How To Patch And Repair A Hole In A Hollow Core Door Like A Pro! EASY DIY Tutorial For Beginners!
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- ITEMS I USED:
BONDO All-Purpose Putty With Hardener - amzn.to/3M4mIDi
BONDO Spreader Tool - amzn.to/3M4f77E
Wood Shims - amzn.to/3t862Cm
Super Glue With Activator Spray - amzn.to/3voKAvL
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10-in-1 Painters Multipurpose Scraper Tool - amzn.to/3JVeNGv
Retractable Utility Knife - amzn.to/3M24l1X
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Sanding Kit Complete - amzn.to/3JVzRwJ
GREAT STUFF Spray Foam Gaps / Crack Filler - amzn.to/36B6C3L
GREAT STUFF Window & Door - amzn.to/355dZAm
5/32” Drill Bit (impact drill) - amzn.to/3BUNWYD
5/32” Drill Bit - amzn.to/3taN2TH
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On This episode I'll be showing you How To Patch And Repair A Hole In A Hollow Core Door Like A Pro! EASY DIY Tutorial For Beginners!
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#Door #DoorJamb #Doorrepair - Навчання та стиль
Good job! Your method of using the wood shims, the expanding foam and the Bondo made the hole repair more structurally sound.
Thank you so much! I’m glad you like my method 🙏🏽😊
but you can't get the bondo right without sanding and you can't sand until it hardens. if you do the grains first you will end up sanding alot of your detail out
Just replace the door, dumb dumbs. Your inexperience is showing and you are over charging your client
@Jack Holloway thanks! I do alot of specialized repairs in this area. I make good money and have a high demand. I have found that doing the fine details does require an ability to sculpt. very few times have I cut mt details beforehand. if I need a very deep impression I will carve it with a razor just before it hardens into a pain in the ass.
@ the doors i replace are well worth the repairs lol
A simple way to replicate the wood grain is to scribe in the grain lines with a toothpick while the bondo is still soft. It takes some finesse, but is much easier than trying to do it after it hardens.
Thank you for sharing your advice! 🙏🏽👍🏽
… multi tool when dry!
I had to fix a door that had been mauled with an angle grinder by the painters that worked for the HOA. The wood-grain wasn't much of an issue, since the paint was thick enough to hide it, but the fluting where the wood met the glass was all messed up. I used construction adhesive and re-created the lines with a hack saw blade as the cement was hardening. Still looks passable today.
Good point I was looking at making a mold to copy it to lay over the patch as it sets up then taking it off but a scratch tool works also probly more control.
Just use a file. If you have an assortment you’ll be abled to match the curves easy once dry.
I’m surprised these types of doors can be repaired so beautifully. Excellent work!
I have an easier fix. Fill the hole with expandable foam and let dry over night. The next day. trim the foam back to the thickness of the door outer shell. Fill the space with wood filler. While the wood filler is still wet, take an old brush and run it across the wood filler in the direction of the grain in the door surface. Once the filler has fully dried, sand lightly, prime and paint.
Good job. I have 30 rentals and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Charles
PS Both the video and a reply were good.
@@camiechappell1684how would you recommend me going about attaining rental properties to eventually this being my main source of income over time. Thank you and I appreciate any information.
Thank you Brotha For a simple fix 🙏
Any idea what paint matches ? That's my concern my door is from home Depot
Instead of epoxy putty, I use Durabond 90 which is a drywall compound with a hardener in it that is typically used for corners on drywall because it is a lot harder and more durable than regular drywall compound, but is still sand-able. I put the stuff on and let it dry a bit, then use a notched trowel with small teeth and drag across the surface of the putty to blend in the wood-like texture of the door. Works like a charm. Once sanded down a bit, primed and painted, you'll never never know there was ever a hole there.
You should do a video on this! I would love to check it out
Did you still use the foam and wood support inserts or not needed with this method ?
I would use crumpled up newspaper as a backer, and fill the holes with 20 minute mud. The wood grain is easy to do in the semi-cured or cured mud. Shape, sand and paint.
All of this CA adhesive, wood shims, expanding foam, Bondo and paint will cost more than a new hollow core door. The 20 minute mud is cheap and can be used to patch walls etc.
Does Durabond last and not crack? This is what I want to use
@@davidparker9676does Durabond last and not crack?
I was taught to use thick cardboard for this, to make a hole in it and add a string with a (wooden) match stick (minus the sulfur/red) fastened to it on the backside, so it can work as a stopper. This string can be pulled on without coming off before you cut the it (then the match falls down into the door and stays there). Glue was applied to the cardboard, which was fed into the hole, so it would be glued to the backside around the hole by pulling on the string for a little while. When the glue had dried, spackel («plaster»?) was used to fill in the hole itself (since the cardboard works as a support or scaffolding) and to provide the finish, then sanded before the door was painted. On a door like in this video, if you want a close to perfect result, you can use different tools to draw in (or more correct; cut out ) the texture that is missing, by filling in the lines that are missing. This shouldn’t be very difficult if you used ordinary spackel.
I foamed and bondoed mine. Good job. I used paint brush to brush wood grain into bondo. Sanded it a bit. Painted all good.
This was really useful, specially if it's a flat surface. Appreciate the step by step and explaining. Good one!
Nice. I would lay the door down when putting in the spray foam. That way gravity does not pull the foam away from the area you want to build it up in.
That’s really clever! Thank you for sharing your technique! I will save that in the future! 🙏🏽😊
I would have laid that door down in a nice dumpster.
@@scotts4125 Then you're going to have to go to the bathroom with no door.
@@drmodestoesq I suppose it would be easier to ask you for a roll of TP so not all bad!
At 18:50 I use old gift cards or credit cards for spreading bondo, you can even cut a credit card it define small areas. Much easier than sanding
Very interesting, I use HardRock, when I do this. It cost less and is easier to work with, but it is always good to have several options and I thank you for that. God Bless!
Thank you! I’ll need to try that product!
@@FixThisHouse It's incredible, I use it to repair Facia instead of replacing them. God Bless!
Did you mean Durham’s RockHard? Not HardRock as in the Café and music? 🤗
@@lottatroublemaker6130 Durham's, God Bless!
Tha k you so much! I've been trying to figure out how to repair two hollow doors for years!! This was so easy 👏
I’m glad I could be of help! Thank you for the love and support!🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Subscribed!! 🤩
You did a good job ,thank you for the tutorial ,God Bless You
Thank you so much!🙏🏽😊 Have a great weekend!
Dude one of the best videos of how to, thank you for helping me! You earned a new subscriber
That's a solid job man, awesome!!
Thanks for your time and skills
He better had solid doors😏
@@jasmijnariel Him good job do solid. he better better, he better better, swing.
Nice work! This little demo will stay with me forever, surely I'll use this somewhere somehow some way
Thank you for doing the hard corners part! Thats what i have I repair this weekend.
I imagine a drimmel tool could be used to match up the door grooves if you wanted to,but over all ,great job! thanks for the great info.
Looks good. In fact, I think that looks good enough that you could have saved the door; the only real reason to buy a new one was the asymmetrical trimming on the hinge side, and even that could be fixed by shimming the hinge side and trimming the doorknob side. In fact, if you haven't already, you might want to do a video or two on trimming doors that are a little too big. I've made use of a number of doors that way, and it they last forever as long as you make sure there is enough wood around the edges. Stile&rail doors are a little harder, but with a few well placed metal fasteners, they can also be trimmed without leaving them in pieces.
AND ANOTHER 1
YOU ARE A GREAT INSTRUCTOR. YOU MAKE EVERYTHING SO SIMPLE AND EASY 4 US ALL. 🤪👍
Wingsandbeaks here. Thanks for sharing. Tons of information! New subscriber.
Man thank you, on God I was about to go buy two whole other 🚪's. 👍🏽👍🏽💯
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Dude! Awesome job! Impressed with how you fixed the uneven part!
Now I know how to fix the bedroom door some guy punched a whole into (not me, of course)
Thanks
Great for rental property and for your own doors if you want to spend the time for the details with a dermal tool. Great video
Thank you so much for the support! 🙏🏽😊
What kind of dermal tool can be used for details?
@@lottatroublemaker6130 Dremel
Great job explaining. I was lazy and I made the mistake of putting a top layer of spackle on Bondo. That was a bad idea as the spackle chips off. Now I know how to do it, right
my dog cracked my bedroom door in 2 places at the bottom along the edge of that detail. this was super helpful. THANKS!
Fantastic job. Im going to fix a couple holes in my fiberglass shower doing this
Thank you so much for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Artistically achieved a nice sound job. Nicely done .
Thank you so much!!
A dremel works well if you want to carve out the detail. Nice idea to foam behind the shims.
Thank you so much for the feedback and advice! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Great job! I have to fix mine. My son damage his closet door the same way. Thank you very much for the instruction!
Nice! Knowing the products is the biggest help.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Great work for rentals
Save wherever you can !!!!
Thank you my friend 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Ramen noodles and crazy glue is my go to
😂! I know that trick haha
Thank you for the tip! For the profiles I’ll use dremell tool to shape it.
I had a very similar damaged spot on a door like your second repair. I just wood glued it scuffed it up and used spackling to finish the repair. Spackling is a lot cheaper than Bondo and vastly easier to sand and it's fairly easy to rough in the grain pattern. After repainting it was hardly noticeable.
I like spackling with a thin layer of drywall mud on the surface. The later is the most easily carved substance I can name.
What's spackling? I'm in Australia tho? Probably a different term.
@@dragan3290 It's a light weight premixed plaster material. Small hole wall patching material.
@@justaman5490 ah yeah! InAustralia we call that spak filla. Cheers. 👍👍👍
I repaired several injuries to a door with first sawdust and wood glue, then spackel. That was almost 20 years ago and it still holds fine. No trace of the awful damage a nutty carpenter did to that poor door! SMH just thinking of that carpenter! He taught me one thing: Always ask for references!!! ☺️
I like the way you went in and out when you were drilling the hole.
👍🏽😉
That's what she said.
Another awesome video brother stay strong and God bless
Thank you so much Robin! Take best of care my friend! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
0:00 Learning objective
00:05 Channel Introduction
0:12 Welcome & subscribe
0:22 Two problems with door: flat surface and profile damage
2:01 Clean out immediate area with razor
2:25 Make sure there are no interferences around area behind door
2:33 Don't use just spray foam
3:33 Get shims to serve as backing
3:51 Mark one inch on each side of each shim
4:21 Cut the rest of the area of the shim off
4:47 Test fit your shims to make sure they cover the area
4:54 Put one drywall screw through shim one inch away from edge
5:54 Add shims one at a time
6:00 Add "Thick" 2P 10 adhesive to 1) top AND 2) bottom of each shim
6:30 1) Carefully slide each shim into the hole and 2) push & pull the shim onto the door so that it sticks and 3) let each shim dry. (You can leave the screw there while it dries. Also remove any cardboard behind the shim so that it doesn't get in the way.)
7:28 Plan ahead if using multiple shims (put third [top] shim in first and then get a piece of tape to hold it so you can put your second shim in the middle.
8:01 Add adhesive and attach second piece.
8:07 Activator accelerates adhesive process
8:52 Remove tape
9:04 Add glue to third shim
9:18 Spray activator on top and bottom of third shim
9:35 Push against door to ensure third shim sticks
9:40 Importance of having a solid backing
9:48 Carefully remove screws from each shim
10:09 Do not recommend just spraying spray foam without shim method
11:25 Drill through the shim (right through the middle) and apply spray foam (5/32 drill bit)
11:41 Drill second area at top to prevent air pockets
11:48 Importance of drilling more than once
12:06 Going to use "Great Stuff Wind& Door" spray foam
12:15 Use gloves: Shake up spray foam, test spray the spray foam to make sure it works, and then and carefully use smart dispenser to inect through middle hole "for a few seconds." It is a good sign when the spray starts to ooze a little bit out the hole. Let it set for a little bit. (Purpose: Provides stability and support for the back.)
13:40 How to fix other area
14:10 Put screw through door
14:35 Put shim on remaining space
14:51 Apply glue and spray
14:57 Slide shim in
15:05 Pull shim back and forward
15:09 Drill through shim with 5/32 & put another hole in salvageable door part
15:28 Spray both areas with spray foam
15:32 Evidence of enough spray foam is that it is oozing out
15:45 Inject spray foam into second hole
16:06 Add a little spray foam to surface area
16:17 Take out shim screw
16:26 Leave other screw until remaining spray foam dries
16:31 Leave everything out for eight hours so that it can dry
17:32 Take out screw
17:35 Trim spray foam below door profile
17:42 Use bondo all-purpose putty (and benefits)
18:09 Use spreader
18:14 Use gloves and respirator
18:25 Open up Bondo, which comes with cream hardener
18:40 Open up Bondo with 10-in-1 tool
18:42 Open up spreader
18:53 Use cardboard for mixing everything up
18:56 Open hardener (came with Bondo) and mix with Bondo
19:02 Apply mix of hardener and bondo and fill in the gaps on door with spreader (don't push down hard) [NOTE: You have 15 minutes of working time with bondo mix before it hardens!]
19:25 Use 10-in-1 tool to fill in other hole
19:48 Use 80 or 120 grit sandpaper and sanding block to make the door flush
20:09 For harder part, use sanding paper and block to shape area
20:24 Fill area with hand: if smoothe, it is ready for paint; if you feel a bump or roughness, it is not.
20:36 Flat areas are easiest to smoothe out; the corner areas are the hardest.
22:12 Wipe off area with towel
22:33 Prime and then paint
22:41 Paint
23:06 Commentary on outcome
Wow! Thank you so much for taking your time to so this time stamp! 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse welcome! I was making notes for myself and thought I’d share with everyone else 😇
Over the top Time Stamp. That effort I believe is an asset to one's channel effort and TYVM.
@@kevingoldsmith91 nice going kev🤯
Whoa you go Spaulding, I bet your pencil pocket protector is full.
Thank you ! You are a very good teacher and I will definitely be using this method !!
We line hole with crumpled newspaper and then spray great stuff then after it hardens we trim slightly below the service then fill it with minwax 2 part epoxy two coats. Then scribble grain in the epoxy. It hardens in about 5 minutes. Never had a problem with this type of repair.
Thank you for sharing!
This is a very difficult project to begin with and you did a great job. My opinion- Very helpful. Thanks 🙏👍
Hard rock is certainly overlooked quite a lot. It works extremely well
I will have to try that product, thank you for suggesting! 👍🏽😊
Excellent repair ideas! Thank you for showing us!
Thank you for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊
Hey man, great video! Thanks for taking the time and sharing
Thank you so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊
Looks great Brother! Honestly I would have replaced the door slab myself as well.
Thank you so much! 👍🏽😊
I have to say Great Job!
Thank you so much! 😊🙏🏽
My remodeling co does the shims only hit glue- but we do bondo, and take a cut template of the door and smooth it out and impress the grain look it into the bondo-
Nice! Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏽😊
I like to cut fine wood grain groves when the bondo is semi hard. A multi tasker can carve the molding profile on the 45 but it is tricky. The wood grain is stamped at the factory so if you have a junk door you can cut out the same area from the junker and match them super good with the junk door piece super glued in place of the bondo.
After material and labor cost, its cheaper to just replace that door. 😂. Great job on the repair!
free doors on facebook marketplace lol
This is outstanding work. I wish my doors were like this, but unfortunately they're those old school ones that are flat with a woodgrain, stained finish so I can't use these techniques without having to paint to hide the patches. The one thing I don't understand is why did you not cut out a square to make things a bit easier for you? I'm honestly curious to know. Is it more difficult? The reason I ask because I would have treated this like a drywall patch. Cut the damaged area into a square, use paint sticks for backers, CA glue to seal the hole, then wood putty because I didn't even think of Bondo, or Durabond, lol. I also would not have thought to use the spray foam.
I apologize if I sound like a snarky idiot. I assure you I'm not being snarky, but I AM an idiot, lol. Thank you for the great video, and thank you comment section for additional tips!
Great Job! Alway before a paintjob i find it so hard to imagine how good it will look.
Because it always looks botched when its ready for paint. Doesnt matter if its walls, ceilings or doors.
Details on the mirror surface is not too hard to do. Just wait till the putty is like clay and run a weat pencil over it making the lines.
Fantastic. This was very informative. Thank you
Thank you so much for painting this door JUST FOR ME
Anytime my friend! 🙏🏽😊
Have a all flat door without the panels, so I’m gonna try this method! Just need it to be non noticeable before I move out!
For the price of the materials and time could of bought a new one, but hey it is what it is props for putting it out there!
That is true, but not all hollow cores are the same price. Some people own Masonite brand hollow cores that are $200+. 👍🏽😊
Perfect demo
It took me too long to find this - the hole in my door is larger, but this is exactly what I need.
Great repair👍
Thank you Shania! 🙏🏽😊
Wow !just Perfect you done a great job sir ! Very appreciate for your sharing!!!
You done a great job on that door.Nice video,
U GAVE US HOPE TO REPAIR THE DOOR .
EXCELLENT
Fantastic job!!!!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Excellent video. Thanks Bro!
Thank you 🙏🏽!
GREAT STUFF, I LOVE YOU POSTS!!
Zero need to spray foam. Potentially create a bulge in the door with the expanding foam
Thank you for teaching me that. I'm sure that I can tackle that now.
Outstanding job!!! Thank you for sharing!!!!
Thank you so much for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Spray foam is not squishy. It’s actually surprisingly solid. They use it to raise up concrete. Maybe cause you used the window door stuff. Just used the regular great stuff.
Thank you for your input. I’ve used all of them as for Great STUFF, they are all squishy. I think what they use for concrete is polyurethane foam.👍🏽😊
Great instructional video. Thank you for sharing!!!!
This video helped me. Thank you
Spend 75 bucks and a couple hours to do this, or spend 60 bucks and buy another hollow door hang in bout 5 minutes. No sanding and no blemishes. That is how a professional does it
I agree sir. Nothing wrong with options. Plus some people own really expensive hollow core doors that cost over $200+ like Masonite brand
@@FixThisHouse if I pay 200 dollars for a hollow I am not putting a bond patch in. That's like putting duct tape on new Cadillac. It will work but it's ugly to look at.
Thanks for the tips. Wondered why you didn't just put the spray foam in first and then before cured, put the wood shims (I guess we've all used paint sticks too) in with a longer curing wood glue so it doesn't firm up too fast and let the expansion of the spray foam push the wood against the back side of the hollow core door? -- you mentioned that you waited several hours for the foam to set up any way -- pretty much ends up the same wait time in the end?
short-strand fiberglass Bondo (has a green label) works nicely for the same. I added 1-1/2 inches (square cut wood from a 2x4 trimmed to 1-3/8 deep) to the bottom of a hollow core door. there are opposing vertical/horizonal patterns when you span the bottom of a door... used a thin putty knife to approximate pattern-- light sanding left valleys approximately the same as the pattern.
I only mention the stuff with fiberglass as it sanded super smooth (all bondo does) but I was hoping it added some flex since hollow cores are flimsy.
Any recommendations on a contour sanding kit which would have helped on the grooves if you'd wanted to get a finer touch on those grooves in the panel?
Can you leave the debris inside to help add to the filler? Rather than taking it out.
That's a great job done mate
Very good 👍🏼
Thank you Wendy! 🙏🏽😊
Great job! Thank you..
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Hey, I couldn't find the particular glue and activator that you used. Is there any other glue that you would recomend for the job? Thank you..
Very good job
Looks great
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Big Help especially with the hard part
Thank you so much! Im glad I could be of help! Have a great weekend! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
First class video great information 👍
Thank you so much! Have a great weekend! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Nice repair well done 👍☝️🌟
If you want to replicate the graining of the original finish use a clean yard broom or similar in the semi-dry primer/undercoat surface to wipe the surface, a single stroke should do it. Let it dry and then paint over with the finishing coats.
Great tip thanks for sharing
Thank you for the support! 🙏🏽😊
good job
Thank you 🙏🏽!
I found this video very helpful.
👍 nice job!
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you. I had to fix a door like this, it went pretty well. But wish I would have known about this. Thank you. Very nice 👍
Excellent way to reuse and not just dump the door
Thanks brother..
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
That spray foam is good stuff.
Yes good stuff Great STUFF 😉
Dope job🙏🏾
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Thanks for the tip, very good job 👍🏻
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Fantastic job keep up the good work
Good job. I had to do that because I was getting my house ready to sell. I would have just bought a new door but with the supply chain, they were back ordered and did not know when they would be in stock. I already had all the stuff I needed just laying around the house, so why not just fix it.
Thank you so much for your support! 🙏🏽😊
I wish you well on your home my friend!
Saved me a lot of time.
Dry wall compound with a hole patch works just as good plus it drys white so a little sanding is all that's needed.
Or Durabond.
good will try
Before you paint it, apply a thin coat of drywall mud on the patch and drag a comb across it to recreate the woodgrain pattern.
You did an excellent job.
Great job.
Thank you 🙏🏽
Looks great to me. Good job
There are spray foams with a much harder finish product. Hilti foam will hold a construction screw. It gets very hard.