Common knowledge for those who grew up with burning wood or coal. Former volunteer fireman. Went to many fires caused by poorly installed fire places or wood stoves. Great Video...
Great advice. I'd also like to see more on heat distribution and capturing the heat that rises to move that around away from the ceiling directly above as well.
Thank you! I grew up with a family of chimney sweeps and have a lot of knowledge regarding safety, stoves, and maintenance, but I am planning on having a stove installed in a van build. I am going to have it done by pros for the certification from the sweep/and safety. This really helps me to know and have more input on this installation. I would love to find the weight of the cement board and porcelain tile. It will be a tiny freestanding. I will build everything else around the stove. Thanks again.
Out of all the videos on this on youtube, I swear this is the only wall I've seen done as correctly as I've tried to understand the regulations. Most just slap this against a wall with the concrete board. I think the only other option would be to attach this right to the wall disregarding the 1" but then have a 1" offset standard style metal shield/panel. You also pointed out my concern with an all brick setup. I read somewhere it needs to be 3.5" in thickness to have enough lets say thermal sponge effect to reduce worry. Growing up we had a brick setup in our basement with an earth stove and I know there is zero air gap on that from when it was built in the 60s. We have a large JA Roby Cuisenere cookstove to install and just began looking at tile options last night so I'm glad to have seen this. I don't expect you to have the answer but my only question is, if they're worried about embers and things like that then what should we do about that 1" gap at the bottom above the hearth. Is that not a fire hazard area also? Should we not for example have a 1" square stone offset in front of that gap by an inch so an ember would have to go bouncing up over something and then down in the crack This is why this is all so confusing.
I apologize for just now seeing your complete comment. I didn’t expand what you wrote to see that you had a question. The air gap at the bottom is a very important part of maintaining good air flow for cooling the wall. My focus for embers is to try to have the door opening away from the wall and have plenty of noncombustible flooring to catch the embers. I also removed the baseboard material near that air gap leaving mainly sheet rock. The offset brick idea you have sounds good as well. Thanks for the question!
@EverythingHomestead not a problem! We ended up having a local place come stone everything for us based on timing after I built the hearth base. I was making things over complicated. Since I had already planned required distance they went right to the wall. We have the largest hearth theyve done as it is just under 5x8 since a wood cookstove sits on it
I think the wood rack is a bit close. I’d put a shield on the close side of the rack. And much less wood. Only 12 hrs worth close by. With a second store of wood elsewhere.
Great job but I'm just going to stack some bricks about an inch off the wall going to leave some openings at the bottom so cold air can get in and warm air flow out of the top... quick and simple till I can tile something fancy
@@tlmtrudy3187 I don’t know if the way I did it was the best or not. I predrilled the spacers and then sank the screw through the cement board and into the spacers, so the screw was in just enough to hold the spacer, before applying it all to the wall. Took some careful measurements so I still hit the studs when I leaned it on the wall.
Just pieces of 2”x2” cement board. I pre-drilled so my screw didn’t crack them when fastened to the wall. Long strips wouldn’t allow the airflow that I was looking for.
Common knowledge for those who grew up with burning wood or coal. Former volunteer fireman. Went to many fires caused by poorly installed fire places or wood stoves. Great Video...
Great advice. I'd also like to see more on heat distribution and capturing the heat that rises to move that around away from the ceiling directly above as well.
I just put out a video that may help. Thanks for watching!
Great job and can never overbuild when it comes to fire/heat in your house. The gap is the key to allow airflow and not direct contact to the wall.
Thank you! I grew up with a family of chimney sweeps and have a lot of knowledge regarding safety, stoves, and maintenance, but I am planning on having a stove installed in a van build. I am going to have it done by pros for the certification from the sweep/and safety. This really helps me to know and have more input on this installation. I would love to find the weight of the cement board and porcelain tile. It will be a tiny freestanding. I will build everything else around the stove. Thanks again.
Out of all the videos on this on youtube, I swear this is the only wall I've seen done as correctly as I've tried to understand the regulations. Most just slap this against a wall with the concrete board. I think the only other option would be to attach this right to the wall disregarding the 1" but then have a 1" offset standard style metal shield/panel. You also pointed out my concern with an all brick setup. I read somewhere it needs to be 3.5" in thickness to have enough lets say thermal sponge effect to reduce worry. Growing up we had a brick setup in our basement with an earth stove and I know there is zero air gap on that from when it was built in the 60s.
We have a large JA Roby Cuisenere cookstove to install and just began looking at tile options last night so I'm glad to have seen this.
I don't expect you to have the answer but my only question is, if they're worried about embers and things like that then what should we do about that 1" gap at the bottom above the hearth. Is that not a fire hazard area also? Should we not for example have a 1" square stone offset in front of that gap by an inch so an ember would have to go bouncing up over something and then down in the crack This is why this is all so confusing.
I apologize for just now seeing your complete comment. I didn’t expand what you wrote to see that you had a question. The air gap at the bottom is a very important part of maintaining good air flow for cooling the wall. My focus for embers is to try to have the door opening away from the wall and have plenty of noncombustible flooring to catch the embers. I also removed the baseboard material near that air gap leaving mainly sheet rock. The offset brick idea you have sounds good as well. Thanks for the question!
@EverythingHomestead not a problem! We ended up having a local place come stone everything for us based on timing after I built the hearth base. I was making things over complicated. Since I had already planned required distance they went right to the wall. We have the largest hearth theyve done as it is just under 5x8 since a wood cookstove sits on it
Thanks. I got a baby girl at home so I'll do whatever it takes to make the wood stove a tad bit safer.
Very Good Information, Thank You.
Great info!
I think the wood rack is a bit close. I’d put a shield on the close side of the rack. And much less wood. Only 12 hrs worth close by. With a second store of wood elsewhere.
pretty awesome great job no doubt
Great job but I'm just going to stack some bricks about an inch off the wall going to leave some openings at the bottom so cold air can get in and warm air flow out of the top... quick and simple till I can tile something fancy
Maybe I missed this part bur did you screw in your spacers to the wall first and then screw the cement board to the spacers ? Thanks
@@tlmtrudy3187 I don’t know if the way I did it was the best or not. I predrilled the spacers and then sank the screw through the cement board and into the spacers, so the screw was in just enough to hold the spacer, before applying it all to the wall. Took some careful measurements so I still hit the studs when I leaned it on the wall.
Thanks for this, really helped 👍🏻
Did you use a heat resistant adhesive and grout or were they just the regular kind?
Good advice ty
I had pre made concrete hearth put on the back and under the stove !
2 45's allow the smoke to run smoother
Great information. Are the cement board spacers just 'pucks' or full length or long strips?
Just pieces of 2”x2” cement board. I pre-drilled so my screw didn’t crack them when fastened to the wall. Long strips wouldn’t allow the airflow that I was looking for.
Excellent - thanks for that tip.
@@EverythingHomestead
What kind grout and mortar did you use? Refractory Cement!
I used the usual grout and mortar recommended for wall tile application. I apologize for not remembering the brand name I used.