I'm worried my drum assembly is sitting too high. Should the intermediate pressure plate touch the direct drum? e.g. if I turn the input shaft, the intermediate pressure plate nudges in that direction (until a tab stops it). This shows there is contact between top of direct drum and intermediate pressure plate. Thanks for any advice. I spent all day today stressing over this issue.
Hi Fred, my guess is that the forward clutch is not fully seated onto the hub - there may be one or two frictions still caught up and not fully splined. Pull the drums out and reinstall them - you may have to monkey with them to get the forward drum (or direct drum, if that's the problem) to fully seat.
What's the attachment that holds the transmission onto your engine stand? Looks like it makes rebuilding a lot easier. Was thinking about getting the 2K, folding, engine stand from Harbor Freight.
That's a holding fixture which you can purchase on eBay, Amazon, transmission parts supply houses, etc...I do have a stainless steel sleeve as part of that set up that actually retains the holding fixture, otherwise the inner diameter of the engine stand would be way too big for the fixture's outer diameter.
Just invest in the tooling - by the time you get done building out your wood stand, assuming it is built correctly so that it can adequately hold a 150+ lb transmission, you'll have more time, money and effort into it vs just buying the purpose built tools and those tools will last you the rest of your life. Besides, you have know way of knowing what the future will hold...I bought my first set of transmission tools thinking I'd use them once or twice as well but when I added up the tooling cost, it was still less than the labor cost to have someone else rebuild my transmission. This was over 10 years ago and I have done literally thousands of transmissions since then.
Hey man! We had put together a a turbo 350 transmission ourselves with new tci internals and ran into a problem. The transmission will shift from 2-3 but will not shift from 1-2. It’s like 1st gear was braking. When we would put it into first gear, the car wouldn’t even attempt to move. When we had took it apart, all we noticed was that we put the intermediate band in incorrectly (we had the loops in the opposite places). I was wondering if that could be the 1st gear issue or is there any other things we should check out before throwing transmission back in😂! Thanks
Hi Ray, thank you for watching! Any problems in reverse? I would check the forward clutch and drum as the band being installed backwards is not likely to be the problem. That band is just a breaking band for when in manual 2nd, not a shifting band. Also check the valve body (1-2 shift valve in particular), make sure none are binding or stuck. Also make sure the low roller one way clutch in the center support is in good shape (or replace it if not already done so, as a preventative measure against failure of the original which likely has high mileage). Those can fail from time to time.
@@nickstransmissions no problems with reverse, all gears work perfectly besides that damn 1st! I really appreciate your comment and your time for allowing me to pick at your brain a little man! I’ll be sure to check out all the locations listed and see what the verdict is. Thanks!
Jearl again lol. You said I a person can leave all check balls out except the modulator valve ball. Does that include that the reverse also can be left out? 4r100 will have no reverse if it's left out is why I ask. Finishing this 350 tranny right now.
That applies only to the th350. It is NOT applicable to any other transmission. 4r100s are a completely different transmission thus have completely different checkball requirements.
Are you building a performance-oriented transmission and running a high stall converter? If not, id keep all the check balls in to start then once its running and driving, make adjustments such as drilling the plate and removing check balls if/as you need to.
@@nickstransmissions its a stock tranny, just an old 86 pickup for a high school girl. I build transmissions after work every day and weekends and have for years. I have done only maybe 10 or so 350 trannies. Just don't see them much here, I know very little about them other than just stock applications.
If that's the case, keep it stock or mostly stock for now as all it needs to do is go down the road and behave normally. Since it's a pick up and you'll have decent ground clearance, i'd consider adding a deep aluminum pan to add some extra fluid capacity if there's room in the budget. Good luck with the build.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome and thank you for watching!
I'm worried my drum assembly is sitting too high. Should the intermediate pressure plate touch the direct drum? e.g. if I turn the input shaft, the intermediate pressure plate nudges in that direction (until a tab stops it). This shows there is contact between top of direct drum and intermediate pressure plate. Thanks for any advice. I spent all day today stressing over this issue.
Hi Fred, my guess is that the forward clutch is not fully seated onto the hub - there may be one or two frictions still caught up and not fully splined. Pull the drums out and reinstall them - you may have to monkey with them to get the forward drum (or direct drum, if that's the problem) to fully seat.
Thanks for your response!@@nickstransmissions
You're welcome, fred! Please subscribe if you haven't already - I'll be doing more TH350 and TH400 videos in the near future....
What's the attachment that holds the transmission onto your engine stand? Looks like it makes rebuilding a lot easier. Was thinking about getting the 2K, folding, engine stand from Harbor Freight.
That's a holding fixture which you can purchase on eBay, Amazon, transmission parts supply houses, etc...I do have a stainless steel sleeve as part of that set up that actually retains the holding fixture, otherwise the inner diameter of the engine stand would be way too big for the fixture's outer diameter.
Was considering building a stand out of wood before investing too much into additional tools I may not use often enough.
Just invest in the tooling - by the time you get done building out your wood stand, assuming it is built correctly so that it can adequately hold a 150+ lb transmission, you'll have more time, money and effort into it vs just buying the purpose built tools and those tools will last you the rest of your life. Besides, you have know way of knowing what the future will hold...I bought my first set of transmission tools thinking I'd use them once or twice as well but when I added up the tooling cost, it was still less than the labor cost to have someone else rebuild my transmission.
This was over 10 years ago and I have done literally thousands of transmissions since then.
Makes sense.
Hey man! We had put together a a turbo 350 transmission ourselves with new tci internals and ran into a problem. The transmission will shift from 2-3 but will not shift from 1-2. It’s like 1st gear was braking. When we would put it into first gear, the car wouldn’t even attempt to move. When we had took it apart, all we noticed was that we put the intermediate band in incorrectly (we had the loops in the opposite places). I was wondering if that could be the 1st gear issue or is there any other things we should check out before throwing transmission back in😂! Thanks
Hi Ray, thank you for watching!
Any problems in reverse?
I would check the forward clutch and drum as the band being installed backwards is not likely to be the problem. That band is just a breaking band for when in manual 2nd, not a shifting band. Also check the valve body (1-2 shift valve in particular), make sure none are binding or stuck. Also make sure the low roller one way clutch in the center support is in good shape (or replace it if not already done so, as a preventative measure against failure of the original which likely has high mileage). Those can fail from time to time.
@@nickstransmissions no problems with reverse, all gears work perfectly besides that damn 1st! I really appreciate your comment and your time for allowing me to pick at your brain a little man! I’ll be sure to check out all the locations listed and see what the verdict is. Thanks!
You're welcome, man!
Jearl again lol. You said I a person can leave all check balls out except the modulator valve ball. Does that include that the reverse also can be left out? 4r100 will have no reverse if it's left out is why I ask. Finishing this 350 tranny right now.
That applies only to the th350. It is NOT applicable to any other transmission.
4r100s are a completely different transmission thus have completely different checkball requirements.
Are you building a performance-oriented transmission and running a high stall converter?
If not, id keep all the check balls in to start then once its running and driving, make adjustments such as drilling the plate and removing check balls if/as you need to.
@@nickstransmissions its a stock tranny, just an old 86 pickup for a high school girl. I build transmissions after work every day and weekends and have for years. I have done only maybe 10 or so 350 trannies. Just don't see them much here, I know very little about them other than just stock applications.
If that's the case, keep it stock or mostly stock for now as all it needs to do is go down the road and behave normally.
Since it's a pick up and you'll have decent ground clearance, i'd consider adding a deep aluminum pan to add some extra fluid capacity if there's room in the budget. Good luck with the build.