Your tip on how to set the depth of cut by slipping the hinge between the depth stop and the depth adjuster was brilliant. Thank you for that. The rest of the video was clear, concise and easy to follow.. Top marks.
Thank you, you saved me. Got the same router and tried to use it for the hinges but had no idea how to use it, and that piece of timber on the fence is brilliant. I will try again now. Thank you again.
You could title this How to hinge a slab door in six minutes, I believe the term "Spot On" applies here. The tip about setting the depth is gold! Thanks for letting us look over your shoulders!
Mate, I wish I could give you a pat on your back! I've got 8 fire doors to hang, 3 hinges on each, not done much carpentry in the 16yrs since my apprenticeship, so just spent about 2hrs looking at vids on homemade hinge jigs, then this pops up, the simplicity is it's genius! And the trick for setting the depth, magnificent! Thanks again chap!
Glad to help. Small routers are great for this. Been doing hinges this way for few years now. You can also do the hinges on the door lining but only if the door stop is removed. Hope the doors go well.
@@jockey1304 They didn't! Someone else had done the door linings, they were all out, one was so bad that when I put my 6ft level upright against it, it touched the lining at the bottom and I could get my hand behind it at the top, no joke! Consequently it ended up taking an age to complete them.
Great vid. Try out another idea: Position the hinge where it's suppose to sit on the door. Get a sharp Stanley knife. Score around the hinge. Palm router out the depth of hinge required. No chisels needed. I've done many times, hell of a lot quicker. It might work for you, it might not. I'd say have a go on a block of wood beforehand.
No issue, you can leave a little gap if that suits you. As long as the offset is the same on the door and lining. I have always set mine to the door edge. Just what I was taught when I was 16.
There are some hand routers you can use, follow the link below to see what they look like. They are ok to use but need constant adjustment to get to the correct depth. Not that hinge recesses are very deep. www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fcdn.axminster.co.uk%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fcache%2F1%2Fimage%2F920x%2F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%2F7%2F0%2F701927_xl.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.axminster.co.uk%2Fveritas-router-plane-701927&docid=lAY4GM0vyB-oLM&tbnid=m8nEiOC5N7eJTM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwiaif26vOjgAhXpz4UKHVGOBfUQMwiPASgNMA0..i&w=920&h=920&safe=strict&bih=881&biw=1280&q=hand%20router&ved=0ahUKEwiaif26vOjgAhXpz4UKHVGOBfUQMwiPASgNMA0&iact=mrc&uact=8 I hope this helps.
I'm gonna be honest and say you have to be very good with your router control to do this. Balancing that router is not easy. If I did this every 3rd time I'd screw it up
I would agree, but as with many things practice makes perfect. One of the reasons for using a lighter router allows for easier movement, but it may not be that stable. 35mm thick doors are tricky, 45mm fire door edges are definitely easier tho.
@@jockey1304Hi Paul, I've found that the biggest problem for me when using my router for things like this, is it tends to travel further along than I want it to, and I end up with a wider rebate than I'd intended. Maybe some sort of end stop would work to stop it moving further to the side? Even just a quick-release clamp on the door...
Your tip on how to set the depth of cut by slipping the hinge between the depth stop and the depth adjuster was brilliant. Thank you for that. The rest of the video was clear, concise and easy to follow.. Top marks.
Yeah, I thought so too!
Yes thats a right trick!
Old trick but always good to teach the new carpenters
Thank you, you saved me. Got the same router and tried to use it for the hinges but had no idea how to use it, and that piece of timber on the fence is brilliant. I will try again now. Thank you again.
You could title this How to hinge a slab door in six minutes, I believe the term "Spot On" applies here. The tip about setting the depth is gold! Thanks for letting us look over your shoulders!
Nice video. I have a router but seldom use it. After watching this I think I should practice. Thanks for sharing.
That’s a very nice chrome hinge, here in America, the hinges are much bigger. Bigger is better! 🇺🇸
Mate, I wish I could give you a pat on your back! I've got 8 fire doors to hang, 3 hinges on each, not done much carpentry in the 16yrs since my apprenticeship, so just spent about 2hrs looking at vids on homemade hinge jigs, then this pops up, the simplicity is it's genius! And the trick for setting the depth, magnificent! Thanks again chap!
Glad to help. Small routers are great for this. Been doing hinges this way for few years now. You can also do the hinges on the door lining but only if the door stop is removed. Hope the doors go well.
@@jockey1304 That reply answered the question I was about to ask.
Thanks Paul.
@@jockey1304 They didn't! Someone else had done the door linings, they were all out, one was so bad that when I put my 6ft level upright against it, it touched the lining at the bottom and I could get my hand behind it at the top, no joke! Consequently it ended up taking an age to complete them.
That's a good video I'm going to try that this week. Thanks
So fast and so easy.....more grace bro...
brilliant exposer to hinge cutting
Brilliant very safety conscious.
Well done. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for video Paul.Very helpfull.
Helpful video mate, cheers!
Thanks. This video has helped me big time! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thanks for this
Very helpful
Nice tutorial - cheers!
Depth stop trick. Awesome :)
Super awesome. Thank you.
Lovely and neat
No jig needed. Excellent.
very helpful, thanks
Super. Its perfect working.
Why does he not make a jig to recess the hinges.
Nice video thank you
Love it good man
Perfect 🏆
good vid
Top bloke
Great vid.
Try out another idea:
Position the hinge where it's suppose to sit on the door.
Get a sharp Stanley knife.
Score around the hinge.
Palm router out the depth of hinge required.
No chisels needed.
I've done many times, hell of a lot quicker.
It might work for you, it might not.
I'd say have a go on a block of wood beforehand.
A presume you would need a small router bit to get into the corner of the recess. 3mm ? I think a steady hand is needed to keep to the line.
@@jockey1304 No corner bit, just knife it out. Yes, steady hand is important.
Good video. Ill give it a crack !
Don't say that word! :-))
Clever to use the actual hinge to set the depth stop!
Thanks Paul. I need to fit offset hinges for my Mum in a wheel chair, but finding it hard to find them in UK. Any advice ?
Search for Triple knuckle projection butt hinge or Swing Clear Cranked hinge. Hafele are one of the many available brands.
very lucky students
It's ok to butt your hinge tight up to the door when marking? I usually keep the slight gap on it to prevent bounce back or am I mistaken.
No issue, you can leave a little gap if that suits you. As long as the offset is the same on the door and lining. I have always set mine to the door edge. Just what I was taught when I was 16.
Is there a manual router out there?
There are some hand routers you can use, follow the link below to see what they look like. They are ok to use but need constant adjustment to get to the correct depth. Not that hinge recesses are very deep. www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fcdn.axminster.co.uk%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct%2Fcache%2F1%2Fimage%2F920x%2F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%2F7%2F0%2F701927_xl.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.axminster.co.uk%2Fveritas-router-plane-701927&docid=lAY4GM0vyB-oLM&tbnid=m8nEiOC5N7eJTM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwiaif26vOjgAhXpz4UKHVGOBfUQMwiPASgNMA0..i&w=920&h=920&safe=strict&bih=881&biw=1280&q=hand%20router&ved=0ahUKEwiaif26vOjgAhXpz4UKHVGOBfUQMwiPASgNMA0&iact=mrc&uact=8
I hope this helps.
Yeah good video .....knocks hammer and chisel into a cocked hat.
For me anyway.
(subbed)
get yourself a little palm router easy.
I'm gonna be honest and say you have to be very good with your router control to do this. Balancing that router is not easy. If I did this every 3rd time I'd screw it up
I would agree, but as with many things practice makes perfect. One of the reasons for using a lighter router allows for easier movement, but it may not be that stable. 35mm thick doors are tricky, 45mm fire door edges are definitely easier tho.
Better with a palm router easier to hold and steady
True blue Bears Got an example or video to clarify that?
I prefer using a gasoline powered router.
diesel man myself
Creepy thumb nail but otherwise a nice video - cheers!
Ah, ok, I was wondering what you do about the rounded edges- just finish it off with a chisel.
Hi Victor, I hope it helps. Have fun! Just keep pressure on the base of the router to stop it wobbling.
@@jockey1304Hi Paul, I've found that the biggest problem for me when using my router for things like this, is it tends to travel further along than I want it to, and I end up with a wider rebate than I'd intended. Maybe some sort of end stop would work to stop it moving further to the side? Even just a quick-release clamp on the door...
@@victor9501 Yep. That would work. I try and stay at least 3-4 mm from the end mark and the chisel can easily tske out the last of the recess
@@jockey1304 Yeah, I try to as well, but sometimes it just grabs into the wood :-(
I did it with Woodglut.
Crossheads on a door hinge!!!!!! WTF!!!! My grandad would be turning in his grave!!!!
what's a Crosshead?
He must be spinning then. All modern hinges have cross headed screws:)