Unfortunately I haven't been able to take the kite out yet. I've messed up my shoulder and will be getting surgery in a couple weeks so no kiting for me for awhile. With such a small adjustment needed, I don't think there will be much improvement though.
@@thomaslindberg8250 Trim for full power and keep the bar fully in. The lines should all be equal. With a Soul and being a little more advanced you can have about 2-4cm shorter steering lines. This will make the kite backstall a little more but will speed up the turning speed a bit.
Hi Jason. I have a trim checker but cant find how the grey line and orange loop attach to the black movable line for A and Z . I understand while in tension you can let go the Z line and maintsins same length. Looking to exactly how grey attaches to black line to prevent slippage??? Tks
Not sure what you are asking. You don't attach the greyorange loop to anything, thats there to show you when you have the proper amount of tension(5kgs) on the lines. You attach your kite lines to the two black hoops. Once attached, pull them till the orange LCL is stick straight out(that indicates proper tension) and verify that the A and Z knots line up. Then check your mixer.
@@supericeman2222 your grey lines are unattached? They are the bungie lines that should already be connected to the black lines that tighten that allows that orange LCL to stick straight out when it's at 5kg
Hey Jason, thanks for posting this. How would I use the trim checker tool for a Sonic 2? Will it work for both the short mixer test as well as the long mixer test on that kite?
You would use it the same as in this video for the short mixer test. There are no markings on the Sonic2 for a long mixer test from FS but you could easily add marks similar to the Sonic3 to be able to do a long mixer test. My personal opinion is this would be worth it since the Sonics are much more sensitive to bridle changes.
When I do the long mixer I always hold A and Z together (on the same level with 5kg) and then adjust C first and then B. It is not about the length of A or Z it is about the relation to C and B. Just imagine your Kite-profile.
The first thing you do is line up A and Z to do the mixer test. If you think your Z has shrunk(which can be common with older kites), I would check the line measurements on Flysurfer's website and measure out the Z on it's own first and then add pigtails to return it to the correct length.
The beauty with the trim checker is that you may adjust both little attachement line together and catch then in relative position, so if A and Z cannot be equalized by moving laterally, just adjust the relative position of the 2 attachment lines of the trim checker of the necessary length, then A and Z will come to same length, to do the proper C then B check as usual. If you don’t use the trim checker but put screwdrivers through the metal rings into the ground, you just need to move one screwdriver back or front by some length to do the same…😎@@sanderpsychologie
Surely step 1 is to adjust the relative lengths of the connections on the "tool" end so that the kite end of A and Z align. Then you can proceed with the mixer test. It looks like you got lucky as A and Z were already the same length, but that is just because your mixer was not out by much; it would be helpful if you explain the adjustment at the tool end.
@@adventure-logs Hmmm - the short mixer test does not aim to equalise A and Z (in fact flysurfer don't give you an adjuster on Z like ozone do, so it is not even an option). If your A and Z ended up aligned then you just got lucky. Is it not the case that the tool allows you to adjust for the A-Z difference?
@@DaveSands I disagree. The short mixer test can quickly show you if A/Z do not match up(which is typical on a older foil, the Z line will shrink). While Flysurfer doesn't specifically have a way to extend Z back to A, there are a couple very easy ways to do so. If both sides of the kite have the same amount of difference between A/Z, it's easily corrected by trimming in slightly. If you have a kite where you mostly jump going one direction, then there maybe be a difference between the two sides. If you have a dedicated bar for that foil, then you can again easily adjust at the bar by extending the corresponding steering side. This is easily done by preforming the mixer test with the bar still attached. If you use the same bar for multiple kites then this won't work. In that case, you can use pigtails to extend the Z back to A. Don't get me started on Ozone bridles. First off you have to pay extra for an adjustable bridle. Also the lines are much thicker which are suppose to help reduce line shrinkage but in reality cause more drag instead. Lastly Ozone wants you to add knots to adjust it which in my opinion is a bad way to go. Knots weaken the line. Ozone is still behind the curve here and for the amount of money they charge, it shouldn't be that way. I won't get into the sewing problems, lack of airtightness, and drainage issues. They are starting to catch up though.
@@adventure-logs Im certainly not trying to argue about ozone (not a fan), just trying to clarify. If the tool has the ability to adjust the relative length of az connections then it can be used to do the regular mixer test itself. It is also useful to understand that lengthening z does not have the same effect as adjusting the relative length of the back and front lines. I only mention ozone because their mixer test instructions include the appropriate lengthening of z (=half the shortening of C I think). I am not commenting on price or quality of their mixer. You could at least consider the idea of skipping any pre adjustments and aligning a and z at kite, adjusting the tool connectors to equalises their length, and doing whichever mixer test you choose.
@@DaveSandsyes the tool is well made for that. The 2 attachment lines are just one line , so you may easily slide it to increase A or Z and there is a little piece turning around and maintaining your setting when made and under tension. So if you cannot line up A and Z together, just slide this adjustment line , check A and Z, then check C (and B) as usually. Another option is to use screwdrivers in the ground, and you need to adjust their distance to the kite and keep them at roughly 4“ in order to have another way to adjust by moving both laterally. The trim checker is far more easier to use!
My A and Z lines are not equal amd I don't see a way to adjust one of them? Also, which one should I make an adjustment to? Any advice would be appreciated. Lastly, do you compare both sides to make sure they are equal?
Typically it's the Z line that shrinks but you can go on the Flysurfer website and find the line plan that will tell you the proper lengths. Best way to see which line is off. If you have a dedicated bar for the kite you can adjust the difference at the bar. If both sides(left and right) and off equally, usually just adjusting the trim(by depowering slightly) will correct this. If one side is off more than the other but again dedicated bar, you can adjust this by adjusting the steering line. Otherwise adding pigtails is another way of getting A and Z realigned.
you dont have to adjust a and z. when you start the mixertest, put too screwdrivers into the ground. fix the mixer at the frontline to one screwdriver. fix the backlines mixer on the other screwdriver. walk left or right to bring a and z to the same lengh. when the same lenght is fond, you can now trim c and b. this tool is designed to replace the screwdrivers. you adjust a and z via this trim tool.
@@twhall64 I do a short mixer test first(knots) and if it's still not flying like it should, I'll then do the long mixer test(black marks close to the kite)
Yea same, i usually don't touch my foils till after a year of hard use. The trim checker tool makes it pretty easy to get it back to close to factory settings though.
Thank you Jason for that clear explanation. I hope you had a quick recovery after your shoulder operation!
Hey Jason, very helpful. Thanks a lot.
Thanks Jason, this is really helpful. I was wondering how to use this tool.
Hi. Thanks for making this video. Thumbs up and you explained the procedure perfectly. Regards.
Top quality video
Good work man!!! did you notice any improvements as to how kite flies!?
Unfortunately I haven't been able to take the kite out yet. I've messed up my shoulder and will be getting surgery in a couple weeks so no kiting for me for awhile. With such a small adjustment needed, I don't think there will be much improvement though.
@@adventure-logs Good luck man! I wish you a quicker recovery!
Great video. Not sure what the long grey line with the orange pigtail is for.
Can you show how you do this with your Flysurfer bar lines? I don’t think there are any knots in FS lines to shorten or lengthen….thank you!!!
Which bar? They are usually under the floaters.
@@adventure-logs I have a Flysurfer bar. I’ll look under floaters. Thank you!
@@adventure-logs if I test to see if all 4 lines are the same length do I power or depower the strap/cleat? Thank you.
@@thomaslindberg8250 Trim for full power and keep the bar fully in. The lines should all be equal. With a Soul and being a little more advanced you can have about 2-4cm shorter steering lines. This will make the kite backstall a little more but will speed up the turning speed a bit.
Hi Jason. I have a trim checker but cant find how the grey line and orange loop attach to the black movable line for A and Z . I understand while in tension you can let go the Z line and maintsins same length. Looking to exactly how grey attaches to black line to prevent slippage???
Tks
Not sure what you are asking. You don't attach the greyorange loop to anything, thats there to show you when you have the proper amount of tension(5kgs) on the lines. You attach your kite lines to the two black hoops. Once attached, pull them till the orange LCL is stick straight out(that indicates proper tension) and verify that the A and Z knots line up. Then check your mixer.
@adventure-logs ok where do i attach the grey line? Just a loop over two black lines?
@@supericeman2222 your grey lines are unattached? They are the bungie lines that should already be connected to the black lines that tighten that allows that orange LCL to stick straight out when it's at 5kg
Hey Jason, thanks for posting this. How would I use the trim checker tool for a Sonic 2? Will it work for both the short mixer test as well as the long mixer test on that kite?
You would use it the same as in this video for the short mixer test. There are no markings on the Sonic2 for a long mixer test from FS but you could easily add marks similar to the Sonic3 to be able to do a long mixer test. My personal opinion is this would be worth it since the Sonics are much more sensitive to bridle changes.
When I do the long mixer I always hold A and Z together (on the same level with 5kg) and then adjust C first and then B. It is not about the length of A or Z it is about the relation to C and B. Just imagine your Kite-profile.
Pen chemic ages the line faster according to climbing lines broken test.
Hi, How do you do if A and Z are not equal in long mixer test ?? thanks
The first thing you do is line up A and Z to do the mixer test. If you think your Z has shrunk(which can be common with older kites), I would check the line measurements on Flysurfer's website and measure out the Z on it's own first and then add pigtails to return it to the correct length.
@@adventure-logsand if z only shrunk like 2-3cm? Then just trim the bar? (Depower a bit)
The beauty with the trim checker is that you may adjust both little attachement line together and catch then in relative position, so if A and Z cannot be equalized by moving laterally, just adjust the relative position of the 2 attachment lines of the trim checker of the necessary length, then A and Z will come to same length, to do the proper C then B check as usual. If you don’t use the trim checker but put screwdrivers through the metal rings into the ground, you just need to move one screwdriver back or front by some length to do the same…😎@@sanderpsychologie
Surely step 1 is to adjust the relative lengths of the connections on the "tool" end so that the kite end of A and Z align. Then you can proceed with the mixer test. It looks like you got lucky as A and Z were already the same length, but that is just because your mixer was not out by much; it would be helpful if you explain the adjustment at the tool end.
This is why I did a quick short mixer check in the beginning, to make sure A and Z were equal. If not, I would have adjusted firstly.
@@adventure-logs Hmmm - the short mixer test does not aim to equalise A and Z (in fact flysurfer don't give you an adjuster on Z like ozone do, so it is not even an option). If your A and Z ended up aligned then you just got lucky. Is it not the case that the tool allows you to adjust for the A-Z difference?
@@DaveSands I disagree. The short mixer test can quickly show you if A/Z do not match up(which is typical on a older foil, the Z line will shrink). While Flysurfer doesn't specifically have a way to extend Z back to A, there are a couple very easy ways to do so. If both sides of the kite have the same amount of difference between A/Z, it's easily corrected by trimming in slightly. If you have a kite where you mostly jump going one direction, then there maybe be a difference between the two sides. If you have a dedicated bar for that foil, then you can again easily adjust at the bar by extending the corresponding steering side. This is easily done by preforming the mixer test with the bar still attached. If you use the same bar for multiple kites then this won't work. In that case, you can use pigtails to extend the Z back to A.
Don't get me started on Ozone bridles. First off you have to pay extra for an adjustable bridle. Also the lines are much thicker which are suppose to help reduce line shrinkage but in reality cause more drag instead. Lastly Ozone wants you to add knots to adjust it which in my opinion is a bad way to go. Knots weaken the line. Ozone is still behind the curve here and for the amount of money they charge, it shouldn't be that way. I won't get into the sewing problems, lack of airtightness, and drainage issues. They are starting to catch up though.
@@adventure-logs Im certainly not trying to argue about ozone (not a fan), just trying to clarify. If the tool has the ability to adjust the relative length of az connections then it can be used to do the regular mixer test itself. It is also useful to understand that lengthening z does not have the same effect as adjusting the relative length of the back and front lines. I only mention ozone because their mixer test instructions include the appropriate lengthening of z (=half the shortening of C I think). I am not commenting on price or quality of their mixer. You could at least consider the idea of skipping any pre adjustments and aligning a and z at kite, adjusting the tool connectors to equalises their length, and doing whichever mixer test you choose.
@@DaveSandsyes the tool is well made for that. The 2 attachment lines are just one line , so you may easily slide it to increase A or Z and there is a little piece turning around and maintaining your setting when made and under tension.
So if you cannot line up A and Z together, just slide this adjustment line , check A and Z, then check C (and B) as usually.
Another option is to use screwdrivers in the ground, and you need to adjust their distance to the kite and keep them at roughly 4“ in order to have another way to adjust by moving both laterally. The trim checker is far more easier to use!
My A and Z lines are not equal amd I don't see a way to adjust one of them? Also, which one should I make an adjustment to?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Lastly, do you compare both sides to make sure they are equal?
Typically it's the Z line that shrinks but you can go on the Flysurfer website and find the line plan that will tell you the proper lengths. Best way to see which line is off. If you have a dedicated bar for the kite you can adjust the difference at the bar. If both sides(left and right) and off equally, usually just adjusting the trim(by depowering slightly) will correct this. If one side is off more than the other but again dedicated bar, you can adjust this by adjusting the steering line. Otherwise adding pigtails is another way of getting A and Z realigned.
you dont have to adjust a and z. when you start the mixertest, put too screwdrivers into the ground. fix the mixer at the frontline to one screwdriver. fix the backlines mixer on the other screwdriver. walk left or right to bring a and z to the same lengh. when the same lenght is fond, you can now trim c and b. this tool is designed to replace the screwdrivers. you adjust a and z via this trim tool.
@@adventure-logs Thanks for the help. Another question, do you line up the knots or the black material. There is a small difference.
@@breytengrad Thanks for the help. Another question, do you line up the knots or the black material. There is a small difference.
@@twhall64 I do a short mixer test first(knots) and if it's still not flying like it should, I'll then do the long mixer test(black marks close to the kite)
I like flying kites 😎👍
I don't like fixing the kites 😴
🤣
Yea same, i usually don't touch my foils till after a year of hard use. The trim checker tool makes it pretty easy to get it back to close to factory settings though.
you always speak of the C and mean the Z. i dont understand your spelling