Thank you heaps for doing this video I'm planning to do the same with my Sr20 rebuild & doing it myself with the basic tools I have, the only troubles I'll have is tourqing the bolts down to spec.
I don't know if you already know this, but do not do the ARP spec for the ARP mains, unless the crank area/block was align honed, otherwise the tolerance will be too tight, you will be able to tell when you turn the crank. It will be very difficult, just do factory spec for mains. Something I had to do recently and I needed to redo my mains to the factory spec.
Yeah the mains on those ARP studs are crazy. I do stock torque on them. I applaud you for being one of the few to have run into this issue and notice it. But I’m testing the oil clearances are still great at their recommended torque but it’s too tight for me lol
@@Grainsauce no I'm talking about taking main cap ID, Bearing thickness, and the leftover oil clearance. Even torqued to ARPS rec torque they'd be in spec but you're building a tight ass engine, I like factory spec more that will usually land around 64 ft lbs after the Degree portion. but I've built them at 70 in the past and the clearances are still perfect.
Part 2? 🤔 top end assembly would be dope, I messed up my timing installing cams still not sure if it's right since a cam cap bolt stripped when I was finishing up lmao
I’ll be recording part two over the next couple days. Yeah they strip real easy. Sorry to hear that. If you have any questions message me on Instagram. Thanks for watching!
So we can use use the standard bearing clearance 0.020-0.045 for the mains and rod clearance? Cause on the computer it stated Rod bearing clearance. Just wanna clarify before I start building my SR20.
Hi bud question one day I wanna buy a S14 sr20 do a project car. What some tips to get more power?? Not too crazy power. Would need to get new pistons machine block etcc
Hey man! That’s awesome! I love these damn things so much! What I did was crank the boost on the stock SR to like 15, also got a mail in tune with some bigger injectors, research RSEnthalpy for mail in tunes. Dude is a god, been tuning Nissan’s since the 90s. If you’re in Florida you can just take your car to him. He flew over to Texas a while back and I had him tune the skyline while he was here. I ended up going to about 18psi and the stock t28 lasted a long time until it finally got a bit of shaft play never dynod that setup but I bet it was making at least 320 hp Went and built the block and head rods pistons, retainers, springs, cams and studs and a metal head gasket. Went with 740 cc injectors on 91 pump gas. It was a mail in tune but I ran against a ton of high horsepower cars, one gtr that was making about 630 and I didn’t get the shit beat out of me. I mean I was back there but it was a good race. Tuner estimated that block was making like 450 hp. Sorry for brief on everything I’m at work. I seen you messaged me on Instagram. If you need detailed parts or anything hit me up. As always, thanks for commenting! Your support is much appreciated man. Let’s get out there and build some fast cars!
![Top End Long Block Assembly [Sr20det build guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Scx4GF88yzU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you heaps for doing this video I'm planning to do the same with my Sr20 rebuild & doing it myself with the basic tools I have, the only troubles I'll have is tourqing the bolts down to spec.
Love your videos man! Giving me the knowledge and confidence to build mine one day!
I don't know if you already know this, but do not do the ARP spec for the ARP mains, unless the crank area/block was align honed, otherwise the tolerance will be too tight, you will be able to tell when you turn the crank. It will be very difficult, just do factory spec for mains. Something I had to do recently and I needed to redo my mains to the factory spec.
Yeah the mains on those ARP studs are crazy. I do stock torque on them.
I applaud you for being one of the few to have run into this issue and notice it. But I’m testing the oil clearances are still great at their recommended torque but it’s too tight for me lol
@@ShadeTreeGarage Which ones are the oil clearances, are you talking about the arp rod bolts?
@@Grainsauce no I'm talking about taking main cap ID, Bearing thickness, and the leftover oil clearance.
Even torqued to ARPS rec torque they'd be in spec but you're building a tight ass engine, I like factory spec more that will usually land around 64 ft lbs after the Degree portion. but I've built them at 70 in the past and the clearances are still perfect.
@@ShadeTreeGarage Did you try to turn the crank?
Ive run into this issue. What torque did you do the main studs to? I have mazwork main studs and it is VERY tight to spin the crank at 65 ft lbs
Part 2? 🤔 top end assembly would be dope, I messed up my timing installing cams still not sure if it's right since a cam cap bolt stripped when I was finishing up lmao
I’ll be recording part two over the next couple days.
Yeah they strip real easy. Sorry to hear that. If you have any questions message me on Instagram.
Thanks for watching!
Shade Tree Garage can't wait to see that! I probably will have you dm you at some point haha keep up the great content🤘🏻
Hiii!!! Very nice video, i have a question! What is the piston clearance with the wall for that pistons? Same as factory? Thanks!
Good video, I would like to ask about the direction of the piston. what is the mark that indicates it?
The skirts will often have the skirts trimmed to clear the oil squirters. Easy to identify
So we can use use the standard bearing clearance 0.020-0.045 for the mains and rod clearance? Cause on the computer it stated Rod bearing clearance. Just wanna clarify before I start building my SR20.
Hi bud question one day I wanna buy a S14 sr20 do a project car. What some tips to get more power?? Not too crazy power. Would need to get new pistons machine block etcc
Hey man! That’s awesome! I love these damn things so much!
What I did was crank the boost on the stock SR to like 15, also got a mail in tune with some bigger injectors, research RSEnthalpy for mail in tunes. Dude is a god, been tuning Nissan’s since the 90s. If you’re in Florida you can just take your car to him. He flew over to Texas a while back and I had him tune the skyline while he was here.
I ended up going to about 18psi and the stock t28 lasted a long time until it finally got a bit of shaft play never dynod that setup but I bet it was making at least 320 hp
Went and built the block and head rods pistons, retainers, springs, cams and studs and a metal head gasket. Went with 740 cc injectors on 91 pump gas. It was a mail in tune but I ran against a ton of high horsepower cars, one gtr that was making about 630 and I didn’t get the shit beat out of me. I mean I was back there but it was a good race. Tuner estimated that block was making like 450 hp.
Sorry for brief on everything I’m at work. I seen you messaged me on Instagram. If you need detailed parts or anything hit me up.
As always, thanks for commenting! Your support is much appreciated man. Let’s get out there and build some fast cars!
You used ROD Bearing numbers for the MAINS.
Bro, may I ask how do I get my hands on the computer service manual ??
Sorry this is so late bro! Were you able to get this figured out?
@@ShadeTreeGarage I haven't gotten to building the engine yet but so enjoy watching the videos over and over to familiarize myself
well man if you need anything just shoot me a DM on Instagram man! I'm always there!
Hi I'm doin a sr20 engine build aswell just wondering I've got a vvt bottom with s13 head wat needs to be done for it to work cheers
What year Sentra has the sr so i could look up the service specs?
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