Thanks, Eddie. That looks like a nice PS for the price. It's built a lot better than my GQ-A305D was. I had to practically rebuild mine with new wiring, op-amps, and stuff. I added two power transistors to make it bulletproof. And it is only a 5A.
@@KissAnalog i have an old Kenwood "KPS-10" DC Power supply. I cant seem to find anything about it on the internet. Found a few things about the "KPS-10 A", but not for mine. You know anything about it or can you point me to a site.
Thank you for reviewing this. I was considering three supplies including this one. I liked the look of this one and was considering it, but your review helped me make the decision. I have been using it for a week, and it is a good supply. Once again, thank you.
For the money this is a purdy good power supply! I think, that if people who are learning this stuff and watch this video, might need a schema how you connected everything and the parts you used... Like your capacitor & resistor for discharge and filtering cap... Most people know that the cap is between the + & - but not everyone knows that. Sometimes you show how it is all connected in more details - I think that is great. Also, your white board could be used for the diagram, so people can screen-capture and print it for their collection of "how to's"...etc. Thanks again Eddy!
Great review. Just getting into electronics and Arduino stuff and figured I'd need a power supply at some point and not rely on battery packs. I grabbed this off Amazon 3wks ago for $110Cdn and glad to see it looks like I made a good choice.
Thank you!! I never use the 'green' ground lead. I think you might if there were an advantage with noise maybe... I like to float my outputs and just be safe and not touch anything;)
Looks like this power supply could use a good output filter added to it. That high frequency noise output is not good and needs to be filtered out for sure. Got any good ideas for a better filter ?
@@KissAnalog thanks a lot. This looks awesome but very expensive too. Wonder if other brands have cheaper versions . Thx for taking the time and answer us
Great Video!! I’m pretty new to all of this but I’m trying to charge a small 12V battery for a 8 plug power strip and I’m wondering how high I should set the voltage? On my power supply unit I can’t set the amps unless I adjust the voltage too. And like yours there is virtually no directions or manual except for a few pages. The battery currently is charged to about 6.5V Thanks again !!! I hope that’s clear.
Thanks for the question. Yes many lab supplies need a little voltage to set the current limit. For these, set the voltage to zero, then short the leads and bring the current know up a little. The bring the voltage up a bit until you see current flowing. Then you can go back to the current knob and bring it up to where you want it. I'll do a short video on this...
Thanks for the detailed review. Did you have a chance to look at the PCB and ensure the isolation is good? Also I'll look forward to your video about adding a film cap. PS: I'm almost about to order this supply. I'm tired of hacking USB supplies to power my projects.
I bought an Eventek 30V/10A switching power supply which seems to be of good quality and pretty accurate output. Could you recommend the best capacitor for me to add to smooth out the noise, as in your video?
Hi ! Thanks for taking the time to prepare and make this video! You've had this now for quite some time. Any updates after using this long? I'm looking at buying this model in the next few days... but thought I'd ask if you had anything to add? (BTW... I have seen your "Kaiweets improved..." video too ... thanks!) ... Hope you see this comment so late down the road 🙂
Thanks Rick! I appreciate you! This PS has been solid and I like using it. Easy and fast to set up. Please use my Kaiweets link as they should provide you with a discount. Let me know;)
Replace the fans in your linear supplies with noctua or beQuiet fans. They are a little pricey but well worth the money and work very well. There's no tradeoff for being quiet.
Hey Kiss, thanks for the great review. One question - what was your setup when you measured the output ripple? Often the scope leads actually pick up a lot of radiated noise which makes it look worse on the scope than it really is. I would be interested to see the ripple straight across the terminals with a really short ground connection - maybe it is a bit better? With any long leads from a power supply local decoupling should always be used and will resolve most issues with switching noise.
I swore I responded to this as well as a few others. I don't know why my responses were not uploaded. Sorry about that. Thank you for this. You are right - I wasn't trying to probe with the best methods as I was just showing what one might see. I've meant to do the follow up where I show how to measure and and how to install a simple filter to really clean things up;)
@@KissAnalog hi Eddie, no problem! I am sure that would be a really interesting video. I have since bought the power supply, partly thanks to your review, and I have to say I am impressed with its performance. It really is a lot of bang for the buck. My only frustration is that it doesn't have an output enable / load switch, so you can't easily set the current limit and voltage before connecting the load. Unless I am missing something, to set the current limit you need to short the output, adjust the current to your desired value and then connect the wires to your load. It seems if they'd added a simple switch on the output this would really be an amazing PSU for the money.
i have an old Kenwood "KPS-10" DC Power supply. I cant seem to find anything about it on the internet. Found a few things about the "KPS-10 A", but not for mine. You know anything about it or can you point me to a site.
I read on some reviews on Amazon that you aren't suppose to set voltage above 5 volts , before you short the leads to set constant current on these type power supply
Thanks for your feedback! It is always a good idea to put the voltage at zero and then short the leads. This way you don’t get an arc that will pit your leads. Also it is probably less stress on the PS.
Which one will you choose? & why?... Leaner transformers based heavy ps or super light weight switching ps..? Which is long lasting & does give steady noise less output? As we see many vintage types heavy power supplies in your lab..
That is a great question! If I am picking out a power supply to buy for my bench, I am looking at voltage and current and now really concerned if it is linear or switcher. If I had two at the same price and same power - then I might choose the linear because I wouldn't worry about any possible noise. Linear should be lower noise. But really lighter and smaller is good too, so a switcher is just fine;)
I have an Eventek 30V/10A DC power supply. It stays stuck on a CC of zero, even after I short the leads. Sometimes after a long time, the current will slowly begin to increase above zero, and only then can I make it work just fine. I've tried everything the instructions say, and nothing works. When I turn it on, the CV light is supposed to come on, but doesn't.
Awesome video.. I just purchased this for my G scale trains.. I was lacking amps.. im Currently using a g scale transformer that's 24v 3A ... and also some Laptop power packs that work OK I found out but if this unit works ill buy more.. and make a video on my channel... thanks 👍
Hi, I have this power supply for HHO electrolysis, I ordered a second power supply because I plan to run 14-19amps at 14volts(vehicle voltage). My electrical engineering experience is good but I don't want to blow up 200$ in PSU's. I plan to set the voltages independently to 14.00 and then connect them in parallel with 1ft 12guage ring terminals. Is this as good as I can get with these non-sensing power supplies? should I set one to CC and the other to CA? I figured that splitting the wires of adjustment dials of one psu to the other would 1/2 the requested voltage because it's a potentiometer(resistive) and any tuning pot's would screw with that.
Thanks for the great question! To be super safe, I'd use large diodes on each output to parallel. There's always the chance of back feeding into one of the PS. It is easy to series them, but in parallel, the diodes make it safe. Does this make sense?
@@KissAnalog awesome and good idea with the diodes. Any thoughts on what kind of diode? 10A50V rectifier diodes seem common and cheap enough. The electrolysis cell will never be disconnected so they should be more then enough to handle any back feed eh? (canadian lol) So from my research, I’m just going to twist and solder a bunch of them in parallel to make a 12/14 gauge connection and it should be good? I read that as long as the reverse voltage is not met there should be no leakage. 25 were 13CAD.
Is there a plastic peel and remove on front faceplate? Normally there to protect plastic during shipping. Mine looks to be not there or is it so tight , I can see where to peel it? I don't want to damage front but I see some light scratches? Let me know what others find.
That's a great question! I can't remember, but if I didn't show removing it in the video, then it probably wasn't there. My displays are shiny and very smooth, so I could see how they could be easily scratched.
Stumped! I'm trying to top balance some new LiFePO4 cells using its constant voltage mode. Directions tell me to turn the amp knobs clockwise all the way, then set it to my desired voltage (3.65v in my case), then connect the battery to the terminals. As soon as i do that, it reverts to the constant current mode. Any idea how to keep this in constant current mode?? Any help would be much appreciated. thanks for the video!
If I understand what’s happening.., The power supply will droop with the load. So the battery will pull it down and go into constant current until the battery is charged enough to let the voltage come up. Make sense?
Hi there, thanks to share your experience and knowledge. It seems that the brand kaiweets has disappeared for such power supply item. Any recommendation on AliExpress/ Banggood alternative ? Philippe
I was just about to ask if it had a big transformer in it like my Dr. Meter 30v 5a that is having issues, then you threw it into the air and my question was answered. Its now got 298 reviews on amazon and great ratings. Hmm.. might pick one up.
Ot of those cheap psus like mine have fine and course for volts and current but they're mutually exclusive. Like I can't set mine to 5v at 2.5a max draw. I have to turn volts down to zero to adjust current ceiling and the opposite with volts. Had I known this I would've never bought it but I was still new and never realized for a few months. It was dropped as well and no longer works reliably. I keep it for parts now. I plan to make it into the enclosure for my isolation transformer.
@@KissAnalog no its some off brand name. It's alot more expensive than the kaiweets though and a million times shittier. I'm waiting for a brand new owon psu that just came out but Canada customs aren't releasing it and the sender, who is extremely trustworthy cannot find out any info from the US postal service after they handed it off. It's a sweet supply too. It was sent over 2 months ago. Covid is a bitch, if your package doesn't go through a broker it just gets put to the side. It's happened to me a few times now with Canadian customs. It's an owon with a big tft that shows and stores the voltage used over time like an oscilloscope. I'm gonna suck it up and buy one after Paul reviews the new one he's replacing his broken one with.
How is it holding up? edit: I am up to 26m of the vid and the one thing I despise is that there is no button to make it CC or CV. I want/need that as the way you were doing it seemed a good way to blow stuff up since it has to be connected to get it to change over.
This power supply has been great. It is CV essentially all the time, once you set it at the voltage that you want. You can set the current limit then by shorting the leads and adjusting the current level to the max that you want. That way you can set a max known current to protect your circuit. I did an update to lower the noise; ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
Thanks kiss, is it possible to make a video for using this PS to charge car lead acid battery, I’ve one PS 30v 6a, but I am afraid of using it to charge 40 ah car battery. Greetings from Saudi Arabia.
Thanks for your review! After watching, I ordered one and received it today. I’m a rookie, so maybe a dumb question. Why didn’t they put a switch that allowed unit to be on so u could make adjustments, but not put out power until you were ready? Could a person put a switch in the leads to accomplish this or am I making too big a deal of it?
Thanks Jay! I agree, having an on/off switch for output is very nice. It would be easy to add this. It is usually found in more expensive PS, but not always. You can just pull the banana jack out, adjust the voltage where you want it and then plug it in. That's close to the same thing, but if you don't jam it in fast, then you might have more sparks;) Adding a switch is a nice idea, maybe I'll make a video doing that;)
@Kiss Analog the other issue with the CE marking is it's counterfeited by Chinese Manufacturers all the time. It's called Chinese Export and the logo is slightly different from the true EU CE marking. The difference is so subtle that the average person can't tell the difference between the authentic one and the Chinese one. That's why people really don't trust that marking anymore.
Thanks for the feedback! I think companies like Kaiweets have too much to lose to be doing that. They actually show the proper marking. Now, to remember, this is a self test/certification though.
Thanks but UL cents for multimeters is a paid for cert. I was actually a certified UL tester at a company I worked for so we were self certified, but we still had to turn in our test documents to UL and pay their fee. UL still had to send us notice that it was approved. And they audited us all the time - at our cost. They make money on these carts;)
Nice review again. This is a normal SMPS, not a linear suplly, is it? A ripple 1,5 Vp-p is quite a lot even on full load! There are so many different PSUs around, some much cheaper with similar specs. I came over the RuiDeng Supplies which are more-less buck-converters. I have the DPS5020 which can deliver up to 1000W at up to 50V and 20A output, up to 60V input. Of course you need an extra PSU for the 60V input - but i just use my Solar panel array for that :-) If i need more power i can connect it to a server power supply, which can deliver up to 52 V and in the 6 kW-range :-)
I got three of these cheap psu😃 But how did you measure current on the scope? You didnt show that.. please dont forget, that some of us are dummies🤗 Happy new year ..
@@KissAnalog I really dont know how I could miss that. But I did.. I do have a couple of quastion I would like to ask you, would you consider making a Q&A livestream where we coul ask you about things? (Electronics stuff, not personal) Claus
I do like it and still think it is better than anything else that has this resolution. There is a new version with even higher res for just a bit more: amzn.to/3DOQiZT
That’s a great question! I haven’t run it that long, but my thoughts would be that it would be fine. It turns on a fan when it gets hot and I’ve run it at 10 amps max for a little bit and it didn’t seem to have any trouble.
@@KissAnalog Thanks for the answer! Got an Eventek in today and have it running at 13v/8.5a, we'll see how it does! Update: run many times 24 hr or more at 12+v and 9+A with no issues.
You can use your ordinary probes as long as the ground clips are on the same conductor (on DC/DC converters). If it is an AC/DC converter, then put the ground clips on primary ground, or all on secondary ground. Safe way is to use diff probes.
I'm not sure who actually manufactures this, but I know Wanptek, Longwei, Dr Bench, and others are identical. Just different colors and brand labels. I know mine has been very reliable and pretty bullet proof.
The PE terminals are getting rare these days. Even the big players like Rohde & Schwarz discard them. I think this is not a good move. I have several power supplies (each one for a different task) and if I want to couple some voltages to a common point, then I use the PE terminal. This way I can use my high current power supply in conjunction with my low current dual power supply, both sharing a common ground this way. Sure I can also couple them without a PE terminal using a longer wire but actually I like shorter wires that doesn't take away any space on my desk nor contribute to a even bigger ratsnest. What I'm missing on your review is the line input PE to case connection, which is in my opinion the most important connection.
That’s great feedback BeamFinder, and I agree the PE should always be added for optional use. When I started showing the tear down I tried to show the connection from input ground to case. I ended up moving faster cause I thought the video was getting long;)
Make sure the fuse or breaker is good. If the voltage shows that it can be raised, make sure that min current limit is not set too low. Even without a load the current level needs to be set above min. Let us know if that helps. Thank you for asking.
I was working on this for the Kaiweets video I just did, but I thought it would be too long, so I decided to make it it's own video;) Thanks for asking!
on the internet page on amazon it says ou need to sitch between 120v input and 230v input. is there a switch or is the power supply doing it automatic?
That is a great Question! I see where it says that there is a switch, but it is not on the outside of the unit in back. I planned to do a follow up video showing an improvement and also showing more capabilities but now I'll add to that a look inside (while I show the improvement that I will make) to see if there is a switch or easy way to configure it for 230/220 VAC. Thanks for asking!
I wish they would make a power supply that has LED readouts for voltage, current and resistance (calculated). I don't need to know the wattage all that badly.
Hi there I just watch this video and the other one about Kaiweets psu again. I have three of the same supply. Kaiweets is only a trading company, and they don't manufacture anything themself. These psu are made by Wanptek. I don't understand, are there any reason not to leave the film capacitor on for ever. I also have a Handskit combined Rework solder station and Bench top psu, and that has a bit more ripple than the WanpTek's. I am temped to mount the filter cap inside, should I do that? Btw.. Habotest is the manufacture of the Kaiweets meters. I have been selling Habotest meters for three years, and they have become rather expensive compared to Kaiweets the last two years 😄 maybee it is because Kaiweets gets all the publicity 🙂 One last thing. Can you make a test of a lowcost variable AC power supply, or AC power source as Aliexpress calls them. These AC psu, are they real AC power that can run all AC things, or are they something like a triac thing. I cant find a cheap model, but only this one www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001344455013.html?spm=a2g0s.8937518.0.0.7bce2e0epsvFuQ Keep up the good work.. Claus, denmark
Thanks for the great questions Claus! I think Kaiweets has been doing a great job and somehow getting great prices. BTW you can get 15% off at their website by using my code KA15. I am going to review the Wanptek power supply. I really like it and the size is smaller than this one. Use this link then use the code KA15 to get the 15% discount - even if it is on sale it works;) kaiweets.com/products/wanptek-aps The AC power supply looks great - I'd love to get one to review. ;)
I was looking at those and they were going to send me one but then it got lost. I'll look into the spec. I might have another great option...I'm looking into it now.
If your ammeter is a clamp-on type, yes you can put a turn or more to double or more the current reading. If it is a digital multimeter that runs current through it - that might be harder to get more resolution. Is that what you were asking? I appreciate the question;)
@@KissAnalog Thanks for the fast reply, what i meant was the 4 digit current display of the power supply. I have a similar one like the Kaiweets in the video and mine has also some potis inside, but i have no clue what they are for. I also have Amps measuring with dot 2 digits.
I think the pots are for adjusting the current and voltage readings. Here’s a new video showing how to reduce the noise:). ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
I actually just bought this power supply after watching your video. Question about that film cap, is that ran in line with the positive, or is it crossed? Also, what is the specks on the film cap? Thank you :)
Sir,can you get for me sencore 'z' meter for testing capacitors and induction.I can see that unit you have. second hand unit OK if in good condition.thanks.
@@KissAnalog Once I had most of the testing equipments. You just name it.more than 150,000 Malaysia ringgit worth of equipments. All gone 2004 tsunami. Almost fifty years.my house gone and family death.
@@KissAnalog Once I had most of the testing equipments. You just name it.more than 150,000 Malaysia ringgit worth of equipments. All gone 2004 tsunami. Almost fifty years.my house gone and family death.thanks
yes, I think I'll add it permanently, but I'm going to probably do a video update when I find just the right fix. The 1 uF seemed great. I might also experiment with a ferrite core wrapped around the output leads internally if that helps with high frequency. Maybe just twisting the leads...
@@KissAnalog I can't find it in the video. What ripple did you find? The marketing information on Amazon says Ripple & noise : ≤20mV r.m.s That seems pretty low, but did you find the ripple is actually worse and does not meet the stated specification?
Hi Fred. Do you mean output voltage to protective earth ground? It is a floating output that you can tie to earth ground if you like. Is that what you mean?
What I don't understand is why computer power supplies can have such low noise and ripple, but these things ripple is huge compared to computer PSU. Why is that? I mean, you can get a clean computer PSU for under 80 bucks. I know computer supplies are max 12V, and not 30V, but why do these SPS have to have so much ripple? The Corsair RM650X, for example, only has 10.3mV Ripple @ 100% Load (as measured by Tom's Hardware).
Great question! Thank you! First, at max power is the best and easiest way to get a great measurement. The worst is at a low power where there’s no load to reduce the noise. A variable output with variable loads is a completely different game;)
@@KissAnalog Hey Eddie, thanks for the reply. Tom's shows the Corasair RM650x @ 3.6mV at 10% load. The worst ripple they got from 10%-100% ( in 10% increments) was the 110% power number, which was 11.6mV. You can see the chart if you search for "Tom's Corsair RM650x" on the page "ripple measurements (It would be interesting to see your ideas behind those readings). Another thing I don't understand is how Kaiweets can publish ripple specs that state: "Current Ripple & noise : ≤20mV r.m.s". Seriously, that must be some sort of magic measurement, for sure, because it has nothing to do with real world ripple, as you have shown.
John Hind Sorry about that John, I normally do, but there’s a lot to think about making these videos and sometimes I forget something. Sorry about that.
The more components you have the more chances one of them will go bad in the future. I hate these noisy switching PSU. Give me a linear one over this any day.
Thanks and I agree, every part adds to the reliability risk assessment. But having enough parts to keep overall stress levels down is also important. The Switching noise does have to be felt with but so many PS are switchers these days;) A well built linear is nice!
You must think my time is free. I take all the time and years that I have been doing this seriously. These free items I give away - or many of them. Most of these reviews I do only for the viewer - but occasionally I get something that I want on my bench. If you see it on my bench - that should mean something. I’d rather be doing other ‘design’ type videos - but viewers like reviews - so I take them seriously. So, watch the review without sound - see what it does and how it works - and look at the inside build. Without sound - you can trust your own eyes. I don’t accept half the stuff that I am offered. I do my research - and at times I get something that I don’t show. I think I will show these items though - but I’ll point out what doesn’t impress me. The reviews that are hard to trust are the ones that are sponsored where the reviewer is paid to do the review. I don’t show the vendor the video before I publish - and all I am asked to do is use their name in the video.
@@KissAnalog definitely, I have the zotek version kicking around somewhere. That amprobe I was telling you about is apart on my bench. The needle works and the clamp has continuity so I'm gonna fix it hopefully. I should've tested it earlier but I paid like 3 dollars for it haha. I was using my owon b35+ today and a part of cringed at just paying 150 for the ut61e+ haha. You should do a thing on making your own leads for different purposes. Like what type and gauge should be used for a psu and how to diy better dmm probes. I've been researching it but you never know if the wire you order is going to be real silicone and if the strands are real untinned copper. Amazon is hopeless for untinned stranded and hardware stores don't sell high end wire. My brother in law will only sell good ptfe wire by the spool for like 2500 beans lol
Thanks for this feedback! I do plan to do a video showing how to clean this up. It is such a low cost PS and has been great on my bench - so I still like it;)
I tested the leads that came with it at 10 amps to see if they overheated. I think they dissipated about 10 Watts. Is this the test you are referring to? Didn’t you think that was worthwhile. I also got near max power before that. Sorry I missed the test that you wanted, but not sure what the problem is.
@@KissAnalog ok i bought two branded Nice-Power the one with watts display and the other one with 10 turns voltage potentiometer and both deliver 300 watts with no problem , i tested with a big 3 ohm /1000 watts resistor made from heating resistor wire. All I can say this power source ,it can't been be build better than that, its very nice and the price its insane cheap for what it contain inside.
I have that and it's garbage. It can't go over 4 amps and that's with the psu struggling. I have one from longwei that is identical except for the color. Same guts too
@@KissAnalog I have that tektronix tds2002c. It's awesome man. Never used except when he turned it on after purchase then again before our trade. He gave me a 30 pound 8 amp isolation transformer.
First time I ever gave one of your videos a thumbs down and thought I owed you an explanation. It goes completely off the rails at 16:27. The FLIR (expensive, high resolution) meter is reading seriously low compared to the PSU readout. You do not notice this until 19:40 when you bring in a cheapo low res meter and measure at the PSU output terminals getting a much closer reading. You correctly diagnose the problem as voltage drop over the inadequate test leads supplied with the PSU. Now for some unexplained reason you throw out the good meter and use the cheap one for the rest of the video, continuing to use the inadequate test leads and probing the voltage at the load end! Unsurprisingly the cheap meter reads just as low as the good one had. Result - you never properly test the accuracy of the PSU!
John Hind I appreciate the feedback. I do try to improve my production of these videos, and I hope I am. After all, this hobby does cost me a lot in time and money away from my actual job and family, but most hobbies do. I should have used a second meter showing the voltage right at the terminals. Actually the problem with the reading being so low was a bad connection that I did report just before I also reported a 0.1 V drop due to the leads. After that at the same 2 Amps the meter was solid showing 0.1 V drop. I am using the leads that came with it and actually were not too bad. I meant to show that the leads are important and you do get a drop because of the leads. I show the max current thru these leads later in the video and how hot they get. I should have explained this better, but I did suggest bigger leads, and that these were just the ones that came with it. Thanks again for taking your time to explain the hit on the video.
Thanks for asking. This channel cost me a lot to run. I do get some free items, but I buy a lot more. This is a small channel still and I have sent items to other countries but it just cost too much. When my channel gets bigger, maybe I will have some money to be able to do this. Sorry - but maybe some day;)
not sure what these gizmos do but I know if I have a few of these machines on my bench and some random wires I will probably get a pay rise. Now slow down on the terminology. It's big words for a small mind. Teach me the basic things to say to impress my boss and more importantly the chicks.
I was looking for a cheap switching power supply my last one was a PEVONO PS305H The power lead started melting when they were pushed to their MAX wattage had to make my own heavy duty. It died after 28 days had it replaced and the next new one died in six months. My three linear Power supplies are all over 30 years old BK Precision 1651, Hewlett-Packard 6205C, Acopian A24H850, still working like new never had a problem.
Thanks, Eddie. That looks like a nice PS for the price. It's built a lot better than my GQ-A305D was. I had to practically rebuild mine with new wiring, op-amps, and stuff. I added two power transistors to make it bulletproof. And it is only a 5A.
It does seem to be built well - especially for the price;). Thanks Robert!
@@KissAnalog i have an old Kenwood "KPS-10" DC Power supply. I cant seem to find anything about it on the internet. Found a few things about the "KPS-10 A", but not for mine. You know anything about it or can you point me to a site.
Thank you for reviewing this. I was considering three supplies including this one. I liked the look of this one and was considering it, but your review helped me make the decision. I have been using it for a week, and it is a good supply. Once again, thank you.
That's awesome - thank you for the feedback!
Out of curiosity, was Gophert on your list?
I think I did look at it - I’ll have to take another look;)
Thanks. You seem extremely knowledgeable. I dont understand half of what you said, but I enjoyed listening anyway.
LOL Thanks! I Appreciate you!
Nice thing to say !
thx for the review....I ordered this one today on amazon and lucky to see I have no buyer remorse....pretty good for what I need I think
That’s great - thank you for the great feedback!!
For the money this is a purdy good power supply! I think, that if people who are learning this stuff and watch this video, might need a schema how you connected everything and the parts you used... Like your capacitor & resistor for discharge and filtering cap... Most people know that the cap is between the + & - but not everyone knows that. Sometimes you show how it is all connected in more details - I think that is great. Also, your white board could be used for the diagram, so people can screen-capture and print it for their collection of "how to's"...etc. Thanks again Eddy!
Thanks for the great feedback Tony! I’ll try to improve with input like this.
Great review. Just getting into electronics and Arduino stuff and figured I'd need a power supply at some point and not rely on battery packs. I grabbed this off Amazon 3wks ago for $110Cdn and glad to see it looks like I made a good choice.
That’s great! Thanks for the feedback!
Nice review Eddie. I've got one those too. Been trying to fit it in.
Thank you Paul! It seems like a good PS, especially for the cost;)
Check stage by stage. You can find the problem. Calm your mind and search patiently.
yeah, very nice and good quality power supply. better than what you normally see for the money.
I agree Ricardo - this does seem to be a nice Power Supply.
geez… after watching this review I think I know how to make a power supply. Excellent in depth review. Impressive.
Thanks - that's awesome;)
Nice review. When would you use a ground lead? When it's higher voltage / amps?
Thank you!! I never use the 'green' ground lead. I think you might if there were an advantage with noise maybe... I like to float my outputs and just be safe and not touch anything;)
Looks like this power supply could use a good output filter added to it. That high frequency noise output is not good and needs to be filtered out for sure. Got any good ideas for a better filter ?
As usual great video!! What about a variable AC power supply. Do you have/recommend any?
There is a new company that has sent me a DC PS, but I want to try their AC PS. It looks great and is on sale now with this link: amzn.to/3unTE2u
@@KissAnalog thanks a lot. This looks awesome but very expensive too. Wonder if other brands have cheaper versions . Thx for taking the time and answer us
Great Video!!
I’m pretty new to all of this but I’m trying to charge a small 12V battery for a 8 plug power strip and I’m wondering how high I should set the voltage? On my power supply unit I can’t set the amps unless I adjust the voltage too. And like yours there is virtually no directions or manual except for a few pages.
The battery currently is charged to about 6.5V
Thanks again !!!
I hope that’s clear.
Thanks for the question. Yes many lab supplies need a little voltage to set the current limit. For these, set the voltage to zero, then short the leads and bring the current know up a little. The bring the voltage up a bit until you see current flowing. Then you can go back to the current knob and bring it up to where you want it. I'll do a short video on this...
Thank you
Wow!... Well construction and nice design power supply in that price... I like this one..
Thank you! I agree, for the price especially - it is very nice;)
Nice review Eddie, looking for a beginner power supply for laptop repair and this seems to tick the right boxes. Thanks!
I do think this looks good. Thanks Stinger!
Thanks for the detailed review. Did you have a chance to look at the PCB and ensure the isolation is good?
Also I'll look forward to your video about adding a film cap.
PS: I'm almost about to order this supply. I'm tired of hacking USB supplies to power my projects.
It looks like they have done a nice job with the isolation. Thanks for the great feedback! I’ll try to do that soon;)
I just ordered one thanks for your help.
Thanks for the feedback! Let us know what you think once you get it:)
I bought an Eventek 30V/10A switching power supply which seems to be of good quality and pretty accurate output. Could you recommend the best capacitor for me to add to smooth out the noise, as in your video?
Hi ! Thanks for taking the time to prepare and make this video! You've had this now for quite some time. Any updates after using this long? I'm looking at buying this model in the next few days... but thought I'd ask if you had anything to add? (BTW... I have seen your "Kaiweets improved..." video too ... thanks!)
... Hope you see this comment so late down the road 🙂
Thanks Rick! I appreciate you! This PS has been solid and I like using it. Easy and fast to set up. Please use my Kaiweets link as they should provide you with a discount. Let me know;)
The fine tune feature is pretty cool!
Yes I agree. Thanks for the feedback!
@@KissAnalog welcome 🤓
Replace the fans in your linear supplies with noctua or beQuiet fans. They are a little pricey but well worth the money and work very well. There's no tradeoff for being quiet.
Thank you! I"ll look into these!
@@KissAnalog I add them to my pcs and 3d printer power supplies and hotends. It's well worth it man.
Hey Kiss, thanks for the great review. One question - what was your setup when you measured the output ripple? Often the scope leads actually pick up a lot of radiated noise which makes it look worse on the scope than it really is. I would be interested to see the ripple straight across the terminals with a really short ground connection - maybe it is a bit better? With any long leads from a power supply local decoupling should always be used and will resolve most issues with switching noise.
This article probably explains what I am on about better than me: www.eetimes.com/power-tip-6-accurately-measuring-power-supply-ripple/#
I swore I responded to this as well as a few others. I don't know why my responses were not uploaded. Sorry about that. Thank you for this. You are right - I wasn't trying to probe with the best methods as I was just showing what one might see. I've meant to do the follow up where I show how to measure and and how to install a simple filter to really clean things up;)
@@KissAnalog hi Eddie, no problem! I am sure that would be a really interesting video. I have since bought the power supply, partly thanks to your review, and I have to say I am impressed with its performance. It really is a lot of bang for the buck. My only frustration is that it doesn't have an output enable / load switch, so you can't easily set the current limit and voltage before connecting the load. Unless I am missing something, to set the current limit you need to short the output, adjust the current to your desired value and then connect the wires to your load. It seems if they'd added a simple switch on the output this would really be an amazing PSU for the money.
Here’s a new video on this power supply cleaning up the noise: ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
i have an old Kenwood "KPS-10" DC Power supply. I cant seem to find anything about it on the internet. Found a few things about the "KPS-10 A", but not for mine. You know anything about it or can you point me to a site.
I read on some reviews on Amazon that you aren't suppose to set voltage above 5 volts , before you short the leads to set constant current on these type power supply
Thanks for your feedback! It is always a good idea to put the voltage at zero and then short the leads. This way you don’t get an arc that will pit your leads. Also it is probably less stress on the PS.
Which one will you choose? & why?... Leaner transformers based heavy ps or super light weight switching ps..? Which is long lasting & does give steady noise less output?
As we see many vintage types heavy power supplies in your lab..
That is a great question! If I am picking out a power supply to buy for my bench, I am looking at voltage and current and now really concerned if it is linear or switcher. If I had two at the same price and same power - then I might choose the linear because I wouldn't worry about any possible noise. Linear should be lower noise. But really lighter and smaller is good too, so a switcher is just fine;)
Hi sir, I would like to ask what is your choice between the old PMC18-5AS and PS-3010DF. Thank you, sir.
I think for hobbies is just right and 100 bucks not bad at all I like the fact that it doesn't use a heavy toroid 😄
I agree - it is a good price. I’d like to see them come up with a dual tracking power supply;)
I have an Eventek 30V/10A DC power supply. It stays stuck on a CC of zero, even after I short the leads. Sometimes after a long time, the current will slowly begin to increase above zero, and only then can I make it work just fine. I've tried everything the instructions say, and nothing works. When I turn it on, the CV light is supposed to come on, but doesn't.
Awesome video..
I just purchased this for my G scale trains.. I was lacking amps.. im Currently using a g scale transformer that's 24v 3A ... and also some Laptop power packs that work OK I found out but if this unit works ill buy more.. and make a video on my channel... thanks 👍
Thank you! You will have to let us know so that we can watch;)
Hi, I have this power supply for HHO electrolysis, I ordered a second power supply because I plan to run 14-19amps at 14volts(vehicle voltage). My electrical engineering experience is good but I don't want to blow up 200$ in PSU's. I plan to set the voltages independently to 14.00 and then connect them in parallel with 1ft 12guage ring terminals. Is this as good as I can get with these non-sensing power supplies? should I set one to CC and the other to CA?
I figured that splitting the wires of adjustment dials of one psu to the other would 1/2 the requested voltage because it's a potentiometer(resistive) and any tuning pot's would screw with that.
Thanks for the great question! To be super safe, I'd use large diodes on each output to parallel. There's always the chance of back feeding into one of the PS. It is easy to series them, but in parallel, the diodes make it safe. Does this make sense?
@@KissAnalog awesome and good idea with the diodes. Any thoughts on what kind of diode? 10A50V rectifier diodes seem common and cheap enough. The electrolysis cell will never be disconnected so they should be more then enough to handle any back feed eh? (canadian lol)
So from my research, I’m just going to twist and solder a bunch of them in parallel to make a 12/14 gauge connection and it should be good? I read that as long as the reverse voltage is not met there should be no leakage. 25 were 13CAD.
Is there a plastic peel and remove on front faceplate? Normally there to protect plastic during shipping. Mine looks to be not there or is it so tight , I can see where to peel it? I don't want to damage front but I see some light scratches? Let me know what others find.
That's a great question! I can't remember, but if I didn't show removing it in the video, then it probably wasn't there. My displays are shiny and very smooth, so I could see how they could be easily scratched.
Hello, would you kindly advise what you would buy?
This unit or the RockSeed RS305P they are both around £73 on Amazon
Thanks
That's a great question. There are a few now that look very good. I actually think I'll buy one of these to review. amzn.to/3yzyiiB
Stumped! I'm trying to top balance some new LiFePO4 cells using its
constant voltage mode. Directions tell me to turn the amp knobs
clockwise all the way, then set it to my desired voltage (3.65v in my
case), then connect the battery to the terminals. As soon as i do that,
it reverts to the constant current mode. Any idea how to keep this in
constant current mode?? Any help would be much appreciated. thanks for
the video!
If I understand what’s happening.., The power supply will droop with the load. So the battery will pull it down and go into constant current until the battery is charged enough to let the voltage come up. Make sense?
Thanks for the great video. I just bought this power supply, as well as the Kaiweets multimeter you used.
That’s great! Let us know what you think;) I hope you like them as much as I do.
Hi there, thanks to share your experience and knowledge.
It seems that the brand kaiweets has disappeared for such power supply item. Any recommendation on AliExpress/ Banggood alternative ?
Philippe
Thank you! Kaiweets should be back soon;) I'll take a look OK?
@@KissAnalog thanks for your feedback. Funny that they are available anymore !
I was just about to ask if it had a big transformer in it like my Dr. Meter 30v 5a that is having issues, then you threw it into the air and my question was answered.
Its now got 298 reviews on amazon and great ratings. Hmm.. might pick one up.
LOL it is pretty light;) If you do get one let us know how you like it.
Ok, you’ve earned it.
Thank you! I appreciate you!
KAIWEETS!! they also have the #1 multimeter!! I'm a flir Multimeter man myself...
Thank you! You must have seen me filming my next review on Kaiweets meters;)
wow after the load the supply keeps the 32.01V steady nice
vargasmongo3435 It sure does. Thanks for the feedback Vargasmongo3435;) I am watching your last review - cool amp;)
@@KissAnalog thank you I'll try to make it in English is a good design from Nelson Pass designer I'm just making a clone 😊
That’s great! ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
Can I ask you if you put the caps on the output you mentioned to clean up the HF's and if so what were the values you chose please?
I'll do a video on this - I haven't had time to get there yet.
Please let me know when you have done and I will be interested to watch@@KissAnalog
@@MrPaulSharman Me too! I would be very interested to watch that video! Thanks.
Here’s the new video: ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
Good video. You sound like you could do a good impression of Terry Davis if you tried.
Which Terry Davis? ;)
Ot of those cheap psus like mine have fine and course for volts and current but they're mutually exclusive. Like I can't set mine to 5v at 2.5a max draw. I have to turn volts down to zero to adjust current ceiling and the opposite with volts. Had I known this I would've never bought it but I was still new and never realized for a few months. It was dropped as well and no longer works reliably. I keep it for parts now. I plan to make it into the enclosure for my isolation transformer.
Hey Joey, is it a Kaiweets?
@@KissAnalog no its some off brand name. It's alot more expensive than the kaiweets though and a million times shittier. I'm waiting for a brand new owon psu that just came out but Canada customs aren't releasing it and the sender, who is extremely trustworthy cannot find out any info from the US postal service after they handed it off. It's a sweet supply too. It was sent over 2 months ago. Covid is a bitch, if your package doesn't go through a broker it just gets put to the side. It's happened to me a few times now with Canadian customs. It's an owon with a big tft that shows and stores the voltage used over time like an oscilloscope. I'm gonna suck it up and buy one after Paul reviews the new one he's replacing his broken one with.
This was a really interesting review! Did you happen to notice if the input fuse was across the neutral or live line?
I think it was the live line, but I'll have to check when I improve the output ripple/noise content;)
How is it holding up? edit: I am up to 26m of the vid and the one thing I despise is that there is no button to make it CC or CV. I want/need that as the way you were doing it seemed a good way to blow stuff up since it has to be connected to get it to change over.
This power supply has been great. It is CV essentially all the time, once you set it at the voltage that you want. You can set the current limit then by shorting the leads and adjusting the current level to the max that you want. That way you can set a max known current to protect your circuit. I did an update to lower the noise; ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
Thanks kiss, is it possible to make a video for using this PS to charge car lead acid battery, I’ve one PS 30v 6a, but I am afraid of using it to charge 40 ah car battery.
Greetings from Saudi Arabia.
Great question! I’ll do this video soon!
Thanks for your review! After watching, I ordered one and received it today. I’m a rookie, so maybe a dumb question. Why didn’t they put a switch that allowed unit to be on so u could make adjustments, but not put out power until you were ready? Could a person put a switch in the leads to accomplish this or am I making too big a deal of it?
Thanks Jay! I agree, having an on/off switch for output is very nice. It would be easy to add this. It is usually found in more expensive PS, but not always. You can just pull the banana jack out, adjust the voltage where you want it and then plug it in. That's close to the same thing, but if you don't jam it in fast, then you might have more sparks;) Adding a switch is a nice idea, maybe I'll make a video doing that;)
@@KissAnalog Would you add a switch to both the positive and negative leads? Or just one or the other? What do you recommend for better leads?
I’d add it to just the positive lead.
Great detailed video.. Thank you once again..
Debi Hansen You bet! Thanks!
@Kiss Analog the other issue with the CE marking is it's counterfeited by Chinese Manufacturers all the time. It's called Chinese Export and the logo is slightly different from the true EU CE marking. The difference is so subtle that the average person can't tell the difference between the authentic one and the Chinese one. That's why people really don't trust that marking anymore.
Thanks for the feedback! I think companies like Kaiweets have too much to lose to be doing that. They actually show the proper marking. Now, to remember, this is a self test/certification though.
@@KissAnalog yes So is some UL certifications too.
Thanks but UL cents for multimeters is a paid for cert. I was actually a certified UL tester at a company I worked for so we were self certified, but we still had to turn in our test documents to UL and pay their fee. UL still had to send us notice that it was approved. And they audited us all the time - at our cost. They make money on these carts;)
Nice review again. This is a normal SMPS, not a linear suplly, is it? A ripple 1,5 Vp-p is quite a lot even on full load! There are so many different PSUs around, some much cheaper with similar specs. I came over the RuiDeng Supplies which are more-less buck-converters. I have the DPS5020 which can deliver up to 1000W at up to 50V and 20A output, up to 60V input. Of course you need an extra PSU for the 60V input - but i just use my Solar panel array for that :-) If i need more power i can connect it to a server power supply, which can deliver up to 52 V and in the 6 kW-range :-)
Than you - and great feedback! The Kaiweets is also a switcher. I’ll show how to use a small filter to clean it up;)
@@KissAnalog Yes, its amazing what this little cap can do! :-)
I agree - thank you! Here’s the new video to reduce noise: ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
I got three of these cheap psu😃
But how did you measure current on the scope? You didnt show that.. please dont forget, that some of us are dummies🤗
Happy new year ..
Thanks for asking! Look at 11:45 I show a current probe;) I'll do a better job at explaining the set up and what and why I'm doing that.
@@KissAnalog
I really dont know how I could miss that. But I did..
I do have a couple of quastion I would like to ask you, would you consider making a Q&A livestream where we coul ask you about things? (Electronics stuff, not personal)
Claus
Thanks Claus - that's a great idea! I'll schedule one and let's see how it goes;)
Would you recommend the HT-A1 thermal camera?
I do like it and still think it is better than anything else that has this resolution. There is a new version with even higher res for just a bit more: amzn.to/3DOQiZT
@@KissAnalog how do you think it compares to the UNI-T UTI260B ?
good show man i just got say KAIWEETS has Digital Multimeter like HABOTEST one like you have for 40$ and works great
Thank you and thanks for the great feedback!
Hello Sir, wondering how would this work under constant load such as 48 hours @ 12v/6amp? Thanks
That’s a great question! I haven’t run it that long, but my thoughts would be that it would be fine. It turns on a fan when it gets hot and I’ve run it at 10 amps max for a little bit and it didn’t seem to have any trouble.
@@KissAnalog Thanks for the answer! Got an Eventek in today and have it running at 13v/8.5a, we'll see how it does! Update: run many times 24 hr or more at 12+v and 9+A with no issues.
Hey guys. Can i for an example use this power supply to charge my lithium ion battery packs?
Yes you should be able to. Set the voltage up to match what your charge controller wants and it should be great.
Yes, I have used it for this purpose, works fine.
Here’s a new video to lower noise: ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
HEy if i dont have a isolation transformer on the input for my scope for checking smps p/s what probes i can use? thanks
You can use your ordinary probes as long as the ground clips are on the same conductor (on DC/DC converters). If it is an AC/DC converter, then put the ground clips on primary ground, or all on secondary ground. Safe way is to use diff probes.
I'm not sure who actually manufactures this, but I know Wanptek, Longwei, Dr Bench, and others are identical. Just different colors and brand labels. I know mine has been very reliable and pretty bullet proof.
Thanks John for your feedback! I don't know who the actual manufacturer is. It might be Kaiweets, but not sure. Seems like great stuff for the money!
The PE terminals are getting rare these days. Even the big players like Rohde & Schwarz discard them. I think this is not a good move. I have several power supplies (each one for a different task) and if I want to couple some voltages to a common point, then I use the PE terminal.
This way I can use my high current power supply in conjunction with my low current dual power supply, both sharing a common ground this way. Sure I can also couple them without a PE terminal using a longer wire but actually I like shorter wires that doesn't take away any space on my desk nor contribute to a even bigger ratsnest.
What I'm missing on your review is the line input PE to case connection, which is in my opinion the most important connection.
That’s great feedback BeamFinder, and I agree the PE should always be added for optional use. When I started showing the tear down I tried to show the connection from input ground to case. I ended up moving faster cause I thought the video was getting long;)
@@KissAnalog You're right, somehow I missed this detail
Thanks BeamFinder - always good to ask - as I miss things all the time;)
Here’s the new video: ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
this product seems to be out of stock or production. Got any other recommendations?
Thank you! Try this link: kaiweets.com?sca_ref=1269738.glN6S8aePH
I have a longwei 10a 30v . I am not getting any voltage. What could be wrong?
Make sure the fuse or breaker is good. If the voltage shows that it can be raised, make sure that min current limit is not set too low. Even without a load the current level needs to be set above min. Let us know if that helps. Thank you for asking.
Oh, I'm such a beginner, would you be able to make a video on what you did to reduce the high-frequency noise. I'll do the same thing. thanks
I was working on this for the Kaiweets video I just did, but I thought it would be too long, so I decided to make it it's own video;) Thanks for asking!
@@KissAnalog Awesome ;) thank you. Looking forward to it as usual! 🖖
Did you make a video on how to reduce the high frequency? Can't find it.
Yes here it is: ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
on the internet page on amazon it says ou need to sitch between 120v input and 230v input. is there a switch or is the power supply doing it automatic?
That is a great Question! I see where it says that there is a switch, but it is not on the outside of the unit in back. I planned to do a follow up video showing an improvement and also showing more capabilities but now I'll add to that a look inside (while I show the improvement that I will make) to see if there is a switch or easy way to configure it for 230/220 VAC. Thanks for asking!
Very good videos and talk❤norway
Thanks so much! Great to hear from friends in Norway!
I wish they would make a power supply that has LED readouts for voltage, current and resistance (calculated). I don't need to know the wattage all that badly.
That would be cool:)
Can you do a review of the power supply FNIRSI 6006L ? Its a new product.
That looks like a great PS for the money. I'll see if I can get one;) Thanks!
Hi did you made the capacitor mod to the supply?
Not yet. I did play with it but had to get other videos out. I'll get back to that soon;)
Hi there
I just watch this video and the other one about Kaiweets psu again. I have three of the same supply. Kaiweets is only a trading company, and they don't manufacture anything themself. These psu are made by Wanptek. I don't understand, are there any reason not to leave the film capacitor on for ever. I also have a Handskit combined Rework solder station and Bench top psu, and that has a bit more ripple than the WanpTek's. I am temped to mount the filter cap inside, should I do that?
Btw.. Habotest is the manufacture of the Kaiweets meters. I have been selling Habotest meters for three years, and they have become rather expensive compared to Kaiweets the last two years
😄 maybee it is because Kaiweets gets all the publicity 🙂
One last thing. Can you make a test of a lowcost variable AC power supply, or AC power source as Aliexpress calls them. These AC psu, are they real AC power that can run all AC things, or are they something like a triac thing. I cant find a cheap model, but only this one www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001344455013.html?spm=a2g0s.8937518.0.0.7bce2e0epsvFuQ
Keep up the good work..
Claus, denmark
Thanks for the great questions Claus! I think Kaiweets has been doing a great job and somehow getting great prices. BTW you can get 15% off at their website by using my code KA15. I am going to review the Wanptek power supply. I really like it and the size is smaller than this one. Use this link then use the code KA15 to get the 15% discount - even if it is on sale it works;) kaiweets.com/products/wanptek-aps
The AC power supply looks great - I'd love to get one to review. ;)
Hey would like to know your thoughts on the hanmetek HM310....p/s
I was looking at those and they were going to send me one but then it got lost. I'll look into the spec. I might have another great option...I'm looking into it now.
can u make another video on longevity of this powersupply
Thanks for the idea! I do plan to do a follow up on this PS, so I'll see if I can address that;) Thanks again!
Hi, would it be possible to increase range of ammeter to show mA?
If your ammeter is a clamp-on type, yes you can put a turn or more to double or more the current reading. If it is a digital multimeter that runs current through it - that might be harder to get more resolution. Is that what you were asking? I appreciate the question;)
@@KissAnalog Thanks for the fast reply, what i meant was the 4 digit current display of the power supply. I have a similar one like the Kaiweets in the video and mine has also some potis inside, but i have no clue what they are for. I also have Amps measuring with dot 2 digits.
I think the pots are for adjusting the current and voltage readings. Here’s a new video showing how to reduce the noise:). ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
36:29 That Bridge rectifier seems to be a litle bit drunk, he's totally attracted to the current sense transformer :-)
Bjorn V Good eye! It seems like it was done on purpose, but I don’t know why.
@@KissAnalog It must be done on purpose since my Longwei is also drunk.
Here’s a new video: ua-cam.com/video/idf8nRw19DM/v-deo.html
I actually just bought this power supply after watching your video. Question about that film cap, is that ran in line with the positive, or is it crossed? Also, what is the specks on the film cap? Thank you :)
Can you prefer me some low cost variable ac power source
Sir,can you get for me sencore 'z' meter for testing capacitors and induction.I can see that unit you have. second hand unit OK if in good condition.thanks.
I can see if I can find you one. Is there a particular reason you prefer Sencore?
@@KissAnalog Once I had most of the testing equipments. You just name it.more than 150,000 Malaysia ringgit worth of equipments. All gone 2004 tsunami. Almost fifty years.my house gone and family death.
@@KissAnalog Once I had most of the testing equipments. You just name it.more than 150,000 Malaysia ringgit worth of equipments. All gone 2004 tsunami. Almost fifty years.my house gone and family death.thanks
@@sugumaranperiasamy7101 Jesus. Not fun at all.
Sorry to hear that!
Normally is a 5a enough or do I need 10a
That really depends on what you are doing, but 10 Amps does meet a lot of my jobs.
What's the output ripple like do you know dc-ac is it good
I think it looks pretty good for a switcher, but a small capacitor really helps clean it up. Thanks for the great question.
@@KissAnalog yeah you put a 1uF capacitor on the output?
yes, I think I'll add it permanently, but I'm going to probably do a video update when I find just the right fix. The 1 uF seemed great. I might also experiment with a ferrite core wrapped around the output leads internally if that helps with high frequency. Maybe just twisting the leads...
@@KissAnalog I can't find it in the video. What ripple did you find? The marketing information on Amazon says Ripple & noise : ≤20mV r.m.s That seems pretty low, but did you find the ripple is actually worse and does not meet the stated specification?
Sorry I haven’t done the video update yet. I’ll try to get to that soon.
Is it still working?
It sure is;)
can u do a load test to see how the voltage and current hold up?
Thanks for the request! I did test the leads provided at full power, but yes I can do more testing:) I’ve been happy with these power supplies!
Hmm it would be interesting to know the voltage to earth from that PSU
Hi Fred. Do you mean output voltage to protective earth ground? It is a floating output that you can tie to earth ground if you like. Is that what you mean?
What I don't understand is why computer power supplies can have such low noise and ripple, but these things ripple is huge compared to computer PSU. Why is that? I mean, you can get a clean computer PSU for under 80 bucks. I know computer supplies are max 12V, and not 30V, but why do these SPS have to have so much ripple? The Corsair RM650X, for example, only has 10.3mV Ripple @ 100% Load (as measured by Tom's Hardware).
Great question! Thank you! First, at max power is the best and easiest way to get a great measurement. The worst is at a low power where there’s no load to reduce the noise. A variable output with variable loads is a completely different game;)
@@KissAnalog Hey Eddie, thanks for the reply. Tom's shows the Corasair RM650x @ 3.6mV at 10% load. The worst ripple they got from 10%-100% ( in 10% increments) was the 110% power number, which was 11.6mV. You can see the chart if you search for "Tom's Corsair RM650x" on the page "ripple measurements (It would be interesting to see your ideas behind those readings). Another thing I don't understand is how Kaiweets can publish ripple specs that state: "Current Ripple & noise : ≤20mV r.m.s". Seriously, that must be some sort of magic measurement, for sure, because it has nothing to do with real world ripple, as you have shown.
Show us what USB output looks like, please.
Ok I should have looked at that - thanks!
If you are not using your power supplies and the fan noise is annoying you, maybe switch them off?
John Hind Sorry about that John, I normally do, but there’s a lot to think about making these videos and sometimes I forget something. Sorry about that.
The more components you have the more chances one of them will go bad in the future. I hate these noisy switching PSU. Give me a linear one over this any day.
Thanks and I agree, every part adds to the reliability risk assessment. But having enough parts to keep overall stress levels down is also important. The Switching noise does have to be felt with but so many PS are switchers these days;) A well built linear is nice!
They send it to you for free so you give a good review on it. We don't take these reviews seriously of course.
You must think my time is free. I take all the time and years that I have been doing this seriously. These free items I give away - or many of them.
Most of these reviews I do only for the viewer - but occasionally I get something that I want on my bench. If you see it on my bench - that should mean something. I’d rather be doing other ‘design’ type videos - but viewers like reviews - so I take them seriously.
So, watch the review without sound - see what it does and how it works - and look at the inside build. Without sound - you can trust your own eyes.
I don’t accept half the stuff that I am offered. I do my research - and at times I get something that I don’t show. I think I will show these items though - but I’ll point out what doesn’t impress me.
The reviews that are hard to trust are the ones that are sponsored where the reviewer is paid to do the review. I don’t show the vendor the video before I publish - and all I am asked to do is use their name in the video.
On sale now at Amazon, about $76 with prime. May 27, 2021
Thanks for the heads up. I'm including a link for anyone interested: amzn.to/2Tfcs4a
Can't find a good place to buy one now. Amazon is the one place I'll never buy anything off, with all the scams going on.
What is a kern?
Is that something I said?
The habotest is rebranded as at least 10 different brands with wildly varying prices lol
Thanks Joey! I'm happy that they keep the 118 number in many of the brands;) It is a solid meter at such a great price.
@@KissAnalog definitely, I have the zotek version kicking around somewhere. That amprobe I was telling you about is apart on my bench. The needle works and the clamp has continuity so I'm gonna fix it hopefully. I should've tested it earlier but I paid like 3 dollars for it haha. I was using my owon b35+ today and a part of cringed at just paying 150 for the ut61e+ haha. You should do a thing on making your own leads for different purposes. Like what type and gauge should be used for a psu and how to diy better dmm probes. I've been researching it but you never know if the wire you order is going to be real silicone and if the strands are real untinned copper. Amazon is hopeless for untinned stranded and hardware stores don't sell high end wire. My brother in law will only sell good ptfe wire by the spool for like 2500 beans lol
Lot of noise (ripple) in that PWM power supply, i'd prefer the other one linear Dc power supply less current but better current
Thanks for this feedback! I do plan to do a video showing how to clean this up. It is such a low cost PS and has been great on my bench - so I still like it;)
Sometimes dry joints too
Thanks!
I tought you will test 10 amps at 300wats not 10w!
I tested the leads that came with it at 10 amps to see if they overheated. I think they dissipated about 10 Watts. Is this the test you are referring to? Didn’t you think that was worthwhile. I also got near max power before that. Sorry I missed the test that you wanted, but not sure what the problem is.
@@KissAnalog ok i bought two branded
Nice-Power the one with watts display and the other one with 10 turns voltage potentiometer and both deliver 300 watts with no problem , i tested with a big 3 ohm /1000 watts resistor made from heating resistor wire. All I can say this power source ,it can't been be build better than that, its very nice and the price its insane cheap for what it contain inside.
Thank you for this great feedback!
But maximum USB output current is fake on this device - voltage out low.
Thanks Rolandas! I haven't tested this yet. I'll do a follow up on this power supply;)
Its definitely programmable
Thank you!
You look like you could be James Hetfield's brother!
LOL, I get that from time to time;)
I have that and it's garbage. It can't go over 4 amps and that's with the psu struggling. I have one from longwei that is identical except for the color. Same guts too
Wow Joey - mine seems to work fine;)
@@KissAnalog yeah man. It's crazy. Sorry for the foolishness man. Had a rough patch.
@@KissAnalog I have that tektronix tds2002c. It's awesome man. Never used except when he turned it on after purchase then again before our trade. He gave me a 30 pound 8 amp isolation transformer.
First time I ever gave one of your videos a thumbs down and thought I owed you an explanation. It goes completely off the rails at 16:27. The FLIR (expensive, high resolution) meter is reading seriously low compared to the PSU readout. You do not notice this until 19:40 when you bring in a cheapo low res meter and measure at the PSU output terminals getting a much closer reading. You correctly diagnose the problem as voltage drop over the inadequate test leads supplied with the PSU. Now for some unexplained reason you throw out the good meter and use the cheap one for the rest of the video, continuing to use the inadequate test leads and probing the voltage at the load end! Unsurprisingly the cheap meter reads just as low as the good one had. Result - you never properly test the accuracy of the PSU!
John Hind I appreciate the feedback. I do try to improve my production of these videos, and I hope I am. After all, this hobby does cost me a lot in time and money away from my actual job and family, but most hobbies do. I should have used a second meter showing the voltage right at the terminals. Actually the problem with the reading being so low was a bad connection that I did report just before I also reported a 0.1 V drop due to the leads. After that at the same 2 Amps the meter was solid showing 0.1 V drop. I am using the leads that came with it and actually were not too bad. I meant to show that the leads are important and you do get a drop because of the leads. I show the max current thru these leads later in the video and how hot they get. I should have explained this better, but I did suggest bigger leads, and that these were just the ones that came with it. Thanks again for taking your time to explain the hit on the video.
Hi Eddie, fantastic review. Thank you 🙏 😊
CE = Cavet Emptor
Thanks!
CE = CAVEAT EMPTOR
Thank you!
This problem cook up due to components weak.
Do you mean bad components or wrong value?
@@KissAnalog weak components
Good Morning Sir.. Can You Give Me Extra Power Supply. Im From Philippines
Thanks for asking. This channel cost me a lot to run. I do get some free items, but I buy a lot more. This is a small channel still and I have sent items to other countries but it just cost too much. When my channel gets bigger, maybe I will have some money to be able to do this. Sorry - but maybe some day;)
not sure what these gizmos do but I know if I have a few of these machines on my bench and some random wires I will probably get a pay rise. Now slow down on the terminology. It's big words for a small mind. Teach me the basic things to say to impress my boss and more importantly the chicks.
LOL - Gotcha!
I was looking for a cheap switching power supply my last one was a PEVONO PS305H The power lead started melting when they were pushed to their MAX wattage had to make my own heavy duty. It died after 28 days had it replaced and the next new one died in six months. My three linear Power supplies are all over 30 years old BK Precision 1651, Hewlett-Packard 6205C, Acopian A24H850, still working like new never had a problem.
I’ve see some reviewed on UA-cam and the look a bit shoddy. This one seems great so far. Thanks for sharing that great info!