Plumber here, can't believe those two things were all that was wrong. There's a lot of code in plumbing and to DIY it and only have two things wrong is quite an accomplishment. Good for you!
I think you should be pretty proud of what you accomplished. The failed inspection points are things you have now learned and will be useful to you in the future. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yes, and it's really great to be aware of the issue now, rather than in the future when you have it all walked up and causing damage. Learning through mistakes
I give you a thumbs up for posting this video because you were willing to show where you made mistakes so others could learn. It shows strong character.
As a retired plumber and plumbing inspector I think you did a pretty good job as DIY. I will make a few comments in a constructive way. Every where has different rules. Also, not all plumbing inspectors are created equal. Most are very good. The few others depending on there training can be pretty bad. Where I worked the 4” cast below grade would remain the full size thru the floor with a 4” clean out above the slab and then it could be reduced to 3” to pick up what’s above. This can all be done in plastic. The fernco is an approved fitting so I wouldn’t have a problem with it. The powder room w.c requires a vent as water flowing past the fixture could siphon the water from the bowl. We call this indirect siphonage. In a small buildings it may not siphon but multi floor buildings it can. Where I worked that code didn’t have 2 sets of rules. The vent required for the w.c. in the powder room can be connected to the horizontal piece of 3”pipe just after the 90 degree elbow. That vent can the tie into other vents close by as long as it is above the flood level rim of the fixture it is tying into. You may have to increase the vent size after the WC vent is added. This way the plumbing downstream of the WC vent could remain. Less work. The closer the vent is to a fixture the better. Be careful where you drill holes thru the floor joists. Usually the building inspector is looking at that. The kitchen sink drain appears to be in a outside wall. Depending where you are if there’s a chance of freezing the drain should be protected with ridgid styrofoam.It works well in these situations. Good luck with the changes and hopefully you get it passed. At the end of the day you want the plumbing to work with no problems. In most situations if there’s a problem it’s usually discovered after the fixtures are connected. It then becomes a nightmare as the building is complete. That’s why the rough in inspection is so important. It may seem some of the details are a waste of time but from experience it’s worth it. Lastly, part of the rough in inspection usually requires that all the drains, waste and vents be filled up with water to check for leaks. Most plumbers hate doing it but it’s worth it.
@@Lewdacris916 In my previous post I stated that I have no problem with fernco fittings. I checked their website. They are certified by many recognized agencies. If properly installed there is no problem with leakage. My question is if your going from cast iron to plastic what type of connection would be acceptable or better. Modern buildings that have cast iron drains, waste and vents have thousands of mechanical joint couplings connecting plain end cast iron pipe and fittings. Similar to Fernco. They have a rubber gasket surround by a stainless steel clamp. Once installed the DWV is filled up with water and checked for leaks. Any connection can leak. That’s why plumbers test the plumbing to avoid problems. Still there will always be a few untested joints. It’s not a perfect world. Connecting older existing plumbing to newer products can be a challenge. There’s a lot of certified products out there to deal with this. I understand there are jurisdictions that don’t allow them. (Fernco) Where I have worked they are allowed.
If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning. As a former DIY'er who then became a professional, this is how you become better. Your mistakes were relatively minor, if not annoying, and you should be proud of what you accomplished. Municipal inspectors are paid to do what they do, and even professionals fail inspections from time to time.
For anyone who does this, that 4 inch pipe needs to be brought up above the floor full 4 inch to the cleanout tee. You can then reduce to 3 inch above the floor. The reason for this is there is difficult to properly clean out that 4 inch pipe below the ground should it become plugged with only a 3 inch cleanout opening as access.
Your humility got a sub from me. This is incredibly helpful information. Pat yourself on the back. A lot of people just think of doing something like this their whole life. They never actually get to doing it! 👏
It takes a lot of effort to do your own plumbing, kudos for that. It takes lot of guts to make a video about your mistakes and put it on the internet for others to learn from, hats off to you for that.
Great job - sorry about the do-over for the powder room. I failed inspection on a two-sink vanity because I had the vent just a little too high, but a simple fix. Keep DIYing my friend! Live & learn, part of the reward of DIYing.
@@CoopyKat in the real estate listings they're usually called a "half bath" (missing the half where you actually bathe!) but in the Mid-Atlantic where I live I've always heard them referred to as powder rooms. No one here would walk into Benjamin Moore and say "I want a fun and adventurous color for my half bath." What's the more familiar term where you live?
I give you kudos for doing it yourself and I like how you told the plumbers to leave you alone because you're a do-it-yourselfer and you know you made mistakes
PEX is flexible, don't use it like copper with constant elbows and fittings. Instead just bend it to where it needs to go - your route will be a little different, since you need gradual bends, but you reduce points of failure and pressure drops.
@@timmattle4730Warm it up a little next time. Warm not hot, i.e. as hot as you are able to still hold it without burning yourself. A small amount of flattening won't significantly harm anything - certainly less than a fitting would. An actual kink in the line though is no good. Also, bend it slowly into the brace.
@@timmattle4730 You can use the heat gun on high if you keep it moving. Test the pipe frequently with your hand to see how hot it is. When it gets to just barely burning hot it's very flexible and can handle bending, but it will not permanently change shape. If you do need to permanently change shape you have to heat it a little hotter than that but be very cautious because it kinks very easily at those high temperatures. But remember to bend it slowly give it a chance to relax as you bend it. One of these days I should make a video on how PEX-B handles heat and bending. All the videos are I've found are about PEX-A but PEX-B is more forgiving than people realize.
had my shower flow back up because pex was installed from the shower valve down to the faucet, apparently the inner diameter is smaller than copper and that caused enough flow restriction to cause my showerhead to be the overflow lol
@@elaw123idk about that It sounds like the shower valve was installed upside down not shower up the little bit of difference in diameter is not going to make the water go up that high
Your work is professional and meticulous. I saw it in my house, which you helped me complete. I was hoping that you would work on my second house, but unfortunately you are busy.
This is such a solid and comprehensive explanation for a DIYer to post a video of himself failing on somethings you're clearing very passionate about. It is got me thinking. You got to know how much skill goes into this project. I hope at the end you know how hard it was to get done and how much better its going to get for your next project. I can't wait to see this old house pass its final inspection. Great job!
Awesome Video. You always learn your lesson when you have to spend your own money amd energy reworking something. Luckily the inspector didn't call you on all those medium turn 90's and San T's. Our inspectors would make us cut'em out. Good job on this video.
It's commendable that you're willing to share a video of your failures. I see that you've also included one where you failed an ELECTRICAL inspection too. I hate to be the one to tell you this but add one more egregious omission. You'd fail a rough in framing inspection as well. You can't notch out the TOP of a rafter leaving the bulk to rest against a plate. Use a stringer or better yet, joist hangers. I applaud your energy and willlingness to learn skills but this is why people in the trades have to serve apprenticeships over time to learn how to do these things. Over time, you get better.
Speaking as a retired home inspector that has renovated several home, the inspector has good points. I look to books like Ugly's (for electrical) and Google to help me. One day someone will thank you for keeping a book of pictures of your renovations for the benefit of future owners.
That’s exactly how you learn you make a mistake and then you fix it and The people that say they never make a mistake are usually the people that never do anything remember that ! you did a great job!!
DIY is knowing how to do the specific tasks correctly. Knowing the decades or more of theory behind every trade and inspector.....is not so easy to get right every time. Great of you to share. Cheers.
Very helpful. One suggestion is to add accessible clean outs to all low slope sections of the kitchen drain. Stuff like coffee grounds and cooking grease will accumulate there and must be mechanically removed.
@@nonyafkinbznes1420 Agreed. Although would never hurt to add a clean-out now that the house is already stripped to the bones anyway, no one in my family has ever put food or grease down the drain in the 32 years I've been alive (we collect grease in old soup cans and use paper towels to wipe pans out before washing them out, then toss both towels and grease can in the trash) and we've never once had a drain clog issue.
Nice work dude. Even pros fail inspections. Nothing to worry over. For the horizontal nail plates, im pretty sure its because of crown and base mouldings.
I DYI quite a few things but I don't think I would try plumbing an entire house unless I had a plumber approved plan to follow. Kudos to you for giving it a try.
Kudos! Don’t take the failure too much to heart. The end game is to avoid nasty issues later in the finished house. I’m also a DIY guy and my feeling is I do the best I can up front and trust the inspector to do his/her job professionally. If it’s wrong it’s not in anybody’s best interest to just hide it behind the drywall. 😏 🙌🏻
The reason why they want the big plates on horizontal pipes is to protect from nails and pins going into pipes when you install baseboard trim and any trim you may install on the top of your walls.
When I built my house, I hired a "licensed plumber". He racked up 26 "exceptions" in the first rough inspection. 18 on the second... And I fired him before the third inspection!!! I ended up paying a friend to come up from Alabama to help me do the plumbing after ripping out EVERYTHING the plumber did. You got dinged for a missed vent (could happen to the best) and a coupling... You did VERY good! And just so you know... Michigan plumbing code for venting is unique in the US. As far as I know every other state allows "dry vents". Michigan does not! Not getting bit by that one is surprising for a DIYer!!!
You might want to do something about the bare wood extending into the dirt by the cast iron hookup. That is a perfect place for termites to invade the entire structure.
It's pretty awesome when you've done everything almost exactly right and the inspectors can come in to just lend a second pair of eyes to make sure you've dotted the Is and crossed the Ts. Everyone fucks up and that external review is invaluable.
You need to change out that sanitary tee that’s laying on its side. Those type of tees can only go vertical. For horizontal tee connections you need to always use long sweep tees/combo. Or use a wye and a 45 degree.
The 5x8 nail players are required at the top and bottom of walls simply because there is to protect from nails from crown molding or baseboard. Don't usually need 5x8 anywhere else
You did a real good job I’m 65 years old I’ve been a contractor for 36 years and after 20 something years of remodeling and doing everything iPhone to interior finish carpentry for new homes and I even see the plumbers under cruise failing inspections on new homes for certain things. But I’ve been there doing my own work in my house and sometimes I guess years ago and other inspectors might cut you a little bit of slack or this an app but what you have to do afterwards it’s not that much work and it’s just how it is you’ll be able to make those changes you’re giving selfie PVC 3 to 4 inch and then use the band and get a long sweep neck cut into that stack and put that in there for your bathroom it’s nothing major but you did a really great job and I know how long it takes to do that stuff. I renovated my house at that time on many things over the years and I did a lot of plumbing work in here too and I feel for you but your work looks great and that’s just how it is with the plumbing inspectors and every other inspectors.Some of them are more strict than others and that’s just how it is bro I think you did a fantastic job and it’s not much to correct. Good luck with your project!😊
For a diy that looks great. As for the toilet, if I understand it right, there is a 4” stack it you have a toilet wet vented by a toilet above it. If this is the case it will be a problem. If you have 4” pipe with a slug of water going down it, it pushes a lot of air. Imagining a 4” diameter hand pump. When you push the plunger, that air has to go somewhere and most likely it will bounce the water in the toilet below and possible cause the trap to lose water. The difference on the stud guards is on the vertical it’s just drywall. On the top plates you have trim so you need that plate to overhang to prevent a framing nail from getting it. Though on that window frame with 2” pipe going through 2x4, I’m surprised they didn’t make you put a stud show
When I had my addition put on, I was surprised to see 3", not 4" PVC used for toilets and stack. It was explained to me that back when toilets used many gallons to flush, 4" was appropriate. Todays toilets send so little water down with the waste, that a 3" pipe is better because there's more force to send the water/waste through the pipes.
Nicely done. I DIY everything possible in our remodel for exactly the same reasons. I feel the dedication i put into the work counterbalances the ahem occasional mistake or quality difference compared to having a pro do it. Oh yeah, and the money saved 😘
Argh, had an electrician friend that's a DIYer do some of my plumbing and I soon realized it was a mistake. He installed a 4" x 4" rubber coupler without the metal wrap. It's going to be hell to fix now.
You may want to consider switching out those galvinized pipes and fittings on the shower assembly (which is likely made of brass) for 1/2 inch copper or 3/4 pex as well, to avoid galvanic corrosion which will lead to future issues.
@samuelkingentrepreneur I've done hundreds of assemblies with all pex, just the spouts need to be 3/4 for optimum flow rate, as the interior diameter is closest to or greater than 1/2 inch copper. Seen it done with 1/2 inch pex many times too, but this creates far more pressure on the valve body seals, wearing em out prematurely and also the tub can take twice as long to fill. They key is finding 3/4 pex to 1/2 FPT drop ear fittings. These are very hard to find for me in my area. Most store chains and supply houses rarely have em in stock, but I've had great luck getting em online.
@@samuelkingentrepreneurI prefer hard pipe and not pex as it makes securing it a lot better and easier how many times you grab a tub spout to pull the lever up to have it loose and think geez that's not right just saying any electrolysis that's going to happen between two dissimilar metals is a very long way down the road ive taken shower valves out that were installed w galvanized in the 50s and 60s and there was not any significant electrolysis on the two places shower up and tub spout down
Could that have become a wet vent? I'm not a plumber but I think I saw that either way that was a great video and you showed it can be done. Inpections are a open book test
Making mistakes is the only way to learn, also having an open mind to a plumbers opinion and direction without getting defensive can only benefit you. That being said there’s a lot more than just 2 things he could have failed you for, according to UPC rules. He probably gave you a lot of leeway, cause you’re not a plumber. Plumbing is not about plumbing faster, it’s about making everything as efficient as possible and checking off all the “what if this happens down the road” boxes while following local codes no matter how long it takes. A key thing to remember is, just cause it’s within plumbing codes, doesn’t mean it’s the most efficient. I’ve been plumbing 14 years and I own my own plumbing company and I’m still learning and interested in new things and techniques, I even like seeing how they do things in other countries and it gives me ideas, I’m always a student in life.
Having completed 1000s of inspections through the years you have two types of inspectors. The ones that will look at everything and explain how to rectify the issues and the assholes.
I have built so many deck and I always fail the first inspection. I have had a few perfect decks that the inspector just had to find a little problem. Now I give him easy to fix, esay to see problems and let him fail me. Then I fix that and move on. I do excellent work, but I just have an inspector that will pass a builders decks without so much as a glance at it, but my decks he breaks out the magnifying glass. Some inspectors are just that way.
Hey I think you did a excellent job. I’m a DIY and have been involved in numerous house projects. I helped out with Habitat For Humanity. Lessons learned minor adjustments PASS.
Don’t know if you’re also going to have a framing/structural inspection, but I’m pretty sure I see some holes and notching in the joists that are not to code.
Why did you replace cast iron with PVC and copper with PEX? Recommend cast iron which is much quieter. Copper is less toxic and easier to install with press fittings. Vents are required at each fixture to prevent sewer gas from coming into the house. Stud guards are required.
Probably cost of materials man lmao, also ease of work for doing it on your own. Not everyone has a few thousand dollar to get a press set up and a decent snap cutter to make cast iron easier. He definitely did this at a fraction of what a cast iron dwv, and copper water supply house would cost.
Cost and also ease of installation that's a no Brainer I doubt the aka quiet pipe is something he even considered when thinking about doing this job to me it's not a big deal to be having breakfast and listen to someone flush a big shit down the crapper it's a natural bodily function
You must live in the boondocks being allowed to do your own plumbing also, you need a shielded coupling where the PVC turns into cast on the main stack. Plus you’re missing nail plates for the studs.
Pretty much everywhere if your doing the job as a homeowner builder they don't allow you to hire outside people plumbers etc now I've been someone's brother helping out lots of times but on a homeowners permit the homeowner is supposed to do the work and that's only allowed if it's the homeowners primary residence he can't pull a homeowners permit to do renovations on a rental if he's got the rental money coming in he can afford regular contractors is the thought I assume but as long as his work passes inspection then its allowed he's acting as an owner builder or contractor for himself it's the only time it's allowed he can't go pulling permits to do work for other people as that's unlicensed contracting and no Bueno
I would have used a cleanout with a 90-degree angle between the run and the cap instead of the angled one so I could run a snake into the house as well as outside if I need to get to a blockage, but the one you used is fine.
I don't see a problem with the toilet, dumps into a 3" stack with other vents connected. 3" pipe is self-venting, also the other vents provide ample relief, I think the inspector wash busting your chops for his benefit lol, Great job for a diy.
Nope, it needs to be vented….inspector didn’t call him on some other things i saw (no long turns). Inspector didn’t seem like he was being over the top
@@travlangley1 it is vented, drops into a 3" line coming from the top. Now if that line doesn't vent,that's a different story but you don't see that in the video
@@vinnygoombatts1458 it has to be designed for stack vent…if the upper toilets/fixtures are running you’re not getting air technically…we both know it will work fine, but as for the code I get why the inspector wanted him to do the vent
As a DIYer myself I look at mistakes as a good thing, because I won't do it again sure it can be costly in time and materials but worth it in the end .it's allways right the second time around
Big problem is comprimising structural integrity cutting more than 15% of structural members. The pipes should have been run under the structural members, building a faux ceiling if necessary. Expect inspectors to find more; they always do! Took 16 months and 3 inspections to finally get my electrical approved! Held me to the letter of code; NO VARIANCE!
@@rudygallegos8559no 42 inches is the normal height to Revent its six inches above the flood rim level of the highest fixture to avoid getting and solids stuck in the vent in the event of a stoppage in the main line
If I had a dollar for every time I saw PEX done wrong, I would be rich. You do not need to 90 every turn, PEX is flexible and is meant to bend so you can eliminate joints.
I was taught only to do joints in PEX where the bend it too tight, you can’t avoid splitting a supply line or you’re doing a repair. Every joint you add is 2 more places for failure.
Man! You are incredible. I think you did great and have just a few corrections. (Also watched you replace the roof! Where do you get the energy? You should be very pleased and proud of your accomplishments!!!
Paranoid….. The codes/inspectors and building departments are only there to enforce quality workmanship so you don’t buy a house that’s a total piece of crap..
I think that's not bad for someone who is doing this DIY.. two mistakes on an entire 3 bedroom house.. Plumbing isn't something I like to do so hats off to ya
This is an incredible accomplishment! No one can ever take this away from you. I have one question about local code enforcement. In the municipality where I live they require a licensed plumber to do plumbing. Same for Electric. I'm curious what municipality you are in that allows DIY plumbing. I saw your video on doing your own roof and that was equally impressive.
Pretty sure you want to vent the main stack above the toilet. Most toilets vent on the main stack. (Also a DIY). Also Pretty sure you don't want to vent the toilet by relying on the sink vent...these items usually have their own vents. Toilets usually have a 4" vent. Though multiple toilets can share them.
Having the tub and then lavatory dump into the vent of the toilet is called a wet vent and common practice it can even be done on a two inch horizontal wet vent picking up fixtures along the way tubs showers bidets etc and work just fine a toilet no longer has to be what they called back then an individual vent they did it with all fixtures back idk before electricity lol but it was deemed ridiculous overkill and not necessary for proper flushing and draining of fixtures there are certain requirements of course and limitations but a wet vent is acceptable practice all over the country
FYI: if your got city water PEX is a issue if the water is treated with Chloramines as it causes PEX to degrade and fail. You need some good filtering to remove them so your PEX does not fail.
Use PEX B if this applies to you, it handles chlorine better than A or C. PEX B is also stronger than the others, and leeches less chemicals in the water. A is more flexible though.
@@Ariel1S PEX-B fails too, it just takes longer. FWIW: Every pipe material false if chloramines are used (Copper, PVC, CPVC, PEX, & Polyethene. Chloramines are also pretty toxic, but cities use it because its dirt cheap.
Yeah, but over HOW many years? No pipe lasts forever. Also, keep in mind that chlorine rarely goes into a PEX system at FULL strength. It's usually diluted. PEX is still a new medium. There needs to be more studies as to the benefits/downsides to the product. Until then, I'd say, use it.
y off your main trunk to every floor. three inch to every toilet with a vent to the attic from every toilet then tie them together so you have only one vent thru the roof. and use sanitary tees from the main collection line or vent. do not use sanitary tees laying on their side or on their back. only in a vertical position, that why they call them sanitary tees, they separate the air in front of the 'wave' coming down the line allowing the air to rise in the vent and the liquid to fall. run vents together with straight tees and whatever fall you need to make them meet. drains from sinks or tubs need their own vent if the run is over 7 feet. if there are any 90's in the drain line, make them long sweep and if more than two 90's run its own vent anyway. if its feasible run a vent from every drain, you won't be sorry. I guess you could always use those stupid vents in your vanities that spring open to vent then close to prevent sewer gas but your drains will burp and bubble anyway... the thing to understand is how liquid runs in waves in piping. you need to separate the air from the liquid or other problems will develop like traps in floor drains being syphoned off as well as lower floor appliances like showers filling with sewer from upper floor toilets..
Venturing a guess the logic of the nail plate size may at least in part have to do with baseboard and crown at the top and bottom plate where down the line someone may purposely nail into the wall where there isn't a stud and therefore no stud guard
I would run the toilet its own vent if possible. I owned a house recently that smelled like sewage from the kitchen sink all the time because the toilet was vented off it and that was enough to make me move out.
Plumber here, can't believe those two things were all that was wrong. There's a lot of code in plumbing and to DIY it and only have two things wrong is quite an accomplishment. Good for you!
I think you should be pretty proud of what you accomplished. The failed inspection points are things you have now learned and will be useful to you in the future. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yes, and it's really great to be aware of the issue now, rather than in the future when you have it all walked up and causing damage.
Learning through mistakes
Don't worry about a failed inspection. It's just a step along the way to making things right.
I give you a thumbs up for posting this video because you were willing to show where you made mistakes so others could learn. It shows strong character.
Making mistakes is to be expected, nothing to be ashamed of. As a DIYer, only a few items being missed is something to be proud of.
As a retired plumber and plumbing inspector I think you did a pretty good job as DIY. I will make a few comments in a constructive way. Every where has different rules. Also, not all plumbing inspectors are created equal. Most are very good. The few others depending on there training can be pretty bad.
Where I worked the 4” cast below grade would remain the full size thru the floor with a 4” clean out above the slab and then it could be reduced to 3” to pick up what’s above. This can all be done in plastic. The fernco is an approved fitting so I wouldn’t have a problem with it. The powder room w.c requires a vent as water flowing past the fixture could siphon the water from the bowl. We call this indirect siphonage. In a small buildings it may not siphon but multi floor buildings it can. Where I worked that code didn’t have 2 sets of rules. The vent required for the w.c. in the powder room can be connected to the horizontal piece of 3”pipe just after the 90 degree elbow. That vent can the tie into other vents close by as long as it is above the flood level rim of the fixture it is tying into. You may have to increase the vent size after the WC vent is added. This way the plumbing downstream of the WC vent could remain. Less work. The closer the vent is to a fixture the better. Be careful where you drill holes thru the floor joists. Usually the building inspector is looking at that. The kitchen sink drain appears to be in a outside wall. Depending where you are if there’s a chance of freezing the drain should be protected with ridgid styrofoam.It works well in these situations. Good luck with the changes and hopefully you get it passed. At the end of the day you want the plumbing to work with no problems. In most situations if there’s a problem it’s usually discovered after the fixtures are connected. It then becomes a nightmare as the building is complete. That’s why the rough in inspection is so important. It may seem some of the details are a waste of time but from experience it’s worth it. Lastly, part of the rough in inspection usually requires that all the drains, waste and vents be filled up with water to check for leaks. Most plumbers hate doing it but it’s worth it.
Thank you for your kind words and feedback. The outside drain I plan to fully insulate in the floor joists. Thanks for all the other helpful info.
Well said you know your business
@@MK-xl9tt Thanks
yeah i dont think its a good idea to have a no hub fitting under the slab, if it every starts leaking you cant fix it
@@Lewdacris916 In my previous post I stated that I have no problem with fernco fittings. I checked their website. They are certified by many recognized agencies. If properly installed there is no problem with leakage. My question is if your going from cast iron to plastic what type of connection would be acceptable or better. Modern buildings that have cast iron drains, waste and vents have thousands of mechanical joint couplings connecting plain end cast iron pipe and fittings. Similar to Fernco. They have a rubber gasket surround by a stainless steel clamp. Once installed the DWV is filled up with water and checked for leaks. Any connection can leak. That’s why plumbers test the plumbing to avoid problems. Still there will always be a few untested joints. It’s not a perfect world. Connecting older existing plumbing to newer products can be a challenge. There’s a lot of certified products out there to deal with this. I understand there are jurisdictions that don’t allow them. (Fernco) Where I have worked they are allowed.
If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning. As a former DIY'er who then became a professional, this is how you become better. Your mistakes were relatively minor, if not annoying, and you should be proud of what you accomplished. Municipal inspectors are paid to do what they do, and even professionals fail inspections from time to time.
For anyone who does this, that 4 inch pipe needs to be brought up above the floor full 4 inch to the cleanout tee. You can then reduce to 3 inch above the floor. The reason for this is there is difficult to properly clean out that 4 inch pipe below the ground should it become plugged with only a 3 inch cleanout opening as access.
As soon as the video started, before you even said a word, the first thing that caught my eye was your missing stud guards.😁
You did a good job. What you have to change is in my view minor. The most important part is that you learned and to me that's priceless.
Your humility got a sub from me. This is incredibly helpful information.
Pat yourself on the back. A lot of people just think of doing something like this their whole life. They never actually get to doing it! 👏
It takes a lot of effort to do your own plumbing, kudos for that. It takes lot of guts to make a video about your mistakes and put it on the internet for others to learn from, hats off to you for that.
Great job - sorry about the do-over for the powder room. I failed inspection on a two-sink vanity because I had the vent just a little too high, but a simple fix. Keep DIYing my friend! Live & learn, part of the reward of DIYing.
@nixonkutz What part of the country are all of you in that you call a bathroom a "powder room"? Powder room is an old 1800's term for bathroom.
@@CoopyKat in the real estate listings they're usually called a "half bath" (missing the half where you actually bathe!) but in the Mid-Atlantic where I live I've always heard them referred to as powder rooms. No one here would walk into Benjamin Moore and say "I want a fun and adventurous color for my half bath." What's the more familiar term where you live?
I give you kudos for doing it yourself and I like how you told the plumbers to leave you alone because you're a do-it-yourselfer and you know you made mistakes
Thank you
PEX is flexible, don't use it like copper with constant elbows and fittings. Instead just bend it to where it needs to go - your route will be a little different, since you need gradual bends, but you reduce points of failure and pressure drops.
@@timmattle4730Warm it up a little next time. Warm not hot, i.e. as hot as you are able to still hold it without burning yourself. A small amount of flattening won't significantly harm anything - certainly less than a fitting would. An actual kink in the line though is no good. Also, bend it slowly into the brace.
@@timmattle4730 You can use the heat gun on high if you keep it moving. Test the pipe frequently with your hand to see how hot it is. When it gets to just barely burning hot it's very flexible and can handle bending, but it will not permanently change shape.
If you do need to permanently change shape you have to heat it a little hotter than that but be very cautious because it kinks very easily at those high temperatures.
But remember to bend it slowly give it a chance to relax as you bend it.
One of these days I should make a video on how PEX-B handles heat and bending. All the videos are I've found are about PEX-A but PEX-B is more forgiving than people realize.
had my shower flow back up because pex was installed from the shower valve down to the faucet, apparently the inner diameter is smaller than copper and that caused enough flow restriction to cause my showerhead to be the overflow lol
@@elaw123idk about that It sounds like the shower valve was installed upside down not shower up the little bit of difference in diameter is not going to make the water go up that high
We learn from making mistakes. I think you did great for a DIY'er. Now you are better prepared for your next plumbing job ❤😊
I admire you taking on this task. You did better work than I did...but mine was never inspected! Great video.
I plumbed my home too...
You did great! Saved a LOT OF MONEY!
Your work is professional and meticulous. I saw it in my house, which you helped me complete. I was hoping that you would work on my second house, but unfortunately you are busy.
This is such a solid and comprehensive explanation for a DIYer to post a video of himself failing on somethings you're clearing very passionate about. It is got me thinking. You got to know how much skill goes into this project. I hope at the end you know how hard it was to get done and how much better its going to get for your next project. I can't wait to see this old house pass its final inspection. Great job!
Very informative and you should be very proud of how close to passing you got it. Your mistakes are very fixable!
These are such small failed issues. That is a wonderful comment on your work. Well done! Super good
Awesome Video. You always learn your lesson when you have to spend your own money amd energy reworking something. Luckily the inspector didn't call you on all those medium turn 90's and San T's. Our inspectors would make us cut'em out. Good job on this video.
It's commendable that you're willing to share a video of your failures. I see that you've also included one where you failed an ELECTRICAL inspection too. I hate to be the one to tell you this but add one more egregious omission. You'd fail a rough in framing inspection as well. You can't notch out the TOP of a rafter leaving the bulk to rest against a plate. Use a stringer or better yet, joist hangers. I applaud your energy and willlingness to learn skills but this is why people in the trades have to serve apprenticeships over time to learn how to do these things. Over time, you get better.
Speaking as a retired home inspector that has renovated several home, the inspector has good points. I look to books like Ugly's (for electrical) and Google to help me. One day someone will thank you for keeping a book of pictures of your renovations for the benefit of future owners.
We are three of the best plumbers that ever Plummed a plum
That’s exactly how you learn you make a mistake and then you fix it and The people that say they never make a mistake are usually the people that never do anything remember that ! you did a great job!!
DIY is knowing how to do the specific tasks correctly. Knowing the decades or more of theory behind every trade and inspector.....is not so easy to get right every time. Great of you to share. Cheers.
Very helpful. One suggestion is to add accessible clean outs to all low slope sections of the kitchen drain. Stuff like coffee grounds and cooking grease will accumulate there and must be mechanically removed.
One other suggestion, if I may: Don't dump coffee grounds and cooking grease down the drain.
@@nonyafkinbznes1420 Agreed.
Although would never hurt to add a clean-out now that the house is already stripped to the bones anyway, no one in my family has ever put food or grease down the drain in the 32 years I've been alive (we collect grease in old soup cans and use paper towels to wipe pans out before washing them out, then toss both towels and grease can in the trash) and we've never once had a drain clog issue.
Nice work dude. Even pros fail inspections. Nothing to worry over.
For the horizontal nail plates, im pretty sure its because of crown and base mouldings.
I DYI quite a few things but I don't think I would try plumbing an entire house unless I had a plumber approved plan to follow. Kudos to you for giving it a try.
Well done. Good for you. Always done my own plumbing and electrics. Syphon vents - can’t have too many. Only need one little issue for a lot of grief.
Kudos! Don’t take the failure too much to heart. The end game is to avoid nasty issues later in the finished house. I’m also a DIY guy and my feeling is I do the best I can up front and trust the inspector to do his/her job professionally.
If it’s wrong it’s not in anybody’s best interest to just hide it behind the drywall. 😏
🙌🏻
The reason why they want the big plates on horizontal pipes is to protect from nails and pins going into pipes when you install baseboard trim and any trim you may install on the top of your walls.
I live in rural West Virginia and I plumbed my home 20 years ago with no inspection and its been working just fine ever since...
Great efforts. Good luck to you in the future with your house
Same happened to me 40 years ago
Plumbing inspector was old retired plumber
I respected his rejection
Thanks for sharing your experience!
In my opinion you did a great job.
Don't feel bad, even professional fail
When I built my house, I hired a "licensed plumber". He racked up 26 "exceptions" in the first rough inspection. 18 on the second... And I fired him before the third inspection!!! I ended up paying a friend to come up from Alabama to help me do the plumbing after ripping out EVERYTHING the plumber did. You got dinged for a missed vent (could happen to the best) and a coupling... You did VERY good! And just so you know... Michigan plumbing code for venting is unique in the US. As far as I know every other state allows "dry vents". Michigan does not! Not getting bit by that one is surprising for a DIYer!!!
Awesome, man. I do it all myself, too.
You might want to do something about the bare wood extending into the dirt by the cast iron hookup.
That is a perfect place for termites to invade the entire structure.
I'm about to plumb my own and is good to learn from mistakes, thanks for posting this video and teaching us DIYers
Good on ya for getting after it. I’m the same type of guy. Love the spirit. Good luck. Pls keep the videos coming.
It's pretty awesome when you've done everything almost exactly right and the inspectors can come in to just lend a second pair of eyes to make sure you've dotted the Is and crossed the Ts. Everyone fucks up and that external review is invaluable.
You need to change out that sanitary tee that’s laying on its side. Those type of tees can only go vertical. For horizontal tee connections you need to always use long sweep tees/combo. Or use a wye and a 45 degree.
You did a great job regardless. Looks great
At the end of the day for not being an actual plumber that was a very good job. At the end of the day those are pretty direct fixes... nice work
The 5x8 nail players are required at the top and bottom of walls simply because there is to protect from nails from crown molding or baseboard. Don't usually need 5x8 anywhere else
I think your next failed inspection will be all the cut studs scabbed back together and the holes in joists that are nearly the entire joist.
Did a great job plumbing is hard the vents etc takes lot knowledge you did fine. Dam sucks to rework lessons learned...great job
Thank you for the kind words and encouragement
You did a real good job I’m 65 years old I’ve been a contractor for 36 years and after 20 something years of remodeling and doing everything iPhone to interior finish carpentry for new homes and I even see the plumbers under cruise failing inspections on new homes for certain things. But I’ve been there doing my own work in my house and sometimes I guess years ago and other inspectors might cut you a little bit of slack or this an app but what you have to do afterwards it’s not that much work and it’s just how it is you’ll be able to make those changes you’re giving selfie PVC 3 to 4 inch and then use the band and get a long sweep neck cut into that stack and put that in there for your bathroom it’s nothing major but you did a really great job and I know how long it takes to do that stuff. I renovated my house at that time on many things over the years and I did a lot of plumbing work in here too and I feel for you but your work looks great and that’s just how it is with the plumbing inspectors and every other inspectors.Some of them are more strict than others and that’s just how it is bro I think you did a fantastic job and it’s not much to correct. Good luck with your project!😊
For a diy that looks great. As for the toilet, if I understand it right, there is a 4” stack it you have a toilet wet vented by a toilet above it. If this is the case it will be a problem. If you have 4” pipe with a slug of water going down it, it pushes a lot of air. Imagining a 4” diameter hand pump. When you push the plunger, that air has to go somewhere and most likely it will bounce the water in the toilet below and possible cause the trap to lose water.
The difference on the stud guards is on the vertical it’s just drywall. On the top plates you have trim so you need that plate to overhang to prevent a framing nail from getting it. Though on that window frame with 2” pipe going through 2x4, I’m surprised they didn’t make you put a stud show
Very nice work. Thank you for sharing. Very interesting.
"If you aren't making any mistakes; you probably aren't getting very much done."
- Someone more experienced than me
Lesson learned. Well done!
Nice. I bought a lot and will build my own house, using the American construction style (wood frame). Good that I don't need to pass any inspection.
When I had my addition put on, I was surprised to see 3", not 4" PVC used for toilets and stack. It was explained to me that back when toilets used many gallons to flush, 4" was appropriate. Todays toilets send so little water down with the waste, that a 3" pipe is better because there's more force to send the water/waste through the pipes.
Well done mate! Cheers, Sean.
Great job on that! Straightforward fixes and you come out only saving what, $10K? Nice!!!
Nicely done. I DIY everything possible in our remodel for exactly the same reasons. I feel the dedication i put into the work counterbalances the ahem occasional mistake or quality difference compared to having a pro do it. Oh yeah, and the money saved 😘
Argh, had an electrician friend that's a DIYer do some of my plumbing and I soon realized it was a mistake. He installed a 4" x 4" rubber coupler without the metal wrap. It's going to be hell to fix now.
You may want to consider switching out those galvinized pipes and fittings on the shower assembly (which is likely made of brass) for 1/2 inch copper or 3/4 pex as well, to avoid galvanic corrosion which will lead to future issues.
I was on the understanding that pex wasn’t allowed for that and I’m not really too familiar with sweating pex so that’s why I went galvanized.
@samuelkingentrepreneur I've done hundreds of assemblies with all pex, just the spouts need to be 3/4 for optimum flow rate, as the interior diameter is closest to or greater than 1/2 inch copper. Seen it done with 1/2 inch pex many times too, but this creates far more pressure on the valve body seals, wearing em out prematurely and also the tub can take twice as long to fill. They key is finding 3/4 pex to 1/2 FPT drop ear fittings. These are very hard to find for me in my area. Most store chains and supply houses rarely have em in stock, but I've had great luck getting em online.
@@samuelkingentrepreneurI prefer hard pipe and not pex as it makes securing it a lot better and easier how many times you grab a tub spout to pull the lever up to have it loose and think geez that's not right just saying any electrolysis that's going to happen between two dissimilar metals is a very long way down the road ive taken shower valves out that were installed w galvanized in the 50s and 60s and there was not any significant electrolysis on the two places shower up and tub spout down
Could that have become a wet vent? I'm not a plumber but I think I saw that either way that was a great video and you showed it can be done. Inpections are a open book test
Great job mate. Really inspired!!
Please don’t encourage him, he ruined his home
Making mistakes is the only way to learn, also having an open mind to a plumbers opinion and direction without getting defensive can only benefit you.
That being said there’s a lot more than just 2 things he could have failed you for, according to UPC rules. He probably gave you a lot of leeway, cause you’re not a plumber. Plumbing is not about plumbing faster, it’s about making everything as efficient as possible and checking off all the “what if this happens down the road” boxes while following local codes no matter how long it takes. A key thing to remember is, just cause it’s within plumbing codes, doesn’t mean it’s the most efficient.
I’ve been plumbing 14 years and I own my own plumbing company and I’m still learning and interested in new things and techniques, I even like seeing how they do things in other countries and it gives me ideas, I’m always a student in life.
Having completed 1000s of inspections through the years you have two types of inspectors. The ones that will look at everything and explain how to rectify the issues and the assholes.
Nah you didn’t wasted much it’s something you have learned n it’s good to learn from mistakes n also saved thousands if you had a Plubmer too
I have built so many deck and I always fail the first inspection. I have had a few perfect decks that the inspector just had to find a little problem. Now I give him easy to fix, esay to see problems and let him fail me. Then I fix that and move on. I do excellent work, but I just have an inspector that will pass a builders decks without so much as a glance at it, but my decks he breaks out the magnifying glass. Some inspectors are just that way.
You could tie in the new wye by taking the pipe loose at the flex connection and digging down a little more and reinstall it from the new wye on down.
That’s what I did. It worked well
Hey I think you did a excellent job. I’m a DIY and have been involved in numerous house projects. I helped out with Habitat For Humanity. Lessons learned minor adjustments PASS.
Don’t know if you’re also going to have a framing/structural inspection, but I’m pretty sure I see some holes and notching in the joists that are not to code.
Why did you replace cast iron with PVC and copper with PEX? Recommend cast iron which is much quieter. Copper is less toxic and easier to install with press fittings. Vents are required at each fixture to prevent sewer gas from coming into the house. Stud guards are required.
Probably cost of materials man lmao, also ease of work for doing it on your own. Not everyone has a few thousand dollar to get a press set up and a decent snap cutter to make cast iron easier. He definitely did this at a fraction of what a cast iron dwv, and copper water supply house would cost.
Cost and also ease of installation that's a no Brainer I doubt the aka quiet pipe is something he even considered when thinking about doing this job to me it's not a big deal to be having breakfast and listen to someone flush a big shit down the crapper it's a natural bodily function
You must live in the boondocks being allowed to do your own plumbing also, you need a shielded coupling where the PVC turns into cast on the main stack. Plus you’re missing nail plates for the studs.
Pretty much everywhere if your doing the job as a homeowner builder they don't allow you to hire outside people plumbers etc now I've been someone's brother helping out lots of times but on a homeowners permit the homeowner is supposed to do the work and that's only allowed if it's the homeowners primary residence he can't pull a homeowners permit to do renovations on a rental if he's got the rental money coming in he can afford regular contractors is the thought I assume but as long as his work passes inspection then its allowed he's acting as an owner builder or contractor for himself it's the only time it's allowed he can't go pulling permits to do work for other people as that's unlicensed contracting and no Bueno
I’d say you did really well with only a couple hiccups. Thanks
Learned something and you saved a ton of money- Win!
I would have used a cleanout with a 90-degree angle between the run and the cap instead of the angled one so I could run a snake into the house as well as outside if I need to get to a blockage, but the one you used is fine.
Good job, anyway. You did a great job.
You done well,
Awsome job, subscribed.
W/C with no vent will definitely be an issue. It will syphon the trap and you will get sewer gasses.
I don't see a problem with the toilet, dumps into a 3" stack with other vents connected. 3" pipe is self-venting, also the other vents provide ample relief, I think the inspector wash busting your chops for his benefit lol, Great job for a diy.
Exactly. Code used to allow an unvented toilet that was within a few feet of the main vent stack. Maybe it's changed though.
@@MrLouie75 depends where you live. But yeah true
Nope, it needs to be vented….inspector didn’t call him on some other things i saw (no long turns). Inspector didn’t seem like he was being over the top
@@travlangley1 it is vented, drops into a 3" line coming from the top. Now if that line doesn't vent,that's a different story but you don't see that in the video
@@vinnygoombatts1458 it has to be designed for stack vent…if the upper toilets/fixtures are running you’re not getting air technically…we both know it will work fine, but as for the code I get why the inspector wanted him to do the vent
Excellent to know stuff 🙏
you did a great job
Your inspector is working for the 100$per hour union plumbers. Keep doing diy, bro.
As a DIYer myself I look at mistakes as a good thing, because I won't do it again sure it can be costly in time and materials but worth it in the end .it's allways right the second time around
Big problem is comprimising structural integrity cutting more than 15% of structural members. The pipes should have been run under the structural members, building a faux ceiling if necessary.
Expect inspectors to find more; they always do!
Took 16 months and 3 inspections to finally get my electrical approved! Held me to the letter of code; NO VARIANCE!
Seen quite a few structural issues in this video, which I believe are more concerning than the plumbing
Surprised about the vents, we don't do that at all
Yes each re vent 42” above flood rim
@@rudygallegos8559no 42 inches is the normal height to Revent its six inches above the flood rim level of the highest fixture to avoid getting and solids stuck in the vent in the event of a stoppage in the main line
If I had a dollar for every time I saw PEX done wrong, I would be rich. You do not need to 90 every turn, PEX is flexible and is meant to bend so you can eliminate joints.
Lol yup. I laugh too
I was taught only to do joints in PEX where the bend it too tight, you can’t avoid splitting a supply line or you’re doing a repair.
Every joint you add is 2 more places for failure.
Bro I done roofing I ain't gonna lie your a bad ass mutha
Man! You are incredible. I think you did great and have just a few corrections. (Also watched you replace the roof! Where do you get the energy? You should be very pleased and proud of your accomplishments!!!
wait till the second inspector comes by and fails all new items to appease the bureaucracy gods.
" he didn't fail anything, did he even do his job?"
Paranoid….. The codes/inspectors and building departments are only there to enforce quality workmanship so you don’t buy a house that’s a total piece of crap..
exactly what inspections are if it works its fine if its smells or leaks its not fine
I think that's not bad for someone who is doing this DIY.. two mistakes on an entire 3 bedroom house.. Plumbing isn't something I like to do so hats off to ya
This is an incredible accomplishment! No one can ever take this away from you. I have one question about local code enforcement. In the municipality where I live they require a licensed plumber to do plumbing. Same for Electric. I'm curious what municipality you are in that allows DIY plumbing. I saw your video on doing your own roof and that was equally impressive.
Pretty sure you want to vent the main stack above the toilet. Most toilets vent on the main stack. (Also a DIY). Also Pretty sure you don't want to vent the toilet by relying on the sink vent...these items usually have their own vents. Toilets usually have a 4" vent. Though multiple toilets can share them.
Having the tub and then lavatory dump into the vent of the toilet is called a wet vent and common practice it can even be done on a two inch horizontal wet vent picking up fixtures along the way tubs showers bidets etc and work just fine a toilet no longer has to be what they called back then an individual vent they did it with all fixtures back idk before electricity lol but it was deemed ridiculous overkill and not necessary for proper flushing and draining of fixtures there are certain requirements of course and limitations but a wet vent is acceptable practice all over the country
I’m a lisc plumber and don’t always pass inspection , the codes change from city to city , but I don’t think it’ll be that bad to replace
Thanks for the encouragement. I already made the changes and have my reinspection scheduled. It really wasn’t too bad.
FYI: if your got city water PEX is a issue if the water is treated with Chloramines as it causes PEX to degrade and fail. You need some good filtering to remove them so your PEX does not fail.
Use PEX B if this applies to you, it handles chlorine better than A or C. PEX B is also stronger than the others, and leeches less chemicals in the water. A is more flexible though.
@@Ariel1S PEX-B fails too, it just takes longer. FWIW: Every pipe material false if chloramines are used (Copper, PVC, CPVC, PEX, & Polyethene. Chloramines are also pretty toxic, but cities use it because its dirt cheap.
Yeah, but over HOW many years? No pipe lasts forever. Also, keep in mind that chlorine rarely goes into a PEX system at FULL strength. It's usually diluted. PEX is still a new medium. There needs to be more studies as to the benefits/downsides to the product. Until then, I'd say, use it.
@@michaelwolf6424 Pipes can start to fail after about 2 years from Chloramines. Not fun ripping out Dryway to replace it.
y off your main trunk to every floor. three inch to every toilet with a vent to the attic from every toilet then tie them together so you have only one vent thru the roof. and use sanitary tees from the main collection line or vent. do not use sanitary tees laying on their side or on their back. only in a vertical position, that why they call them sanitary tees, they separate the air in front of the 'wave' coming down the line allowing the air to rise in the vent and the liquid to fall. run vents together with straight tees and whatever fall you need to make them meet. drains from sinks or tubs need their own vent if the run is over 7 feet. if there are any 90's in the drain line, make them long sweep and if more than two 90's run its own vent anyway. if its feasible run a vent from every drain, you won't be sorry. I guess you could always use those stupid vents in your vanities that spring open to vent then close to prevent sewer gas but your drains will burp and bubble anyway... the thing to understand is how liquid runs in waves in piping. you need to separate the air from the liquid or other problems will develop like traps in floor drains being syphoned off as well as lower floor appliances like showers filling with sewer from upper floor toilets..
Good job!
Venturing a guess the logic of the nail plate size may at least in part have to do with baseboard and crown at the top and bottom plate where down the line someone may purposely nail into the wall where there isn't a stud and therefore no stud guard
You should have used relief vent and drain. With all those fixtures it would have balanced the air and water. Avoiding gurgling and slow drainage.
I would run the toilet its own vent if possible. I owned a house recently that smelled like sewage from the kitchen sink all the time because the toilet was vented off it and that was enough to make me move out.
Cut back above the cleanout and replace with 4" cleanout.