposure in post to get the drifty clouds below but above city bright lights all with a SEL1224G f/4 lens at 6 seconds for spot sharp stars not going 42 seconds. All lens and camera combo are different due to your camera pixel height. But being the king of low noise and brightness at night is the A7S even with f/4 lenses, Really no need to go faster because even some 1.8 and 2.8 lenses have to be dialed down to get rid of coma. For a lot of sky and small MW center without doing a pano use the Voigtlander 10mm f/5.6 gathers more light with longer SS making up for the 5.6 and even if have to use a step or two more ISO noise never increases. AND AND my A7S is still the same price I paid 5 years ago, can you say that about yours, YES 12MP but even a crop of 50% is just as sharp as a 43 MP camera. Just rent one you will never ever go back, save your pennies for the A7SM3 this October the last camera you will ever need for MW shooting and never need a costly f/2.8 lens ever!!!! Also on camera apps M2 and below and new intervalometer with new firmware on M3's on camera.
Echo Auxgen I don’t want to be an arse here but I had a lot of difficulty understanding this post. That’s a pity because it sounds like you have some great information to share. With your comment about ISO, I remember there was a thing with Canon cameras where ISO 160 had less noise than 100. Are you saying that there are similar quirks with Sony? I have an A7r Mk I. Can you advise me on using it for Astro please?
@@thethirdman225 The A7RM1 is not ISO Invariant only M2 and above but great results can be had. What I am saying is there is a ISO range where the noise level does not change just the darkness/brightness level of the shot. For example I am shooting in a bright area lights glowing and foreground lit up but the sky has some glow to it but if you increase the ISO you will see the MW but lights and foreground will be blown out. So you just reduce the ISO and keep SS short enough for star trailing (12mm, f4 @ 25.05 seconds or 12.52 sec for accurate for A7M3), this will reduce blown out lights/brights. But in post you just up exposure to see the MW but also up shadows/darks but lower highlights/whites and in lightroom in Tone Curve use medium contrast and adjust the the same (just play with sliders). First do a graduated filter pulled down to lower temp (blueur)/noise. You can bring out more with the radial filter (inverted) elongated around the MW using contrast/shadow/blacks/noise down and exposure/lights/highlights up increase temp to bring out color in that circle decreasing saturation but increasing vibrance some. Then a small adjustment brush lowering contrast/shadow/temp a little you want a little darker to bring out the pegasus wings but not too sharp.
I started with the A7S and it was awesome, you can do the same with A7R because you can reach higher ISO than Nikon/Canon also getting a cleaner image, just use NR when taking the shot. To reduce noise first use denoise AI (after LR adjustments) at photo edit in then on return do more of the same above.
One last thing if in a bright area but dark sky use Aperture mode set to widest Aperture (f/4 is fine) and adjust ISO for SS (NPF rule)
it will be the same if in manual mode and turn on zebra to reduce brightness by adjusting +/- dial.
www.edgenauxsphotography.org/Portfolio/Jekyll-Island/i-GxXkwNj/A
also you can use PlayMemories on camera app "Digital Filter" on M2 and below Sony Alpha models only
www.edgenauxsphotography.org/Portfolio/Cedar-Key/i-DkqKczv/A
@@echoauxgen Thank you. Not sure I fully understand yet but I'm sure the links you provided will make up for it. Should I have my A7r set up to take a dark frame?
@@thethirdman225 If you mean NR Yes turn it on all you are doing doubling a single shot time. I even have it on doing MW Panos, Set for 10 sec.shot but total time 20 sec.. Too much work for me to do stacking. Only early (February) in the year are you rushed for time! But June and after it is an all night long shoot and sunrise shooting to boot. Get the SEL1224G no coma and shoot at 12mm or the APS-C SEL1018 in full frame at 12mm both for the ultra wide BUT the SEL1635Z is awesome also no coma. A 2.8 lens is expensive but the sonys have better noise control at higher ISO so you do not need to spend more the best deal going. not cheap just great value at a low price.
Echo Auxgen Okay, once again, thanks. It’s starting to make sense. I’m not likely to buy any new lenses for some time and if I do, it will most likely be an old OM Zuiko 24mm f/2. I use Zuiko legacy lenses almost exclusively because I know them very well (the only odd ones being a Canon 300 mm and a Nikkor 105). I recognise that there are a lot of advantages to new designs (though these new 50mm f/1.4s that cost $1000 and weight 1 kg are a total mystery to me) but I’m happy with what I have.
Thank you Sir. Appreciated.
Great tutorial, thank you!
Glad it helped Veronica!
500 rule is for full-frame camera sensors, gotta convert for APS-C.
Maestro Agnew and how ?
Kampf Ukelei The equation is this: (500 / focal length) / crop factor
So with a cropped sensor that has a crop factor of 1.5 and focal length of 18mm then the equation would be:
(500 / 18) / 1.5 = 18 seconds
Maestro Agnew ahh yes now i get it thank you very much
Kampf Ukelei Welcome! 😎
Nice, nice, nice - about to shoot some stars with starguider, and your post will be very handy!
I know it's been a while since you posted this video, , but, how do you deal with the orange-ish tone from light pollution? Im using a Li-Po filter and it does reduce the orange glow, but it does not eliminate. Also, tried using stacking and still leaves some unwanted glow .
Yea it has been awhile haha, it's all good though! I typically just correct it in post with the auto white balance correcter tool thingy. Your solutions sound better than mine though haha
Great video Mark! Danke! :-)
Thanks mate 🎉
Cheers!
Liked that, thank you