The early models had issues with cracking and breaking during winter months.Love the honest and direct review.Fantastic no BS response.Had friends in Mongolia complaining about this but the maker replaced it with a new one.
When you said early models, are you referring to this carbon version (but during initial launch) or the full nylon version (that's been around for 5 years)?
ET-4 to be specific the limbs broke off completely. A friend of mine (Instructor)had a few ET-4 that he used for his beginners horse back archery course to be used by his students in Ulaanbaatar,Mongolia.The 4 broken bows were replaced by the Manufacturer.I do not know if the replacement bows were better or not.Also he had to wait a long time before he received them. Noticed later the majority of the photos from his school the bows were replaced by Alibow.
@@abeldasilva9368 yes, the ET4 version has issues. The original 18#, which actually reads 15# on my scale is ok, at least I got several years of worth. But the later version which attempts to increase the poundage, claimed 30# but I only get 22# on my scale. This heavier version is plagued with issues, could break within 1-2 weeks of use. The manufacturer didn't study the bow enough, and instead hoping that a different material will change the fate of the same design. The initial design is already flawed.
Like you say, it is probably the heavy tips. I am curious how much they actually weigh, maybe you could cut off the tips on the non-functioning one and weigh them? also look inside to see if they are hollow or not, or if they are even full carbon or carbon-plastic / carbon-fiberglass.
Working tips have less tip mass, but due to more complicated bending profile, it is more difficult to achieve full synchronization of the two limbs, this result in more vibration. For least shock and vibration, it would seem that small rigid tip works best. The rigid tips means that the limbs are easier to achieve good sync, while small & thin profile also reduces air drag and mass. The performance is better than a large rigid tip, and a full working tip.
I never thought of airdrag being a factor for bow performance. I thought air resistance on moving limbs is such a small factor that is not measurable. I know it exist but is that even observable to say definitively yes that bow performs 1 fps faster because the tips are more narrow!
@@JonWickkk-cn1iv I believe it matters but there's no good way to prove. At the speed which the limbs are swinging, the drag would definitely account to a few percent because drag is velocity squared. The surface area of the working tip is usually double to triple compared to rigid siyahs.
I thought i would go with this bow because i like the idea of a takedown bow. I ended up buying af turkish que yue/buck trail flint/daylite ottoman. At least there is no handshock at 30#. Do you know who really makes that bow?
@@bambooarchery thank you. 👍 I am quite happy with this cheap bow. Is the delamination people mention mostly due to bad stringing of the bow and shooting too light arrows or are these cheap af bows poorly made? It looks ok to me except for the arrow pass.
@@markod7662 a mix of various reasons. Case-to-case basis, you have to analyze each breakage case separately. Sometimes the bow even breaks without anyone touching the bow.
I would like to tell you that I have this bow but being a complete novice at archery I cannot comment on performance. However, I did come up with a very successful remedy for the handle which is both very comfortable and stable (no slipping) but still allows for takedown and reassembly very easily. It is one piece, not cut in the middle. Sleeves are therefore not at all useless. If however you did not want to takedown the sleeves can still be used...one on each end meeting in the middle.
I guess you could glue each side to the middle piece and make it a 1 piece bow. Use silicon caulking or something similar in the handle to help with vibration.. I would rather have it shoot well vs be able to take it apart and not enjoying the bow.
Please look under reply to @17yearold about the handle issue. I was able to solve it and perfect for me. I did not intend to comment there but I did by accident.
The early models had issues with cracking and breaking during winter months.Love the honest and direct review.Fantastic no BS response.Had friends in Mongolia complaining about this but the maker replaced it with a new one.
When you said early models, are you referring to this carbon version (but during initial launch) or the full nylon version (that's been around for 5 years)?
ET-4 to be specific the limbs broke off completely. A friend of mine (Instructor)had a few ET-4 that he used for his beginners horse back archery course to be used by his students in Ulaanbaatar,Mongolia.The 4 broken bows were replaced by the Manufacturer.I do not know if the replacement bows were better or not.Also he had to wait a long time before he received them. Noticed later the majority of the photos from his school the bows were replaced by Alibow.
@@abeldasilva9368 yes, the ET4 version has issues. The original 18#, which actually reads 15# on my scale is ok, at least I got several years of worth. But the later version which attempts to increase the poundage, claimed 30# but I only get 22# on my scale. This heavier version is plagued with issues, could break within 1-2 weeks of use. The manufacturer didn't study the bow enough, and instead hoping that a different material will change the fate of the same design. The initial design is already flawed.
Like you say, it is probably the heavy tips. I am curious how much they actually weigh, maybe you could cut off the tips on the non-functioning one and weigh them? also look inside to see if they are hollow or not, or if they are even full carbon or carbon-plastic / carbon-fiberglass.
Solid, definitely solid inside. Bow is very hefty. Lots of mass.
Im going to assuming a bow with all bending limbs would have less handshock as a bow such as this with large stiff parts.
Working tips have less tip mass, but due to more complicated bending profile, it is more difficult to achieve full synchronization of the two limbs, this result in more vibration. For least shock and vibration, it would seem that small rigid tip works best. The rigid tips means that the limbs are easier to achieve good sync, while small & thin profile also reduces air drag and mass. The performance is better than a large rigid tip, and a full working tip.
I never thought of airdrag being a factor for bow performance. I thought air resistance on moving limbs is such a small factor that is not measurable. I know it exist but is that even observable to say definitively yes that bow performs 1 fps faster because the tips are more narrow!
@@JonWickkk-cn1iv I believe it matters but there's no good way to prove. At the speed which the limbs are swinging, the drag would definitely account to a few percent because drag is velocity squared. The surface area of the working tip is usually double to triple compared to rigid siyahs.
@@bambooarchery Maybe a bow should be sent to ISS to do that test
I thought i would go with this bow because i like the idea of a takedown bow. I ended up buying af turkish que yue/buck trail flint/daylite ottoman. At least there is no handshock at 30#. Do you know who really makes that bow?
AF makes them. The others are just rebranding/resellers.
@@bambooarchery thank you. 👍 I am quite happy with this cheap bow. Is the delamination people mention mostly due to bad stringing of the bow and shooting too light arrows or are these cheap af bows poorly made? It looks ok to me except for the arrow pass.
@@markod7662 a mix of various reasons. Case-to-case basis, you have to analyze each breakage case separately. Sometimes the bow even breaks without anyone touching the bow.
@@bambooarchery yes, i understand. wood is a natural product and quality can vary. 👍 Thanks
I recommend Air Conditioning
I don't understand
@@bambooarchery Your sweating in every video so i recommend installing air conditioning😉
@@17yearoldwarbowarcher I'm not sweating. I have glossy skin 🤣
I would like to tell you that I have this bow but being a complete novice at archery I cannot comment on performance.
However, I did come up with a very successful remedy for the handle which is both very comfortable and stable (no slipping) but still allows for takedown and reassembly very easily. It is one piece, not cut in the middle.
Sleeves are therefore not at all useless.
If however you did not want to takedown the sleeves can still be used...one on each end meeting in the middle.
I guess you could glue each side to the middle piece and make it a 1 piece bow. Use silicon caulking or something similar in the handle to help with vibration.. I would rather have it shoot well vs be able to take it apart and not enjoying the bow.
Please look under reply to @17yearold about the handle issue. I was able to solve it and perfect for me.
I did not intend to comment there but I did by accident.
Can you WhatsApp me the photo of your solution +60122669631. Sometimes accidents create interesting solution.
Yes, happy to do that.
Would you tell me what is speed of this bow? (Including arrow weight, draw length)
Thank you.
Watch Armin's video for that. I won't be wasting more time on this model.