I'm not sure its really from the auctions. The papers they had could just have been printed out. If i had an auction car for a year i would have at least got the title, you don't need to reg a car to title it. So im also glad you didn't buyer be aware. Hope you get a good one dood, our auto is gonna take a lot of work. but there is no other car like this imo, i know other mid ships exist but yah... thanks for checking it out and good luck on the hunt.
I remember these when they were new, a house nearby had brand new matching his and her ones, I was in envy as a teenager. Most of these have long since rotted away in the wet and salty roads here in the UK. What's the plan with the car?
dood im envious now! what a life QQ Its a shame... That is why i went for the auto, AW11s never really come up for sale around here. If i wanted i could have gotten a more complete one.. but its ok im extremely happy with this one. I prefer the sun roof over the T and it'll be a lot of work, and experience! I want to build a reliable daily, and something to carve the canyons with. Thanks for the comment!
Yeah.... 19 year owner of an AW11. I am still obsessive about AW11s. It isn't 'forage' - it is 4 A G E. Each character is pronounced separately. 4A is the block (4th gen A series block) GE (sport head with a wide angle valves, fuel injection). The dumbfucks that say '4AG' are describing an engine that does not exist - the lack of the 'E' at the end means no fuel injection, which was never made. Equally the dumbfucks that say '4A' are denoting a block with no head. As per which 4AGE you have, on the exhaust side (nearest the cabin) you'll need to count the number of vertical ribs. 3 rib = earlier model 4AGE (lighter weight internals, smaller rods ends, etc) and 7 rib = later model 4AGE (heavier internals, etc). The 3 rib is commonly called the 'blue top' (denoted by the blue painted cam covers), whereas the 7 rib is commonly called the 'red top' (denoted by the red painted cam covers). But, the cam covers can be swapped or re-painted, so those are NOT good visual cues. The 3 rib setup tends to rev up quicker, but have specific weak points (smaller crank, small & large end rod bearings, non-floating wrist pins). The 7 rib does not rev as quickly, but is stronger overall (they have fully floating wrist pins too). This does not count the 4AGZE (Supercharged) version of this engine, as it has items that are unique to it. The front passenger side tire ramming into the body is... all bad. The strut rod (lateral rod) is not secured. That goes from the front control arm to the chassis. That is literally 4 nuts and a few washers. It is clear that the rear wing was removed. The timing is very much off. There red ignition wires, from memory (I could be wrong), are Toyota OEM wires. They're the best you can get (the blue NGK wires are shit). Make sure you use the OEM Denso spark plugs, as the NGK plugs are not worth 2 cents or 2 drops of piss. Anywho... Ask any question you want. I'll give you as much detail as I can. You might be able to find my posts on Mr2oc under my name screen name. Just to be aware, I am more than just mildly opinionated - I'm an old man and have no fucks left to give - and I openly mocked SW20 turbo owners on canyon drives for being too slow, because they were, and I proved it many times.
Not12listen! Hey buddy! I'm so happy to be apart of the AW11 sick'os! Thanks for the detailed information. Believe it or not i did know some of that about the 4 A G E stuff. I just think that 'forage' is cool to say, but if it upsets the community i will be more proper about it. From my understanding the 4A block is the same from 4AFE and 4AGE the head being difference, as well as the internals for the F, and for the supercharger the forms say the internals are the same except the pistons have lower compression and a high heat coating. Ill check into the ribs, Is it also the case that the 87 can have the 7 rib but the lighter internals? Its missing the strut rod part I was able to get it from an auction sight, Ill double check all bolts when we install the rod and bushings. For sure it is def missing a tone of stuff the black one would have been a better deal, but I wanted to do a MT swap go find a C50 or another C transmission at a junkyard and do that whole, will be a lot of fun imo, and its a good platform to just build from and learn everything about aw11s. For most people buying one like this is not a good idea. I appreciate you a tone giving us this information. I'm all for the old man opinions, anyone that is slaying on the canyons is my kinda person
@@nickn7939 They have a very short lifespan within their optimal range. I tried every NGK plug from their cheapest to their most expensive. After 2500 miles the fuel economy dropped, acceleration was slower, and the throttle was less responsive. After dropping $12 per plug on their most expensive (Iridium IX), I 'fuck this' and bought a set of Denso plugs from the Toyota dealership - they were $8 per plug. I ran those plugs for over 12,000 miles with no issues that the NGKs had. Later on I bought a 2006 WRX, and NGK Iridium IX were the factory plug. Same shit. I swapped over to Denso Iridium TT plugs, and they've been better in every way - no misfires, improved fuel economy, far better throttle response - and they've been in my WRX for over 10,000 miles. I did verify that every plug (NGK and Denso) were gapped properly prior to installation. Also, Denso used to be internal/owned by Toyota. Toyota owns 25% of Denso to this day. That is to say, Denso is a Japanese manufacturer, just like NGK.
Cool find. That thing's gonna take a decent amount of work.. It was concerning the front tire didn't move at first lol
Haha! Thank you. For sure but i feel like It'll be worth it. Im excited to touch every part and learn and break stuff :D
I was thinking of buying the red one but I decided not to because i was sure it was an auction flip. Guess I was right.
I'm not sure its really from the auctions. The papers they had could just have been printed out. If i had an auction car for a year i would have at least got the title, you don't need to reg a car to title it. So im also glad you didn't buyer be aware. Hope you get a good one dood, our auto is gonna take a lot of work. but there is no other car like this imo, i know other mid ships exist but yah... thanks for checking it out and good luck on the hunt.
I remember these when they were new, a house nearby had brand new matching his and her ones, I was in envy as a teenager. Most of these have long since rotted away in the wet and salty roads here in the UK. What's the plan with the car?
dood im envious now! what a life QQ
Its a shame... That is why i went for the auto, AW11s never really come up for sale around here.
If i wanted i could have gotten a more complete one.. but its ok im extremely happy with this one. I prefer the sun roof over the T and it'll be a lot of work, and experience! I want to build a reliable daily, and something to carve the canyons with.
Thanks for the comment!
Yeah.... 19 year owner of an AW11. I am still obsessive about AW11s.
It isn't 'forage' - it is 4 A G E. Each character is pronounced separately. 4A is the block (4th gen A series block) GE (sport head with a wide angle valves, fuel injection).
The dumbfucks that say '4AG' are describing an engine that does not exist - the lack of the 'E' at the end means no fuel injection, which was never made. Equally the dumbfucks that say '4A' are denoting a block with no head.
As per which 4AGE you have, on the exhaust side (nearest the cabin) you'll need to count the number of vertical ribs. 3 rib = earlier model 4AGE (lighter weight internals, smaller rods ends, etc) and 7 rib = later model 4AGE (heavier internals, etc). The 3 rib is commonly called the 'blue top' (denoted by the blue painted cam covers), whereas the 7 rib is commonly called the 'red top' (denoted by the red painted cam covers). But, the cam covers can be swapped or re-painted, so those are NOT good visual cues.
The 3 rib setup tends to rev up quicker, but have specific weak points (smaller crank, small & large end rod bearings, non-floating wrist pins). The 7 rib does not rev as quickly, but is stronger overall (they have fully floating wrist pins too). This does not count the 4AGZE (Supercharged) version of this engine, as it has items that are unique to it.
The front passenger side tire ramming into the body is... all bad. The strut rod (lateral rod) is not secured. That goes from the front control arm to the chassis. That is literally 4 nuts and a few washers.
It is clear that the rear wing was removed.
The timing is very much off.
There red ignition wires, from memory (I could be wrong), are Toyota OEM wires. They're the best you can get (the blue NGK wires are shit). Make sure you use the OEM Denso spark plugs, as the NGK plugs are not worth 2 cents or 2 drops of piss.
Anywho...
Ask any question you want. I'll give you as much detail as I can.
You might be able to find my posts on Mr2oc under my name screen name. Just to be aware, I am more than just mildly opinionated - I'm an old man and have no fucks left to give - and I openly mocked SW20 turbo owners on canyon drives for being too slow, because they were, and I proved it many times.
why do ngk plugs suck?
Not12listen! Hey buddy! I'm so happy to be apart of the AW11 sick'os!
Thanks for the detailed information. Believe it or not i did know some of that about the 4 A G E stuff. I just think that 'forage' is cool to say, but if it upsets the community i will be more proper about it.
From my understanding the 4A block is the same from 4AFE and 4AGE the head being difference, as well as the internals for the F, and for the supercharger the forms say the internals are the same except the pistons have lower compression and a high heat coating.
Ill check into the ribs, Is it also the case that the 87 can have the 7 rib but the lighter internals?
Its missing the strut rod part I was able to get it from an auction sight, Ill double check all bolts when we install the rod and bushings.
For sure it is def missing a tone of stuff the black one would have been a better deal, but I wanted to do a MT swap go find a C50 or another C transmission at a junkyard and do that whole, will be a lot of fun imo, and its a good platform to just build from and learn everything about aw11s. For most people buying one like this is not a good idea.
I appreciate you a tone giving us this information. I'm all for the old man opinions, anyone that is slaying on the canyons is my kinda person
Yah why are ngk bad for the 4a-ge?
@@nickn7939 They have a very short lifespan within their optimal range.
I tried every NGK plug from their cheapest to their most expensive. After 2500 miles the fuel economy dropped, acceleration was slower, and the throttle was less responsive.
After dropping $12 per plug on their most expensive (Iridium IX), I 'fuck this' and bought a set of Denso plugs from the Toyota dealership - they were $8 per plug.
I ran those plugs for over 12,000 miles with no issues that the NGKs had.
Later on I bought a 2006 WRX, and NGK Iridium IX were the factory plug. Same shit. I swapped over to Denso Iridium TT plugs, and they've been better in every way - no misfires, improved fuel economy, far better throttle response - and they've been in my WRX for over 10,000 miles.
I did verify that every plug (NGK and Denso) were gapped properly prior to installation.
Also, Denso used to be internal/owned by Toyota. Toyota owns 25% of Denso to this day. That is to say, Denso is a Japanese manufacturer, just like NGK.
@@aftereartharcade NGKs are shit for any vehicle in my experience. You can see my reply on this thread that has more detail.