"But he's a nice dog, so we're not going to get ugly about it". You're so pure, Mike! Thank you for such wonderful videos - consistently. These are pretty therapeutic videos for the gear heads out there.
I can't tell you how happy I am to have come across your channel, Mike. I have a 76 shovel inherited from my late uncle that needs some work. No stranger to turning wrenches, I'm still cautious when working on this very sentimental motorcycle. Your videos have given me hope and confidence to go a little deeper. Thanks, man.
Mike, I am a 72 year old student of yours.. Have had 14 HD in life beginning with 1942…. Just started my winter project 81 Shovelhead I forgot all the things I forgot. Your videos are an incredible help. God blessed us with you. Thank you for your tireless work. Paul Clapper/Syracuse, NY
I can say from over here on the right coast, y’all are lucky to have Mike. We are all lucky to have him explain things so simply. If I was younger and in California I would have been a hang around at your shop to learn. Not too many people can say they had their hands in flat heads, knucks, pans, shovels, and evos.
Hi Mike, can't thank you enough for what you're doing. It's been a dream of mine since I was a kid to build a chopper and I finally bought an old '84 Shovel a few months ago. It's my first bike, and my first real mechanical project. I've been taking it apart and putting it back together every day since and your videos have been invaluable every step of the way. I truly wouldn't be as confident or this far along without your generosity and immense experience. You truly have helped me make a dream come true. I can't wait to send you a video of me kicking the bike over for the first time. All the best and hope to see much much more of your work for a while to come.
Thank you for this video. I'm building a 1/8 scale model of a Harley and this will prove to be a valuable resource aid for detailing it's engine. I did learn that the engine for the model is a 'Shovelhead'.
You do these videos perfectly man, infromative and your great at explaining all the odities unique to these engines, you are an awesome teacher man thank you
This is the last real USA Harley engine. It is my dream... German idea Evo and complicated TwinCam are aluminum jokes ... Great job Mr. ! I have Polish motorcycle WSK 125 from 1983 and it is so simple like Shovelhead ;-) Regards from Poland !
Great and informative videos Mike! This may give me the boost I need to help my father-in-law with his '66 Shovelhead chopper. It got partially disassembled, but he has health problems now, so I'd like to help him get it finished and back together.
Great video man I’m a former Harley tech but never touched anything older then a evo and I’m looking into getting myself a shovel thank you for the knowledge
Mike just came across this video and so glad I did I have a 1984 FLH Electra glide set for 15 years tank was emptied and the oils don’t think they were changed out getting ready to get her running so this video and some of your other videos sure going to help any other suggestions I should look for
Hi Mike, Jim from Massachusetts, 80 Shovelhead. I’m just gonna take out the main shaft washer spacer/washer and put it back on the way it was. After this belt goes I’m just going to go back to the primary chain 😔. I’m 63 years old and work on the ground. Just can’t do it anymore. I’m still gonna watch you though. I’ll see ya when I see ya 👋.
@@pacificmike9501 I know Mike, I just deleted the pictures I had of it all apart. But can take more while removing the washer. I gained on the alignment of the belt but lost the reach of the starter gear jackshaft. I tried everything make the gear to reach ring gear but nothing can be done. This was my 3rd complete belt drive system I have tried just not meant to be. It is the last year of AMF so stuff is just the way it is. Keep those video’s going Mike 🤜🤛.
We try to make the sound good, then we realize, "a dog, an airplane, a train, it's just life." We're just guys trying to make a nice presentation. So, the neighbor's dog is welcome to "chime in." No, wait! "Squeak" in.
at 7:14 you can use thin vacuum hose close to the same size of those head bolts/nuts, 8-10 inches long then force/stretch the rubber hose over the head bolt, then you can twist the bolts/nuts off easier. Fun Video, Thanks
I really enjoy watching your videos Mike. Im a newbie to the whole bike world, I have a love for r wheels and I just inherited a ton of 2 wheel stuff, as soon as i.fund your email ill let u in on the story. Thanks for taking the time, ive learned alot since I discovered your channel! Anyway its rare when I find a channel that I sit through the commercials hit the bell button and subscribe, your one of those channels. Thanks Mike and Merry Christmas
Hey Mike, hope all is well. Thanks for all the schooling. My 83 shovel needs a rebuild.. Problem is I can't find anyone in my area with the knowledge.. All the olskool cats are gone or not wrenching anymore.
🎩🖤 the great Mike aka doctor shovel ! 🔥bill Harley and the davidson brothers would be prid of you mr mike the spirit of HD this is the secret knowledge of the old school ! Amazing ! 🎸🎙
Thanks for everything you do. It is helpful to everyone. I have a 1974 AMF HD FX Super Glide that I bought new. It's been sitting in my barn since the early 1990's. I hope to get it running this winter with your help. I put a little bit of pressure on the kicker and it seemed to be locked up. I didn't want to push very hard so as not to damage anything worse than it already is. Would you recommend putting some kind of lubricant in the spark plug holes to try to help free it up. Also, is it best to try and get it to turn or remove the head, unbolt the cylinders and pull them off the pistons? Thankyou and I' sure I'll have a question or fifty in the near future.
I've seen this one approached a lot of ways. But, I really don't want to risk anything I don't have to. And, I consider motorcycles "love things." That being said, I would blow away any dirt from around the spark plugs. Then, after removing the plugs, squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders. Put the plugs back in loose. Let the motor sit, maybe even a week. Now carefully see if you can turn the motor over by hand with the kickstarter and with the plugs removed. If you can, it's going to make the next step a whole lot easier. The next step is to remove the top end. Clean around everything first so nothing falls into the motor. This way, you don't risk damage before checking it all out. I know we'll be talking again. But, getting your face back in the breeze on a Shovelhead is gonna be fun.
Great news Mike. After a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and a three week soak, my Shovelhead turns freely. I turned it about two revolutions. It turned smoothly with seemingly no drag and no sounds. Would you recommend I go ahead and change all the fluids, rebuild the carb and see if she'll run. Or should I go ahead and remove the top end and visually inspect it. By the way, I'm in Ohio. It's 17 deg. and snowing. So I'm not that pressed for time. It's just that I can't wait to hear that loud, lopping idle out in the driveway.Let me know what you think.
Awesome! I have a 1979 FXS-80 that needs TLC, summer is going to wrap up here soon, and so I'm very interested in what you're doing as I'm about to dive in and find out what I have waiting for me inside my beast. Thank you!
Hi Mike I pulled my 96 Ci shovel down for winter and put it back together and it ran fine but in Australia 2 weeks into summer it was making a weird scraping noise so to be safe I pulled engine back out and I had forgotten the spacer on the timken bearing at the flywheel anyway I am only saying that because while I didn't destroy my engine I'm guessing that I could have, and I am a car mechanic but spacers are sometimes critical Just mentioning that for others who might be building a first time.
Mike, I have enjoyed viewing all the videos I have seen so far, great information and tech tips. Do you have any information about choosing an oil bag for rigid frames and correct installation for a new build?
It's just personal preference. I'm still deciding what to do on the project bike. I have some kind of "off the wall" thoughts and too many choices. But, that makes it fun too. We'll see.
Hey Mike is this procedure the same for a panhead. Just want to make sure I get the right tools for pulling the head and cylinder of my new panhead that was sitting for 15 years. Thanks Mike love your channel
Hi Mike, I took off my cylinder heads and rocker boxes on my 1977 Superglide (FXE) due to the rocker box gasket failing and leaking oil on my front exhaust. This is the first time I’m doing this since it’s rebuild in 2002. And even then I had a mechanic do the job. But after watching your videos I’ve been confident enough to do it myself. Question I have is, since I have to replace the rocker box gasket and most likely the cylinder head gasket (among all the rocker arm and oil line seals)… How do you recommend removing the old caked on gasket material? How should I clean up everything before reassembly? Thanks again!
Very carefully, you may need to rzor blade them off. Again, very carefully. You ned to replace all of those gaskets. Do not reuse head or base gaskets. Or any of the others.
Hey Mike, I have a 1978 1/2 fxs that I’m trying to revive. I pulled the cylinders and cleaned the pistons and they’re stamped .080. They look good, but I was wondering if you would replace them.
Hi Mike, I got an 81 FXB last spring with about 11000 on the motor before it sat in a barn for 19 years. Runs strong but every seal and gasket is leaking. Leak down test shows less than 4% front 5%rear. Should I replace rings when I tear it down even the though leak down test was good? Also it had a crane cam hyd.L 24-101 installed in 1990, any idea what the specs are on this? I can't find anything. Keep the videos comming, so far you helped me service the clutch, and now going through your shovel and 4 speed tear down. Love wrenching older bikes. Thanks.
I don't think that is a real common number. I can't find it either. "L" stands for the gear, which is "late," and the proper one for your motor. 1981 Shovelheads were limited as to the cams you could install. I suspect this one is pretty mild to allow for that. My guess, just "my guess" is a 300H. If in fact, that's what it is, Crane advertised it as 248 degrees duration for both intake and exhaust and .455 lift again, for both intake and exhaust. Intake timing 24/44, exhaust 44/24. You'll need to call some guys who sell these cams and still have "old stock" with cam cards to get those specs and I can't be sure if we've identified it properly. If I was pulling the top end and everything looked good, and measured good, I would ball hone the cylinders and install new rings. I would most likely "hand lap" the valves to their respective seats and install new valve seals. That with new gaskets should freshen it up nicely. And, another "Happy Motor" takes you down the road.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike, Didn't know 81 had limited cams you could install. Yet another nugget of information I have learned from you. Keep the videos coming.
I understand. My old road bike is a shovel. I bought it new in 1978. It was the last new '77 around. I put 400m miles on it. I developed it over all those years, then wrecked it. It's almost back together. I can't wait. Sometimes, it takes a lot of sacrificing of other things, but you just keep after it. I'm almost there.
Question Mike, I have similar situation with an 81 shovel that has been sitting without push rods and lifters, I've pulled the heads and as expected lots of carbon. My question to you is once I get the cylinders off along with a good visual/hand inspection what would be the best way to make sure the bottom end is clean ? Should I do a flush and how would you go about doing it ? I'm doing a complete build with limited resources and want to thank you for the really informative videos Thank you Also, this particular motor has additional oil lines from the base of the cylinders to the lifter guides and it's duel plugged Thanks again
I hate to tell you this but, how clean the lower end is? You have no real way of knowing without disassembling it. Without disassembling it, you don't know for certain about any of it. Good procedures and experience tells you it's okay. So you have to go with that, concerning the lower end. You could rinse the lower end with kerosene to clean it up. But, immediately afterward, oil it up well. Those "additional oil lines" were one of Harley's experiments that didn't seem to be necessary and most people just plugged them off. I don't know that I helped you much here, but this is pretty much it. Thank You.
gday mike, thanks for the instructions mate, very educational. quick question though, can i remove the head whilst the engine is in the frame? or must i remove it? i apologise if youve already said and i missed it. cheers, dennis
Your videos are very informative...……..I really appreciate you taking the time to do them...…… Just one more bit of information would be helpful...….. I have searched the web for the crows foot like you used to remove/tighten the cylinder heads and cannot find one with the extended shank for clearance...………. could you tell me the brand?
@@pacificmike9501 I got a Proto 3/8 drive 9/16 off Amazon but I looked and searched all the major companies on the net for the crows foot that had the offset similar to the one you use with no luck. Was saved by eBay ……found one that had been pre owned with 1.5 inch reach...……...…. they must not make new ones like that anymore.
I believe it is called a "torque adapter." If I'm wrong, please comment again to tell me. That one is Snap-On brand. I believe other people make it too.
Good point. In a hurry, and sometimes, the only way, but not in this case. Trying to make videos short and concise becomes too much of what I'm thinking instead of doing. But, thank you for your observation, and, I agree.
Whats the biggest cubic inch shovel out there? I would love to have a shovel that can be rode long distances reliable, but make around 120hp/120tq. Is that too much to ask for?
That's a long conversation. The more you build a motor to a specific purpose, the less it becomes for other uses. Think about it like this: "I'd like to build a big motor that makes big power all through the scale, a motor that will run forever and never blow up or wear out and make good gas mileage, and, and...." One of my all time favorite people used to say, "Man does not live by one motorcycle alone." But, if you must, there have been some big Shovelhead motors out there. Back in the seventies, one of the greats I always admired, John Harmon, built the Monster Motor. They were then available in 120cu. in. Mr. Harmon produced special cases, heads, cylinders, neat stuff. He has sadly, since passed. S&S builds and sells 103" Shovelheads. I learned a long time ago, I don't care what the numbers are. Do I have loads of torque to casually fly up the mountains? Do I have the speed to casually fly down the freeway in the fast lane with more than adequate throttle left? Is my bike cool enough for "datenight?" Can I take off on a long trip tonight without worrying about it? Mission Accomplished.
Hi Mike, I'm getting ready to start the top end rebuild on my '76 FLH and so I am gathering all the tools I will need to do the job. what is the name and make of that mini wrench you used to get the head bolts off? Thanx in advance, all good stuff... I watch and re-watch all your videos thanx again.. TD
Hi Mike. I am considering a 80 FLT Shovel. I feel the Shovel is just as reliable as the Evo. I do my own wrenching (foreplay), so not worried about maintenance. Any little tips that Shovels need to avoid problems?
It's a battle. If a drag link socket fits the slot tightly, a hand impact driver should work. Problem is, the pretty slotted ones always get used up going on and off a couple of times. Sad, but true. I try to be real careful. Some times, the right size screwdriver with a wrench on it will do it. Sometimes, you have to sacrifice them and buy new ones. I hate destroying things. We should probably make a driver specifically for the early Shovelhead and Sportster rocker screws.
Thanks for taking the time to answer. I figured someone with your experience might know a trick; alas, no trick. My '67 has some oil weeping from under one of the rocker screws. I too don't like destroying things. I might go ahead and buy a drag link socket and grind it to a tight fit to see if I can get it out without ruining it.
Good idea. Nylon seals are also made for the rocker shafts. If there's enough length on the shaft (not always), you can install the nylon seal and the o-ring.
mike, i am in the process of reinstalling the heads on my 1970 flh and want to use new head bolts this time due to the fact that she has had several rebuilds, more than i can remember. i feel that the original bolts may have stretched the threads over time. I realize you cannot endorse a specific manufacture, but could you recommend a brand of head bolts that would be suitable for my application? i would like the 12pt. i have been looking and they range from $50 to $150 and beyond.i have had this bike since 1976 and i am 72 years old. probably be her last rebuild. Thanks Mike, love your videos and what you are doing
I honestly don't know, but any good American brand should do the trick. I'm damned old and bought my Shovelhead brand new. I got off a Panhead chopper and onto a brand new Shovel. I loved it so much, I put 400k miles on it. I pretty much lived on it. I wrecked it several years ago and just got it running again today. I know, no matter what else I get, that Shovel is home. It will always keep me young, and I hope to wear out the motor again. I suggest you do the same. I would like to remind you, those head bolts in and out so many times pull the threads in the cylinder head inserts. It's easily worth a few bucks to have a machine shop mill them down from the head surface to make sure your gaskets seal. Thank you. Hopefully, we'll ride forever.
Mike, I’m currently tearing down my ‘78 shovel. There are three of the head bolts on the rear cylinder that are too close to the cooling fins and I can’t get any wrench or socket on them to get them off. Do you have any tips or tricks to get them out? Or am I going to have to drill them out?
I honestly don't understand the problem. Someone else installed them. What do you suppose they used? Look at the Shovelhead engine videos we've done by going to our UA-cam Channel page and tap on "playlists." Look at the videos and see if maybe it answers your questions.
Pacific Mike yes I’m guessing someone changed them at some point. They are grade 8 hex head bolts and it’s almost like when they tightened them down, the head got twisted just enough that there is not enough room between the head of the bolt and the cooling fin on the cylinder to get a wrench or socket on to loosen it. I’ve watched all of your videos, I have the dogbone wrench you use, I can’t get anything on the bolts enough to get a bite to loosen them.
Hey Mike I've got an 83 fxe. When pulling my cylinders off I noticed the base gasket covered what I think is an oil hole. The James gasket kit I bought for my year of bike also covered this hole. Is this correct? I am reading conflicting stories of it's not needed and it is needed. Can u clear this up?
The Shovelhead engines drain from the heads through the cylinders (passage through the cylinders and into the case through a hole near the bottom of the bore). Unless your motor has been stroked, there should be no problem and stock gaskets should be fine. We're assuming "no modifications."
Man I'm considering doing the head gaskets for my 84 shovelhead, kinda nervous as I've never removed or worked on a Harley's engine, any tips or videos on removal from frame?
You don't need to remove the engine from the frame, just to replace head gaskets. There are videos shown installing head gaskets. Go to our home page and click on "videos."
Pacific Mike If I we’re to buy a Harley equipped with a Shovelhead am I going to be doing a lot more maintenance than if I were to buy a newer bike with an Evo? I prefer the freedom to do it myself but I don’t want to bite off more than I can chew. Thanks again for the videos.
That's a tough question. Evos are really easy to maintain. Shovels aren't bad. You start hopping them up, they require more attention. "They" meaning all of them.
They are, of course, similar. However, the camchest is very different. Shovelheads were made from 66-69 with a generator mounted up front. Camchest still very similar to Panhead. Then came the "conemotor." The Shovelhead from 70 up had a different camchest and an alternator located in the left crankcase half. There are other subtle differences from year to year. I believe this one was a 79.
No, they are not. The originals are hex head, flatheaded bolts. They are factory specific purpose bolts. The acorn nut and stud configuration is for looks. I like to use either original bolts or aftermarket twelve points (which are easier to get a wrench on when retorquing).
@@pacificmike9501 thanks, I ask because my bolts and cylinder nuts are hex, in my parts book didn't call for the acorn type, so I'm guessing it's all stock.
Cool. Make sure that the bolts and threads in the cylinder heads are spotlessly clean (carefully, don't damage the threads) before reinstalling, to get a nice accurate torque setting.
Pacific Mike right but if you are taking the jugs off all you have to do is unbolt the jugs and then turn them over and its easier to access the head bolts....
@@zigz0911 And then you have 5 head bolts, that are torqued to 65 lbs (or more). If you do that you then have to contend with how do you keep the head/cylinder from moving or damage, while you remove the 5 head bolts at 65+ lbs of torque. I haven't heard of anyone doing it that way. And I'd never consider doing it that way.
Hard to say. What does it need? Who's going to do it? Too many variables. What is the labor rate where you live? This is a question that can only be answered by the person or people doing the job and what it's going to take to get it done.
@@pacificmike9501 it's been seating for 12 years so does have little bit oil around the engine. I tried to start it but oil start pouring out , I think I should replace the oil pump check valve ball and spring .
That's normal if the oil is coming out of the breather. If it sits a long time, the oil will get past the check ball and into the crankcase. Put a pan under it. The scavenge gears will pump more than the feed gears and it will all balance out again. It's simply a matter of gravity that the oil passes into the bottom of the case over time. Don't run the motor too low on oil. Once the problem clears up, keep oil in the tank, don't overfill. If the problem continues, then you'll need to explore further. But this is normal for an engine that has been sitting for awhile.
Could you just remove the entire head assembly in one go instead of removing them in 2 parts? That way, you would have easy access to the 5 bolts holding the top half on?
Don't know which motor you have or which bolt you're referring to. Extracting bolts and studs can be very involved and I need to know what you're dealing with. Sometimes you need to find "The right guy for the job." Sometimes it requires a great deal of thought before proceeding. I need more information. Which motor? Which bolt?
84 shovel even though title gives 2 dates 88 and 91 I have STD lower cases it's the right front jug bolt I started breaking it down . Whole bike was done at local shop 5 years + ago as I bought it in a box. rear rocker box leaking as is head so just want input on if It's easier to pull motor to do top end rebuild which I'm sure it is but any tips much appreciated
It really depends on whether the topend is larger than stock. And, it depends on how you're going to address that stud. Sometimes it's hard to assess an issue I can't look at.
this man is the Bob Ross of shovelheads. You make everything simple and i appreciate your videos
Wow, thanks
"But he's a nice dog, so we're not going to get ugly about it". You're so pure, Mike! Thank you for such wonderful videos - consistently. These are pretty therapeutic videos for the gear heads out there.
Thank you. I do my best to stay positive and healthy. I'd always rather have a good time than a bad one. I'm glad you like it.
the bob ross of harleys love the channel watched your videos before i tackled base gaskets on my S&S 93 Shovel keep it up your great
Thank you. Glad to help.
I WAS JUST GONNA COMMENT THE SAME THING! LOL
How did that S&S SH93 hold up?
I can't tell you how happy I am to have come across your channel, Mike. I have a 76 shovel inherited from my late uncle that needs some work. No stranger to turning wrenches, I'm still cautious when working on this very sentimental motorcycle. Your videos have given me hope and confidence to go a little deeper. Thanks, man.
That is awesome! That makes me feel worthwhile. Make your Uncle proud.
thanx man picked up an old shovel thats been sitting a long time ill probably watch every video several times
Cool. Just go to youtube. Type in Pacific Mike. Then, click on Videos. There are 353 of them.
Congrats! You'll never be the same again.
Most professional , and non “ self - serving “ !
What a breath of fresh air .
I’ve owned (6) shovels ... totally appreciate your delivery .
Stik
Thank you.
Mike is a rare breed! A mellow mechanic!
I'm here for a good time.
Mike, I am a 72 year old student of yours..
Have had 14 HD in life beginning with 1942…. Just started my winter project 81 Shovelhead I forgot all the things I forgot. Your videos are an incredible help. God blessed us with you. Thank you for your tireless work. Paul Clapper/Syracuse, NY
Wow. Thank You. I hope I can live up to that.
Love your channel. Man, your voice is ASMR for gearheads.
What an awesome compliment! Thank you.
I was going to say. This guy is the Bob Ross of motorcycle engines.
I can say from over here on the right coast, y’all are lucky to have Mike. We are all lucky to have him explain things so simply. If I was younger and in California I would have been a hang around at your shop to learn. Not too many people can say they had their hands in flat heads, knucks, pans, shovels, and evos.
Thank you. Those are the things I love.
Hi Mike, can't thank you enough for what you're doing. It's been a dream of mine since I was a kid to build a chopper and I finally bought an old '84 Shovel a few months ago. It's my first bike, and my first real mechanical project. I've been taking it apart and putting it back together every day since and your videos have been invaluable every step of the way. I truly wouldn't be as confident or this far along without your generosity and immense experience. You truly have helped me make a dream come true. I can't wait to send you a video of me kicking the bike over for the first time. All the best and hope to see much much more of your work for a while to come.
Thank You. There's certainly more to come. Glad you like it.
I have a 1978 1 /2 fxs and am loving you tube and these guys giving great info On my 76 cubic inch shovel I have had since 1978. Thank you.
Great to hear!
Thank you for this video. I'm building a 1/8 scale model of a Harley and this will prove to be a valuable resource aid for detailing it's engine. I did learn that the engine for the model is a 'Shovelhead'.
Glad to be of service.
This shovelhead rebuild was an amazing watch. Keep up the great videos!!!!
Thanks, will do!
You do these videos perfectly man, infromative and your great at explaining all the odities unique to these engines, you are an awesome teacher man thank you
Thank you. I try. I still miss a little here and there.
Great Job Mike! I’m no mechanic but love to see a master at his craft!
Thank You.
Awesome channel! You're voice and how you explain things makes me feel as if I'm watching the Bob Ross of engine rebuilding.
Thank you. We try.
Was just getting ready to type the same thing and noticed you beat me to it. ‘79 Shovel rider
I love the way you talk and explain things...you are like the bob ross of bikes
Thank You.
This is the last real USA Harley engine. It is my dream... German idea Evo and complicated TwinCam are aluminum jokes ... Great job Mr. ! I have Polish motorcycle WSK 125 from 1983 and it is so simple like Shovelhead ;-) Regards from Poland !
Thank you. But there's room for all of them. We all have our preferences.
Thanks for the video I’m a newb and I learn a lot through well made videos like this. Great job Mike.
Thank you.
Great and informative videos Mike! This may give me the boost I need to help my father-in-law with his '66 Shovelhead chopper. It got partially disassembled, but he has health problems now, so I'd like to help him get it finished and back together.
Very cool. Take it slow. You'll learn it and it will be a great experience.
There’s other clips that even show a 66 shovel chopper
Great video man I’m a former Harley tech but never touched anything older then a evo and I’m looking into getting myself a shovel thank you for the knowledge
Thank You, and have fun with it.
Mike just came across this video and so glad I did I have a 1984 FLH Electra glide set for 15 years tank was emptied and the oils don’t think they were changed out getting ready to get her running so this video and some of your other videos sure going to help any other suggestions I should look for
Sounds great. Read your service manual too.
Hi Mike, Jim from Massachusetts, 80 Shovelhead. I’m just gonna take out the main shaft washer spacer/washer and put it back on the way it was. After this belt goes I’m just going to go back to the primary chain 😔. I’m 63 years old and work on the ground. Just can’t do it anymore. I’m still gonna watch you though. I’ll see ya when I see ya 👋.
Sorry I can't see what your issue is.
@@pacificmike9501 I know Mike, I just deleted the pictures I had of it all apart. But can take more while removing the washer. I gained on the alignment of the belt but lost the reach of the starter gear jackshaft. I tried everything make the gear to reach ring gear but nothing can be done. This was my 3rd complete belt drive system I have tried just not meant to be. It is the last year of AMF so stuff is just the way it is. Keep those video’s going Mike 🤜🤛.
Really appreciate this series as I'm about to start a shovelhead project! Very detailed and easy to follow! Keep up the great work!
Thank you.
New or older videos don't matters what does matter is getting it done right there's always more than one way to do things great video Mike 👍
Thank You.
Awesome video Mike! I stumbled across your post and now can't stop watching. I'm going to pick up to "crows foot" that you used. Cheers!
Welcome aboard! Thank You.
I ride BMW GS but you make me respect Harleys more and more. Thank you for the amazing content. Ride Safe Pacific Mike.
Thanks, you too!
Wow, I’m looking for someone like you in NJ. Got this 70 Shovel FLH needs a top-end rebuild
I don't know anyone that far from here.
I don't even have a shovelhead, but I loved watching the whole video.
Thank You.
I think that first head stud dribbled oil for the dog's squeak... Always glad to see a new Pacific Mike vid!
We try to make the sound good, then we realize, "a dog, an airplane, a train, it's just life." We're just guys trying to make a nice presentation. So, the neighbor's dog is welcome to "chime in." No, wait! "Squeak" in.
at 7:14 you can use thin vacuum hose close to the same size of those head bolts/nuts, 8-10 inches long then force/stretch the rubber hose over the head bolt, then you can twist the bolts/nuts off easier. Fun Video, Thanks
Thank You.
Thank you mike , always a pleasure to learn something new
Thank you. Glad you're enjoying this stuff.
I'm sure someone has said it but you are the Bob Vila of Harley repair.
Thank you. We try.
I really enjoy watching your videos Mike. Im a newbie to the whole bike world, I have a love for r wheels and I just inherited a ton of 2 wheel stuff, as soon as i.fund your email ill let u in on the story. Thanks for taking the time, ive learned alot since I discovered your channel! Anyway its rare when I find a channel that I sit through the commercials hit the bell button and subscribe, your one of those channels. Thanks Mike and Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas to you. It's really glad to hear that you're enjoying our stuff.
A good informative video.
I watched a guy drive a cylinder down over a piston with a piece of 2x4 and a maul.
That was before UA-cam®️ ever existed.
Now, that's "entertainment."
excellent video. Your patience is amazing lol
Thank you! Cheers!
This was like watching Bob Ross take apart a motorcycle. Super awesome!
Thank You
Should be so lucky to have you show us this .
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Great explenation! from start o end. Really helpfull. Thanks for showing.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Mike, hope all is well.
Thanks for all the schooling. My 83 shovel needs a rebuild.. Problem is I can't find anyone in my area with the knowledge.. All the olskool cats are gone or not wrenching anymore.
Time to step up. I miss my teachers every day.
😢
Thank you Mike this was a priceless video I can’t thank you enough ! -Drew
Thank you.
Brilliant I will get round to replacing the head gasket on my 82 flh one day
Thank You.
Really helpful video which become so seldom nowadays. Cool! Tnx!
Thank you.
I really like your videos. Ive tried watching tatro vids but i cant get past all the bickering and shaky cam action. Keep it up!
Thank you.
Tatro is still a genius but I’ll agree his camera isa bit shaky.
🎩🖤 the great Mike aka doctor shovel ! 🔥bill Harley and the davidson brothers would be prid of you mr mike the spirit of HD
this is the secret knowledge of the old school ! Amazing ! 🎸🎙
Thank You. That's quite a compliment..
Thanks for everything you do. It is helpful to everyone. I have a 1974 AMF HD FX Super Glide that I bought new. It's been sitting in my barn since the early 1990's. I hope to get it running this winter with your help. I put a little bit of pressure on the kicker and it seemed to be locked up. I didn't want to push very hard so as not to damage anything worse than it already is. Would you recommend putting some kind of lubricant in the spark plug holes to try to help free it up. Also, is it best to try and get it to turn or remove the head, unbolt the cylinders and pull them off the pistons? Thankyou and I' sure I'll have a question or fifty in the near future.
I've seen this one approached a lot of ways. But, I really don't want to risk anything I don't have to. And, I consider motorcycles "love things." That being said, I would blow away any dirt from around the spark plugs. Then, after removing the plugs, squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders. Put the plugs back in loose. Let the motor sit, maybe even a week. Now carefully see if you can turn the motor over by hand with the kickstarter and with the plugs removed. If you can, it's going to make the next step a whole lot easier. The next step is to remove the top end. Clean around everything first so nothing falls into the motor. This way, you don't risk damage before checking it all out. I know we'll be talking again. But, getting your face back in the breeze on a Shovelhead is gonna be fun.
Great news Mike. After a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and a three week soak, my Shovelhead turns freely. I turned it about two revolutions. It turned smoothly with seemingly no drag and no sounds. Would you recommend I go ahead and change all the fluids, rebuild the carb and see if she'll run. Or should I go ahead and remove the top end and visually inspect it. By the way, I'm in Ohio. It's 17 deg. and snowing. So I'm not that pressed for time. It's just that I can't wait to hear that loud, lopping idle out in the driveway.Let me know what you think.
Pacific Mike ...
Mike, is there a better option for getting questions to you?
L
Awesome! I have a 1979 FXS-80 that needs TLC, summer is going to wrap up here soon, and so I'm very interested in what you're doing as I'm about to dive in and find out what I have waiting for me inside my beast. Thank you!
Hope to be of help to you. Thanx for responding.
had me laughing, popping that push rod, that was kind of an animal thing to do, that was funny as hell.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi Mike I pulled my 96 Ci shovel down for winter and put it back together and it ran fine but in Australia 2 weeks into summer it was making a weird scraping noise so to be safe I pulled engine back out and I had forgotten the spacer on the timken bearing at the flywheel anyway I am only saying that because while I didn't destroy my engine I'm guessing that I could have, and I am a car mechanic but spacers are sometimes critical Just mentioning that for others who might be building a first time.
I actually check and recheck myself. Nobody's perfect.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you i really appreciate your comment but I'm very lucky that I had another 8hours work and it could have been way worse.
Mike, I have enjoyed viewing all the videos I have seen so far, great information and tech tips.
Do you have any information about choosing an oil bag for rigid frames and correct installation for a new build?
It's just personal preference. I'm still deciding what to do on the project bike. I have some kind of "off the wall" thoughts and too many choices. But, that makes it fun too. We'll see.
@@pacificmike9501 Too many choices, can be very difficult, also delay the build, time will tell.
Mike this is great stuff. Thank you so much!
And thank you for watching.
You’re like the Bob Ross of Harley Davidson. Paint me some happy little clouds on that pegboard and we are there.
You know, I try to install happy little parts on happy little bikes. It's not bad you know.
Hey Mike is this procedure the same for a panhead. Just want to make sure I get the right tools for pulling the head and cylinder of my new panhead that was sitting for 15 years. Thanks Mike love your channel
Same hardware. So, same tools. Thank You.
Thank for this Mike. I needed this.
Glad to be of service. Thank you.
Hi Mike,
I took off my cylinder heads and rocker boxes on my 1977 Superglide (FXE) due to the rocker box gasket failing and leaking oil on my front exhaust.
This is the first time I’m doing this since it’s rebuild in 2002. And even then I had a mechanic do the job. But after watching your videos I’ve been confident enough to do it myself.
Question I have is, since I have to replace the rocker box gasket and most likely the cylinder head gasket (among all the rocker arm and oil line seals)…
How do you recommend removing the old caked on gasket material?
How should I clean up everything before reassembly?
Thanks again!
Very carefully, you may need to rzor blade them off. Again, very carefully. You ned to replace all of those gaskets. Do not reuse head or base gaskets. Or any of the others.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you Mike!
Hey Mike, I have a 1978 1/2 fxs that I’m trying to revive. I pulled the cylinders and cleaned the pistons and they’re stamped .080. They look good, but I was wondering if you would replace them.
It's a matter of wear. Are the cylinders warn? There are specifications in your service manual. Look under "Service Wear Limits."
Hi Mike, I got an 81 FXB last spring with about 11000 on the motor before it sat in a barn for 19 years. Runs strong but every seal and gasket is leaking. Leak down test shows less than 4% front 5%rear. Should I replace rings when I tear it down even the though leak down test was good? Also it had a crane cam hyd.L 24-101 installed in 1990, any idea what the specs are on this? I can't find anything. Keep the videos comming, so far you helped me service the clutch, and now going through your shovel and 4 speed tear down. Love wrenching older bikes. Thanks.
I don't think that is a real common number. I can't find it either. "L" stands for the gear, which is "late," and the proper one for your motor. 1981 Shovelheads were limited as to the cams you could install. I suspect this one is pretty mild to allow for that. My guess, just "my guess" is a 300H. If in fact, that's what it is, Crane advertised it as 248 degrees duration for both intake and exhaust and .455 lift again, for both intake and exhaust. Intake timing 24/44, exhaust 44/24. You'll need to call some guys who sell these cams and still have "old stock" with cam cards to get those specs and I can't be sure if we've identified it properly. If I was pulling the top end and everything looked good, and measured good, I would ball hone the cylinders and install new rings. I would most likely "hand lap" the valves to their respective seats and install new valve seals. That with new gaskets should freshen it up nicely. And, another "Happy Motor" takes you down the road.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike, Didn't know 81 had limited cams you could install. Yet another nugget of information I have learned from you. Keep the videos coming.
Hey Mike your the best and i have learn a lot from you and I need to know do I check my 93 moo guild trany on its kick stand
Yes, you can.
Man, I miss my shovel. My favorite motorcycle engine.
I understand. My old road bike is a shovel. I bought it new in 1978. It was the last new '77 around. I put 400m miles on it. I developed it over all those years, then wrecked it. It's almost back together. I can't wait. Sometimes, it takes a lot of sacrificing of other things, but you just keep after it. I'm almost there.
Same here, beautiful look & sound!
Question Mike, I have similar situation with an 81 shovel that has been sitting without push rods and lifters, I've pulled the heads and as expected lots of carbon. My question to you is once I get the cylinders off along with a good visual/hand inspection what would be the best way to make sure the bottom end is clean ? Should I do a flush and how would you go about doing it ?
I'm doing a complete build with limited resources and want to thank you for the really informative videos
Thank you
Also, this particular motor has additional oil lines from the base of the cylinders to the lifter guides and it's duel plugged
Thanks again
I hate to tell you this but, how clean the lower end is? You have no real way of knowing without disassembling it. Without disassembling it, you don't know for certain about any of it. Good procedures and experience tells you it's okay. So you have to go with that, concerning the lower end. You could rinse the lower end with kerosene to clean it up. But, immediately afterward, oil it up well. Those "additional oil lines" were one of Harley's experiments that didn't seem to be necessary and most people just plugged them off. I don't know that I helped you much here, but this is pretty much it. Thank You.
this guy has a "bob ross" feel to his cadence.
Thank you. Glad you like it.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for posting this informative video on shovelhead engines.
Thank you for watching.
Hes like a Bob Ross of bike building
Thank you.
gday mike, thanks for the instructions mate, very educational. quick question though, can i remove the head whilst the engine is in the frame? or must i remove it? i apologise if youve already said and i missed it. cheers, dennis
Assuming it is a stock frame, yes, unless the engine is taller than stock.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks mate you’re a gentleman.
Your videos are very informative...……..I really appreciate you taking the time to do them...…… Just one more bit of information would be helpful...….. I have searched the web for the crows foot like you used to remove/tighten the cylinder heads and cannot find one with the extended shank for clearance...………. could you tell me the brand?
Thank you. I think several companies make them, but, that one is a Snap-On.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks...…… I'll check with them to see if they still have the one with the shank to provide clearance.
They must not make 'em like that any more...…………..
You need a guy with a "tool truck."
@@pacificmike9501 I got a Proto 3/8 drive 9/16 off Amazon but I looked and searched all the major companies on the net for the crows foot that had the offset similar to the one you use with no luck. Was saved by eBay ……found one that had been pre owned with 1.5 inch reach...……...…. they must not make new ones like that anymore.
Mike, thanks for the video's. Great information. What is that small wrench called that you loosen the the head bolts? And where can I get one?
I believe it is called a "torque adapter." If I'm wrong, please comment again to tell me. That one is Snap-On brand. I believe other people make it too.
Why did you take the risk of damaging the intake push rod and/or lifter by popping it off when you know you going to loosen and take the head off?
Good point. In a hurry, and sometimes, the only way, but not in this case. Trying to make videos short and concise becomes too much of what I'm thinking instead of doing. But, thank you for your observation, and, I agree.
It is interesting to knew, how much may coast such kind of engine in not very bad condition to dy? Is it real with mail sending?
I don't work any more. I am retired.
@@pacificmike9501 it is a pitty😒
It pays to have the right tools for the job
Yes.
so very interesting! thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
can you take the heads off without removing the motor?
Sure. However, on a Shovelhead, you have to remove the heads first to remove the rocker boxes.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike ,that's what I meant to say rocker boxes . brain fog is getting worse . appreciate your help .
No problem.
Love your show Mike. Great to follow. What wrench set did you use with the ratchet ? I like them.
Thank You.
Whats the biggest cubic inch shovel out there? I would love to have a shovel that can be rode long distances reliable, but make around 120hp/120tq. Is that too much to ask for?
That's a long conversation. The more you build a motor to a specific purpose, the less it becomes for other uses. Think about it like this: "I'd like to build a big motor that makes big power all through the scale, a motor that will run forever and never blow up or wear out and make good gas mileage, and, and...." One of my all time favorite people used to say, "Man does not live by one motorcycle alone." But, if you must, there have been some big Shovelhead motors out there. Back in the seventies, one of the greats I always admired, John Harmon, built the Monster Motor. They were then available in 120cu. in. Mr. Harmon produced special cases, heads, cylinders, neat stuff. He has sadly, since passed. S&S builds and sells 103" Shovelheads. I learned a long time ago, I don't care what the numbers are. Do I have loads of torque to casually fly up the mountains? Do I have the speed to casually fly down the freeway in the fast lane with more than adequate throttle left? Is my bike cool enough for "datenight?" Can I take off on a long trip tonight without worrying about it? Mission Accomplished.
Great video. looking to do the same for my 79 FLH Thanks for helpful Info. Where are you located?
Thank You. I am retired, but reside in Southern California.
Hi Mike, I'm getting ready to start the top end rebuild on my '76 FLH and so I am gathering all the tools I will need to do the job. what is the name and make of that mini wrench you used to get the head bolts off? Thanx in advance, all good stuff... I watch and re-watch all your videos thanx again.. TD
Thank you. I think they're called "torque adapters." Mine are Snap-On brand.
Hi Mike. I am considering a 80 FLT Shovel. I feel the Shovel is just as reliable as the Evo. I do my own wrenching (foreplay), so not worried about maintenance. Any little tips that Shovels need to avoid problems?
Sure. Just like anything else modern. Better carb, ignition and exhaust. Oh yah, and a mild cam to wake it up a little.
I have a question for you. What do you use to remove the slotted rocker shaft screws without destroying them when they're tight? Drag link socket?
It's a battle. If a drag link socket fits the slot tightly, a hand impact driver should work. Problem is, the pretty slotted ones always get used up going on and off a couple of times. Sad, but true. I try to be real careful. Some times, the right size screwdriver with a wrench on it will do it. Sometimes, you have to sacrifice them and buy new ones. I hate destroying things. We should probably make a driver specifically for the early Shovelhead and Sportster rocker screws.
Thanks for taking the time to answer. I figured someone with your experience might know a trick; alas, no trick. My '67 has some oil weeping from under one of the rocker screws. I too don't like destroying things. I might go ahead and buy a drag link socket and grind it to a tight fit to see if I can get it out without ruining it.
Good idea. Nylon seals are also made for the rocker shafts. If there's enough length on the shaft (not always), you can install the nylon seal and the o-ring.
mike, i am in the process of reinstalling the heads on my 1970 flh and want to use new head bolts this time due to the fact that she has had several rebuilds, more than i can remember. i feel that the original bolts may have stretched the threads over time. I realize you cannot endorse a specific manufacture, but could you recommend a brand of head bolts that would be suitable for my application? i would like the 12pt. i have been looking and they range from $50 to $150 and beyond.i have had this bike since 1976 and i am 72 years old. probably be her last rebuild. Thanks Mike, love your videos and what you are doing
I honestly don't know, but any good American brand should do the trick. I'm damned old and bought my Shovelhead brand new. I got off a Panhead chopper and onto a brand new Shovel. I loved it so much, I put 400k miles on it. I pretty much lived on it. I wrecked it several years ago and just got it running again today. I know, no matter what else I get, that Shovel is home. It will always keep me young, and I hope to wear out the motor again. I suggest you do the same. I would like to remind you, those head bolts in and out so many times pull the threads in the cylinder head inserts. It's easily worth a few bucks to have a machine shop mill them down from the head surface to make sure your gaskets seal. Thank you. Hopefully, we'll ride forever.
Mike, I’m currently tearing down my ‘78 shovel. There are three of the head bolts on the rear cylinder that are too close to the cooling fins and I can’t get any wrench or socket on them to get them off. Do you have any tips or tricks to get them out? Or am I going to have to drill them out?
I honestly don't understand the problem. Someone else installed them. What do you suppose they used? Look at the Shovelhead engine videos we've done by going to our UA-cam Channel page and tap on "playlists." Look at the videos and see if maybe it answers your questions.
Pacific Mike yes I’m guessing someone changed them at some point. They are grade 8 hex head bolts and it’s almost like when they tightened them down, the head got twisted just enough that there is not enough room between the head of the bolt and the cooling fin on the cylinder to get a wrench or socket on to loosen it. I’ve watched all of your videos, I have the dogbone wrench you use, I can’t get anything on the bolts enough to get a bite to loosen them.
@@slevin8478 sell it and let someone else worry about that LOL
@@cdula26 at the time I was about ready to. I got it figured out though
Hey Mike I've got an 83 fxe. When pulling my cylinders off I noticed the base gasket covered what I think is an oil hole. The James gasket kit I bought for my year of bike also covered this hole. Is this correct? I am reading conflicting stories of it's not needed and it is needed. Can u clear this up?
The Shovelhead engines drain from the heads through the cylinders (passage through the cylinders and into the case through a hole near the bottom of the bore). Unless your motor has been stroked, there should be no problem and stock gaskets should be fine. We're assuming "no modifications."
@@pacificmike9501 no mods done Mike. Thankyou for you reply. You videos are brilliant and are helping so many people.
Are the cylinder and head bolts not the original factory bolts ?
No, they were not.
Mike- I have S&S heads on my shovel is, it the same removal?
Yes.
Man I'm considering doing the head gaskets for my 84 shovelhead, kinda nervous as I've never removed or worked on a Harley's engine, any tips or videos on removal from frame?
You don't need to remove the engine from the frame, just to replace head gaskets. There are videos shown installing head gaskets. Go to our home page and click on "videos."
Excellent Video!
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Pacific Mike If I we’re to buy a Harley equipped with a Shovelhead am I going to be doing a lot more maintenance than if I were to buy a newer bike with an Evo? I prefer the freedom to do it myself but I don’t want to bite off more than I can chew. Thanks again for the videos.
That's a tough question. Evos are really easy to maintain. Shovels aren't bad. You start hopping them up, they require more attention. "They" meaning all of them.
Pacific Mike Thank you
That motor looks pretty big to me. Are you pacific lawn mower guy?
No, that would be our Flathead.
Do you have to replace the head gasket when you take the heads off ?
Yes. Not the place to take chances.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for getting back to me !
If you havea minute, what's your thoughts on rocker lockers ?
I don't know what they are. Educate me.
@@pacificmike9501 Brass bushings to take up slack for the rocker box bolts. Eliminates the ticking sound.
Maybe......we'll see.
What year Shovelhead is this? I have a 69 are they much the same? Cheers and keep up the good work champ
They are, of course, similar. However, the camchest is very different. Shovelheads were made from 66-69 with a generator mounted up front. Camchest still very similar to Panhead. Then came the "conemotor." The Shovelhead from 70 up had a different camchest and an alternator located in the left crankcase half. There are other subtle differences from year to year. I believe this one was a 79.
Can you teach how to put on a mag cover RF
mag cover?
Damn this guy’s demeanor and general attitude is so fuching cool man. Just for that I sued
Thank you.
“We’re gonna do it the nasty way”
Okayfine
The acorn type head belts, are they OEM harley?
No, they are not. The originals are hex head, flatheaded bolts. They are factory specific purpose bolts. The acorn nut and stud configuration is for looks. I like to use either original bolts or aftermarket twelve points (which are easier to get a wrench on when retorquing).
@@pacificmike9501 thanks, I ask because my bolts and cylinder nuts are hex, in my parts book didn't call for the acorn type, so I'm guessing it's all stock.
Cool. Make sure that the bolts and threads in the cylinder heads are spotlessly clean (carefully, don't damage the threads) before reinstalling, to get a nice accurate torque setting.
@@pacificmike9501 will do, thank you for the help and as always, love your videos
Isnt it easier to just take the cylinder loose and then get the head bolts out?
The cylinders are bolted to the crankcase. The heads are bolted to the cylinders.
Pacific Mike right but if you are taking the jugs off all you have to do is unbolt the jugs and then turn them over and its easier to access the head bolts....
@@zigz0911 And then you have 5 head bolts, that are torqued to 65 lbs (or more). If you do that you then have to contend with how do you keep the head/cylinder from moving or damage, while you remove the 5 head bolts at 65+ lbs of torque. I haven't heard of anyone doing it that way. And I'd never consider doing it that way.
Harley Wylie air tools are a wonderful thing...
@@zigz0911 OK then. You have a good bunch of videos Pacific Mike, thanks.
Much obliged
Glad you like it. Thank you.
How bout doing a rebuild on a 1935 oil pump thanks
If I needed to do one, I'd show it. I will be doing the pumps on my 1940 Flathead 80. But that's a little farther down the road right now.
Mike how much $$$ would it be to rebuild a 79 Shovelhead 1200...
Hard to say. What does it need? Who's going to do it? Too many variables. What is the labor rate where you live? This is a question that can only be answered by the person or people doing the job and what it's going to take to get it done.
@@pacificmike9501 it's been seating for 12 years so does have little bit oil around the engine.
I tried to start it but oil start pouring out , I think I should replace the oil pump check valve ball and spring .
That's normal if the oil is coming out of the breather. If it sits a long time, the oil will get past the check ball and into the crankcase. Put a pan under it. The scavenge gears will pump more than the feed gears and it will all balance out again. It's simply a matter of gravity that the oil passes into the bottom of the case over time. Don't run the motor too low on oil. Once the problem clears up, keep oil in the tank, don't overfill. If the problem continues, then you'll need to explore further. But this is normal for an engine that has been sitting for awhile.
I’m stoned as shit watching this
Okay. Just straighten up before you turn wrenches.
Could you just remove the entire head assembly in one go instead of removing them in 2 parts? That way, you would have easy access to the 5 bolts holding the top half on?
No.
“You’ll break a fin which will also break your heart”
Better get a better aim. Tap the bottom of the rocker box with something heavy and soft.
I've got a broken bolt on front jug Not sure how far in case its broken thinking I should pull motor ? your thoughts?
Don't know which motor you have or which bolt you're referring to. Extracting bolts and studs can be very involved and I need to know what you're dealing with. Sometimes you need to find "The right guy for the job." Sometimes it requires a great deal of thought before proceeding. I need more information. Which motor? Which bolt?
84 shovel even though title gives 2 dates 88 and 91 I have STD lower cases it's the right front jug bolt I started breaking it down . Whole bike was done at local shop 5 years + ago as I bought it in a box. rear rocker box leaking as is head so just want input on if It's easier to pull motor to do top end rebuild which I'm sure it is but any tips much appreciated
It really depends on whether the topend is larger than stock. And, it depends on how you're going to address that stud. Sometimes it's hard to assess an issue I can't look at.