Everest 2023 Season Summary and Coming Home
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- The 2023 Everest spring season is over, with some records to take pride in and others to be avoided. If there were one word to summarize the season, it would be chaotic or perhaps deadly. This spring was the deadliest season in history on Everest.
Nepal issued a record 478 climbing permits to foreigners. Add in one and a half Sherpa supporting each foreigner; over 1,200 people pursued the summit this spring. Fears were rampant of a 2019 repeat with long lines and deaths. The lines never developed, thanks in part to colder weather that sent a higher number of climbers home in mid-season, many with a persistent virus. However, the deaths developed, but not because of the record permits or climate change. These are red herrings to abdicate responsibility.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
I wish the season was longer, just so I can listen to more videos like these! ❤
next year :)
I'm a 75 year old guy, going to trek and climb to camp #2 next year. I've been watching your reports and have been nothing but inspired by them Thank you. Climb On!
Thanks Jim, train for the altitude (cardio-vascular) and go with the right team. Glad to help if I can.
@@AlanArnetteClimbs 2 1/2 years training, complete physical, climbed Mt Shasta, going to Aconcagua in August. Thanks
@@jimough2441 can I ask you who are trekking this? Looking at/hoping/dreaming about this in a couple years with an older friend. I'm 65.
@@elizabethmarshall3558 Going with Ian Taylor, out of Colorado.
Good team.
Thank you for your weekly updates and amazing storytelling this season. Im no mountaineer, and likely never will be. But I have always been infatuated with the most prestigious mountain in all of our land. Including all the stories of the couragous pioneers. Over the years Ive soaked up about every documentary on cable tv and the internet of Everest. Im just a 40 year old guy in Texas that has become immeresed with all the stories and nature of the highest peak in the land.
So pleased you liked these.
Me too! ❤
Same!
Gelje Sherpa, 30, was guiding a Chinese client to the 8,849 metre Everest summit on May 18 when he saw the Malaysian climber clinging to a rope and shivering he hauled the climber 600 metres down over a period of about six hours, where Nima Tahi Sherpa, another guide, joined the rescue. "We wrapped the climber in a sleeping mat, dragged him on the snow or carried him in turns on our backs to Camp III," Gelje said.
Absolutely love your channel and these annual Everest updates. This is an utterly fascinating and awe inspiring subject for me as ever as someone who won’t ever be climbing it myself !
Glad you enjoyed it, Lou Lou
I trekked up in Everest Park right through the last weeks of April and most of May when most of the summiting was happening. I now have the utmost respect for any person who even only goes to EBC. Going up , "mati " at alttitude is hard even below EBC especially when you are on the wrong side of seventy as I am. Respect to all who made the summit and those that didn't and those that lost their lives.
Nice!
Best summit I ever did Alan. I was there, and I was crying when I got down.
You had me really there. Thank you. Just that tiny bit through your story. Awesome!
Thanks Ria. This means a lot to me that it meant a lot to you.
Great blog Alan. Again your experience shines through. I sure hope people listen to your advise, as one death on Everest is one death too many.
You are a gem! I so enjoy listening to your thoughtful narratives and remain greatly intrigued by what inspires people to climb Everest. Congratulations on your successful climbing career, including the "failures". Of course WE know that an attempt is never a failure. Failure is never attempting to try something in the first place. You have earned the right to sit in that chair and help us live vicariously through those fighting through the most difficult conditions to reach their goals. I love hiking and spending quality time with Mother Nature but as a person who experienced a full fledged panic attack during my visit to the top of the World Trade Center, I discovered that climbing tall mountains would never be for me. You guide people through the experience of the ups and downs, literally. Your willingness to share your knowledge and unique perspective is greatly appreciated! Good on you, Sir. Respect!
Thank you Julie, you are very kind.
Amazing narrative...thanks for sharing Alan!
I heard it was so cold Alan, that some of the Amish climbers were using electric blankets at Base Camp! And that even some the yaks had goosebumps and were seen wearing North Face gear!😁
I gotta say this- somebody's going to get severely beat-up and/or injured if this kind of theft keeps up and the perpetrators get caught! You know as well as I do that the climbers/outfits spend a lot of money and, one of these days it's going to be someone who was a victim of theft before, has had enough, and there going to take matters into their own hands. It's pretty unfortunate that these cylinders, equipment, etc. can't simply be left alone without having to worry about others taking your stuff! Also, people's lives are potentially at stake! Unbelievable!
Great job as usual Alan! You've come to impact and influence a lot of people in high-altitude mountaineering with your channel!👌
Thanks Ed. Yeah. The theft has the opportunity to turn ugly like the 2013 fight.
Great stuff..thanks for the weekly posts
I’ve been following for a few years now. Thank you, Alan, for all your dedication and hard work. I’m always particularly impressed with your measured reason. You just make too much damn sense! Be well! ❤
I appreciate this Kate. Thank you, and for your loyalty.
That was so lovely. Thank you, Alan, for doing this.
Thanks!
Thanks for all you do!! Can we go to K2? Puhhhhlllllleeeeeaaaaasssseeee. 🙏🥰❤
Lol!!!! Thank you.
I really appreciate yr narrative on the Everest climb. I get dizzy 3 rungs up a ladder so will never see and feel what you have done. I would love to experience a K2 climb vicariously too, please if you can. Climb on!
love the stories!
Be fun to hear you do a K2 narrative in the future. Thanks for your work.
Thank you very much! That was great. Your analysis of the season (with all your valuable background knowledge and all your humanity) as well as your fantastic narration. So glad to have found your channel and thank you from the bottom of my heart. It's all so educational and good. Good luck with your book and all, all the best to you, your family and your Marvin!
Great update .
I follow the UA-cam channel of an independent professional mountain guide named Gesman Tamang who has his own independent company called Ukalo Nepal. He is the person who recently guided the blind climber from Mexico up Mount Everest. Perhaps you could address in a future podcast the advantages or disadvantages of dealing with an independent guide vs. one of the large foreign companies, what to look for, or beware of when selecting one, etc. You touched on this briefly, in this podcast, but a more in depth discussion of this topic would be appreciated.
Great podcast, as usual.
Your descriptive narrative is fantastic!!
Thanks!!
Thanks Nancy. Good idea.
Got me real emotional on these narratives, especially this one. I really felt kind of lost . That feeling when you meet a monumental goal and now you are back to everyday life. I think anyone who went to Everest base camp even deserves praise. Thats not an easy journey.
Thank you, very kind.
Alan this is my favourite youtube channel!! Thank you 🙏
Great job Alan of capturing the feelings one has after successfully summiting. I have never given that part of the experience much consideration. But your emotional story set me straight. Thanks!
Thanks Bert. Often these stories stop when someone summits, but there’s a lot more to tell.
Just stumbled across this channel. What an outstanding and unique storyteller. In an age where it feels like we're losing the ability to do this...Alan stands out like a beacon. Sorta guy that would be great to have a beer with and as an Englishman, that's the highest compliment I can pay.
Appreciate this, Thomas. Cheers.
Just listened to the latest podcast. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Is that the final episode? Will miss you Alan!! 😊
Thanks S. Probably for this season but more to come for others.
Well done on a fabulous season thoroughly enjoyed this sea, here's to the next 🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦
Been reading your blog for years now. Found out you also had a podcast. Great stuff. I guess I have a lot of catching up to do. Unfortunatelly it's the end of the season. Do you also report on the winter climbs?
Thanks, Tim. I'll switch to Pakistan for the summer (K2 and the rest), then Cho and Manalsu in Autumn, and if there is a winter activity, I'll cover it. But Everest spring has been my primary coverage for years. Historically, there's been more information available, but times are changing with a lot of lies and spin, so it is tough to get the truth.
@@AlanArnetteClimbs maybe AI can help you?
Is there a website that is good at covering mountaineering expeditions in general? I look forward to the coverage every year Alan! Thank you!
Sure lot's of them but explorersweb is a good one
I've become a bit obsessed with Everest this year, I've loved your updates, thank you 😊
Well done. Another season under our belts.
Yup. I exhausted and I never left home! :) :)
Thank you this will be the nearest I get to Everest 👍
Glad you came along!
You mentioned climbers’ prior bouts with Covid were blamed for inability to summit. I wonder if there’s much detail on facts such as seriousness of illness,
how long before the climb the disease was contracted, and why the climbers believed there was no other suitable explanation for their turnaround. Also interesting to know how many performed well despite having had Covid.
All good questions but the link is a theory from a Kathmandu hospital so I don’t expect much follow-up.
Soo good
Lol! I enjoyed your post climb narrative thoroughly! "What's next?" 😂
It's that old adage, "You get what you pay for."
15 sherpas for 1 client?!? That’s insane. Dude must be rich to pay for that 😮
Great work. The increasing death rate is concerning. It seems the explanation is complex. The yellow brick road has still not been built.
Not will it ever. My condolences to Dorthy. 😇
Amazing watching your videos. Thanks for the great first-hand perspective. Great tip about the sleeping bag, too.
Thnanks! Yeah, the bag trick really works, especially if you have a Gortex coating on the outside.
Bravo!
Do climbers who use low oxygen tents at home perform a lot better than the others? It is always good to hear your reports
Mixed. A lot depends on the individual’s fitness. If you are dedicated enough to use the tent, your personality is probably suited to work out and go there in top “Everest Shape” (physically, emotionally and mentally prepared). To be sure, it’s not a substitute for overall preparation
I thought it might be like trying to learn french while sleeping.
Lol!!! Exactly!!
Love your analysis, they should pay you for the free advice! I hope the authority in charge hear it.
I think they think my advice is worth what they pay me!🤪🤪
@@AlanArnetteClimbsLol! They can't have you encroaching on their $3-5MM of effortless income.
I don't know how to use this this information but i guess, thanks. UA-cam algorithm
Welcome anyway!
I've always liked listening to the updates you post. I'm always left a little unsettled by the narratives though because all of the sources that I've heard from the perspective of people like Dala have a different perspective; One that ultimately paints a very exploitive picture.
Different people will have different experiences obviously. These narratives are designed to reflect my experiences, so while there were issues at times, overall they have been a blessing in my life and made me a better person, I believe. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for all you do to cover the Everest climbing season's... I seldom watch any of these UA-cam videos that are over 5 or 10 minutes max... Your videos are very riveting, and I'm hooked... You do a very good job at keeping it interesting from start to finish... "Climb On".!!! Oh, and thanks for NOT going down that "Climate Change" rabbit hole.!!! "What's Next".??? God willing, see you next season... THANKS.!!!
What part of the world do you live in?
Alan the ice ax right above your head on the back wall - did you use that on Everest?
Yes. My ice axe on Everest and gloves (not always visible) on K2. Those are my summit photos and certificates. My vanity wall!🤪🤪🤪
@@AlanArnetteClimbs well-deserved! I only became infatuated with that mountain in my low 60s. Way to go that you sumitted there and elsewhere. I've hiked a 9, 000' peak here in Montana so that's a little something. 😊
9000 is nothing little. Well done!
I bet if they passed a law that if you pay to climb, those who accompany you cant cooolect the whole amount till you are done, that would cut down on deaths too. Got to bring them back alive to get paid
Interesting idea.
@Alan Arnette obviously its not fully thought out but the mere concept is something to build off of. They should absolutely be holding commercial outfits liable for their decisions
Same with garbage..expectation you bring back more than you take you dont get a massive deposit back..make it really really expensive..wish there was an association or something to be banned from. It could be better thats for sure!!
I’m very eager to hear your thoughts on reports of oxygen theft and rope sabotage this season.
I haven’t seen any death reports as far as rope sabotage goes. I think it comes down to. He said he said is whoever you wanna believe
With 200 helicopter rescue missions, they might as well put in a runway and air traffic control at camp 2, right? Now, let's get down to brass tacks here. I've got a brilliant solution up my sleeve. Hand out permits like confetti at a ticker-tape parade, doesn't matter. But before you can even think of going to EBC, you're heading to Kathmandu to spend six beautiful hours on a stair climber in a high-altitude tent adjusted to a cool 4.5k meters. Didn't make the cut? Oh well, you're out, permit and all. This way, we don't have to see Sherpas risk their lives hauling you down the mountainside.
The trash is the #1 concern by the general public.
Or the deaths?
If I ever think of climbing Everest I would go with Russell Brice he has send people home because he didn’t think they will make it
He sold his guiding business years ago but was clearly a pioneer and one of the best operators who took care of his staff and put the safety of them and his clients as top priority.
@@AlanArnetteClimbs I didn’t know he sold his company. And a other reason I would sort of climb it be to find a by pass to the Khumbu Icefall
Look at Alpenglow and Furtenbach for north (Tibet) side climbs if you want to avoid the Icefall.
This is common with America's Military Combat Forces and their spouses.
🇺🇸 This kind of thing happens every few weeks.
Just wanted to say you have gone above and beyond in documenting the history of what went down this year. Much respect salute 🫡
💪🏔️ 🤟
Thanks
Even CNN had a front page story this week about a rescue. :-)
The fact that every year, there are multiple deaths is CRAZY. This is an insane phenomenon that humans chose to risk it all for selfies, self gratification and personal goals.
Well personally I’m waiting for the elevator. Seriously I saw the lines this year and just thought how on earth is that safe. You can’t stand almost still for 2-3 hours.
My question for all the summiteers, is there a point where Everest summit gets devalued by the inexperienced people accomplishing it ?
I think you are insane to even attempt a summit without tons and tons of experience. But as we see Sherpas carrying people back , this problem still exists.
I’ll stick to waiting and enjoying the view via the climbers who record it. I know when I’m not able to do things!!! This is a death March for me. I’m cold at 60 degrees.
The lines you saw were probably old pictures from 2019. There were little to no lines this year with over ten summit days whereas ‘19 had 3. Social media and the mainstream press regularly uses old material and recycles myths as click bait. And it works. All that said I estimate that at least 10 of the 17 deaths were preventable. The summit only matters the person trying, so any devaluation would be in their own accomplishment.
Nepal! Only do what’s necessary to assist the sherpas.
Every climber at Everest knows that they can lose their life there. I know it sitting on my damn sofa watching UA-cam in the U.S. Let people pursue their adventure and stop trying to protect grown folks from themselves.
Some of us only want the experience and f one 8k ft mountain, not two.
People getting helicoptered from camp 2? do you see that as a proper climb ie do you go home saying you successfully climbed the mountain or should you at least get back to base camp or in my thoughts you should really walk back to Lukla
I believe you need to climb from the mountains lowest point ie base camp it beginning of the “trail” to the summit and back, otherwise it was not a true summit. I always preferred to walk back to Lukla from EBC but that doesn’t impact the summit definition for me.
Thanks Alan I thought that might be the case Surely it must at least be base camp to top and back under your own steam