Hey Mike, I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to make these videos. To have someone with your experience share that knowledge with the rest of us in a manner that's enjoyable and informative is a real pleasure. I recently purchased a 72 FLH and these videos have refreshed my memory on these great engines. Looking forward to the upcoming build.
had a local local machinist counter bore my rocker spacers,set end play at 12.couldn't afford roller rockers when i did my "motor" but they are still fairly quiet after about 90,000 miles so far. great videos, makes me want to tear my "motor" down again....
I remember they used to sell shims, wave washers, cone washers, and probly others I forgot about to quiet the shovels down. They worked for a little while, until the washer broke. You are correct, a properly set up Shovel valve train is a thing of beauty mechanically speaking. Relatively quiet with a pretty little whine. Also, for those who dont know, aluminum expands at approximately twice the rate of steel and iron. This is timely, while not a Shovel I am going thru the valve train on my heritage right now. Thank you for the memories and waking up the grey matter in the way back machine.
very good about the expansion rate,,,,,,,,,,,i think i remember being taught that for every 50 degrees of temp increase aluminum expands about 5 ten thousandths and steel or iron about 3 ten thousandths....
Man, after seeing so many wavy washers/shims fall apart in an engine and work (grind) their way thru the breather bore I've been trying to warn people about them for years. So happy to see this video from you and your take on it. Thanks for publishing it and spreading the knowledge for the youngins.
I was tough to do 8 to 10 by my cousin an old time Harley man. who in the late 50's Larry was The Fonz . He is also a master machinist so I was lucky when rebuilding my 46 and 47 Indians and my 1933 Flathead Harley to have his expertise. When watching you I hear most the same information from you as I heard from him and no one explains it better that you on UA-cam. My 1972 FLH Shovel was rebuilt in 1989 I only have about 35 K and it still runs great with the usual Shovel leaks . I did the top end and had the bottom end done at Fletcher Harley Davidson in Clearwater FL it is long gone now.
WOW... I was just about to check out my rocker boxes and then bolt em back onto my heads on my 72 Shovel rebuild, then you post this. Must be ESP. :) THANK YOU! As far as your upcoming build....... IMHO it's always great to have a rigid and get it a bob job............ :-P Thanks again Mike
Great to see the Shovel getting some rocker love. Thanks for sharing the process. I wish evo’s could do that. Super excited to see what your new build will be. See you out on the road, Jim C.
Thanks Mike , I have really learned alot from your videos . Your mild manner and vast knowledge of motorcycles have blessed me tremendously. Please continue to teach and bless !!
Mike, I'm about your age. Grew up in Chicago. Their too we called a Bobber a Bobber or as your dad said a Bobbed Job. I can relate to cold on the West coast. I once had to go to training in SF a many years ago in late January. Man it was cold, so cold because I had no jacket with me I searched for one all around SF. Couldn't find one, ended up paying for an over priced sweater at the hotel. Thanks Mike.
Cold is anything colder than your body is used to. On my Shovel, I used to ride through Big Sur in the winter time. I wore an electric vest. I may be a wimp, but I'm a warm one.
Hi Mike thanks for another video. I agree with you, i never liked the idea of the rocker arm shims. I have re-made the end spacer on a lathe on occasion to get the end play within tolerance. I bet there is an aftermarket company who make them in different sizes now. The Bobber name is used so widely these days, really annoys me haha. A brand new Sportster with aftermarket coke grips isn't a Bobber! I know its only an opinion. I like to think Bobbers need to be made from a motorcycle earlier than 1960, think Wild One (film) era. Really looking forward to see your build!
Thank You. We're in agreement. Those spacers are available in standard form. They are easy to face or counterbore. Or, you can shorten the bearing surface on the shaft by turning it in a lathe. Careful, take way small steps and keep everything centered.
Thank You. We're in agreement. Those spacers are available in standard form. They are easy to face or counterbore. Or, you can shorten the bearing surface on the shaft by turning it in a lathe. Careful, take way small steps and keep everything centered.
That will be a cool bike. What a nice fender and front fork, don't paint it! My rigid travelbike is quiet confortable, the seat is suspended by a old leaf of my light truck rearsuspension, cut in half. Fixed on my frame it continue perfectly the curb. This is much better as my springs I had under my seat before. Love our videotips. Cheers from France
Mike, Hello from Pennsylvania. I appreciate the time and expertise that goes in to making your videos. I look forward to watching all the videos in building the "Bob Job" or Bobber.
your comments on the definition of a "bobber" reminds me of conversations I've heard on the definition of "chopper" which as I understand it has nothing to do with stretched front ends but instead refers to the fact that early bikers were "chopping" of parts to make the bikes faster hence the name
Yes! Thank You! My Knuckle is a Chopper. No brackets or extra parts anywhere. It does have the first extended front end, an XA Harley Davidson. But, that had nothing to do with chopping.
Got to admit I got a good chuckle out of that when he started talkin about the terminology Bobber I enjoyed you video in the middle of the night 11:00 p.m. up north in Virginia Buckroe Beach I hope this message finds you brother in great spirits and finds you well medicine man
This was a great help to me sir, I have been watching your videos from my wife's email as d.Storm but my kids helped me set up my own account so i'm giving it a test drive lol. Ya'll have a safe and happy day.
Right on ; just changing rocker box gaskets on shovelhead hopefully for last time . Putting on James steel with silicone gaskets this time instead of the paper ones . I’ll check end play on shafts . ✊👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 thank you sir -
Nice. I think I have an idea of where you're heading on this new build. I had a 48 wl at one time. I loved that bike but I often found the garage door open Saturday morning and my Dad had gone to the store on it, 2 states over. Wouldn't see him till Sunday evening...lol.
Just tore my 73 shovel down for freshening up all gaskets and seals. Had a noise on the back head a bit and was thinking valve adjustment but after getting the rocker box off and checking clearance I see what's going on. One is fine at .008 but the other is .020. That's the one making the noise. Id rather not shim it if there's a chance of breakage down the road. I'm guessing I should head over to my local machine shop and get them to make me a new spacer + .012 to match the other or maybe .010 if when tightened up it will snug it up? Thanks for the vid and your expertise . I've been a mechanic my entire life but on cars. These shovels are fun to work on I thoroughly enjoy it as something different. Pride in ones work and the satisfaction of knowing you made that motor run like it should is rewarding...
Yep. I've been able to do a lot with spacing the rocker arm end play. If you can stay on center with the valve, you can counter bore the spacer slightly for the shaft to sink in and take up the space.
I see now my XLCH is different than a Shovel. My rocker assm. has a spring so the rocker can run back and forth on the shaft. Last year I was out on the road, at night (of course), and my motor didn't sound good. One of the push rods was rattleing around in the cover and I had almost enough clearance for the rod to come out. I reset everything and was away. I had to do the same thing twice more before I got home. Everything looked good but the push rod was scuffed from running against the box. The shaft & rocker were well mated. I blue marked the rocker tip that contacts the valve and it only hit the valve in a thin line on the rocker tip. I tried contouring the rocker tip but finally replaced the rocker. I also, later, replaced the lifters & lifter blocks. The motor had run really well all year so I have no idea what happened but it seems to be okay now. I'm not generally a fan of home engineering (the factory generally knew better), but I'm tempted to turn out some solid spacers in place of the springs. And I'd REALLY like roller rockers. But I do polish the contact points and valve tips on what I have.
Sounds good to me. You're a perfect example of "learning by doing." Remember, rocker boxes expand with heat. They expand in ALL directions. Be sure you never set rocker arms too tight and center them over the valve tips.
Hi Mike, thanks for this video. I run a oil pressure gauge on the rear rocker arm shaft, it leaks a bit after riding. While refreshing the top end with new gaskets and checking the overal condition on my recently acquired 82' shovel, i didn't pay alot of attention to the rocker boxes because i had no strange sounds and it all felt and looked good. If i'm not mistaken i can just screw the oil gauge assembly out and replace the oring right? Or does it in any way contribute to the endplay? Thanks again!
Good morning mr mike. Thankyou for sharing the info on bikes. Having a problem trying to time a 1984 xl 1000. Manual is confusing , on comp Strock , front intakes on bottom. The dimple punch comes in the port hole. In forth gear , backing up the Eng, with the rear wheel the lazy 8 comes into play. 🤔. What mark would I use for timing at 2000 rpm sir. Thankyou.
I don't remember doing one of those for a long time. But, any time the manual refers to an "advance timing mark," that is the mark for the "recommended total advance." For example: if the total advance recommended is 32 degrees, then that advance timing mark is what should come up in the window at "full advance."
Hey Mike. What's the temperature where you're at? In Winnipeg MB. It is around 30°f unseasonably warm. And a foot of snow.. So I think it's warmer there..
@@pacificmike9501 Hey Mike. Over the course of the day. Mother Nature felt like keeping us locked down in winter mode. Another 4 inches of snow dropped on us. At least the temperature didn't drop that much
Thanks for the great information, I'm going to take my shovelhead apart for the first time thanks to your videos. I bought a bike with a 104 in. stroker with dual plug heads and found the rear right piston is hitting the spark plug. Any ideas why this would happen before I tear into this beast?
Wrong plug? I ran dual plugs way back when. We did them at a shop I worked at in the early eighties. I ran two different length plugs for clearance. They came out in the same place. You didn't really tell me what the heads or the rest of the motor is. I know it is 104 inches. Don't know if it has Harley heads or someone else's. I don't know what year the castings are. I've now complained enough. I used Champion J12YC plugs on the right side and N12YC on the left side. They are different reach plugs. This is without knowing what you have. Look into the plug holes and see if two different reach plugs will solve the problem. Good luck.
@@pacificmike9501 im running Autolite 85 plugs with only 3/8 in reach in the GME 7466-74H heads. The 10:1 JE piston seems scary close to the spark plug hole. Motor has the Delkron big bore cases, 3.635 bore, S&S 5 in. stroke flywheels, Carillo rods 7.440 center to center, Crane 320B cam, Crane solid lifters, Crane roller rockers, DelWest titanium valves, Manley triple valve springs, Comp Cams titanium retainers and Andrews cro mo push rods...just the basic tire smokin goodness.
Mike, Love your videos , from west Virginia ! I have been using cork ( pushrod tube ) rings instead of O rings in my shovel head for a few years to stop leakage long term , can you think of any problems with this ?
It depends on the part. External stuff, I do by hand. Internal stuff, I might have to machine. Depends on the part and the reason for polishing. Looks, or function?
First time ive come across this,.....ive recently ordered replacement rockers for my 78 shovelhead & the rockers were cast a bit too thick& rubbed thd inside of the box. I removed a few thousandths of material & reinstalled & now alk move freely....wondered about heat expansion binding them up during operation so i put th ed assembled boxes in the oven at 270 degree for a half hour,parts still move freely...do you think it should've been hotter& i should've kept in longer? Or should i be good? Thanks & God bless
Are we speaking of end play, or the swing of the arm colliding with the inside of the box? End play? My recommendation is "not less than .008". Just my opinion.
@@pacificmike9501 the outside diameter was coming into contact with the wall of the rocker box,i think i got it licked i was just wondering your opinion as to how long i might leave it in the oven for so it heats up as close to operating temp as the bike woukd be running. To make sure there's enough clearance after heat expansion without finding out after it riding down the road. The replacement rockers i got mustve been overcast to big in thickness thats what happened.
I worked for, four Harley dealers as a mechanic . It was ok to make a living but, I personally always rode Triumphs and Kawasaki. On my own time , I like riding not wrenching.
Mike this video is pretty damn good, feel like I could do this but one question I have is: If you have to use shims, should they be on the casing side of the cushion or the rocker arm side of the cushion? Thanks in advance!
Thank you sir, I'm with you, I dont want anything that can get chewed to bits in my rocker boxes either, part of the reason for my question (and buy the way I would much rather take a few thousants off the shoulder as well) but as I got my head and rocker box off the motor yesterday I found I not only have shims in one side but they are crushed and look like they were about to shred at any moment, the shims are on the casing side in between the cushion and the casing and It just doesn't even look proper, this a 1974 FXE 74CI Shovelhead, buy the way I'm buying a new set of rocker boxes for front and back it will drive me insane if I don't, and will measure and have a buddy turn the shoulder's down to what I need. The shaft is so tight it has crushed the shims into the housing..
You're saying the rocker arms are not turning freely? I would "way carefully" shorten the rocker arms (just a little) on a belt sander. Or, have a machinist do it on a mill. Remember the recommended tolerances and don't ruin a good set of rocker arms.
Hey Mike! Randy here! A little off topic here but, what’s your take on putting lithium grease on the carb to intake manifold? Will it help seal it? Do you use anything on it, or install it dry?
Hi Mike ! I can't possibly say what year your springer front end is, but if you look up a place called wheels through time the guy is a really nice bloke and he is very knowledgeable as you are but he has a heap of experience and knowledge and my guess is that you would like the guy and probably as fellow bikers even share knowledge I went there when I was in the states Cheers .
Mike, I have a 1983 FXSB and would like to get the rocker shaft end caps off the rocker boxes, to replace the gaskets. Anything special to do to remove them? On mine, the shaft just keeps spinning when trying to remove them. Any help would be appreciated! Mark
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike, I will try that. Was curious if I should try something like that or not. Have had the bike since new and have never replaced those o-ring gaskets. The are now seeping just a very little bit when riding and figured it's time to put in new. Thanks again.
@@pacificmike9501 That's exactly how I got mine off my '81 FXWG. All 4 had to be hand tightened first (tight!) then with an impact gun they spun right off. New O-rings and I added a thin washer with ultra gray on both sides - now no more leaks.
You'll probably damage it, but, it probably needs replacing anyway. I would use a hand impact driver with a blade type bit on it that's as close to the right size as you can get.
Hay mike wanted ask little more info on this 117 s&s engine I asked you about few weeks ago that was dumping all oil out of breathers on case and heads at higher rpms so I checked lines no kinks,dumped oil new filter,checked umbrellas on heads and there working grate,pulled cam breather its timed right and clear ,puller oil pump checked scavenger gears look grate key inplace,blow air throw galleys in case and pump all seem clear the big one on cam chest took sec blow air throw not sure if was pushing oil throw or what but was good the oil that gets pushed throw push rods to head the oil comes back down to cam chest and sucks out to filter to tank but is there more then one way it comes down or just the one hole just want check all bases befor I put this thing back togather cuse it was dumping all oil out breathers within 20mins at higher rpm and i still see no obvious reason and its driveing me crazy thanks for any input and anyone ealse on here that can halp me thank you to
You are super thorough. One of the things I truly believe is that I can't have an original problem. I'm inclined to agree with Joe Behanna. I try and share knowledge. But, unless I've had the problem or it's in front of me, I can't always diagnose. I think we'd all like to hear what advice S&S has to say. They know their stuff. Please keep us in the loop.
@@pacificmike9501 will do no worrys mike thank you very much for your halp with all videos you do love watching u older guys work where I've learned everything still have alot to learn but one day you have great week going be some nice weather here in California so hope u get do some rideing have good day
There were a few made after 84, but basically 84 was it. We could probably argue this one. But there were some changes made in 77 up that were really big when working in a shop and needing to remember what those changes were. 77, caged transmission bearings and all that it took to facilitate their usage, Showa suspension, 78 brought the last of ratchet lids, and then 80 inchers. Rocker boxes were made with differences in their shapes. Exactly what should be called "Late?" Just be aware and do your research. And, don't badmouth AMF. They kept it all alive.
Finding rear hinge fenders at swap meets is getting harder unless you want to pay stupid prices. Wish I'd have kept all those old parts we took off. $300-$500 for a m74 Linkert!
Hey Mike, I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to make these videos. To have someone with your experience share that knowledge with the rest of us in a manner that's enjoyable and informative is a real pleasure.
I recently purchased a 72 FLH and these videos have refreshed my memory on these great engines. Looking forward to the upcoming build.
Thank You.
Great point about expansion and over tightening.
Thank You.
had a local local machinist counter bore my rocker spacers,set end play at 12.couldn't afford roller rockers when i did my "motor" but they are still fairly quiet after about 90,000 miles so far.
great videos, makes me want to tear my "motor" down again....
Nice. And, Thank You.
I remember they used to sell shims, wave washers, cone washers, and probly others I forgot about to quiet the shovels down. They worked for a little while, until the washer broke. You are correct, a properly set up Shovel valve train is a thing of beauty mechanically speaking. Relatively quiet with a pretty little whine. Also, for those who dont know, aluminum expands at approximately twice the rate of steel and iron. This is timely, while not a Shovel I am going thru the valve train on my heritage right now. Thank you for the memories and waking up the grey matter in the way back machine.
Thank You. I think I live in the "way back" machine. And, I ain't comin' out "til things improve.
very good about the expansion rate,,,,,,,,,,,i think i remember being taught that for every 50 degrees of temp increase aluminum expands about 5 ten thousandths and steel or iron about 3 ten thousandths....
If you find those wavy washers in there throw them away as fast as you can, redone bottom ends toasted from the schrapnel they make when they fail.
Man, after seeing so many wavy washers/shims fall apart in an engine and work (grind) their way thru the breather bore I've been trying to warn people about them for years. So happy to see this video from you and your take on it. Thanks for publishing it and spreading the knowledge for the youngins.
Thank You.
still wonder where the ramjet wavy shims went?.....vaporized? bike motor ate them...
Wavy washers brought me here, that $19.95 kit cost me $1500.
Learning all the time. Thanks Mike 👍🏻
Thank You. There's no end to it.
I was tough to do 8 to 10 by my cousin an old time Harley man. who in the late 50's Larry was The Fonz . He is also a master machinist so I was lucky when rebuilding my 46 and 47 Indians and my 1933 Flathead Harley to have his expertise. When watching you I hear most the same information from you as I heard from him and no one explains it better that you on UA-cam. My 1972 FLH Shovel was rebuilt in 1989 I only have about 35 K and it still runs great with the usual Shovel leaks . I did the top end and had the bottom end done at Fletcher Harley Davidson in Clearwater FL it is long gone now.
Thank You. Really great stuff.
WOW... I was just about to check out my rocker boxes and then bolt em back onto my heads on my 72 Shovel rebuild, then you post this. Must be ESP. :) THANK YOU!
As far as your upcoming build....... IMHO it's always great to have a rigid and get it a bob job............ :-P
Thanks again Mike
Thank You.
awesome. cant wait to watch the build
Thank You. Me too.
Great to see the Shovel getting some rocker love. Thanks for sharing the process. I wish evo’s could do that. Super excited to see what your new build will be. See you out on the road, Jim C.
Thank You. And, we will.
Thanks Mike , I have really learned alot from your videos . Your mild manner and vast knowledge of motorcycles have blessed me tremendously. Please continue to teach and bless !!
Thank You. And, the best to you.
Thanks Mike.
Thank You.
Mike, I'm about your age. Grew up in Chicago. Their too we called a Bobber a Bobber or as your dad said a Bobbed Job. I can relate to cold on the West coast. I once had to go to training in SF a many years ago in late January. Man it was cold, so cold because I had no jacket with me I searched for one all around SF. Couldn't find one, ended up paying for an over priced sweater at the hotel. Thanks Mike.
Cold is anything colder than your body is used to. On my Shovel, I used to ride through Big Sur in the winter time. I wore an electric vest. I may be a wimp, but I'm a warm one.
Hi Mike thanks for another video. I agree with you, i never liked the idea of the rocker arm shims. I have re-made the end spacer on a lathe on occasion to get the end play within tolerance. I bet there is an aftermarket company who make them in different sizes now.
The Bobber name is used so widely these days, really annoys me haha. A brand new Sportster with aftermarket coke grips isn't a Bobber! I know its only an opinion. I like to think Bobbers need to be made from a motorcycle earlier than 1960, think Wild One (film) era. Really looking forward to see your build!
Thank You. We're in agreement. Those spacers are available in standard form. They are easy to face or counterbore. Or, you can shorten the bearing surface on the shaft by turning it in a lathe. Careful, take way small steps and keep everything centered.
Thank You. We're in agreement. Those spacers are available in standard form. They are easy to face or counterbore. Or, you can shorten the bearing surface on the shaft by turning it in a lathe. Careful, take way small steps and keep everything centered.
Mike thanks it is a privilege see your videos.
Thank You.
I'm loving it already, can't wait to see more. Great info. Keep it up. 🤘
Thank You.
That will be a cool bike. What a nice fender and front fork, don't paint it! My rigid travelbike is quiet confortable, the seat is suspended by a old leaf of my light truck rearsuspension, cut in half. Fixed on my frame it continue perfectly the curb. This is much better as my springs I had under my seat before. Love our videotips. Cheers from France
Thank You.
Nice job explaining the rocker arm assembly & clearances..
Thank You.
Top notch video ! Thank you !
Very welcome!
The videos are a great help. Thankyou.
Glad they help you.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Great stuff here.
Thank You.
Love your channel. I'm 53 and just bought my 4th shovelhead. I've been hooked on them since I was a kid. Keep up the good work!
Thank You. I love my Shovel too. It's been my main bike since I bought it new, in 1978 (It was a year old model, still new on the dealer's floor).
Mike, I really like your videos. I learn something on every one. You are a natural teacher. Keep on!
Thanks, will do!
Great stuff love the old shovels Mike keep up the good work !
Thank You.
...love where you are going with your build currently...many would kill for that VL springer :)
Yah, it's cool.
Another great video......Thanks Mike
Thank You.
Thanks uncle mike,always had a good info.
Thank You.
You are such a tease. Can't wait to see what kind of MOTOR your going to put in it.
Me too.
Mike, Hello from Pennsylvania. I appreciate the time and expertise that goes in to making your videos. I look forward to watching all the videos in building the "Bob Job" or Bobber.
Thank You.
your comments on the definition of a "bobber" reminds me of conversations I've heard on the definition of "chopper" which as I understand it has nothing to do with stretched front ends but instead refers to the fact that early bikers were "chopping" of parts to make the bikes faster hence the name
Yes! Thank You! My Knuckle is a Chopper. No brackets or extra parts anywhere. It does have the first extended front end, an XA Harley Davidson. But, that had nothing to do with chopping.
Correct.
I love your videos. It is warming up here in Iowa. Out on two wheels again.
Thank You. Glad to hear it!
GREAT VIDEO, MIKE
Thank You.
Thanks again for a great Video Mike!
Thank You.
Pacific Mike Thank You! 😃
Great video Mike great content very entertaining 👍
Thank You.
Got to admit I got a good chuckle out of that when he started talkin about the terminology Bobber I enjoyed you video in the middle of the night 11:00 p.m. up north in Virginia Buckroe Beach I hope this message finds you brother in great spirits and finds you well medicine man
Glad you enjoyed it.
This was a great help to me sir, I have been watching your videos from my wife's email as d.Storm but my kids helped me set up my own account so i'm giving it a test drive lol. Ya'll have a safe and happy day.
That is awesome!
Great video 👍
Thank You.
I'm taking on this job tomorrow,I'll be using this video as a reference.
Best wishes from Northern Ireland
Best wishes to you. Take it slow. It's really worth the effort.
I love shovels!
Thank You. Me too.
Good stuff Mike, I just recently had a rocker arm seize to the shaft on a new shovel motor.
Thank You. Okay, too tight? No oil? End Play? Bushing not fitted to the shaft? Somebody missed something in the build.
@@pacificmike9501 no oil, not sure how but when I tore it down I found bits of rubber plugging the rocker oil line to the front box.
Good stuff
Thank You.
Cool!
Thank You.
Right on ; just changing rocker box gaskets on shovelhead hopefully for last time . Putting on James steel with silicone gaskets this time instead of the paper ones . I’ll check end play on shafts . ✊👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 thank you sir -
Thank You.
Thank You.
Nice. I think I have an idea of where you're heading on this new build. I had a 48 wl at one time. I loved that bike but I often found the garage door open Saturday morning and my Dad had gone to the store on it, 2 states over. Wouldn't see him till Sunday evening...lol.
Thank You. Fun Stuff.
We rode yesterday in Maine ,it is cold here Mike, it was 43 degrees in my town ,45 min ride but was a ride adios from Maine, see you on the road
I've ridden in a lot of cold. Sometimes it's really hard, but I'm glad you got to do it.
Just tore my 73 shovel down for freshening up all gaskets and seals. Had a noise on the back head a bit and was thinking valve adjustment but after getting the rocker box off and checking clearance I see what's going on. One is fine at .008 but the other is .020. That's the one making the noise. Id rather not shim it if there's a chance of breakage down the road. I'm guessing I should head over to my local machine shop and get them to make me a new spacer + .012 to match the other or maybe .010 if when tightened up it will snug it up? Thanks for the vid and your expertise . I've been a mechanic my entire life but on cars. These shovels are fun to work on I thoroughly enjoy it as something different. Pride in ones work and the satisfaction of knowing you made that motor run like it should is rewarding...
Yep. I've been able to do a lot with spacing the rocker arm end play. If you can stay on center with the valve, you can counter bore the spacer slightly for the shaft to sink in and take up the space.
@@pacificmike9501 Ok I see what your saying. I'll figure something out. Thanks for the tip...
Mike, when you showed the rear fender and talked about the old days bob job it was a bit comical and entertaining in a good way 🙃
Thank You.
I see now my XLCH is different than a Shovel. My rocker assm. has a spring so the rocker can run back and forth on the shaft. Last year I was out on the road, at night (of course), and my motor didn't sound good. One of the push rods was rattleing around in the cover and I had almost enough clearance for the rod to come out. I reset everything and was away. I had to do the same thing twice more before I got home. Everything looked good but the push rod was scuffed from running against the box. The shaft & rocker were well mated. I blue marked the rocker tip that contacts the valve and it only hit the valve in a thin line on the rocker tip. I tried contouring the rocker tip but finally replaced the rocker. I also, later, replaced the lifters & lifter blocks. The motor had run really well all year so I have no idea what happened but it seems to be okay now.
I'm not generally a fan of home engineering (the factory generally knew better), but I'm tempted to turn out some solid spacers in place of the springs. And I'd REALLY like roller rockers. But I do polish the contact points and valve tips on what I have.
Sounds good to me. You're a perfect example of "learning by doing." Remember, rocker boxes expand with heat. They expand in ALL directions. Be sure you never set rocker arms too tight and center them over the valve tips.
Train sound cool
Yah...
Hi Mike, thanks for this video. I run a oil pressure gauge on the rear rocker arm shaft, it leaks a bit after riding. While refreshing the top end with new gaskets and checking the overal condition on my recently acquired 82' shovel, i didn't pay alot of attention to the rocker boxes because i had no strange sounds and it all felt and looked good. If i'm not mistaken i can just screw the oil gauge assembly out and replace the oring right? Or does it in any way contribute to the endplay? Thanks again!
Yep. You're fine. The shaft is held in place by the other end. You're just basically removing and reinstalling the end cap and o-ring.
Neet 🖖🏽🏍
Thank You.
Believe I saw you at the LB swap couple of Sundays back.
I was there. Introduce yourself. You're important.
Good morning mr mike. Thankyou for sharing the info on bikes. Having a problem trying to time a 1984 xl 1000. Manual is confusing , on comp Strock , front intakes on bottom. The dimple punch comes in the port hole. In forth gear , backing up the Eng, with the rear wheel the lazy 8 comes into play. 🤔. What mark would I use for timing at 2000 rpm sir. Thankyou.
I don't remember doing one of those for a long time. But, any time the manual refers to an "advance timing mark," that is the mark for the "recommended total advance." For example: if the total advance recommended is 32 degrees, then that advance timing mark is what should come up in the window at "full advance."
Hey Mike. What's the temperature where you're at? In Winnipeg MB. It is around 30°f unseasonably warm. And a foot of snow.. So I think it's warmer there..
Yes, it's warmer. I didn't mean to complain.
@@pacificmike9501 Hey Mike. Over the course of the day. Mother Nature felt like keeping us locked down in winter mode. Another 4 inches of snow dropped on us. At least the temperature didn't drop that much
Thanks for the great information, I'm going to take my shovelhead apart for the first time thanks to your videos. I bought a bike with a 104 in. stroker with dual plug heads and found the rear right piston is hitting the spark plug. Any ideas why this would happen before I tear into this beast?
Wrong plug? I ran dual plugs way back when. We did them at a shop I worked at in the early eighties. I ran two different length plugs for clearance. They came out in the same place. You didn't really tell me what the heads or the rest of the motor is. I know it is 104 inches. Don't know if it has Harley heads or someone else's. I don't know what year the castings are. I've now complained enough. I used Champion J12YC plugs on the right side and N12YC on the left side. They are different reach plugs. This is without knowing what you have. Look into the plug holes and see if two different reach plugs will solve the problem. Good luck.
@@pacificmike9501 im running Autolite 85 plugs with only 3/8 in reach in the GME 7466-74H heads. The 10:1 JE piston seems scary close to the spark plug hole. Motor has the Delkron big bore cases, 3.635 bore, S&S 5 in. stroke flywheels, Carillo rods 7.440 center to center, Crane 320B cam, Crane solid lifters, Crane roller rockers, DelWest titanium valves, Manley triple valve springs, Comp Cams titanium retainers and Andrews cro mo push rods...just the basic tire smokin goodness.
Mike, Love your videos , from west Virginia ! I have been using cork ( pushrod tube ) rings instead of O rings in my shovel head for a few years
to stop leakage long term , can you think of any problems with this ?
You just told me. It works well.
👍
Thank You.
Great info Mike & love the vids! Mike you mention your friend Junior in the other vid would that happen to be Junior Hendey?
You bet. Haven't talked with him since, let's see, day before yesterday.
@@pacificmike9501 Treated me like a Brother for years Love Junior a real Diamond!
Hey Mike, i watch your videos and I have a question, if I use hydraulic lifters should I invest in the roller rockers instead of the stock style
I don't know if there's any real gain. I like them. I've run them. I like the sound. I don't know what else to tell you.
How do polish your engine parts? Do you sand blast or soda blast it yourself or do you have a shop do it for you?
It depends on the part. External stuff, I do by hand. Internal stuff, I might have to machine. Depends on the part and the reason for polishing. Looks, or function?
...did you touch-up or re-grind the arm contact surfaces?
They are "roller" rocker arms.
Nice video. Do these same procedures apply to Ironhead Sportsters as well ?
They're a little different. Consult your service manual.
So you're measuring btwn the pad and the shoulder?
Yep.
First time ive come across this,.....ive recently ordered replacement rockers for my 78 shovelhead & the rockers were cast a bit too thick& rubbed thd inside of the box. I removed a few thousandths of material & reinstalled & now alk move freely....wondered about heat expansion binding them up during operation so i put th ed assembled boxes in the oven at 270 degree for a half hour,parts still move freely...do you think it should've been hotter& i should've kept in longer? Or should i be good?
Thanks & God bless
Are we speaking of end play, or the swing of the arm colliding with the inside of the box? End play? My recommendation is "not less than .008". Just my opinion.
@@pacificmike9501 the outside diameter was coming into contact with the wall of the rocker box,i think i got it licked i was just wondering your opinion as to how long i might leave it in the oven for so it heats up as close to operating temp as the bike woukd be running.
To make sure there's enough clearance after heat expansion without finding out after it riding down the road.
The replacement rockers i got mustve been overcast to big in thickness thats what happened.
I have a Yamaha FJR with 78,000 miles on it and have never had to do any of those things! I am thinking maybe next year of changing the spark plugs!
Cool. But, for some of us, it's not what we "Have" to do. It's what we "Get" to do.
I worked for, four Harley dealers as a mechanic . It was ok to make a living but, I personally always rode Triumphs and Kawasaki. On my own time , I like riding not wrenching.
Mike this video is pretty damn good, feel like I could do this but one question I have is: If you have to use shims, should they be on the casing side of the cushion or the rocker arm side of the cushion? Thanks in advance!
I believe I explained, I don't use shims on my rocker arms.
Thank you sir, I'm with you, I dont want anything that can get chewed to bits in my rocker boxes either, part of the reason for my question (and buy the way I would much rather take a few thousants off the shoulder as well) but as I got my head and rocker box off the motor yesterday I found I not only have shims in one side but they are crushed and look like they were about to shred at any moment, the shims are on the casing side in between the cushion and the casing and It just doesn't even look proper, this a 1974 FXE 74CI Shovelhead, buy the way I'm buying a new set of rocker boxes for front and back it will drive me insane if I don't, and will measure and have a buddy turn the shoulder's down to what I need. The shaft is so tight it has crushed the shims into the housing..
Hi Mike, What to do if you have no play at all an the rockers are a bit tight?? thank you, '76 shovel
You're saying the rocker arms are not turning freely? I would "way carefully" shorten the rocker arms (just a little) on a belt sander. Or, have a machinist do it on a mill. Remember the recommended tolerances and don't ruin a good set of rocker arms.
Hey Mike! Randy here! A little off topic here but, what’s your take on putting lithium grease on the carb to intake manifold? Will it help seal it? Do you use anything on it, or install it dry?
Yes, a perfect application. Much better than dry.
Pacific Mike
Done deal! Thanks!
Hi Mike ! I can't possibly say what year your springer front end is, but if you look up a place called wheels through time the guy is a really nice bloke and he is very knowledgeable as you are but he has a heap of experience and knowledge and my guess is that you would like the guy and probably as fellow bikers even share knowledge I went there when I was in the states Cheers .
Yes, he's quite a guy.
Mike, I have a 1983 FXSB and would like to get the rocker shaft end caps off the rocker boxes, to replace the gaskets. Anything special to do to remove them? On mine, the shaft just keeps spinning when trying to remove them. Any help would be appreciated! Mark
Tighten both ends. Now use (and I hate to do this) an impact (preferably air) wrench to "surprise" them off. Not nice, but, it works. Be careful.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike, I will try that. Was curious if I should try something like that or not. Have had the bike since new and have never replaced those o-ring gaskets. The are now seeping just a very little bit when riding and figured it's time to put in new. Thanks again.
I understand. Once they start weeping, they just get worse.
@@pacificmike9501 That's exactly how I got mine off my '81 FXWG. All 4 had to be hand tightened first (tight!) then with an impact gun they spun right off. New O-rings and I added a thin washer with ultra gray on both sides - now no more leaks.
🍻🇺🇸
Thank You.
How can I remove slotted rocker arm shaft 'cap' from shaft, doesn't want to come off any ideas?
You'll probably damage it, but, it probably needs replacing anyway. I would use a hand impact driver with a blade type bit on it that's as close to the right size as you can get.
@@pacificmike9501 Hand impact worked much appreciated!
Hope it's a 45 or flat head 80 ci. On your next build
Thank You. I'm just hoping for "cool."
Hay mike wanted ask little more info on this 117 s&s engine I asked you about few weeks ago that was dumping all oil out of breathers on case and heads at higher rpms so I checked lines no kinks,dumped oil new filter,checked umbrellas on heads and there working grate,pulled cam breather its timed right and clear ,puller oil pump checked scavenger gears look grate key inplace,blow air throw galleys in case and pump all seem clear the big one on cam chest took sec blow air throw not sure if was pushing oil throw or what but was good the oil that gets pushed throw push rods to head the oil comes back down to cam chest and sucks out to filter to tank but is there more then one way it comes down or just the one hole just want check all bases befor I put this thing back togather cuse it was dumping all oil out breathers within 20mins at higher rpm and i still see no obvious reason and its driveing me crazy thanks for any input and anyone ealse on here that can halp me thank you to
I would contact s&s and ask thier techs so you can go into details together.
@@joebehanna5894 ya really thinking that cuse I'm stumped
You are super thorough. One of the things I truly believe is that I can't have an original problem. I'm inclined to agree with Joe Behanna. I try and share knowledge. But, unless I've had the problem or it's in front of me, I can't always diagnose. I think we'd all like to hear what advice S&S has to say. They know their stuff. Please keep us in the loop.
Thank You. Good Point.
@@pacificmike9501 will do no worrys mike thank you very much for your halp with all videos you do love watching u older guys work where I've learned everything still have alot to learn but one day you have great week going be some nice weather here in California so hope u get do some rideing have good day
Hello Mike I know what you mean about it's too cold to do much outside regards Alan from across the pond wish I had been born American
And I find your life interesting.Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 well thank you Mike my wife thinks I'm a little Eccentric but I love harleys so that can't be bad regards Alan from the UK
What is considered a late-model Shovel? Mine is an '81.
I have a 79 myself, i think they quit making them around 84 85.
There were a few made after 84, but basically 84 was it. We could probably argue this one. But there were some changes made in 77 up that were really big when working in a shop and needing to remember what those changes were. 77, caged transmission bearings and all that it took to facilitate their usage, Showa suspension, 78 brought the last of ratchet lids, and then 80 inchers. Rocker boxes were made with differences in their shapes. Exactly what should be called "Late?" Just be aware and do your research. And, don't badmouth AMF. They kept it all alive.
Maybe just maybe a wishbone rigid frame?
Or maybe something a little older.
Finding rear hinge fenders at swap meets is getting harder unless you want to pay stupid prices. Wish I'd have kept all those old parts we took off. $300-$500 for a m74 Linkert!
Yep. That's how it works.
Ram Jet seal all the way...they seem to last for EVER!
Good invention, from Roger Ram Jett, an great friend that I really miss. I think he's inventing parts for the greatest biker of all.
Bobbbbbbbbbb It Brooooooo
Excuse me?
Lol I was being goofy referring to your Bob Tail fender Mike Keep on What you do best Mike You are so much Appreciated Thank you so much!
Goofy works fine around here.
I’ve always avoided rollers for the exact reason you don’t like shims
I like the rollers. I like the sound of them gliding. But, apparently, not this time.
@@pacificmike9501 👍
You’ll never like Boston
Probably in the Summertime.