I was struggling to get the length correct on my marker duke bindings, I didn't realise there was a feature that the screw becomes flush so this video was very helpful thanks 🙏🙏
Set forward pressure first with boot in binding. Open and close several times to check FP is correct. Then with boot in binding pull boot back to make sure toe lug is against top of toe piece. Sliding paper is ok only for Marker Binding with multi sole toe. ISO 5355 and ISO 9523. Other Marker bindings with adjustible ISO 5355 toe require .5 mm clearance. Forward pressure adjust is different on Solomon Atomic Look Rossignol Tyrolia bindings. Also different if it is a system and not a flat mount. Also very critical is release setting which should be checked with a torque testing tool to be sure binding spring and boot sole release and correct value. Have that done at a ski shop. It cost about $20 for adj and release check.
As a ski tech, I totally agree with this comment! Especially with Marker bindings! Test, test, and re-test. The forward pressure will shift significantly with an adjustment to the springs.
The only thing I can ad is that most ski bindings I have seen the star shaped fasteners are posi-drive or philips. That screw driver he has could strip the fasteners as it appears to be a Reed and Prince (pointed and will bottom out in the hole) the first two mentioned are blunt so the star can engage better.
I've set up the same bindings exactly in this way, as recommended by Marker, with a pair of alpine ski boots Fischer RC4 at DIN 6 ,I'm 80 Kg and good skier so very light setting. Then I broke my acl simply because the bindings didn't open properly, I tested again at home on the bench and I've found that the boot remained completely blocked in to the bindings requiring an enormous pressure to disengage due to the contact of the the boot sole with the anterior plaque between the clamps of the binding itself, It doesn't happen with AT bindings, I've tried to release the forward pressure of the binding by elongating a little bit but the posterior screw was not in the correct position and the boot was not stable. Soit seems that there is a problem using these bindings with race alpine boots.
This is great! Why do shops charge so much for this? You made this so easy and was great to find a video explaining the riser adjustment under the ball of the foot.
probably because a lot of people know like he says the setting is the difference between too loose and a sloppy ride or too tight and messing up a knee if the boot doesn't give way in a fall, but if you're comfortable with taking that liability, then go for it. I'm going to but don't blame people who don't and would rather let the pros do it
I'm skiing on Volkl RTM 80 with the Marker PT Wide Ride bindings. I just bought a new pair of boots and I can't figure out how to lower the front sliding plate that the boot sits on. It is just a little too high as the paper rips when I have the boot mounted on the binding. I can't find any screw in the front or on top that would allow me to adjust the height of this sliding plate mechanism. Do you have any knowledge about this binding? I had no problem adjusting the length and DIN settings.
Always refer to the tech manual for the binding. Some adjust relatively easily, but others (Look Pivot) have very little adjustment range once they're mounted. Also, if you're looking at this to save $20-$30 at the shop, then go to the shop because your binding may no longer be indemnified. I mean really, what's your knee worth?
I hear what you're saying, but indemnification just means the shop is covered under the manufacturer's insurance/legal umbrella, no? It offers you zero direct protection from injury. It just means the shop (professional) will work on your binding, which MAY offer you better service than you can do at home. If they do a better job than you, then yes, your knee is safer.
@@misterfunnybones Ha! They're boots. I bet they'd still be fine. Anyways, I just remounted, adjusted, and skied on some 20yo Markers bindings. They functioned flawlessly. I don't go crazy with I high DIN settings, and I'm not an aggressive skier, so I'm not worried.
@@Keifsanderson Yes, they pair nicely with my leather-strap spring-cable GEZE bindings. No need for a torque test, because my knee & ankle will test everything when the time comes...
I have a demo bindings and my heel pressure indicator is not adjusting. It feels like the thread of the screw is not engaged. Fixable or buy new bindings. Any advice? Link?
i am thinking about making one about tech bindings soon! But it probobly will be uploaded on my other channel (ua-cam.com/users/4freeskier) since i switched to english there too! So make sure to subscribe :)
Thanks for the video. It is very helpful! I have a Look spx 10 binding but I cannot find the screw to let the binding move. Could you please help me with this? Thanks
How do you figure out what size bindings you have/ need? I’m wanting to buy a new pair online on Cyber Monday that will fit my existing boots. I haven’t been able to find a size marked on the binding. Please help!
Look at the side of the boot you already have that has clicked into the binding and look for a small number that will say something along the lines of 315mm or something like that. Then when you're searching online you can find other boots of the same sole length. Instead of accommodating for that though, you could just take your skis down to the ski shop and pay for them to remount them to fit your new ski boots.
For the AFD setting, I noticed in one example you were pushing down on the boot and others you weren't, which makes a difference in how easily you can pull the paper out. Which is correct, push the boot or leave it loose?
You do not push down on the boot when checking with the paper. The only time he pushed down on he boot was to simulate too much pressure and rip the paper. When he was showing you the correct adjustment he was not touching the boot.
I am trying to adjust the front plate on my grandson's marker 4.5 binding.How you adjust this with out an exposed screw? I had not problem adjust the length or the dins.
I have a toe ski binding which is hinged in the center . With my boot in place the toe hinge is slightly opened . I’m guessing this is okay as long as din keeps it from opening further ?
How do I adjust the AFD plate under toe of boot on Marker M900 EPS bindings? The plate is fixed and I can't slide a piece of paper as recommended without tearing.
These are alpine bindings right? you should use them with a alpine sole (almost every ski boot for the slopes has certified alpine soles). They should work fine with that binding.
Hallo wo finde ich deine Videos auf Deutsch. Ich lerne gerade wie man die Skis/Stiefel der ganzen Familie einrichtet und hab deine Erklärungen super klar gefunden obwohl ich würde die lieber auf Deutsch hören. LG aus die Bergen Neuseelands.
Whenever I get the back screw flush for the forward pressure I take out the boot and than click it back into the bindings. I have marker griffin bindings and I am getting the screw flush but when I click the boot in for the second time the screw is sticking out again. What could be the problem? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you
i would not worry too much. Maybe tighten the screw another time until it is flush but if it is not flush the next time i dont think that it should be a problem. But i am not 100% sure
i do have question about mine bindings they have some number on it and the both sides(tip&toe) which serve for the adjustment of the boot size.it matters where my boot sits but i could not find a chart about it and hope you can help me !
usually the numbers are the DIN-Value of your binding. Just check out my video about that. But i can't be 100% sure because i don't know wich binding you own.
I have a reealy annoying problem with my marker squire the heel piece dont click all the way out it kinda gets stuck half way thru and i just face plants everytime i try to butter even tho i have realy high DIN settings. Please help me!
I need some help. Everytime I go to get my ski boots binded to my skis. By the end of a couple runs, the boots detach easily. Any idea why that happens?
Uhm, WOW! There's sooooo much missing here. Measuring the thickness with a piece of paper is just friggin' nuts too!! That's one of the most critical settings to save a knee because of left and right release. As a ski tech we used a plastic slider that I can definitely say was thicker than a piece of paper because I did a comparison. So, I wouldn't take this limited information to heart unless you enjoy knee injuries.
personal preference i suppose. I respect the fact that you're a ski tech but his whole point with the paper is you dont want it too thick. I'm not trying to argue, i'm just saying it might be personal preference, slightly tighter/slightly looser
0.1mm is the recommended space between the AFD plate and boot for ALL alpine style toe pieces. there is no benefit from having it looser or tighter because your boot is always in contact with your binding AFD plate while you're skiing (your weight pushes the boot down) having it looser gives you wiggle room (insecure feel) and too tight fucks the torque specs on your binding turning your DIN of 8 into an 18 (pinching of the boot creates resistance thus increasing the amount of force required to compress your binding springs) 0.1mm is approx. the thickness of a piece of paper, or just enough to let light through or whatever you do to measure 0.1mm
the sizes you see for bindings are the brake width. the brakes need to be at least as wide as the ski, up to 15mm wider than the ski. so for a 98mm ski, i think a 100mm brake width would be fine. the bindings themselves will be the same size. if the brakes are too narrow they just won't fit around the ski, and if too wide they can get in the way when you ski and can catch in the snow when you turn.
Hey i have a question about that things and if someone can really help me. Im a professional skier, and i just started the snow park( freestyle) since two year and i want to know how i should adjust my bindings correctly-My skies is for freestyle " Salomon Threat 161"- My bindings is " Tyrolia Peak 11, 90mm"-My boots is " Salomon Energyzer 60, 328mm"-I weight 74 kg and my tall is 1,75 cmThanks on advance
If you are riding in the park there are high amounts of forces trough the binding. Especially when you pop a trick. I can't really tell you what DIN numbers you should set because here it highly depends on your riding skills and style. If i where you i would start at a lower base setting and than slowly increase the numbers every run until you think that there is no more false release of the binding. But of as i said in the Video you have nothing for ensurance if you play on your bindings your self.
First of all thank you for answering . And about my skills and style im pro. I started the popping tricks like 360 and grab... And im training my self more and more .. but if you can tell me like an example about you how u would adjust ur binding
The asshat that made this video has no idea what binding you’re even talking about. Do the smart thing, pay your local tech $20 and they’ll get you set.
Found out after visiting local ski shop as written, older and likely inexpensive binding didn't have toe clip height adjustment. Great vid and thx for the reply!
Congratulations !! Nice video but it is incomplete (In my oppinion.). You tell nothing about the numbers from the boots (317 mm for ex.) and nothing about numbers from the front and back part of the bindindings. Also you tell nothing about the sign from the midle of the boots and from the midle af the bindings. What role do they have and how should they fit ? Does it matter or does it not matter for you ?
The number from the boot (317mm) is just the length of the boot in millimeters and is only used to calculated the DIN settings, you dont actually need it to adjust the length of the binding to the boot, as you see in the video he just tightens the screw at the back until it fits correctly. As for the numbers at the front and back of the binding i think you mean DIN settings and he made a video about that aswell. You can just look up "DIN setting calculator" on google and itll give you DIN value then turn the screws until it matches the right DIN number. If you dont know much about ski bindings you should get a professional do it, doing it wrong could cause you to injure yourself. The DIN setting essentially controls with how much force the binding holds your boot into place, if the number is too low your boots might pop out when youre skiing fast or aggressively and youll hurt yourself. If the number is too high and you fall the ski wont come off and you might destroy your knees, so its important to get it right.
The boot sole length 317mm is used to calculate the DIN release setting. The mid-sole mark on the boot and the ski are used to align the boot in the correct position when mounting the binding on the ski. The numbers on the toe and heel piece refer to the DIN release setting. None of which are used to adjust to boot to binding in a flat mount ski /binding ( binding is strewed onto ski) However in a System setup you would use the sole length to set the distance and position of the binding one the ski. The binding used in the video a Marker F 12 Tour does have a sole length scale on the heel piece track as it is adjustable for multiple size boot soles. Be aware of your boot sole length when buying the model as it comes in two sizes, small and large.
Hi! great video, thanks. I tried to do this paper-trick with my Jester bindings. After adjusting it so that the paper just barely can be pulled out, the boot is not tight in the binding. when I lean back the boot pops up in the front-piece, just couple of millimeters but still. And this only happens to one of my skies, which I find weird.. I should also add that the backscrew is flushed. So what I did was to raise the plate until it didnt pop anymore, but then ofcourse the paper is wedged in. Is that bad? any suggestions? I have Nordica Ace of Spades boots, pretty worn out, that could be a factor to the problem.. dunno. Thanks
Try to pull the Ski boot back a bit when it is in the binding. If that doesnt work you should go to a ski shop or risk that your Binding may not work correct 100%
There are many things you can learn enough about by watching you tube videos that you can feel pretty confident to do correctly. Ski binding adjustment is not one of those. Take it to a qualified professional. This guy's advice is dangerous.
These are the things that people understand when they first look at their ski binding... it would be a lot more helpful if there was more said than, "turn the screw til it holds the boot." That doesn't really speak technical confidence to me...
Don't listen to this guy or any other of these youtube videos. They all leave out very important information and can just lead to injury or damage to your equipment. The people who do this at ski shops are professionals and are certified and trained, you need more than just a screwdriver to make sure your bindings release properly.
hamburger buns they're just trying to help us out so if the person who watched the video is convinced why not give it a try ;) Well for me it was very helpful
I am a certified rental technician and what he is doing is very similar to what we do. Yes we have more specific tools and tricks that we use but for a simple binding adjustments what he shows is completely safe. Most people do not want to pay the money to get their bindings set up and want to learn to do it on their own. Also I know from personal experience sometimes the rental technicians and shop technicians input the wrong info for the person and set the ski up wrong. Sometimes it is safer for the skier himself to set it up because he knows his skill level and weight and exact boot sole length.
Lone Wolf knows whats up. I am a big skier and i do all of my own work on my skis. Yes you need to know what you are doing to prevent injury, yes you can eff yourself up if you make a mistake. but for the most part, hes doing things right. I trust myself over ski techs any day. I had a tech set up my race skis wrong. i walked out of my skis and tore my LCL... turns out he didnt have the skis mounted right on the skis and it prevented the forward pressure from being where it should have been. from then on, i do my own work.
and so is the so called technician in the shop, even worse, ski hire shops, I have seen some bad shit come from ski hire shops. I would never let my kids or family member ever hire skis.
Has a certified technician of 5 major brands of ski bindings including marker this is a horrible and incorrect way to set up bindings and is no way properly done
thanks man, youre one of the only vids i found that explains the length adjustments, appreciate it.
Very well explained. No unnecessary talk...stayed on point 👍🏼 Thanks
thank you, from this and the din video i managed to set up my skis correctly and easy!
Thanks, this was really helpful in 2024.
I was struggling to get the length correct on my marker duke bindings, I didn't realise there was a feature that the screw becomes flush so this video was very helpful thanks 🙏🙏
Set forward pressure first with boot in binding. Open and close several times to check FP is correct. Then with boot in binding pull boot back to make sure toe lug is against top of toe piece. Sliding paper is ok only for Marker Binding with multi sole toe. ISO 5355 and ISO 9523. Other Marker bindings with adjustible ISO 5355 toe require .5 mm clearance. Forward pressure adjust is different on Solomon Atomic Look Rossignol Tyrolia bindings. Also different if it is a system and not a flat mount. Also very critical is release setting which should be checked with a torque testing tool to be sure binding spring and boot sole release and correct value. Have that done at a ski shop. It cost about $20 for adj and release check.
As a ski tech, I totally agree with this comment! Especially with Marker bindings! Test, test, and re-test. The forward pressure will shift significantly with an adjustment to the springs.
Why u replying to every video don’t u have something better to do?
Thanks for this video - perfect help for us to set up our daughter's bindings! Very easy to figure out.
Spot on. Thanks for putting the video together. Nothing better than being able to do your own work.
we are set thanks to your video.
Very clear and easy to follow! Thanks bud!
Great video - instructions very helpful good job
Awesome video man! You helped me out big time.
Thank you for doing this!!!!
great video and presentation, thank you!
The only thing I can ad is that most ski bindings I have seen the star shaped fasteners are posi-drive or philips. That screw driver he has could strip the fasteners as it appears to be a Reed and Prince (pointed and will bottom out in the hole) the first two mentioned are blunt so the star can engage better.
Thanks! Your video was extremely helpful!!
I've set up the same bindings exactly in this way, as recommended by Marker, with a pair of alpine ski boots Fischer RC4 at DIN 6 ,I'm 80 Kg and good skier so very light setting. Then I broke my acl simply because the bindings didn't open properly, I tested again at home on the bench and I've found that the boot remained completely blocked in to the bindings requiring an enormous pressure to disengage due to the contact of the the boot sole with the anterior plaque between the clamps of the binding itself, It doesn't happen with AT bindings, I've tried to release the forward pressure of the binding by elongating a little bit but the posterior screw was not in the correct position and the boot was not stable. Soit seems that there is a problem using these bindings with race alpine boots.
This video was excellent. I highly recommend watching it. 😄😄😄🎿😇🎿🎿
Fantastic informative video. Thank you
How do you adjust the boot length on Marker 4 motion bindings. There is a sliding part from side to side
Great, thank you.
Why would you set up the plate height before you adjust the length to fit the boot in the binding? Seems like things are being done out of order.
Helped a lot, thanks!
I was wondering if you could explain to me how to set the ski binding to the weight
thanks , you the only one showing the eight setting
Perfect video!
Thank you for the amazing support man really apreciet it
This is great! Why do shops charge so much for this? You made this so easy and was great to find a video explaining the riser adjustment under the ball of the foot.
probably because a lot of people know like he says the setting is the difference between too loose and a sloppy ride or too tight and messing up a knee if the boot doesn't give way in a fall, but if you're comfortable with taking that liability, then go for it. I'm going to but don't blame people who don't and would rather let the pros do it
@@Eric-xt3os I'm not blaming anyone for anything.
I'm skiing on Volkl RTM 80 with the Marker PT Wide Ride bindings. I just bought a new pair of boots and I can't figure out how to lower the front sliding plate that the boot sits on. It is just a little too high as the paper rips when I have the boot mounted on the binding. I can't find any screw in the front or on top that would allow me to adjust the height of this sliding plate mechanism. Do you have any knowledge about this binding? I had no problem adjusting the length and DIN settings.
Always refer to the tech manual for the binding. Some adjust relatively easily, but others (Look Pivot) have very little adjustment range once they're mounted. Also, if you're looking at this to save $20-$30 at the shop, then go to the shop because your binding may no longer be indemnified. I mean really, what's your knee worth?
I hear what you're saying, but indemnification just means the shop is covered under the manufacturer's insurance/legal umbrella, no? It offers you zero direct protection from injury. It just means the shop (professional) will work on your binding, which MAY offer you better service than you can do at home. If they do a better job than you, then yes, your knee is safer.
This whole "indemnification" issue kinda reminds me of how child's car seats expire in Canada.
@@Keifsanderson I've got some 1960's Henke Pro Triple Lace boots for ya...
@@misterfunnybones Ha! They're boots. I bet they'd still be fine. Anyways, I just remounted, adjusted, and skied on some 20yo Markers bindings. They functioned flawlessly. I don't go crazy with I high DIN settings, and I'm not an aggressive skier, so I'm not worried.
@@Keifsanderson Yes, they pair nicely with my leather-strap spring-cable GEZE bindings. No need for a torque test, because my knee & ankle will test everything when the time comes...
i have problem my rear binding have not screw head ..it is some plastic thing . marker m3 q 10.0 model . how can i adjusting . thank you
Thx man, I really appreciate it
gut erklärt. Danke
can you show me how to switch out a narrower ski brake for a wider brake on the Marker F 10 AT touring binding?
Bruce Gillers
I have a demo bindings and my heel pressure indicator is not adjusting. It feels like the thread of the screw is not engaged. Fixable or buy new bindings. Any advice? Link?
Nicely done!
thanks you helped me a lot l'm just a 9 years old kid!
Thanks!!!!
Awesome video, thank you. If you ever do a tech binding video would be much appreciated.
i am thinking about making one about tech bindings soon! But it probobly will be uploaded on my other channel (ua-cam.com/users/4freeskier) since i switched to english there too! So make sure to subscribe :)
Nice ben chestlers skis
Thanks for the video. It is very helpful! I have a Look spx 10 binding but I cannot find the screw to let the binding move. Could you please help me with this? Thanks
thanks this helped alot
thank you very much :) fantastic video
no worries :)
Thank you :)
thanks a lot for that advice
I have a Marker Warden 13 binding. Apparently the toe adjusts automatically, no need to set height. Is this correct? Thank you
How do you figure out what size bindings you have/ need? I’m wanting to buy a new pair online on Cyber Monday that will fit my existing boots. I haven’t been able to find a size marked on the binding. Please help!
Look at the side of the boot you already have that has clicked into the binding and look for a small number that will say something along the lines of 315mm or something like that. Then when you're searching online you can find other boots of the same sole length. Instead of accommodating for that though, you could just take your skis down to the ski shop and pay for them to remount them to fit your new ski boots.
Great video.
For the AFD setting, I noticed in one example you were pushing down on the boot and others you weren't, which makes a difference in how easily you can pull the paper out. Which is correct, push the boot or leave it loose?
Did u find the correct answer? Im on this point now
You do not push down on the boot when checking with the paper. The only time he pushed down on he boot was to simulate too much pressure and rip the paper. When he was showing you the correct adjustment he was not touching the boot.
What about boot and ski center lines?
Foreward pressure and sole length are really two different things.
I am trying to adjust the front plate on my grandson's marker 4.5 binding.How you adjust this with out an exposed screw? I had not problem adjust the length or the dins.
I have a toe ski binding which is hinged in the center . With my boot in place the toe hinge is slightly opened .
I’m guessing this is okay as long as din keeps it from opening further ?
I am unsure how to adjust my Tyrolia 11attack bindings. Anyone know how to do this?
Lift the lever behind the rear bindings, use a large flat head screwdriver to help pull the lever up
What is the model name for the boot
Dude, U got sub from me!
nouice now i know how to bind my ski
how adjustable are the Look SPX 12 for different size boots? can you go from 27.5 to 30.5 or 31 without redrilling. thank you.
Maximum adjustment without drilling is 15 millimeters
How do I adjust the AFD plate under toe of boot on Marker M900 EPS bindings? The plate is fixed and I can't slide a piece of paper as recommended without tearing.
These are alpine bindings right? you should use them with a alpine sole (almost every ski boot for the slopes has certified alpine soles). They should work fine with that binding.
Hallo wo finde ich deine Videos auf Deutsch. Ich lerne gerade wie man die Skis/Stiefel der ganzen Familie einrichtet und hab deine Erklärungen super klar gefunden obwohl ich würde die lieber auf Deutsch hören. LG aus die Bergen Neuseelands.
well that was easy thank you
Clip of the day Yup! Ppppppppoooooooppppppppp
Whenever I get the back screw flush for the forward pressure I take out the boot and than click it back into the bindings. I have marker griffin bindings and I am getting the screw flush but when I click the boot in for the second time the screw is sticking out again. What could be the problem? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you
i would not worry too much. Maybe tighten the screw another time until it is flush but if it is not flush the next time i dont think that it should be a problem. But i am not 100% sure
green apple tighten it while the boots in the binding
i do have question about mine bindings they have some number on it and the both sides(tip&toe) which serve for the adjustment of the boot size.it matters where my boot sits but i could not find a chart about it and hope you can help me !
usually the numbers are the DIN-Value of your binding. Just check out my video about that.
But i can't be 100% sure because i don't know wich binding you own.
i figured it out they are not DIN-Values but anyways thanks for your answer !
I have a reealy annoying problem with my marker squire the heel piece dont click all the way out it kinda gets stuck half way thru and i just face plants everytime i try to butter even tho i have realy high DIN settings. Please help me!
hm, when you butter there is a lot of pressure on the binding. What DIN setting are you on right now?
9 in the back and 8 in the front
and i only weight 60 kg
hm, i cant tell you if there is a problem with the binding or not, because i dont butter that much (and when i do its in deep snow)...
Okay thanks for trying atleast :)
I need some help. Everytime I go to get my ski boots binded to my skis. By the end of a couple runs, the boots detach easily. Any idea why that happens?
Uhm, WOW!
There's sooooo much missing here. Measuring the thickness with a piece of paper is just friggin' nuts too!! That's one of the most critical settings to save a knee because of left and right release. As a ski tech we used a plastic slider that I can definitely say was thicker than a piece of paper because I did a comparison. So, I wouldn't take this limited information to heart unless you enjoy knee injuries.
personal preference i suppose. I respect the fact that you're a ski tech but his whole point with the paper is you dont want it too thick. I'm not trying to argue, i'm just saying it might be personal preference, slightly tighter/slightly looser
0.1mm is the recommended space between the AFD plate and boot for ALL alpine style toe pieces. there is no benefit from having it looser or tighter because your boot is always in contact with your binding AFD plate while you're skiing (your weight pushes the boot down) having it looser gives you wiggle room (insecure feel) and too tight fucks the torque specs on your binding turning your DIN of 8 into an 18 (pinching of the boot creates resistance thus increasing the amount of force required to compress your binding springs) 0.1mm is approx. the thickness of a piece of paper, or just enough to let light through or whatever you do to measure 0.1mm
In official binding adjustment Vvdeos done by the manufacturer Marker they also use a simple paper strip.
Using a simple A4 paper is around 0.05mm so if you told that thing in half it matches the 0.1mm said earlier, I always use that trick
I have Marker f12 bindings and a piece of paper is what they say to use in their directions from the manufacturer.
Thanx handsome boy:)
Hey just wondering how wide I need my bindings to be. My skis are 98 wide 100?? Any ideas?
the sizes you see for bindings are the brake width. the brakes need to be at least as wide as the ski, up to 15mm wider than the ski. so for a 98mm ski, i think a 100mm brake width would be fine. the bindings themselves will be the same size. if the brakes are too narrow they just won't fit around the ski, and if too wide they can get in the way when you ski and can catch in the snow when you turn.
Hey i have a question about that things and if someone can really help me. Im a professional skier, and i just started the snow park( freestyle) since two year and i want to know how i should adjust my bindings correctly-My skies is for freestyle " Salomon Threat 161"- My bindings is " Tyrolia Peak 11, 90mm"-My boots is " Salomon Energyzer 60, 328mm"-I weight 74 kg and my tall is 1,75 cmThanks on advance
If you are riding in the park there are high amounts of forces trough the binding. Especially when you pop a trick. I can't really tell you what DIN numbers you should set because here it highly depends on your riding skills and style. If i where you i would start at a lower base setting and than slowly increase the numbers every run until you think that there is no more false release of the binding. But of as i said in the Video you have nothing for ensurance if you play on your bindings your self.
First of all thank you for answering . And about my skills and style im pro. I started the popping tricks like 360 and grab... And im training my self more and more .. but if you can tell me like an example about you how u would adjust ur binding
How do you adjust the Forward Pressure on 2017/2018 Marker Wide Ride 12din bindings? I have them on the 2017/2018 Volkl RTM 86 skis.
Have u found an answer to this question dude cuz i have the same problem
The asshat that made this video has no idea what binding you’re even talking about. Do the smart thing, pay your local tech $20 and they’ll get you set.
are pretty much all bindings adjustable or is that just demo bindings that are adjustable
Almost all have some level of adjustment but that is a touring binding.
I have an older pair of Rossignol FD65, and can't find where to adjust the toe cup height.
I'm having the same problem with my Fisher x9s
I just went to a ski tech and apparently not every binding has a toe cup adjustment
Found out after visiting local ski shop as written, older and likely inexpensive binding didn't have toe clip height adjustment. Great vid and thx for the reply!
Are the maker 11.0 TC bindings good?
go to a local small ski shop and let them do it. Support local, also don't buy a frame tour binding.
as well, ski shops will have a machine to test the binding and make sure the values are right so that you're actually ejecting right.
Forgot the most important part. Torque testing heel and toe release. If you care about your safety, leave this to your local ski shop.
So easy to fits ! Cost save ! But , a ski , binding and boots , will cost $2000 ! Save , how much ? If ..... Diy ! From
English
dude he looks like hart denton from riverdale
whats your ski boot's name
Congratulations !! Nice video but it is incomplete (In my oppinion.).
You tell nothing about the numbers from the boots (317 mm for ex.) and nothing about numbers from the front and back part of the bindindings. Also you tell nothing about the sign from the midle of the boots and from the midle af the bindings. What role do they have and how should they fit ?
Does it matter or does it not matter for you ?
The number from the boot (317mm) is just the length of the boot in millimeters and is only used to calculated the DIN settings, you dont actually need it to adjust the length of the binding to the boot, as you see in the video he just tightens the screw at the back until it fits correctly. As for the numbers at the front and back of the binding i think you mean DIN settings and he made a video about that aswell. You can just look up "DIN setting calculator" on google and itll give you DIN value then turn the screws until it matches the right DIN number. If you dont know much about ski bindings you should get a professional do it, doing it wrong could cause you to injure yourself.
The DIN setting essentially controls with how much force the binding holds your boot into place, if the number is too low your boots might pop out when youre skiing fast or aggressively and youll hurt yourself. If the number is too high and you fall the ski wont come off and you might destroy your knees, so its important to get it right.
DIN is not what I asked, you are talking about different things. You did not understand or you did not know what about I am talking.
The boot sole length 317mm is used to calculate the DIN release setting. The mid-sole mark on the boot and the ski are used to align the boot in the correct position when mounting the binding on the ski. The numbers on the toe and heel piece refer to the DIN release setting.
None of which are used to adjust to boot to binding in a flat mount ski /binding ( binding is strewed onto ski) However in a System setup you would use the sole length to set the distance and position of the binding one the ski. The binding used in the video a Marker F 12 Tour does have a sole length scale on the heel piece track as it is adjustable for multiple size boot soles. Be aware of your boot sole length when buying the model as it comes in two sizes, small and large.
What's "anti-clock-wise"??
Great video will really use these techniques. One thing could you please say "Today on hydraulic press channel, and here we go!" Lol JK great video
Hi! great video, thanks.
I tried to do this paper-trick with my Jester bindings. After adjusting it so that the paper just barely can be pulled out, the boot is not tight in the binding. when I lean back the boot pops up in the front-piece, just couple of millimeters but still. And this only happens to one of my skies, which I find weird.. I should also add that the backscrew is flushed.
So what I did was to raise the plate until it didnt pop anymore, but then ofcourse the paper is wedged in. Is that bad? any suggestions?
I have Nordica Ace of Spades boots, pretty worn out, that could be a factor to the problem.. dunno.
Thanks
Try to pull the Ski boot back a bit when it is in the binding. If that doesnt work you should go to a ski shop or risk that your Binding may not work correct 100%
I am a bit late after I broke my leg
If you’re cool with me never having a binding cert again, like my video!
Support your local shop. Use a certified technician dummies.
What the hell is a DIN MAK?
I dont even ski i snowboard🤫
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You can turn off the background music for future videos
There are many things you can learn enough about by watching you tube videos that you can feel pretty confident to do correctly. Ski binding adjustment is not one of those. Take it to a qualified professional. This guy's advice is dangerous.
These are the things that people understand when they first look at their ski binding... it would be a lot more helpful if there was more said than, "turn the screw til it holds the boot." That doesn't really speak technical confidence to me...
Don't listen to this guy or any other of these youtube videos. They all leave out very important information and can just lead to injury or damage to your equipment. The people who do this at ski shops are professionals and are certified and trained, you need more than just a screwdriver to make sure your bindings release properly.
hamburger buns they're just trying to help us out so if the person who watched the video is convinced why not give it a try ;)
Well for me it was very helpful
You wanna risk an injury that could be avoided at a very low cost? Be my guest.
hamburger buns actually a screw driver is exactly what they use at skis shops
I am a certified rental technician and what he is doing is very similar to what we do. Yes we have more specific tools and tricks that we use but for a simple binding adjustments what he shows is completely safe. Most people do not want to pay the money to get their bindings set up and want to learn to do it on their own. Also I know from personal experience sometimes the rental technicians and shop technicians input the wrong info for the person and set the ski up wrong. Sometimes it is safer for the skier himself to set it up because he knows his skill level and weight and exact boot sole length.
Lone Wolf knows whats up. I am a big skier and i do all of my own work on my skis. Yes you need to know what you are doing to prevent injury, yes you can eff yourself up if you make a mistake. but for the most part, hes doing things right. I trust myself over ski techs any day. I had a tech set up my race skis wrong. i walked out of my skis and tore my LCL... turns out he didnt have the skis mounted right on the skis and it prevented the forward pressure from being where it should have been. from then on, i do my own work.
Setting bindings yourself is the riskiest thing you could do.
and so is the so called technician in the shop, even worse, ski hire shops, I have seen some bad shit come from ski hire shops. I would never let my kids or family member ever hire skis.
Has a certified technician of 5 major brands of ski bindings including marker this is a horrible and incorrect way to set up bindings and is no way properly done
This guy is going to cost someone a knee!! Don't adjust your own boot to binding, forward pressure, or DIN! EVER!! You're gonna have a bad time
Yeah, I only adjust if I have a Alpine Ski Race! And thats only if I have to!