Please,befor you start depending on your roll over cage remove the 2 vert.supports behind the seat and replace it with an " X " drace. please think about it
@@christopherallen9615 not a pro pipe engineer how ever I'm retired now but I do understand stress dynamics I have a few year zdxs me with large construction firms I find that no matter how smart you are
How many carts and sxs buggies do you see with factory x pipes...? It's usually overkill. Kawasaki re x was the first. All of us who went through 5th grade knows about geometric strongth
Prime 05 but you probably don't do this much with raw steel. You should consider the consequences of your abilities before optimizing your water usage.
I was wincing so hard watching him bring that tire up to speed. Haha!! I was thinking "I bet he's just gonna let off the trigger before he tries to pull that drill off there and it's gonna snap right outta his hands and hit the camera." Well, luckily he didn't trash his camera.
That DeWalt drill entered in "Self Destruction Attempt". Luckily, it survived! You know something its not a good idea when the person doing it says it before!
Depends heavily on the type of plastic used, some will hold up much better than others. However I definitely agree, a bearing mounted sprocket is a far better solution.
You might want to rethink the torsional strength of that chain tensioner if you solid mount it. That huge v engine will have a ton of compression braking. ALL of that force will be directly applied to that tensioner. And with spring tension, I think it's one hard downshift away from piling the chain into the engine case. TBH if you had a double roller on the same arm, but the other roller above the top drive chain; then you wouldn't get a load of slack up top when compression braking. Then you could keep what you already have. I'm not being a naysayer. Your projects are rad and well thought out.
If i lived near you I would absolutely LOVE to help you out with your projects and hold things for you, you seriously need an assistant at crucial parts.
I very rarely knock someone's work and I am not doing it now, I will, however, advise you put an X brace in the back of the roll cage and for the love of all things rearward facing ... please make sure you put floor pans in under the seats, I have witnessed first hand the mess it makes of (luckily) just a seat when you get a branch bounce under the vehicle from one of the front tyres then dig in as the vehicle goes over it, if someone had been sitting in that seat at the time they would have been skewered like a shish kebab. Keep up the good work, this little buggy is going to be epic.
Oh,Our GOD!That last clip almost killed me.I have 2 broken ribs,and when that drill was spinning... Awesome build again Chris.That really looks tough enough to off-road race,even.I'd suggested the Chainfall to make lifting and turning your frames easier.A couple strips of angle steel, bolted to your roof joists, and you can lift the buggy with motor.
Mate, pleasure watching you work. Few things though.... 1. The floor pan ends before your butt and all that's protecting you from a spiky rock to the groin are those plastic seats. Might want to extend the floor.... 2. Why bolt the floor down? Rivets would be lighter and easier. 3. I have to echo about the chain tensioner. To close to the rear sprocket. I'm not opposed to making it out of Nylon though, but it needs to be more central if you can package it. Can't wait to see it finished! Until then please make sure you have an exit strategy when you spin the wheels. You had pretty much nowhere to go if the wheels had been out of balance and jumped the chassis of the sawhorses.
Tip for the cv axle’s if you have trouble, if you remove the boot clips pull back the boot take out grease the centre shaft will come out of the cv joint itself c clipped in splined on the ends that enters the cv joint, you have the tools and brain to just make a complete solid shaft Joint to joint 👍🏻
13:40 DID ANYONE ELSE HEAR AND SEE THE WOBBLE OF THE BRAKE DISC? AND HOW CLOSE THE INSIDE OF THE TIRE WAS TO THAT BRACKET? SOON AS HE HITS A BUMP.... THAT TIRE IS HITTING. STILL LOVE THE CHANNEL, AND AT LEAST YOU HAVE THE AMBITION TO DO A PROJECT LIKE THIS.... PROPS, ALL.THE WAY.
LOL We saw that coming as soon as your drill quit on you the first time. I was yelling at the screen... "you better pull your drill off before you let go of the trigger or the tire will rip it from your hands!" Hahahaha!! That was funny!! thanks for adding that at the end!
I feel you pain working alone, too often I wish someone else was dealing with the camera and could help hold things!!! That drill motor almost took you for a ride, be careful. Keep it up man!!
I totally dig your channel. I live in Oregon. I was on my way to the gambler 500 and my gambler car blew up and now I can't go. Good luck and "Always be Gambling"
By far my favorite UA-cam channel!!! I love love love how you explain everything out and aren't afraid to laugh at your mistakes. We're all learning and I truly enjoy your videos. Keep them coming the entertainment value is greatly appreciated!!!
I am now up to date with this build. Very cathartic watching all the lathe work.. funny you were sarcastic about looking forward to welding up the frame. And your channel is called... 😂😂 your awesome dude keep up the good work.
Hey man, I love the build. Great choice going with that engine btw! I just had a suggestion for your hoist that you have in the rafters. What you need to do is get either 3 - 2x4 by 12ft long boards, or, 1 4x6 by 12ft. You will also need some 90 degree twisted strong ties. 4 for each rafter that you cross. Along with that you will need some bolt on D-rings and some screws. For the 2x4s, you gotta do some clamping and gluing. Take two of them and glue them together. You will glue them like if you were stacking them. Then clamp it really well and screw them together to hold the boards tight together. Then take your 3rd one and glue it so it covers the seam, not the same way as before. Use a lot of glue to hold it well then use some 3" wood screws and screw it into the two that are already glued together. I suggest pilot drilling or use self tapping wood screws so the wood doesn't split. Then take your beam and get it up above the rafters. Position it so it is covering your work area and make sure its supported by as many rafters as possible. Then take your strong ties and use them to secure the beam to the rafters. Use one strong tie on each side of the beam AND each side of the rafter. Do this FOR EVERY RAFTER! You need to do this on each rafter so it will displace the weight across like 6-8 rafters. Once its locked down, take the d-rings and using 2" lag bolts, hold the d-ring up where you want it, mark the holes, pilot drill then bolt down the d-rings. I would install a d ring between every rafter except for the last one on each end. You can also use the rafter itself now, so if you just wanted to drill holes and lag bolt that piece of steel you used in this video, you could do that. The rafters being tied into the beam with the strong ties make it so if you pull down on one rafter, The other rafters will take up some of the weight just like if that was a hidden beam inside a house. Sometimes instead of doing an exposed beam in a home, they stick the beam above the rafters instead of under. Anyway, great work and maybe I'll see ya at the gambler!
this is coming along very nicely well done and its not even close to being done yet and its looking awesome. i have an idea for a shifter for the trans, in that open section in between the two floor pans make a raised up piece like a square-ish transmission tunnel and make a shifter like a sequential trans' shifter.
The importance of utilising mock up parts when you're welding, they don't have to be the same part just hold the steel etc in its running/operating position in place of the part. Looking forward to seeing this now you're going with a more suitable engine and I think you're most likely right on the drive shafts but I really don't think they'll fail that soon if you're not going too silly in it which is difficult for anyone when it's a ton of fun.
My second time watching the series. I forgot how funny the ending was! If you use a one way bearing and make an adapter or coupler you could go full speed safely with the drill. Hint; They use them in pull starters and clutches...
I think because off the way you engineerd the rear links that the spindles are going to rotate when you rear brake or floor it.i can be wrong..keep up the work.i like it
I really love this build but I would really add a couple things to it. 1st extend the floor pan to the center and under the seats. This would prevent intrusion from under the vehicle into to cabin. A large rock or stump will break those seats and could cause injury. 2nd you really really need a firewall between the cabin and that engine. That is just a normal safety measure. 3rd when you install the pedals you should put a front firewall and side protection panels on it. I know karts tend not to have these types of safety measures but buggies do. Prevention of flying debris entering the cabin is super important in off-road types of vehicles. A little sheet metal goes along way to preventing injuries. May even think about a plan windscreen and some side window nets. I know it maybe overkill but with all this work why compromise on saftey?
Very cool. Build. I have noticed that your front wheels are turning out of round and wobbling and a little with the rear axle as well. If they were perfectly round axles and hubs. They would drag evenly on your brake pads and you would hear the brake pads scrape just a little all the way around its full turn. If you notice in your video they only drag or scrape in different parts of the rotation. You can see the wobble pretty bad if you look at the drivers side front rotor when you spin it after you mounted the wheel. Not a big deal but over 60 mph you could develop what they call death wobble. Where it shakes so bad you have to stop the vehicle before it shakes apart brakes or otherwise causes an accident. Then again could just be the brake calipers you made. It seems like they werent perfectly squared or centered. Maybe put them on the lathe and spend some time dialing them in square and centered with a dial indicator and then turn down the face and the outside radius and see if that helps.
you can probably reinforce the rooftrusses a little by adding extra 2 by 4's to the sides and bolt those together like a sandwish , think you get more use out of the chainhoist that using the garage crane , it takes less space too
18:24 ... Get yourself a couple podger ratchets (or wrenches).. They have a spike on the end so you can jab them in holes and pry around until your holes line up. (We use them on metal buildings.. you're always fighting beams, they never line up)
It's much easier to cut the drive shafts and re spline the end to make the length you want. Many engineering shops will do it fairly cheaply if they can index of the original splines. Once welded they will lose most of their strength as they are specially heat treated to maximise torque yield strength. Still, your welds looked good, maybe a press fit sleeve over the top to increase radius of the joint..
Please,befor you start depending on
your roll over cage remove the 2 vert.supports behind the seat
and replace it with an " X " drace.
please think about it
That your professional opinion
Triangles are strong his support should be ok tbh
@@christopherallen9615 not a pro pipe engineer how ever I'm retired now but I do understand stress dynamics I have a few year zdxs me with large construction firms
I find that no matter how smart you are
How many carts and sxs buggies do you see with factory x pipes...? It's usually overkill. Kawasaki re x was the first. All of us who went through 5th grade knows about geometric strongth
I say, let this guy do his thing. He's building it stronger than it needs to be anyway.
Your fabrication skills are next level, I have never seen anyone do so much with raw steel in such a tiny workshop.
yawning kitty well i have even smaller😂
Prime 05 but you probably don't do this much with raw steel. You should consider the consequences of your abilities before optimizing your water usage.
20:21 It was at that moment he knew... he f up 😂
Btw maybe you should put some bigger rear axles to handle all the torsion
Dirtman 77xx bruh 😂😂😂😂😂😭😭😭
those are 1 inch thick solid rod. They will never break if they were properly welded. It will snap the bolts or the cv prior
@@fasousa4798 In that case you're right, they seemed to be smaller
1” of solid steel would need a pretty significant torque to break.
I was wincing so hard watching him bring that tire up to speed. Haha!! I was thinking "I bet he's just gonna let off the trigger before he tries to pull that drill off there and it's gonna snap right outta his hands and hit the camera." Well, luckily he didn't trash his camera.
That DeWalt drill entered in "Self Destruction Attempt". Luckily, it survived!
You know something its not a good idea when the person doing it says it before!
Grind hard plumbing wants to race your buggy when your done
They could build one better
Someones going on a road trip
I approve this message! 👍👍
When did they say that ?
Ah hah
Love the out takes, real life happens. Another outstanding video.
Next build: MASSIVE MONSTER TRUCK BUILD / pt 1.
With a 212 motor from harbor freight 😂 lol
@@gokartbob6478 haha, of course!!
Nah, more like BUILD / pt 1000000000
And 15 inch turf tires.
After that plastic tension roller.. Eats it's self, a bearing mounted idle sprocket is cheap and reliable..
My plastic wheel lasted 15 minutes.. :-)
Depends heavily on the type of plastic used, some will hold up much better than others.
However I definitely agree, a bearing mounted sprocket is a far better solution.
You might want to rethink the torsional strength of that chain tensioner if you solid mount it. That huge v engine will have a ton of compression braking. ALL of that force will be directly applied to that tensioner. And with spring tension, I think it's one hard downshift away from piling the chain into the engine case. TBH if you had a double roller on the same arm, but the other roller above the top drive chain; then you wouldn't get a load of slack up top when compression braking. Then you could keep what you already have. I'm not being a naysayer. Your projects are rad and well thought out.
B Curtis
Here to confirm heavy compression braking needs to be accounted for 🤓
If i lived near you I would absolutely LOVE to help you out with your projects and hold things for you, you seriously need an assistant at crucial parts.
I very rarely knock someone's work and I am not doing it now, I will, however, advise you put an X brace in the back of the roll cage and for the love of all things rearward facing ... please make sure you put floor pans in under the seats, I have witnessed first hand the mess it makes of (luckily) just a seat when you get a branch bounce under the vehicle from one of the front tyres then dig in as the vehicle goes over it, if someone had been sitting in that seat at the time they would have been skewered like a shish kebab.
Keep up the good work, this little buggy is going to be epic.
ROTFLMFAO drill flying around epic. Glad ya didn't get to hurt though lol
You are an awesome fabricator/welder! Mesmerized watching you work, a real talent.
Wow, this thing is finally getting together. Amazing
Oh,Our GOD!That last clip almost killed me.I have 2 broken ribs,and when that drill was spinning...
Awesome build again Chris.That really looks tough enough to off-road race,even.I'd suggested the Chainfall to make lifting and turning your frames easier.A couple strips of angle steel, bolted to your roof joists, and you can lift the buggy with motor.
That ending scene was awesome haha
Hope you have a wonderful time in Oregon.........
Just finished watching you 670 build with the semi independent suspension. You killed it. Really cool man.
Mate, pleasure watching you work.
Few things though....
1. The floor pan ends before your butt and all that's protecting you from a spiky rock to the groin are those plastic seats. Might want to extend the floor....
2. Why bolt the floor down? Rivets would be lighter and easier.
3. I have to echo about the chain tensioner. To close to the rear sprocket. I'm not opposed to making it out of Nylon though, but it needs to be more central if you can package it.
Can't wait to see it finished! Until then please make sure you have an exit strategy when you spin the wheels. You had pretty much nowhere to go if the wheels had been out of balance and jumped the chassis of the sawhorses.
Very MOTIVATIONAL videos!!!
The "ahhhhhhh" at the end had me in stitches.
Subscribed...
Tip for the cv axle’s if you have trouble,
if you remove the boot clips pull back the boot take out grease the centre shaft will come out of the cv joint itself c clipped in splined on the ends that enters the cv joint, you have the tools and brain to just make a complete solid shaft
Joint to joint 👍🏻
Double the ceiling 2x4s with 2x6s and carry the load to the walls. Then you will be ready to lift the inevitable LS!
13:40 DID ANYONE ELSE HEAR AND SEE THE WOBBLE OF THE BRAKE DISC? AND HOW CLOSE THE INSIDE OF THE TIRE WAS TO THAT BRACKET? SOON AS HE HITS A BUMP.... THAT TIRE IS HITTING. STILL LOVE THE CHANNEL, AND AT LEAST YOU HAVE THE AMBITION TO DO A PROJECT LIKE THIS.... PROPS, ALL.THE WAY.
Man when your stood next to the buggy it looks huge
This is amazing man!!
Hahahahahahah the drill part moving the front wheel at the end was totally crazy 😂😂😂
LOL We saw that coming as soon as your drill quit on you the first time. I was yelling at the screen... "you better pull your drill off before you let go of the trigger or the tire will rip it from your hands!" Hahahaha!! That was funny!! thanks for adding that at the end!
I feel you pain working alone, too often I wish someone else was dealing with the camera and could help hold things!!! That drill motor almost took you for a ride, be careful. Keep it up man!!
I totally dig your channel. I live in Oregon. I was on my way to the gambler 500 and my gambler car blew up and now I can't go.
Good luck and "Always be Gambling"
off-road vehicles do not need a differential a lot of power is wasted through diffs that's why some cars have limited slip diffs great build loving it
By far my favorite UA-cam channel!!! I love love love how you explain everything out and aren't afraid to laugh at your mistakes. We're all learning and I truly enjoy your videos. Keep them coming the entertainment value is greatly appreciated!!!
I love the way this build looks so far
I love your videos man! Maybe its just me but id like to see more seat time. More vids of ya rippin the karts around
THAT ENDING!!!!! lmfao that was awesome. I just wish we knew how fast that tire was spinning. My guess, 65mph.
Just Incredible!!! I would pay like 4000 dollar for that thing its like expertly welded and crafted and it looks Beautiful!!!
He's spent a bit more than that on it and it still isn't done yet.
@@malcolmdavis506 ALRIGHT THEN BUDDY. jk but id still give him like 6 or 7 grand
I am now up to date with this build. Very cathartic watching all the lathe work.. funny you were sarcastic about looking forward to welding up the frame. And your channel is called... 😂😂 your awesome dude keep up the good work.
Can wait see the test drive.
cant wait to hear how this thing sounds
Hey man, I love the build. Great choice going with that engine btw! I just had a suggestion for your hoist that you have in the rafters. What you need to do is get either 3 - 2x4 by 12ft long boards, or, 1 4x6 by 12ft. You will also need some 90 degree twisted strong ties. 4 for each rafter that you cross. Along with that you will need some bolt on D-rings and some screws. For the 2x4s, you gotta do some clamping and gluing. Take two of them and glue them together. You will glue them like if you were stacking them. Then clamp it really well and screw them together to hold the boards tight together. Then take your 3rd one and glue it so it covers the seam, not the same way as before. Use a lot of glue to hold it well then use some 3" wood screws and screw it into the two that are already glued together. I suggest pilot drilling or use self tapping wood screws so the wood doesn't split. Then take your beam and get it up above the rafters. Position it so it is covering your work area and make sure its supported by as many rafters as possible. Then take your strong ties and use them to secure the beam to the rafters. Use one strong tie on each side of the beam AND each side of the rafter. Do this FOR EVERY RAFTER! You need to do this on each rafter so it will displace the weight across like 6-8 rafters. Once its locked down, take the d-rings and using 2" lag bolts, hold the d-ring up where you want it, mark the holes, pilot drill then bolt down the d-rings. I would install a d ring between every rafter except for the last one on each end. You can also use the rafter itself now, so if you just wanted to drill holes and lag bolt that piece of steel you used in this video, you could do that. The rafters being tied into the beam with the strong ties make it so if you pull down on one rafter, The other rafters will take up some of the weight just like if that was a hidden beam inside a house. Sometimes instead of doing an exposed beam in a home, they stick the beam above the rafters instead of under. Anyway, great work and maybe I'll see ya at the gambler!
Dude I am getting so fucking pumped for this build. Been watching since Pt1. Looking good!!
Heck yeah man you got a ton done to it,looks amazing
this is coming along very nicely well done and its not even close to being done yet and its looking awesome. i have an idea for a shifter for the trans, in that open section in between the two floor pans make a raised up piece like a square-ish transmission tunnel and make a shifter like a sequential trans' shifter.
When i watch your video i take popcorn because i realy like what you do
Nice work! That thing is a beast. Can't wait to see it in action.
The trusses in your ceiling aren't meant to be stressed like that, be careful using them for lifting stuff. Nice job on the buggy.
The importance of utilising mock up parts when you're welding, they don't have to be the same part just hold the steel etc in its running/operating position in place of the part.
Looking forward to seeing this now you're going with a more suitable engine and I think you're most likely right on the drive shafts but I really don't think they'll fail that soon if you're not going too silly in it which is difficult for anyone when it's a ton of fun.
Amazing work! Only thing I really wish you would put a set of truck 33 inch tires on the rear. But that's it!!😀😀😀
I love how all the videos start 😂
"TODAY"
Chainfall is what it is called if you work for a living. You've needed that for years.
The end was awesome..that thing needs a 8 or 10 inch lift with 37's or 40's
That was COOL!! Nice tire balancing testing, LOL.
My second time watching the series. I forgot how funny the ending was!
If you use a one way bearing and make an adapter or coupler you could go full speed safely with the drill. Hint; They use them in pull starters and clutches...
I can't wait to see how will the gear works !
I liked this video, it was funny, especially with the drill bit at the end, seems like something i'd try
Totally thought you were gonna eat that drill!!!. Pull out under load, don't let off your trigger finger.
Hey, the roof is bending!😂😂lol
I’m enjoying watching, thanks for posting
Im french and i like your video, even if i don't understand some explications 👌
that's because you're French. Too much inbreeding in France...
I think because off the way you engineerd the rear links that the spindles are going to rotate when you rear brake or floor it.i can be wrong..keep up the work.i like it
Awesome! Can’t say I agree with the chain tensioner as I think it may snap!
Looks like it'll be done soon!
I really love this build but I would really add a couple things to it. 1st extend the floor pan to the center and under the seats. This would prevent intrusion from under the vehicle into to cabin. A large rock or stump will break those seats and could cause injury. 2nd you really really need a firewall between the cabin and that engine. That is just a normal safety measure. 3rd when you install the pedals you should put a front firewall and side protection panels on it. I know karts tend not to have these types of safety measures but buggies do. Prevention of flying debris entering the cabin is super important in off-road types of vehicles. A little sheet metal goes along way to preventing injuries. May even think about a plan windscreen and some side window nets. I know it maybe overkill but with all this work why compromise on saftey?
Very cool. Build. I have noticed that your front wheels are turning out of round and wobbling and a little with the rear axle as well. If they were perfectly round axles and hubs. They would drag evenly on your brake pads and you would hear the brake pads scrape just a little all the way around its full turn. If you notice in your video they only drag or scrape in different parts of the rotation. You can see the wobble pretty bad if you look at the drivers side front rotor when you spin it after you mounted the wheel.
Not a big deal but over 60 mph you could develop what they call death wobble. Where it shakes so bad you have to stop the vehicle before it shakes apart brakes or otherwise causes an accident.
Then again could just be the brake calipers you made. It seems like they werent perfectly squared or centered. Maybe put them on the lathe and spend some time dialing them in square and centered with a dial indicator and then turn down the face and the outside radius and see if that helps.
Another great episode, it's great to see the progression, also the mistakes, keeping it real 😁
Good luck with that chain tensioner !
This channel deserves more subs
Dude youre a beast doing this stuff alone. Nice work & builds man!
Spinning the tire was Awesome
Ending was awesome. I’ve done similar things!!!
Nice job! IMO Since it doesn’t appear to have any diff I really think your going to want to sleeve those axles instead... trust me 😆
Personally I don't think it's going to hold even with the sleeve. Spring Steel it'll snap at at the weld right after it plunges into the CV spool.
Dude looking wicked
This build is so damn impressive i am speechless. Can you send you playlist? Love the music!
Seriously mad skills ! Hooking up with grind hard would be cool.
Dude your awesome, its amazing what you do by yourself. Imagine what you could do when you get a shop? 👍
Yeah, "it's probably not a good idea"... Glad you still have all of your pieces parts.
I think the front brake calipers will hit the wheel when you put brake pads in it. Making good progress though! Thank you for sharing. 👍😁
Can't wait to see this thing go
Hahaha i loved the little bloopers at the end
The part where he said if you see the roof bend let me know was like the first funny thing he’s ever said to me BAHA
Was watching at the end thinking that's a good way to break your wrist and close . LOL
Clicked so fast😂💨💨
What a beast of a machine.
She's getting there👍
This thing is going to be sweet
😂 nice blooper at the end, can't wait to hear it start
Nice work dude.
I would love to see it drive before June 15
I love ur builds bro everything is from scratch
A lot of work going into what your doing. Great Job. God Bless
At the end there spinning the wheel with the drill.. yeah you want like a one way bearing for that😁
I gotta say, that was pretty funny at the end, with the drill. Next time, try compressed air. You don't have to touch the wheel.
you can probably reinforce the rooftrusses a little by adding extra 2 by 4's to the sides and bolt those together like a sandwish , think you get more use out of the chainhoist that using the garage crane , it takes less space too
Great build friend
Just saying, I would have sleeved the welds on the rear cv axles. Just to be safe
Man I love you and your videos. You're that guy you know
But please be more careful
Oh wow I was waiting for the broken wrist!
18:24 ... Get yourself a couple podger ratchets (or wrenches)..
They have a spike on the end so you can jab them in holes and pry around until your holes line up. (We use them on metal buildings.. you're always fighting beams, they never line up)
Gotta have some corn fed friends like myself to come "cherry pick" that engine for you lmao
Amazing skill
looks lke your gonna need a bigger shed soon bud. keep up the good work and thanks for the inspiration
It's much easier to cut the drive shafts and re spline the end to make the length you want. Many engineering shops will do it fairly cheaply if they can index of the original splines. Once welded they will lose most of their strength as they are specially heat treated to maximise torque yield strength.
Still, your welds looked good, maybe a press fit sleeve over the top to increase radius of the joint..