14 How to Weld Chain Using Chain Link and Jump Rings - Free Permanent Jewelry Training
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- People often ask me how to weld permanent chain jewelry so that you cannot tell where the connection is, in other words, not using a jump ring and also leaving no trace of the connection.
There are two conditions before this is possible:
1. The space inside each chain link has to be big enough so that it can fit the link of the other end of the chain into it. So, certain links won't work, like a snake chain or certain Cuban link chains - even though the wire of the link is thick enough for a secure weld, you cannot cut the link open and fit the other link into it. For these types of solid chains, you should fuse the sides together. Please see this video for the technique: studio.youtube...
2. The thickness of the wire of each link (the gauge) must be thick enough that it can weld. It should be at least 26ga, anything thinner might be too thin and you may have to ball the wire, in which case you will be able to see where you've welded. If the chain is very fine, it may be better to simply use a small diameter 24 ga jump ring
If you have these two conditions, welding a seamless connection that is virtually undetectable is very easy.
You need a pair of flush cutters, which means that one side is flat. When you cut using this type of cutter, you end up with a straight edge on one side, and a beveled (squeezed pointy side on the other). Regular wire cutters will give you both sides pointy, which is not good for welding because there is not enough contact surface. So, first I cut the narrow side of the link, then flip the cutter the other way and also cut the pointy edge flush (I find this to be the easiest and much faster than using a saw to cut through the link with both sides flush). Cut away as little as possible so that when you weld it back together, it will be almost the same size as any of the other links.
Pivot the cut link open, slip the closed link from the other end that you want to weld together, and close tightly. Make sure both sides of the open link are perfectly aligned and touching.
Weld, check for security, remove any fire scale (oxidation). Voila, you're done!
Full disclosureAbout us: Stones And Findings is a wholesaler of premium jewellery components. We supply many stores that weld permanent bracelets. Our chains and components are high quality and well made (all 925 silver chains are made in Italy and gold filled chains are American).
You can shop our extensive collection online at wholesale prices by first creating an account (you do not need a business license). You will get instant access to prices and shopping cart at the bottom of this page:stonesandfindi...
Note on Micro Welder I have used in this video:
Orion Micro Welder mPulse 30 is made by Sunstone Engineering, in the USA. Stones And Findings is a premier licensed distributor for Orion Micro Welders.
You can purchase it here 👉 bit.ly/orion-m...
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I love you videos! Could you do a video showing your selection of chains and explaining how long they would last as permanent jewelry? I don’t know much about silver!
Great suggestion! I will do that.
Oh my goodness this is so awesome! I was wondering about jump rings and how necessary they are. I love that look of pure cohesiveness, with no obvious connection. Thank you for sharing your technique of how to snip, flip and snip. It really does seem to help make it more flush. Are there any types of chains specifically you would advise to use a jump ring rather than this method?
Glad it was helpful! I find chains with patterns that are hard to replicate (like hearts and figure 8's or faceted links), it is really hard to shorten, weld and try to make the links look exactly alike. It's better to just use a tiny jump ring than for the link to look wonky or defective. The other thing to consider is your time limit; if you're busy with a line up, much easier to weld with tiny jump ring. Good luck!!! Thanks for your note.
Loving your videos! Quick question, if you open and weld the ends of the links, would it create a weak spot there/prone to wear and tear from frictional movement?
Happy you love my low budget videos!! If welded properly, it should not create a weak spot prone to tear. I have gotten a chain caught while in a hurry (always while in hurry, it seems) and the break was, surprisingly, not on the welded connection point.
Can you show how to do this with a box chain?
Good idea - I will make note to film that
I had to purchase the arc welder from Amazon for now. I have been trying it without argon and blowing my jump rings. Do you recommend I get argon. I dont have any one that I can see doing training with that machine and I don't know what to set it at. I love your videos. You are so helpful but it is hard with a different machine. Can you help me?
Have you seen my video on whether you should get argon gas? Please watch that - it is thorough and gives you photos of results with and without. That would answer your question the best.
Blowing up jump rings has nothing to do with argon gas. It is the connection of your jump ring - the sides of the rings are not connecting to one another. You should see the video on common fails.
Will you tell me what wattage I should use for 22 gauge and 24 gauge jump rings please?
Certainly - I like to use 7.5w. It works with 5w, but require more accuracy for a secure weld. I find that with slightly higher power, at 7.5w, it can compensate for being slightly off from exact center. If you are having trouble getting a secure weld, start with higher power, once you are achieving success each and every time, then lower the power because you can finesse it.
Did you have your Argon gas going during this demo?
No, I did not hook it up to the gas when doing this.
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Thanks for watching, Morgan!