Interesting and clear instructions, thank you. A thought for you: sometimes, in dealing with clothing construction, a stronger seam is not always the better option. A popped seam is a lot easier to repair than ripped fabric, for instance.
When i mark thick fabrics, i put soup tins on the paper to hold the pattern in place instead of pins, which dont let the wool lay flat, it saves a bit of time too!
Is there a trick at all to finding 100% wool that is actually historically accurate? I have no local source so I have to go online to buy, but no matter how much I try to search for Wool, everything has names tacked on, like “felt” or “suiting”, etc. It’s so confusing.
Great with measurements of hood. Would be great idea to add information in writing regarding what quality/weight Sqm of textile material and what thread you are using. Can´t really hear what you say when you mention thread as you clip it and put scissors on table..
My understanding of the pattern, is that the long rectangular piece is actually supposed to be a big square instead. That way, instead of folding the top of the hood, the fold will become the front instead. You then have to cut a hole in the big square for the face, leaving a few centimeters for the forehead and also for the neck. The front fold of the fabric strengthens the neck part, where the small square gore is put in. If I remember correctly, the size of the two gores are also different sizes. Don't forget to add the "mohawk", haha! Lovely hood though!
Cutting a hole for the face sounds like a brilliant idea. Should make for a much tighter fit around the face, especially for the forehead which is pretty much unprotected with this pattern!
@@susanp.collins7834I'm sorry, what? Why is my answer confusing? I just mentioned that the pattern of the original source is not a rectangular, but a square. Not sure what is wrong with giving constructive criticism or helping other reenactors making historical accurate clothing. If anyone want to make this pattern in the video, it is "based" on the skjoldhamn hood, giving the same shape, but its still modified to make the fold different. This is totally fine, but saying it IS the correct way of constructing skjoldhamn is actually wrong. You can make it however you want, true to the source or not. I tweak clothing patterns all the time.
Amber Howard I think it’s called tailor’s chalk. I got them in triangular pieces with ”sharp” edges allowing for detailed marks. Comes off easy by just wrinkling and lightly brushing the fabric.
Finally an instructional video that shows ALL the steps. Thanks a lot. Loving it
And no Insane Jangling in the background. There is a bit of background noise but I can live with that.
you have a problem..go and see someone about it...
Interesting and clear instructions, thank you.
A thought for you: sometimes, in dealing with clothing construction, a stronger seam is not always the better option. A popped seam is a lot easier to repair than ripped fabric, for instance.
Unless you are making a hammock. A popped seam on a hammock means a torn hammock and a night without a proper sleep setup if you're in the woods.
@@Moostery which is why I specified clothing construction.
Thank you
When i mark thick fabrics, i put soup tins on the paper to hold the pattern in place instead of pins, which dont let the wool lay flat, it saves a bit of time too!
I use that method when working on leather but I´ll definitely try it next time I work with wool, thank you!
Is there a trick at all to finding 100% wool that is actually historically accurate? I have no local source so I have to go online to buy, but no matter how much I try to search for Wool, everything has names tacked on, like “felt” or “suiting”, etc. It’s so confusing.
Thank you so very much
Takk!
How did you cut your paper squares so straight?
Great with measurements of hood. Would be great idea to add information in writing regarding what quality/weight Sqm of textile material and what thread you are using. Can´t really hear what you say when you mention thread as you clip it and put scissors on table..
Sheesh! By the way you lay it out you can almost see how to do it!
My understanding of the pattern, is that the long rectangular piece is actually supposed to be a big square instead. That way, instead of folding the top of the hood, the fold will become the front instead. You then have to cut a hole in the big square for the face, leaving a few centimeters for the forehead and also for the neck. The front fold of the fabric strengthens the neck part, where the small square gore is put in. If I remember correctly, the size of the two gores are also different sizes. Don't forget to add the "mohawk", haha!
Lovely hood though!
Cutting a hole for the face sounds like a brilliant idea. Should make for a much tighter fit around the face, especially for the forehead which is pretty much unprotected with this pattern!
Please don't confuse the issue - the man is doing just great!
@@susanp.collins7834I'm sorry, what? Why is my answer confusing? I just mentioned that the pattern of the original source is not a rectangular, but a square. Not sure what is wrong with giving constructive criticism or helping other reenactors making historical accurate clothing. If anyone want to make this pattern in the video, it is "based" on the skjoldhamn hood, giving the same shape, but its still modified to make the fold different. This is totally fine, but saying it IS the correct way of constructing skjoldhamn is actually wrong. You can make it however you want, true to the source or not. I tweak clothing patterns all the time.
What are you using to mark your fabric?
Amber Howard I think it’s called tailor’s chalk. I got them in triangular pieces with ”sharp” edges allowing for detailed marks. Comes off easy by just wrinkling and lightly brushing the fabric.
part 2 ?
Just R Thank you for asking, I’m working on part two this week :)
Just R Part 2 is now uploaded!
Part 2 man were she at
CREATIVE NATION Part 2 is now uploaded!
Skål brother
And your fabric is single layer.