*DAY-amn* that's fast! Somebody needs to remix the shell to make it a 'Bugatti Voron'! Now do some of the FullControl GCODE demo prints to *REALLY* open it up!
@@KeithOlson Hey Keith, actually I thought about that for some time already :) I dig "Bugatti Voron" :D. What do you mean with FullControl GCODE demos ?
@@247printing It is basically a GCODE creator unlike anything else available today. Thomas Sanladerer just did a piece on it, (ua-cam.com/video/ZgytQDoaD5M/v-deo.html) Here is an intro to how it works: ua-cam.com/video/yGtyw3oLOVQ/v-deo.html As Thomas points out, having the software output just the GCODE to create the piece (instead of modelling then slicing it) can *seriously* speed up print time. (In the case of a battery holder that Thomas designed, a two hour print from a normal workflow only took half an hour to print when created using FCG.)
This is why I love open-source projects. With the introduction of the speed boat race ive seen cheap home printers go from 150mm/s to 1000 in the course of a year or 2
@@littlesnowflakepunk855 oh yeah ofc. It's like buying a nice drone you definitely get what you pay for. However $2000 today can be stretched soooo much farther. I mean they got ender 3s running silently at 300mm/s with just a firmware and driver update too
@@mhgscrubadub9917 $2000 is pretty steep even for a voron 2.4. They have plenty of printer designs with varying costs. My voron 2.4 at 350^3 volume came out to a total of about $1780. If you source parts well 1500 and under is possible with a 300^3 volume and cheaper depending on which voron you build.
you mean dot matrix printer (needle). Inkjets never sounded this way and never took minutes for one Sheet of Paper. :-D But yeah my Olivetti 9 Needle Printer sounds like this one 😀
Hey Keith, thanks for stopping by :) And thanks a lot for your kind words! I blame the #speedboatrace for all this!!! New speedboat soon, can't wait...
As an engineering student in my last year, the amount of control and tuning that goes into each system in the printer is astounding. Good mechanical, thermal and control systems (pressure advance/input shaper) goes to show whats possible. Thanks for sharing.
@@owowowdhxbxgakwlcybwxsimcwx its not about the speed, but the acceleration. Your print basically never reaches the speed you specified unless its a massive long line with minimal direction changes
Absolutely awesome, in the truest sense of the definition of awesome. I wouldn’t mind paying to get a detailed parts list to clone that beautiful machine in all its glory.
Hey Theodore! THANKS a lot for this awesome comment... The upgrades I made to the V0 will be released (BOM / STLs) and I'll explain the process, but I won't charge people for this :)
Thanks a lot, I hope there are many people using my mods soon - that’s the very best reward… Money comes and goes. Concerning charging for designs: There might be a point when the efforts for achieving the designs are so high that you HAVE to charge to survive. But I am not at that point yet - I have fun and I hope you’ll have also.
@@247printing just got my first printer (Ender 3 V2) and know for certain that my addiction has started. A rocket sled Voron, likely your spec, is not too far in the future :) Thank you so much for the posts and inspiration
Holy hell. This print speed and an actually acceptable print quality for a lot of applications. I've ordered a voron0 and the parts you specified, will obviously be testing it out before modifying it but I'm sure as heck ready to start modding something else than an ender3 v2 - and a bit quicker too :)
That’s a great tradeoff for speed versus visual quality and functional quality: certainly not like the Yoda print for visuals, but it functionally appears to be as perfect as needed. I’d be curious to know if the part had some thermal shrinkage after you assembled it into place, as you wasted no time taking it off to let it cool: I’d expect it hadn’t fully contracted, and that sucker is a TIGHT install.
This is inspiring. Thanks for the vid as always 👍 I think it's be awesome to see it print different types of infill with no walls to see the speed and quality 🤪 I'd like to add tolerance tests to the request
Printer does not work right now as a connection from Raspi to Mainbaord can not be established anymore so your videos are perfect for soothing the soul when I desperately need some printer noise for mental well being. Am autistic and the printer sounds are somehow very good for the mind :) Thank you for going close with the camera to the printer as it makes the sounds extra flavorful as distance and location of the mic/ear makes it even more soothing :) 💖
can you publish more detailed instructions on your build modifications, how did you exactly got there? Just to make sure we can get there also and the right parts to purchase
I just discovered this after seeing the crazy fast benchy print, and I'm incredibly impressed at how good the quality is for that speed...it's making me wonder what the maximum speed of my stock Ender 3 is lol
Very cool! Now, if you haven't already done so, please open a shop where I can buy this printer fully modded and tuned with profiles for a variety of filaments and take my money please.
Theodore... That's a complicated point here. I gotta have an own naming and I talked to the Voron about that! We agreed that I need a clear differentiation from the Voron pattern! Still no clue how to name my race car :)
@@247printing Voron 0 - Supersonic ;P But a good question actually. As with 3D printers speed and precision is not divided in clear steps but maybe right now is the time to establish some criteria/terminology like tolerance levels in bearings or the car performance tags like GT, M3, S4 etc which gives some indication of what kind of performance you expect. I have a good feeling that the 3dp communities can find out some common ground where it could be tiered like in games with T1, T2 etc or some different tags that tell the capabilities. Print duration and dimensional accuracy would be easier to clarify than for example surface finish. A „pro“ model could be like a pristine benchy in 10 minutes. But that also depends a lot on just part cooling itself. Right now the print speed declarations of companies like 250 mm/s only indicates the max flow rate, but nothing about acceleration, dimensional accuracy, surface finish through resonance and cooling. What are your thoughts about this topic? I am very interested in it as you have daily contact with printers that are fast AND precise on a level that most in the scene don’t reach or comprehend (like me who is always in awe watching these videos :D), meaning the struggle to achieve that themselves limited through knowledge, experience and resources like access to tools and necessary finances. When Klipper with resonance compensation and good cooling like yours becoming more of a standard in high speed printers we could have a chance to standardize some terminology to make it easier to distinguish performance levels. Or it just unlocks the next crazy level and we will just continue until we reach the speed of light :D Cheers :)
This was your best quality vs speed print. That's quite enough. No need for increasing speed, only I'd you can keep up with same quality. Can you share the exact stl file you used and printing configs? I would like to get something as a ground zero for me to get in the competition. This seems like a nice part to serve as a test object as it serves a functional utility and it has a lot of long lines around it so It can stress test most of the usual situations we encounter when 3d printing parts. Obviously I won't be able to get even near your feeds and speeds but that will serve as a nice material for a video. I won't forget to mention you and this youtube video link, as I think it is one of the bast welcome cards for someone who is entering your channel for the first time.
Maybe you could optimize the process by changing the wall line count to a higher number so that the infill is not the 45 degree angled but like the wall contour. I imagine it to be a lot faster because less direction changing.
holy crap that thing is tiny. didn't realize until you pulled the plate.. hahaha and love the fan setup.! I'm building a big boy, but that's quite neat, removes it from the head and provides insane cooling I bet.
Only very little cooling here, speed helps to keep the internal stresses low and ABS+ works quite well not warping unenclosed. Never the less I had some issues with warping when testing. Was a bit of tweaking to get it done halfway properly ☺️
hello great job you did! I would like to know if this project is scalable for a 350x350mm print area. I think a larger area would need to be expanded cooling performance. I keep following your project
Thanks a lot! The cooling concept used here (no blowers on the toolhead, external only) might not work as is on a big surface printer. Thanks for following!
Oh and concerning a big printer: For this case I built a V-Core-3 (Rat Rig) to work on concepts for Motion, Cooling and Extrusion in order to go faster at quality.
probably not. different materials have different temperature and cooling requirements. higher temp means layers need more time to cool before a new layer can be deposited on top, meaning you need longer layer times in order to get proper adhesion. i believe this is printing abs+ which is relatively low-temp and relatively forgiving in terms of cooling.
This might sound like a stupid question or even a stupid statement but I have an Ender 3 Max I can print is about 150 mm II after everything I've done to it was wondering about fine detail and Fast Printing if you can't do that I use a point to mmmm nozzle to do rings and fine details for making coins and things but now I'm looking for a rapid type things and slaa is too expensive for something I'm just going to melt anyway doing lost pla casting and we wonder if if I could print something that fast but do something with detail with a tiny nozzle if you're capable of doing something like that that be a great video I'm on the fence about getting a voron in one instance I'd love it four big parts maybe even better if it did small complicated parts if not I understand why temperature control would be something that would be really hard to get right
I don't want to offend you, but reading/understanding your comment was VERY difficult for me (no punctuation marks). With tiny nozzles you add more back pressure to the extrusion system with might be the next problem you'd encounter at speed. Additionally your cooling and motion system still has to very capable to reach the speed and cool down the melted plastic. Thanks a lot mate for your kind words.
@@247printing I apologize. Was walking my dog and voice typing. Apparently it doesn't know punctuation. I was asking if you can print fine detail parts fast like that. I make jewelry and use a . 2mm to get the details. Fastest I can get my ender 3 all modded up is 100mm/s. Can the voron print tiny details that fast?
while watchin i got an idea, try the bernard system (probably wrong name) but first cry the air first, then pass it through a peltier cooler to cool the air, also use insulation or the cooling is useless! (probably is when the air reaches the hot end) it might make the print head lighter. you can also try the rotary extruder too.
I builded a voron 2.4 and i Love my machine. Although it is quite fast...... No shit i cant compare to your racing killing machine! Nice Job! Awesome! Love watching this
This is a question asked very often. The belts are no problem so far - the X-rail is the only part that had play after five months of abusive printing :)
Hey there What is it that makes this printer so fast? I’m trying to improve my little ender 3 (I know it’ll never be this quick) but really having limited success. I’ve got upgraded motors, volcano hotend, bigger part cooling, new control board but not much different to stock. Pulling my hair out a bit lol just can’t work it out. Would love a bit of your knowledge if you can.
Me upgrading my ender 3: Wow 18 Minute benchy! Me looking at your printer: Oh my god my printer is so slow... Great build man, i cant get enough of this machine!
Nitram did a 18min. benchy on 100% stock Ender3. Dalegaard from the speedprinting community did a 05:3x benchy on a extreme mod of the Ender 3. But still 18min. is really great!
Is there a chance you'll make a V0 build guide? I'm certain many people would absolutely love to see a guide from someone who has achieved such speed and precision
Maybe I’ll do that as I think it’s absolutely doable and it’s interesting. I really have to consider how to actually spam my channel with print tests (it’s also a lot of time involved to test, record and edit these prints)
Yes consecutive is possible, the motors are actively cooled. Nevertheless the x-rail and the Hemera bowden adapter are the parts which showed wear after six months of going crazy.
It probably ignores the gcode and prints fast anyway :P But wondering myself if there would be a actually distinguishable difference from high speed to more „conservative“.
Awesome technical demonstration! I'm assuming the reason you're doing 0.1mm layer height for this model is the flow rate being limited. Keeping that in mind, wouldn't the print turn out better doing 0.15 or 0.2mm layer height and reducing the speed to get the same flow rate? (I know this video is not about that, but for functional parts this seems more appropriate)
@@247printing of course, but especially in the inflill of the arms this would increase your print time significantly since you're just acceleration limited there. Maybe reduce it for the perimiters and keep it higher for the infill. (not sure which slicer you use, but PrusaSlicer lets you define acceleration for each feature type)
I see you know all the tricks :) IdeaMaker helps a lot with this, I am really looking forward to tune the profile for a qualtiy print! Even for this print: With more time for optimization I strongly guess it can be faster at higher quality. Biggest problem was pressure advance / smooth time here.
@@247printing yea, I'm always amazed how much you can gain with just some settings optimized. I bet at these speeds pressure advance and input shaper become even more important, or even a necessity.
@@247printing how do you go about smooth time with pressure advance? Tried to tinker with it but still don’t know what direction is the right one to adjust 😅
The bed surely is a bottleneck here... I am wondering if it helps to print the mounting from Carbon Fiber (PET). Additionally I try the "Kirigami" bed (sheet metail design, Voron group order). Printing ABS+(!) unenclosed is no problem on my printers - except for the fumes I can't stand.
That's great results. My selfbuild core xy is sady limited to about 60mm/s because the E3D V6 Lite I used just can't handle more materialflow without weakening the layer adhesion by alot. Hot are those side mounted fans working out for you?
Thanks a lot mate! I guess your CoreXY is capable for a lot more 👍 The external cooling works good so far, but I have to do more testing on different materials and objects.
@@futuremapper_ it affects the flow because the plastic doesn't get to melt before it touches the nozzle, especially with ptfe lined heatbreaks. as the plastic you're melting also is more of an isolator rather than a conductor of heat it needs time to get everything molten properly before it gets to the end of the nozzle that's why i run Volcano or higher flow only i would personally never go back to a normal V6 heatblock, heck even the Trianglelab dragon HF i got i've upgraded with a "MF Crazy Volcano" heatblock so it's double HF sorta lol it also took me a long time to find a bimetal heatbreak for my Hemera (found one from ZoDIAC), bimetal heatbreaks with copper in the heatblock side will actually increase flow aswell i also only run copper heatblocks, because it conducts heat better and they can take more powerful heaters.
They fitted all - but two are enough to hold it and I had the wrong screw driver for one of them. I didn't plan to use the very first take of the recording for this video, but it was already good enough (other wise I'd change the screw).
Being able to hear the noises your printer is making at speed has eased some of my paranoia about the rattles and rail noises i hear as i speed mine up.😊
Have you shared the printed parts for the print head? I was considering using an LGX in Bowden to feed a hotend similar to yours. This is a fantastic design! Amazing print quality for this speed!
I have not shared my designs yet, but if you want to go for bowden look at the V0.0 branch on Voron GitHub (I think even for the 0.1 there is a bowden option)
With the added weight you'll not be able to do the accelerations to reach the 1000mm/s and quality would suffer even more. But you still can go fast on a V0.1 with DD extruder!
Quality/functional check at around 11:00 ☺️👍
*DAY-amn* that's fast! Somebody needs to remix the shell to make it a 'Bugatti Voron'! Now do some of the FullControl GCODE demo prints to *REALLY* open it up!
@@KeithOlson Hey Keith, actually I thought about that for some time already :) I dig "Bugatti Voron" :D. What do you mean with FullControl GCODE demos ?
@@247printing It is basically a GCODE creator unlike anything else available today. Thomas Sanladerer just did a piece on it, (ua-cam.com/video/ZgytQDoaD5M/v-deo.html) Here is an intro to how it works: ua-cam.com/video/yGtyw3oLOVQ/v-deo.html As Thomas points out, having the software output just the GCODE to create the piece (instead of modelling then slicing it) can *seriously* speed up print time. (In the case of a battery holder that Thomas designed, a two hour print from a normal workflow only took half an hour to print when created using FCG.)
This is why I love open-source projects. With the introduction of the speed boat race ive seen cheap home printers go from 150mm/s to 1000 in the course of a year or 2
vorons arent exactly cheap tbh
That’s true and you have to build them for yourself. But you really get what you pay for
@@littlesnowflakepunk855 oh yeah ofc. It's like buying a nice drone you definitely get what you pay for. However $2000 today can be stretched soooo much farther. I mean they got ender 3s running silently at 300mm/s with just a firmware and driver update too
@@mhgscrubadub9917 $2000 is pretty steep even for a voron 2.4. They have plenty of printer designs with varying costs. My voron 2.4 at 350^3 volume came out to a total of about $1780. If you source parts well 1500 and under is possible with a 300^3 volume and cheaper depending on which voron you build.
@@littlesnowflakepunk855 TRY RAILCORE FOR EVEN MORE DOLLARS THEY ARE CHEAP
Why even keep the filament in a drybox? it's not even gonna have enough time to get humid at that consumption rate
Crazy speed! This takes me back to when inkjet printers sounded like this, taking many minutes to print a simple black text document 😀
Exactly this!
you mean dot matrix printer (needle). Inkjets never sounded this way and never took minutes for one Sheet of Paper. :-D But yeah my Olivetti 9 Needle Printer sounds like this one 😀
brings a tear to my eye, you've truly done an excellent job with this platform. The bad ass sheet cooling is just :chefkiss:
Hey Keith, thanks for stopping by :) And thanks a lot for your kind words! I blame the #speedboatrace for all this!!! New speedboat soon, can't wait...
@@247printing I always blame #speedboatrace
As an engineering student in my last year, the amount of control and tuning that goes into each system in the printer is astounding. Good mechanical, thermal and control systems (pressure advance/input shaper) goes to show whats possible. Thanks for sharing.
Me: looking at my Ender3.
My Ender3: Don´t you even dare take me higher than 80mm/s -.-
I run mine at 100-110. Is that bad?
@@owowowdhxbxgakwlcybwxsimcwx its not about the speed, but the acceleration. Your print basically never reaches the speed you specified unless its a massive long line with minimal direction changes
Ender-7 run 250mm/s with very high quality.
My Ender3Pro (TMC2208 drivers) with Klipper FW running 150mm/s happily. (around 2500m/s acceleration)
In my own speedboat race submission I ran 325mm/s with 30K Accel, the Ender 3 Will happily do it... the hotend however, no.
You did it man! Hyper fast, nice and functional! Awesome job! congrats and keep it up! :)
Thanks a lot Olivier, it’s always a highlight for me when you’re stopping by 🤩
You have been quite inspiring also.
I love it! Usually these high speed runs result in a vaguely Benchy-shaped blob of spaghetti, this is actually a good usable part.
Thanks Dan - I also was quite surprised how it came out, but infill and solid infill are a mess… need to sacrifice some time for quality
And this is why I don't regret buying a V0 kit for me.
I can't fucking wait for it to arrive !
V0 are wonderful as a project and workhorse for smaller prints. You won't regret it!
Straight up insane!
Absolutely awesome, in the truest sense of the definition of awesome. I wouldn’t mind paying to get a detailed parts list to clone that beautiful machine in all its glory.
Hey Theodore! THANKS a lot for this awesome comment... The upgrades I made to the V0 will be released (BOM / STLs) and I'll explain the process, but I won't charge people for this :)
@@247printing I really love and admire you commitment to keeping this open source!
Thanks a lot, I hope there are many people using my mods soon - that’s the very best reward… Money comes and goes. Concerning charging for designs: There might be a point when the efforts for achieving the designs are so high that you HAVE to charge to survive. But I am not at that point yet - I have fun and I hope you’ll have also.
@@247printing just got my first printer (Ender 3 V2) and know for certain that my addiction has started. A rocket sled Voron, likely your spec, is not too far in the future :)
Thank you so much for the posts and inspiration
Holy hell. This print speed and an actually acceptable print quality for a lot of applications. I've ordered a voron0 and the parts you specified, will obviously be testing it out before modifying it but I'm sure as heck ready to start modding something else than an ender3 v2 - and a bit quicker too :)
Thanks a lot for commenting here! Looking very much forward to what you can do with the Zero - keep us all updated !
That’s a great tradeoff for speed versus visual quality and functional quality: certainly not like the Yoda print for visuals, but it functionally appears to be as perfect as needed. I’d be curious to know if the part had some thermal shrinkage after you assembled it into place, as you wasted no time taking it off to let it cool: I’d expect it hadn’t fully contracted, and that sucker is a TIGHT install.
EWURAZI!!! This is phat, slick and bombastic!!!! Am certainly subscribing on the fly! Can't wait for more videos...
The motors afterwards:🔥🔥🔥
Actively cooled, no problems so far (max temp between 45-50°C)
This is inspiring. Thanks for the vid as always 👍 I think it's be awesome to see it print different types of infill with no walls to see the speed and quality 🤪 I'd like to add tolerance tests to the request
Thanks a lot mate! I keep your suggestions in mind for the "real videos" coming... some time... and don't use the word "soon" anymore :)
That is really fast. and easy complex print not just sqare or circle. BRAVO!!!!!
Thanks mate!
DUUUDE That's insanity!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Totally changed the way look at my printer. Keep up!!!
Thanks a lot Christiano!
is that thing moving on an core-xy system or just teleporting to where it wants to end its line?
Printer does not work right now as a connection from Raspi to Mainbaord can not be established anymore so your videos are perfect for soothing the soul when I desperately need some printer noise for mental well being. Am autistic and the printer sounds are somehow very good for the mind :)
Thank you for going close with the camera to the printer as it makes the sounds extra flavorful as distance and location of the mic/ear makes it even more soothing :)
💖
Wow, it’s an honor to read that! Honestly! Thanks a lot for watching and commenting 🤩
@@247printing :)
In Good News the printer runs again, it was all a single line I forgot to comment out. Classic :D
@@chaicracker Yay! Keep it up bro!
I can watch this on repeat for a whole day. Great work! Darn that is fast!
Thanks a lot Mikael! I strongly recommend to loop it :))))
I like the noctua-brown color and it is nice to see what is possible when it comes to speed...
Thank you mate!
Oh my, do I feel jealous!? That machine is amazing!
Thanks a lot Joseph!!!
if you go around frame by frame using `,` and `.` around 1:26 you can see the sensor being scanned from top to bottom from the tilt
I am interested in this Max, but I don’t get it tbh 😢
Brings a whole new meaning to "rapid prototyping"!!!
this is oddly, very satisfying to watch
I kept thinking the video was sped up and then was repeatedly blown away every time i realized it wasnt
can you publish more detailed instructions on your build modifications, how did you exactly got there? Just to make sure we can get there also and the right parts to purchase
There is a video on my channel - I published the files, instructions and BOM - 247zero BETA1
I’m enjoying following this project. I’ve been hesitant to jump into a Voron build, but maybe yours ill win me over.
Thanks a lot John! I hope to read you again and to see you on the 247printing Discord server :) Have fun building your Voron (if)!
@247Printing, could you try a speed print with pla wood filament?
This sounds interesting hmmmmmm ☺️
Awesome desk ornamental looking glass mate!! With the duck 😂👌
Haha, someone realized my efforts in decorating :D Thanks a lot!!!
you should try putting some broken carbide end mills or inserts under the bed so it vibrates less, same with the axis extrustions
I just discovered this after seeing the crazy fast benchy print, and I'm incredibly impressed at how good the quality is for that speed...it's making me wonder what the maximum speed of my stock Ender 3 is lol
Will my ender do the same if i feed it cocain filament?
I see the hemera works well as a bowden extruder too
It's so fast... Unbelievable
Thanks Naidta, very much appriciated!
my Printer: Best I can do is 120 mm/s
Voron V0: I'm about to end this mans whole career
"The problem of being faster than light is that you can only live in darkness." -SonicTheFastBoi
Hi! What is the need for the raspberry PI in this project?
I printed that holder (which is used on the Voron0.0) as an example for a functional complex print - no project involved
Those side fans are sweet!
DAAAAAAMN!!!! Very interested in this setup. Would love to learn how you built and set this up. Want to build one of my own 👍👍. We’ll done sir.
Thanks! Next video 🤓
how do you regulate cooling at the layers that are faster to print?
Very cool! Now, if you haven't already done so, please open a shop where I can buy this printer fully modded and tuned with profiles for a variety of filaments and take my money please.
That's a great idea and I calculated a business case for this: Would not be worth the efforts to sell it for a reasonable price :/
It is no longer the Voron 0, it is now ‘Voron 247’.
Theodore... That's a complicated point here. I gotta have an own naming and I talked to the Voron about that! We agreed that I need a clear differentiation from the Voron pattern! Still no clue how to name my race car :)
@@247printing Voron 0 - Supersonic ;P
But a good question actually. As with 3D printers speed and precision is not divided in clear steps but maybe right now is the time to establish some criteria/terminology like tolerance levels in bearings or the car performance tags like GT, M3, S4 etc which gives some indication of what kind of performance you expect. I have a good feeling that the 3dp communities can find out some common ground where it could be tiered like in games with T1, T2 etc or some different tags that tell the capabilities.
Print duration and dimensional accuracy would be easier to clarify than for example surface finish. A „pro“ model could be like a pristine benchy in 10 minutes. But that also depends a lot on just part cooling itself.
Right now the print speed declarations of companies like 250 mm/s only indicates the max flow rate, but nothing about acceleration, dimensional accuracy, surface finish through resonance and cooling.
What are your thoughts about this topic? I am very interested in it as you have daily contact with printers that are fast AND precise on a level that most in the scene don’t reach or comprehend (like me who is always in awe watching these videos :D), meaning the struggle to achieve that themselves limited through knowledge, experience and resources like access to tools and necessary finances.
When Klipper with resonance compensation and good cooling like yours becoming more of a standard in high speed printers we could have a chance to standardize some terminology to make it easier to distinguish performance levels. Or it just unlocks the next crazy level and we will just continue until we reach the speed of light :D
Cheers :)
@@247printing sorry for the wall of text. It was an exhausting day and I went overboard. Wish you a splendid day :)
247printing - Norov247?
@@chaicracker I also wish you all the best!
This was your best quality vs speed print. That's quite enough. No need for increasing speed, only I'd you can keep up with same quality. Can you share the exact stl file you used and printing configs? I would like to get something as a ground zero for me to get in the competition. This seems like a nice part to serve as a test object as it serves a functional utility and it has a lot of long lines around it so It can stress test most of the usual situations we encounter when 3d printing parts. Obviously I won't be able to get even near your feeds and speeds but that will serve as a nice material for a video. I won't forget to mention you and this youtube video link, as I think it is one of the bast welcome cards for someone who is entering your channel for the first time.
Increasing perimeters would give you faster speed times BUT this still is great comparison for non prefectly tuned gcode
what is the maximum flow rate with volcomosq hot block mod with ABS and PLA?
Depends on the temperatures, but up to 40 mm^3/s continuous is possible
I want to add your cooling to the mini-AB.
Maybe you could optimize the process by changing the wall line count to a higher number so that the infill is not the 45 degree angled but like the wall contour. I imagine it to be a lot faster because less direction changing.
Absolutely and I tried it - was 09:XXish
does it work with normal speed using volcomosq and nozzle 0.4 and the print quality is good?
holy crap that thing is tiny. didn't realize until you pulled the plate.. hahaha and love the fan setup.! I'm building a big boy, but that's quite neat, removes it from the head and provides insane cooling I bet.
Thank you very much - yeah it is really really small, but it can do a lot of jobs quickly :)
Good work!! Keep it up!! Perseverance will get the perfect print!!!
How does the ABS+ under that speed not warp am i asking? :)
Only very little cooling here, speed helps to keep the internal stresses low and ABS+ works quite well not warping unenclosed. Never the less I had some issues with warping when testing. Was a bit of tweaking to get it done halfway properly ☺️
[Using abs+]
Where can I find those static blower ducts you have on either side of the plate?
On my hard drive - I'll publish the mods all together when they are done :)
hello great job you did! I would like to know if this project is scalable for a 350x350mm print area.
I think a larger area would need to be expanded cooling performance.
I keep following your project
Thanks a lot! The cooling concept used here (no blowers on the toolhead, external only) might not work as is on a big surface printer. Thanks for following!
Oh and concerning a big printer: For this case I built a V-Core-3 (Rat Rig) to work on concepts for Motion, Cooling and Extrusion in order to go faster at quality.
I am waiting for the final V0 design before jumping in. But wondering if it is possible to print technical filament like CF nylon at these speeds?
probably not. different materials have different temperature and cooling requirements. higher temp means layers need more time to cool before a new layer can be deposited on top, meaning you need longer layer times in order to get proper adhesion. i believe this is printing abs+ which is relatively low-temp and relatively forgiving in terms of cooling.
I did a test on a benchy with Nylon and nylon cf - definitely needs at least a semi closed chamber and high speeds
This might sound like a stupid question or even a stupid statement but I have an Ender 3 Max I can print is about 150 mm II after everything I've done to it was wondering about fine detail and Fast Printing if you can't do that I use a point to mmmm nozzle to do rings and fine details for making coins and things but now I'm looking for a rapid type things and slaa is too expensive for something I'm just going to melt anyway doing lost pla casting and we wonder if if I could print something that fast but do something with detail with a tiny nozzle if you're capable of doing something like that that be a great video I'm on the fence about getting a voron in one instance I'd love it four big parts maybe even better if it did small complicated parts if not I understand why temperature control would be something that would be really hard to get right
I don't want to offend you, but reading/understanding your comment was VERY difficult for me (no punctuation marks). With tiny nozzles you add more back pressure to the extrusion system with might be the next problem you'd encounter at speed. Additionally your cooling and motion system still has to very capable to reach the speed and cool down the melted plastic. Thanks a lot mate for your kind words.
@@247printing I apologize. Was walking my dog and voice typing. Apparently it doesn't know punctuation. I was asking if you can print fine detail parts fast like that. I make jewelry and use a . 2mm to get the details. Fastest I can get my ender 3 all modded up is 100mm/s. Can the voron print tiny details that fast?
while watchin i got an idea, try the bernard system (probably wrong name) but first cry the air first, then pass it through a peltier cooler to cool the air, also use insulation or the cooling is useless! (probably is when the air reaches the hot end) it might make the print head lighter. you can also try the rotary extruder too.
What's the name of the fan shroud? Afterburner? It seems different than the standard model?
That's the package of my 247zeroBETA1 - I made a video about it 👍
Yeah I looked into it and it looks amazing! What about the model that came with fans instead? Thanks! That on e looks pretty cool too!
I builded a voron 2.4 and i Love my machine. Although it is quite fast...... No shit i cant compare to your racing killing machine! Nice Job! Awesome! Love watching this
Thanks a lot!!!
Do you ever have to replace the belts? If so, how often?
This is a question asked very often. The belts are no problem so far - the X-rail is the only part that had play after five months of abusive printing :)
How are you printing so fast with a bowden set-up? I don't understand.
Why not?
@@247printing I've never seen it and didn't know it was possible, great tuning.
@@timmturner Bowden has it's downsides for sure, but it's not as bad as those wanting to sell DirectDrive printers tell the customers :-)
What belt are you using , it doesn't look like a genuine gates belt??
These are „Ruthex“ belts - there should be a link in the description ☺️
Hey there
What is it that makes this printer so fast? I’m trying to improve my little ender 3 (I know it’ll never be this quick) but really having limited success. I’ve got upgraded motors, volcano hotend, bigger part cooling, new control board but not much different to stock. Pulling my hair out a bit lol just can’t work it out. Would love a bit of your knowledge if you can.
3:09 Now we know why it is so fast.
Yoda juice...
Great job! how much jerk for Y， sir？ And weight of Y.
Thanks a lot! Jerk is interpreted as „square corner velocity“ here on Klipper: it is at 20mm/s (Standard value is between 5-10mm/s)
Me upgrading my ender 3:
Wow 18 Minute benchy!
Me looking at your printer:
Oh my god my printer is so slow...
Great build man, i cant get enough of this machine!
Which upgrades did you put on your Ender 3 to print so fast? :O
18min benchy on ender 3 is actually godly
Nitram did a 18min. benchy on 100% stock Ender3. Dalegaard from the speedprinting community did a 05:3x benchy on a extreme mod of the Ender 3. But still 18min. is really great!
OOF :( pls, shiw me how fast you can print a prestine part
Is there a chance you'll make a V0 build guide? I'm certain many people would absolutely love to see a guide from someone who has achieved such speed and precision
Yes, I planned that (and then go further with the upgrades)! The LDO kit should arrive every day :)
hello sir where can I find files for part cooling ?
To be released soon - it’s not done yet ☺️👍
I’ve heard of rapid prototyping but this is crazy fast 💨
need to add some sort of bracing on the outside to add some rigidity
Absolutely! Kirigami Bed and some other bracing on the frame also 👍
Did there end up with some layer shifting. I thought i seen some.. couldn't tell.. love the speed now im determined to build one my self.. Great work
Now do it with curving overhangs (like a circle hole, no support) and bringing test! I like to see whether it will hit the print at that speed :D
Maybe I’ll do that as I think it’s absolutely doable and it’s interesting. I really have to consider how to actually spam my channel with print tests (it’s also a lot of time involved to test, record and edit these prints)
@@247printing don't worry take your time doing it :D
How fast can this thing build a voron 0?
Would be REALLY interesting to check out with a fast quality setting... Some parts are left to be printed for my V0.1!
Even slowing play ack speed to .25% the print still blurs as it speeds along. Good work!
Thanks a lot 🤩
can this thing print consecutive parts or does it require maintenance between runs bc of high loads?
Yes consecutive is possible, the motors are actively cooled. Nevertheless the x-rail and the Hemera bowden adapter are the parts which showed wear after six months of going crazy.
Wait so how come this doesn't need an enclosure for ABS?
Enclosure is not mandatory for ABS+ - if you can stand the smell and fumes (I can't...)
ok, how much to build one of these? I want one
Depends on your choices, I am at around 800€ meanwhile. Everything starts at vorondesign.com ☺️
How much did your hotend cost you? Is it the magnum plus?
It's a regular Magnum with Nitram Volcona heater block!
How does it print slowly?
It probably ignores the gcode and prints fast anyway :P
But wondering myself if there would be a actually distinguishable difference from high speed to more „conservative“.
High quality at still very high speeds is no problem - I’ll show on a benchy 👍
Awesome technical demonstration! I'm assuming the reason you're doing 0.1mm layer height for this model is the flow rate being limited. Keeping that in mind, wouldn't the print turn out better doing 0.15 or 0.2mm layer height and reducing the speed to get the same flow rate? (I know this video is not about that, but for functional parts this seems more appropriate)
You are ABSOLUTELY right, plus: reduce acceleration
@@247printing of course, but especially in the inflill of the arms this would increase your print time significantly since you're just acceleration limited there. Maybe reduce it for the perimiters and keep it higher for the infill. (not sure which slicer you use, but PrusaSlicer lets you define acceleration for each feature type)
I see you know all the tricks :) IdeaMaker helps a lot with this, I am really looking forward to tune the profile for a qualtiy print! Even for this print: With more time for optimization I strongly guess it can be faster at higher quality. Biggest problem was pressure advance / smooth time here.
@@247printing yea, I'm always amazed how much you can gain with just some settings optimized. I bet at these speeds pressure advance and input shaper become even more important, or even a necessity.
@@247printing how do you go about smooth time with pressure advance? Tried to tinker with it but still don’t know what direction is the right one to adjust 😅
So is this considered FDM or HSE like Essentium?
Still FDM :) But I just saw that this Essentium has quite similar properties concerning acceleration and speeds. Really cool!
how does it not overheat the motors!?
The motors are cooled by heatsinks and 5V fans
How does that cantilever bed deal with the vibration?
Also, how does that ABS act after printing if its not enclosed? Mine is brittle as hell
The bed surely is a bottleneck here... I am wondering if it helps to print the mounting from Carbon Fiber (PET). Additionally I try the "Kirigami" bed (sheet metail design, Voron group order). Printing ABS+(!) unenclosed is no problem on my printers - except for the fumes I can't stand.
My Ender 5 Pro bed is awful. Is there a dual Z mod for this printer?
Fantastic stuff…just amazing speeds!! Do you have the STLs for the raspberry pi frame and the base for the 2020 rail?
That's great results. My selfbuild core xy is sady limited to about 60mm/s because the E3D V6 Lite I used just can't handle more materialflow without weakening the layer adhesion by alot.
Hot are those side mounted fans working out for you?
Thanks a lot mate! I guess your CoreXY is capable for a lot more 👍 The external cooling works good so far, but I have to do more testing on different materials and objects.
i'd upgrade the heatsink and heatbreak to a real one, the Lite has a PTFE tube that gets up to the heater like in cheap printers like the Enders etc.
@@BH4x0r how does that affect flow?
@@futuremapper_ it affects the flow because the plastic doesn't get to melt before it touches the nozzle, especially with ptfe lined heatbreaks.
as the plastic you're melting also is more of an isolator rather than a conductor of heat it needs time to get everything molten properly before it gets to the end of the nozzle
that's why i run Volcano or higher flow only
i would personally never go back to a normal V6 heatblock, heck even the Trianglelab dragon HF i got i've upgraded with a "MF Crazy Volcano" heatblock so it's double HF sorta lol
it also took me a long time to find a bimetal heatbreak for my Hemera (found one from ZoDIAC), bimetal heatbreaks with copper in the heatblock side will actually increase flow aswell
i also only run copper heatblocks, because it conducts heat better and they can take more powerful heaters.
Insanely fast! So cool.
subbed because of the fast printer
Thanks a lot mate!
а высокую модель так же можно?
Wow, How much power (watts) does it draw at 1000mm/s vs original default speed?
Here I assume somewhere between 100W to 150W as long as the fans for the external static cooling are not active - at 100% they add around 200W.
This is the future
how is it that fast
any link to the part you printed? i'm curious how slow my slow wobbly rail printer will print this xD
Hey Amelia, I'll link the slicer profile and the part printed here soon. But you can find the RPI holder on Voron Github (a STL for the V0.0 branch).
This is the Bob Ross of 3d Printers.
Haha nice one - thanks mate!
were only 2 screws out of 4 were able to fit in?
They fitted all - but two are enough to hold it and I had the wrong screw driver for one of them. I didn't plan to use the very first take of the recording for this video, but it was already good enough (other wise I'd change the screw).
Being able to hear the noises your printer is making at speed has eased some of my paranoia about the rattles and rail noises i hear as i speed mine up.😊
Have you shared the printed parts for the print head? I was considering using an LGX in Bowden to feed a hotend similar to yours. This is a fantastic design! Amazing print quality for this speed!
I have not shared my designs yet, but if you want to go for bowden look at the V0.0 branch on Voron GitHub (I think even for the 0.1 there is a bowden option)
Are these high speeds and accelerations possible with light-weight direct-driver extruders like the orbiter?
With the added weight you'll not be able to do the accelerations to reach the 1000mm/s and quality would suffer even more. But you still can go fast on a V0.1 with DD extruder!
Did you get your v0.1 as a kit or sourced everything separately?
When I built it, there was the V0.0 and I went for a Formbot Kit, which was not best, but OK for the start.